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ROD BEARING CAP TORQUE
1995 Chevrolet Truck Astro Van 2WD 4.3L CPI 6cyl
The Rod Bearing Cap Torque
Step 1: Torque to 20 Ft/Lbs Step 2: Turn an additional 60 degrees
You should be able to replace bearings without removing the engine, at the very least maybe you will have to take out a motor mount bolt or 2 and raise the engine a little with a jack to remove the oil pan but maybe not.
You are going to need some plastigauge
Probably an inch lb torque wrench.
You are going to need the connecting rod bearings and maybe main crankshaft bearings, an oil pan gasket and some sealer.
You can register at for free and have access to repair manuals.
[pic]Price:
$54.99
|Part |61020A |
|Number: | |
|Weight: |0.706 lbs |
|Applicati|.000" standard size |
|on: |rod bearing |
Sealed Power / Main Bearing - Engine
Part Number:
5085MA
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Price:
$48.99
Application:
.000 standard size main bearing
Notes:
A-Series aluminum bearings.
Felpro / Oil Pan Gasket
Part Number:
OS34502R
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Price:
$32.99
Notes:
PermaDry molded rubber gasket included;
If you are careful maybe you can reuse the gasket and save $32.99 Use a small hammer and putty knife to cut the old gasket away from the engine block. It should be glued to the pan and not the block.
Gasket Sealant
[pic][pic][pic][pic][pic][pic][pic][pic][pic][pic][pic][pic]Permatex/3 oz. Tube Form-A-Gasket No. 1 Sealant
Part Number:
80008
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Remove the Oil Pan.
GM Astro/Safari 1985-1996 Repair Guide
Oil Pan
• REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
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REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
See Figures 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6 and 7
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Fig. Fig. 1: Exploded view of a typical oil pan assembly-early-model 4.3L engine shown
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Fig. Fig. 2: RTV sealant application for the 2.5L engine oil pan
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Fig. Fig. 3: On most vehicles covered by this guide you will have to unbolt the exhaust pipe for clearance
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Fig. Fig. 4: Loosen and remove the oil pan retaining bolts (a variety of ratchet extensions will be helpful)
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Fig. Fig. 5: If equipped, remove the oil pan reinforcements ...
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Fig. Fig. 6: ... then lower the pan from the engine
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Fig. Fig. 7: CAREFULLY remove the old gasket (on 4.3L engines it can be reused if it is not damaged)
1985-90 Models
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable for safety.
2. Raise and support the front of the vehicle safely using jackstands.
3. Position a catch pan under the crankcase and drain the oil from the engine.
CAUTION
The EPA warns that prolonged contact with used engine oil may cause a number of skin disorders, including cancer! You should make every effort to minimize your exposure to used engine oil. Protective gloves should be worn when changing the oil. Wash your hands and any other exposed skin areas as soon as possible after exposure to used engine oil. Soap and water, or waterless hand cleaner should be used.
4. Disconnect the strut rods at the flywheel/torque converter cover, then remove the cover from the bellhousing.
5. Disengage the electrical connectors from the starter, then remove the starter-to-engine bolts, the brace and the starter from the vehicle.
6. Disconnect the exhaust pipe(s) from the exhaust manifold(s) and, if necessary, at the exhaust pipe-to-catalytic converter hanger(s).
7. If necessary, remove the engine mount through-bolts, then using an engine lifting device, raise the engine (as needed) in order to make room for the oil pan removal.
WARNING
If it is necessary to raise the engine, do so slowly, continually checking for possible interference with the firewall. DO NOT allow upper engine components to become damaged.
8. Remove the oil pan-to-engine bolts and nuts (as applicable), then remove the oil pan from the engine.
9. Using a plastic scraper, clean the gasket mounting surfaces. Using solvent, clean the excess oil from the mounting surfaces.
