WINDOWS



WINDOWS

Date: Mon, 30 Mar 1998 10:36:04 -0500

From: "Bartz, Paul"

Subject: GMC: RE: Covers for front windows

Ralph:

I have one that goes over the outside of the windshield and driver and passenger side windows. It's perforated material so you can see out of it from the inside. Just the opposite at night with lights on inside the coach.

It cuts down the heat buildup through the glass very well. Came with both Velcro and snap mounting systems. I used the snaps, as the Velcro mounts adhere to the body of the coach and stand out like a sore thumb due to their size.

If you have wind wings, the cover can be made to accommodate them.

I got it from Chandler of Palm Springs, in CA. You should be able to find their ad in the back pages of the FMCA magazine or call 800 information. If that doesn't work, let me know and I have the number at home.

Paul Bartz

> -----Original Message-----

> From: Ralph Edelbach [SMTP:edelbach#TCNJ.EDU]

> Sent: Monday, March 30, 1998 10:01 AM

> Subject: GMC: Covers for front windows

>

> HI GMCers:

>

> Now that hot weather has arrived, at least for a few days, I'm getting ready to order some covers/shades for the front windows. Seen the ones which go over the outside as well as those which fasten against the windows on the inside.

>

> Any suggestions about either one and good sources to check-out will be appreciated.

> Thanks and happy motoring.

Date: Sun, 26 Apr 1998 00:11:47 -0400 (EDT)

From: "Thomas G. Warner"

Subject: GMC: WIND NOISE

Took first 450-mile trip yesterday in my first GMC motorhome and heard lots of windnoise around the front windows. Is this normal or is there someway to reduce it. Am I incorrect in assuming that much of it comes from the outside mounted rearview mirrors? Is there a better and quieter outside mirror available? Any help will be appreciated.

Date: Sun, 26 Apr 1998 17:18:32 EDT

From: CHill113

Subject: Re: GMC: WIND NOISE

You may be getting some wind noise from the sliding windows. Mine had a tendency to slide open slightly and leak air. The original window locks left something to be desired. I solved the problem by getting quarter inch or five eighths wooden dowel sticks and cutting to the right length to wedge between the bottom of the window and the front. I found I needed to put a screw in on the other end for it to wedge against. No air leaks now. You may also have worn window channels.

Date: Mon, 25 May 1998 09:09:26

From: hdavis#

Subject: GMC: Window Track Lubricant?

I have replaced the felt track material in the driver's and passenger side windows they move great. However, the two movable windows in the living area do not slide well. In order to get them to move, one person stands on the outside to help move the window while another on the inside pulls the handle. It then slides OK for a short distance and then binds. I've cleaned a bunch of dirt out of the plastic tracks but it doesn't seem to have helped much. How do I tell if I need to replace the tracks? Is there a lubricant that should be used on the tracks? (I can't find a mention of this in the manuals).

Thanks,

Henry

Henry Davis Consulting, Inc / new product consulting

Hi Henry,

I would suggest using Silicone spray...I haven't used it on my GMC (only owned it for three days) but I have installed hundreds of sliding windows and doors in houses. That's what We use to spray the tracks. Talking about windows.... Mine need new seals, weatherstrip, etc. Anybody recondition these on there own? What does the job entail? My glass looks good except for a slight haze around the outer edges. If I tint the glass will that hide the haze? How easy is it to remove the windows and frames?

Thanks,

Rob

Date: Mon, 25 May 1998 16:16:23

From: "Thomas G. Warner"

Subject: RE: GMC: Window Track Lubricant?

I understand from the manual that you can replace the seals without removing the windows. Golbys, cinnabar and Gateway have the material.

Thomas

You are right you can replace the seals without removing the window in theory. 3 of my windows had shifted from there original position. They are still not sealed well. None of my windows will move because someone shot silly cone into the seals to fix leaks. Looking for a different windows. Anybody got any good ideas. BTW Jim Bounds has the seals also. Patrick has the pics.

Take Care

Arch

We have re-channelled all of our windows. It is a easy but tedious job. For this job you do not have to remove the window, it is a push, pull and slide type job. It took the two of us to work as a team. We took an old piece of the channelling and had our local RV store match it. One of our mistakes was on one of the front windows. We did not clean the track really well, and it does not slide easy. We must have left a clump or some in the track.

