Microsoft Word - Foster%20Handbook%20-%2011-09[1].doc



Papillon Haven Rescue Foster Handbook“Pap Haven” Revised January 2020 Table of Contents…………………………………………………………………...……..………1Introduction……………………………………………………………………………………………..…...2Foster Contacts…………………………………………………………………………..……………..…..3Before You Begin as a Papillon Volunteer …………………………………………..……..….....4GOALS…………………………………………………………………………………………………………..6Flow Chart of how PapHaven works…………………………………………………………………7Team Leaders and Organizational Structure ………………………………………….……... 10-14 Regional Map with Listing of Directors………………………….…………………….…….......13-16Introduction to the Administration Website and Public Pap Haven Website …….…16 Guidelines for Picking Up Your New Foster ………………………………………….…….…. 17-20 General Fostering Guidelines ……………………………………………………….……………... 20-22 Introducing Your New Foster to Your Resident Dog ………………………………………..23-24 How to Grade Your Dog Food……………………………………………………………………..…25-27Hypoglycemia……………………………………………………………………………………….….…28Crate Training……………… ……………………………….……………………………………….…..29Vetting Guidelines…………………………………………………………………………………….….30Vetting Protocol…………………………………………………………………………………….…..…31STEP by STEP: Goals for fostering your newly rescued papillon …….…..…………....33If You Plan to Foster or Adopt a Mill Dog …………………………………………………….….34 Forms you will need and how to use them: ……………………………………………….…. 35a. Reimbursement form ……………………………………………………………... 36 b. Initial Base Foster Dog Report ……………………………………………..….. 37 c. BiWeekly Foster Update . ………………………………………………….………… 38 d. In case of an Accident …………………………………………..………………..… 39 e. Transfer release form ……..……………………………………………………....... 40f. Adoption Fee Schedule ………………………………………………………….…... 42 g. Holiday Adoptions……………………………………………………………………..... 43 h. General Fostering Policy Summary…..……………………………………….….. 44-45 Additional INSERTS for your Foster Handbook………………………………..……….…….….46 Dental Disease & Teeth Brushing……………………………………………………………..…….. 47Micro-chip Instructions………………………………………………………….….49Heartworm National Map……………………………………………………………………….…….. 50How to MARK a hard-sided Crate for PHR………………………………………………….…….. 51 RESOURCE GUARDING……………………………ADD ON (11/2014).….....52(INSERTS will be available with different topics periodically – please add to your Handbook)Papillon Haven Rescue A Safe Place for Papillons and the People Who Love ThemWelcome to the wonderful and challenging world of being a Papillon Foster Parent! There is nothing more gratifying and rewarding than rescue work, be it with animals or humans. We have chosen to rescue and help Papillon and Papillon mix breed dogs. We are all happy to welcome you to our Papillon family and know you will find this little breed to be a joyful addition to any home. On the following pages you will find some information that we hope will help you in your endeavors to get your foster pappy ready for its new forever home. All the members of Papillon Haven Rescue are standing by to assist you in every way. We have an Advisory Board of Directors, Regional Team Leaders, Foster Team Leader, a consulting Veterinarian and many others that have been working with the Papillon breed for many years. Each Papillon comes with its own distinct personality and, often times, with its own set of issues. If we all work together we can save these wonderful little dogs and get them into homes that will love and cherish them for the rest of their days. Thank you a million times for wanting to join our effort to protect this wonderful breed. Pappy Smooches! PLEASE PRINT OUT THIS HANDBOOK IN ITS ENTIRETY We suggest you obtain a small 3-ring notebook for quick reference for this Handbook as well as any other education material presented on the PappyCare YahooGroups site. PAPILLON HAVEN RESCUE FOSTER CONTACTS Foster Team Leader OpenBehavioral IssuesOpenSandy Comise zoniedog10@ 623-363-7955(c) (Mountain Time) WESTInTake & Placement Linda Fleisch fleisches1@ 315-452-9120 (h) , 315-481-6467 EASTSharon McGowan mcgowansauer@ 425-870-6920(c) WEST (MT. Time) Adoption Team Leader Andy Watson pappymom36@ 979-968-6350 h (Central Time)Sharon McGowan mcgowansauer@ 425-870-6920(c) (Mt. Time)Or…. Check our website Contact Us page where you mayclick your state to connect with your Region Team LeaderAll other:Jan Jorolan jorolan@ 501-815-2766(c) Central TimePAPILLON HAVEN RESCUE Before you begin as a Papillon Haven Rescue (“Pap Haven”) Volunteer, you will need to sign and fax an agreement stating that you have read and understood the following rules and regulations. This is for everyone’s protection, including our rescues! DO NOT, UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES, LET A PROSPECTIVE ADOPTER VISIT THE DOG BEFORE THEY HAVE BEEN APPROVED TO ADOPT. ALL Adoption Applications MUST be approved before any placement of a rescue dog occurs. (No exceptions can be made to this.) If you have possession of a Pap Haven foster dog, this dog MAY NOT UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES BE RETURNED TO THE PREVIOUS OWNER. THE OWNER TURN IN PAPERS ARE IRREVOCABLE AND ARE LEGALLY BINDING. They also may not be moved to another home (foster home or adoptive home) without permission and approval of the Pap Haven directors and/or the Foster Team Leader. Each Pap Haven dog is to be fully vetted before placement. In most cases, Pap Haven will pay directly for the vetting. All medical treatment (except for emergencies) needs to be authorized for each dog. A letter can be prepared for you to take to your veterinarian, or our Medical Team Leader can contact the vet directly to make arrangements. Please note that the drug Rimadyl is not to be used for long term on any of the Pap Haven Rescue dogs. You may use Medicam or ask your vet for a substitute if he wants to use this drug. Nor do we use Revolution as a preventative, or other brands except what we provide.If you are taking in an Owner Surrender, you will need the following form, to be signed by the person turning in the dog, and by yourself. RELEASE AND SURRENDER FOR ADOPTION (see Admin Site). Never take your own animals with you to the home of an owner turn in. If we asked you to go get an Owner Surrender, time is of the essence. Please do not think that the dog will be safe for a few more days. Often, it will not. Let us know if you cannot go right away, so we may try to find another volunteer. If you get to the home of the Owner Surrender and for any reason do not feel the dog will work out being fostered at your home, please do not leave it there! We will pay for boarding until another foster home can be found. The ONLY exception is the Pap you are