Leisure & Arts (pdf)

THE WALL STREET JOURNAL.

LEISURE & ARTS

HOW'S YOUR DRINK? by Eric Felten

What the Queen video link Likes to Quaff

SATURDAY, JULY 15, 2006

from THE WALL STREET JOURNAL

D URING THE 1990s, Buckingham Palace was plagued by unwanted visitors. Twice in one week in 1992, the same man was caught inside the palace gates. In 1994, paraglider James Miller painted his naked self green and landed on the roof. In 1997, an escapee from an asylum found his way onto the grounds. These and other intrusions led Daily Mirror reporter Ryan Parry to test the supposedly improved state of the queen's security three years ago. He presented himself for employment at the palace with phony references and was promptly hired as a footman. Soon he was delivering the queen her mail, newspapers and drinks. Her Majesty's cocktail of choice? Gin and Dubonnet.

The Dubonnet Cocktail was also the favorite of the queen's late mother. But does anyone outside the palace drink Dubonnet anymore? Someone must--it is the bestselling aperitif (admittedly not the most robust spirits category) in the U.S. Dubonnet is, like port, a fortified wine. It is flavored with various herbs and botanicals, the most prominent being the bitter bark of the cinchona tree--the source of quinine--which is why Dubonnet and other cinchonaflavored aperitifs are called quinquinas.

I like Dubonnet on its own, poured over well-cracked ice, but it is also a versatile cocktail ingredient, and was used liberally in the golden age of mixology. Take a Dubonnet Cocktail and add a few dashes of orange bitters and you get what was known as a ZaZa.

Another terrific drink, the Dandy Cocktail, is a sort of Dubonnet Manhattan with Cointreau.

By the 1930s Dubonnet was a favorite of the Social Register set, served straight or mixed. Stephen Birmingham, in his 1968 book "The Right People: A Portrait of the American Social Establishment," recalled his embarrassment when--at his first society dance, decades before--he spilled a glass of sauterne all over himself. Mortified, the next day he lamented his faux pas to a friendly dowager. She too was mortified, but for a different reason: "Do you mean they served sauterne and not Dubonnet?" she replied. "How dreadful!"

This link will take you to a new and interesting area for investment. Take a moment to enjoy. Dubonnet is no longer an upper-crusty necessity. Nor is it as relentlessly advertised as it once was in the Francophone world. In "Brideshead Revisited," Evelyn Waugh took note of the Dubonnet and Michelin billboards in Morocco and declared them the "staples of

Dubonnet Cocktail

1? oz gin 1? oz Dubonnet (red) n Shake with ice, and strain into a cocktail glass. Garnish with lemon peel. Or, build it on the rocks, which is how the Queen Mother liked hers.

Dandy Cocktail

1? oz rye whiskey or bourbon 1? oz Dubonnet (red) ? oz Cointreau 1 dash Angostura bitters Lemon and orange peel n Shake with ice (extra vigorous shaking will bring out theflavorful oils in the citrus peel) andstrain into a cocktail glass.

(over please)

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MERRILL LYNCH FOR ALL FACETS OF YOUR LIFE

France." Dubonnet isn't the staple it once was--and, as it turns out, it isn't even necessarily from France. Though bottles of Dubonnet sold in the U.S. proudly read "Grand Aperitif de France," the wine is actually produced in Bardstown, Ky. Were George W. Bush a drinking man, he might rename it "Freedom Aperitif."

Brands often fall into different hands in different countries. Take the crocodile-clad tennis shirts. For decades, they were made by the French firm Lacoste for sale everywhere but the States, where the trademark was held by Izod. After the Izod brand bounced around a succession of conglomerates, each of which made the shirts cheaper than the last, Lacoste finally managed to buy back the U.S. rights. So how did a French product as iconic as Dubonnet find its way to the land of bourbon?

Paul Dubonnet was one of four siblings who together inherited the drinks fortune built by their grandfather. An international playboy with a striking resemblance to Fred Astaire, Paul had a falling out with his family in 1926 when he married Jean Nash, known

as "the best- dressed woman in the world." Nash had earned that title by handing the fortunes of some four previous husbands over to the couturiers of Paris. Paul not only married her, but failed to get a prenup limiting her claim on his part of the family business.

One furious brother, race-car driver Andre, ran the happy couple off the road in the Bois de Boulogne; Paul climbed out of the ditchmired limo and gave his brother a thrashing: "Andre weighs 20 pounds more than Paul, but Paul blacked his eyes, cut his lip and nose easy," the new Madame Dubonnet proudly told the Chicago Tribune. Paul then hired a washed-up prizefighter, "Blink" McCluskey, as a bodyguard and bought Jean "a handsome jewel-inlaid automatic pistol as a Christmas present."

The marriage lasted, and come World War II, Paul Dubonnet was with his American wife in New York. Imports from Nazi-controlled France were out of the question, and so, in March 1942, Dubonnet began bottling the family aperitif in Philadelphia using California wines. Paul insisted that the U.S.-

made wine was every bit the equal of the original: "The only reason our product was not made here many years ago," he told the New York Times, "was a sentimental one."

