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From: "Kate Johnson"

Date: Fri Feb 8, 2002 1:41 pm

Subject: a quick look for clouded in the PA Gazette...

There were too many to look through, 190-some hits, but this was gleaned

from the first 30--

Several pairs of clouded stockings both cotton and wool...I found at least 7

or 8 out of thirty ads looked at:

ITEM #83256

May 28, 1800

The Pennsylvania Gazette

Six Cents Reward.

RAN away from the subscriber, living in Newtown township, Delaware county,

Pennsylvania, on the 18th of this instant, an apprentice lad, named John

Green, near 6 feet high, brown hair, 20 years of age; had on and took with

him, a roram hat, almost new, one red and white gingham coattee, one drab

coloured cloth ditto, one figured cassimere jacket, one muslinet ditto, one

cloth ditto, one pair ribbed velvet overalls, one pair gingham ditto, two

pair Russia sheeting trowsers, two Russia sheeting shirts, one fine ditto,

one pair > cotton stockings. Whoever apprehends the above

runaway, and brings him home to this master, shall receive the above reward,

but no charges.

THOMAS THOMAS.

5th month 19th, 1800.

ITEM #72704

April 12, 1786

The Pennsylvania Gazette

STOP THE ROGUE.

MARCH 28th, 1786.

LEFT the township of West Caln, Chester county, a certain JOHN PRICE, of

Welch and Dutch extraction; prior to his departure he agreed with me the

subscriber, to serve twelve months for a certain sum of money, of which I

paid him good part in hand, and have not received any satisfaction for the

same; said Price is about forty years of age, six feet high, dark

complexion, curled black hair, thin visage, strait bodied, walks like an

Indian; had on when he went away, a deep blue coat, bound with yellow silk

lace, a rose upon each hip of the same; neither button or button-holes, grey

waistcoat and trowsers, made of coating, one pair of corduroy breeches, with

silk knee bands, two pair of stockings, one pair ribbed, the other > , two pair of shoes, one pair new the other old, two hats, one

beaver, the other old (Quality not known) any person or persons apprehending

and bringing said rogue to the subscriber, living in the township and county

abovesaid, shall have Four Dollars Reward, and all reasonable charges paid

by me, and this shall be their sufficient warrant for and in so doing JOHN

McCULAGH.

----------------------------------------------------------------------------

----

Several clouded nankeen--here are a few examples:

ITEM #82749

April 10, 1799

The Pennsylvania Gazette

Four Dollars Reward.

RAN away from the subscriber, living in Upper Dublin township, Montgomery

county, on the evening of the 7th inst. an indented servant boy, named JOHN

CANE, aged 17 years, supposed to be about 5 feet 6 or 7 inches high, he is

very much marked with the small-pox, has short light hair, grey eyes, one

remarkable crooked leg, which occasions him to have a very clumsy gait; had

on and took with him when he went away, a brown cloth coat, a pair of plain

nankeen trowsers, a > nankeen coat, wool hat, a pair of buckskin

breeches, and a new pair of shoes. Whoever takes up and secures said

runaway, so that the subscriber may get him again, shall be entitled to the

above reward, and reasonable charges if brought home.

JOHN JARRET.

4th mo. 8th, 1799.

ITEM #81550

December 14, 1796

The Pennsylvania Gazette

Seven Cents Reward.

RAN AWAY from the subscriber, on the 20th of November, an apprentice boy, by

trade a Miller, named JOHN TANNER, between 19 and 20 years of age, about 5

feet 7 or 8 inches high, light hair; had on, when he went away, a new coat,

jacket and trowsers, all of > nankeen, and took with him a light

coloured broad-cloath coat, a striped jean jacket, and a mixed red and blue

broad-cloth jacket, two pair of trowsers, one striped purple and yellow, the

other fulled lindsey, three shirts, one fine, a fur hat bound with velvet,

two pair of yarn stockings, and a pair of new shoes, and other cloaths.

Whoever takes up said apprentice, and will bring him home, so that his

master may get him again, shall have the above reward, but no charges paid,

by

BENJAMIN CHAPMAN.

