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GRADUATE HANDBOOK

611 Granite Spring Road

Yorktown Heights, NY 10598 914.245.4024 or 1.800.942.0149

  

TABLE OF CONTENTS:                                           Page

Brief History                                           3 

Facilities and Services                          3-4

Breeding and Puppy Programs            4-5

Student Services and Graduate               

    Support                                                 5

    Newsletter                                              5                                        

    Graduate Council                              5-6

    Making Presentations                         6

The Care and Feeding of a Guide

Dog                                                  6

Obedience                                          6

    The Rules of the House                    6-7

    Adjusting to a New Family                7

    Toys and Bones                                7-8

    Teaching Your Dog to Stay Alone      8

Feeding 8-9

    Treats                                                 9

    Water                                                 9

   “Park Time”                                        9-10

Health Concerns                                   10-24

    Choosing a Vet 10-12

Referrals 12-13

Annual Veterinary Visit 13

Vaccines and the Heartworm Test 13-15

Preventatives 15

Heartworm and Intestinal Worms 15

Fleas and Ticks 15-17

     Work & Health Reports               17      

Graduate Assistance Fund           17-18

Hockmeyer Veterinary Care Fund 18-19

Diets 18-19

Grooming 19-20

Bathing 20

Toothbrushing 20

Common Problems You May

Encounter 20-23

Diarrhea 20-21

Constipation 21

Vomiting 21-22

Chocolate Ingestion 22

Skin Masses 23

Allergies 23

 Working with Your Dog                      24-25

    Revolving Doors and Escalators      23-24

    Equipment Replacement                   24

    If Your Dog Becomes Lost               24-25

    Retirement                                        25-26

 Final Word                                           26

 Contact Information                            26

       Congratulations upon your graduation!  This Handbook is meant to serve as a reference tool, giving you background information about Guiding Eyes and its facilities and services, as well as pointers about living with and caring for your new guide dog.  We hope you'll keep it handy--and share it with others who may be interested in our programs.

BRIEF HISTORY

 

      Guiding Eyes for the Blind was founded by Donald Z. Kauth in 1954.  Our first graduates, in May 1956, were the McKnight brothers, George and Ellsworth.  Since that time, more than 8,000 guide dog teams have successfully completed the Guiding Eyes training program.

 

FACILITIES AND SERVICES

 

      In the School's early years, our classes consisted of up to 6 students and there were only a few classes a year.  In March 1958, a building expansion program was initiated to allow for a class of 12 students each month and we grew to 11 classes a year. 

 

      In the fall of 1969, construction began on a new kennel and training facility; these improvements were in operation by 1972.  Two years later, a new student dormitory--ten rooms specifically designed for the safety and comfort of blind students and their guide dogs--was completed.  The Peter Campbell Lounge, named in memory of our first Director of Student Services and founder of the Graduate Council, was dedicated on October 9, 1977.  In 2007, we began undergoing extensive remodeling and construction to meet our growing needs.  This has resulted in upgraded facilities for dogs and students.  The renovations have included single dorm rooms for students, an exercise room, an assistive technology room and a large multi-purpose room for graduations and student use.

 

      As the training facilities have expanded, Guiding Eyes has also expanded its services.  A program of follow-up instruction was first introduced in the early 1960s.  In 1989, this service was augmented to include more systematic field visits by instructors to graduates' homes.

 

      Guiding Eyes' Home Training Program was initiated in 1987.  This is a service for graduates who are unable to return to the School for training with a replacement guide dog. 

 

      That same year, a new veterinary hospital was completed. The Isaacson Veterinary Hospital, located next to the kennel building, provides state-of-the-art health care for all the puppies and dogs in the Guiding Eyes program.  The Student Health Service, staffed by registered nurses, was started in 1988 to assist students in training with day-to-day health needs. 

 

      In 1990 the Guiding Eyes Special Needs program was implemented. The first of its kind in the US, our Special Needs program provides guide dogs for students who are blind and have additional challenges for which the dog may need to accommodate.

 

      In 2003 we launched our ACTION program, which provides returning guide dog students with 10 days of residential training followed by 5 days of instruction in their home areas.

 

BREEDING AND PUPPY PROGRAMS

 

      When Guiding Eyes began, all of our dogs were obtained from outside sources.  By 1958, local 4-H clubs had started providing foster homes for puppies donated to Guiding Eyes.  Our Breeding Program was inaugurated in 1966, when we began placing the first puppies from our own breeding program into puppy raisers' homes.  On May 16, 1981, our modern, spacious Breeding Center in Patterson, New York, was dedicated.  A number of renovations to the Center were completed in 1992, including a new kennel for whelping pups and a refurbished kennel for our breeding dogs.

 

      By 1992, we were placing approximately 500 puppies each year in the homes of volunteers up and down the East Coast, from Maine to North Carolina.  More than 90 percent of these puppies come directly from our breeding program.  Puppies are carefully monitored during the 12 to 15 months they spend in the raisers' homes.  (Each family is given a puppy raising manual explaining how best to care for its future guide dog.)  Experienced volunteer supervisors, called Regional Coordinators, oversee the puppies in various locales.  They provide socialization/obedience classes and monitor the raisers' progress.  Puppy evaluators, who are qualified Guiding Eyes staff members, see each puppy every three months to be certain that all of these valuable young dogs are being nurtured properly.  

 

      Detailed records on health, temperament and working ability are kept, from birth until death, on all dogs produced--and breeding decisions are based on this data.  Our goal is to breed dogs of excellent health and strength with the temperaments best suited to guide dog work.

 

STUDENT SERVICES

AND GRADUATE SUPPORT

 

      The Student Services and Graduate Support department, opened in 1979, provides a number of direct services for our graduates.  Two major projects of this office are the graduate newsletter and assistance by the Graduate Council.