The arrangement lasted past the war, and by the 1950s the aperitif's U.S. distributor, Schenley, had acquired all the stock of Dubonnet's U.S. company. Several corporate reshufflings and takeovers later, Bardstown's Heaven-Hill Distilleries--makers of Evan Williams bourbon--acquired the brand in 1993.

How does the original Dubonnet compare with its New World cousin? The two are not the same. Recently, when I was out of the country, I bought a bottle of non-U.S. Dubonnet, which is now made by the French spirits giant Pernod-Ricard. I preferred its taste, which is deeper and more portlike than the Dubonnet we know in the states. But its appearance was not at all up to snuff: The wine was muddy and so heavily oxidized that the color was more brown than red. And so I don't mind sticking with Kentucky Dubonnet. Just don't ask me to drink any "bourbon" from Marseille.

v Money matters

The quest for arsmt fosraanrmdsaarnmd aormr or

FRIDAY, JULY 14, 2006

the Wall Street Journal Europe

COLLECTING ANTIQUE arms and armor may sound like the domain of history buffs and museums, but the appeal is wider. It stretches to those interested in the fine workmanship of earlier times and to those looking for a decorative piece full

Collecting

MARGARET STUDER

of romance to liven their homes--items bring to mind images of medieval knights jousting to earn the love of a beautiful maiden, or gentlemen of later centuries duelling with pistols in defense of their honor.

"An antique helmet or sword can look great beside a contemporary painting. They are sculptures in steel," says Peter Finer, a leading antique arms and armor dealer in London. David Williams, who heads the antique arms and armor department at auction house Bonhams in London, says this collecting field is not just about weapons, but the applied arts. "Pieces are often richly decorated," he says.

Above, a gold-inlaid pistol (circa 1800) given to Napoleon Bonaparte in 1802, which sold for ?38,400 in April; below, a Sinhalese Kastana, 19th century, estimated at ?1,500-?1,800

dieval pieces have a market--and lieved to be the only weapon given

there were a lot of Victorian copies-- by an Englishman to Napoleon,

this is a market for interior decora- fetched ?38,400 at Bonhams spe-

tors, not for bona fide collectors. cialist antique arms and armor sale

Suits of armor. Suits are a favor- in April, against an estimate of

ite at the moment, says Mr. Finer. ?25,000-?30,000.

An example coming up at Bonhams Guns. Bonhams sale on July 27

specialized sale of arms and armor will also include early 20th century

video link on July 27 is a German 17th-century hunting guns. In this category, a top

blackened steel, three-quarter suit lot is a decorative 12-bore pigeon

that looks menacing but would add gun made by famous gun manufac-

drama to a large entrance hall (esti- turer J. Purdey in 1931, estimated at

mate: ?25,000-?28,000).

?6,000-?9,000.

Helmets. Helmets have a strong sculptural quality that appeals to-

Going, going, gone

day, says Mr. McCullough. And they

Topping a series of Old Master

don't have to be perfect to sell. Hel- painting and drawing sales in Lon-

This video link will take you to a new and interesting area

Photos: Christie's; Bonhams

An English pikeman's armor, circa 1640, estimated at ?3,000-?4,000

for investment. Take a moment to enjoy.

There are regular specialized sales at Euro-

As a result, Mr. Williams notes, there is an interesting mix of buyers at auctions, as well as a steady group of global collectors whose passion is centered on antique arms and armor. "This is not a speculative market.

pean auction houses; arms and armor are also included in nonspecialized auctions, such as house sales.

Christie's will hold a two-day house sale on Monday and Tuesday at Gyrn Castle in North

People collect because they love the subject," Wales, a sale that brings together over 800

Mr. Williams says.

pieces of furniture, paintings and silver

MERRILL LYNCH FOR ALL FACETS OF YOUR LIFE

objects with arms and armor from four

historic houses in Wales and England's

Cheshire. A top lot of the sale will be an

English pikeman's armor from about 1640

estimated at between GBP 3,000-GBP 4,000.

(Pikemen were soldiers who carried long

spears called pikes with which they warded

off attacks by cavalry). Also in the sale will

be individual pieces of armor and malicious-

looking antique daggers and swords.

At Christie's auction of fine antique arms

and armor in London on May 24, 81% of

pieces were sold according to number of lots

and 89% according to estimated value, a high

success rate for any sale. Nicholas McCul-

lough, Christie's senior arms and armor

department specialist, said that there was

particularly strong bidding from private

collectors.

Pieces should be rare, have a reliable provenance and be in good condition.amuocrtion "One accepts a little battle damage,osn, -

but the pieces must be pure," says

Mr. McCullough. That means that it

is essential that pieces are authentic,

and true to the years in which they -

were made.

d

ms

Although Victorian copies ohifs-

medieval pieces have a market--anadtnodp

there were a lot of Victorian copiesn--mEonr-

this is a market for interior decoratorwesset,ein-

not for bona fide collectors.

emen rried

Suits of Armor: Suits are a favorepiditkeoefsf

at

the

moment,

says

Mr.