Wrightstown, Nov. 28, 1796.

ITEM #81372

September 7, 1796

The Pennsylvania Gazette

Twenty Dollars Reward.

RAN away from the subscriber, the 27th of this inst. an indented servant

man, named JACOB PHASKEL, about 18 years of age, 5 feet 7 inches high,

tolerably well set, long black hair, tied with a black thick set ribbon,

dark eyes and eye brows, his forehead bold, his visage long, and his face

full of small red pimples. He took with him a square crown castor hat, about

half worn, two tow and flax shirts, and four pair of trowsers, one pair of

new nankeen trowsers, that tied at the ancles, with a rip in the upper part

of the thigh, and vest of the same, buff colour, one pair of striped lye

coloured flag trowsers, a scarlet vest with fustian back, two waistcoats,

and a > nankeen and a fustian coat, a pair of old shoes newly

patched and soaled, and had remarkable long great toes. Whoever secures said

servant in any gaol, or brings him home to his said master, shall have the

above reward, and all reasonable charges, paid by

MOSES QUINBY.

Amwell township, Hunterdon county,

New-Jersey, 9 mo. 6th, 1796.

ITEM #81079

April 13, 1796

The Pennsylvania Gazette

Joseph & Jesse Sharpless,

No. 32, South Third street,

Have received per the Hamburgh packet, and

have for sale,

A Variety of MERCHANDIZE, consisting of callicoes, furniture ditto,

dimities, fustians, wide and narrow > and striped nankeens,

checks, ginghams, elegant vest patterns of Camel's hair, muslinet and

Marseilles, hosiery, cassimers, jeans, superfine and second cloths,

callimancoes, spinnings, moreens, Irish linens, and dry goods in general;

also a general assortment of saddlery and saddler's tools. They expect a

large additional supply of dry goods by the first vessels, which they will

sell on reasonable terms for cash, or the usual credit.

3d month, 29th, 1796.

N.B. Also a number of elegant counterpanes and Merseilles bed quilts.

---

clouded green coat:

ITEM #80819

December 9, 1795

The Pennsylvania Gazette

Six Cents Reward.

RAN away, on the 24th of September last, from the subscriber, near

Swedesborough, Woolwich township, Gloucester county, an apprentice lad,

named William Elliott, about five feet ten inches high, stout built, long

black hair, and very talkative, had on, and took with him, a >

green coat, light coloured surtout, with metal buttons, and high crown hat.

Any person securing said run away, so that his master may get him again,

shall have the above reward, but no charges, paid by

SAMUEL OGDEN.

---

Whoa! A clouded KNIT jacket...

ITEM #71936

August 24, 1785

The Pennsylvania Gazette

TWELVE DOLLARS Reward.

RAN away, last night, from the subscriber, a servant man, named JOHN

HAGENBOOK, a German, a taylor by trade; he is 21 years of age, 5 feet 5

inches high, fresh coloured, much pitted with the small pox, and has black

hair which he wears cued; had on an orange coloured coat of fine cloth, a > knit jacket, nankeen breeches, new fine shirt, white cotton

stockings, good calf-skin shoes, plated shoe and knee-buckles, and a castor

hat. Whoever takes up and secures said servant in any goal, or delivers him

to the subscriber, shall have the above reward, and reasonable charges, paid

by ANDREW HERTZOG.

N.B. A certain Henry Voelker went off with the above servant; he is a free

man, a taylor by trade, and persuaded the servant to go with him. August 22,

1785.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Kate Emerson

Date: Mon Jan 14, 2002 8:31 am

Subject: Pa German clogs and stockings

Dear liste,

As always I am slightly behind all the postings so please forgive me if I am redundant. There is a description of Pennsylvania German women around Womelsdorf "The females in their short gowns, long, heavily ribbed stockings, or (if in summer) bare limbs, (and) heavy wooden shoes." Whether those heavy wooden shoes are clogs or not..... A pair was found in Ephrata Cloisters some years back when they were doing restoration. As I recall they had wooden soles and cloth tops. Many times iron "shoes" were added to the bottom is minimize wear. Usually these were located on the toes and the back of the heels. They look a lot like little horse shoes. Many English farmers wore clogs according to a paper written a number of years back in Costume. They weren't "just" continental European footwear.

mit freundlichen Gruessen,

KateE

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Diana Wigham

Date: Wed Mar 28, 2001 6:58 pm

Subject: Re: [18cWoman] " three black Dutch laced caps?"

