Stage 6 Learning The Art of Effective Problem Solving.docx
STAGE 6: LEARNING THE ART OF EFFECTIVE PROBLEM SOLVINGGoalsList 4 goals you learned about in stage 6:Understand the Importance of Problem Solving.Learn Techniques to Effectively Explain Behavior Problem SolutionsLearn Solutions to the Following Behavior Problems:JumpingPuppy Nipping and MouthingUnruly Behavior in the HouseBeggingStealing FoodJumping on FurnitureExcessive BarkingInappropriate ChewingStool EatingHousetrainingDiggingBolting 4. Become Comfortable with Reciting These SolutionsProblem Solving BasicsABC defines a “behavior problem” or “problem behavior” as a behavior that a dog owner deems problematic.It is important to understand that the same behavior may be deemed problematic by one dog owner and completely acceptable or even encouraged by another dog owner.It is critical that an ABC Certified Dog Trainer treats the cause of a behavior, not just the symptom.BEHAVIOR PROBLEM-However, in some instances, dog owners with German Shepherds would not consider jumping a problem behavior because they are planning on pursuing a sport which encourages jumping on people (i.e., protection sports).It is imperative that you are clear on what the dog owner considers problem behaviors when you develop your Treatment Plan.Physical and Mental StimulationLack of physical exercise and/or mental stimulation alone can create or contribute to certain behavior problems.If physical exercise and mental stimulation are not addressed as part of a Treatment Plan, you will more than likely be treating only the symptom.If this happens, it is extremely likely that a different behavior problem will manifest as a result.Medical IssuesMedical issues should also be considered when treating behavior problems.Some medical problems can cause pain, discomfort, and physical or emotional instability in puppies and dogs.Sometimes an experience observer can provide a great deal of insight when trying to determine if a dog is dealing with undiagnosed medical problem.Name 4 components that are addressed when treating behavior problems-also known as the Treatment PlanPositive Reinforcement of Alternate BehaviorsManagement and Setting the Dog up to SucceedConsequences for the Problem BehaviorsConsistency in Dealing with Problem BehaviorsPositive Reinforcement of Alternate BehaviorsThe majority of the behaviors we humans label “problems” are typically normal dog behaviors that become inappropriate when demonstrated in our human environment.Behaviors like jumping, digging, chewing, etc. are all normal dog behaviors.Discovering and desensitizing the dog to the trigger may very well determine the success or failure of the Treatment Plan.SELF-REWARDING BEHAVIORSIn addition, they are usually self-rewarding behaviors, which means the dog truly enjoys engaging in them.Management of the Problem and Setting the Dog up to SucceedDog owners need to be educated about the importance of management and setting their dog up to succeed.The idea is to provide the dog with every possible opportunity to learn that the new alternate behavior is more rewarding for him than the previous problem behavior.Until a dog is proficient at offering the new acceptable behavior in a particular situation (approximately 90% successful), the dog must be prevented from offering the inappropriate behavior at all times whether the owner is present or not.Consequences for the Problem BehaviorsConsequences are designed to tell a dog that the behavior he just offered moves him farther away from his reward.In addition, a proper consequences should impact the dog enough that it decreases his desire to offer the behavior again while compelling him to offer the appropriate behavior immediately with a good attitude.ABC believes the use of negative reinforcement or positive punishment should only be used sparingly, if at all, and should only be considered if:The dog has a clear understanding of the requests.All other methods have been exhausted.The success of the training plan is in jeopardy.Consistency in Dealing With Problem BehaviorsDogs respond well to consistency.Explain to your clients that dogs are happy, confident and secure in an environment where the rules and expectations are consistent.Explain that dogs become suspicious and untrusting of an owner who changes the rules by expecting compliance sometimes but not others.Owners who teach their dogs that a behavior is acceptable sometimes and then get angry at the dog for the behavior at other times will almost always have a difficult time eliminating the problem. JumpingFinish the sentence:A trainer must first determine whether the dog is engaging in friendly or serious jumping.If you as the professional trainer determine that the dog is engaging in serious jumping, you should encourage the owners to utilize the techniques outlined in Learning Theory under “Leadership Exercises.”Situation #1-My dog jumps on all of my guests at the front doorPositive Reinforcement of Alternate Behaviors:Finish the sentence:The dog must have a clear understanding of the alternate behavior that you are looking for. In this case, a Sit or Sit-Stay is an appropriate alternate behavior.The dog approaches the owner and sits calmly by the chair while the owner watches favorite TV program or reads a book. As long as the dog remains sitting calmly, the owner should reward him with petting or give him his favorite chewy. During commercials, the owner may even play with the dog by throwing his favorite toy down the hall or across the room, engaging him in game of fetch.You should emphasize the importance of rewarding the dog each and every time he is sitting near anyone calmly, especially new people and for approaching people calmly.Management of the Problem and Setting the Dog up to Succeed:Finish the sentence:The owner must manage the dog’s environment.A head collar is highly recommended in this situation.When working on inappropriate jumping, do not allow an unleashed dog to greet people at the front door until he can greet them approximately 90% of the time in the sit position while he is on-leash.Consequences of Inappropriate Jumping:Finish the sentence:One of the most effective corrections for problem jumping is to remove the very reward the dog is trying to obtain -- attention.To do this, remove any opportunity the dog has for physical contact or eye contact by having the guests turn away from the dog and tuck their hands underneath their arms when the dog jumps.Provided the dog is in the sit position, the owner and the guest should calmly pet and praise the dog. The guest should be instructed to keep her hands below the level of the dog’s chin when petting. This will help keep the dog from jumping up as he will be focused on the hands, which are below him.Important Note: If the jumping is any way aggressive or if the dog begins to react aggressively, immediately stop this training and begin to work on the aggression issues before the dog has further contact with strangers and/or guests. Consistency in Dealing with Jumping:Finish the sentence:The owner should be prepared to consistency practice the non-jumping exercises at least 10 minutes per day with consistently praising the dog for calm behavior when people are present. If the owner is not consistent, the dog will not be consistent either.Remind the owner that jumping is often a self-rewarding behavior and most dogs will continue to jump at every opportunity if the training is inconsistent.Situation #2-My dog jumps all over me the instant we see each other, whether I have been gone all day or just a few minutes. Positive Reinforcement of Alternate Behaviors:Finish the sentence:Just like when treating a dog who jumps on guests, when