 

Newsletter

 

      Graduates can keep abreast of what's going on at Guiding Eyes by receiving our newsletter, published two times a year and available on CD, in Braille, large print or email.  It is also on our website at . Topics include messages from our President, our Director of Training, our veterinarians and members of our staff.  News from our graduates is also published in each newsletter.  All graduates are placed on the mailing list following graduation.   

 

Graduate Council

 

      The Graduate Council acts as an advisory committee to Guiding Eyes for the Blind.  It is composed of representatives of the graduate body who are dedicated to maintaining and improving the high quality of service that Guiding Eyes provides.  Over the years, the Council has given the School a number of valuable suggestions for its training program.  Members of the Council play an active role in maintaining good communication between Guiding Eyes staff, students and graduates; they also provide peer support.  Members serve on the Council for three-year terms.

      Please contact the Manager of Graduate Support at 1-800-942-0149 if 1) you are not currently receiving the newsletter in the medium of your choice or 2) you are interested in serving on the Graduate Council.

 

Making Presentations

 

      You may be asked to speak about your guide dog and/or your experiences as a person who’s blind or visually impaired. School groups, scouts, civic groups and service organizations often look for speakers on various topics. You are not in any way required to do this, but if it is something you enjoy or are comfortable with we will be happy to provide any support you need, including materials you may hand out during your presentation.

 

THE CARE AND FEEDING

OF A GUIDE DOG

 

      Here are a few reminders, to help you reinforce the skills you learned during your training and to help you keep your dog clean, healthy and happy.

 

Obedience

 

      Do obedience exercises at least once a day and vary the places in which you do the obedience exercise.  A well-mannered guide dog will be welcome everywhere.

 

The Rules of the House

 

      When you return home after training, immediately resume the same methods of handling your dog that you used at Guiding Eyes.  That means:

 

      For the first two weeks, keep your dog on leash or on tie-down at all times;

 

      Follow a regular feeding, watering and relieving schedule;

 

      Keep your dog with you on leash, and introduce him or her to all areas of your home.

           

      When the dog has a well-established relieving pattern, give him or her brief periods of freedom in the house.  At first simply encourage him or her to follow you around the house off leash.  Monitor the dog closely and correct any signs of misbehavior. 

 

      We urge you to consider the following guidelines as absolute MINIMUM time periods:

  

      Two weeks of staying with you on leash at all times;

 

      Two weeks of brief periods off leash while you monitor behavior closely;

 

      Two weeks of gradually increasing time off leash.

 

Adjusting to a New Family

 

      It is critical that you, the guide dog user, take full responsibility for your dog's care: feeding, relieving, grooming, discipline, exercise and play. 

 

      During this time, your dog should develop a quiet, friendly relationship with the other members of your household.  It is perfectly acceptable for them to greet and pet your dog while you have him or her on leash and under control.

 

      Graduates with small children usually find that it is virtually impossible for the children to leave the new dog alone.  Be patient & persistent with the ground rules you set. 

 

      After your dog has adjusted to his or her new surroundings and the new routine, it is a good idea to teach your family to care for your dog in the event you are unable to do so.  Show the responsible members of your household how to feed your dog, relieve him or her, keep your dog on schedule, and maintain good behavior with on leash obedience.  This does not mean that you delegate these responsibilities to others -- only that they will know how to take over if you become ill or must be away from home for some reason. 

 

      Under no circumstances should your guide dog become the center of family recreation.  Quiet, controlled play time is strictly for you and your dog.

 

Toys and Bones

 

      If you wish to give your dog toys or bones to chew on, it is important to select the proper type.  It is also necessary to supervise your dog while he or she has them.

 

      Many dogs chew bones or toys very aggressively, to the extent that even the hardest bones are destroyed--and often swallowed--very quickly.  If this is the case, it may be necessary to replace them frequently.  Other dogs are relatively gentle with their chew-toys and rarely even damage them. 

 

      We suggest that you:

 

      Avoid soft, hollow toys such as those on sale in the pet departments of grocery stores.

 

      Avoid any toy with a noise-making device in it, such as a whistle, squeaker or bell.

 

      Avoid leather or rawhide toys.  They soften very quickly when wetted with saliva and are easily eaten. 

 

      Guiding Eyes recommends:

 

      Hard nylon bones and hard rubber (Cressite) toys.

 

Teaching Your Dog to Stay Alone

 

      Repeat the exercise you learned in class to teach your dog to stay quietly and calmly at home, in your office, or other places where you may need to leave your dog.  Give your dog a few days to feel comfortable in any new place; then begin by leaving him or her alone for just a few seconds; gradually increase the time by doubling it for three or four periods each day.

 

Feeding

 

      Choose a good, nationally advertised commercial dog food and stay with it.  Avoid generic and house-brand dog foods--and avoid feeding table scraps.  Dietary vitamin supplements are unnecessary.

While at Guiding Eyes, your dog's daily diet was between 1.5 and 2 cups of dog food twice a day. As your dog matures and settles into its new home, he or she will probably need less food. Run your hands over your dog's rib cage. If you can feel the individual ribs while applying mild pressure with your fingertips, your dog's weight is probably adequate. If you cannot feel individual ribs while applying mild pressure to the rib cage, your dog's weight is probably excessive. Your dog's goal weight can be found on your GEB issued health certificate, or you can call the veterinary or training department to obtain it. Please keep your dog's weight within 2 to 3 pounds of the goal weight. Check your dog's weight regularly and adjust the food accordingly. Crash diets are not good for your dog. Consult your veterinarian for advice on weight control. Remember that weight control is vitally important for the long term health of your dog. An overweight dog is a dog that runs a greater risk of debilitating health problems.