List,

German (as we call it today) caps, and presumably Dutch since they are close geograpically, were black caps. That is a traditional dress with them. if anyone wants specifics, I can dig into the file system (or is lack of file system? ) and find sources.

Diana Wigham

former Hessian campfollower

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: kellythakur@

Date: Sat Feb 17, 2001 12:13 pm

Subject: dutch clothing

Dear List,

I have had an interest in dutch

clothing in the colonies (early

to mid 18th century) for sometime,

but am finding it next to

impossible to find books on the

subject. I found books on dutch

folk

costumes from the 19th and early

20th cent.,but nothing about folk

clothing or high fashion in the

18th. I searched our archives and

found I am a little late on this

subject, but I have many questions

that remain unanswered. I do not

read Dutch or German, but if I did,

it sounds as if the book that was

earlier recommended "Sits Oost

Weist Reldiesim Textiel" would be a good read. I did find wonderful

advise on Dutch textiles in our archives! If any one has since found

more information on Dutch clothing or a new resource...PLEASE share

it with me!

I would like to know more about the cut of the clothes and caps.

I realize this might depend on the area one is from in the

Netherlands. I have the names of the towns in the Netherlands inwhich

my family lived if this would help, Amsterdam (book sellers),

Zaandam, Beverwijk, Leiden, Dortrecht, Leeiwarden, and Alphen aan den

Rijn. I may have to choose an area to focus on if I find information

on a particular place. Unfortunately, I am not sure of their social

status. I do know that one of the ancestors in my geneolgy died in

the East Indies. I do not know what his particlar job was (low or

high position). How long would it be before one adopted more english

modes of dress in the colonies? My ancestors lived in Kent Co., DE

and Germantown, PA and a few were in NY.

I would really like to portray one of my own ancestors

someday...possibly during the War for Independence or earlier. If

anyone is familiar with this subject or is now portraying a dutch

woman, please share your knowledge! Thank you for any information you

can offer!

Yours in Scholarship,

Kelly

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: booboopies@

Date: Sun Feb 18, 2001 6:02 am

Subject: Re: dutch clothing

Hi, Kelly,

Are you referring to Dutch as in

Holland or Dutch as in German? The

reason I ask is because you

indicate your ancestors were

located in

Germantown and in Delaware, as well

as New York. The Germantown

settlers were Krefelders from

Germany. The European origin of the

New

York settlers was Dutch from

Holland with some Palatinate

Germans and

French Hugenots.

Somewhere in my house I have a

great little book which I think is

called _Clothing the Colonists_ which I received from a New York

historical society/house museum. I'll dig around and see if I can

find it or the review I did for the ALHFAM Historic Clothing

Newsletter a few years ago. Its focus is 17th century New Amsterdam

and relies mostly on paintings by Jan Steen and other 17th century

artists. Dutch common dress had a definite visual identity that

differed from that of the Germans, English, and French that, to my

mind, expressed their national confidence and self-satisfaction, as

well as a joy for life that doesn't seem to come through in the

artwork of other European countries. Dutch artists are noted for their

precision and accuracy, so what you see is what it was.

By the late 1660s, New Amsterdam and Delaware (which had been captured

from the Swedes in 1654) were under English control, so by the early

18th century Dutch clothing would reflect more of an English

influence. Germans, probably because they settled in the hinterlands

and had less direct contact politically or socially with the English,

retained much of regional appearance.

Interestingly, as there are so few paintings in the middle 1600s of

English common dress, we must turn to Great Britain's trade ally (and

sometime enemy) in Holland to see what was being worn in England

during the Commonwealth. The clothing is very similar, but the few

English paintings of ordinary people that exist show clearly a much

less fun-loving lot.