about to pick up and bring with you is a BITER. When you are going to retrieve a dog from a shelter, we can email a copy of our 501c3 papers, for you to take with you to the shelter, together with a Transfer and Release form. Many times the shelter does not have their own release form. If not, DO NOT LEAVE without getting our own form(s) executed. If for some reason you must be at the shelter without the needed documents, and the Shelter does not have a release form, etc. then write out some kind of Release Form saying they release the doggie to Pap Haven and get the shelter representative to sign and date it. If one of our fosters dogs goes missing, contact your Foster Care Team Leader or Regional Team Leader or any of our contact names immediately so that we may help you to have the best chances of recovery. We have a LOST DOG packet (admin site) with instructions, if one of our dogs gets away from you. ALL Pap Haven rescue doggies MUST wear collars and/or harness and PHR identification tags at all times. (We furnish PHR tags which you may obtain from your foster team leader when you request preventative medications) ADOPTING YOUR FOSTERIt is very important if you decide you wish to adopt your foster Pap, the Adoption Team be notified immediately. Even if the dog is not yet on the public website, it is imperative that you notify the team by an e-mail or by sending in an Adoption Application as soon as you have made the decision to adopt the foster.The goal of the Adoption Team is to match up a potential adopter with the needs of the Pap who will best fit these requirements. Usually the adopters have a Pap in mind when they apply but sometimes they don't and sometimes the Pap they wanted to adopt is not a good fit. At that point, the Adoption Team will suggest available Paps that might be right for the family. Sometimes we also suggest Paps who are not yet listed as "Adoptable" on the public website but who are almost ready for that big step. This is why it is terribly important to let the Adoption Team know your intentions as soon as possible. It is not good public relations to mention a Pap to the potential adopter only to have the foster mom or dad decide that they just can't let the dog go to another home.Some rescue organizations have hard and fast rules about allowing foster parents to adopt their foster dog. PapHaven has no such rules. We generally allow the foster families to adopt their foster dogs and rarely say no. But we do ask your cooperation in informing the Adoption Team of your intentions as soon as possible.Sleeping ArrangementsFoster Paps should not be allowed to sleep in the big bed with their two legged foster parents. All foster Paps should be encouraged to sleep in a doggie bed or in their crate. We have had several foster Paps that have fallen from beds which have caused injury to the Pap. We are also seeing adoptive homes who want their Paps to sleep in a crate or in a dog bed and once a foster has been used to sleeping in the big bed they are needing to be retrained once rehomed which is proven to be difficult and sometimes stressful for the adoptive home. It also may cause a potential home to look at only those dogs that are not used to sleeping with their people. In a time when we are seeing more and more dogs coming into foster care and dogs being returned to PapHaven we need to give our fosters every chance to succeed in their potential adoptive homes and this is one of those things that we can do to help.We all have our own preferences for our own dogs and that is o.k. There is nothing wrong with letting your dog sleep with you if that is what you prefer, (I personally love my own dogs being in the bed with me) but I also know if something happens to one of my own dogs I am 100% responsible for their vetting because of it. We need to remember our fosters do not belong to us. So, cuddle them, but at bedtime please get your foster used to sleeping in a doggie bed or in their crate. GOALS (in order) we hope to achieve during fostering:Restore Health- As soon as possible your new foster should be taken to the vet for an evaluation. (thorough checkup) Please refer to vetting protocol for questions. There is a cap on medical expenses of $250.00. If your foster needs special tests or anything outside our vetting protocol it must be approved prior to the test.TeethParasitesBrucellosis short test- ONLY if from a commercial breeder or substandard breeder.Heartworm test- DO NOT need if the dog has been on monthly heartworm prevention and we have vet records and the dog has had a heartworm test within the last year. All PapHaven rescues will be maintained on heartworm prevention year round. Heartworm prevention and flea medication will be provided by PapHaven. On the PapHaven website under forms there is an online medication form that once filled out will automatically be sent to our medication manager, Antoinette (Toni) Johnson. If you have any questions please email Toni at ChiantiXtra@ Bring up-to-date on basic vaccinations- if giving full coverage on vaccinations, delay rabies for 10 days or more after to decrease risk of a negative reaction.Spay/NeuterSocialize – Always give treat & praise for POSITIVE behavior. Ignore the negative. Introduce your foster to your own fur babies only after the foster has been given a clean bill of health from your veterinarian. Your foster should meet your pack one at a time which will help with the transition for your new foster, by serving to maintain order, reduce conflict and promote cooperation among the pack members. Many times our fosters watch and learn from our own dogs.If you have a foster who is fearful of being held or picked up -- start slow. Leave them on a long leash at first so that you can guide them to potty or where you need them to be without having to corner or chase them. Always allow them to see an outstretched hand and always approach them from the front. Do not use sudden movements or fast approaches. Patience is the key.Sit on the floor with the dog and sprinkle treats around your feet and legs so the dog associates you with good things. You can offer treats with your hand but don’t get frustrated if your foster does not want to take treats with your hand in the beginning. It is o.k. to toss them on the floor.After your foster trusts YOU completely (and not before) start taking them on trips to friends or PetSmart/PetCo. Start out with nonthreatening soft, lightweight toys. Leave them lying around the house and eventually they will pick them up especially if your foster sees your own dogs playing with them.I have Read the Foster Handbook