Treats

All dog treats are dog food pressed into interesting shapes. Many are coated with fats to make them more appealing. It is not necessary to give your dog treats, and all dogs are healthier without them. If you must give a treat, a raw carrot is an excellent choice. Carrots are inexpensive and not as fattening as treats made for dogs. As an alternative, you can use 3 to 4 kibbles taken out of your dog's daily ration of food as a treat. When you measure out the dog food in the morning, remove a number of kibbles from the bowl and place them in a "treat" bag. You may use these as treats during that day. Do not take additional kibbles from the dog food bag to use as treats. In this way, you are consistently feeding the same amount of food each day without adding in additional calories. A treat for your dog two or three times a week is more than sufficient. All treats add calories to the dog's diet.

 

Water

 

      Offer your dog water several times a day, but do not allow him or her to drink excessively just before being confined for a long period.  Your dog's need for water will vary a great deal depending upon temperature, humidity and exercise.  If you choose to leave water available all day, change and rinse the bowl two or three times each day--and thoroughly wash and dry it at least once each day.  It is best to offer your dog water three to four times daily, giving the dog as much as he or she wants to drink at those times.  In this way, you will know how much your dog usually drinks and will be aware if the dog suddenly begins drinking much more or much less than is usual.  Do not allow the dog to drink more than one or two cups of water immediately after heavy exercise on a hot day.  Allow approximately 30 minutes of "cool down time" before offering more water.

 

"Park Time"

 

      Establish a consistent schedule for your dog's relieving needs as soon as you get home -- at least four times each day -- in an area relatively free of distractions and hazards.  Be a responsible caretaker and clean up after your dog, especially if you relieve him or her in an area where the general public passes.

HEALTH CONCERNS

Choosing a Vet

There are a number of ways to choose a veterinarian. Certainly, one important criterion for the guide dog user is the location of the veterinary office. Do you have adequate transportation to get there? Is it on a public transportation route? Is it within walking distance?

Once you are sure that there are some hospitals that you can reach, the best thing to do is to ask pet-owning neighbors or friends who live in the area which hospital they use and their opinion of not only the veterinarians, but also the support staff and the facility itself. You will be looking for a clean, odor-free facility that is well maintained and modern. They should have business hours at least 6 days a week, and have plans for emergency coverage when they are closed. This might mean that the veterinarians handle their own emergency calls, share emergency coverage with other veterinary hospitals in the area, or refer to a local emergency clinic. Cost of services may also be an issue, but most hospitals in an area have similar charges. What you may want to inquire about is if they offer a discount for working dogs. While many hospitals don’t, there are quite a few that do, or will give a discount if asked, so don’t be afraid to inquire.

Finally, and probably most importantly, you will have to meet the veterinarian and see if they are personable and easy to talk to and understand. Finding a vet that you can personally connect with is usually the most common reason why a person chooses a particular practice. Don’t be afraid to switch to a different vet if after one or two visits, you find that you are not comfortable at a particular hospital. You must be comfortable with the vet you have chosen. If you are questioning many of your vet’s decisions, that means that you are already not confident that your vet has your dog’s best interest in mind, or that your vet is not knowledgeable enough in regards to the problem you are seeking help for. Therefore, having a long-term relationship with your vet will help you to feel that his or her recommendations are appropriate for your dog.

How can you feel confident that the recommendations you are getting from your veterinarian are accurate? First, you have to be an informed consumer. That means asking a lot of questions until you fully understand what is being suggested. Don’t forget to ask what other options there are. Sometimes, vets may not mention all of the options because they are afraid to recommend the most expensive of the choices. They might feel that you would not be likely to choose the most expensive choice, even if it is the best treatment available. However, it is not the veterinarian’s role to decide what you can and cannot afford. That is your decision to make. As veterinarians, we are responsible for telling you about EVERY option, regardless of the cost, so that you can make an informed decision. If there are other options, ask why your vet does not feel they are the best choice, and what possible complications might be associated with each choice. Also ask what the success rate for each option would be expected to be. Ask your vet if they have ever treated this condition or performed this surgery. Ask if treatment by a specialist would be a better choice and offer a better outcome.

Another way to be an informed consumer is to request a second opinion. Veterinarians should not be offended by a client going for a second opinion. This is a normal step that people take in both human and veterinary medicine. A second opinion should be obtained from a veterinarian outside the practice you normally go to. Often, vets in multi-vet practices have the same opinions on procedures, so you may not get a truly independent evaluation of your dog’s condition. If the opinion from the second vet matches that of your regular vet, you should return to your regular vet for the care. A second opinion vet should also ethically send you back to your regular vet for care so as not appear to be “stealing” clients.

What if the second opinion is the opposite of the first opinion? Well, you have two choices. The first is to go back to your regular vet and tell them that you received a second opinion that was different from theirs, and ask them to explain whether they agree or disagree and why. Your second option, which is more expensive and time consuming, is to get a third opinion, which is likely to agree with one of the first two, which will in turn make you more comfortable in making a choice.

When getting a second opinion, you have the toughest job. Your job is to be unbiased so that you can make the correct choice for your dog. What is meant by unbiased? Well, we all have our own opinions about things and our own fears, and so these opinions and fears can influence which choice you make. For instance, suppose that you are fearful of surgery for your dog, and your vet is recommending surgery to treat your dog’s condition. Since you are afraid of surgery, you decide to seek a second opinion, hoping that you don’t have to do surgery. The second vet tells you that surgery is needed, but you are still afraid, so you go to a third vet who tells you that there may be something other than surgery and you say, “I knew surgery wasn’t needed!” and you proceed with the recommendations of the third vet. Those recommendations may not be the best choice for your dog, but because you were unwilling to put your fears aside, you searched for the answer you wanted to hear, rather than hear what was best for your dog. Beware of deciding what you want to hear and trying to find someone to agree with you rather than hearing what the best treatment choice for your dog is.