Hope that this helps a little bit.

Karen Greim Mullian

booboopies@

zeke196@

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Kate Emerson

Date: Fri Dec 8, 2000 11:40 am

Subject: RE: [18cWoman] Petticoats with borders

At 11:03 08.12.2000 -0500, you

wrote:

>Miller's images are early to mid

19th century aren't they? He was

born in

>1796.

>

Yes, but you see it in earlier

artists as well. His are the best

known and

the most easily available to us

(you the reader) because of Ellen's

book

and the publication of some of his

pictures by the York County

Historical

Society. ... Okay I'll do it. Here

is a quote from my (untidy)Tidy

paper.

"Sources occasionally display a band around the petticoat hem. One such

illustration is found on a German sampler in the collections of Colonial

Williamsburg. This sampler, dated 1734, depicts a female figure wearing a

brown and blue vertically striped petticoat with a brown band on the

bottom. Another embroidered sampler dated 1733 shows a woman in a st4riped

petticoat with a band. She wears a light gold jacket or bedgown over a

green and white striped petticoat with a light blue band above a darker

one. The white of the petticoat is the Unembroidered backing linen. This

sampler is attributed to Anna Wagner, a Schwenkfelder widow, and is

initialed "ACCW". It was brought to Montgomery County PA in 1737 from

Saxony.

Karl Becker shows 18th Centrury illustrations of Palatine farm women in

short petticoats with bands at the hem and comments "The heavily pleated

petticoat... is covered with stripes of ribbons" (Becker __Die

Volkstrachten der Pfaltz_ pp. 49, 25, 28, 45, & 47) Lewis Miller drew

bands or ribbon trim, not tucks, on the bottom edge of some petticoats.

This illustrations support Mittelberger's statement "They wear handsomely

sewed petticoats trimmed with ribbon.

Protective cording or heavy braid are found on many 19th Century dresses

to protect them from abrasion. It is possible that these 18th Century

bands did double duty, being both decorative and utilitarian. The bands

are infrequently seen on 18th Century English petticoats; it seems to be a

Germanic fashion. Perhaps Margaret Keller was referring to a short banded

petticoat on August 4, 1737 when she willed her goddaughter "a petticoat

made in the german fashion". What was the German Fashion? Evidence

suggests a short, striped petticoat with bands at the bottom."

Are you a little happier now? :)

KateE

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Kate Emerson

Date: Fri Dec 8, 2000 7:15 am

Subject: Re: [18cWoman] Petticoats with borders

Dear Mara,

I have found references to

Pennsylvania Germans having

petticoats with

borders/borders. If you look

closely at Lewis Millers painting

what Ellen

Gehret suggested was a tuck IMHO is

a border. Sometimes there is only

one

at the bottom edge or up an inch or

so. Sometimes two or three tucks

are

shown. (The tucks in Millers work

shows better when seen in real

life.)

Other paintings also show this but

my papers and notes are somewhere under

Christmas junk right now and the cat is asleep on my lap and Every One

Knows that you _Never_ Move a Cat! There are also references to bands on

petticoats "made in the German Fashion" in Lancaster County Wills. And

speaking of Dear Ellen Gehret, God love her for her early ground breaking

research _But_what she shows in her book _Rural_Pennsylvania Clothing _as a

banded petticoat is a tucked 19th Century petticoat worn UNDER a gown.

You all have probably discussed this before/already but I just couldn't

help my self in replying. :D

Yours

KateE

>Hm... I've been wondering if one ever sees petticoats in the American

>colonial context with a strip of tape or something sewn on as a band,

>a few inches above the hem, as one sees occasionally in European

>pictures. How would one search for that?

>Regards,

>Mara

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Kate Emerson

Date: Thu Oct 19, 2000 6:25 am

Subject: pesky, plagueing Palatine Krauts

Dear Nora and Gang,

In response to your question about

those pesky, plaguing, Palatines

....