treating a dog who greets his owner by jumping, the owner must learn to positively reinforce alternate behaviors.It is very important to pet and verbally praise the dog every time he approaches without jumping. Keep in mind that it is often not enough to just verbally praise some dogs for not jumping; petting, toys and treats may also be used to make the attention truly rewarding.Owners should be instructed to reward their dog for several seconds for all non-jumping greetings.The owner needs to reward her dog a minimum of 10 minutes per day while he is sitting, standing, or lying down calmly.Instruct the owner to pet/reward the dog for a longer period of time if he is sitting near them as opposed to standing or lying down.Important Note: If a dog is overly excited and jumping all over an owner after only a few minutes of separation, you may want to determine if the is suffering mildly from separation anxiety. If this is the case, you will to treat the separation anxiety before beginning any of the jumping training discussed in this section. A dog with separation anxiety will most likely be incapable of learning not to jump until he is able to be calm in the owner’s absence.Management of the Problem and Setting the Dog up to Succeed:Finish the sentence:Before any greeting is done with an untrained dog, he should be put on a leash should be easily accessible.The owner should also be prepared to redirect the dog by offering the dog an alternative stimulus before he jumps.Consequences of Inappropriate Jumping:Finish the sentence:The most common and most preferred consequence is to remove the reward the dog is trying to obtain -- attention.In general, when the dog jumps the owner should turn away and instantly stop all interactions when the dog, both verbal and physical.Most dogs learn very quickly that quickly that they will be ignored unless they are in the sit position.Important Safety Note: Never leave a leash on a dog who is unsupervised as this is a safety hazard.Consistency in Dealing with Jumping:Finish the sentence:Remind your clients that owners who teach their dogs that jumping is acceptable sometimes (when they have jeans on) but not other times (when they have linen slacks on) will almost always have a difficult time eliminating the problem.Situation #3-My dog jumps all over me whenever I try to put the leash on him. Dogs tend to jump excitedly when they see the leash, not because they love the leash, but because they love what the leash represents -- a walk.It does not take long for a dog to make the connection between the leash and going for a walk.Positive Reinforcement of Alternative Behaviors:All owners of dogs with a jumping problem should begin the training protocol for Sit-Stay outlined in the Basic Obedience Cues stage.The ideal alternate behavior for jumping is a Sit or Sit-Stay.In addition, it is also important to implement some simple desensitization and counterconditioning exercises.Management of the Problem and Setting the Dog up to Succeed:Finish the sentence:Some owners take their dogs for walks on a daily basis.It is still important that they do not reward the dog for unruly behavior by taking him for a walk when he is jumping.Consequences of Inappropriate Jumping:Finish the sentence:What most owners do is struggle and struggle with the wiggling, jumping dog until they finally get the leash attached and then take the dog for a walk.This actually rewards the dog for struggling and wiggling.Instead, you need to teach owners to remove the opportunity the dog is trying to obtain, the opportunity to go for a walk, as a consequences for jumping.Consistency in Dealing with Jumping:Finish the sentence:If during practice the owner requires calm behavior but for the actual walk, she lets the dog be jumpy because she is in a hurry, she is actually teaching the jumping works and he will increase the behavior.Situation #4-My dog jumps all over me whenever I try to play with him.Positive Reinforcement of Alternative Behaviors:Finish the sentence:Examples of playtime behaviors might be the game of fetch or the game of hide-and-seek.Management of the Problem and Setting the Dog up to Succeed:The owner should always have several toys and treats on-hand before playing with the dog.Remind the owner that if she doesn’t bring toys to the party, she will become the toy.Have the owner be prepared to manage the dog’s jumping behavior by having several toys to keep him running and/or treats if needed to reward non-jumping behavior.Consequences of Inappropriate Jumping:Finish the sentence:Negative punishment is an excellent consequence to use in this context!Some trainers use positive punishment to correct jumping; however, we believe this is not necessary.Simply removing what the dog wants most in this circumstance -- the owner and the toy -- is too powerful not to work!Consistency in Dealing with the Problem BehaviorIf the owner plays roughly, which includes wrestling and vigorous petting, the dog will be far more likely to jump.When the owner wants to play with the dog, she should direct the dog’s attention to proper toys to reduce the chance that he will jump.Refer to “Leadership Exercises” in Learning Theory for a list of proper toys.Every person the dog comes in regular contact with, be it other family members, housemates or frequent quests, should be required to follow all four steps of the Treatment Plan.It only takes one person to hinder the process.It is also important to educate owners about the importance of supervising all play between their dog and children.Important Note:Educate your clients about consistently giving their dogs sufficient exercise on a daily basis. Different dogs have different exercise requirements. If a dog with a high exercise requirement does not have the opportunity to expend his energy in an acceptable fashion (i.e., playing with other dogs at doggie day care, going for a two-mile jog (not walk), or playing fetch nonstop for 30 minutes), it will be difficult to control behaviors such as jumping.Training Tip: The owner should always be aware of the location of the rope in relation to her feet. It is very easy for an owner to become tangled in the rope and be pulled off her feet when the dog takes off chasing a toy.Positive Punishment Techniques:Below is a list of positive punishment and negative reinforcement training techniques that some trainers use to treat problem jumping.ABC is not encouraging the use of these techniques as primary training tools; however, we do believe that ABC Certified Dog Trainers should have a complete education.Remember that “reactions” or corrections to jumping do not replace actual training where the dog learns not to jump even when excited or distracted.VERBAL CORRECTION-The dog must have a clear understanding of the word in order for this techniques to be effective.If the dog does not immediately stop jumping after a firm verbal correction (“No” or “Eh-Eh”), try a different technique.If the dog does stop jumping, make sure he has all four paws on the floor before instructing the owner to give the conditioned reinforcer and unconditioned reinforcer or to interact with him in any way.The owner should remove all attention the instant he begins to jump again.SQUIRTING WATER IN THE DOG’S FACE-The instant the dog jumps up, squirt him in the face.Do not aim for his eyes! Do not add anything to the water! This should cause him to stop jumping momentarily.As soon as he has all four paws on the floor, give the conditioned reinforcer, followed by the unconditioned reinforcer.Never use this surprise correction technique or any other surprise correction technique on a fearful dog or puppy.SHAKER CAN-A shaker can is an aluminum soda can