Finally, you can educate yourself about choices and conditions by checking books and the Internet, but be extra careful here. There is often more misinformation on the Internet than there is accurate information, and much of what is posted on the Internet may not come from knowledgeable sources. ANYONE can post information on the Internet and make it look official by attaching a doctor’s name to it, and anyone can attest that “my friend’s dog took that pill and it solved the problem”. Just because it is written does not make it true or even safe, so beware!

Referrals

What should you do when your dog is ill and your veterinarian has run tests and performed examinations and has been unable to tell you what is wrong? Or, what if your vet has diagnosed a problem that has not responded to treatment, and you return to the vet and a second type of treatment is prescribed but that one does not work either? In either case, you can certainly continue to see your vet for more help, but sometimes having a second person examine your dog and look at things with a fresh outlook is a better option.

Asking your vet for a referral to another veterinarian is a common practice today. Many people are concerned that this might damage their relationship with their veterinarian, or that the veterinarian will resent them for wanting a second opinion. This should not be the case. Any good veterinarian should willingly refer you to another veterinarian without feeling “betrayed”. In fact, a great veterinarian will refer you to another vet before you even have to ask!

The next question would be who to be referred to? For many problems, just having a second “general practitioner” veterinarian take a look would be sufficient. However, for certain medical conditions, it would be best to have a specialist examine your dog. Many people are unaware that there are specialists in the veterinary field. These veterinarians have had internships and residencies in their specialized field of study just like human specialists. They must then become board certified by passing a thorough examination. There are veterinary specialists in Dermatology (skin and allergy disorders), Cardiology (heart disorders), Ophthalmology (eye disorders), Neurology (nervous system disorders), Radiology and Ultrasonography (performing and interpreting x-rays and sonograms), Dentistry (disorders of the teeth and mouth), Surgery, Oncology (treatment of cancers) and Internal Medicine (disorders of the internal organs). Specialists in most of these fields can be found in most areas of the country. Your veterinarian should be able to provide you with the name and phone number of the closest specialists for your dog’s particular ailment. In most cases, once you have seen the specialist, they will devise a treatment plan and contact your veterinarian to let them know what was found and what was recommended. Ultimately, you return to your regular veterinarian for follow up care, with a possible follow-up visit back to the specialist at some point in the future.

Annual Veterinary Visit

A visit to your veterinarian is recommended once a year, and sometimes more frequently as your dog gets older. These visits are important because problems can be detected early on that may eventually impact your dog’s ability to work. Early detection also means a better chance at successful treatment or cure.

As part of an annual visit, many vets still request that you bring a stool sample from that day with you. This sample is used to test for intestinal worms, such as roundworms, hookworms, whipworms and tapeworms. These parasites can cause intermittent diarrhea in the adult dog, and medications are available to clear these parasites from your dog should they be found. In fact, monthly medication for heartworm prevention (see the section on heartworm preventatives below) also prevents many of these intestinal worms. As a result, for dogs that are on this medication year round, a yearly stool sample may no longer be necessary. Check with your vet for their advice.

Vaccines and the Heartworm Test

There are a number of vaccines that may be given during your dog’s annual exam. The first vaccine goes by many different names. Your vet may call it a 4-in-1 or 5-in-1 vaccine, or it may be called a Distemper vaccine, a Parvo vaccine, a booster vaccine, or it may go by the initials DHLP or DHLPP. Regardless of what your vet calls it, it is essentially the same wherever you live. It protects your dog against a number of viruses, including Distemper, Parvo, Hepatitis and an influenza type virus, as well as a bacterium called Leptospirosis. In some areas of the country, Leptospirosis has become a significant problem for dogs, and so your veterinarian may give a separate vaccine for this disease which protects your dog against a number of different “strains” of the bacteria.

Recent studies have shown that the DHLPP vaccine is effective for longer than one year. Guiding Eyes for the Blind recommends that this vaccine be given only every three years or more, instead of annually. Nevertheless, there are many veterinarians that are reluctant to change their recommendations at this time and continue to give this vaccine once a year. The Guiding Eyes veterinary staff has put together a letter addressed to your veterinarian that explains our recommendation for this vaccine and provides references for your veterinarian on this subject. Please contact the veterinary department to obtain this letter or to ask us to send it to your vet.

The second vaccine that may be given to your dog during his or her annual exam is for Rabies. This is a virus that infects all warm blooded animals and is very deadly. Wild animals, such as raccoons, foxes, and bats commonly carry the virus. Protecting your dog from it also protects you, since people can get rabies from their dog or cat after the dog or cat has been in contact with a wild animal. The vaccine is licensed and effective for a full three years. However, every state sets its own laws in regards to the frequency of rabies vaccinations for dogs. Some states require this vaccine every year, while others require it to be given every two or three years. Your vet will be able to tell you what the local laws are. Although your dog may have been given a Rabies vaccine licensed for 3 years, there is no harm to your dog in receiving a vaccine every year.

The last vaccine that you should get for your dog is for Lyme disease, which is spread by a small tick called a deer tick. This disease is common in many parts of the country, and appears to spreading to other areas. This disease typically causes joint pain, lameness and fever, but can also rarely cause a type of kidney failure, so vaccination is recommended. The Lyme disease vaccine needs to be given annually.

Another vaccine that you may hear about is for Kennel Cough, also known as Bordetella. This is primarily for dogs that will be kept in a kennel environment. Your dogs were vaccinated for Kennel Cough while they were at Guiding Eyes, but they should not need the vaccine once you leave here unless they will be kenneled.

