KEWA's Owner's Manual



Table of Contents

Introduction 5

KEWA Inventory 6

Cheat Sheets 10

Rules for Workers 10

Sail Rig Cheat Sheets 10

Departure/Dock Cheat Sheets 11

Returning to the Boat 11

Basic Cruise Prep 11

Extended Cruise Prep 12

Returning to Slip 12

Leaving the Boat (Short Term) 12

VHF Channels 14

NATO Phonetic Alphabet 15

Detailing 16

Exterior Washing 16

Teak 16

Wax/Polish 16

Mast/Boom 16

Bottom 16

Interior 16

Engine Room 17

Bilges 17

Sailing 18

Mainsail 18

Genoa 18

Jib 18

Staysail 18

Code Zero 18

Heavy Air Asymmetric 18

Light Air Asymmetric 18

Motoring 19

Mechanical 20

Yanmar 4LH-TE 105 HP Turbocharged Diesel Auxiliary 20

Fisher Panda Model 6 PMS Genset 20

Oil Changing 22

AquaDrive system 22

Gori Folding Propeller 22

Side Power 10 HP Bow Thruster 23

Electrical 24

Battery Capacity 24

Mastervolt Charger/Inverter (220v Inverter) 25

Mastervolt 110 Inverter 25

Balmar 65amp Alternator (24v) 25

24v Voltage Regulator 25

Batteries 26

Electronics 28

Autopilot: Robertson AP300X 28

Instruments 28

Radar: Anritsu 48 NM radar with repeater RA 771 UA 28

SSB: SGC Powertalk with SG230 Auto Antenna Tuner 28

GPS: Shipmate GN 30 DGPS Navigator 29

Inmarsat C & Mini-M: Thrane & Thrane C/Mini-M Combo Unit 29

VHF: Simrad RS 8300 VHF Transceiver with Remote 29

Loudhailer: Raytheon 430 29

Weatherfax: Furuno D-Fax 30

Ground Tackle, Anchoring & Docking 31

Windlass: Vertical Lofrans Progress 2 31

Primary Anchor: 75 lb. CQR 31

Secondary Anchor: 20KG Bruce 31

Third anchor: H35 Danforth 31

Mooring 31

Canvas and Cushions 32

Bimini 32

Cockpit Enclosure 32

Sun Awning 32

Cushions 32

Safety 33

ACR RapidFix 406 EPIRB with GPS Interface 33

Jacklines 33

Liferaft: Autoflug ALK2000R 6-Man Raft 33

MOM-8A 33

Flares 33

Fire Extinguishers 33

Emergency Pump 33

Lifejackets 34

Ditch Kit 34

Radar Reflector: Firdell Blipper 34

Deck Gear Notes 35

Deck Lights 35

Granny Bars 35

Dorade Vent Plugs 35

Drop Boards 35

Galley 36

Force 10 – 3 Burner Stove 36

Propane System 36

Magma Barbeque and Table 36

Frigoboat Refrigerator/Freezer 36

Electrolux Microwave 37

Heads 38

Electric Flush Toilets 38

Water 39

MT Freshwater AB – MT 3200 39

MT-3200 Watermaker 40

Water Tank Maintenance 40

Dinghy 41

Technical Notes 43

Breakers 43

Preventer 43

INMARSAT Config 43

Radar Repeater 44

Wireless Temp / Atomic Clock 44

Vickie Vance Parts Comments 44

Todd Rickard 44

Medications 46

Cinnarizine 46

Stugeron 46

Miscellaneous 47

Entertainment 47

Washing machine: Kenny Euronova 600 washer 47

Swim ladder 47

Safe 47

Helm step 47

Squeegee 47

The Aft Lazarette 47

Introduction

This is a living document designed to track relevant information related to the configuration, operation and servicing of KEWA, 1999 Hallberg-Rassy 46, Hull #126.

KEWA Inventory

|Item |Mfg |Model/Serial # |Description |Volt |Man |From |

|Regulator |Balmar |MaxCharge MC-624 |24v multi-stage regulator |24v | | |

|Alternator |Balmar |91224 |24v 65A alternator; 9-Series single output |24v | | |

| |Hitachi |LR180-03C 119573 77201 |12v 80A alternator |12v | | |

|Inverter/Charger |Mastervolt |24/2500-70 |Combi Inverter/Charger 24v/220V; 70A charger |220 | | |

|Inverter |Mastervolt |24/1000 |Inverter 24v/110v | | | |

|Charger |MasterVolt |IVO 12/25 |12V 220V charger |220 | | |

|Compass |Simrad |RFCS5R |rategyro compass | | | |

| |Suunto | |Binnacle compass | | | |

|Autopilot |Robertson |AP20/HLD 2000LS |Autopilot computer | | | |

| |Robertson | |(3) Autopilot controls (helm, nav station and under dodger) | | | |

| |Whitlock | |autopilot drive attached to rod steering system in engine room | | | |

| |Robertson | |hydraulic autopilot drive unit on independent rudder post arm | | | |

| | | |Switch at helm to select autopilot drive unit | | | |

| | | |PC interface wiring for Autopilot (RS232 connector at nav station) | | | |

| | | |Autopilot input selector switch (PC / GPS) | | | |

|Genset |Fischer Panda |P6 980902 |Model 6 PMS Genset 6kW 220v 50hz generator w/ Soundguard |12v start |Y | |

|Backstay Tensioner |NAVTEC |A 370-A-22 |Hydraulic backstay tensioner | | | |

|Galley Range |Force 10 |M:61358 S:801988 |3-Burner galley range | | | |

|Bow Thruster |Sidepower | |10hp | | | |

|Instruments |Simrad |IS11 |Speed, log, depth, wind, central (multifunction display) mounted over | | | |

| | | |companionway | | | |

| |Simrad |IS11 |Multifunction display in master cabin | | | |

|VHF |Simrad |Shipmate RS 8300 Dual |VHF with SOS function | | | |

| |Simrad | |(2) VHF handsets - nav station, helm | | | |

| |Simrad | |(2) VHF speakers - nav station, cockpit | | | |

| |Simrad | |Spare VHF handset | | | |

| |Standard | |VHF hand held | | | |

| |Apelco | |VHF hand held | | |WK |

| |ICOM | |VHF hand held | | |WK |

|GPS/Plotter |Simrad |GN 32 |GPS/DGPS | | | |

| |Garmin |GPS 48 |HH GPS | | |WK |

| |Garmin |GPS 192C |Chart Plotter @ helm | | |WK |

|Loudhailer |Raymarine |430 |Loudhailer with preprogrammed fog signals and speaker mounted on mast. | | | |

|SSB |SG |SG-2000 Power Talk |Single sideband radio with autotuner |230 | | |

| |RR Pacific | |antenna/amplifier/filter system (GSM/VHF/TV/SSB/AM/FM) | | | |

| | | |Insulated backstay | | | |

| | | |Headphone/recorder setup for SSB | | | |

|Radar |Simrad/Anritsu |RA771-3 |4kw, open array radar with antenna mounted on stainless steel pole | | | |