Also a friend of ours that work for a car dealership says that really fine steel wool will remove haze on glass. Even though our windshield has haze around the edges, we have not tried this.

'73 Painted Desert

Les & Des mailto:lesndes#

Date: Tue, 26 May 1998 11:51:24

From: "Thomas G. Warner"

The haze on the glass is between the laminates. It can sometimes be removed by using two household irons one on each side. Haven't tried it yet, got this information from my brother who claims to have done it before. He works for General Motors. Irons on low heat will relaminate the glass to the strip of plastic between the glass.

I pulled my front side windows out last week and redid everything including the channel. The windows came out easily after all the trim was removed (not so easy and a pain in the a**). The windows glass, frame and every where else imaginable had been sealed, resealed and done

again with sill(y)cone. I disassembled the frame, glass and rubber gasket material carefully, removed all RTV crap and started fresh. 3M makes a great urethane glass sealer for use on windows. An auto paint store should have it in tubes for a caulking gun, about $10.00 a tube

but well worth it. I used the urethane sealer in the rubber channel to seal the channel to the glass and in the aluminum frame to seal the rubber to the frame. This worked well, but you need to use the sealer sparingly so as not to get it all over everything.

I then put a small bead of 3M Windoweld ribbon sealer around the opening to seal the frame to the coachwork. The ribbon sealer is about 1/4 inch in diameter (too thick) so you have to pull it like taffy to make it smaller 1/8 of a bead. Then put the frame in and adjust as needed. The

ribbon sealer remains pliable and soft to retain a seal and you can shift the frame slowly to get an exact fit.

This approach is time consuming but makes for a tight new seal. Silicone merely patches and over the years gives way and looks like #####. The new products to seal windows and leaks for autos is great stuff and there are a number of 3M products made specifically for the process. Use RTV in the bathroom and not on your auto windows. The bathroom dose not flex and move like our coaches do and silly cone does not fair well in that environment. 3M also makes a strip caulk for sealing all sorts of windows, light joints, body joints and small holes. The cost for a box (20 yds) again is around $10. If any one wants part #s let me know. A good auto paint supplier will have all of the goodies for window and leak repair. Just ask when it is slow. Afternoons between 2 and 4 during the middle of the week is good. Bring the coach and they love to come out and give all sorts of advice.

Marcus

Folks:

Has anyone on this net tried either of the above methods to remove this haze?

It is my understanding that the problem is caused by UV deterioration of the plastic laminate between the glass, a process similar to the oxidation that turns white plastic headliners yellow over time. Haze is fortunately not such an issue with newer windows which have laminates containing relatively effective UV inhibitors, but in the 1970's...well, plastics were still being perfected and heat & light eventually hazes those laminates.

However, it would be a real pleasure to find a method to remove this haze.... other than the expensive one of replacing entire windows!

Anneke

Houston

I haven’t tried this fix yet. But I will try it when I get the coach home to work on it. I think I will try using two hair dryers first as I think the irons may not work good because of the curvature of

the glass. However, I think its worth a try and I don’t think the heat will harm anything.

Rob

Rob,

The channel is the felt piece your window slides through in the frame. It is placed top, bottom and sides using one long piece of channeling. You do not have to remove the outer frame to accomplish this task.

Have fun.

'73 Painted Desert

Les & Des

I have been following your info seek for several days and have seen some good advise being given. In that light, I thought I would chime in with some helpful info.

If you refelt the driver & pass. sliders, I have found it prudent to remove the vertical bar on the edge of the slider and trim off an 8th of an inch or so to assure it does not drag on the felt and make it difficult to move. Take a 2x4, hold it against the edge of the trim and hit the wood with a hammer to push it off of the glass. Reins. it with the same wood block.

For the stop for the driver/pass. slider glass, turn a section of the felt over and install it at the end of the slider traveland up the back radiused corner to the top of the back corner of the fixed glass. That sure sounds complicated! Call me at work tomorrow if it was confusing.

As I believe ARCH said earlier, you will probably find 1 or more windows shifted forward. If so, you need to reset them with new butyl rubber tape. Drill an 8th" hole at the top & bottom of the vertical bar between the 2 pieces of glass and pop rivet it in place. Many coaches already have this but some do not. This keeps the fixed glass from shifting out of its position.