Finally, as part of the annual veterinary visit, a blood sample should be taken to screen your dog for heartworm disease. This is a parasite that is spread by mosquitoes and can cause severe damage to the heart and lungs, and even cause death. Dogs should be on a monthly preventative medication (see the section below on preventatives) to keep them from getting this disease. Guiding Eyes recommends that the blood test is performed every year. There are a few veterinarians that recommend the test every two years, which is acceptable. This test should be performed yearly even if your dog is on a good preventative all year round.

Many veterinarians perform the annual heartworm test in their office with a special test that checks not only for heartworm disease, but also checks for three tick-borne diseases. Lyme disease, Ehrlichiosis, and Anaplasmosis are all spread by ticks, and dogs can have one, two or all three diseases. Should your vet perform the in-office test for these diseases and find a positive result, they may advise treatment for them with an appropriate antibiotic and follow-up blood test. If you have questions or concerns about this 4 way test for heartworm, Lyme disease, Ehrlichiosis and Anaplasmosis, please call the Guiding Eyes veterinary department.

Preventatives

Heartworm and Intestinal Worms

Heartworm is a parasite that is spread by mosquitoes and can cause severe damage to the heart and lungs, and even cause death. Dogs should be on a monthly preventative medication (see the section above on vaccines and the heartworm test) to keep them from getting this disease. There are a number of brands of monthly heartworm prevention, the most common being Heartgard, Interceptor, and Iverheart. All are equally effective at preventing infection with heartworm after a mosquito bite. All dogs should remain on one of these preventatives all year round, regardless of where you live. All are chewable, so they are easy to administer, and all are safe. We presently use and recommend Heartgard. All three products also work to prevent infection with some of the intestinal parasites mentioned above in the section on your annual veterinary visit and the need for a stool sample.

Your dog is presently on a schedule where they receive their heartworm preventative on the first of every month. Should you forget to give the medication on the first, you generally have a 7 -10 day grace period where the medication will still be effective. If you forget for longer than that period, please contact your veterinarian for advice.

Fleas and Ticks

There are now many products available to prevent flea and tick problems.

One product we recommend is Frontline. This is a topical, once a month flea and tick preventative. It comes in a package of three or six tubes. Every month, you will squeeze the contents of one tube onto the skin between the shoulders. It must be applied to the skin, not the coat, so you must part the fur and apply it to the skin. This product works for one full month to kill adult fleas and ticks. While Frontline kills fleas rapidly, it may take up to 48 hours to kill a tick, so it is not unusual to find a tick on a dog that is on Frontline. It is likely that the tick that you find will be dead within a few hours. All animals in the house don’t have to be on Frontline for it to work, but it is recommended that all are on a preventative in order to keep your home from becoming infested with fleas. Frontline is waterproof, so it will not wash off if you bathe your dog or if they work in the rain or swim. However, because of the way it spreads over the whole body after you first put it on, you should avoid bathing your dog within 2 days before or 2 days after applying Frontline so that it has a chance to spread over the body. After that period, you may bathe your dog as often as needed.

Another excellent product that we recommend is Vectra 3D. It comes packaged the same way as Frontline and also is applied similarly to the skin, but it is advised to apply a third of the tube to the skin between the shoulders, a third of the tube to the skin in the middle of the back, and the final third to the skin on the rump near the base of the tail. Like Frontline, it is waterproof and lasts one month per application.

A similar product on the market is Advantage, which is a once a month topical liquid for fleas only, and Advantix, which is effective against fleas and ticks. Both products are also mosquito repellents, but this is not needed for dogs that are on heartworm prevention.

Flea collars are not a very effective method of flea and tick prevention. I do not recommend them. However, you can put a piece of a new flea collar in a new vacuum bag to kill any fleas or larva that you might vacuum up in your home. This is probably the only good use for a flea collar, since they are typically very ineffective at keeping fleas off your dog. Ultrasonic flea collars are also useless no matter what people may tell you and in fact, dogs may hear the sound coming out of them.

Also, you will hear about many home remedies for keeping fleas off your dog. Things such as brewers yeast, garlic, or onions added to the food will not get rid of fleas no matter what people might tell you. Avon's Skin-So-Soft is also mentioned frequently but this is not approved for animals, it is greasy, expensive and has also caused severe reactions in some dogs.

Health and Work Reports

In order for Guiding Eyes to continue to provide you with the most comprehensive follow-up services for both veterinary and training issues, we ask you to send us an annual “Health and Work Report”. This form is your chance to let us know how your dog is performing for you. We use this information to help you get the most out of your dog’s abilities and to help you solve any problems that may arise. We also value the information you provide to us as it helps us to identify health issues that we can attempt to breed out of our future guide dogs. Of course, we also encourage you to call us whenever any problems develop rather than waiting to report them to us once a year.

You must send in a completed Health and Work Report Form by July 1. If you can confirm your dog’s weight is within 10 pounds above or below of its target weight you will receive a $100 bonus towards the Graduate Assistance Fund. If you have had your guide dog less than one year from when you would submit the form, you don’t need to send one…but you do need to confirm your dog’s weight taken within 6 months of July 1st to receive the $100 incentive. If you need a copy of the Health and Work Report form, please call 914-245-4024 or toll free 800-942-0149. You can also access the form on our website once you have registered as a Graduate.