| | | |Radar CRT display at nav station | | | |

| | | |8" LCD radar repeater in cockpit | | | |

|Weatherfax |Furuno |FAX-208 Mark-2 |Weatherfax | | | |

|EPIRB |ACR |RapidFix 406 |EPIRB Beacon ID: 2DCC361EBAFFBFF | | | |

|Life Raft |Autoflug |ALK2000R |6-person, low profile | | | |

|Barometer |Speedtech | |Electronic barometer | | | |

|Temp Monitor |Radio Shack | |Local plus 3 wireless remotes (Fridge, Freezer, Engine Room) | | |WK |

|PC |Fujitsu |Lifebook S6231 |Notebook PC | | |WK |

| |Planar |Part #997-2165-00, ID PV-150, s/n |15” Flatscreen monitor |12V | | |

| | |M0036HE2104135 | |2.5A | | |

| |Logitech | |Keyboard (Bluetooth) | | |WK |

| |Logitech | |Trackball | | |WK |

| |Sea Level |SeaPORT |4x USB Hub | | |WK |

| |Linksys |Wireless-G |USB network adapter | | |WK |

| |Nobeltec |0075-651548-7196-097491 |Visual Nav Suite | | |WK |

| |Nobeltec |59360-45961-08260-49915 |Region 14 chart kit | | |WK |

| |Nobeltec |61100-22926-65080-87679 |Region 15 chart kit | | |WK |

| |Nobeltec |68557-31435-12092-35575 |Region 12 chart kit | | |WK |

| | | |Starry Night software | | | |

| |Canon |PIXMA iP90 |Printer w/ Bluetooth interface | | |WK |

| |RAM | |PC mount with wiring | | | |

|SatCom |Thrane & Thrane |C: TT3020CM (or is it TT3626CM as on |Inmarsat-C (or mini-C?) | | | |

| | |phone?) Transceiver serial number | | | | |

| | |00205020 | | | | |

| |Thrane & Thrane |Serial # 76TT0755E6D2 |INMARSAT Mini-M | | | |

|Stereo |Pioneer | |Deck | | | |

| |Pioneer | |CD Changer | | | |

| |Infinity | |Cabin speakers | | | |

| |Sea & Symphony | |Cockpit speakers | | | |

|Video |Sharp | |Flatscreen TV | | | |

| |Colby | |Progressive Scan DVD |220 | |WK |

|Windlass |Lofrans |Progress II | | | | |

|Watermaker |MT Freshwater AB |MT 3200/SSH |1998 #231 |230 | | |

|Washer | | | |220 | | |

|Flotation Devices |Mustang |150N/35lb, Serial 971294, 971296 |Crewfit, Uses Mustang Survival Rearm Pack C10019 or C10014 | | |WK |

| |Stearns | |Hip Pack, Halkey-Roberts Inflation 840, 840 AMUXEP6, Replacement Kit 905 or 906| | |WK |

| | | |(0906KIT-00-000) | | | |

| |West Marine | |Autoinflate vest w/ integral harness, qty 2 | | |WK |

| |Crewfit | | | | | |

|Safety |Survival Technologies | |MOM8 | | | |

| |Group (Switlik) | |Service by Westpac Marine Services | | | |

| | | |Throw Rope | | | |

| | | |Life Sling | | | |

|Sails |Elvstrom | |Main, original non-battened as a spare | | | |

| |Elvstrom | |Main, full-length vertical battens (new in June 2003, added 20% additional sail| | | |

| | | |area) | | | |

| |Elvstrom | |Jib | | | |

| |Elvstrom | |Genoa | | | |

| |Quantum | |Spinnaker, light air asymmetric with control sock | | | |

| |Elvstrom | |Spinnaker, heavy air asymmetric with control sock | | | |

| |Elvstrom | |Spinnaker, furling cruising (Code Zero) | | | |

| |Elvstrom | |Staysail | | | |

Cheat Sheets

Guidelines for Workers

Nothing personal, but some bad past experiences have made it necessary to make certain that anyone performing work on KEWA knows the following guidelines:

❑ The bilge is clean, so please let it that way. Do not allow oil, fuel, antifreeze or water to drain into the bilge. If something does enter the bilge, no matter what it is, please clean it out.

❑ Wipe your feet before setting foot on the deck.

❑ Take your shoes off or wear booties when going below decks.

❑ If there is work to be done below deck, put down protective cardboard, tarps or paper.

❑ It is assumed that all jobs include proper clean up to return the boat to the condition it was in prior to starting the job.

❑ Please thoroughly test the installation/repair.

❑ Please leave a note if there are any special considerations, such as the job is not complete yet.

Sail Rig Cheat Sheets

When running, vang hard

Can hoist or drop genoa/jib when sheeted in on any point of sail (depends on how tight the headfoil is)

Pole rig (see USS Passage Making pg 19; also Calder’s Cruiser’s Guide)

Departure/Dock Cheat Sheets

Returning to the Boat

❑ Hatch boards stored in cockpit lazarette

❑ Check refrigerator temp & odor (under 42 degrees); drain excess water

❑ Open hatches

❑ Electric Panel: All light switches ON

❑ Electric Panel: Freshwater pump ON

❑ Electric Panel: Toilets ON

❑ 110v Inverter ON

❑ 220v Inverter ON

❑ If staying at dock

o Plug in water heater (in engine room) – plug in and turn on at 220V AC Panel

o 12v battery charger on if less than 12.6v

o 24v battery charger on if less than 25.0v

Basic Cruise Prep

❑ If going to charge 24v system from Genset, set 24v charger Power Share to 20 for full charge

❑ Turn AC selector panel OFF

❑ Heavy Duty 230v breakers OFF

❑ Remove shore power cord from boat and leave on dock or fully remove and store in aft lazarette

❑ Winch handle at helm and mast

❑ VHF handset at helm

❑ Air horn accessible at helm

❑ Check engine and genset oil

❑ Halyards led to mast/bungee cords removed

❑ Remove hatch & winch covers and store in cockpit lazarette

❑ Helm & helm instrument covers removed and stored in cockpit lazarette

❑ Windscreen instrument covers removed and stored under nav seat

❑ Simard GPS at nav station

❑ Ensure Simrad GPS selected (behind nav station breaker panel)

❑ Garmin GPS on at helm

❑ PC on with Nobeltec started; Autopilot input to PC if using PC charts

❑ Upload Nobeltec route(s) to Garmin GPS at helm

❑ Bowthruster cockpit switch on

❑ FURL breaker on

❑ Radar ON

❑ Winches and windlass breakers ON (nav station footwell)

❑ Knotmeter transducer inserted / bilge fresh water rinse / bilge pumped

❑ Destow mainsheet

❑ Tie down dingy

❑ VHF on

❑ Autopilot on

❑ Winches breaker on

❑ Check genset coolant

❑ Check genset oil

❑ Check engine coolant

❑ Check engine oil

❑ Pump bilge

❑ Close hatches

Extended Cruise Prep

❑ Fill out cruise log sheet

❑ Reset Simard log

❑ Reset Garmin GPS logs

❑ Plot route on Nobeltec

❑ Upload route to Garmin

Returning to Slip

❑ Knotmeter transducer plug replaced / fresh water rinse / bilge pumped

❑ Winch handles from helm and mast stored in cockpit lazarette

❑ Halyards led to pulpit or bungeed away from mast to shrouds

❑ VHF handset off helm and stored at Nav station

❑ Wash boat

❑ Replace instrument covers

❑ Replace hatch & winch covers

❑ Replace helm cover

❑ Set 24v charger Power Share to 10 if faster full charge is needed

❑ Shore power connected (MasterVolt confirms AC IN)

