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WHAT DO I NEED TO START MAKING STAINED GLASS ?
A question often asked is which tools and materials are required for someone to start making stained glass objects. In response we list below a set of tools which can be used for either leadwork or copper foil, and also the individual tools and materials required for each method.
Tools for both lead and copper foil.
Glass cutter
Grozing pliers
Soldering iron
Cutting oil
All nova tool
Safety glasses
Working with lead
Lead came
Tallow (flux)
Solder
Lead light cement
Whiting
Horseshoe nails
Scrubbing brush
Lead knife
Lead vice
Working with copper foil
Foil
Solder
Safety flux
Patina
Small brush (for flux)
TECHNIQUES
There are two techniques available, these are the use of either lead came or copper foil to hold the glass together.
The lead technique has been used in Europe since Medieval times, and is the method by which the windows in your local church have been made. The lead is either extruded or milled into 'H' sections of different widths called cames, and these are cut and placed around each piece of glass, then soldered at every joint. This provides the basic structure of the window which, after cementing, willl be strong and durable.
Copper foil was first used in the USA by Tiffany when making some of his marvellous windows, but is especially noted in his lamps. In this case, foil is wrapped around the edge of each piece of glass and then a long run of solder (a bead) is melted along all the seams on both sides of the glass. This method allows for great flexibility in design, with the solder providing the foil with its strength.
LEAD
This is the preferred method when making windows, due to the strength offered by the size of the lead, especially after cementing. They also tend to be more weather proof, important if your panels are open to the elements.
Materials
Lead came- H section in 2m lengths.
Soldering
Spot joints at every place where the lead meet.
Glass cutting
Accurate, but may be grozed as edges are hidden by the lead.
Cementing
Necessary for weather proofing and strengthening.
Finishing
Polishing to stain the lead black.
Uses and applications
Windows and panels, especially large projects.
Decorative mirrors.
COPPER FOIL
Most suitable for three dimensional objects such as lamps, boxes and terrariums.
It is also the best technique for windows that have many small pieces and will not
be exposed to the weather. Accuracy of glass cutting is important with foil.
Materials
Foil - 4 widths in rolls of 36yds.
Soldering
Continuous bead along all seams.
Glass cutting
Accuracy essential, or solder will fall through all the gaps in the joints.
Glass grinder essential for delicate work.
Cementing
Not necessary.
Finishing
Patinas to stain the solder black or copper.
Uses and applications
Windows and panels, 3 dimensional objects, fine intricate work and decorative mirrors.
CREATING A DESIGN
The first stage for either method is to make a full size drawing of the window or object you want to produce.
If a lot of detail is to be included by painting on the glass, this drawing will be the cartoon and is the important original from which the final window will be copied.
A cutline is taken from the cartoon, this giving the shapes of glass that have to be cut.
In many cases, where painting is not required, the first drawing may be the cutline.
The accuracy of the cut line is crucial in that by keeping it to the glass the glass will be cut to the correct size. The thickness of the line represents the space between the glass.
For lead, the width of this line should be no more than 2mm depending on the width of the heart of the lead and for foil it will be 1mm. After the glass has been cut the cut line is used again when leading the panel together by keeping strictly to the drawing, the final panel or object will be made to the correct size.
GLASS CUTTING
Cutting glass successfully is a matter of using the correct technique and having confidence, it is certainly not something to be afraid of. There are many different cutters available today the ones we sell and recommend are the oil cutters. The oil cutters have a reservoir of oil inside the handle that lubricates the wheel automatically. Lubrication is the secret to easy glass cutting.
When scoring the glass the cutting wheel should always be held perpendicular to the surface. Apply a downward pressure so that a slight scratching noise may be heard. Too much pressure will result in very small glass chippings being visable along the score line, too little pressure will produce no score at all. NEVER go back along a scored line for a second time.
To break the glass, hold it firmly in your fists between the thumb and index finger of each hand, and twist your wrists to obtain an even out ward pressure. Alternatively, cut running pliers may be used, these are designed to produce the same even pressure by gently squeezing the pliers.
We suggest you practice on scraps of 3mm clear glass before making your project. When cutting glass you can see through, place the glass over the cutline on your workbench. If you are using opalescent glass, which is very often too dense to see through, it will be necessary to cut the cut line into templates and draw the shape around these on the glass. If the entire panel is in opalescent glass, a duplicate cut line will be needed, one to cut up and one to be used on the workbench.
LEADING A PANEL
When using lead came it is important that the lead is stretched before use.
The leaf of the lead may need to be opened to accept the glass, using an All Nova Tool.
The cutline is placed on the work board and two wooden lath strips are nailed over it at 90 degree to form the bottom and one side of the panel. The outside leads are then placed inside these laths and the pieces of glass and surrounding leads are built up from this corner.
Each piece of lead is cut to the correct length using a lead knife, the length being slightly short to allow for the overlap of the adjoining lead. Depending on the angle of the adjacent lead an angled cut may be necessary.
The project in progress should be kept tight by gently tapping the pieces together and holding them in place by tapping a horseshoe nail into place. Small sections of lead should be used here to prevent the glass damage to the glass.
It is important that all the lead joints are cut accurately and meet correctly, with no gaps between the lead and glass.
When the panel has been completed, the next stage is soldering. Every joint is soldered on both sides of the panel. The leads must be clean, and then a flux (tallow) is used to help the solder run and adhere to the lead. The joints are now soldered, care being taken not to allow the iron to become to hot and melt the lead as well. The solder should then flow into a gently rounded bend. If your solder joint has peaks, the iron needs to be hotter or left in place longer, again being careful not to melt the lead.
The next stage is to cement the panel to make it waterproof and give it strength. Using a scrubbing brush, the lead light cement is forced into the gap between the glass and the leaf of the lead on both sides. The leaf of the lead may have to be opened up slightly to help this. When the cementing has been completed, whiting is spread over the panel to absorb the excess oil and help clean up the panel. Scrub the panel both sides to remove the excess cement. This process is very messy.
After the panel has dried, this usually takes a few days, apply grate polish to the leads and buff up to black the lead.
Then stand back and admire.
COPPER FOIL
The copper foil is made in different widths, 3/16" 7/32" 1/4" and 3/8"- in rolls of 36 yards, and is adhesive on one side. The narrower the foil, the smaller the final line of solder between the glass, but the technique will become more difficult as greater accuracy of cutting is called for.
Before foiling, all the pieces of glass should have been cut and checked on the cutline to see that they fit together accurately.
Make sure that each piece of glass is clean and dry and then wrap the outside of each piece of glass with the foil. Position the glass on the centre of the foil, as you do this press the foil down tight and smooth the edges with your All Nova Tool.
When each piece of glass has been foiled, lay them all down on the work board. If the panel is rectangular, use wooden laths as for leading.
The first soldering to be done is to tack together with blobs of solder, this is done before attempting to run a bead along the whole length.
Soldering is the most important step when using foil, as it affects the strength and final appearance of your project. All exposed copper foil must be soldered, as the seam relies upon the solder for its strength and not the adhesive backing of the foil. Flux all the foil and using a soldering iron and solder, run a bead along the seam between the pieces of glass.
The object is to produce a raised bead, it is a good idea to practice on scraps of glass foiled together first, as good soldering will enhance the appearance of the final object.
The final stage is to ensure that you thoroughly clean the finnished piece, removing all the flux residue from the glass. Take extra care when using mirror, as any flux left on will eat into the silvered backing. The solder may then be stained to either black or copper finish, using a liquid patina.
Then wash, polish and admire.
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