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Gymnázium Jozefa Gregora Tajovského Banská BystricaFashion Styles since 1910’sEtela Zdechovanová3.C2016/2017Contents TOC \o "1-3" \u Introductions PAGEREF _Toc482705390 \h 41 Theoretical part PAGEREF _Toc482705391 \h 51.1 1910’s PAGEREF _Toc482705392 \h 51.1.1 Women’s fashion in 1910’s PAGEREF _Toc482705393 \h 51.1.2 Men’s fashion in 1910’s PAGEREF _Toc482705394 \h 51.2 1920’s PAGEREF _Toc482705395 \h 51.2.1 Women’s fashion in 1920’s PAGEREF _Toc482705396 \h 51.2.2 Men’s fashion in 1920’s PAGEREF _Toc482705399 \h 61.3 1930’s PAGEREF _Toc482705401 \h 71.3.1 Women’s fashion in 1930’s PAGEREF _Toc482705402 \h 71.3.2 Men’s fashion in 1930’s PAGEREF _Toc482705404 \h 81.4 1940’s PAGEREF _Toc482705405 \h 81.4.1 Women’s fashion in 1940’s PAGEREF _Toc482705406 \h 81.4.2 Men’s fashion in 1940’s PAGEREF _Toc482705408 \h 91.5 1950’s PAGEREF _Toc482705410 \h 101.5.1 Women’s fashion in 1950’s PAGEREF _Toc482705411 \h 101.5.2 Men’s fashion in 1950’s PAGEREF _Toc482705414 \h 101.6 1960’s PAGEREF _Toc482705417 \h 111.6.1 Women’s fashion in 1960’s PAGEREF _Toc482705418 \h 111.6.2 Men’s fashion in 1960’s PAGEREF _Toc482705421 \h 111.7 1970’s PAGEREF _Toc482705423 \h 121.7.1 Women’s fashion in 1970’s PAGEREF _Toc482705424 \h 121.7.2 Men’s fashion in 1970’s PAGEREF _Toc482705427 \h 121.8 1980’s PAGEREF _Toc482705429 \h 131.8.1 Women’s fashion in 1980’s PAGEREF _Toc482705430 \h 131.8.2 Men’s fashion in 1980’s PAGEREF _Toc482705432 \h 131.9 1990’s PAGEREF _Toc482705434 \h 131.9.1 Women’s fashion in 1990’s PAGEREF _Toc482705435 \h 131.9.2 Men’s fashion in 1990’s PAGEREF _Toc482705437 \h 141.10 2000’s PAGEREF _Toc482705438 \h 151.10.1 Women’s fashion in 2000’s PAGEREF _Toc482705439 \h 151.10.2 Men’s fashion in 2000’s PAGEREF _Toc482705441 \h 15 1.11 2010’s PAGEREF _Toc482705443 \h 161.11.1 Women’s fashion in 2010’s PAGEREF _Toc482705444 \h 161.11.2 Men’s fashion in 2010’s PAGEREF _Toc482705447 \h 172 Practical part18 2.1 Workflow PAGEREF _Toc482705449 \h 182.1.1 Choosing the right model PAGEREF _Toc482705450 \h 182.1.2 Purchase of the fabrics PAGEREF _Toc482705451 \h 182.1.3 Sketch and measurements PAGEREF _Toc482705452 \h 192.1.4 Measurement and cutting of the fabrics PAGEREF _Toc482705453 \h 192.1.5 Temporary stitching, patchwork and the first fitting PAGEREF _Toc482705454 \h 202.1.6 Sewing and second fitting PAGEREF _Toc482705455 \h 202.1.7 The Final outfit PAGEREF _Toc482705456 \h 21Conclusion22Summary23Resumé23Bibliography24Introductions Fashion plays an important role in a person’s life because it is considered as a factor of self-expression. The apparels and accessories that people wear help them to identify with a group of others - whether it is a lifestyle, profession, religion or other interests. Thus, the term ‘fashion’ has become synonymous with the overall growth of the human society as well. Several factors add to the evolution of fashion as a whole. It is a widely accepted fact that the rich and the famous, the political figures and royalty have always moved the seasonal trends of fashion. The advertising media also contributes equally to update us about the daily style checks. I?chose the topic fashion styles since 1910's for a?seminar work in my third grade at my high school. I?chose it because of my personal interest in fashion, but to gain new information as well. As they say, fine feathers make fine birds and I?wanted to enlighten myself, but also others as what people used to wear during the previous century. I have always been interested in fashion, I enjoy reading fashion magazines and watching videos about the development of fashion. Lots of people can think that this topic if mostly for people who are stuck-up, only care about how they look, what are the actual trends and how to be cool. But I?do not think this is necessarily true. I?think that fashion has had a?huge say in the development of the society as we know it today. For me, this topic is about history. In this work, I?will try to approach this issue closer.1 Theoretical part1910’sWomen’s fashion in 1910’s A new look in women's fashion developed in 1908 and carried over into the early 1910's. In 1908, the unnatural "S" figures that were pushed and pulled with bustles and corsets were replaced with a straight, natural figure. The waist was loosened, and a straight line was adopted. Additionally, the frills and flounces of the 1900's disappeared. This style remained the height of fashion until