with approximately 25 pennies in it.The top of the can should be taped over so the pennies won’t fell out.The instant the dog jumps up, the owner should take the can of pennies from behind her back, shake it, and then quickly hide the can behind her back again.Remember, the shaker can is not meant to scare the dog; it is used to startle him so he will stop jumping and give you or the owner a chance to reward him for having all four paws on the ground.Never use this surprise correction technique or any other surprise correction technique on a fearful dog or puppy.LEASH CORRECTION-An effective leash correction is a quick motion where the owner abruptly pulls the leash hard enough to momentarily tighten the collar around the dog’s neck and then immediately releases the pressure.This is sometimes called a “pop” or “leash-pop.”The “pop” needs to be given at a level of intensity that will immediately stop the behavior the instant the dog starts to jump.As soon as he has all four paws on the floor, the owner should give the conditioned reinforcer and unconditioned MON PROBLEMS ENCOUNTERED WHEN MODIFYING JUMPING BEHAVIORPROBLEM-I tried to ignore the dog while he was jumping but he just kept on jumping. I finally had to scold him and tell him to get down. He does not seem to understand not to jump without me yelling at him.SOLUTIONSWait for Calm BehaviorConsider Using Corrections 2. PROBLEM-Every time I arrive home from work the dog jumps all over me. I realize that he has been alone for 10 hours, but I cannot get him to stop and he is ruining my clothes.SOLUTIONSIncrease Social InteractionSet the Dog up to Succeed3. PROBLEM- The dog does not jump on me anyone but other family members or guests are fair game. I do not really mind if he jumps on the kids but I get really embarrassed when he jumps on guests.SOLUTIONSOther Family MembersGuests4. PROBLEM- I just cannot handle this behavior anymore; my dog is still jumping on me; nothing I do seems to help. I’m thinking of finding him a new home.SOLUTIONS Consider Using CorrectionsPuppy Nipping and MouthingFinish the sentence:A trainer must first determine if a puppy is engaging in friendly nipping and mouthing or serious nipping and mouthing. Typically, friendly nipping and mouthing occurs during excitable greetings or during playtime with a puppy who is less than five months of age.Puppy nipping is also a form of social play between puppies and dogs.Situation #1-My puppy nips and mouths my hands whenever I try to pet him.Positive Reinforcement of Alternate Behaviors:Finish the sentence:Petting is often viewed by puppies as an invitation to play, which to a puppy often means nipping and mouthing.By instructing the owner to pet the puppy when he is least likely to react by nipping and mouthing, the owners can positively reinforce the absence of the nipping and mouthing behavior during petting. This will also help to develop the puppy’s impulse control.Make it a point to pet the puppy whenever he is tired. A tired puppy is much less likely to nip.Management of the Problem and Setting the Dog up to Succeed:Finish the sentence:Understand that it is only natural for a puppy to respond by nipping when you attempt to pet him and that it is your job as a trainer to teach the owner techniques to redirect the nipping and mouthing behavior so the puppy can be positively reinforced for not nipping.Advise the puppy owner to avoid tug-of-war type games as this can potentially encourage puppy nipping as well as other problems such as aggression.Avoid any type of games or interaction that involves play-slapping and roughhousing.Make sure young, active puppies get plenty of exercise like running and walking daily.Teach owners that if they do not bring toys or treats with them when interacting with a young puppy, the puppy may assume their hands, arms, pants and shoes are the toys.By using toys and treats, owners will be able to redirect the puppy’s attention onto a new toy the instant the puppy gets bored and begins nipping and mouthing his owners. Consequences for Nipping or Mouthing:Finish the sentence:Sometimes it is helpful for owners to spray their hands with a product made to deter puppies from chewing before they attempt to pet a nippy puppy.This is an example of freezing and removing all attention as a consequence to nipping. This correction for nipping works very well on puppies who really like human interaction, are high in social drive and seem to be looking for ways to touch and please their owners.Loud noises to interrupt unwanted puppy nipping can also be used as a consequence.Consistency in Dealing with Nipping or Mouthing:Finish the sentence:In summary, provide everyone who interacts with the puppy with the tools to reinforce the appropriate behavior, manage their interactions with the puppy, and deliver appropriate consequences for lapses.Situation #2-Help! I want to play with my puppy, but he nips and grabs at my clothes whenever I try. Positive Reinforcement of Alternate Behaviors:Finish the sentence:Instruct the owners to give the majority of their attention to the puppy when the puppy is calm or preoccupied chewing a toy. Teach the owners acceptable substitute games to play with their puppy that do not include nipping and mouthing. This was they can reinforce the appropriate play behavior each time they wish to play with their puppy.A great game for owners to play with their puppy or dog is the fetch game. Recommend that the owners teach their puppy to play hide-and-seek.Incorporating known obedience cues like Sits and Downs into playtime is a great way to obedience fun for the puppy. It will also help keep the puppy from getting overly excited.Management of the Problem and Setting the Dog up to Succeed:Finish the sentence:Suggest that owners select a couple a areas around their home where they will typically play with their puppy. A few examples might be the hallway, the garage, or the side yard.Play toys are not chew toys or toys that are left out all the time. These are toys that are only brought out for playtime.Consequences for Nipping or Mouthing:Finish the sentence:Ideally, after any correction for nipping or mouthing (i.e., shunning, freezing), the puppy should automatically default to an alternate behavior like licking, nuzzling or backing away and looking up at his owner for direction.Remember and remind the owner to wait long enough after the puppy has stopped nipping or mouthing, at least two seconds, before praising the acceptable alternate behavior.Sometimes it is helpful for owners to spray their hands with a product made to deter puppies from chewing. Using loud noises to interrupt unwanted puppy nipping can also be used during playtime. Use a leash and head collar to redirect the puppy. This consequence involves removing the puppy’s mouth from the owner’s skin using a leash and head collar. Consistency in Dealing with Nipping or Mouthing:Finish the sentence:Owners who teach their dogs that nipping and mouthing is acceptable sometimes but not at other times will almost always have a difficult time eliminating the problem.Situation #3-Help! My puppy greets me by nipping and grabbing at my hands and clothes Positive Reinforcement of Alternate Behaviors:Finish the sentence:When you are treating a puppy for inappropriate nipping and mouthing during greetings, it is critical to pet, praise, and treat the puppy each and every time the puppy is near anyone and not nipping and mouthing them, especially new people.Practice the Sit and Sit-stay exercises near the front door and in the backyard as well as in other areas where inappropriate greetings occur.Basic obedience exercises like Sit-Stay and Down-Stay around distractions will teach the puppy