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ON THE ROAD
YOUR COMPLETE DESTINATION GUIDE In-depth reviews, detailed listings and insider tips
TOP EXPERIENCES MAP
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?
North Bali p224
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Lonely Planet guidebooks countries covered mentforminorinjuries
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shipped, and still counting by a Lonely Planet dinBaliandtoalesser
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guide ed to leave the islands.
vellers tend to worry contracting infecdiseases when in the s, but infections are a ause of serious illness th in travellers. Preg medical conditions
clearly labelled containers. A signed and dated letter from your physician describing your medical conditions and medications (including generic names) is also a good idea. If you are carrying syringes or needles, be sure to have a physician's letter documenting their medical necessity. If you have a heart condition ensure you bring a copy of your electrocardiogram taken j st prior to tra elling
be able to give spe ommendations for your trip.
Most vaccines d produce immunity least two weeks af given. Ask your do an International Ce of Vaccination (oth known as the yello let), which will list a cinations you've re
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PAUL KENNEDY
25 Top Experiences....... 4 Welcome to Bali & Lombok ................ 17 Need to Know ................. 18 What's New ..................... 20 If You Like... ..................... 21 Month by Month ............. 26 Itineraries........................ 28 Bali & Lombok Outdoors ........................ 33 Travel with Children ...... 43 Regions at a Glance ....... 47
? The popular Barong and Rangda dance (p339) is a battle between
good and evil
26 month
Top Events Nyepi, March or April
by month
Galungan & Kuningan, varies
Ubud Writers & Readers Festival, October
ping Bali Arts Festival, June?July
e people Perang Topat, November
or December
Bali
is
a
on for shopping;
February
The rainy season pours on and the islands take a breather after the Christmas and New Year's high season.
z Nyale Festival The ritual harvesting of wormlike sea ?sh (nyale) takes place on Seger beach near Lombok's Kuta. The evening begins with poetry readings, continues with gamelan performances and carries on until the dawn when the worms start appearing. Usually February but also in March. See p282 for more.
March
The rainy season is ending and there is a lull in the crowds, as this is low season for tourism.
z Nyepi (Day of Silence) Bali's major Hindu festival, Nyepi celebrates the end of the old year and the start of the next. It's marked by
the island alone for another year. The night before sees community celebrations with ogoh-ogoh, huge papier-m?ch? monsters that go up in ?ames. See p325 for more, including dates for coming years. Held in March or early April.
April
The islands dry out after the rainy season, but things remain quiet on the visitor front.
z Bali Spirit Festival A fast-growing yoga, dance and music festival ( ) from the people behind the Yoga Barn (p143). There are over 100 workshops and concerts, plus a market and more. It's usually held in early April but may begin in late March.
1 Malean Sampi Bualo race over waterlogged earth in Narmada, near Mataram on Lombok. Jockeys tear down the track, clinging onto a couple of stampeding yoked
s it becomes their MaYyou'll ?nd a plethops and stalls across A great month for
visiting. It's not high season but the annual rains have stopped (although you'll still get downpours at any time). Trails are drying out for hiking yet the rivers are still high for rafting.
z Bali Art Festival of Buleleng Every year Singaraja hosts this large arts festival in north Bali. During one week, dancers and musicians from some of the region's most renowned village troupes, such as those of Jagaraga, perform.
June
The airport is getting busier, but much of what makes May a good month also applies in June.
z Bali Arts Festival Denpasar's arts festival (baliartsfestival. com) is the premier event
Cooking Courses
Preparing your own Balinese banquet is a fantastic, hands-on way to get acquainted with the ingre
25
TOP
EXPERIENCES
Welcome to
Bali & Lombok
A Festival of Festivals
1 There you are sipping a coee at a cafe in, say, Seminyak or Ubud, when there's a crash of
Thgeammelearneanmd terantcioscnreeocfhe`Bs taolaih' aeltvaoska emsob of elegantly dressed people comes ?ying by
bpterhoacoreinusgsgipohynrtadsmisoaidpfspaoefafrprinuagitr,atasassdsuiedsldleeed.nplIyatar'asssiotmlaspoapnredearaefdu,rwreitdh,
masked Barong or two. It's a temple no more than the ?eeting sparkle of
gold-
atnhda-wnhitae spilklaancdeh:ibiits'csusapemtaolsoindit,sawnake. Dozens occur daily across Bali.
aspiration, a tropical state of
mind.
