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Tips to replace the dreaded coolant flange. (Audi B7 A4 2.0T quattro).-when you find an XZN i.e. triple-square bolt replace it with a stainless steel Allen head or Hex head bolt. Throw the triple square bolts you removed out into the woods. Ha-ha. Not really, but I personally replace triple-squares on common parts like brackets etc. when I find them.-you must remove the vacuum pump. Requires a short shank T30 torx bit on a mini gear wrench.-have on hand a paint can lid opener tool. Works great to toggle the catch on VAG electrical connectors. Hard on the fingertips otherwise.-disconnect the coil packs (all four) and push the wiring harness down and toward the fender to gain access to the vacuum pump and the attached ground leads (2).-disconnect the ground leads (2) from that weird bracket that attaches to the vacuum pump. When you later go to reattach the ground leads to the bracket, don’t. Throw the bracket way out into the woods. Ha-ha. Then fabricate an 8-inch extension cable to allow you to bolt the ground leads to the vacuum pump at the top of the vacuum pump. Curse that useless bracket one last time for good measure.-you can reseal the vacuum pump since you have it out anyway. O-ring kits available on line.-you can remove the HPFP and rear cam chain cover if you like. You probably should, it allows much better access. Be sure to have a new cover gasket and HPFP O-ring before you do.-find a fork-shaped bicycle spoke wrench. It’s the only tool that can access that idiotic coolant drain valve that Audi put on the radiator. Drain the coolant or not. You decide. No matter what it is still going to run out the coolant flange port when you pull the flange. Have another catch pan handy.-detach the hard-pipe coolant line above the intake manifold from its mounts. Chuck that triple square.-you must have a cable-type hose clamp pliers! Use to release hose clamps. Virtually impossible to do this job without this tool!-those spring-eared hose clamps you struggled to get loose, yes throw those buggers into the woods too. Replace with quality stainless steel good-old radiator clamps. You’ll see why.-hose pick the short coolant hose from the hard pipe. A little light oil or silicone spray worked in there helps. Leave it attached to the coolant flange then remove together with the flange. It can be done, just go at it patiently. Even if you get the short coolant hose off in one piece replace it with a new one. Some guys just cut it off. -use two long flat screwdrivers at one time to dislodge the lower heater hose from coolant flange (tap-tap, push, tap-tap, push) after using one of those screw drivers to slide the metal retaining clip that is part of the plastic connector. -replace the heater hose connector O-ring with a new one. Available on line.-may as well replace the coolant sensor too. Comes with an O-ring.-the two mounting bolts for the coolant flange itself are T30 torx. You know what to do when you finally get them out. Toss ‘em. Then replace those little bastards with 80mm long stainless steel Allen head bolts. Use nylock nuts to form a second head. Next time they will be easy to reach and undo. Plus they will be easier to get threaded in this time. 3352808255002969895762000-be sure to inspect and clean the coolant flange port on the block. It will likely contain pieces of the old coolant flange and other debris.-have 1 or 2 extra O-rings for the coolant flange. You will probably need them. You will likely shear at least one O-ring when you push the new coolant flange into its port. Lube the O-ring! When right it sort of clunks into place squarely. (Don’t use oil as a lube, it can swell and destroy coolant O-rings, liquid soap is a good alternative.)-a good mechanic will reserve about a day for this job. The rest of us will need at least two.Ground cable extension. ................
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