I have just gotten in the felt material which fits in the vertical bar. It is special in that it has 2 plastic seals in between the felt which help keep out water & wind. I had lost the part # for some time and have just recently researched & found it again. Call me if you need some, its cheap!

I also have a modified latch for the side windows that seems to work pretty well for late style windows. Golby has available latches for the driver/ pass. and early style windows.

If you need the screw/washer fasteners for the driver/pass. windows, I give those out for free, call me.

Jim Bounds

Date: Fri, 29 May 1998 19:10:52

From: "Mark Grady"

Subject: RE: GMC: Windshield Sun Screens (reply)

I'll look to see where, but I have a set we got years ago. They fit on the interior, and stick fast to Velcro that goes inside the windshield. They fit the front windshields and the back window.

We don't use them as much after we tinted the windows with 'limousine' type window tint. I actually am probably breaking the law in some states, but I double applied the tint, which does an excellent job. (All sides and back, but not the windshield.)

We kept only the sliding curtain behind the front seats, and use Plexiglas valances and accordion pleated shades on the side windows. During the day, all shades are in the stowed and locked and position, which gives a great view. The tint reduces heat gain, and keeps the interior private.

The only thing I'd change is that I used a smoke colored tint, and I'd opt for maybe something more reflective, (silvered) if I had a do over. I think that would even further reduce heat gain by reflecting it, rather than making the glass get thermally hot because it's dark colored.

I'd see if you can find a patio door type of heat reflective film rather than the automotive style, and if its not dark enough, put another layer on about a week later.

It works fine, you just need to be careful when you put it on. No cutting on the glass.

Good luck.

Mark

Date: Fri, 29 May 1998 19:30:37

From: hdavis#

Subject: RE: GMC: Windshield Sun Screens (reply)

3M makes a high performance "bronze" tint that is twice as effective at reflecting light (and particularly those wavelengths most responsible for heat) as compared to the smoke tint. I just had one vehicle done with the bronze tint and it works very well. Now I just have to convince my wife that it's a good investment for the GMC.

Henry

Henry Davis Consulting, Inc / new product consulting

Date: Sat, 30 May 1998 10:47:31

From: "Ralph D. Edelbach"

Subject: Re: GMC: Windshield Sun Screens

I'm getting ready to order two items from Camping World to keep the sun out of my coach. They are:

#1 Reflectix Insulation available in 2' X 20' and 4' X 20' rolls. Their customer service person told me it is a sandwich of metalized polyester surfaces with a layer of 5/8" bubble pack in between. I plan to put it in between my slat type shades and the windows, attached with velcro. Their phone is 800/TRYFOIL and web page . Other vendors may carry it as well although I'm going to buy from Camping World. The 4' X 20' roll is part number # 12233 and lists for about $20.00.

#2 Compact RV Twist Shade White Dupont Tyvek sping loop shade stands up to the sun to help keep your RV cooler. Collapses to 1/10 of its fully extended size of 42" high X 96" wide. Two

piece design for full coverage of Class A windshields. $17.97. Part number is 12769.

Date: Tue, 2 Jun 1998 16:49:55 -0700

From: "Heinz Wittenbecher"

Subject: GMC: Looking for feedback on replacing Window seals & channeling

My windows are rattling really bad now and I'm tired of looking at cardboard pieces stuffed in as silencers so I'm considering redoing the seals (rubber) and also the tracks. I'm assuming I'll be able to get new tracks at Cinnebar, will be calling them tomorrow.

The question is really to try and establish how big an undertaking it is. Never having done any glass stuff I'm a little apprehensive about getting in over my head.

I have the rubber seal. What is used to hold it in? I'm assuming some kind of silicone sealer gets involved?

Any hints/experiences greatly appreciated.

Heinz

'76 Transmode

Date: Tue, 2 Jun 1998 20:17:05 -0400 (EDT)

From: "Thomas G. Warner"

Subject: Re: GMC: Looking for feedback on replacing Window seals & channeling

Heinz, the tracks are easy to put in and can be bought from Gateway, Cinnabar, or Alex Sirum.

Date: Tue, 02 Jun 1998 23:21:38 -0700

From: Jim Bounds

Subject: Re: GMC: Looking for feedback on replacing Window seals & channeling

Heinz,

The rubber seal is held in by the lock flaps on the bottom of the trim. Don't worry about getting in over your head, you don't have to go to the deep end of the pool to dive into this project. Give me a call and I'll step you through it.