around 1915. Then, the hobble skirt was replaced with a full skirt cut just above the ankles. The V-neck was the popular neckline of the second half of the 1910's. Fuller skirt was quite appropriate for more casual, outdoor wear. As accessories, women usually wore belts and elegant hats. Popular were subtle floral patterns. By 1918, clothes became straighter and with less curves. The boyish look of the 1920's began to evolve during the late years of the 1910s. Men’s fashion in 1910’s Men wore sack suits. These were long, plain, loose fitting (some might say baggy) suit jackets with wide lapels and a one to three button closing. Sacks suits were usually 12-13 centimeters long (down to mid thigh) and either single or double breasted. Colour choices were dark navy, grey, green and occasionally brown. Fabrics were all wool with hints of striping, checks and plaid. The overall look was a box shape jacket with pants with roomy hips and legs that hung straight down to the ankles, slightly tapered and cuffed at the bottom. A matching waistcoat or vest, with or without lapels, was worn under the suit. The five button vest cut was mid chest, to be seen under the jacket. Most vests did not have lapels or collars, but they did have 4 slash pockets. Under the vest was a basic day shirt with wing tip, pointed, or round club collar.1920’sWomen’s fashion in 1920’s When the first world war ended in 1918, people finally stopped living in fear and uncertainty, and wanted to have fun. In the US, a?new music style began to rise in popularity – jazz, according to which, the typical period of the 20’s was named – the jazz age. There was an importantant breakthrought in women’s fashion – uncomfortable, long gowns, thick layers and huge hats were replaced by short coctail mini dresses. With that also helped fashion designer Coco Chanel, who shortened dresses and hair, propagated slim, boyish figure and also brought over elements from men’s fashion. Women’s fashion began to be mainly comfortable. New ideal of women’s beauty arose – short hair, slim, boyish figures, practical hairstyles, shortness of dresses, even tanned skin. Because every type of art is mutually dependent, a?new art avant garde genre, cubism, had a?great influence on fashion. It contributed to the strictness of the designs and popularity of the geometrical shapes in fashion. The most beloved colours were brown, grey, beige, white, and last but not least, elegant black. It was this period of time when the famous Little black dress, pearls as accesories and waves in short hair came to being. Headbands, flowers, men’s and women’s hats and bird’s feathers were also very popular hair accessories. center825500Picture no. 1 - Little Black Dress. Coco Chanel’s ?Model T dress?, Vogue Magazine, 1926.Men’s fashion in 1920’s 1920s men’s fashion was the start of menswear as we know it today. The essential part of a 1920s man’s wardrobe was his suit. For day, evening, office, or parties a man always wore a suit. The only exceptions were for blue collar workers, sport players or young teen and college men who dressed more casually. But even they owned suits and wore them with pride. What sets 1920’s men’s suits apart from other decades are the material and fit. Suits were mostly made of thick wool or a wool tweed and pants made of wool based flannel which made them heavier than today’s suit materials but lighter than the previous decades. The fit changed from a snug slim fit in the early years to a much looser boxy fit by the 1930s. Suit jackets were either single or double breasted and had 3 or 4 buttons up the front. The highness of the suit lapels is what really sets 1920’s suits apart from suits of other eras. Many suits feature two sets of flap pockets which is another characteristic of 1920’s suits not seen since. The colours, on the other hand, were similar to previous years: brown, blue, grey, and green. Patterns were unique which could be solid tone or big plaids, checks and even thick stripes in the summer. 