to focus on the owner and develop some impulse control.Management of the Problem and Setting the Dog up to Succeed:Finish the sentence:The owners should instruct new people the puppy comes into contact with to greet the puppy calmly so they do not encourage the nipping behavior. Educate the puppy owner about the importance of properly confining her dog while she is gone. Greetings are much more manageable when a dog is confined and cannot greet the owner at will. Instruct the owner to spray her hands, feet, and clothes with a chewing deterrent before greeting the puppy whenever possible. The owner should greet her very-excited puppy with at least two toys in-hand.Until the puppy has learned to greet people properly, he should be put on leash and head collar before he greets new people. Consequences for Nipping or Mouthing:Finish the sentence:Puppies who greet guest by nipping should be put on a leash and head collar prior to greetings. This way, the owner can control the situation and prevent any nipping during greetings. Consistency in Dealing with Nipping or Mouthing:Finish the sentence:Most guests will not know what to do with a puppy and will probably be unaware that they are encouraging the behavior by petting him as he is nipping and mouthing them. COMMON PROBLEMS ENCOUNTERED WHEN TREATING NIPPING AND MOUTHING1. PROBLEM-Help! I think my puppy is possessed. Several times a day he just goes crazy, running around and nipping and mouthing at anyone or anything that gets in the way. SOLUTIONSABC affectionately calls these the “puppy crazies.”The “puppies crazies” are bursts of uncontrollable energy that last for just a few minutes and often there is absolutely nothing an owner can do to interrupt or extinguish them.Puppy crazies typically disappear completely after a dog is about a year old and most puppy owners actually miss them when they are gone. 2. PROBLEM-I have tried everything and nothing is working. I have to constantly ignore him; I feel like I do not get a chance to give him attention at all. SOLUTIONSTrainers will usually get this response from an owner who does not understand what positive reinforcement training is.ABC Certified Dog Trainers should explain (over and over again if necessary) the importance of positive reinforcement training and managing the puppy’s behavior.In this situation, the puppy may have developed a number of new bad habits because the owner has been letting the puppy run wild while waiting for an opportunity to praise him.3. PROBLEM-The puppy usually does not nip at the adults in the house, but I cannot get him to stop nipping at and/or chasing the children. SOLUTIONSSome working or herding breeds may be exhibiting natural play behavior toward the children whom they think are puppies too.The owner should teach the child how to play appropriate games with the puppy.Instead, the owner should practice a nipping Treatment Plan with the child and the puppy and supervise every interaction between the two until the puppy has learned that nipping is unacceptable.Also, the child can be treated with a nontoxic chewing deterrent product to discourage the dog from putting his mouth on her.TRAINING TIPSPatience and ConsistencyPotential Leadership IssuePotential Dominance IssueUNRULY BEHAVIOR IN THE HOUSEFinish the sentence:Because of this, you must teach your clients that they need to help their dogs get a sufficient amount of exercise by walking them or playing fetch with them daily, in order to successfully deal with this problem. Positive Reinforcement of Alternate Behaviors:Finish the sentence:One of the things an ABC Certified Dog Trainer should teach dog owners is to avoid inadvertently reinforcing inappropriate behaviors. This is one of the reason why putting a dog on a leash and collar before bringing him into the house is such a good idea.The dog’s perception is, “Wow, they let me in the house and then they chased me all over the place. This is great fun! I need to make sure I act like this the next time they let me in the house.”Dogs need to understand that their behavior will produce specific results.By teaching the dog owners to pay attention to their dog only when he is exhibiting calm behavior, you will help the dog understand that calm behavior produces the results he is looking for. Management of the Problem and Setting the Dog up to Succeed:Finish the sentence:Example - Provide Sufficient Exercise;Be sure the dog has sufficient exercise on a regular basis. A favorite dog trainer saying is “a tired dog is a good dog.”to begin teaching the dog to come in the house calmly, the owner will need to put the dog on a leash and head collar before bringing him into the house, every single time. If the dog has a head collar and leash on every time he enters the house, the possibility of him misbehaving can potentially be eliminated. Once the dog is wearing his leash and head collar, ask the owner to walk the dog through the house. Suggest that the owner allows the dog to sniff and walk around each room that she plans on giving him access to. Consequences of Unruly Behavior in the House:Finish the sentence:Example - No Reward Marker and Redirecting the Dog; If at any time during the tour of the house the dog does something the owner considers inappropriate house behavior, the owner should give the No Reward Marker (i.e., “No”) and immediately interrupt the behavior. Consistency in Dealing with Unruly Behavior in the House:Finish the sentence:A good trainer must help his or her clients understand that the majority of behaviors we humans label “problems” (i.e., jumping, chewing, digging, nipping, unruly behavior in the house) are self-rewarding behaviors for the dog. Important Note: The Treatment Plan must be followed consistently in order to achieve success.Expect to adhere to the Treatment Plan for several weeks or, in some cases, several months before gradually increasing the amount of freedom the dog is offered. Freedom is an earned MON PROBLEMS ENCOUNTERED WHEN TREATING UNRULY HOUSE BEHAVIOR1. PROBLEM-Every time I bring the dog in the house, he goes wild, running around the living room, jumping on people and grabbing forbidden objects.SOLUTIONSThis issue actually encompasses three problems: jumping, inappropriate chewing and unruly house behavior. All of these problems should be worked on in addition to the unruly house behavior. Exercise, exercise, exercise! This may be a case of the owners thinking that because they have decided to train the dog, the dog should be good. Unfortunately, they have neglected to exercise the dog before training sessions.A dog who is on a leash cannot run wild around the house. Some owners will try to take the easy way out or are so excited to have the dog in the house that they rush the training process. Instruct the owner to be patient, give the dog plenty of exercise and progress at the dog’s pace.BEGGINGFinish the sentence:Most dogs who beg for food from the table have owners who have inadvertently created this behavior by feeding their dog from the table.To resolve this problem, the owners will need to be consistent in managing the begging behavior, positively reinforcing the non-begging behavior and effectively interrupting the dog when he engages in the inappropriate behavior.Positive Reinforcement of Alternate Behaviors:Finish the sentence:Instruct the dog owners to develop a good Down-Stay in a spot they would like the dog to stay in during normal meal times. The spot should be visible to the owners from the table where meals are typically eaten and have a place to tether the dog in case he breaks the stay.Some suggestions might be the handle of a closed door or a very heavy table leg.Management of the Problem and Setting the