A Place Like No Other 2 5 Bali is like no other destination in the world. Its rich culture plays out at all levels of life,
from the exquisite ?ower-petal oerings placed everywhere to the processions of joyfully garbed locals, shutting down major roads as they march to one of the myriad temple ceremonies, to the otherworldly traditional music and dance performed island-wide.
Bali's Essence Yes, Bali has beaches, sur?ng, diving, and resorts great and small, but it's the essence of Bali ? and the Balinese ? that makes it so much more than just a fun-in-the-sun retreat. It is possible to take the clich? of the smiling Balinese too far, but in reality, the inhabitants of this small island are indeed a generous, genuinely warm people. There's also a fun, sly sense of humour behind the smiles; upon seeing a bald tourist, many locals exclaim `bung ujan' (today's rain is cancelled) ? it's their way of saying that the hairless head is like a clear sky.
One Island, Many Destinations On Bali you can lose yourself in the chaos of Kuta or the sybaritic pleasures of Seminyak, surf wild beaches in the south or just hang out on Nusa Lembongan. You can go family friendly in Sanur or savour a lavish getaway on the Bukit Peninsula. Ubud is the heart of Bali, a place where the spirit and culture of the island are most accessible. It shares the island's most beautiful rice ?elds and ancient monuments with east Bali. The middle of Bali is dominated by the dramatic volcanoes of the central mountains and hillside temples such as Pura Luhur Batukau (one of the island's 20,000). North and west Bali are thinly populated but have diving and sur?ng that make any journey worthwhile.
Lombok & the Gilis, Too Almost as big as Bali, Lombok is the undiscovered place next door. From its volcanic centre to untrodden idyllic beaches like Mawun, it rewards travellers who want to explore. Many are drawn to mighty Gunung Rinjani, Indonesia's second-highest volcano. Rivers and waterfalls gush down its ?ssured slopes, while its summit ? complete with hot springs and a dazzling crater lake ? is the ultimate trekker prize. The fabled Gili Islands ? three exquisite droplets of white sand sprinkled with coconut palms and surrounded by coral reefs teeming with marine life ? add a dose of south Bali buzz, and, on Gili Trawangan, legendary nightlife.
PAGE
307
UNDERSTAND GET MORE FROM YOUR TRIP BALI & LOMBOK Learn about the big picture, so you
can make sense of what you see
Bali & Lombok Today ..... 308 History............................. 310 The Local Way of Life ..... 320 Food & Drink ................... 330 The Arts........................... 337 Architecture.................... 348 Environment ................... 358
t e e was a
ed ate betwee Java
that the courtly Javanese language known
on the royalty of Bali, and the rock-cut
Kawi, near Tampaksiring, provide a clear
ali and 11th-century Java.
Bali remained semi-independent until Ker-
e Singasari dynasty in Java two centuries
d Bali in 1284, but the period of his greatest
ears, until he was murdered and his king-
e great Majapahit dynasty was founded by
With Java in turmoil, Bali regained its au-
to the present, with excellent sections on the 2002 bombings and ongoing environmental woes caused by tourism and development.
1019
A future king, angga, is born in ali. He lives in the s of Java until he ns political power nd becomes king f the two islands, ng both cultures.
12th century
An amazing, incredible and stupendous series of 10 7m-high statues are carved from stone
clis at Gunung Kawi north of Ubud. About
900 years later, Unesco notices...