Jim Bounds Heinz Wittenbecher wrote:

Heinz;

DO NOT USE SILL(Y)ICONE SEALER ON YOUR COACH WINDOWS!

Sorry about yelling but silicone is not meant for that. Get some 3M products that are made for glass sealing. They make all sorts of urethane sealers that go on with a caulking gun, some sealing caulk that is pliable and sold in strips that you can apply by hand and stays soft and pliable. These materials are meant for auto glass and are great. They can be purchased at most auto paint dealers. They come in multiple colors and some can be painted. 3M products cost more but you will not have to redo the job in a few years or try to find that leak you thought you had fixed.

I just removed my front side windows and redid everything. They were not bad to remove but be careful with the glass. The frames on wine came apart reasonably well except for two broke screws in the aluminum extrusions. If you take them apart use some WD or similar on the screws first and let it sit. Also to prevent stripping get some screw grabber compound from Sears. A drop or two on the driver really grabs the head well and will prevent you from stripping the screw.

If you want some further tips give me a call.

Marcus

Date: Tue, 02 Jun 1998 11:45:07 -0400

From: "Ralph D. Edelbach"

Subject: GMC: Windshield covers??

I'm getting ready to buy a set of covers to go over the outside of the windshield of my coach. Any suggestions for a good, reliable vendor or other thoughts to share? Snaps, velcro or twist-locks?

The ones I've seen have a 85% sunblock level. Is that sufficient for daytime? What about being able to see through them from the outside at night? I suppose the interior curtains can be used if we don't want any univited, non-paying spectators! Thanks for the info.

Ralph Edelbach, '74 Glacier

-----------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Jun 1998 16:37:03 -0400

From: "Bartz, Paul"

Subject: RE: GMC: Windshield covers??

Arch:

I got the same one for the windshield about four years ago and opted for snaps also. They included the Velcro, but it would look like a sore thumb since the Velcro patches are about 2" square. Found I didn't need the rear window cover, so sent it back.

Besides the privacy aspect, the front cover drastically reduces the solar heat gain. Don't see how anyone puts up with the heat gain otherwise? Even the birds like it for you know what!

Paul Bartz

> Ralph

>

> Can't tell you how long they will last. I just got mine today from The RV Toy Store. I ordered them about a week ago. The front one covers the side windows. The lady even asked me if I planned to put on windwings. I told her maybe----she said they would be glad to do them so I could add windwings later if I wanted to. No Charge--so I did. Total charge for both front and rear plus shipping was $216.50---they threw in 2 wiper blade covers too.

> The main reason I went with them was their snaps are stainless steel not chromed steel which will rust. I like snaps---In cold weather twists can freeze. In the rain I can do a jerk-and-run with snaps. Velcro has a way of collecting everything around it. Once the hooks on velcro collect a lot of stuff the don't hold as well. I can't tell you a lot more yet UPS just delivered them 1/2 hour ago.

>

> Take Care

> Arch

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Jun 1998 13:46:58 -0500

From: "Chuck Blanford"

Subject: Re: GMC: Windshield covers??

Arch

Do you have a phone number for the RV Toy Store, and item number for the windshield cover?

Thanks

Chuck

Chuck

1-800-334-5533 The item # is listed GMC 76 wind color white snaps

Sorry that's what it says under item #

Take Care

Arch

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 4 Jun 1998 23:59:44 -0500 (CDT)

From: hdavis#

Subject: GMC: Window Tinting

A number of folks have e-mailed me asking for information on distributors of the 3M high performance window tinting film I mentioned in an earlier post.

The bronze window tint material RE20BRARL provides a 46% reduction in heat transfer due to sunlight. Most professional installers would call this a medium tint, and it can not be applied to the front windows on either side in some states (such as California). A lower density material is approved for the two front windows: RE35BRARL.

I have found a dealer who is willing to sell me tinting material in large quantity at a discount. If there is enough interest I am willing to aggregate orders to purchase tinting in 100 foot rolls, cut it into sections and send smaller pieces to those who order it.