Dog up to Succeed:Finish the sentence:The simplest way to manage this problem is not to put the dog in a situation where begging is possible until he has learned an alternate behavior (i.e., Down-Stay).Suggest that the dog owner puts the dog in a crate, tethers the dog away from the table or puts the dog in the backyard during meals until that time.It is critical that the owner understands that she can never again feed the dog while she is eating.Consequences of Inappropriate begging:Finish the sentence:If the dog whines or barks while in his crate during meal times, the owner may simply move the crate out of sight.For exceptionally persistent dog, owners can try covering the crate with a blanket or sheet until they are quiet. If the dog whines or barks while tethered during meal times, he should be moved farther away from the table and, if necessary, put outside.These things will effectively interrupt and correct the unwanted behavior. Consistency in Dealing with begging:Finish the sentence:Consistency is critical when working to curtail or eliminate begging. COMMON PROBLEMS ENCOUNTERED WHEN TREATING BEGGING1. PROBLEM-We tether the dog in his assigned spot during meal times and he just barks and whines the whole time. SOLUTIONSInsufficient ReinforcementIgnore the Unwanted BehaviorInconsistent Training Stealing food from CountersFinish the sentence:The dog knows that food is on the counter and dogs like to eat. Almost all dogs are stimulated by the numerous intriguing scents attached to the various food items that are initially prepared on the counter.Once they are successful at eating something yummy that they took from the counter, they have learned that stealing food from the counter is very rewarding. Positive Reinforcement of Alternate Behaviors:Finish the sentence:One way to positively reinforce a dog for not stealing food from the counters involves setting up a situation where food is on the counter and the dog knows it.Have the owner bring the dog into the kitchen and practice simple known obedience cues like Sit and Stay near the counter with food on it. The owner should reward the dog with his favorite unconditioned reinforcers (i.e., treats, attention, praise) for obeying each cue and not jumping on the counter.Management of the Problem and Setting the Dog up to Succeed:Finish the sentence:They will arbitrarily take a piece of food off the counter and immediately hand it to the dog.Dog owners who do this encourage the dog to jump up on the counter.You should instruct your clients to never feed their dog from the counter and to stop immediately if they are doing it now.It is also a good idea to recommend that dog owners do not feed these dogs their meals in the kitchen area.Consequences for stealing food from counters:Finish the sentence:Make sure that the client properly booby-traps the counters to ensure that the dog will not be able to get the food off the counter when he jumps up. Some professionals dog trainers recommend a static shock mat. Important Note:Consequences should not frighten a dog. Be exceptionally cautious when giving sound or tactile corrections to all dogs, especially sensitive ones.Consistency in Dealing with stealing food from counters:Finish the sentence:Each time the dog is able to jump up, get the food and get away with it, he is getting a very special reward for this MON PROBLEMS ENCOUNTERED WHEN TREATING STEALING FOOD FROM COUNTERS1. PROBLEM-No matter what I do, the dog still steals food from the counter. SOLUTIONSThe owner is obviously still leaving food on the counter for the dog to steal. Remind the owner of how important management of the situation is and suggest that she crates the dog with his favorite chew toy while dinner is being prepared and it is necessary to have food on the counter. If the owner is leaving meat out to thaw, suggest that she puts it on a plate in the oven instead of leaving it on the counter. Remind the owner that every single time the dog gets food from the counter, it rewards the behavior.If the owner has been very diligent or is unable to convince the rest of the family not to leave food out, you should suggest that the dog is not allowed into the kitchen at any time. Explain and work with the owner on boundary training techniques. Refer to the “Bolting” information located in this stage.Jumping on the FurnitureFinish the sentence:The furniture is probably the most comfortable place for the dog to lie and it affords him a good view of his domain.Jumping on the furniture is also something that can easily occur when the owner is not present.Positive Reinforcement of Alternate Behaviors:Finish the sentence:Instruct the owner to attach a leash to the dog’s collar and walk him over to the furniture. She should walk the dog all around the furniture, stopping in front of sofas and chairs.Have the owner use food treats, praise and petting to show the dog that she likes it very much when he remains on the floor and does not jump on the furniture.Have the owner make an alternate resting place on the floor more comfortable for the dog to be on by purchasing a nice, soft pad for him to rest on. Management of the Problem and Setting the Dog up to Succeed:Finish the sentence:If monitoring the dog is not possible, the dog needs to be prevented from having access to the furniture. The owner can close the door, put up a baby gate, tether the dog in his resting place, or put him outside.Tethering the dog in his resting place for the first few days will prevent him from being able to get up and move more than a foot or so from his mat.The owner should give him treat, toys and attention while he is on his mat and should never leave the dog unattended while he is tied.The owner should be sure to praise and reward the dog for lying calmly on his mat so he begins to understand that this is a very rewarding behavior. Later on, the dog should be allowed to drag a leash and move around the room that his owner is in. The leash will allow the owner to stop him from getting up on the furniture if he tries.Consequences for jumping on the furniture:Finish the sentence:Instruct the owner to walk nonchalantly over to the dog when he is on the furniture.Do not have her run over yelling and screaming or he will probably jump down and dart away.Once the owner gets to the dog, have her grasp the leash hanging from the dog’s collar and walk briskly away from the dog, putting him off the item.Shaker canThe owner must be nonchalant. If the owner is in the room with the dog and sees the dog jump up on the furniture, she should not go running after the dog, yelling and shaking the can or he is definitely going to make an association with her.The owner must try to be very casual and shake the can so he cannot see it. The dog should jump off the furniture.Once he has all four feet on the floor, the owner should praise lavishly to reward the correct behavior. If shaking the can does not cause the dog to get off the furniture, have the owner calmly walk over to the dog, take the end of the leash and pull him off the item. Static Electric MatThe static mat is a very low-voltage electrical mat. The mat puts out a mild static shock.Many trainers claim that this is a very effective training tool.Begin by having the owner place the static mat on the furniture when the dog is not present.If the dog touches it, he gets a mild static shock (much like the shock people receive from dragging their feet on the carpet) which will very quickly teach him not to jump on the furniture. Motion SensorIf the dog likes the overstuffed chair in the family room, the motion sensor should be set up so it will be set off the instant the goes over to the chair. The alarm will startle him and teach