The Graduate Assistance Fund

The Wanda Horowitz Graduate Assistance Fund provides you with $200 each calendar year for the health care of your dog. Maintaining a normal body weight for your dog can have a significant impact on your dog’s health and ability to work. As an incentive for you to keep your dog’s weight at or near his or her target weight, we are offering a $100 bonus to be added to your Graduate Assistance Fund. To qualify for the bonus, you need to keep your dog’s weight no more than 10 pounds from the target weight as set by the GEB veterinary department. You will need to send in a Health and Work Report on or before July 1, along with proof of your dog’s last weight, taken within 6 months of submission of the Health and Work Report. If you are a recent graduate, you don’t have to send in the Health and Work Report form, but you must confirm the dog’s weight. As an alternative, if you have had a recent visit from a member of our Training Department within 6 months of submitting the Health and Work Report, that staff member can confirm your dog’s present weight. Proof of your dog’s weight within the last 6 months can include an invoice from your last veterinary visit where the weight is clearly stated by your veterinarian, a copy of your dog’s medical record where the weight is recorded by your vet, or you may supply us with your vet’s phone number to confirm your dog’s weight by phone.

The $300 from the Graduate Assistance Fund can be used for any veterinary expenses you incur during that calendar year. This includes examinations, laboratory tests, prescriptions and veterinary products. It cannot be used for boarding or grooming services. If you have never used the fund before, there is a form letter that we can send you that you would present to your veterinarian, which explains how the fund works. We ask that your vet submits all bills, up to $300, directly to us and we will pay them directly. It is not necessary for you to give your vet a new letter every year, unless you switch vets. If you need a letter for your vet, contact the veterinary department administrator (extension 2258) and she will be happy to get one out to you. The amount of this stipend may increase in future years, so be sure to listen to our newsletters for additional information.

Hockmeyer Veterinary Care Fund

In addition to the Graduate Assistance Fund, we also have a fund to provide financial assistance to graduates whose guide dogs are referred to a veterinary specialist by their regular veterinarian. This fund can provide financial support for veterinary specialist fees that exceed the $300 annual support currently provided through the Graduate Assistance Fund.

The fund was established by Mary and Wayne Hockmeyer, adopters of a Guiding Eyes puppy. The Hockmeyers care deeply about dogs and want to help ensure that your Guiding Eyes dog receives the medical care it needs.

Graduates seeking financial assistance for visits to, or treatments by, veterinary specialists in areas such as orthopedics, ophthalmology, dermatology, neurology, or cardiology, should contact Dr. Sandler directly for details and information regarding their eligibility for this financial assistance. To qualify, contact must be made before any visit to a specialist, unless it is deemed an emergency.

We are proud to be able to add this fund to our resources designed to safeguard the health of your Guiding Eyes dog.

Diets

There are many brands of dog food available at both grocery stores and specialty pet stores. You should attempt to feed a name brand food, such as Purina, Alpo, Pedigree, Cycle, Iams, Eukanuba and Science Diet. These “name brands” have strict quality control and the ingredients and nutritional levels are the same from bag to bag. Smaller brands and generic store brands often have poor quality ingredients (and are therefore much less expensive) and can vary from bag to bag. Feeding these generic foods can lead to serious nutritional deficiencies. If possible, look for a food that has a seal or statement of approval from an organization called AAFCO. This group is made up of animal nutritionists and they certify that a particular food has undergone testing and analysis and was found to be a well balanced diet made of quality ingredients.

You should not look for a diet that is labeled for working dogs or one that is labeled as higher protein. These diets predispose dogs to obesity. You should look for a general “maintenance” diet or a “light” formulation. Most adult Labradors, Goldens and Shepherds only need about 1 ½ measuring cups of food twice a day, regardless of the brand.

Obesity is the most common disease of dogs today. Obesity is a disease caused by the guide dog owner, so if your dog is overweight, the fault lies with you! Dogs become overweight and obese as a result of being fed too much food each day, and/or being fed snacks on a daily basis. Needless to say, any table food is strictly forbidden. Anything given to your dog other than their correct daily amount of food is extra calories, and these extra calories become fat on your dog’s body. Even one snack a day can lead to obesity.

In order to avoid weight issues for your dog, you must start by feeding the correct amount of food. As already mentioned, for most guide dogs, that will be around 1 ½ cups of food twice a day, with some minor variation based upon the brand of food, your dog’s metabolism, and your dog’s level of exercise. For most guide dogs, the average daily routes that they travel do not require them to have more food than the above-mentioned amount.

Monitor your dog’s weight closely. You should not have to adjust the harness buckle during your dog’s working life. If you do, this is likely to be the first sign that your dog has gained weight. Also, occasionally run your hands over your dog's rib cage. If you can feel the individual ribs while applying mild pressure with your fingertips, your dog's weight is probably adequate. If you cannot feel individual ribs while applying mild pressure to the rib cage, your dog's weight is probably excessive. Your dog's target weight can be found on your GEB issued health certificate, or you can call the veterinary or training department to obtain it. Please keep your dog's weight within 2 to 3 pounds of the target weight. Check your dog's weight regularly and adjust the food accordingly.

Grooming

Grooming your dog regularly serves many purposes. Using a good brush or undercoat rake helps to remove dirt and debris from the coat. It also removes “dead” fur and dead skin cells and flakes. It will also stimulate the skin to keep it healthy. Brushing your dog can also help to identify flea or tick problems. In addition to the medical benefits, you and your dog will benefit from the emotional bond that develops and strengthens with this interaction. And besides, your dog will love it! Please groom your dog on a daily basis.

Bathing

Most dogs are able to keep themselves clean by licking their coats. If you are grooming your dog regularly, you are unlikely to have to bathe your dog frequently. Unless your dog rolls in something, you probably shouldn’t need to bathe your dog more than once every 3 months. Since some people are more sensitive to normal dog odor than others, you may feel the need to bathe more frequently. Try not to bathe your dog more often than once every 4 to 6 weeks, unless instructed by your vet for a skin condition.