Dear List,

>.......I am descended from the

Palatine Germans who settled in the

Mohawk

>Valley area of New York. I have

read that I need to do some

research on

> the ethnic groups that lived in

my area and such...but where do I

find this

>information? I would think the

library as one source, but are there

>sources on the web as well? Or maybe someone knows of some books that

>I may purchase.

You will have to dig through the inventories, wills and other probate.

There is (sigh) Ellen Gehret's book. It is 25 years old and was the

cutting edge when it was printed. BUT her pictures do not always agree

with the text, and she does not differentiate between the 18th and 19th

century. In a nut shell, be careful reading it. BUT she does have some

good pictures and instructions for stuff. Tandy Hersh has written some

very good books and articles that cover the Germans. She did two articles

for the Pennsylvania German Society on Mennonite embroidered aprons and

hankerchiefs as well as her book on Cumberland Valley, which was both

settled by Germans and those wild Scot-Irish types.

If you find a web source, please share! I've been looking --believe me!!!

I also read in the postings that checkered petticoats were

>worm by some german women from Pennsylvania.

I have not found checked petticoats worn by Germans and I will repeat

this, I have not found checked petticoats being worn by the Germans.---

checked aprons and handkerchiefs, both pocket & neck variety --- go for it,

but NOT petticoats. Please. :-( Contact me off the list and I'll give

you what I've found. I have a little article about this as well. I'm very

interested in the New York Palatines and would like to compare them with

the Pennsylvania Germans. The best place to look is in your county

courthouse for information.

Good Luck. :-)

KateE

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Kate Emerson

Date: Mon Oct 16, 2000 7:09 am

Subject: Re: [18cWoman] Corset Blanc and Hamburg lady

Dear Mara and Gang,

>Can you tell me where to find some

pictures of these? I'm looking

>into German rural costume right

now.

My first thought is "Where ever you

can find them!" No I'm not THAT

snippy

but it is Monday morning and I have

finally had some caffeine. (I have

to

wait for DH to leave as he can only

drink decaf, so I muddle through

until

about 9......) Forgive my smart

mouth. But it ain't that far off! The

_Costumes of Holland_ book well illustrates that end of these odd odd odd

bodices. (Hey guys, they ARE really strange to our eyes.) For the Germans,

try Hottenroth's, _Handbuch der Deutschen Tract_ . (There is a new one

out by him but I am loath to buy it sight unseen but maybe..... ) You

probably could get one from interlibrary loan. I have a copy. Do you ever

come to Fort Niagara? Also try _Costume & Conduct in the Laws of Basel,

Bern and Zu"rich_ by John Martin Vincent and look at any and all books

about Germany. They have lots of paintings, woodcuts and the like that

only seep over here. Another place is on 18th C. porcelain figurines made

in Dresden. I've looked at fraktur, embroidery samplers and just about

anything with a German provenance! PLEASE share what you find! I'm

still working on the subject myself.

The whole Leibchen/Mieder mess come about when I started reading

Pennsylvania-German wills and inventories. One Mennonite lady had what

ever this garment was, made in silk. Doesn't follow preconceived notions

does it. I think I'm still avoided by some of the more conservative

Anabaptists as they don't like to think of Great Grandmama in silk or with

silk ribbons on her cap, but then that is another story.

Just imagine all those neat pictures from Italy and Spain we don't see.

Some of you think that the Hamburg portrait is strange -- have you seen

18th C Polish or Hungarian fashions? Those are most remarkable! I was

fortunate enough to see that picture from the Hamburg Museum as part of a

lace exhibit in the mid-80s. There was some pretty spectacular stuff. --

and up close the painting in real life shows the fabric to be a brocade.

Isn't caffeine a Wonderful Drug?

KateE

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Kate Emerson

Date: Wed Sep 27, 2000 6:33 am

Subject: RE: [18cWoman] Dutch chintz biblio and article info promised!

Dear Sue and gang,

Constance Nieuwhoff, Willem

Diepraam, Cas Oorthuys, "The

Costumes of

Holland" (Amsterdam: Elsevier.