❑ Turn ON shore power at AC Panel

Leaving the Boat (Short Term)

❑ Clear perishables out of refrigerator

❑ 12V charger OFF at 220V AC Panel

❑ 24V charger ON at MasterVolt control panel

❑ 110v Inverter OFF

❑ Water heater – OFF at 220V AC Panel and pull plug in engine room

❑ Close and lock hatches

❑ Replace hatch and winch covers

❑ Ensure Propane OFF at tank & electric panel

❑ Electric Panel: Everything OFF except:

o Refrig (leave at least one on to keep water circulating and prevent growth in hoses)

o Lights #4 (allows use of lights under dodger when returning at dark)

o GPS (provides for longer life of the GPS internal memory battery)

o Bilge Pump

o Water Pressure ON if watermaker flush active

❑ Set 24v charger Power Share to 5

❑ Hatch boards replaced & locked

VHF Channels

|DISTRESS SAFETY AND CALLING - Use this channel to get the attention of another station (calling) or in emergencies (distress and safety). |16 |

|INTERSHIP SAFETY - Use this channel for ship-to-ship safety messages and for search and rescue messages and ships and aircraft of the Coast Guard. |6 |

|COAST GUARD LIAISON - Use this channel to talk to the Coast Guard (but first make contact on Channel 16). |22 |

|NONCOMMERCIAL - Working channels for voluntary boats. Messages must be about the needs of the ship. Typical uses include fishing reports, rendezvous, scheduling repairs |96, 68, 69, 71, 72, 78, 794, 804, |

|and berthing information. Use Channels 67 and 72 only for ship-to-ship messages. |677 |

|COMMERCIAL - Working channels for working ships only. Messages must be about business or the needs of the ship. Use channels 8, 67, 72 and 88 only for ship-to-ship |15, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 18, 19, 635, |

|messages. |677, 79, 80, 881 |

|PUBLIC CORRESPONDENCE (MARINE OPERATOR) - Use these channels to call the marine operator at a public coast station. By contacting a public coast station, you can make and|24, 25, 26, 27, 28, 84, 85, 86, |

|receive calls from telephones on shore. Except for distress calls, public coast stations usually charge for this service. |87, 882 |

|PORT OPERATIONS - These channels are used in directing the movement of ships in or near ports, locks or waterways. Messages must be about the operational handling |15, 53, 12, 14, 20, 635, 65, 66, |

|movement and safety of ships. In certain major ports, Channels 11,12 and are not available for general port operations messages. Use channel 20 only for ship-to-coast |73, 74, 77 |

|messages. Channel 77 is limited to intership communications to and from pilots | |

|NAVIGATIONAL - (Also known as the bridge-to-bridge channel.) This channel is available to all ships. Messages must be about ship navigation, for example, passing or |13, 67 |

|meeting other ships. You must keep your messages short. Your power output must not be more than one watt. This is also the main working channel at most locks and | |

|drawbridges. | |

|MARITIME CONTROL - This channel may be used to talk to ships and coast stations operated by state or local governments. Messages must pertain to regulation and control, |17 |

|boating activities, or assistance to ships. | |

|DIGITAL SELECTIVE CALLING - Use this channel for distress and safety calling and for general purpose calling using only digital selective calling techniques. |70 |

|WEATHER - On these channels you may receive weather broadcasts of the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration. These channels are only for receiving. You cannot |Wx-1 162.55, Wx-2 162.4, Wx-3 |

|transmit on them. |162.475 |

Channel Superscript Translation

1. Not available in the Great Lakes, St. Lawrence Seaway, or the Puget Sound and the Strait of Juan de Fuca and its approaches.

2. Only for use In the Great Lakes, St Lawrence Seaway, and Puget Sound and the Strait of Juan de Fuca and its approaches.

3. Available only In the Houston and New Orleans areas.

4. Available only in the Great Lakes.

5. Available only In the New Orleans area.

6. Available for Intership, ship, and coast general purpose calling by noncommercial ships.

7. Available only In the Puget Sound and the Strait of Juan de Fuca.

NATO Phonetic Alphabet

|Alpha |November |

|Bravo |Oscar |

|Charlie |Papa |

|Delta |Quebec |

|Echo |Romeo |

|Foxtrot |Sierra |

|Golf |Tango |

|Hotel |Uniform |

|India |Victor |

|Juliet |Whiskey |

|Kilo |X-ray |

|Lima |Yankee |

|Mike |Zulu |

Detailing

Exterior Washing

It is preferable to do a complete boat soap washdown of the exterior after every use. Professional washdown at the dock is presently scheduled for two timers per month.

Auto wash mitts help in getting all the rails, stanchions, and other hard to reach areas on the boat.

Teak

While cruising (plenty of saltwater on the decks), no particular cleaning is required. Wash it with boat soap using a very soft chamois mop, mopping perpendicular to the grain. The best way to lighten up teak is to take the boat sailing. The combination of saltwater on the decks and walking the decks will make them seem like new. If it gets dark coloring (generally when not used frequently) you can clean it annually with a very light mixture of either TSP and water or bleach and water. Wet the deck, then rub with a stiff sponge against the grain with the solution. Let stand for five minutes then rinse. You’ll need to do it in small sections at a time so it does not dry before rinsing. You can also obtain Boracol from HR Parts & Accessories to treat the deck to reduce the build up of mildew (what causes the black discolorations), but Boracol is not legal in the US.

Wax/Polish

3M Marine Wax for the fiberglass and 3M Metal polish for the stainless. Wax around the exhaust ports to remove the black stains as soon as possible after a voyage.

Mast/Boom

Polish the mast and boom periodically with Aluminum polish.

Bottom

The previous owner reported that he would use scuba gear and clean the bottom about once a month with a stiff sponge on everything, a 3M scrub pad only as necessary, and a paint scraper for the propeller to get the blades clean. They found that if you stayed out of marinas, once a month was more than enough. If you were in marinas, especially well-protected ones, a couple of weeks would result in a pretty tough scrub job being required to get off the growth.

Interior

Wipe the mahogany wood with a soft cloth and Murphy’s Oil Soap (not oil). Polish the metal using Flitz metal polish. Use small Red Devil hand-held vacuum to vacuum the carpets. Makita portable vac in the hall cabinet for small vacuum jobs. In the heads and galley use Simple Green (much cheaper at the auto parts store than the marine store). An occasional good cleaning with 409 to make sure all the germs are dead.

Engine Room

Freshwater rinse anytime that saltwater is spilled (i.e., cleaning saltwater intake strainers.) A thorough 409 cleaning periodically, especially after oil changes will help keep it clean.

Bilges

Occasional rinses with a light mix of bleach water to kill anything that might be living down there. Dump a 5 gallon bucket each through the engine room and the forward sole locker. The bilge pump should come on and pump out, then use the hand pump to make sure the bilge is pumped clear.

Sailing

Mainsail

Previous owner reported that the best method to furl and unfurl is to have the backstay slacked, the boom down (you are trying to keep tension on the leach.) Then head about 5-10 degrees to starboard of the wind and furl or unfurl. Keep some slack in the sail (do not pull it tight against the boom.) Once the sail is all the way out of the mast, ease the mainsheet and ensure there is no tension on it, then tighten the outhaul the remainder of the way. Tightening the outhaul with the mainsheet tight and the sail loaded puts undue stress on the winch and the cheek block for the outhaul.