Finer.

An Also in vidual

example coming up at Bonhams speciamla-li-

e dag-

ized sale of arms and armor on July 27 is

a German 17th-century blackened steiaoernml,oorf

three-quarter suit that looks menacio8nr1d%ginogf

but would add drama to a large entra8vn9al%cueea,ca-

hall (estimate: GBP 25,000-GBP 28,000u)nl.ylosuagleh.,

Helmets: Helmets have a strong scpeuacnlidaplai-srt-,

tural quality that appeals today, says pMartric.u-

from pri-

McCullough. And they don't have to be

perfect to sell. Helmets from the anarcnedi, ehabnveetian

world, for example, can be a glimpsetccitenhpettsopaielcaite-s

heroic and mythological world thate. sMswecCntueilalol nuthgoaht.

longer know. Two battered helmets fenaedrteturmureaedtoe.athte

Rupert Wace Ancient Art's continuing

London show of ancient art and minimalist

contemporary art (until July 28). Dating from

the first century B.C. to first century A.D.,

the Etruscan-Roman helmets were probably

crushed in battle, and one shudders to think

what happened to the fighters wearing them.

"I usually only have helmets and weaponry in

very good condition," says Rupert Wace. But

he adds that when he saw these, he couldn't

resist them: "They have a memento mori

quality. You can still see the sword slashes on

the side" (price: GBP 12,000 for the pair).

Swords and daggers: Swords can range

from heavy medieval weapons to elegant

rapiers and hunting swords. In Bonhams

coming sale is a late 13th-14th century double-

edged blade, which one would rather not

encounter in the dark, estimated at GBP

3,500-GBP 4,500; an elegant German rapier

from mets from th

ample, can b

t

h

e

late

16th-early

17th

centuries

rowicceaannordlromnygying the same estimate; and an elabo-

hArenlacmietenetst Af1er9th century Sinhalese sword decorated

sihwstowicotonhfteamna dragon's head (estimate: GBP 1,50028G). BDaPtin 1,800).

tury B.C.

the EPtruistols: These sales always include an wtleee,rxeanptdreonsive range of pistols, often highly

wwdheaeartcinhogaprated. In the July Bonhams sale is an

hveearvxyetghroeeolmmely rare pair of cased Russian 54-bore

wppehoretncWhkeaect pistols from around 1840 estimated at

GBP resist the

mento mo

6,000-GBP

8,000.

A

gold-inlaid

120-bore

sepeisthteosl presented in 1802 to Napoleon Bona-

side" (price

pSaworrtdes aby English Lieutenant-Colonel Thomas

cwTaenahpraoonnrgsent ton, believed to be the only weapon

hinuggnitsvianlegesniws by an Englishman to Napoleon, fetched

touGnreyBwdoPouulbd38,400 at Bonhams specialist antique

i?na3,r50tmh0e-?s4 and armor sale in April, against an

meeaarsnlytri1a7mpthieate of GBP 25,000-GBP 30,000. sameGesutimns: Bonhams sale on July 27 will also

19th cent

diencocraltuedde early 20th century hunting guns. In

(Petisshttiomilssa.teTcategory, a top lot is a decorative 12-

ctolbulsdo,eroafetneenpigeon gun made by famous gun manu-

thtefreaJmucleytl urer J. Purdey in 1931, estimated at

RutoGslssiBP 6,000-GBP 9,000.

mAGoing, going, gone

Topping a series of Old Master

painting and drawing sales in London

last week was "Salmacis and Hermaphroditis," a luscious painting at Christie's depicting the water nymph Salmacis falling in love with Hermaphroditus, son of Hermes and Aphrodite, by Italian artist Ludovico Carracci (1555-1619). The painting was estimated at GBP 800,000-GBP 1.2 million, but after fierce bidding it fetched a whopping GBP 7.4 million, a record for the artist.

The Carracci painting illustrates what makes a painting hot in the Old Master sector today. The image was striking; condition exceptional; provenance hard to beat (it came from Knole in Kent, one of England's great historic houses); and it was fresh to the market having been at Knole since the 17th century.

The top lot at Sotheby's brought another record for an artist when Pieter Brueghel the Younger's painting "Christ on the Road to Calvary" (1607) sold for GBP 5.16 million, above its estimate of GBP 2.5-GBP 3.5 million.

Specialists said last week's sales showed the continued strength of the Old Master market. Nevertheless, far from everything sold. One of Sotheby's most-prominent lots failed to find a buyer: a portrait of the young English aristocrat Sir Thomas Wyatt, which was only recently attributed to Hans Holbein the Younger (1497/8-1543). It was estimated at GBP 2 million to GBP 3 million.

Gyrn Castle Sale Christie's, Gyrn Castle, Llanasa, Flintshire, North Wales, U.K. (off A55) July 17 and 18, 10:30 a.m 44-20-7839-9060

Antique Arms and Armour and Modern Sporting Guns Bonhams, Montpellier St., Knightsbridge, London July 27, 10:30 a.m. and 1 p.m 44-20-7447-7447

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