Before you begin as a Papillon Haven Rescue (“PapHaven”) Volunteer, you will need to sign and return your agreement stating that you have read and understood the following rules and regulations as set out on these pages (4-7) of the Foster Handbook, plus the contents of the Foster Handbook. Name: _____________________________________Signature: ___________________________________Date: ______________________Send via email to: jan Jorolan HYPERLINK "mailto:jorolan2@" jorolan2@PAPILLON HAVEN RESCUEA Safe Place for Papillons and the People who Love ThemRELEASE AND HOLD HARMLESS AGREEMENTFOSTER CAREI acknowledge that Papillon Haven Rescue (PapHaven) an animal rescue organization, is the current owner of the Papillon or Papillon mix dog (s) that I will be fostering in my home as part of PapHaven’s rescue efforts and rehabilitation programs. I further acknowledge that PapHaven has informed me that it may transpire that some or any of the dogs may bite and/or has bitten or caused personal injury to persons who were attempting to provide care for him in the course of rescue.Despite having been fully informed by PapHaven of the risk that this may cause or attempt to cause injuries to myself and/or other persons, it is my intention and desire to provide Foster Care (as defined in the Foster Care Guidelines) for any/some dog(s) for PapHaven thereby assuming all risks associated with each dog’s temperament. I understand and agree that by executing this Agreement I am forever waiving and releasing any and all claims or causes of action that I have or may have had against PapHaven for damages that may be caused by the rescued dog (s) while in Foster Care, including without limitation, claims arising from personal injuries and/or property damages.In particular, I agree that I will not initiate or participate in any claim, lawsuit, or administrative proceeding against PapHaven in connection with any damages that the rescued dog(s), may cause by biting, scratching or otherwise injuring myself or any other person.I acknowledge that I am entering into this Agreement voluntarily and with the intent of being legally bound by its terms. AGREED AND ACKNOWLEDGED THIS DATE _________________BY:RELEASOR ____________________________________ Signature _____________________________________ Printed NameSend via email to: Jan Jorolan jorolan2@General statement 01/015All will work together for the betterment of Papillon Haven Rescue?????? MANAGEMENT TEAMDirectors:? financial; medical; archival records, all areas of ultimate responsibility are for the Directors.Advisory Board:? advises the Directors on issues within and outside of PapHaven.PROJECTS Librarian – Amy Fretz - Collects educational materials, books, magazines related to the Papillon breed plus general training and health issues. These are available for check out to the members.? Newsletter – Nora Lenahan - Editor Events/Creative – Liddy-ann Everett Special WEBSITE Projects: Pet Finder web – Pat Ebaugh ?? Media/Face Book Coordinators – Annie Johnson? seek suitable websites to link our PHR site and web searches to benefit our causeCafé Press – Bonnie Bias & Mary Fournier; eBay – Paula Dane – Jan JorolanRainbow Bridge – Bonnie BiasHappy Tails – Happy Tales –PapHaven Yahoo List – Yahoo has closed down all but the email functions.Shopping Mall Manager – Jan Jorolan monitors the Mall and takes inquiries and orders – coordinates sales with members with merchandise and shipping to purchaser. Jan JorolanBlankie and Foster Balls – PapMingle – Liddy-ann EverettZazzle - Liddy-ann Everett??????? Fund Raising -- Jan Jorolan (Donna Moore) Lynn Pawley, Annie Johnson, Paula DaneKaren Peterson – web opportunities Grants and Grant writing -- Spring & Fall Auction: Lynn Pawley, Amy Fretz, Sharon McGowan & Paula Dane need more helpWestminster Games – Annie Johnson (Jan Jorolan) cancelled 2014PHR Calendars – Mary Fournier (Jan Jorolan) Amy Fretz-shipping??????? Admin Site Monitor and Support - Linda Fleisch, Sharon McGowan & Jan JorolanEnters new IN-COMING (Linda & Sharon): Keeps DOG LOG (Intake Log)? – Legal list of all rescues in our group and their disposition; completes FINAL records (Jan) (send pictures to Bonnie Bias) Dog Log Name Keeper:? Sharon McGowan. Admin Records “checker” - Lyndell Penney Adoption - Andy Watson Sharon McGowan Records Assist. Missy EnglehartReceive and process Applications for Adoption.? Answer prospective adopters' questions or direct to proper person.? Work with Foster Home Coordinator to complete the cycle.? ??? Monitor the Adoption webpage for up-to-date status of each rescue. Adoption Announcements: Andy Watson and Foster Moms/DadsNew Foster Home Apps:?Andy Watson & Missy EnglehartDNA – NEED (Jan Jorolan) (for Foster Coordinator/Adoption Coordinator): review regularly the National Do Not Adopt databank and post to the membership any person deemed not fit for adoption. ?Post Adoption Liaison – Ginger Heard & Gail O’ Conner & Joyce YoungWill do a follow-up interview with the Adopter at about one month; three months and one year to see how the Rescue Pap is adjusting to the new Forever Family.?Finance – Donna Moore (Jan Jorolan)?? Accounting; funds acquisition; banking; reporting; fund raising.???????????????????????????? Virtual Foster site: (Jan Jorolan) Tracking donations for specific paps and providing update to subscribers. Foster Home Team Leader – open ----NEEDMaintain contact with all Foster Homes. Help with fostering issues, compliance with guidelines and policies, continuing education, training and mentoring, and fostering Goals. Work with In-Take & Placement Leaders in placing incoming Paps in proper and/or available foster homes. Assist Adoption Team Leader in Receiving/processing Foster Home Applications. Works with Foster Homes in making Adoption decisions. Notify Adoption Coordinator when a rescue deemed ready for Adoption. Micro-Chip: Micro Chipping will have co-responsibility with Chip Manager Lyndell Penney and the RTLs. To be maintained on Chip Log and the DOG LOG. Send original Micro Chip paperwork to Jan Jorolan.Chip Manager: Lyndell Penney lyndelll@ CA time 805 737-0072(h) 805 291-3346(c) Meds Manager: Toni Johnson ChiantiXtra@ - EMAILEducation: Jan JorolanBehavior Consultant - Sandie Comise - zoniedog10@ WEST?In-Take - Linda Fleisch – EAST & Sharon McGowan - WEST???????????? Initiating rescue. Intake of rescued doggies. Full fills data gathering of initial PIN request. Assists Regional Team Leader in placing in foster home. Extensive networking with other rescue groups/shelters and/or transporting groups.? Works with Adoption Coordinator, Region Team