PDF By Marty aka Topper

[Pages:4]Repairing Split Cracked Stocks

By Marty aka "Topper"

Article #32 ? June 5, 2006

Here's a technique for repairing split or cracked gun stocks that provides the best result I have yet to find. First, the area of repair should be dry and free of any debris. I suggest you plan a day when the humidity is low to begin the project. If there are loose splinters of wood on the surface area, be careful not to break them off. Once aligned and glued, they will aid in hiding the damaged areas. Materials required are a compressed air, slow set (60min) epoxy glue, several padded clamps, a thin/flat applicator for the glue, tooth picks, surgical or bicycle tire tubing, paint thinner, and an ample supply of clean rags. In this project, I used a vacuum motor that's reversed for drying my dog as a source for compressed air. Here's a rifle stock that is in dire need of repair.

If you don't have access to surgical tubing, pick up some old bicycle tubing and cut it lengthwise into half inch strips. It will be used to wrap the stock with after the glue has been applied. Use the tooth picks to carefully spread the smaller areas without splitting the wood further. The size of the repair will determine how much epoxy is needed, but you can always mix more using the slow set type. I use coated advertisement paper to mix the glue on, which can be folded and discarded when finished applying the epoxy. Use the applicator, a thin piece of formica works for me, and apply epoxy mix to all reachable areas. On the small, thin cracks, squeegee as much glue as you can from one side only. Now use the compressed air to spread the epoxy throughout the cracks and splits, blowing from one side only. This removes the excess and helps to distribute the epoxy evenly. This removes the excess and helps to distribute the epoxy evenly. should be able to see the epoxy ooze out of the opposite side, paying special attention to ensure it pushes through the other side on the small cracks/splits of the stock. If it doesn't, squeegee more glue into the same crack and hit it again with the compressed air. Wipe off the excess epoxy with a clean rag and a small amount of paint thinner, and then apply

the compressed air opposite the side you initially started from. Again, you should see some epoxy oozing out and will need to wipe off the excess.

Using a padded wood clamp on the two flattest surfaces, slowly tighten the clamp while frequently checking alignment (do not completely tighten at this point). Clean off all epoxy that surfaced. Take one stripe of tubing and split it at one end about 4 to 6 inches. Start with the unsplit end begin wrapping an area of the stock that has an uneven surface, difficult to clamp. You do not want to cover a large area, 1 to 2 inches is plenty, but you do want to increase the pressure/tension dramatically with each wrap. You should see the more glue oozing out and the cracked spaces closing. Once tight, use the split ends for tying/securing the wrap.

(Note: On areas that had surface splinters, make sure these splinter are aligned and lightly start your wrap to cover them without disturbing position. With each wrap, apply more and more pressure).

Now you can use a clamp on this area, the tubing will prevent the clamp from slipping. Tighten this clamp securely. Follow this procedure in other areas of the stock until the damaged areas are closed tightly. It's okay to space the clamps, but be sure that all split areas are completely closed. Clean of excess epoxy and allow 24 hours curing time.

Once epoxy is completely set (24hrs), remove clamps and tubing. Some tubing will tear off from the epoxy adhering to it. This is removed by careful scraping with a sharp short blade knife, making sure not to cut the wood or chatter the blade of the knife on the stock. This particular stock had a lacquer type finish. The finish was completely removed by careful scrapping.

(Note: Most likely, oil based finishes will require touch up only)

Here's what it looked like after the repair and scraping process.

Special note on reinforcing weak areas: Pinning is sometimes unavoidable (thin areas or complete breaks) if you want a permanent repair, and it's near impossible to get a wood dowel to match the color of the stock. If you use a wood dowel to pin the area, use hardwood and select a drill bit the same size as the dowel.

Exotic wood dowels would be my choice for a real nice stock. I have used brass rods that I filed groves into for a better metal to wood grip in combination with the adhesive. Using the same size drill bit, drill a hole into or through the stock, which ever is required for the particular crack, apply epoxy to the pin and drive it in with a hammer. Be sure not to hit the stock with the hammer. Once the epoxy has set, cover it and the surrounding stock with masking tape and allow the brass only to poke a hole through the tape. This protects the stock when filing and sanding the pin flush with the tape. Then the final touch-up or refinishing of the stock will be used to make the pin flush with the stock.

For refinishing or touch-up, use the technique outline in TCDave's article "Finishing Laminated Stocks". I have not used Dave's formula, but I'm confident it works well. The formula used for this stock I used a 50/50 mixture of boiled linseed oil and paint thinner, since I already had it on hand. I prefer the oil finishes, simply because they are easier to touch up. Water marks caused from for extended periods exposure to wet weather are less hassle than permalyn or other lacquer type finishes I've have used. Using Dave's prescribed sanding method, this was the end results.

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