1930’sWomen’s fashion in 1930’s The period of the 30’s was roughly marked by the economic crisis and the threat of war. The US government set the duty on the originals designs’ prizes up to 90 percent, although cotton cloth kaliko was not included, so naturally, the number of kaliko-made designs was increasing. French fashion production had been marked by the crisis, even though less than English or American, for it wasn’t industrialized as much. Neverthless, number of fashion houses began estabilishing boutiques with ready-made clothes to explore the possibilities on how to create even ?high fashion? cheaper. Clothes were in three sizes and women had to adjust them individually most of the time. The square shaped, knee lenght dresses became old-fashioned literally overnight. Skirts started to extend from the hips and sank down to ankle lenght. Waist rose up, was markedly thinner and highlighted by a?ribbon or a?belt. Long, narrow sleeves and defined shoulders boosted the elegance of the elongated sihlouette. Not only long dresses were fashionable again, so were hair. Favourite colour was mostly a combination of two – brown and pink, plum blue and turquoise, grey and dim blue. New artificial materials were discovered – vinyl, celophane, lainello, luvisca. Machine-made almuninium and silver jewelry were replaced by spectacular golden chains and gold-lined brooches. Men’s fashion in 1930’s 1930’s men’s clothing was inspired by broad shouldered and thin waist athletes, the athletic body seen on boxers and Superman became the ideal men’s shape. Suits were wide, pants were wide and shirt collars were also large. The styles narrowed through the decade to what we call a classic fit today. Clothing was full of colour and distinctive patterns. Plaids, checks, stripes mixed with solid colours. Initially, inspiration for menswear came from British Guard Officer’s overcoats. Their shoulder line spread past the natural shoulder to line up with the bicep. It was the era of men’s classic clothing.1940’s Women’s fashion in 1940’s The second World War had a?profound impact on the fashion industries of Europe and America and consequently on the design of clothing. With the German invasion of Paris in June 1940, the international capital of fashion became cut off from the rest of the world. Two years later, the British Board of Trade introduced the Utility Clothing Scheme, a?system of controls on the amount of fabric and number of trimmings used in clothing. The Incorporated Society of London Fashion Designers took on the task of creating a?prototype range of clothing which met these requirements, using minimal material and labour resources. Four basic lines were produced – coat, suit, dress and blouse – from which 32 individual designs were selected for manufacture. The look was simple yet stylish, with good proportions and lines. It incorporated padded shoulders, a?nipped-in waist and hems just below the knees. Textiles were also strictly controled. Because silk was needed to make parachutes, there was a?ban on its use for fashion. Nylon was not yet widely available, so manufactures offered stockings in rayon, cotton and wool. When these materials also became difficult to obtain, women stained their legs and drawing a?mock sem down the back of the calf. This stocking shortage helped to increase the popularity of pants. In attempt to counteract the severity of the Utility lines, dress fabrics were brightly coloured. Men’s fashion in 1940’scenter475234000 1940s men’s fashion was styled to make a man feel “bigger than life.” During 1941-1945, WWII fabric rations limited cloth to make suits but not style. Middle class men chose basic business suits that haven’t changed dramatically since the beginning of the century. The notorious Zoot Suit with its bright colours, baggy legs and long jackets was a complete deviation from the norm– an underground rebellion worn by inner city youth. What makes 1940’s men’s fashion unique to the decade is the cut of the clothes, the patterns and the stylistic details that demonstrated one’s patriotic support of his country (or lack there of). Most men kept their clothing from the 1930’s and wore them through the early 40’s. It was a sign of support for the war to be seen in your pre-war suits. War time clothing continued to influence men’s fashion design after the war by coping or modifying uniforms into civilian clothes. Trench coats, bomber jackets, knit undershirts, pea coats, chino pants, and aviator glasses all have roots in WWII military clothing. The biggest influence war time restrictions had on men was further introduction of casualness. Hawaiian shirts, for example were worn all day, and even nights, in the summer. Ironically, the very clothing that caused such turmoil during the war years, the Zoot Suit, was the single piece of fashion that influenced men’s post-war clothing. Men were eager to put the war behind them and embrace the