1985) This book is one of the few

books

available in the English language

that I've seen dealing with

continental

clothing worn by "the people". It's

not a book for scholars wanting

high

style costuming. Most of it covers

the 19th and 20th centuries but has

some lovely and intriguing glimpses

into the 18th century rural

clothing

of the Netherlands. The photographic demonstrations of women getting

dressed are wonderful. One shows the process of putting on a cap that has

17 different layers!

Redactie Ebeltje Hartkamp-Jonxis "SITS Oost West Relaties im Textiel"

Uitgeverij Waanders-Zwolle.

This excellent book is the result of an exhibit done in the Netherlands on

Dutch East India Company Textiles. A rough translation of the title would

be "Chintz, Textile relations between East & West". This book covers

chintz fabrics used in home furnishings and costume. Many photographs,

some in color, illustrate the text as well as maps and articles.

Unfortunately the latter are written in Dutch. If you know some German and

some English, the catalogue section is easy to translate. I'd LOVE someone

to translate the articles -- like the one on 18th century textile/fabric

definitions! That's above my reach! -- but wouldn't it be wonderful to

have their fabric names and descriptions.

I finally found the inventory articles I spoke/wrote of earlier. Both are

in Peter Benes ed. "Early American Probate Inventories" (Boston, MA:

Boston University Press, 1989) Anna L. Hawley "The Meaning of Absence:

Household Inventories in Surrey County, Virginia, 1690-1715" and Barbara

McLean Ward "Women's Property and Family Continuity in Eighteenth Century

Connecticut".

Gotta Run.........................

Kate E.

>

>If you give me more complete references for "Sits Oost-West Relaties

>in Textiel" and "The Costumes of Holland", I will add them to the

>source list. (Your other references are already there.) In order to

>add them, I would need at least the publisher and year, and

>preferably a capsule description/review for each and a translation of

>the first book's title ("Chintz East-West Relations in Textiles"???)

>

>Your affectionate servant,

>Sue Felshin

>sfelshin@ai.mit.edu

>18cWoman source list at:



>

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Allan T"

Date: Mon Sep 25, 2000 7:02 am

Subject: Re: [18cWoman] Hudson Valley Inventorys (long)

Ben and list,

I have only gone through 1718 -1729

probate records so far and have

found

only Two pr of stays I found no

mention of panniers or bum rolls

either.

Ccould this mean they were what we

call unmentionables? I have jet to

see

the use of the word sundries in any

of the records..

In the mens clothing I came accross

5 loose coats one with a matching

pr of

brechess. What is a loose coat

could it be the forerunner of a banyan?

Sandie T in CT

>

> Dear Friends:

> As some may recall, I recently offered a composite study of

Ulster

> County Inventories & Probate Records on clothing. I sent this to many of

you

> as requested, and as research has a nasty habit of creating more

questions, I

> went back to the records to re-look at them. I have decided to list them

on

> line for all.

> There are only 5 out of over 300+ that listed and described specific

women's

> clothing. They are as follows:

>

> 1757

> Frances Little of Wallkill, Ulster County NY (English/Dutch)

> Will Dated Sept. 5, 1757

> "... To my daughter Hanna Gallation....

> a black Bumbosy Gown, one new blew Quilted Peticote, one black Quilted

> Peticote, a black silk apron ..."

>

> 1787

> Inventory taken Oct. 31, 1787 - Will made 1781

> Abraham Turck of Kingston, Ulster County, NY ( German/Dutch)

> 1 womans linsey Woolsey Jacket . . . . . 1 schilling, 6 pence

>

> 1789

> Inventory "praised" Oct.1, 1789 - Will made March 12, 1785

> Johannis Oosterhoundt of Legewegh, Ulster County, NY (Dutch)

> A Callico Goun & some Petches . . . 1 Pound

> An old stuff Goun . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6 shillings

> A Callico short do. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 shillings

> A streaked Linnen do. . . . . . . . . . . 3 " "

> A white short do. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 " "

> 3 streaked Linnen Short gouns . . . . 6 " "