? Shrines at Gunung Kawi
PAUL KENNEDY
if Bali were 100 people
97 would be Indonesian 3 would be other
> Bali & Lombok
#\ Bajulmati
Java
Pulau Tabuan
#\ Betekan
Pulau Menjangan Amazes divers and snorkellers (p254)
BALI
LOMBOK
Prapat Agung
Selogiri #\
Peninsula
Pulau Menjangan
Bali & Lombok
#\ Meneng
#\ Ketapang Gilimanuk#\
Cekik #\ #\ Banyuwangi
G(PAGR3urg1naKu0(pu6nRmean9Llg#\ta)gL8atMabmaluaekG)hnlaaBagnyn#\aa(n4By3GuaR0(nwS1my#\0aeu)d0nwag4Renlmadg(Gna)1(ng31Mg30RR8e58rm#\PbmeP)uPm)u#?Gku(lu1arRMa3tke(4i#?G1er42asMenm2RNh4u)aemssTiBi)aoamnraaalBtnBAaliGLCPIRealtuakSsaEn#\bAawang
Lovina
#\
Seririt #\
#\ Pengastulen
Rangdu \#
Mayong
#\
Munduk
#\
(1412m)
Selat Bali
Pupuan
#\
Tanjung Sembulungan
Negara
#\
Mendoyo
#\
Pura
Gede
?#
Perancak
#\
Perancak
#?
Pura Rambut
Siwi
Medewi
#\
Gili Trawangan Clubs for sandy feet (p298)
Balian Beach Funky surfers hangout (p246)
Lombok
e#
0 0
20 km 10 miles
Pujungan #\
Lalang-
Linggah
#\
#\
Antosari
#\ PLlBeoSSRnmeAglEabkLotAuTknIrgawGSaielnniggaBgniagRni #\gMsGaeilnl#\GAi#\oiiR PlrGie(m#\8ST6eaa\#n5bnamGijrnuo)iAgnsnkgTdGaaarumnAngakuSnaSnerenBgN#\gaDaaaRryarsGuiaanni(on#\3aRAjanu#\7#\Anina2nnali6jyk#?aaRmnr#\S)i Swa(eG#\2yl\#Oaa2SLNnba3e#\RagBwem0nllamabOgnnai#\)bgtleuulnn#\\#gLLSPLLoauaaambgbn#\GwuiudbaihSahlaonGainnuakninggllait
Seminyak The capital of glitz (p73)
Ampenan #\
Cakranegara
#\ \#
Mataram
Mantang #\
Kediri #\
Kotaraja
#\
#\ Kopang
#\
Anjani Pringgabaya
\# #\
Masabagik
Selat Alas
Bangko Gili Bangko Gede Lembar
#\ Gerung
#\
#\
#\ Praya
Timor
Sakra #\
#\ Labuhan
Haji
Pelangan #\
Sekotong #\
Gunung #\ Mareje
Mujur
#\
#\ Tanjung
Indian Ocean
Kuta Beach Twelve kilometres of ssaannddaannddssuurrff(p(p01030))
Montongsapah #\ Selong
Blongas #\ \#
#\Blanag
Pengantap #\ #\ Kuta
Mawun
Luar
Gunung Rinjani
#\ Ekas
A brooding, magnificent
#\ Tanjung #\ Kaliantan Ringgit
presence (p273)
S U B A W A
INDIAN OCEAN
Mawun Beach A pristine cove (p283)
Jatiluwih Rice Fields Ribbons of green curve around hillsides (p221)
Top Experiences >
e#
0 0
20 km 10 miles
Ubud
Bali's cultural heart (p133)
ELEVATION
Sangsit Kubutambahan
#?#\
#\
Pura Beji
#?