Genoa

Jib

Staysail

Code Zero

This is the loose luff, furling headsail. How to rig it and run the sheets.

Wind conditions, max wind speed for wind direction:

25 knots max by 125°

20 knots max by 100°

12 knots max by 80°

Heavy Air Asymmetric

This is the light blue and white spinnaker with an ATN sock. How to rig it and run the sheets.

25-30 knots max by 140°

20 knots max by 115°

15 knots max by 90°

Light Air Asymmetric

This is the white spinnaker with the flower logo and an ATN sock. It is used the same way as the heavy air asymmetric, but do not recommend using on the pole. Allowable wind conditions should be approximately one half that of the heavy air sail.

Motoring

Mechanical

Yanmar 4LH-TE 105 HP Turbocharged Diesel Auxiliary

Previous owner used Mack Boring as a parts supplier and reports that they can also help answer technical questions, like what to do when the fuel filter bleed bolt sheers off (replace it with any stainless steel bolt that fits, don’t worry about the small pre-drilled hole in the original bolt.)

Fisher Panda Model 6 PMS Genset

Fisher-Panda 6kW 220v 50hz generator w/ Soundguard.

Main distributor is in Florida 800 508 6494. Hallberg-Rassy installed a Racor instead of the normal FP fuel filter, so do not order any fuel filters from FP. Always order their belts - do not order generic belts as they cannot stand up to the heat in the sound proof box.

Do not replace the coolant block as described in the FP manual. This is only necessary if the genset is raw water cooled, which, as installed, this genset is not.

The previous owner had the 12v voltage regulator go out and tech support walked him through working around it by email. Recommend carrying a spare 12v voltage regulator for the genset. The problems he had more frequently with the genset were cooling system related. Two impellers self-destructed, the fan belt came lose twice, and the hose on the exhaust side split. He added to the annual maintenance list the need to remove and inspect all cooling hoses on the genset to avoid that problem. Also recommend installing the Speed Seal cover to the impeller to make it quick and easy to check/replace the impeller.

To install the spare 12v regulator, per FP support: All you have to do is change the plug on the end. Bend the tabs down on the white plug and re install the black end on the plug. The shim you do not replace, all injection pumps have shims just depends on what engine all engines have a set which can be different and if not installed correctly can throw off timing but you do not replace them only if they are damaged. The fuel solenoid piece you have to disassemble the plug remove the screw and you have to de-solder the connections and the diode and remember the way the diode goes because it is polarity sensitive, unless the harness has melted.

If I can be of further help please email or call,

parts@ 1-800-508-6494.

Thank You, Ricardo Colõn

-----Original Message-----

From: Will Kruka [mailto:Will.Kruka@]

Sent: Friday, September 08, 2006 12:50 PM

To: parts@; 'Will Kruka'

Subject: RE: Parts for P6 980902

Ok, thanks. Is the order for the wiring harness and the replacement

regulator being processed? Is the black plastic thing that sits between

the engine case and the injection pump the shim that you are referring

to? Is that not normally replaced when the injection pump is replaced?

Tx, will

-----Original Message-----

From: "Ricardo Colon"

To: "'Will Kruka'"

Sent: 9/8/06 9:30 AM

Subject: RE: Parts for P6 980902

No gasket required for the injection pump only shims. The screws are not

available. I apologize for not letting you know.

If I can be of further help please email or call,

parts@ 1-800-508-6494.

Thank You, Ricardo Colõn

-----Original Message-----

From: Will Kruka [mailto:Will.Kruka@]

Sent: Friday, September 08, 2006 11:48 AM

To: parts@

Cc: bgrubert@

Subject: Parts for P6 980902

Importance: High

Received the parts and was able to install the new fuel injection pump

and the bleed upgrade kit. Genset now starts and runs beautifully.

Thank you.

I do need to do the following, however:

1) Exchange the 12v regulator -- the regulator on my genset has a long,

flatish, black connector, not the wider, shorter, white one.

2) Purchase a wiring harness for the new fuel solenoid I was sent. My

old solenoid has the wiring fairly permanently connected to it, whereas

the new solenoid has three prongs for a harness/cable of some sort to

connect to it, so I'll need the proper harness/connector for that.

3) I did not receive the fuel injection pump gasket that I requested,

nor did I receive the screws & nut for the injection pump.

Can you please send these parts and I will return the regulator I have

to you?

Thanks again,

Will

650-906-2234

Oil Changing

The previous owner changed the oil using an electric oil drain pump kit, but felt that this resulted in leaving at least 10-20% of the dirty oil in the pan, sometimes more. He planned to add drain systems to both the main engine and genset, but did not. His idea was to not include the electric pump in the system, but instead will use a similar setup that connects a hose to the drain plug. He would have the hose capped normally, and then at oil change time would connect the hose to the same portable system. He felt that this would keep the cost down and lower the risk of an accidental oil drain.

AquaDrive system

This comes standard on the HR 46 and all larger HRs. It is a nice system that ensures that the full thrust from the propeller is used to move the boat forward in the water and not to move the engine forward on the engine mounts.

Gori Folding Propeller

It is a folding prop in which the blades can fold out in either direction. You can obtain different pitch depending on which way they are folded. This means that in reverse you have the same pitch you have in the normal forward gear, and by keeping the props folded for the reverse gear, you have essentially a forward “high gear”. To do this, you have to motor in reverse until the boat is moving through the water backwards, then switch into forward gear and motor forwards (if you put the boat in neutral, the blades will flip back to normal gear.) In normal gear, flat water, we typically motor around 6 knots at 1700 rpm, in high gear, we will do 7-7.5 knots at 1700 rpm.

We have had 3 occurrences of rope/nets wound into the propeller. We have the “spurs” (line cutters) installed. The debris was never wrapped on the shaft, only in the prop itself. We usually notice it as we pull into an anchorage and try to stop the boat, with all the rope around the prop, it doesn’t fold properly (when putting it in reverse, the blades are supposed to flip through to the other side.) So we end up with a tangled mess and a prop that only unfolds about 1/3 as far as it should (and you don’t get much power from that!) We usually end up putting on dive gear and cutting it away. I can only speculate that we increase our chances of getting debris in the prop when we have to motor in reverse to get into high gear, but that we don’t notice the debris until much later when we try to reverse and switch gears and the blades get caught.

When the propeller starts to turn under power, water pressure develops immediately on the exposed portion of the blade. The water pressure determines if the blades open to the right or to the left... the propeller opens one way when turning clockwise and the other way when turning counterclockwise. The face of each blade has one pitch and the back of each blade has a higher pitch.

When the vessel is put into forward, the propeller opens so that the face of each blade is the positive pressure side. The water pressure pushing on the blade face pushes the vessel forward. When the vessel is put into neutral before putting the vessel in reverse, the blades fold immediately under the current caused by the forward motion of the vessel. In reverse, the propeller rotates in the opposite direction, flipping the blades over. The water pressure is again pushing on the blade face and pulls the vessel in reverse. When under sail in favorable conditions, the skipper can decide to motor sail using the back face of the propeller blades, which have a steeper pitch than the front face of the blades. This is accomplished by starting the engine and backing down to put the propeller in the correct orientation. While putting the vessel in neutral, the current keeps the blades open. When the transmission is put into forward, the propeller blades do not flip over, because the positive pressure that develops when the prop starts to turn holds the blades in place. The sails are raised and the vessel is now overdrive, achieving higher speeds for a given RPM, or better feul economy by running at reduced RPM's at a given speed.