clothing they were previously forbidden to wear.center125449Picture no. 2 – Zoot suits4000020000Picture no. 2 – Zoot suits1950’sWomen’s fashion in 1950’s In late 1940’s, french designer Christian Dior put Paris back at the centre of the fashion map with his first collection. The Corolle line, nicknamed The New Look, wasn’t new at all, more like exaggeration of the late 30’s. It symbolized hopes for better future. Throughout the 1950’s women wanted to appear mature, elegant and sophisticated. High fashion remained formal with etiquette demanding special clothes and accessories for every occasion. Make-up was heavy – a?pale base, rogued cheekbones, finely arched eyebrows accompanied by dark eyeliner, eyeshadow and mascara, lips were stained dark red. As the decade progressed, clothing became less structured and straighter in cut – a?development that can be seen subtly taking place in Dior’s collections of mid-decade, which included the H-line, A-line and Y-line. Teenage girls wore tight sweaters and cardigans over pointed brassières, with circular skirt held out stiffly by layers of nylon petticoats. Tight pants or jeans with oversize jumpers were also popular with both sexes as part of the art school look, which featured large quantities of black. Men’s fashion in 1950’s In the field of postwar menswear, the most dramatic development took place in Britain, where in 1953 young working-class men began to adopt the ?Edwardian style? of dress. The ?teddy boys? took this upper-class, somewhat dandified look – the chief elements of which were a?long draped jacket and narrow, drainpipe pants – and exaggerated it, adding crepe-soled shoes and narrow ?maverick? ties. What was important in this development was not the adoption of the upper-class style by the working class, but the fact that men from poor backrounds could now afford relatively expensive clothes and accesories and had the confidence to make them part of their own distinctive style. Hollywood film stars James Dean and Marlon Brando popularized jeans and the motorbike jackets and also transformed the T-shirt into a?fashionable item of clothing. There was a?vogue for sideburns and greased hairstyles. 1960’sWomen’s fashion in 1960’s The sixties were considered as the most revolutionary period in modern fashion’s history. It was also the last era of fashion dictation. 60’s can be split into two distinct periods. The first embrances the years 60-67, when fashion focused almost entirely on youth. The attention was mainly focused on legs, unlike in the last decades, which glorified chest and waist. The chief fashion story of the period was the miniskirt. Hemlines rose just above the knees in 1961, and by ’66 had reached the upper thights. Stockings were replaced by brightly coloured tights and underwear was reduced to panties and unstructured bras. The designer most often credited with introducing the ’mini’ was Mary Quant, who had opened her boutique Bazaar in London in 1955. British theatre, actors and singers were considered icons. As a?proof of their huge influenece, even the Queen herself showed her knees for the first time. Gabrielle Chanel was disgusted – she didn’t see woman’s knees as something she should be showing of. She despised the idea of fashion being influeced by street. New fashion materials were also introduced, such as PVC, acrylics and polyesters.One of the then-icons was a?schoolgirl model Lesley Hornby, also known as Twiggy. Despite the much publicized sexual revolution, young women often looked like children, in baby-doll dresses with puffed sleeves, schoolgirl pinafores and ubiquitous miniskirt. Women wore their hair either long and straight or cut short into bob or wedge. Foundation and lipstick were pale, eyes enlarged with eyeliner and dark eyeshadow. Men’s fashion in 1960’s Men’s clothing also recieved attention from inventive young designers in the 1960’s, becoming more informal, flamboyant and notably more colourful. ’Hipster ’ pants, high-collared shirts and ’kipper’ ties were fashionable. Jeans remained popular and denim was also used for shirts, jackets and hats.1970’sWomen’s fashion in 1970’s In the seventies, haute couture undeniably lost its domination. As European and American societies became increasingly multi-cultural, the clothes and hairstyles of Afro-Caribbean, Asian and African-American communities injected a?lively new ingredient into western fashion. In the late sixties, hemline dropped to mid-calf, a move resisted