I plan on ordering the tinting in a 40 inch width that should handle the largest windows in the GMC (the back). The maximum that I measured on my coach was a 32 inch height, so there's plenty of room for excess on the one side. It takes about 24 feet of the medium tint and 3 feet of the light tint to complete my Palm Beach. I think that I can buy the film for $6.00 per linear foot - including taxes, you pay shipping from my offices to your location.

If anyone is interested, measure your windows to verify the amount that you would need and let me know. If I can get enough people to order, I'll buy in bulk and split it up. If not, I'll see if the dealer can put together some packages (probably at a higher price) to do the GMC.

BTW, the quotes that I've received from installers for the same tinting is over $600 for the GMC using the high efficiency film. Any other quotes out there?

Please let me know by private e-mail if you are interested in buying tint for your GMC. I think that the cost will be about $170 for the materials plus shipping. The dealer said that they will provide me with detailed installation instructions. The basic set that they sent me is simple.

Henry

Henry Davis Consulting, Inc / new product consulting

Date: Fri, 05 Jun 1998 22:11:54 -0700

From: Jim Bounds

Subject: Re: GMC: Window Tinting

Henry,

I think it a very good gesture purchasing the 40" roll of film and dividing it up for interested parties. I have owned several tinting businesses, one under the "Sears" concession network carrying 3M brand film and can attest the merits of window tint. The reflective film you refer to is primarily designed to block heat by reflecting it off the glass as opposed to filtering and absorbing the heat as colored filter film does.

A 100ft. roll of 40" reflective film seems a bit high at $600.00 though. I was a 3M franchised dealer and realize you must pay more if you want the 3M logo on the box. I actually closed out my franchise when the 3M film topped 100% more than other premium brands of film.

The color on the side windows of the GMC, excluding the "A" frame, has a 35% rating. My experience tinting GMC's is that another layer of 35% on those windows will equal the darkness of a 20% film on the "A" frame glass which is pretty much clear. 20% film coupled with the 35% color already in the side glass ends up a bit dark and you do not need it dark to reject the heat. In most states, motorhomes can have 20% on the side windows. The tint rule is primarily directed at cars and trucks and most have a loop hole for vehicles such as limos, motorhomes & trailers.

Have you looked into pricing of other premium brands of film. From my local supplier, if I remember correctly, I pay # $350.00 for a similar roll of metalised scratch resistant film, I will check my files tomorrow at the shop.

I've heard all the quality stories of 3M, actually I was one of the ones touting them. I will tell you though from being in the business that 3M film is a bit overrated with regard to other good films that are available. Also, the bronze film you referred to leaves the windows with a sort of brown color. I would suggest a neutral colored film which leaves the glass with a leaded crystal color. With the 35% smoke color of the side windows, the neutral film seems to match better.

Access to the film is not really even half the battle, the most expensive film in the world will not look good and last unless it is properly installed!

Our windows are mostly flat except for the "A" frame which have a bit of a compound curve. Even though, I would not suggest attempting installation without a good tinting lesson. Tint acts kind of like wall paper, you must pattern the pieces in a certain sequence, clean the surface and stick the film exactly right then squeegy out the water from the center out. Sounds easy right? I wish that were so. After a couple of frustrating tries, many people end up with a pile of wrinkled film all stuck together making up new words for their feeling toward the tinting!

If you still want to purchase the 3M film, I would be happy to share installation techniques with the group, I would suggest though, investigating other brands of film.

If enough people would like, I would be happy to do a hands on seminar at the Marion Rally on tinting techniques. Anyone interested, please let me know soon and I'll call Ralph to try and set it up. If you pick up the 3M film now, hang onto it until then. By the way, do not pinch or roll up the film too tight, that could damage the film at the very least make it a ----- to install.

If you decide to look at other films, let me know and I'll price 100' rolls of 40" film for you here.

Sorry, I didn't chime in before now on this subject, but I missed the Emails. I guess I fell into the trap of only looking at subjects I was working with. I would be happy to help you with this project.

Jim Bounds

Date: Fri, 5 Jun 1998 23:38:48 -0500 (CDT)

From: hdavis#

Subject: Re: GMC: Window Tinting

That's why I like the bronze. At least in the 3M line it has the best heat rejection of any of their films at the same opacity. (it's better by about 50% as compared to the smoke) The price includes tax (which I pay since I'm not a reseller in Calif.), shipping to me, packaging materials and a small allowance for waste. I received a new quote from the distributor today for $459.55 per 100' roll of the low e film. Shipping gets tacked on top of that. Also, the distributor seems willing to sell smaller lots to individuals, but I don't have a price yet. That would allow people who want a specific color for which we can't get enough interest to still consider doing the tinting themselves.