The "overdrive" is used when motorsailing in fair weather or when using the engine under sail. The "overdrive" gives the same speed at lower rpms. The result is less engine noise, less vibration and better fuel economy.

The function is simple. E.g. when changing from "overdrive" to normal ahead the shift and throttle control is set in neutral, which allows the propeller to fold. Then the shift and throttle control is set in forward again.

You gotta be serious about it though, because to get into overdrive, you gotta go backwards, then pop the throttle into neutral, then forward and you're in overdrive. It is nice when motorsailing though. I've never had a problem accidentally winding up in OD. It's pretty easy to tell when you're in OD inadvertently (i.e. no sails helping out) because the engine will be laboring and won't wind up like normal when throttle is applied. If you think about it (and this is one of the reasons I don't use OD all THAT much), putting the prop in OD without the sails helping to move the boat is basically like having an over-pitched prop, which is overloading the engine.

Side Power 10 HP Bow Thruster

The controls are integral to the engine throttle lever on the binnacle. Always test the bowthruster before you need it to make sure that it is turned on and functioning properly. Wait xx seconds after thrusting in one direction before thrusting in the other direction in order to let the gears stop spinning and to avoid severe damage. The unit blocks a too-rapid-direction reversal itself, by disengaging the switch in the opposite direction, but it is still best to wait xx seconds and avoid any risk of damage.

Electrical

KEWA has a very comprehensive and flexible electrical system.

Battery Capacity

[pic]

Deep cycle batteries shouldn’t be discharged more than 50% of total amp hour capacity. When charging a battery to its full capacity, the last 15% of the charging is very inefficient. Therefore it is recommended that a battery bank be discharged to 50% and recharged to 85% of its capacity. Charging back to 100% is okay, but takes a lot of genset hours or engine hours to achieve the final full charge. For KEWA’s house bank, following this approach results in 126 24V amp-hours of usable capacity. Assuming the batteries are in good shape, batteries can be discharged until the MasterVolt control panel reads –180 amp-hours, and then should be charged until the reading is approximately –54 amp-hours.

Battery Charge Indication by Reading Voltage

| |100% |75% |50% |25% |

|12V |12.6 |12.4 |12.2 |12.0 |

|24V |25.2 |24.8 |24.4 |24.0 |

These are open circuit voltage reading (no load on battery).

Battery Charging Profiles

❑ 12v regulator is on-board the Hitachi alternator and charges at a fixed 14.2v

❑ 24v regulator is a 3-stage external unit and charges based on the selected profile. Standard Flooded Lead Acid profile is BULK at 28.8v, ABS at 28.4v and FLOAT at 28.4v. Gel = 28.2, 27.8, 27.4. AGM = 28.76, 28.36, 26.76.

❑ 12v charger BULK charges until it hits 14.25v, ABS charges for 4 hrs or until current is less than 1A for 15mins, whichever is earlier, then FLOAT charges at 13.25v. Jumper setting provides optional FLOAT voltage of 13.8v.

❑ 24v charger BULK charges until it hits 28.8v, holds for 4 hrs for ABS, then FLOATS at 26.8v

Genset charges @ 28.7v Abs; 14.3v Abs

Mastervolt Charger/Inverters (220v Inverter)

This system is controlled by the Combi System Control Panel (CSCP) located above the engine room access in the hallway to the owner’s cabin. Produces a true sine wave output.

Mastervolt 110v Inverter

Produces a modified sine wave output (trapezoid) that seems to power everything okay, except for a breadmaker machine.

CSCP Set Up

Press Set Up button for 5 seconds (the green LED will flash when Set Up mode is active). Then briefly press the button for the function to be set up (blue lettering). The present value will be displayed. After 3 seconds of pressing the function button, the display will begin to scroll through the range of values that can be selected. Release the button when the desired value is displayed.

The Power Share feature sets the AC current limit for battery charging to ovoid over-loading available AC sources. To enter Power Share set up, ensure that the green LED on the charge button is illuminated before entering set up mode. The selections are 5, 10, 15 and 20. The higher the number, the greater the amps available for charging. 10 appears to be a good setting for 30amp shore power service (20 will definitely overload 30amp shore service). 10 appears to work okay (CSCP indicates about 44amps during charging). The genset can handle 20.

Reportedly the full specification charging rate is 70 amps, although the previous owner never saw more than just under 60amps.

The previous owner reported a larger electrical problem for which they never found the cause. The symptom was that the charging parameters got scrambled. Unplugging the control panel from the system to reset it to factory defaults solved the problem.

Turning the 24v gauge on at the electrical panel also illuminates the CSCP backlight.

Mastervolt 110 Inverter

No problems reported by the previous owner.

Balmar 65amp Alternator (24v)

The previous owner replaced the alternator with a new unit in 2004, and the old unit is kept as a working spare.

24v Voltage Regulator

A Balmar multi-stage programmable regulator is installed under the floorboard at the nav station seat. With this regulator you can choose the charging program from a set of factory-predefined programs.

The previous owner reports that the factory program for deep cycle flooded cell batteries doesn’t work for KEWA’s system. It attempts to bulk charge until 29.20 volts is reached, but in trying to reach 29.2 volts, the batteries gas considerably and get too hot.

Installed next to the regulator (under nav station foot board) are two switches to disable charging from the alternator. If the batteries are fully charged, the alternator can be switched off to avoid too much charge to the batteries, which may result in damage. Because the Balmar regulator wants to run a minimum 30-minute bulk charge to start, if you are starting and stopping the engine or if you run the Genset when the batteries are fully charged, you can disable the regulator. Also don’t run both the 24v AC charger and alternator at the same time as they can overheat the batteries.

The labels on the switches under the footwell indicate which wire they are disconnecting to the alternator and the resulting impact.  On = connected and Off = disconnected. They both have to be connected to get any charge. Ignition Resets Cycle disconnects the Ignition wire to the alternator. When reconnected it will reset the charging cycle on the Balmar voltage regulator to the beginning of the cycle. The MaxCharge regulator display next to the switches indicates the present charging stage. The Field Resumes Cycle disconnects the field wire to the alternator. This temporarily disables charging, and when reconnected will resume at the charging stage where it left off.

Batteries

The batteries provided by the HR factory are nicely set up (isolated, vented battery boxes, with removable locking boards to lockdown the batteries), but the batteries are a difficult to replace type/size. The system originally consisted of 6 x 12volt @ 140amp-hours for the 24v side, (providing at total of 420amp at 24volts), 1 x 12volt @ 140amp-hours for the 12v service and 1 x 12volt @ 140 amp-hours for the starter battery.

HR Yahoo group user reports that the original 140amp Tudor domestic batteries measure 51cm x 19cm x 19cm. Others think they are actually 513 x 189 x 223 mm, and have used the Tudor HD (4D LT) (as installed by HR in many Yachts) as well as the HDX (improved version) and found that they worked quite well for 3-4 seasons.

Some HR Yahoo group users reported that they installed 4 of the newest SHD, SuperHeavyDuty, and so far are very happy with them, as they are more adapted to deep-discharge situations. The size is the same but they had to change the cabling as the

poles are only available in one version and it was reversed from the previous installation.