by many women, who continued to wear miniskirt. From ’71, shorts with bibs and straps – also known as ’hotpants ’ – offered an alternative to the mini. Trousers were cut very wide, into ’flares ’ – which subsequently became the chief symbol of the fashion of the period, were tight around the thights and widened fro the knee downward, or ’bags ’ – which were loose, reminiscent of the 1930’s. The disco madness brought flexible leggins made from lycro in various expressive colours, which flawlessly enveloped legs.The anarchic Punk style, which appeared in London in the mid-70’s, was to have an enormous impact on both streetwear and and high fashion. It was a?style which consciously sought to shock, combining – for both sexes – black tight trousers and striped mohair sweaters with customized leather jackets and heavy duty Doctor-Marten boots. Some female punks wore miniskirts with fishnet tights and stiletto-heeled shoes.Men’s fashion in 1970’s The early 70’s were a continuation of late 60’s hippie fashion. For men this particularly meant bell bottom jeans, tie dye shirts, and military surplus clothing. The most popular accessories of the early 1970’s for men were homemade, with necklaces, headbands, and bracelets being made from all-natural materials such as wood, hemp and flowers. By 1973, androgynous glam rock fashion had gone mainstream for young British people of both sexes. During the early 1970’s, the Northern soul and suedehead subcultures emerged in response to the psychedelic rock, Bohemian and hippie influences on the mainstream peacock mod subculture. Due to a resurgence in nostalgia for the 1950’s, the Teddy boy subculture made a comeback in the UK during the early 1970’s. 1980’sWomen’s fashion in 1980’s The early 1980’s were very different from the rest of the decade, with some carryovers from the late 1970s. The early 1980’s saw a minimalist approach to fashion, with less emphasis on accessories, and practicality considered just as much as aesthetics. Clothing colours were subdued, quiet and basic. The fitness craze of the 1970’s continued into the early 1980’s. General women's street-wear worn in the early 1980’s included ripped jeans, leotards, tights, sweatpants, and tracksuits. Women’s fashion became more colourful in the mid-1980’s. From 1987 onward, the short skirt was the only length supported by fashion designers. Although skirts of any length were acceptable to wear in the years before, all attention was given to the short skirt, especially among teenage girls and young women.Men’s fashion in 1980’s Popular clothing in the early 1980’s worn by men includes tracksuits, v-neck sweaters, polyester and velour polo-neck shirts, sports jerseys, polyester button-ups, beanies and hoodies. Around this time it became acceptable for men to wear sports coats and slacks to places that previously required a suit. The mid 1980’s brought an explosion of colourful styles in men's clothing. This resulted in trends such as t-shirts underneath expensive suit jackets with broad, padded shoulders, hawaiian shirts with jackets that were often gray, tan, rust or white.1990’sWomen’s fashion in 1990’s Throughout the 90’s, supermodels dominated the fashion industry. One of the most influential group of models was the Big Five, whose fame and social power allegedly surpassed that of many movie stars - Naomi Campbell, Cindy Crawford, Christy Turlington, Linda Evangelista and Tatjana Patitz. Later in the decade, the rise of Kate Moss shifted the fashion world and the Big Five was then changed to the Big Six. The early 90’s saw a continuation of late 80’s fashion, including bold, geometric print clothing in electric colours. From ’90 onwards, sports bras, hoodies and Leotards worn as tops with jeans were popular with young women. A common outfit was to wear a skirt, dress shorts, minidress, black tights, athletic socks, and white Keds sneakers. In mid 1992, grunge fashion broke into the mainstream. Two years later, grunge clothing rapidly declined as fashion became more feminine and form-fitting. Young women wore tailored skirts and trouser suits, short skirts and dresses, animal prints, and high heels. High-shine fabrics - metallics, sequins, microfiber, vinyl, and silk became very prominent on both clubwear and work wear. Around 96/97, fashion started to take cues from the disco fashion of the mid–late 70’s. This included pleather pants,metallic clothing, and crop tops. Fashion trends popular from 1996-1999 