#\
Pura
Yeh
Sanih #\Pacung
#]
(Sangsit) Maduw
Singaraja
Karang
#\
Sukasade
#\ Sawan
Tejakula
#\
Sambirenteng
#\
1000m 700m 500m 300m 200m
G Penulisan
100m
(1745m) R
#\Tembok
0
Gitgit
\#
G Catur
Penulisan
(2096m) Catur
#\ G Batur
R
#\
(1717m) \#Songan
Pura Ulun Kintamani #\
R \# Toya
G Lesong (1860m)
#? (DCaannudBikruantaunng)
Batur #\
Bungkah
R Candikuning
#\
G PohonR #\ (2063m) Bedugul
#\ Pelaga
Penelokan #\
R G Abang (2152m)
RG(2B2a7t6umka)u
#\ Pacung
#\Tianyar
G Agung (3142m)
R
#\ Kubu
#\ Tulamben
Culik \#
Amed
#\
Jatiluwih
?# #\
Pura #\Wongayagede Luhur Batukau
#\ Penebel
#\ PeP\#tuaPjnuagnyagn#\KgaaynTu#\aaKmnBabapyunauagkb#\sliihir#\#?#\iingPPauR(mrBeanapKndaegat#\#\Bahlnien)egsnak#\BiehP\##?s\#uMarIkasuie#?hnhcaPnu(ArGaguSunnaugmnG)gbTaunirgtaga#\
#\ Aas
G Seraya (1175m) R
#] Amlapura #\ Ujung
Marga #\
Sangeh
Bukit #\
#\ Sidemen
Tenganan #\
Selat
#\
Pejeng Jambul
#\ Candidasa
Lombok
Tabanan #]
#\
Mengwi
Ubud #\ Mas
#\
#\#?PuPsuerraing#]
Sidan
#\
Gianyar
Kediri #\ Sempidi
Jagat
Batuan (Pejeng)
#\
Celuk #\
#\ Sukawati
#\
Lebih
Semarapura (Klungkung)
#\
#\
Kusamba
#? #\ Padangbai
Pura Goa Lawah
Batubulan Stone carvers creating
art from rocks (p168)
#\
Kerobokan#\ Seminyak #\
Batubulan #\ Denpasar
#^
#\
#\ Ketewel Sanur Selat
Badung
Nusa Lembongan
Pura Dalem Penetaran
Tasty
Jungutbatu Lembongan #\
#\
Toyapakeh Ped
#\ #?
\# Sampalan
Denpasar Balinese cafes
(p118)
Legian #\ Kuta #\
Nusa Ceningan
#\ Karangsari
Benoa Harbour
\#
#\
Benoa
R (529m)
#\ Semaya
Jimbaran#\
Pura Luhur
Ulu Watu
?#
#\ Pecatu
Tanjung Benoa
#\ Nusa Dua
Kuta All-night clubbing (p68)
Nusa Penida
I N D I A N
Bukit Peninsula
Jimbaran
O C E A N
Grilled fresh seafood (p93)
Pura Luhur Ulu Watu Monkeys and temples (p98)
Balangan Beach A little plume of white
sand (p95)
Nusa Penida Where divers feel
small (p129)
Look out for these icons:
o S F Our author's recommendation
A green or sustainable option
No payment required
KUTA & SEMINYAK . .54
Kuta & Legian . . . . . . . . . . . .56 Seminyak . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .73 Kerobokan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 83 North of Kerobokan . . . . . . .87
SOUTH BALI & THE ISLANDS . . . . . . . . . . .90
BUKIT PENINSULA . . . . . . . 92 Jimbaran . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .92 Around Jimbaran . . . . . . . . .95 Central Bukit. . . . . . . . . . . . .95 Balangan Beach . . . . . . . . . .95 Pecatu Indah . . . . . . . . . . . . 96 Bingin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 96 Ulu Watu & Around . . . . . . .97 Ungasan & Around . . . . . . . 99 Nusa Dua . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 100 Tanjung Benoa . . . . . . . . . .103
SANUR . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 106
AROUND SANUR . . . . . . . . 114 Pulau Serangan . . . . . . . . . 114 Benoa Harbour . . . . . . . . . . 114
DENPASAR . . . . . . . . . . . . . 115
NUSA LEMBONGAN & ISLANDS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 123 Nusa Lembongan . . . . . . . .123 Nusa Ceningan . . . . . . . . . .128 Nusa Penida . . . . . . . . . . . .129
UBUD & AROUND . . . 132
UBUD . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 133
AROUND UBUD . . . . . . . . . 164 Bedulu . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .164 Pejeng . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .165
Tampaksiring. . . . . . . . . . . .166 Tegallalang . . . . . . . . . . . . . 167 North of Ubud. . . . . . . . . . . 167 South of Ubud . . . . . . . . . .168
EAST BALI . . . . . . . . . 172
Coast Road to Kusamba . . 174 Gianyar. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 174 Sidan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 176 Bangli . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 176 Semarapura (Klungkung) . . . . . . . . . . . . 177 Around Semarapura . . . . . 179 Sidemen Road . . . . . . . . . .180 Pura Besakih. . . . . . . . . . . . 181 Gunung Agung . . . . . . . . . .182 Rendang to Amlapura . . . .184 Kusamba to Padangbai. . .184 Padangbai . . . . . . . . . . . . . .185 Padangbai to Candidasa. .189 Candidasa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 191 Candidasa to Amlapura . .194 Amlapura . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .195 Around Amlapura . . . . . . . .196 Tirta Gangga . . . . . . . . . . . .196 Around Tirta Gangga . . . . .198 Amed & the Far East Coast . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .198 Kubu Region . . . . . . . . . . . 203 Tulamben . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 204 Tulamben to Yeh Sanih . . 205