Tudor is a part of the Exide Group, and have distributors worldwide. If

you like, You can get a ExideGel battery in the exact same size, the

G120. 120 Ah. Yahoo HR group users report that they are not a fan of GEL/AGM batteries myself, but YMMV.

One owner replaced the Tudors with Interstate(Johnson Controls) 4D batteries, a marine

deep cycle battery.

Hi

I do not know what size your battery box is but my original Tudors I think were the same as yours and with a few modifications to the bat. box I was able to fit Lifeline AGM's supplied by Merlin Equipment.

I used theGPL -8D which are 527 x 278 x 251( max dims) 255ah each (but don't ask the price!)

Length and width not a problem but I had to modify the battery restraint method as the are taller!

As with HOA so far all ok

paul

Nearly all flooded batteries are in the 1.260 to 1.280 range when fully charged at room temperature. Most deep cycle batteries should be in the 1.277 to 1.280 range at 77 degrees F.

Per Calder: In the US, the standard temp is 80 dF. If 70 dF, subtract 0.004. If 90 dF, then add 0.004. Let the battery rest for up to 24 hours if coming off a vigorous use

Per The specific gravity, SG, of the electrolyte in each cell of a battery shows the battery's state of charge:

Full 100% charged = 1.280

75% charged = 1.240

50% charged = 1.200

25% charged = 1.160

Dead 0% charged = 1.120.

The previous owner determined that they had multiple bad cells (testing with hydrometer and perform a capacity test as per Calder’s book). They were unable to locate a replacement battery that matched the dimensions or capacity of the original HR batteries. The size is similar to 4D’s, but the 4D is about 2 inches taller and won’t fit in the battery box. They located a similar battery, same dimensions but 120amp instead of 140amp. The new batteries are called “N120’s” and can be found quite easily through battery distributors. They are a common Asian size as well as used in some tractors. The new batteries were sourced from Arc Battery Company, (415) 332-3272, 90 Gate 5 Rd., Sausalito, CA 94965

Electronics

Autopilot: Robertson AP300X

We have the Simrad/Robertson AP300, with control heads at the Helm, Nav station, and instrument panel under the dodger. The Autopilot has done probably 95% of all steering for the last 3,000+ miles. Had problems with it occasionally has a hard time getting back on course. The display shows that it knows what correction it needs to make, but is making it so slowly that eventually the off course alarm goes off and I end up correcting manually. This most often occurs when you are on a point of sail that causes the steering resistance to change considerably as it corrects the steering. Since reviewing with a Simrad technician and changing the system parameters – these problems have been resolved. The settings are noted in the manual for the autopilot.

We have two steering systems for the Autopilot with the ability to switch from the helm. The primary system (the one we always use) is connected to the Whitlock steering system, inside the engine room. The secondary is the standard pushrod connected to the steering quadrant under the bunk in the aft stateroom. The biggest plus about the drive on the Whitlock in the engine room is that you don’t get the noise of the hydraulic ram steering the boat when you are trying to sleep in the aft bunk.

Instruments

The Simrad IS-11 have been excellent. I would use them (or the new IS-15) again.

Radar: Anritsu 48 NM radar with repeater RA 771 UA

The main unit works great. The display is mounted so you can see it while seated on the starboard side of the cockpit. I especially like the auto-tune feature, which in most conditions, does a better job of tuning than I can do manually. It also integrates well with the other instruments: displays SOG, displays active GPS mark and a line from boat to mark, position of target, etc. The repeater in the cockpit has worked well since getting the system parameters set correctly. The unit must be setup as a slave unit, otherwise system errors will occur. Also, the range on the repeater must be equal to or lower than the range on the nav station unit. The transmitter is mounted aft on a pole, which has extension arm with a dinghy motor lift and the mini-M antennae.

SSB: SGC Powertalk with SG230 Auto Antenna Tuner

Once I read the manual and did some experimentation, I found this unit to be excellent, and easy to use. There is a set of complex filter controls which I set to bypass (I only seem to be able to make reception worse using them.) There is an RF Noise Blanker that eliminates a considerable amount of noise on reception. I also have to shut off all chargers and inverters (12v and 24v) to get good reception. The autopilot also interferes with reception, but I suspect this may be due to the power lead to the radio head coming off the same wire that leads to the autopilot. The SSB wiring was changed by the prior owner, and I had a new circuit breaker installed, so I’m not sure if the lead is still as it comes from the factory, or if it some point, a wiring shortcut was taken. I’m hoping that rewiring the power lead will eliminate the autopilot interference (it’s easy enough to turn off the chargers and inverters for radio checks, the autopilot is a problem, especially sailing shorthanded.) When the refrigeration condensers startup, they generate a noise on the radio that sounds like an auto-tuner tuning up on the same station. With good reception you can ignore the noise, with poor reception, it’s best to turn off the refrigeration while listening (just don’t forget to turn it back on).

The original setup had the SSB run off 24v using a voltage converter, which was removed by the original owner because it introduced too much noise.

Did some research on SailMail using the SGC. When you talk on the SSB, you only transmit at high power when you are actually speaking. Since speech has many pauses (even if you have the transmit button held down) you don’t transmit continuously at high power. When you connect via modem over SSB, you are transmitting at high power continuously for extended periods of time. The SGC unit recommends and add on fax unit that attaches to the transmitter if you are going to transmit at continuous power. So, if you go with the SGC and want HF email, get the fan unit. Get lots more detail on this at . The transceiver is installed in the aft cabin behind the set of drawers.

GPS: Shipmate GN 30 DGPS Navigator

Has worked extremely well. Has an internal battery to keep memory when powered off. This lasted about four years and requires a technician to replace. Leaving the GPS breaker on will make the battery last much longer.

Inmarsat C & Mini-M: Thrane & Thrane C/Mini-M Combo Unit

The transceiver must be powered on and “logged in” in order to receive any messages (system messages or email), but the PC doesn’t need to be turned on or connected.

We used Comsat initially and we’re really disappointed in level of service (getting setup, diagnosing technical problems, handling billing problems.) We’ve switched to Stratos, which was incredibly easy to setup and they are much better at handling technical issues and billing issues.

We do get a daily world news update that is interesting and free.

The Mini-M phone we do use, it’s $1.50/minute from most countries – a bit expensive but highly reliable compared to most other alternatives.

VHF: Simrad RS 8300 VHF Transceiver with Remote

I definitely like having a handset at the helm and one at the nav station. There is an extra handset in the spares if needed.

Loudhailer: Raytheon 430

This unit does all sorts of things, but the only thing I’ve used it for is to broadcast a fog signal.

Weatherfax: Furuno D-Fax

I am still a proponent of a dedicated weatherfax unit over the SSB/Computer version. You just have to make sure you have enough paper. Then you don’t have to worry about weatherfaxes coinciding with SSB nets or doing email, or watching movies on the PC! We have found weatherfax reception to be similar to SSB reception as far as turning off chargers and inverters.

Ground Tackle, Anchoring & Docking

Windlass: Vertical Lofrans Progress 2

Foot switches on deck and up/down remote on binnacle. Make sure to pull apart and lubricate the above deck moving parts annually (more often if cruising)

Our usual procedure is to have one person on the bow giving hand signals and the person at the helm driving and raising/lowering the anchor.