To install:
10. On the 2.5L engine, apply a 1 / 6 in. (4.2mm) bead of RTV sealant to the oil pan flange (keep the bead inside the bolt holes), the rear main bearing, the timing gear cover and the engine block sealing surface. On the 4.3L engine, apply a small amount of RTV sealant to the front and rear corners of the oil pan; too much sealant may prevent sealing of the gasket.
The 4.3L engine uses a one piece oil pan gasket.
11. Use a new gasket (4.3L), RTV sealant and install the oil pan.
12. Tighten the oil pan-to-engine bolts to 100 inch lbs. (11 Nm) and the oil pan-to-engine nuts to 14 ft. lbs. (20 Nm) for the 4.3L.
13. If raised, lower the engine into position and install the mount through-bolts.
14. Reposition and secure the pipe(s) to the exhaust manifold(s).
15. Install the starter motor assembly.
16. Install the flywheel/torque converter cover, then secure the strut rods.
17. Remove the jackstands and carefully lower the vehicle.
18. Immediately refill the crankcase with fresh oil. Don't risk someone accidentally trying to start a dry motor.
19. Connect the negative battery cable, then start the engine, establish normal operating temperatures and check for leaks.
1991-95 Models
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable for safety.
2. Raise and support the front of the vehicle safely using jackstands.
3. Position a catch pan under the crankcase and drain the oil from the engine.
CAUTION
The EPA warns that prolonged contact with used engine oil may cause a number of skin disorders, including cancer! You should make every effort to minimize your exposure to used engine oil. Protective gloves should be worn when changing the oil. Wash your hands and any other exposed skin areas as soon as possible after exposure to used engine oil. Soap and water, or waterless hand cleaner should be used.
4. Disconnect the exhaust pipe from the manifolds.
5. Remove the torque converter cover from the bellhousing.
6. Remove the starter assembly from the vehicle.
7. Remove the oil pan-to-engine bolts, nuts and reinforcements, then carefully lower the oil pan from the engine.
Remember that no matter how well you drained the crankcase, the oil pan will still be holding a decent amount of slimy residue.
8. Carefully remove the rubber composite gasket from the mating surface. Take care because if the gasket is free of damage it can be reused.
9. Clean the gasket mounting surfaces of sealant, dirt or other residue. Using solvent, clean the excess oil from the mounting surfaces.
To install:
10. Inspect the oil pan gasket for damage and replace, if necessary. Position the gasket on the oil pan.
11. Apply sealant such as GM 12346141, or equivalent, to the front cover-to-block joint and to the rear crankshaft seal-to-block joint. Continue the sealant about 1 in. (25mm) in both directions from the 4 corners.
12. Carefully raise the oil pan into position with the reinforcements and thread the retainers.
13. Tighten the oil pan-to-engine bolts to 100 inch lbs. (11 Nm) and the oil pan-to-engine nuts to 17 ft. lbs. (23 Nm).
14. Install the starter motor assembly.
15. Install the torque converter cover.
16. Reposition and secure the pipe to the exhaust manifolds.
17. Remove the jackstands and carefully lower the vehicle.
18. Immediately refill the crankcase with fresh oil. Don't risk someone accidentally trying to start a dry motor.
19. Connect the negative battery cable, then start the engine, establish normal operating temperatures and check for leaks.
Connecting Rods
ROD BEARING REPLACEMENT
See Figures 23, 24, 25 and 26
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Fig. Fig. 23: To check bearingclearance, apply a strip of gauging material to the bearing shell, then install and tighten the bearing cap ...
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Fig. Fig. 24: ... after tightening to specification, remove the bearing cap and compare the thickness of the material to the scale provided
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Fig. Fig. 25: You can apply the gauging material to bearing journal (shown) or to the bearing shell
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Fig. Fig. 26: Even if it was applied to the journal, it may wind up on the cap shell after it is tightened
Replacement bearings are available in standard size and undersize (for reground crankshafts). Connecting rod-to-crankshaft bearing clearance is checked using Plastigage® or an equivalent gauging material, at either the top or the bottom of each crank journal. The Plastigage® has a range of 0.001-0.003 in. (0.0254-0.0762mm).