him to avoid the chair even when his owners are not present. Make the furniture less comfortableA piece of carpet runner turned prickly-side-up or even something as simple as aluminum foil placed over furniture can also be effective on some dogs.Important Note: CONSEQUENCES ARE NOT THE SOLUTION!The solution is not just to get a static mat or motion sensor.It is not just to put the dog on a leash and keep him tethered all the time.The solution is not just to praise the dog when he is by the couch or chair and not jumping up.The solution is to do all of these things consistently in the proper order.As an ABC Certified Dog Trainer, it is your responsibility to help your clients understand that a puzzle is only complete when all the pieces are put together.Consistency in Dealing with jumping on the furniture:Finish the sentence:Simply put, most dogs truly enjoy engaging in these “problem” behaviors and will not miss an opportunity to partake in them. COMMON PROBLEMS ENCOUNTERED WHEN JUMPING ON THE FURNITURE1. PROBLEM-My dog growls at me when I try to remove him from the furniture. SOLUTIONSThis is more than just jumping on the furniture problem. This is a relationship problem. Instruct the owner to focus on Leadership Exercises and to make the furniture less comfortable by using upside-down carpet runners. Do not use positive punishment or negative reinforcement techniques on this dog.2. PROBLEM-I cannot keep the dog off the furniture; every time I turn my back, up he goes. SOLUTIONSGo over the four components of problem solving with the owner. Determine which of the steps the owner is being inconsistent with (i.e., positive reinforcement of alternate behaviors, management, consequences or consistency.)Excessive BarkingName six types of barking:Excited Play Alert BarkingFearful Alarm BarkingDominance BarkingTerritorial BarkingBoredom BarkingLearned BarkingFinish the sentence:Always determine the dog’s threshold for barking behavior before training. There is no benefit to placing the dog in a situation where he is incapable of not barking and then trying to train the dog to be quiet.The dog should be lured with be lured with a food treat, not pulled, far enough away from the stimulus he is barking at until he can control himself and not bark.At least two seconds after the barking has stopped, he should be rewarded for being quiet while keeping his attention focused on the owner.In addition, teach the owner to watch her dog for stress indicators.Minor Stress IndicatorsMajor Stress IndicatorsWon’t take food from owner, trainer, or strangersWon’t look at ownerWon’t comply with known obedience cue AggressionTrying to leave the training areaFreezes and won’t moveFlops around like a fish on a line“Faints” or lies down and refuses to moveWon’t stop staring at the stimulus he is barking atHackles upEyes dilatedHas whale eyes (showing the whites of the eye)Sweaty PawsShallow, rapid breathingShowing teethPositive Reinforcement of Alternate Behaviors:Finish the sentence:The owners must understand that these barkers need to learn to earn praise and not demand it.Dogs who demand attention will not be given it and will instead be asked to engage in an appropriate alternative behavior, such as sitting or lying down, as a way of getting the things they want.Make sure to pick obedience cues that are familiar to the dog so he can be successful.Management of the Problem and Setting the Dog up to Succeed:Finish the sentence:One possible solution might be ignoring the behavior, although this can be tough to do. Clients must be prepared for increased barking until the dog finally gives up and stops barking. This increased barking is called an extinction burst.Consequences for excessive barking:Finish the sentence:Shaker cans and water squirts guns are used by some trainers in the industry to treat excessive barking.ABC cautions against their use and recommends they are only used in conjunction with rewarding an alternate behavior and only after the proper relationship has been established between the owner and the dog.If you are treating a dog who barks continuously at the sliding glass door to be let in, you might consider having the owner practice Sit-Stays with the dog on the outside of the door.After each successful Sit-Stay at the sliding glass door, the owner should let the dog come into the house. This will teach the dog an alternate behavior he can perform to get the owner to open the door. Consistency in Dealing with excessive barking:Finish the sentence:Dogs respond well to consistency. Explain to your clients that dogs are happier, confident and secure in an environment where the rules are consistent.Explain that dogs become suspicious and untrusting of an owner who changes the rules by requiring compliance sometimes but not others. EXCITED PLAY ALERT BARKINGFinish the sentence:This type of barking is usually directed at things the dog sees but cannot get to.They may include other dogs, people, a ball, squirrels or other small animals, cats, etc.These owners should be informed that this kind of barking will probably subside as the dog matures if the owners continue to work on obedience, focus, exercises and socialization. Proper desensitization will result in the dog learning to ignore the previously-meaningful stimulus which prompted the barking. Have the owners focus on teaching their dog to listen to them around distractions, especially the types of distractions that may stimulate barking. Remind owners to enthusiastically praise acceptable non-barking, focused behavior whenever it occurs, especially around distractions.Administering positive punishment corrections too soon may initially suppress the barking, but the dog may develop negative associations to whatever he was barking. This increases the likelihood of a future aggression problem. FEARFUL ALARM BARKINGFinish the sentence:Fearful alarm barking is usually demonstrated by under-socialized or genetically shy dogs.The dog’s body posture is generally backward or low and her may lean his owner. To help the dog overcome his fears, it will be important to work with the dog when he is very hungry. If the dog is hungry enough, food overcomes fear.In addition, these owners must make the dog work for everything he gets to help develop a more outgoing attitude in general.To begin treating a do who is fearful alarm barking, the trainer and the dog owner must first identify exactly what the dog is fearful of and then establish a threshold of tolerance, or behavioral threshold. A dog’s threshold of tolerance is defined as the distance the dog needs to be from whatever he’s fearful of in order to refrain from barking and relax enough to concentrate on the owner instead of the fearful stimulus.Working Within the Threshold of ToleranceMrs. Jones has a one-and-a-half-year-old Rottweiler mix. The dog was obtained at ten and a half weeks old and adequately socialized. He was friendly with people and other dogs, neutered at ten and a half months old, and in excellent health. The problem was that the dog would bark uncontrollably whenever Mrs. Jones’ gardeners would enter the yard.Mrs. Jones speculated that something happened to the dog when her partners were in the yard. She had no memory of this behavior occurring before the age of six months.Fear barking is often a workable and sometimes surprisingly easy behavior to treat. It is also one that is best dealt with in private lessons as opposed to group class lessons.DOMINANCE BARKINGFinish the sentence:Dominance barking is most often seen in adult intact males. It is also more common in the working and herding class breeds, such as Akitas, Rottweilers, German Shepherds Dogs, and Doberman Pinschers; however, it occur