CENTRAL MOUNTAINS . . . . . . .207
GUNUNG BATUR AREA . .208 Trekking Gunung Batur . . 209
Villages Around Gunung Batur Crater . . . . . . . . . . . .212 Villages Around Danau Batur . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .213
DANAU BRATAN AREA . . . 214 Bedugul . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .215 Candikuning . . . . . . . . . . . .216 Pancasari. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 217 Danau Buyan & Danau Tamblingan . . . . . . . . . . . . . 217 Munduk & Around . . . . . . .219
GUNUNG BATUKAU AREA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .220
THE ANTOSARI ROAD . . . 222
NORTH BALI . . . . . . .224
Yeh Sanih . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 226 Singaraja . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 226 Around Singaraja . . . . . . . 229 Lovina . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 230 West of Lovina . . . . . . . . . 236 Pemuteran. . . . . . . . . . . . . 238
WEST BALI. . . . . . . . . 241
Pura Tanah Lot . . . . . . . . . 243 Kapal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 243 Pura Taman Ayun . . . . . . . 243 Belayu . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 244 Marga . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 244 Sangeh . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 244 Tabanan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 244 South of Tabanan . . . . . . . 245 North of Tabanan . . . . . . . 246 Antosari & Bajera . . . . . . . 246 Balian Beach . . . . . . . . . . . 246 Jembrana Coast . . . . . . . . .247
See the Index for a full list of destinations covered in this book.
On the Road
Negara . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 248 Around Negara . . . . . . . . . 249 Belimbingsari & Palasari . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 250 Cekik. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 250 Gilimanuk . . . . . . . . . . . . . 250 Taman Nasional Bali Barat. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .251 Labuhan Lalang . . . . . . . . 253
South of Labuhan Lombok . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 284
GILI ISLANDS . . . . . .286
Gili Trawangan. . . . . . . . . . 288 Gili Meno . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 299 Gili Air. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 302
LOMBOK . . . . . . . . . .256
WEST LOMBOK . . . . . . . . . 258 Mataram . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 258 Around Mataram . . . . . . . 262 Lembar. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 263 Southwestern Peninsula . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 263 Senggigi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 264
NORTH & CENTRAL LOMBOK . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 270 Bangsal to Bayan . . . . . . . 270 Sembalun Valley . . . . . . . . .273 Sapit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .273 Gunung Rinjani . . . . . . . . . .273 Tetebatu. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .277 South of Tetebatu . . . . . . .278
SOUTH LOMBOK . . . . . . . . 278 Praya . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 279 Around Praya . . . . . . . . . . 279 Kuta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 279 East of Kuta. . . . . . . . . . . . 282 West of Kuta . . . . . . . . . . . 283
EAST LOMBOK . . . . . . . . . . 283 Labuhan Lombok . . . . . . . 283 North of Labuhan Lombok . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 284
28 Itineraries
Whether you've got three days or 30, these itineraries provide a starting point for the trip of a lifetime. Want more inspiration? Head online to lonelyplanet. com/thorntree to chat with other travellers.