included glamour wear, high-waisted miniskirts and trousers, plastic chokers, knee socks, tight pants, turtle-neck sweaters and cardigans. More formal styles intended for the workplace or special occasions included silk blouses in neutral colours or animal prints, tailored pantsuits and skirt suits inspired by the 80’s, collarless coats, and the little black dress, with or without subtle embroidery.Men’s fashion in 1990’s Continuing on from the late 80’s, many young men wore tapered high waisted jeans with matching denim jackets. From 1991 until 1997, flannel shirts became very popular due to their use among the skater subculture and grunge bands including Nirvana, Mudhoney, or Pearl Jam. Unlike the fitted Western shirts of the 1970’s which fastened with pearl snaps, the flannel shirts of the 90’s were padded and loose-fitting for optimum warmth. Around 1995/1996, 1960’s mod clothing and longer hair were popular due to the success of Britpop. Men wore Aloha shirts,brown leather jackets, velvet blazers, real fur went out of fashion and fake fur became the standard. The 70’s became a dominant theme for inspiration on men's apparel in 1996. Among these clothing styles were coats with faux fur, jackets with bold shoulders and wide lapels, and boot-cut slacks. Casual clothes such as trousers, sweaters, and denim jackets were worn with shirts made of satin or PVC. Both pastel colours and bold patterns were popular and successfully replaced black. By the late 90’s, the grunge look became unfashionable. The emergence of the rave subculture had sparked a revival of interest in more stylish clothes, with name brand designers such as Calvin Klein and Ralph Lauren making a comeback. In Europe, jeans were more popular than ever before. Colour started returning by 1997, with colours such as plum, charcoal, olive, and wine. 2000’s Women’s fashion in 2000’s 2000’s fashion is often described as being a global mash up, where trends saw the fusion of previous styles, global and ethnic clothing, as well as the fashions of numerous music-based subcultures (emo, indie, scene, hip hop, including the British chav). Hip-hop fashion generally was the most popular among young people of both sexes, followed by the retro inspired indie look later in the decade. From late 1997 until late 2001, there was a monochromatic futuristic approach to fashion, with metallics, heavy use of gray, straps, and buckles becoming commonplace. This was called "Y2K fashion". The early 2000’s saw the continuation of many mid and late 90’s fashions due to the continued influence of teen pop stars such as Britney Spears and Christina Aguilera. From 2001 onwards, women wore long-sleeved shirts with bell sleeves, crop tops, cargo pants, hip huggers and hip-hop inspired sweatpants. The early to mid 2000’s saw a significant rise in the consumption of fast fashion. With its low cost appeal driven by trends straight off the runway, fast fashion was a significant factor in the fashion industry’s growth. As affordable clothing became even more important in the entrance to the new age, brands had to find a way to keep up with their consumer’s new spending habits. Men’s fashion in 2000’s After the events of 9/11, fashion became more conservative, forgoing the futuristic styles (Y2K fashion) of before. Distressed denim made a comeback, with sandblasted highlights, frosted jeans, ripped jeans, and whiskering becoming commonplace. A lower rise jeans had emerged during this part of the decade, effectively getting rid of the high-waisted styles of the 90’s. Generally, many fashion trends from ’95 onwards continued to be worn in the early years of the decade. Newer fashion trends in the early 2000’s included wearing sportswear and military wear as everyday clothes. Men's accessories included Aviator sunglasses, flip-flops, oxford shoes, argyle socks, sneakers from brands such as Nike, Skechers, Adidas, and Puma and baseball caps. In the mid 2000’s, retro fashions inspired by British indie pop, garage rock revivalist groups, and the 60’s mod culture gained mainstream popularity. In 2004, men's fashion was inspired by movies from the 60’s and 80’s. Of particular inspiration were the movies Top Gun, Bullitt, and Midnight Cowboy.2010’s Women’s fashion in 2010’scenter587502000 The early 2010s saw many recycled fashions from the 50’s, 70’s and 80’s as designers from stores like Topshop replicated original vintage clothing. From late 2012 onward, 90’s inspired fashion began