> 3 women waste coats . . . . . .. . . . . 3 " "

> A black Quilted Patticoat . . . . . . . . 10 " "

> 2 Liney Woolse Patticoats . . . . . . . .16 " "

> A woolen Patticoat . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 " "

> A woman Waistcoat & Pocket . . . . 6 pence

> 2 women shifts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12 Shillings,

> 3 pair woolen stockings . . . . . . . . . 6 " "

> 2 Linnen checked Aprons . . . . . . . .7 " "

> An old Liney Woolcy Patticoat . . . . 1 " "

> A Callico pocket . . . . . . . . . . .1 shilling, 6 pence

> A pair of Linnen stockings . . . 1 shilling, 6 pence

> A streaked do. handkerchief . . 2 shillings

> A Taffity Bonnet . . . . . . . . . . . 3 " "

> A short blew cloak . . . . . . . . . 6 " "

> A long blew cloak . . . . . . . . . 1 Pound, 10 shillings

>

> 1789

> Benjamin Merkle of Rochester, Ulster Co. NY (German/Dutch)

> 1 Callico Gown . . . . . . . . 1 Pound

> Black do. . . . .. . . . . . . 12 shillings

> Irish Cambric do. . . . . . 1 Pound, 5 shillings

> Black Quilted Petecoat . . 1 Pound

> wool do. . . . . . . . . . . . . .8 shillings

> struck do. . . . . . . . .. . 10 " "

> black do. . . . . . . . . . . 10 " "

> Blue Long Cloak . . . . . . . 12 " "

> 2 shifts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12 " "

> 1 do. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 " "

> 1 shift . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 " "

> 1 black cloak . . . . . . . . . 8 " "

> 1 blue do. . . . . . . . . . . . 12 " "

> 1 blue Peticoat . . . . . . 1 Pound, 11 shillings

>

> 1791

> Tjatie Dubois of Rochester, Ulster Co. NY July 2, 1791 (Dutch/ Huguenot)

> ..... 4 long Gowns, 7 short do., 3 long do., 3 white aprons, 1

Peticoat, 5

> check aprons, 7 pr. linen stockings, 9 handkerchiefs, 4 pair shoes,

3

> black handkerchiefs, 3 [ ?]ack Hoods, 1 persain apron, 1 broad cloth

cloak,

> 2 pr. woolen stockings, 1 short broad cloth cloak, 1 pr. silver sleeve

> buttons, 1 pr. silver shoe buckles, 1 silk gown, 1 old bonnet, 15

shirts

> (Shifts?).....

>

> The thing about these inventories that gets me is the glaring lack of

stays,

> and or jumps. Are they considered a part of the gown? And just what do

the

> mean by "womens watecoat"? I also like the point that two of these are

> women's wills, showing the Dutch influence in that women could own

property,

> run businesses, etc. If you could read all the will, you would also see

the

> Dutch habit of dividing ones estate equally among all the children, and

not

> just to the eldest as in English Law.

>

> Yours-

> Ben Carlos

> 1st Ulster Co. Militia

>

>

>

> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

>

>

>

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Sharon Henderson

Date: Sat Jul 22, 2000 9:47 am

Subject: Re: Facial hair

At Saturday, 22 July 2000, you

wrote:

>I know that men were clean shaven,

but my DH has a mustache. He is a

>third generation German, did they

have moustaches in 18th century? I

>would really hate for him to

shave! Doris

Coming out of lurk to answer

something I actually know: :-)

moustaches on GERMAN men were very

common, almost every picture of

a mature Hessian soldier, for

instance, features a moustache.

Many

of them look like Kaiser Wilhelm II, with the long 'stache whose

ends are trained upward with moustache wax.