I'm always open to alternatives. I don't have the technical details on other films. If you have some, I'd love to get copies.

What sort of price range did you charge (or would you charge) to tint a GMC?

>Have you looked into pricing of other premium brands of film.

When I had my daughter's car tinted I looked at a large number of film samples at a number of tint shops. I selected the bronze because it was superior in heat rejection by a good margin. I mentioned this film here on the list and a number of people asked for more information. That's why I offered to get some bulk rolls.

Great! I'm always interested in saving some money providing that the material does the same job. In the dozens of films that I looked at the 3M stood out by a wide margin for heat rejection. Since that was my primary goal the decision was easy.

I personally don't find the very slight brown tint to be objectionable. But then I am partially color blind. My wife who is not color blind likes the tint. Guess it's a matter of personal preference and coach color scheme.

I would suggest a neutral colored film which leaves the glass with a leaded crystal color. With the 35% smoke color of the side windows, the neutral film seems to match better.

>

> Access to the film is not really even half the battle, the most expensive film in the world will not look good and last unless it is properly installed!

That's another story! I've done small tints, but nothing as large as the back window of the GMC. The distributor who will sell the 3M material says that they will provide complete installation instructions. But, as you say, doing and watching/reading are two different things.

The numbers that I posted are a bit pessimistic so that I think there'll be some extra to experiment with first.

Any suggested brands?

Would you mind? I don't have any particular brand loyalty, but would like to get a good performing tint for heat rejection.

Henry Davis Consulting, Inc / new product consulting

Date: Fri, 12 Jun 1998 05:27:06 -0700

From: Jim Bounds

Subject: Window Tint

For those that were interested, I am purchasing a 40"x 100ft. roll of metalised film today to install tint in a coach I am restoring.

If you would like some, give me a call. The film cost is $3.70 a running foot. This film uses no dye that causes fading.

This company explained that any colored film, such as bronze, used a dye to color it and would be susseptable to fade. This is a premium grade, scratch resistant film and I feel will do the job of reducing heat in the coach. It is a 32% darkness which means it would not be dark when put on the side windows.

If I can help further, please give me a call. 1-877-275-4462

Jim Bounds ww.

Date: Thu, 25 Jun 1998 01:14:15 -0500 (CDT)

From: hdavis#

Subject: Window Tint Source

Last week I offered to buy window tinting in bulk and redistribute to anyone who was interested. Since we haven't been able to make up enough of an order to buy in roll quantity, here's a distributor who will sell you the amount that you want, in the color that you chose:

A-Design Energy Control

(310) 540-6399 phone

(310) 540-4448 fax

or you can go to their web site:



I have NOT purchased from them - caveat emptor.

Henry

Date: Thu, 25 Jun 1998 23:45:15 -0700

From: Jim Bounds

Subject: Re: GMC: Window Tint Source

Henry,

As I said in previous posts, having the film is one thing, getting it on the windows is another. If anyone would like to tackle the job, I would be happy to offer some install tips. Filming your windows really does help heat management, especially with as much glass as we have! Let me know if I can help.

Jim Bounds

a. Are your side windows (including the sliders and above) and rear window tinted? If not, you are getting a tremendous heat gain through them. You should consider installing a dark, REFLECTIVE, I repeat reflective type , tinting film installed on them to reject the solar heat gain and lower the workload on your roof A/C unit.

Date: Thu, 13 Aug 1998 23:07:51 +0100

From: "Donald W. Miller"

Subject: Re: GMC: redoing interior

A good window tint is 3m Scotchtint Plus All Season. Amber (LE35AMARL) is advertised to reduce summer heat gain by 73% and winter heat loss by 30%. It is a construction material rather than automotive.

Our boat got a similar insulation treatment several years ago and became much more comfortable in both summer and winter. In that instance the improvement was easily worth the time and effort as we cruise in all seasons.

Date: Tue, 8 Sep 1998 23:45:05 -0400

From: "robteed"

Subject: Re:GMC: Window Track Felt???