to make a?comeback. It was popular to wear neon colours such as pink, green, purple, magenta and yellow. By the mid 2010’s neon colours were out of style and were replaced by black, white, various shades of gray, and charcoal first on the catwalk, and later as street fashion. Other popular trends of the early and mid 2010’s included Aztec and Navajo inspired patterns featuring diamonds and triangles. In the spring of 2017, the brightly coloured beige, red, green, brown and orange 70’s revival fashions began to replace the grey and monochromatic 90’s inspired streetwear. Particularly popular were baggy floral maxi dresses, crocheted jumpers, cold shoulder tops, camel wool coats, hot pants, tunics and others. By 2017, it had also become fashionable for younger middle class women to wear more "grown up" or normcore styles, in reaction to the previous mismatched hipster fashions and the athleisure trend of 2014. Longer plaid skirts, vintage sheer black stockings with garterbelts, bias cut midi skirts, pale blue belted trenchcoats. Baggy black capri pants became popular in the UK in response to the increasingly sexualised and misogynistic dress codes in many workplaces and also due to the influence of Kate Middleton and celebrity early adopters like Victoria Beckham who sought a more professional looking image. Skinny jeans began to be replaced by straight leg jeans designed to follow the contours of the body, and other accessories that declined in popularity were chokers, ripped jeans, patches, and pin badges due to their childish connotations. For the first time since the early 1990s, it was fashionable for women to tuck in their shirts when dressing casually.center234315Picture no. 3 – 2017 women’s fashion00Picture no. 3 – 2017 women’s fashion Men’s fashion in 2010’s Neon colours and elaborate T-shirts were popular for much of the early 2010’s, especially graphic print hoodies, red or blue skinny jeans, studded belts with large buckles, and Ed Hardy T-shirts embellished with rhinestones. In the summer of 2012, early 1990’s inspired fashion made a comeback among men. This included bright coloured shorts, jeans shorts with a stone wash or acid wash and also shirts with Aztec patterns. The business casual look of the 90’s and early 2000’s remained, with jeans, loafers, boat shoes and sneakers being seen as acceptable to wear in the workplace. In 2014, men's fashion was heavily influenced by the improving economy and fashion-conscious cities such as London, New York City, Paris, and Milan, as well as imitating elements of luxury fashion and sportswear. Bright colours and retro styled graphic prints went out of style in favor of plain black, white, beige, taupe, gray, burgundy, and various shades of dark green. By spring 2017, fashion designers in the US began to move away from the slim fitting casual attire of the previous year, and frequently combined business casual pieces with sportswear. Brown replaced black as the most popular colour for leather jackets, common accessories included orange hoodies, black track pants, faded jeans covered in iron-on patches, Timberland boots, navy blue wool coach jackets, graphic print tees featuring a small statement design. Beginning in March 2017, clothing inspired by 90’s Britpop, mod revival and early 70’s fashion became popular among young men, especially in neutral tones. 2 Practical partAs a?practical part of my work, I?chose to make a?dress inspired by 1950’s fashion. Unfortunately, it is indeed more of a?practical work, thus I?was not able to add graphs and tables. However, I?tried to write the most detailed process of the sewing, and I?also added some photos. Since I?can not sew myself, my mother’s friend, who is a?tailor, helped me with this project.2.1 Workflow2.1.1 Choosing the right model First of all, I had to choose the model we would be sewing. After a consultation with the tailor, we have decided for a model that is easy and nice but still typical for said period. center-444500center102501Picture no. 4 – model design4000020000Picture no. 4 – model design 2.1.2 Purchase of the fabrics We also had to buy some fabrics. Me and my mom went to the haberdashery and we chose two kinds of fabric – one for a skirt and one for a top. We had to choose fabrics which were not too elastic and thin so the outfit would stand right, but also not too thick to be hard to sew. For the skirt we chose a black fabric with white flowers and for the top a?white one. We tried to