Leaders, Foster Team Leader. Assist in Coordinating Transporting of In-Take Paps?with Transport Leader and/or Region Team Leader;?Assist in moving foster paps?when needed.PINs Archive: Tina Bergstrom Maintains archival files of all IN-TAKE PINs??????? Transportation – Lynn Grenier & OTRA & other reliable groupsNet work with other Transporting Groups for national contacts.? "Run & map" (coordinate) and monitor a rescue transport.?Crate Librarian: Sharon McGowan Keep Log of all CRATES for transporting. Try to anticipate where next In-Take need will be and get them there. We require our Paps be crated during transports.NOTIFY Sharon when a Pap moves with one of the PHR Crates.??Medical - 3 rotating DVM advisors reporting back to Directors.Directors have the responsibility for: Interfaces with veterinary clinics and hospitals, maintains medical records/reports, advises on the health and well-being of our rescues.? Keeps the membership up-to-date on medical advisories, etc. Working with Foster Team Leader and Foster Mom/Dads with health issues and providing preventatives. All medical records are due to Jan Jorolan immediately upon treatment or evaluation. Most Vet Invoices are now paid via PHR Credit Card (jan jorolan)Operations – Jan JorolanOversight of the organization, documentation and development.?Webmaster – Tami Jones Bradford??? Design and maintain our website.Keep Organization Officers posted on any dead-lines for domain, or web subscriptions. ?Volunteer Sunshine Committee - Gail O’Connor & Kathy TerryNeed more members Communicates with the membership. WELCOME newcomers - Social amenities -- reminder to PHR Yahoo Group list for members to enter birthday dates on yahoo list calendar. Cards (electronic) to members when needed. Correspondence - Thank You notes, etc.------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------REGIONS:??? ??????? Region Team Leaders will be the leader for their Region.? Establish a communications network with the members in their respective region and stay in close contact.? Recruit other members and/or potential foster homes.? Organize and lead a rescue within the region in conjunction with the In-Take and Placement Team Leader.? Implement action to coordinate with other regions and/or other Team Leaders as needed.? Be knowledgeable of PHR Guidelines, Procedures, Policies and Processes. Collect applications and other data.?? Distribute educational/training and other printed materials.? Conduct and/or assist with coordinating Home Visits.? Meet with other Team Leaders monthly (or as called). Process New Volunteer Applications. Deposit PapHaven General Representative Applications and Volunteer Applications in designated archive sites.?Region 1: WA; MT; OR; ID – Sharon McGowan (AZ + WA)?Region 2: TX -- Annie Johnson?Region 3: NE; KS; OK -- NeedRegion 4: MO; AR; LA; MS. -- Need?Region 5: WI; IL; IN; MI; KY; OH -- Need?Region 6: VA; WV; PA; MD; DE; NJ -- Lynn Grenier (PA)?Region 7: NY; CT; RI; MA; NH; VT; ME -- NEED?Region 8: TN; NC; SC; GA; AL; FL -- Catherine Parrish (FL) Joyce Young KY?Region 9: ND; SD; MN; IA -- (Nancy Sundberg) RETIRED NEED NEW?Region 10: CA; NV -- Lucille Collura & Lyndell Penney (CA)?Region 11: CO; UT; WY; AZ -- covered by Sharon McGowan (AZ)?Region 12: NM - Greg & Beth Connors (NM)?(all non-filled Regions default back to Jan Jorolan)Board of DirectorsJan JorolanAndrea WatsonDonna Moore?Advisory Members Advisory Members are elected every two years in staggered fashion.Bob FoulkLinda FleischAmy FretzNancy SundbergLyndell Penney===================================================================PAPILLON HAVEN RESCUE Websites: (our website is “duel” i.e. two sides) The Pap Haven Administration (called the “Admin Site”) is located at: The PapHaven Public Website is located at: Admin Site: Each member of Pap Haven has his or her own password for entering the admin site. The user name is your last name and your password is what you have chosen. Generally, the first time you log onto the admin site your password is paps (this password will change from time to time). Once you log on the first time you will need to change your password to something that you will remember and no one else will know, including the Foster Team Leader. If you should forget what your password is please contact the Foster Team Leader or Jan Jorolan who can then reset your password so you can log on and change it again.In order to change your password once you log onto the Admin Site click on People under Operations; click on me (at the top of the page in the middle of the screen). This will bring up your contact information, click on edit, under access password erase the dots and type in a password you will remember. You will not see letters but dots. Once finished, look at the bottom of the page click on Update. There is a wealth of information for all of us on the Admin Site. In order to use the site without problems, please make sure you have any “popup blockers” disabled. The left side of the page gives you all the areas that you can visit while on the site. When you click on one of the choices on the left column it will open a new area on the right. You will now have more options to choose from on the right side. Please feel free to look around the entire site, it is a work under constant progress and will change often. All the members, animals and forms will be on this website. When you go to PEOPLE (on the left) you will then have choices on the right, one of which is “me” (meaning yourself). This is the information we have for you and it can be changed or corrected by clicking on the edit button. Always click on update at the bottom of the edit popup when you are done. The information on you should be kept up to date at all times as this is where everyone looks to get phone numbers, address’, email address’ etc. It also produces a map of your location, which is very helpful if we are trying to place or move a foster dog. Please keep this information current. When you go to the Animal selection under OPERATIONS, on the left it will then list all animals currently in the system (including yours). This is the information that feeds the public website that in turn feeds Pet Finder’s website. The bio of your foster is shown here along with photos. The public will see these foster pappies in full view on our public web site and/or Pet Finder. Again, this information needs to be current and as accurate as possible. You have the ability to edit your own foster information. Please make sure that the information completed on your foster dog is the most current at all times. Again, click on the update