For general bathing, you should purchase a nice smelling pet shampoo from a pet store or vet office. In a pinch, you could also use Johnson’s Baby Shampoo. Do not use human dandruff shampoos on dogs.

Toothbrushing

Most dogs will develop tartar build-up on their teeth as time goes by. There are a lucky few that seem to never have tartar build up on their teeth. The amount of tartar that develops is unrelated to eating crunchy or hard foods. There is no preventative for dental disease other than routine brushing. Please use only a dog toothbrush or thimble brush, and dog toothpaste. Do not use human toothpaste. If you are unfamiliar with how to brush your dog’s teeth, please ask your veterinarian to demonstrate.

Common Problems You May Encounter

Diarrhea

Diarrhea is likely to be the most common problem that you will encounter. While there are many causes for diarrhea, the most common reason is called dietary indiscretion. This is when your dog eats food or non-food items that they should not. Table food, cat food, treats, twigs, wood chips, small stones and gravel, leaves and so on, all have the ability to cause diarrhea. It is not uncommon for a dog with diarrhea to have a small amount of blood in the liquid stool.

It is not necessary to go to the vet if your dog has diarrhea unless it is accompanied by lethargy, fever, lack of appetite, excessive amounts of blood, or if the diarrhea does not resolve within 3 days. Most dogs with diarrhea remain active, guide well, and have a great appetite.

To treat these uncomplicated cases of diarrhea at home, you should first skip your dog’s next meal, so that they will not have eaten anything for 24 hours. You would then begin feeding a “bland” diet, which can be cooked at home, or can be obtained in a prescription diet food from your veterinarian. During this period, you will not give your dog any regular dog food or snacks. To cook a bland diet at home, all ingredients must be BOILED in water. No other cooking method is acceptable. You may boil a boneless chicken breast or ground beef for 20 minutes, and then drain all of the water and fat away. You should also boil white rice or peeled potatoes. Mix one of the meats with one of the starches in equal quantities (the chicken and the rice, for instance). Feed one cup of this mixture twice a day until the stool is normal for at least one to two days. Then you may begin to mix the regular dog food kibble back in with the bland diet in a 50-50 mix for a day or two. If the stool remains normal, mix larger quantities of the dog food and smaller quantities of the bland food for another 1 to 2 days before returning all the way to the regular dog food. Since this process takes a few days to complete, it is acceptable to cook larger quantities of the bland food and keep it in the refrigerator, warming individual portions as you need them.

Constipation

Constipation is extremely rare in guide dogs. Please call the vets at Guiding Eyes for the Blind if you think that your dog is constipated.

Vomiting

As with diarrhea, the most common cause for vomiting is dietary indiscretion. Anything that is not intended to be edible can cause enough irritation when ingested to lead to vomiting. Human food is another common cause for vomiting in dogs. If vomiting persists for more than 4 to 5 hours, you should see your vet. If vomiting ceases within this time frame, you should withhold all food and water until there is no further vomiting for at least 3 hours. Then, you may begin to offer very small amounts (1/4 cup) of water every hour as long as vomiting does not resume. Your dog may not want to drink immediately, but eventually they will begin to drink. You should not offer food for at least 12 hours after vomiting ends. After this point, you may begin with the bland diet described above in the section on diarrhea. You should once again, only offer ¼ cup of food at any time, and then wait for an hour or so to be sure vomiting does not occur again. After a few hours, you may begin increasing the quantity of food and water that you offer at any one time until you are back to normal amounts the following day. If all is still well, you can then slowly mix regular dog food back in with the bland food over a one to two day period. If at any point vomiting resumes, withhold food and water again for a few hours and start again with small quantities of water.

If your dog should develop such severe vomiting that they are retching every minute and their stomach begins to distend, you should seek emergency care as quickly as possible.

Chocolate Ingestion

Chocolate can be very toxic to dogs and cats in high enough quantities. It is a common problem to find dogs ingesting various amounts of chocolate during the December holiday season and Easter. If your dog gets into chocolate, you may notice any number of symptoms. The most common, which results from a smaller amount of chocolate, is vomiting and diarrhea. As dogs ingest more chocolate, other symptoms such as increased urination, weakness, hyperexcitability, muscle tremors, and even seizures and death can occur. Of course, this would occur with large quantities of chocolate. For a dog weighing 70 pounds, the following quantities of chocolate would be considered lethal, meaning that it could cause death. They are listed in order from least toxic to most toxic:

1. White chocolate- your dog would need to eat 12,000 to 38,000 ounces. Obviously, not very likely.

2. Milk chocolate- your dog would need to eat between 54 and 172 ounces. This is still a very large quantity and not very likely. Thank goodness, this is the most common type of chocolate.

3. Instant cocoa, dark chocolate and semisweet baking chocolate- your dog would need to eat 22 to 72 ounces.

4. Unsweetened baking chocolate- your dog would need to eat 7.6 to 24 ounces.

5. Unsweetened cocoa- this is the most toxic. Your dog would need to eat between 4 and 13 ounces.

As you can see, for some types of chocolate, it doesn’t take much. Thankfully, the most common type of chocolate that people eat and have in their homes is the milk chocolate variety, which will usually just cause diarrhea.

If your dog should ingest a large amount of chocolate or if you are unsure how much they may have eaten, you should consult with your veterinarian. Also, closely observe them for any signs of weakness, incoordination or seizure.

Skin Masses

Dogs can develop various lumps or bumps at any age, but they are most common in middle and older age. The majority of these masses turn out to be benign fatty lumps called lipomas, or dermal cysts. Your dog is unlikely to be bothered by these lumps and no treatment is necessary.