From the German end of the spectrum,

Sharon Henderson

Fairfax, VA

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

-----Original Message-----

From: Sharon Ann Burnston

To: '18cWoman@'

Date: Friday, July 21, 2000 12:20 PM

Subject: RE: [18cWoman] The GERMAN Minister's Wife

>Dear Kari and "K",

>I respectfully beg to differ. Germans retained their language and religious

distinctions well into the 19c (a German language newspaper was published in

Germantown till about 1840), but as to clothing, I'm not so sure. I feel

strongly that what we call the "shortgown" was worn more by German-Americans

and sectarians (Quakers, Mennonites etc) than by others, but K is planning a

persona of a minister's wife, who in my opinion, would be aspiring to look

more like her affluent (English) neighbors. The idea of cultivating an

ethnic appearance out of ethnic pride does not apear to have been operative

in 18c America. The literature of the anthropology of

culture-change/assimilation suggests that for immigrant groups into this

country, clothing is among the things that change first, while language

adapts more slowly and foodways are among the things that change last.

Perhaps K should wear her shortgowns some of the time, but hey, German women

wore gowns too!

>

>My two cents worth,

>Yours, Sharon

>

>

>----------

>From: Kari La Bell[SMTP:gypsie@]

>Sent: Friday, July 21, 2000 8:07 AM

>To: 18cWoman@

>Subject: Re: [18cWoman] The GERMAN Minister's Wife

>

>I think one thing that everyone is forgetting is that you need to emphasize

>the GERMAN side of the persona. At that time, the German culture was still

>very distinct from the English, and often looked down upon by their English

>counterparts. In this area, the Germans did not make an effort to become

>English. That they were content with their heritage is evident in the fact

>that German was spoken in the area until the Civil War! Most German

Lutheran

>cemetaries have gravestones written in High German. A good reference for

>German clothing would be the Tidy's symposium "Back to Our Roots," books

one

>and two on immigrant influence in 18th century life. If you don't have

>these books, I would be happy to let you see mine. I live about 20 mins.

>southwest of Frederick, MD. Contact me off list if you wish.

>

>Kari

>-----Original Message-----

>From: natekakar@

>To: 18cWoman@

>Date: Thursday, July 20, 2000 12:13 PM

>Subject: [18cWoman] The Minister's Wife

>

>

>>Having changed my persona from a servant from N. England to the wife of a

>German minister from Frederick, MD, in the past year, I'm trying to do more

>research and shifting my attire from shortgowns and petticoats to gowns,

>etc.

>>

>>I have found materials on German migration through the PA to VA area, and

>what German women wore, but not much on what is appropriate for a Lutheran

>minister's wife. Frederick was a mixed area at this time, from what I've

>read -- there was a large German population, but a lot of "Englische", too,

>and the wealthier Germans tended to emulate the English. I have a sense

>that a Lutheran minister and his family would be "middling sorts" --

>respectable, but not leaders of fashion in any way.

>>

>>I have one linen-cotton gown, and am planning another of linen -- would

>these have been worn over any kind of roll, or side pockets, etc. circa

>1777? Would a minister's wife have had any gowns of silk, or satin?

>>

>>Would appreciate your thoughts.

>>

>>K

To:

18cWoman@

From:

"jfdiow"

Date:

Thu, 20 Jun 2002 15:55:48 -0000

Subject:

[18cWoman] black cap?

greetings, Some time ago we had a short discussion on coloured caps,

I'm not sure if this cap is actually black, or if it is black lace?

It's also on a Dutch (Deutsch/German) servant, she's also got a black

linen petticoat.

Judith in England

ITEM #19727

July 8, 1756

The Pennsylvania Gazette

RUN away, on the 23d of June last, from the subscriber, living

in Vincent township, Chester county, two Dutch servants,

husband and wife; ...snip... His wife is named Magdalen, a

lusty woman, about 30 years of age, had fair hair, and a sour

look: Had on and took with her, an orange coloured linsey

bedgown, three petticoats, one of linsey, striped red and

brown, another of brown cloth, bound about the tail with black,

and the third of black linen, a coarse shirt and apron ,** three

black Dutch laced caps.** She has with her a male child, named

Michael, five months old, little of his age. They carried with

them some bed clothes, and some Dutch books. Whoever takes up

and secures said servants, so as their master may have them

again, shall have Forty Shillings reward, and reasonable

charges, paid by ABRAHAM SMITH..

................
................

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