OK, I know this has been asked before.... I need the Window track stuff ( Felt In Think ). My old windows had metal spring looking stuff???

I need enough for cab windows, Two Living area windows ( Large ) and Two bedroom Windows (small). Also, I'm trying to stop leaks...Pulled one of the bedroom windows out. Tried putting waterproof weather strip (Stuff used for Pickup bed liners) on then reinstalled the window. The screws on the window retaining bracket striped out before the window got a tight seal....Should I use bigger diameter screws???? I thought about silly-cone, but I think its too hard to remove windows after that. I need a paint job in the spring so thinking ahead. I pulled one of the metal drip edges off the exterior seam. What a mess! The foam had disintegrated. I broke a screw off. Do I remove it or just put one beside it? What was the material used on that seam. Looked alot like bondo ...Was really pliable.

Thanks,

Rob Teed

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 9 Sep 1998 00:38:41 -0400

From: "Steven A. Smith"

Subject: GMC: FW: Window Track Felt???

- -----Original Message-----

Sent: Tuesday, September 08, 1998 9:16 PM

Subject: RE: GMC: Window Track Felt???

Rob,

The window felt can be purchased at Cinnabar Engineering (800-720-2227) or Gateway (800-654-0374). I don't know about the Gateway stuff, but the Cinnabar is a rubber type felt, w/o the spiral liner. I'm happy with it.

Windows: you might try a helicoil insert to repair the stripped hole. You should be able to get a set at any good hardware store. I've never been into a side window frame, etc. but if they use machine screws, then a helicoil insert should work.

Sealant: I wouldn't recommend silicone on anything. The stuff ought to be banned from the face of the earth. Use it and you will be have it lifting at the surface inside a year. I use 3M brand 5200 marine adhesive sealant. It is a urethane sealant and will last forever and will stick forever to anything. (Yes - this is a plug for 3M - they supported my family for 35+ years) It is a moisture cure, so in dry areas (like Phoenix) it will take days to fully cure. In Texas, a day will do it. But then, behind a window, you may not care. My only worry has been to keep the bugs/dust out of it while it dries. A boat shop should carry it if you can't get it at Lowe's or Home Depot. I paid about $10.00 a tube. A warning - if you use this - the seal will last forever but if you ever need to get the window frame out again, you will tear it up or have to cut it out! I can 't imagine why you might ever need to do that, but just in case. Perhaps you may want to use it when/if you take out the windows for painting the coach.

Good luck,

Steve

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Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 20:48:46 EDT

From: Gcbr#

Subject: Re: GMC: Water Leaks

In a message dated 98-09-21 07:45:42 EDT, you write:

>

Ed

I am using a caulk called C-10 It is one of the new hyplon rubber caulks. I have had very good luck with it for 2 years on my other motorhome. I would also make a suggestion here. I was chasing phantom leaks that I could not find. It turned out not to be a need of caulking at all. It was where the window is sealed to the window frame. The old black tar like substance just was not cutting it. Every window on my coach had areas that had pulled away from the frame. Two of my windows had about a pound of silly-cone on them. Finally gave up and took out all of the windows. Put them back in with 3M Windo-Weld. I pitty the next person who wants to take out the windows. That stuff hardens up and really holds the glass. Another thing I found was some one had replaced the track on the big drivers side window over the couch. When they did they did not cut the drain slots in the track. It would just fill and run in.

Hope this helps. And yes Patrick has the pics.

Take Care

Arch

Date: Tue, 6 Oct 1998 10:29:59 -0500

From: "Hatter, Ed"

Subject: GMC: Window Seals

I found some water leaks in the last couple of rain storms while working on the inside of the coach. The motorhome has sit with the right side facing south for twenty years and the rain appears to be leaking around the window frames on that side. I have the trim molding taken off. What do I use to seal the windows around the frame and the felt around the glass?

Ed Hatter

73 260 GMC

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Date: Tue, 6 Oct 1998 11:46:54 -0400

From: "Bartz, Paul"

Subject: RE: GMC: Window Seals

Ed:

Last year I replaced my windows and used a soft, black butyl type sealant tape that I purchased at a local RV dealer. It is approximately 3/4s of an inch wide and an 1/8 of an inch thick. It was ................
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