1. Remove the rod cap with the bearing shell. Completely clean the bearing shell and the crank journal, blow any oil from the oil hole in the crankshaft; place the Plastigage® lengthwise along the bottom center of the lower bearing shell, then install the cap with the shell and torque the bolt or nuts to specification. DO NOT turn the crankshaft with the Plastigage® on the bearing.
2. Remove the bearing cap with the shell. The flattened Plastigage® will be found sticking to either the bearing shell or the crank journal. DO NOT remove it yet.
3. Use the scale printed on the Plastigage® package to measure the flattened material at its widest point. The number within the scale which most closely corresponds to the width of the Plastigage® indicates the bearing clearance in thousandths of an inch.
4. Check the specifications chart in this section for the desired clearance. It is advisable to install a new bearing if the clearance exceeds 0.003 in. (0.0762mm); however, if the bearing is in good condition and is not being checked because of bearing noise, bearing replacement is not necessary.
5. If you are installing new bearings, try a standard size, then each undersize in order until one is found that is within the specified limits when checked for clearance with Plastigage®; each undersize shell has its size stamped on it.
6. When the proper size shell is found, clean off the Plastigage®, oil the bearing thoroughly, reinstall the cap with its shell and tighten the rod bolt nuts to specification.
With the proper bearing selected and the nuts torqued, it should be possible to move the connecting rod back and forth freely on the crank journal as allowed by the specified connecting rod end clearance. If the rod cannot be moved, either the rod bearing is too far undersize or the rod is misaligned.
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Fig. Fig. 30: After installation, check the connecting rod side clearance by CAREFULLY spreading the rods and inserting a feeler gauge
1. Make sure that the connecting rod big-end bearings (including the end cap) are of the correct size and properly installed.
2. Fit rubber hoses over the connecting rod bolts to protect the crankshaft journals, as in the Piston Removal procedure. Lubricate the connecting rod bearings with clean engine oil.
3. Using a suitable ring compressor positioned over the piston, compress the rings around the piston head. Insert the piston assembly into the cylinder, so that the notch (on top of the piston) faces the front of the engine.
4. From beneath the engine, coat each crank journal with clean oil. Using a hammer handle, gently drive the connecting rod/piston assembly into the cylinder bore. Align the connecting rod (with bearing shell) onto the crankshaft journal.
5. Remove the rubber hoses from the studs. Install the bearing cap (with bearing shell) onto the connecting rod and the cap nuts. Tighten the connecting rod cap nuts to specification.
2.5L engine (1985-88): 32 ft. lbs. (43 Nm)
2.5L engine (1989-90): 30 ft. lbs. (40 Nm)
4.3L engine (1985-90): 45 ft. lbs. (61 Nm)
4.3L engine (1991-92): 20 ft. lbs. (27 Nm) + a 60 ° turn
4.3L engine (1993-96): 20 ft. lbs. (27 Nm) + a 70 ° turn
When more than one connecting rod/piston assembly are being installed, the connecting rod cap nuts should only be tightened enough to keep each rod in position until all have been installed. This will ease the installation of the remaining piston assemblies.
6. Check the clearance between the sides of the connecting rods and the crankshaft using a feeler gauge. Spread the rods slightly with a small prybar to insert the feeler gauge. If the clearance is below the minimum tolerance, the rod may be machined to provide adequate clearance. If the clearance is excessive, substitute an unworn rod and recheck. If clearance is still outside specifications, the crankshaft must be welded and reground or replaced.
7. Install the oil pump assembly and the oil pan.
Do you ship to APO/FPO/DPO addresses?
Yes, we do ship to APO, FPO and DPO addresses via the USPS.
You might want to think about replacing the rear main oil seal at this time since you are right there.
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