button on the bottom of the popup page. The age, weight, height and medical status are critical. Current photos are a must so please take them often and email them to Bonnie Bias bjbias@ or Jan Jorolan – jorolan2@. Attempting to take a close up picture as well as a full length picture are good choices for potential adopters. (face & body)Once again, the accuracy of this information is critical in getting your foster dog noticed, wanted and adopted! NOTE: Before changing the "status" to Adoptable, notify Jan or Andy. Only they should change the status to these two categories as it triggers everything loading to the Public side of our PapHaven website. Other tasks also need to be completed BEFORE this happens. Public Site: I am sure that everyone will agree that this site is simply gorgeous! The artwork, buttons and design are stunning and the information provided will certainly help the public in understanding the breed and finding a Papillon of their own. Please visit this site often. It will have information for the public and the members. We are eternally grateful for the work of Jon Grubb in setting up our wonderful website and for “Z” for her wonderful sketches.GUIDELINES FOR PICKING UP YOUR NEW FOSTERLook at the teeth when you see the dog. Minimize stress on the dog and minimize cost, if the teeth really need cleaning and the dog is taken to the shelters contract vet for neutering, make sure they clean the teeth at the same time. Also, request they do an anal expression and trim the nails. This saves the cost of a second anesthetic (good for the dog and good for us, they normally never charge for the anal purge and nail trim) and the contract vet's office will usually give you a price reduction for the teeth cleaning too. You MUST inquire what anesthesia is used at the shelter vet clinics – Isofluoran (or upgrade) is the approved one for Papillons. Paps are super sensitive to the common form used and in some cases have died. There is a new IM (intramuscular) form of anesthesia – Telazol – that is causing reactions in Papillons, so it is not recommended or accepted by PapHaven. These are the things we want done at the shelter vet...please get an estimate first, if possible. Spay/Neuter (Unless said rescue is possibly pregnant. Let us (Jan or Andy) know if this is the case.) Vaccinations (Please put the rabies tag on the dog immediately...in case it should get lost; they will be able to track him or her. Also, if you have an old rabies tag for your dog, you might even temporarily put it on his or her collar...it will be a way for someone who might find the dog, to contact you. Heartworm check. If a mill doggie, ask for a Brucellosis short test. Check condition of teeth. Check for parasites if found start deworming. Condition of nails/feet/skin/ears, etc. Have your vet do a hearing and sight test so that we may let adopters know how well their new dog can see and hear. SEE VETTING PROTOCOL (to be printed out and taken to the Vet Clinic) If a dog is taken from a shelter, then it should be taken to a vet immediately, without it going home to the volunteer's house first, if possible. If not, then the dog should be quarantined somewhere far from the other animals in the house, and then go to the vet the next day or as soon as possible. Safety First! There are times when the rescue you are to pick up may have a disease that is not obvious. As a precaution, wear long sleeves and use latex gloves when handling doggies that you do not have firm documented health information on. Things to take with you when you go to pick up the new rescue: Paper towel for clean ups; Old bath towel for comfort in the crate; Treats – good for diversion when needing to put on collar, etc.; Toy that makes a squeak or noise – also good for diversion; and, Bottled water and bowl. The shelter may provide you with a short leash that has a loop on the end. We recommend that you take a harness or a collar (preferably a martingale collar if the Pap is larger), and a leash of your own. Ask if they checked for a microchip. If so, get the number. Ask what shots they have given him. Ask for all of the history they may have on the Pap, the family it came from, etc. Did it receive regular vet care? Why was it turned in (Use as a guideline this may not be the "whole truth.") What kind of food is the dog use to eating? What kind of personality have they observed? Any issues? Evaluate for fleas and/or ticks. You may want to treat the rescue with Capstar for a quick kill of the fleas then use Frontline or Advantage before it goes home with you. When you arrive at home put him in the place you have prepared for him. Show him food and water bowls. Maybe a special toy or bone just for him. Remember that a change of diet can cause intestinal distress so be prepared. Give him time to rest in his new home without stimulation from outside sources before introducing him to the rest of the family. He is under stress and more than likely was just neutered or spayed so is feeling the effects of anesthesia. When you feel comfortable, introduce him to the other family members SLOWLY and let him tour his new home under supervision. How much of the house he gets to investigate will depend upon whether or not you are going to quarantine the dog for a few days. You will need some time to determine if he is housebroken or not. Make certain your fence is secure, and keep him on a leash at first, even in a fenced area, in case he can climb a fence. Or in the case of mill rescues, they may bolt to the far corner and try to evade capture. (Ask about the “trailing leash” method) Also see Puppy Mill information within this Handbook. You may choose to put your rescue in a crate, playpen or exercise pens to be able to confine a marking, or not housebroken dog, yet allow it to be with you. You may prefer an ex-pen (exercise pen) or playpen because it is more open. You can reach in and pet or love on the dog easily. Both folds down so can be moved to always be where you are. The dog can stand, sit, lie down, or stand on his hind legs without any restrictions. There is room for food and water bowl and a bed. An adjustable gate is very handy for keeping the dog in a safe place like the kitchen or bathroom when you have to leave the house without him. It is open, lets air circulate and the dog can see out, but it safely confines him or her. It is strongly recommended to isolate (Quarantine) a dog that comes from a shelter for a few days before letting it interact with your personal pets. Kennel Cough is highly contagious and is airborne. Also, parasites can highly be contagious so it is