with any breed, male or female, intact or not. The barking is not the problem; it is the dominate behavior that is the problem. The greatest improvement in this kind of barking will come from changing the relationship so the dog sees the owner as a strong and benevolent leader.It is vitally important that this type of barking be taken very seriously by the owner and trainer because it can quickly escalate from dominance barking to dominance aggression if left untreated. If the dog is an intact male and the barking and growling seems to be directed at other male dogs, it may be helpful to have the dog neutered. TERRITORIAL BARKINGFinish the sentence:Territorial barking is most commonly seen in the working and herding class breeds, such as Akitas, Rottweilers, German Shepherd Dogs, and Doberman Pinschers; however, it can occur with any breed.It is generally easy to identify territorial barking. These types of dogs will usually not barks unless they are at home (i.e., their territory). Sometimes territorial barkers extend their territory to the surrounding neighborhood. These dogs will then bark at passerby and other dogs on the street where they are typically taken for walks. The goal is to change the dog’s attitude about people and other animals entering his territory. To accomplish this, the dog must only receive his favorite unconditioned reinforcer (s) when a person or another dog enters the territory.The dog should never have access to these unconditioned reinforcers at any other time. Over time, the dog will begin to think that good things happen to him whenever a person or dog enters the territory.BOREDOM BARKINGFinish the sentence:Once you have ruled out physical discomfort and/or emotional problems such as separation anxiety, you can begin to treat boredom barking.Again, the problem the is not the barking. Boredom barking is not addressed by a typical Treatment Plan. Again, the problem is not the barking, it is the boredom.Most dogs will cease barking when the activity and mental stimulation available to them meets their physical and emotional requirements. PHYSICAL STIMULATIONA proper exercise program should be put in place immediately.If the dog is engaging in boredom barking, he needs to be exercised at least once a day until he is panting heavily. MENTAL STIMULATIONSince dogs are social animals, obtaining another dog for exercise or employing a dog walker/runner can be helpful.Practicing obedience and trick training every single day will also provide mental stimulation for the dog. LEARNED BARKINGFinish the sentence:Learned Barking is often demonstrated by a “bossy” dog in an attempt to get things he wants, such as attention.These dogs generally bark at their owners rather than at other dogs or people.The most common examples of learned barking include barking at the owner or other people for attention, barking at the door to be let in or out, barking at an owner cabinet for food. COMMON PROBLEMS ENCOUNTERED EXCESSIVE BARKING:1. PROBLEM-. Every time I put the dog in the backyard, he starts to bark. SOLUTIONSAsk the owner how much exercise the dog is getting. Most owners severely underestimate how much exercise a dog requires. Suggest at least one 20-minute walk per day and at least one 20-minute play session in the backyard with the dog.Ask the owner what she does when the dog is barking in the backyard. Is the owner inadvertently reinforcing the backyard barking behavior by letting the dog back into the house? 2. PROBLEM-My dog is pretty good most of the time, but he still barks out the window every time someone walks by on the street.SOLUTIONSThis is actually very common. Think about it -- every time the doorbell rings, a person comes in the house with lots of wonderful smells on them and the dog usually gets a large amount of attention too.Keep in mind that this training can take up to several months to achieve, depending on how long the dog has frantically greeted guests and how diligent the owners is. Remind the owners that they must be consistent to extinguish this behavior. A halfhearted attempt will fail to teach the dog the proper behavior.3. PROBLEM-My dog is pretty good most of the time, but he still barks out the window every time someone walks by on the street.SOLUTIONSMake sure the owners are not allowing access to the window at any time. Help the owner understand that each time the dog barks at people walking by the window, the barking behavior is being reinforced. The dog’s perception is that his barking is the reason why the people continued walking past the house and out of his territory. The dog does not understand that the person would have left his territory regardless of his barking. This reinforces territorial barking.Inappropriate ChewingFinish the sentence:Some common reasons why dogs and puppies chew are boredom, teething, enjoyment (it’s fun to tear stuff up), or an inadequate or improper diet. The goal is not to eliminate chewing but to teach the puppy which things are appropriate to chew on. Positive Reinforcement of Alternate Behaviors:Finish the sentence:Select four to five proper chew toys and instruct all family members to begin to put emphasis on these toys as their favorites.For example, Nylabones and Kongs do not resemble valuables in most homes. However, in contrast, rawhide is a leather product similar to leather to carpeting, stuffed animals, fuzzy slippers or throw pillows. Rubber or plastic squeaky toys are similar to children’s toys. Management of the Problem and Setting the Dog up to Succeed:Finish the sentence:Another way to set up the dog up to succeed is to make inappropriate items less attractive or tasty by treating the items with an anti-chewing deterrent. A proper diet is another important component in managing inappropriate chewing. Consequences for inappropriate chewing:Finish the sentence:If your client’s dog has grabbed something that she does not want him to have, chasing him all over the house simply shows the that this is an excellent way to get attention. Remember that it is not realistic to expect to stop a dog from chewing altogether, so the owner will still have to work on teaching the dog to focus on desirable chew toys. Consistency in Dealing with inappropriate chewing:Finish the sentence:Consistency is critical when working to curtail or eliminate behavior problems. CoprophagiaIf the dog is being underfed, the dog may still be hungry which may lead to stool eating.If the dog is being feed a poor-quality food, he could be suffering from malnutrition and/or vitamin and mineral deficiencies which could cause him to eat things in addition in his regular diet, such as his own stool.If the dog has a medical problem that causes a decrease in the absorption of nutrients or causes gastrointestinal upset, he may resort to stool eating.If the dog is bored and does not not have anything else to stimulate him, he might investigate his feces out of boredom, begin playing with it and then possibly start eating it.If the owners first address the possible causes of stool eating, they will probably be more successful in eliminating the problem completely.Positive Reinforcement of Alternate Behaviors:In order to positively reinforce alternate behavior for stool eating. the owner will first need to create an alternate behavior. To do this, the owner will need to be able to accurately predict when her dog will eliminate so she can create an acceptable alternate behavior immediately following elimination.To accurately predict when a dog will eliminate, it will be necessary for the owners to develop a stool schedule for their dog. In order to create a stool schedule, the owners must confine the dog whenever they are not home in an area small