buy about the right amount so we would not need to buy more. The saleswoman helped us with this by measuring me. 2.1.3 Sketch and measurements1973580112585500 Next, we had to draw a sketch. With our limited time, we were not able to handle the exact model we chose at the beginning, but it was still heavily influenced by it. I also had to take my measurements and write them into said sketch to know how much fabric we would exactly use and if there would be any need to buy more.Picture no. 5 – our sketch2.1.4 Measurement and cutting of the fabrics 27139901136015001003044113219600 The measurement and cutting of the purchased fabrics was next. At first we drew the shapes we wanted to cut on the other side of the fabric and at the same time, we used a meter to draw the measurements on it. Then we started to cut the fabric, but we left a small spare space of about 1-1.5 cm 84963020342Pictures no. 6 and 7 – measurements and cutting of the fabrics00Pictures no. 6 and 7 – measurements and cutting of the fabrics2.1.5 Temporary stitching, patchwork and the first fitting Next on the list were temporary stitching and patchwork. At this step I?had to stand still while the tailor put needles in the already stitched fabric. I tried the outfit on for the first time then. 3608705-1270003797301778000565369181128Picture no. 8 – temporary stitching4000020000Picture no. 8 – temporary stitching3092625229782Picture no. 9 – patchwork with needles020000Picture no. 9 – patchwork with needles2.1.6 Sewing and second fitting Since I?can not work with sewing machine, the tailor took the prototype outfit home and pernamently sewed it. She brought it to me for my second fitting, where she also measured how much fabric she had to reduce for the outfit to fit me perfectly. center1587500Picture no. 10 – second fitting2.1.7 The Final outfit After a?few adjustmens, we had the final, finished outfit. I?am planning on wearing it for the presentation of my work in my school. I?am very satisfied with it and I?am looking forward to wear it on other occasions, too. Conclusion In this work, I?adressed the topic of fashion development over the last one hundred years. Although this topic may seem boring for some people, I?really enjoyed working with it. While I?was researching information, I?have learned many new, interesting things. While working on the topic, I?mainly focused on the styles people used to wear, typical pieces of clothing and what influenced it. The main goal of this work was to gain new information about the fashion industry and its development during the last century. Since I?have learned new things about this topic myself, I?have decided to make an outft for my practical part. The aim was to make a?dress inspired by the 1950’s fashion period. Altogether, while working on this paper I?did not encounter any more serious problems. The only thing I?was unsure about were the book sources, many of them were in Czech language, and since I?had to make this paper in English language, the traslating could have been somewhat tiring. I?think the most positive thing about making of this paper was the newly gained information. Another exciting thing was my practical part, where we have made a?proper, wereable dress. Summary My work is about fashion development in the last century. It is devided into two parts – theoretical and practical. I?divided the theoretical part into even more parts, by decades and then by women’s and men’s fashion styles. For the second, practical part I?have made an outfit. It is inspired by the 1950’s fashion period. Since I?can not sew by myself, I?got help from my mother’s friend, who is a?tailor. Resumé Moja práca sa zaoberá v?vinom módy po?as minulého storo?ia. Je rozdelená na dve ?asti – teoretickú a?praktickú. Potom som teoretickú ?as? rozdelila e?te na viac ?astí, pod?a dekád a?potom pod?a mu?skej a??enskej módy. Pre druhú, praktickú ?as? som sa rozhodla u?i? ?aty in?pirované 50. rokmi 20. storo?ia. Pomohla mi s?t?m maminina kamarátka, ktorá je kraj?írka, ke??e ja sama ?i? neviem.Bibliography:Books:LAVER, J.: Costume and Fashion: A?Concise History. London: Thames and Hudson Ltd, 1995. ISBN 0-500 202664M?CHALOV?, J.: Dějiny odívaní: Móda 20. století. Praha: Preface, 2003. ISBN 80-7106-587-0NAGY, L.G.: Odevy a?ú?esy: Preh?ad dejín odievania a?úprav vlasov od staroveku po dne?ok. Dunajská Streda: Lilium Aurum, 2004. ISBN 80-8062-225-6Internet: ................
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