imperative if you have other pets to pick up any feces immediately. It is a good recommendation to have a separate area in your yard that your other dogs do not use to allow your new foster to go to the bathroom until your new foster has been cleared of any and all parasites. It is good to have a safe place where you can observe the rescue and yet he can be part of your family. It is absolutely imperative to keep your own pet's boosters current when doing rescue work. Your pets MUST come first! It is very helpful to take the time to interact with the dog you are considering rescuing. Walk around with him or her. Hold the dog often. Speak softly to him or her, and assure this new fur bay that everything is going to be all right. See how it reacts to you handling its ears, paws, and tail. This can give you an idea if the dog is timid, or very friendly. Does it go to the bathroom as soon as it is let out of its kennel? If it does, it may be a good indication that he or she housetrained. Does he or she seem happy to be with you? A Pap brought into rescue, has to be neutered or spayed before leaving. Remember, the Pap cannot be bathed for 10 days after surgery. Make a vet appointment as soon as possible to get a general evaluation of the dog's health. Please get all vet visits approved, first, before you go to the vet. Please ask if your vet will give a discount, for rescue dogs. Most vets will give a 25 to 30 % discount for true rescue dogs. We have all necessary documentation, to prove we are a legitimate non for profit rescue group. Regarding Heart Worm and Flea and Tick preventative, PapHaven will pay for only what the dog uses while in rescue with PapHaven. Never give heartworm preventative without a current negative heartworm test, unless the dog has been on monthly heartworm preventative AND we have vet records, which show a heartworm test within the last year. If you need to use one or two of your own HW preventative pills, while the Pap is in rescue, you may ask the Medication Manager to reimburse you for what you have used. We will not reimburse financially for HW prevention and/or flea medication as we do provide this to every foster that requests. You may choose to donate your own HW prevention and/or flea medication which can be deducted from your taxes each year. In order to request medication please go the admin site Under Forms and Documents click on Fosters and you will see an online medication form. Click on this form and fill out completely including fosters weight. Once you complete and send it is automatically sent to the Medication Manager. The desire is that all forms are completed by the 10th of the month and all medication will be mailed out on the 11th. The goal is to have all meds received by/on the 15th of the month schedule. The medications we provide are HeartGuard for Heartworm Prevention and Frontline for Flea Prevention.We do not use PROHEART 6 (now withdrawn from the market), Comfortis, Trifexis or REVOLUTION a triple poison application for Heartworm, Flea/Tick prevention. We prohibit the doubling up of two different preventatives at the same time. To kill fleas instantly, use Capstar, a non-prescription found at many Pet Stores or at your local vets.In HIGH Flea/Tick regions, contact Jan Jorolan for some options. Send the vet evaluation/notes and a picture of the rescue to In-Take Team Leader, as soon as possible. You may fax us at 1.501.865.4600, or email Jan Jorolan at: jorolan2@ Get the dog vetted as soon possible so that any health problems are discovered and immediately cared for. Our rescue will need a clean bill of health so that he/she can go to its "forever home" as soon as one is found. For reimbursement use the Reimbursement Form included in this handbook and also on the Admin Site and mail original copies of the shelter rescue fee (if any) and vet bills within 30 days to: Papillon Haven Rescue c/o Donna Moore 1440 Mt. Vista Dr. Knoxville, TN 37920If you have a scanner you may scan bills and send with the form to: hezekiahmoore@ and jorolan2@ Please make sure you keep a copy of all of your vet bills and records in your own file until your foster is adopted just in case any records are needed.Papillon Haven Rescue General Fostering Guidelines When you arrive home take the dog to the place you have prepared for him. Show him food and water bowls, and perhaps provide him with a special toy or bone just for him. Provide comfortable, clean towels or other padding for him to sleep on. Give him time to rest in his new environment without stimulation from outside sources before introducing him to the rest of the family. Acclimate him to other members of the family, both animal and human, gradually, that is, short exposures, and then a rest period. Many times a foster dog is already experiencing elevated stress levels due to leaving their previous environment. It is advisable to take things slowly so as not to overwhelm them with too much stimulation too quickly. Whenever a dog is experiencing elevated stress levels, he is more susceptible to displaying behavioral challenges or to acquiring physical health complications. Try to put yourself in his place. Perhaps you will better understand how potentially frightening all these changes can be. Perhaps he has just been neutered or spayed, and is feeling the effects of anesthesia, or maybe he has just received vaccines and is not feeling up to par. When you feel he is ready, introduce him to the other family members (2 and 4 legged) SLOWLY and let him tour his new home under supervision. How much of the house he gets to investigate will depend upon whether or not you are going to quarantine the dog for a few days. Bathing Plan to bathe your foster dog as soon as possible once arriving in your care. EXCEPTION: Do not bathe if extremely fearful, aggressive, or suspect he could be ill. Check for any skin lesions or flea or tick infestations, particularly behind ears, between toes and under arms. Dog not Eating It is very common for a foster dog arriving in a new home to refuse food until they feel more settled. Sometimes, they will even refuse water. Days could potentially go by before they are willing to eat. This places your foster dog in serious danger of having his blood sugar dip too low, which can result in a hypoglycemic seizure. To prevent this, it is imperative that they receive nutrients from day one of arriving in your care. If you detect that they are not eating, immediate steps must be taken to ensure their safety. Notify Jan Jorolan, or your Foster Team Leader immediately if your new foster is not eating or drinking. As a rule of