JAVA
BALI SEA
Pulau Menjangan #? #?Pemuteran
? ?
Selat Bali
? ?
?
? Munduk PBuraatJuLakutahiluu#?urw#?ih#?#?#?CGauK#?nnaduwUiknib?ugundingBAP#?LaI dangbai
Gili Islands
#?
#f
Kerobokan #? Seminyak #? #?Kuta
NUSA PENIDA
Selmat Lombok
INDIAN OCEAN
LOMBOK
Selmat Alas
SUMBAWA
Two Weeks
Bali & the Gilis
Start your trip in Seminyak, which has the best places to go out for a meal, a drink or even a new frock. Allow at least three days to experience the refined charms of Kerobokan and the wild nights of Kuta. Once you're sated, head west, driving through the rice terraces of Jatiluwih and on to Pura Luhur Batukau, a holy temple up in the clouds. Head northwest to the crescent of mellow beach resorts at Pemuteran. From here, you can snorkel or scuba Bali's best dive site at Pulau Menjangan. Driving east, stop in Munduk for some hiking to remote waterfalls. Carry on via Candikuning to Ubud, the spiritual centre of Bali. Nights of dance and culture are offset by days of walking through the serene countryside. Do a day trip to the ancient monuments at Gunung Kawi. Head down to the cute little beach and port town of Padangbai and catch a fast boat to the Gili Islands. Wander the islands, enjoy Gili T's surprising nightlife and go snorkelling to spot a turtle.
PLAN YOUR TRIP ITINERARIES
?
29
BALI SEA
? ?
JAVA
? ?
Munduk #? Gunung ?# Batukau
Pura Luhur ?#
#? Gunung Agung
Gili Islands
#?
Batukau
Balian #?
Beach
?
? BALI #? Ubud
Nusa
Senggigi#?
#f
Denpasar #? #? #f
Balangan Sanur
Lembongan #? #? Nusa
Beach?#
Penida
Selat Lombok
INDIAN OCEAN
Sembalun GRuinnjuanngi #?#?Valley
LOMBOK
#? Kuta
Selat Alas
SUMBAWA
Three Weeks
Total Bali & Lombok
Begin your trip at Balangan Beach. Settle back in the sand and let the jetlag vanish. Stop in Denpasar for a purely Balinese lunch and then head up the hill to Ubud to get a full taste of Balinese culture. Next, tackle Gunung Agung, the spiritual centre of the island. Start early to reach the top and take in the views before the daily onslaught of clouds and mist. Having climbed Bali's most legendary peak, head west to the village of Munduk, which looks down to the north coast and the sea beyond. Go for a walk in the area and enjoy waterfalls, truly tiny villages, wild fruit trees and the sinuous bands of rice paddies lining the hills like ribbons. Then head south to the wonderful temple of Pura Luhur Batukau, and consider a trek up Bali's second-highest mountain, Gunung Batukau. Head down to the newly popular Balian Beach on the west coast for some chilled-out time in a funky surfer scene. Next, bounce across the waves from Sanur to Nusa Lembongan, the island hiding in the shadow of Nusa Penida. The latter is visible from much of the south and east ? it's lush, arid and almost unpopulated and makes a good day trip. Take in the amazing vistas from its cliffs and dive under the waves to check out the marine life. Head to the Gilis via the direct boat from Nusa Lembongan for more tranquil time circumnavigating the three islands and diving offshore. Take a boat to Senggigi, but ignore the resorts and head south. Well off the beaten path, the south coast near Lombok's Kuta has stunning beaches and surfing to reward the intrepid. The seldom-driven back roads of the interior will thrill the adventurous and curious, with tiny villages where you can learn about the amazing local handicrafts. Many of these roads lead up the flanks of Gunung Rinjani, the volcanic peak that shelters the lush and remote Sembalun Valley. Trekking from one village to the next on the rim can take days, but is one of the great walks.
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