enough to prevent the dog from eliminating there. Management of the Problem and Setting the Dog up to Succeed:Finish the sentence:Coprophagia that stems from the dog being kept in too small of an area and/or stools not being picked up frequently enough is relatively easy to resolve. Providing the dog with sufficient exercise before placing him in his area will be extremely, helpful in treating this unwanted behavior as well. Consequences for Coprophagia:Finish the sentence: Forbid is a product that is placed in the dog’s food that makes the dog’s stool unpalatable to the dog. There are some die-hard stool eaters that will not be cured with any of the above techniques. These dogs should also be examined for possible pancreatic problems. Consistency in Dealing with Coprophagia Finish the sentence:Coprophagia is a self-rewarding behavior for a dog, the dog will not miss an opportunity to engage in the behavior if the opportunity presents itself. HousetrainingFinish the sentence:Housetraining or housebreaking is one of the more common problems that dog owners must resolve.Positive Reinforcement of Alternate Behaviors:Finish the sentence:Examples of desirable areas might be a puppy housebreaking pad by the back door or a certain designated spot in the yard.Every time the owner takes the puppy to the potty spot and he eliminates there, the owner should reward him. The puppy needs to understand that eliminating in the correct spot is always a rewarding behavior. Management of the Problem and Setting the Dog up to Succeed:Finish the sentence:It is the owner’s responsibility to be sure the puppy eliminates in the correct area, so whenever the puppy is in the house, he should be on a leash and in the owner’s presence to avoid accidents. Consequences for Inappropriate EliminationFinish the sentence: It is futile and counterproductive to spank a puppy or rub his nose in the urine and/or feces. This will typically cause the puppy for going in the correct spot impossible because he is afraid to go in the presence of his owners. Consistency in Dealing with Inappropriate Elimination Finish the sentence:Feeding the puppy at the same time every day, and going to the same potty spot every time are all good examples. Crate Training InstructionsFinish the sentence:Properly done, crate training can be an important tool for housebreaking.Explain to them that providing a crate for their dog is just as necessary from a safety standpoint as providing a crib or playpen for their baby or toddler. The crate should be placed in a quiet but well-trafficked part of the house - not right next to the front door and not in the basement. While the crate is an excellent tool, it should never be used as punishment. To get a dog or puppy accustomed to a crate, have the owner take a day or so to place treats and toys in the crate and just allow him to enter the crate to get them. The owner may also set his food bowl at the back of the crate and allow him to eat in the crate with the door open.DiggingFinish the sentence:Digging is a very common problem many dog owners experience. Positive Reinforcement of Alternate Behaviors:Finish the sentence:When the owner sees the dog in the backyard engaging in proper behavior (i.e., chewing on his toys, sunning himself), that behavior should be praised. Keep in mind that the more owners positively reinforce a behavior, the stronger that behavior is going to be and the greater the likelihood that the dog will engage in it, both when owners are there and when they are not. Management of the Problem and Setting the Dog up to Succeed:Finish the sentence:Make sure the dog’s owners do not ever let the dog see them planting or working in the garden.If the dog sees his owners digging, it is only natural for him to assume that it is acceptable behavior. Consequences for the Inappropriate DiggingFinish the sentence:Name 3 strategies you can use for inappropriate digging:Shaker CanSquirt of WaterShriek AlarmConsistency in Dealing with diggingFinish the sentence:Name 7 types of digging behavior:BoredomCoolingEscapeGeneticBurying Toys and BonesHuntingSeparation AnxietyThe first step in dealing with digging is understanding that often digging is really not the problem at all -- it is the symptom. Name 3 reasons why a dog may have a problem with digging?The dog is bored and needs alternative things to do.The dog associates negative things with the backyard and needs to make a positive association with the backyard.The dog does not get enough exercise.Boredom DiggingFinish the sentence:Dogs dig because they have a certain amount of energy to expend each day.The more of the dog’s energy the owner can use for acceptable activities, the less the dog has left over to dig. Aside from giving the dog fair amounts of exercise, you should also advise your clients to make certain that their dog is eating a high-quality kibble. Most dogs select one or two favorite digging spots in the yard. The owner will need to make these spots undesirable. Digging for CoolingFinish the sentence:A dog who digs to create cooling holes for himself typically will not stop unless something else is done to cool him off. There are several things owners can try, including making certain that there is some sort of patio cover under which the dog can lie for shade.The owners might consider shaving the dog or buying a doghouse for the dog to lie in to get out of the direct sun and heat. They might also consider having a small wading pool available for the dog to lie in. Digging to EscapeFinish the sentence:If owners help the dog make positive associations with the yard, they will help eliminate one of the major causes of digging.Genetic DiggingFinish the sentence:Remember that certain dogs have been bred to dig.What owners may need to look at when dealing with these types of dogs, in addition to an increased amount of physical and mental stimulation, is teaching the dogs where to dig and where not to dig. Burying Toys and BonesFinish the sentence:Other reasons that dogs dig can include what is called caching.Some dogs will bury bones or other objects and then dig them up later. Luckily, there are ways around this. These solutions can include making sure the dog has bigger toys, which are frequently larger than what most dogs will attempt to bury. Digging for HuntingFinish the sentence:One of the more difficult digging motivations to address is a dog digging for gophers or similar types of animals in the backyard.Owners are not likely to eliminate the problem until they eliminate the gophers. Digging due to Separation AnxietyFinish the sentence:You are more likely to be dealing with a separation anxiety issue if the owner comes back after only 15 to 20 minutes and the dog has already engaged in frantic digging, chewing inappropriate objects, scratching at the back gate, scratching at the back door and/or barking and howling. BoltingFinish the sentence:Bolting as a behavior in which the dog dashes in, out or across a restricted threshold (i.e., doorway, curb).The solution for bolting is typically teaching the dog where the boundary to the threshold is and then the rules at each threshold.There are several common boundaries that a dog owner will want the dog to be aware of and respect.The most important one is usually the front door. A dog bolting out the front door can run away and/or get hit by a car.Another important boundary is the street. Since most dogs owners want their dogs to accompany them in the yard, teaching the dog not to run in the street is an important step toward keeping him safe.Owners may also boundary train a dog to not enter certain areas or rooms of the house. ................
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