thumb, please note the following guidelines: A dog can go 24 hours without food if they are still drinking water. But, if he goes 48 hours and is not eating, then medical help MUST be sought even if he is still drinking. If he is not drinking, then medical care needs to be found within 24 hours. NutraStat is a product that is available through most pet supply catalog companies or local pet supply retailers. It is always advisable to have a tube of this on hand. It is easy to administer, and you may find that your foster dog readily accepts it. White Karo Syrup is also a good remedy for low blood sugar. If your foster dog rejects it, don’t give up. Place some on the tip of your finger and insert it into this mouth. Some dogs will also accept a spoonful of canned dog food, or a little chicken and rice, even if they won’t eat any dry kibble. Persistence in getting your foster dog to take in nutrients is a necessity. Young puppies are especially vulnerable to waning blood sugar levels. See HYPOGLYCEMIA Housetraining You will need to assess the dog’s level of housetraining, and respond accordingly. Remember that a change in diet can cause intestinal distress, as can a stressful change in environment, so be prepared for this eventuality with plenty of paper toweling and an enzymatic cleaner (such as Nature’s Miracle) to clean up accidents. Make sure your fence is secure, and keep him on a leash at first, even in a fenced area, in case he can climb a fence. Or, in the case of a mill rescue, they may bolt to the far corner and try to evade capture. If the dog is not housetrained and you need help with this process, please contact your Foster Team Leader, or Jan Jorolan. Please do not punish the dog for accidents, rather ignore this behavior and take him outside. Show him where to go, and praise and treat any successes. Sometimes, it is necessary for younger or untrained dogs to be leashed to you, and taken out at regular intervals until they learn what is expected. YOU are also learning during this period what signals the dog gives to let you know he needs to go. The use of bellybands or potty pants is approved if necessary with the ultimate goal being successful housetraining. Housing You may choose to put your rescue in a crate, playpen or exercise pen to be able to confine a dog that is not housebroken or one who marks, yet allow him to be near you. You may prefer an ex-pen or playpen because it is more open. You can reach in and pet the dog easily. Both fold down and can be moved to always be where you are. The dog can stand, sit, lie down or stand on his hind legs without any restrictions. There is room for food and water bowls and a bed. An adjustable gate is very handy for keeping the dog in a safe place like the kitchen or bathroom when you have to leave the house without him. It is open, lets air circulate and the dog see out, but safely confines him. NOTE: Your foster dog must NEVER be left outside unsupervised, or housed out of doors, tied to a stake, tethered or on a “trolley”. Fill out the initial Foster Base Report form with as much information as possible and email it to adopterspaps@ as soon as possible. Email digital Photographs to Jan Jorolan jorolan@ as soon as you get the Pap home. We will get updated photographs from you periodically but an immediate photo is needed to help identify our new Pap. Compose a short bio of the dog as soon as you can and email to Jan Jorolan. We will get updated information periodically and adjust this bio as needed. Again, the initial information is important for identification of the dog. Vacations Everyone needs to take a break from everyday life including fostering. However, please let us know when you are leaving and when you expect to return and where your foster will be during the time you are away. Make certain that whoever is caring for your foster has all the contact information for Jan Jorolan, and your Foster Team Leader or Region Team Leader. Also be sure that you leave detailed instructions of what to do in the event of an emergency while you are gone and detailed instructions on the care of your foster: The name, phone number and address of your vet; The feeding schedule of your foster and the brand of food to feed him or her; Any health issues and if needed, a list of medications and when to administer them; Phone numbers to reach you while you are away; Make sure you send your fosters bed and favorite toys with him or her to minimize the anxiety level; and, If possible, see if there is another foster in your area that could take care of your doggie while you are gone. You could then reciprocate when that foster needs time off. If you have any concerns at all, please do not hesitate to contact: Jan Jorolan, Angela Hubbard Foster Team Leader or your Region Team Leader immediately to address these concerns. Papillon Haven Rescue Introducing Your New Dog to Your Resident Dog Copyright 2000. Dumb Friends League. All rights reserved. (Used with permission) Animals that live in groups, like dogs, establish a social structure within the group called a dominance hierarchy. This dominance hierarchy serves to maintain order, reduce conflict and promote cooperation among pack members. Dogs also establish territories, which they may defend against intruders or rivals. This social and territorial nature affects their behavior when a new dog is introduced to their household. Introduction Techniques Choose A Neutral Location: Introduce the dogs in a neutral location so that your resident dog is less likely to view the newcomer as a territorial intruder. Each dog should be handled by a separate person. With both dogs on a leash, take them to an area with which neither is familiar, such as a park or a neighbor’s yard. If you frequently walk your resident dog in a park near your house, they may view that park as their territory, so choose another site that’s unfamiliar to them. Use Positive Reinforcement: At the first meeting, you want both dogs to expect "good things" to happen when they’re in each other's presence. Let them sniff each other, which is normal canine greeting behavior. As they do, talk to them in a happy, friendly tone of voice never use a threatening tone of voice. Don’t allow them to investigate and sniff each other for a prolonged time, as this may escalate to an aggressive response. After a short time, get both dogs' attention, and give each dog a treat in return for obeying a simple command, such as "sit" or "stay." Take the dogs for a walk and let them sniff and investigate each other at intervals. Continue with the "happy talk," food rewards and simple