We use hand signals to indicate the direction of the mooring ball when approaching or the anchor when raising, so the driver can steer towards it. Fingers are used to indicate the amount of chain out. We mark our anchor at 20’ intervals with colored cable ties. They go in series of Red/Yellow/Green/Blue/White, large color-coded cards are displayed in both the bow locker and cockpit locker. With the hand signals, the driver just multiplies the number of fingers by 20’ to get the amount of chain out.

We also have headsets that we use for navigating through coral. We have a lookout on the bow communicating to the driver using the headsets. Our are Radio Shack brand, we would now buy new Motorola FRS units (that came out about 2 months after we bought ours!)

Primary Anchor: 75 lb. CQR

300’ 3/8” chain. This has worked well in all conditions, except where we had about 3” of sand over flat rock. I don’t think anything would have held there. We are setup to be able to add the 150’ rode from the Bruce to this chain if required.

Secondary Anchor: 20KG Bruce

45’ 3/8” chain and 150’ 5/8” rode. We have only set this a couple of times. We were in the Turks and Caicos in a very shallow area with lots of coral heads, shifting winds and currents. We set the two anchors at about 135 degrees apart and it worked beautifully. Also used as a stern anchor. It’s easiest to lower this over the bow into the dinghy and take it out and drop it. When shorthanded, we use the spinnaker halyard to hoist it and lower into the dinghy.

Third anchor: H35 Danforth

10’ 3/8” chain and 150’ 5/8” rode. This one sits on the bottom of the aft lazarette and we hope we never need to use it.

Mooring

We use a SwissTech mooring grabber and carry 250’ of ¾” 3-strand. These are requirements when mooring at Angel Island where you must pick up both a bow and a stern mooring to keep the strong currents from swinging you into other boats.

Canvas and Cushions

Bimini

Best to put up with two people and make sure that the rotating attach points on the side of the dodger don’t get any leverage in the wrong direction. Attach the front two webbing straps to the eye bolts on the cabin top in front of the dodger. Swing the boom out to the side, and lift up and back (watching the attach points) until it is fully extended. Attach the rear webbing straps to the line on the triangle attach point in front of the traveler.

Cockpit Enclosure

This is very useful in the Pacific Northwest, especially in winter. When going to the tropics, it can easily be removed with four screws and stored.

Sun Awning

The main idea is to put the running backstays back and attach the awning to those and the shrouds. See the series of pictures. It can be adjusted more to one side or the other depending on the path of the sun, to provide the best protection.

Cushions

Use the closed cell foam cushions for “racing” or deliveries where they might get abused. The Sunbrella cushions are much more attractive and comfortable; use them for relaxing or entertaining. The varnished trays under the dodger can be covered either using the Sunbrella covers or the closed cell foam; we generally just use the canvas now.

Follow the instructions from Sunbrella for cleaning all of the various canvas covers and cushions on the boat (it is important not to clean them using harsh detergents as it will reduce their waterproof characteristics.)

Safety

ACR RapidFix 406 EPIRB with GPS Interface

I don’t get why the ones with GPS built in cost $300 more than those with a GPS interface (the GPS chip only costs about $25) And recent tests have shown the GPS functionality on many of these units to be ineffective. So we went with the unit that allows a GPS interface.

Jacklines

We use 1” webbing jacklines with eyes installed fore and aft for attachment. We always remove them upon arrival and reinstall just before departure, to reduce UV degradation of the webbing.

Liferaft: Autoflug ALK2000R 6-Man Raft

Autoflug started supplying survival needs in the aircraft industry. They have since sold their marine unit to Zodiac. I really like the Autoflug because of its low profile, which enables storing in front of the dodger without obstructing your view. Coast Marine in San Francisco has done our repacking recently.

MOM-8A

This is a great instantly deployable unit that includes a horseshoe, pole and sea anchor. It needs to be serviced and repacked once a year with the liferaft.

Flares

We purchased the full contingent of flares that are recommended by the ORC for Category 0 offshore racing, and we carry all Paines-Wessex (more expensive, but you don’t want be left floating alone mid-ocean because you saved $100 in flares!) We were then fortunate enough to have the company that repacked our liferaft and MOB unit give us a ton of recently outdated flares from commercial vessels they service (most flares, especially Paines-Wessex, have been shown to last 2-3 times there USCG lifespan.) So we actually carry about 3 times the ORC requirements!

We also keep a white collision flare mounted at the helm.

Fire Extinguishers

The boat came with CE approved extinguishers, but no USCG approved, so we replaced one of the installed CE ones, and installed another USCG approved one. We keep the old CE ones on board as backup stored in closets.

Emergency Pump

Need to get one. Consider Edson handpump. They come prepackaged on a flat board with intake and output hoses. It stores neatly under the settee in the main saloon.

Lifejackets

We carry 4 auto-inflating harness type lifejackets for primary use. You don’t leave the cockpit at night without one of these on and having a tether connected to the jacklines. The two that we wear regularly also have flashlights and ACR strobes attached. We also carry two of the manual inflation, hip packet types and 6 of the inherently buoyant, bright orange, offshore lifejackets with whistles attached. If we had to abandon ship and had time, we would wear the orange lifejackets, not the auto-inflation type.

Ditch Kit

We have one of the “Floating” ditch kit bags. I have no doubt that full of safety gear, it would sink straight to the bottom. We’ve attached a long lanyard and two small floating fenders to add buoyancy. In it we keep:

• Handheld VHF

• PUR 06 handheld watermaker

• Flares & smoke signals

• Signal flag

• Signal mirror

• 3 Strobe lights

• 2 Thermal protective aids (they are like a cross between a space blanket and a jump suit.)

• First aid kit

• Dramamine

Radar Reflector: Firdell Blipper

Have no idea how well this works. I spend more time focusing on knowing where the other boats are and avoiding them. But it’s nice to have it just in case.

Deck Gear Notes

Deck Lights

We have a foredeck light, which is extremely useful in dealing with nighttime emergencies on the bow. We installed a stern light as well for rear deck work.

Granny Bars

It’s so nice, in any weather, when you are at the mast, to be able to lean back against the granny bars while you are working and not worry about getting thrown overboard. They also make a great place to hang extra lines or fenders.

Dorade Vent Plugs

Here is one I still don’t get. The dorade vents came with screw in mushroom caps to plug them. However, the plug screws into the bottom of the scoop on the dorade. You can’t access the bottom of the scoop without removing the scoop from the dorade box. If you remove it from the dorade box and screw in the plug, you can’t scew the scoop back onto the box. You have to take the scew in cap, cut the edges off the mushroom part (think of it as cutting the edges of the cap off.) So now you have a vertical plug that just goes straight up from the threads, but still has the top on it. You can now slide it in the scoop and screw it down.

You may not think this is a big deal, but we have a had a large wave result in standing water on the deck twice. The first resulted in flooding the dorade by the galley and a firehose spray of saltwater shooting into the saloon. The second time, the wave was on the aft deck and resulted in another firehose of spray going straight onto the aft bunk (and a rude awakening for Janice!)

Drop Boards

The lower hatch board came with latches to lock it in place. We made a bungee cord with connectors that attaches to the ladder inside and the padeye in the cockpit and threads through the vents in the upper hatch board that can be used to hold it in place and allow full opening and closing of the sliding hatch. This is required for ORC regulations.