A small number of lumps can be more significant and in need of surgical removal. There is no way to tell which lumps are benign and which are potentially malignant just by look or feel. All lumps, regardless of how they feel should eventually be aspirated with a needle. This allows your vet to obtain a sample of the cells without surgery and have a pathologist look at them. In most cases, surgery can be avoided, but if the aspirate shows questionable cells, then surgical removal is indicated.

Allergies

Allergies are one of the most frustrating problems to manage. Some dogs can develop allergies as they age. A dog that is raised in New York and is healthy can have allergies to things that are found in another area of the country. Allergens can include pollens and mold spores that are breathed in or that come in contact with the skin, as well as natural and man-made objects that dogs come into contact with, such as carpeting, detergent, newsprint, floor cleaners, and many others. Food allergies can also play a role. It can be very difficult to identify all potential allergens that may be affecting a dog. Symptoms typically include itchiness, licking at the paws or under the tail, ear infections, and recurrent skin infections. While there is no cure for allergies, there are many treatments to help control the symptoms. Consult with your veterinarian for the best course of action, or call us here at Guiding Eyes.

WORKING WITH YOUR DOG

 

Revolving Doors and Escalators

 

      Whenever possible, use alternatives to these devices.  If that is not practical, follow the methods taught in class for negotiating them.  Remember that both revolving doors and escalators are potentially dangerous to your dog -- and it is your responsibility to protect your dog from being harmed.  You should never use automatic revolving doors with a guide dog; they are far too dangerous.  Only use manual doors.  Revolving doors that are very busy with a constant stream of pedestrian traffic should also be avoided if possible.  In revolving doors, use the command SIDE, allowing the dog to cross behind you and put the dog's nose close to the edge of the forward panel.  Your dog will then be in the proper position to enter the opening.  Locate the door where it meets the frame, there usually is a rubber strip at that location.  Begin to slowly push the door away from you and enter with your dog.  Try to stay inside the opening as close to the left as possible so that the dog can utilize the larger space.  Continue pushing through at a consistent pace until you feel the air in the open space.  Your dog will naturally begin to exit on its own as the opening becomes available.  Keep your right foot back to prevent the door from being pushed forward too rapidly. 

 

      On escalators, drop the harness before stepping on.  If there are any pedestrians in front of you, wait a moment before getting on to allow room between them and you.  Allow the dog to stand at your side on a completely loose leash.  Keep your left foot on the step ahead of you and place your right hand on the handrail. It should be well forward. As you feel the handrail and the step begin to level out, step forward with your right foot and begin to walk off the escalator, allowing your dog to step over the grid end on a COMPLETELY LOOSE LEASH.  Please do not attempt to work your dog on moving sidewalks like those commonly found in airports. These are dangerous to your dog, as you are not provided with enough information from the handrail as to when to exit the sidewalk. 

Equipment Replacement

If a piece of equipment needs replacing, please contact us and we will return your call within one to two business days.

  

We ask that you return any old equipment to us.  You can do this via Free Matter for the Blind.  Small pieces of hardware, such as a harness link, can easily be replaced at a local hardware store at very little cost.

 

Realize that if something breaks over the weekend or a holiday, we won’t be able to ship anything out until the next business day.

   

If Your Dog Becomes Lost 

 

Of course, we hope that this never happens.  But when those rare unfortunate occurrences do happen, don’t panic; there are steps you can take.  If you are with someone sighted, have them help you look.

 

      First check all doors and/or gates to see if they are open or shut.  Dogs usually don’t stray too far & may only have gone as far as your neighbor’s house. Call your dog and have some kibbles of food ready to give him when he returns.  Putting some kibbles of food in your dog’s food bowl & swirling it around so they make noise can often bring a dog right back to your side.

 

If your dog does not come to the food, you should get help immediately.  Contact your neighbors, your local police department, local radio station, & dog warden.  These agencies are usually very helpful.  You should also contact Guiding Eyes & apprise us of what is happening. 

 

Your dog will have ID tags on its collar & all GEB dogs have microchips called avid chips located between their shoulder blades.  These can be picked up by a scanner that most vet hospitals & shelters have.  A vet hospital or pound who has found the dog will get information from the Avid Company & from the ID tags.  GEB is often contacted because the ID tag has our phone # on it & many graduates prefer to leave the avid chip registered with GEB.  We can then assist in reuniting you with your dog. 

   

When your dog returns home, remember to contact everyone who has been helping you, so they are no longer searching. Also please remember to contact GEB.

 

Retirement

 

Making the transition from one dog to the next can be difficult.  Guiding Eyes understands this and we are here to support you.  If you feel that it may be approaching the time for your dog to retire, contact us and we will help you through the process.  There are several home options available for your dog once he/she retires.  You may want to keep the dog yourself as a pet or retire your dog with a family member or friend.  If these options are not for you, your dog’s puppy raiser may want the dog back.   Guiding Eyes also has a waiting list of people who have been specially screened waiting to adopt a retired guide dog into their lives.  Whatever your personal reasons for retirement are or become, please know that Guiding Eyes is here to support you in making these difficult decisions.  We are available for both phone and home consultations.  We are available to discuss all aspects of retirement, where, when, how, and what it will mean for both you and your dog.

 

A FINAL WORD

 

      Please remember that Guiding Eyes for the Blind has done its very best to prepare you and your dog to begin working together in your home and community environment.  Both you and your new companion will continue to learn about each other and adjust to each other for several months.  Be consistent in your expectations for your dog.

 

      If you have problems, doubts or questions, please do not hesitate to call or write for assistance.  Our training department, veterinary staff and entire organization will do everything within their power and resources to assure your ultimate success with your guide dog.         

 

GUIDING EYES FOR THE BLIND          

GRADUATE HANDBOOK

611 Granite Springs Road

Yorktown Heights, New York 10598

(914) 245-4024 or 1-800-942-0149



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