Galley

Force 10 – 3 Burner Stove

Previous owner had a few problems with the Force 10. When thet first purchased the boat, they had a problem getting the oven to light. The support folks at Force 10 were excellent. They walked him through pulling off the face plate and rotating the pipe that the oven temperature knob is connected to, moving the knob out a very small amount, but enough to allow it to be pushed in (required to light the oven.).

The oven valve sized on 7/06 and I am in the process of replacing it. A complicated process to get access to everything. They ship the valve, but elect to not include a 10 cent gasket required for installation..

Propane System

The HR 46 comes with two propane tanks. Both were replaced by the previous owner to ones that had the new valves. Since you can’t get the European sizes in the US, they had to move down a bit in size and then fashion hold downs. They added webbing straps that attach to the wall of the propane locker and wrap around the top of the tank to ensure they didn’t move. Unfortunately they didn’t use stainless and the metal strap mounts rusted in to a huge mess.

Fireboy Xintex S-2A Propane Detector

Previous owner never had a propane leak or related problems. The problem reported with this system is that the solenoid that is inline and in the propane locker (somewhat exposed to the elements) goes bad occasionally. So I just carry some spares, it’s an easy job to replace it. I also carry the original hose that can be used to bypass the solenoid if necessary.

Propane Pressure Gauge

We added a dual tank system with a tank selector switch and pressure gauges in the propane locker. Made it easy to see when the tank was empty as well as simple to switch over the new tank without messing with hoses (nice when you are in the middle of preparing a meal.)

Magma Barbeque and Table

Frigoboat Refrigerator/Freezer

We have the separate refrigerator and freezer, running off 24 volts. They are awesome. They keep the boxes at pretty constant temperature (no ups and downs from a holding plate that is either freshly cooled, or getting warm.) You definitely need to get thermometers for both. You can pick these up at any store that sells kitchen supplies. The refrigerator should be at around 35-38 deg F, the freezer around 15 deg F. Either box can be used as a refrigerator or freezer. You control the temperature with the dial gauges, higher numbers are colder, lower numbers warmer. We’ve only had two problems with them, the first was due to a buildup of marine growth in the cooling water input going to the condenser. In the warmer waters of the Caribbean, without enough cooling water flowing, the condenser would overheat and shutdown (it has a temp sensor and shuts itself down automatically to prevent damage.) Once it cooled down enough from not running, it would restart itself and run until overheating again. It was difficult to figure out the cause, because it would cool down the ice-boxes, then they would warm up, and so on. Once we cleaned out the hoses (did I mention, carry a very long bottlebrush to clean out hoses) it worked fine. We avoid this now by always leaving the system on to keep water moving through the system and haven’t had the problem since. The second problem we encountered was on the trip down during the rally, when we had electrical problems and had very low voltage on the 24-volt system. At a low enough voltage, the system shut itself down, so make sure your electrical system works. I would use these in any boat I get in the future.

Electrolux Microwave

You just have to have a microwave. I will never have a cruising boat with out one.

Heads

Electric Flush Toilets

Live on a boat for a week with these and you’ll never want to pump a head again! We added inline sanitation devices that use the small blue pucks from West Marine. We only use these when the boat is not being cruised and the heads may sit for a week or two without being used. This reduces the smell caused by the saltwater sitting in the intake hoses and growing nasty. It doesn’t eliminate the problem, but helps quite a bit.

Carry service kits and extra joker valves for the toilets. And replace the joker valve and remove any localized buildup of calcium about once a year. Also, run whiter vinegar into the system periodically to help reduce calcium buildup. It is much better to clean out the system while you can still flush lots of clean water through it than it is to wait until you can’t flush the toilet.

Water

To start with you need a good watermaker.

MT Freshwater AB – MT 3200

130 lph/34 gph = 816 gpd

Important features:

• Automatic rinse cycle. After each use, it flushes the system with charcoal-filtered freshwater for 20 minutes. Then, each day at a programmable time, it does a 20-minute freshwater flush. This eliminates the need to pickle the watermaker if you are not going to use it for some time (recommended to be weeks, not months). Open the front of the control box using the large 4 plastic screws in the corners. The timer controller is inside.

• Redirectable intake and output hoses. Built-in hosing and valves provide for switching the sea water input from the thru-hull over to a hose you can place in a bucket as well as the same for all of the output hoses to switch over to hose into a bucket. This makes cleaning and pickling the watermaker an easy job and not a chore. This is just inside the engine room door on the right, labeled with a diagram showing how to set it.

MT Advice

I recommend you to wait and test whilst out at sea. If there is no alarm of high conductivity, there could still be bacteria that have establish themselves in the storage tanks and pipes. You can make a simple control by sending a sample of the produced water (taken from the tap) to an authorized laboratory. Or just do it the rough way, drink it and see what happens.

Membrane price is USD 475:-/ Membrane type 2540 SWC1 (you would need 2 for MT3200). Plus forwarding freight charges. Two membranes would probably cost around USD 200 by courier. [Note: I believe these membranes are industry standard and can be ordered from other sources via the internet.]

Chemicals are even more expensive to forward, so I have attached their descriptions to this email. If you go to you will find at reseller I hope in your area.

It could be a little tricky to get the old membranes out, pending on where your pressure vessels are installed. You would need at least 130 cm free space on any side, as the membrane itself is 120 cms long. Or you have to take out both the black pressure vessels and exchange the membranes and put the package back. Also note the end caps (in white plastic) can break if you tight them to much on putting them back. The holes are cone-shaped. But if you are little bit of a handy man, it wouldn’t be too complicated. Only make sure you close down and start up again according to the manual.

MT-3200 Watermaker

Per Todd Rickard -- For storing the watermaker, use two clean five gallon buckets (single 10 if you have one).

1. Close the raw (sea) water inlet thru-hull.

2. Mix well the compound with the water in the bucket.

3. You should then find the service hose that is T'd into the feed line between the thru-hull inlet and the feed pump. Typically these are in the cabinet that is located in the passageway to the aft cabin, above the engine. Use the feed hose to "suck" the solution into the system, and the discharge hose to bring it back (circulate).

4. If there is a discharge hose that circulates the water back, make sure you leave a gallon or two of space in the buckets for water that is already in the system (nothing like overflowing a bucket of solution into your boat).

5. Run this in circulation for 10 minutes per bucket, or 20 minutes if using one container. If you don't have a return discharge hose, then the solution will flow out of the boat through the discharge thru-hull. This is OK, but not quite as good. Run for the time limit, or until the bucket(s) is(are) empty.

6. As soon as the time limit is done, or solution gone, turn off the pump and close all valves to secure the solution in the system.

7. Ensure that the only pump that runs during this procedure is the low-pressure feed pump. [THIS IS INCORRECT, SHOULD BE THE HP PUMP IS WHAT RUNS wck]

8. This storage compound is typically good for about 5-6 months. Before next use, make sure you flush with either fresh or seawater for 20-30 minutes before attempting to make water.

Per MT Manual

1. Close feedwater thru hull

2. Close feedwater valve

3. Open pressure regulating valve fully

4. Turn salinity off = product flow to waste

5. One bottle MT8 (or MT5) / 40 liters of carbon-filtered water (to remove chlorine)

6. Close flushwater valve

7. Start high pressure pump

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