commands. Be Aware Of Body Postures: One body posture that indicates things are going well is a "play bow." One dog will crouch with their front legs on the ground and her hind end in the air. This is an invitation to play that usually elicits friendly behavior from the other dog. Watch carefully for body postures that indicate an aggressive response, including hair standing up on the other dog's back, teeth bearing, deep growls, a stiff legged gait or a prolonged stare. If you see such postures, interrupt the interaction immediately by calmly and positively getting each dog interested in something else. For example, both handlers can call their dogs to them, have them sit or lie down and reward each with a treat. The dogs will become interested in the treats which will prevent the situation from escalating into aggression. Try letting the dogs interact again, but this time for a shorter time period and/or at a greater distance from each other. Taking The Dogs Home: When the dogs seem to be tolerating each other's presence without fearful or aggressive responses, and the investigative greeting behaviors have tapered off, you can take them home. Whether you choose to take them in the same, or different vehicles, will depend on their size, how well they ride in the car, how trouble free the initial introduction has been and how many dogs are involved. If you have more than one resident dog in your household, it may be best to introduce the resident dogs to the new dog one at a time. Two or more resident dogs may have a tendency to "gang up" on the newcomer. It is a very good idea to not let your dogs and the new dog be together unsupervised for any length of time.Introducing Puppies to Adult Dogs Puppies usually pester adult dogs unmercifully. Before the age of four months, puppies may not recognize subtle body postures from adult dogs signaling that they’ve had enough. Well socialized adult dogs with good temperaments may set limits with puppies with a growl or snarl. These behaviors are normal and should be allowed. Adult dogs that aren’t well socialized, or that have a history of fighting with other dogs, may attempt to set limits with more aggressive behaviors, such as biting, which could harm the puppy. For this reason, a puppy shouldn’t be left alone with an adult dog until you’re confident the puppy isn’t in any danger. Be sure to give the adult dog some quiet time away from the puppy, and perhaps, some individual attention as described above. When to Get Help If the introduction of a new dog to a household doesn’t go smoothly, contact PapHaven’s behaviorist – Pat Schmidt - 513-831-0370, or a professional animal behaviorist immediately. Dogs can be severely injured in fights, and the longer the problem continues, the harder it can be to resolve. Conflicts between dogs in the same family can often be resolved with professional help. Punishment won’t work and could make things worse. HOW TO GRADE YOUR DOG FOODStart with the grade of 100 (A+)For every listing of by-product, subtract 10 pointsFor every non-specific animal source (meat or poultry, meal or fat) subtract 10 pointsIf the food contains BHA, BHT or ethoxyquin, subtract 10 pointsFor every grain mill run or non-specific grain source, subtract 5 pointsIf the same grain ingredient is used 2 or more times in the first five ingredients (i.e. ground brown rice, brewers rice, rice flour are all the same grain), subtract 5 pointsIf the protein source is not meat meals and there are less than 2 meats in the top 3 ingredients, subtract 3 pointsIf it contains artificial colorants, subtract 3 pointsIf it contains ground corn or whole grain corn, subtract 3 pointsIf corn is listed in the top 5 ingredients, subtract 2 more points.If the food contains any animal fat other than fish oil, subtract 2 pointsIf lamb is the only animal protein source (unless your dog is allergic to other protein sources), subtract 2 pointsIf it contains soy or soybeans, subtract 2 pointsIf it contains wheat (unless you know your dog is not allergic to wheat), subtract 2 pointsIf it contains beef (unless you know your dog isn't allergic to beef), subtract 1 pointIf it contains salt, subtract 1 pointEXTRA CREDIT1. IF ANY OF THE MEAT SOURCES ARE ORGANIC, ADD 5 POINTS2. IF THE FOOD IS ENDORSED BY ANY MAJOR BREED GROUP OR NUTRITIONIST, ADD 5 POINTS3. IF THE FOOD IS BAKED NOT EXTRUDED, ADD 5 POINTS4. IF THE FOOD CONTAINS PROBIOTICS, ADD 3 POINTS5. IF THE FOOD CONTANTS FRUIT, ADD 3 POINTS6. IF THE FOOD CONTAINS VEGETABLES (NOT CORN OR OTHER GRAINS), ADD 3 POINTS7. IF THE ANIMAL SOURCES ARE HORMONE-FREE, ADD 2 POINTS8. IF THE FOOD CONTAINS BARLEY, ADD 2 POINTS9. IF THE FOOD CONTAINS FLAX SEED OIL (NOT JUST THE SEEDS), ADD 2 POINTS10. IF THE FOOD CONTAINS OATS OR OATMEAL, ADD 1 POINT11. IF THE FOOD CONTAINS SUNFLOWER OIL, ADD 1 POINT12. FOR EVERY DIFFERENT SPECIFIC ANIMAL PROTEIN SOURCE (OTHER THAN THE FIRST ONE; COUNT CHICKEN AND CHICKEN MEAL AS ONLY ONE PROTEIN SOURCE, BUT CHICKEN AND DUCK AS 2 DIFFERENT SOURCES) ADD 1 POINT13. IF IT CONTAINS GLUCOSAMINE AND CHONDROITON, ADD 1 POINT14. IF THE VEGETABLES HAVE BEEN TESTED FOR PESTICIDES AND ARE PESTICIDE-FREE, ADD 1 POINTGRADES94-100= A86-93 = B78-85= C70-77=D69 = F Reference: on PappyCare Papillon Haven Rescue HYPOGLYCEMIA By Annette Davis (reprinted with permission) Hypoglycemia or low blood sugar is a possible problem with all toy breed puppies. Veterinarians unfamiliar with toys often misdiagnose the condition as viral hepatitis or encephalitis. As a toy breeder or pet owner, it is important to recognize the symptoms of hypoglycemia and know how to treat it. Hypoglycemia is easily treatable in the early stages, but fatal if allowed to progress. Many puppies are lost needlessly to hypoglycemia because of the ignorance on the part of their owner or veterinarian. The first sign of hypoglycemia is the puppy slowing down and then acting listless. The puppy will then begin to tremble or shiver. This is a reaction caused as the brain is starved for glucose. The trembling is followed by a blank stare and the puppy lying on his side. He may also experience convulsions. After a time, the puppy will become comatose. His body will be limp, lifeless, and the tongue and gums will be a grayish/blue color. The body temperature will be subnormal. The puppy may even appear to be dead. If caught in the early stages, treatment is simple. Rub NutriCal or Karo (white) syrup will do if you have no NutriCal) on the puppy’s gums, under the tongue, and on the roof of the mouth. (Caution – do not use honey.) Get a heating pad or heating blanket and slowly warm the puppy to proper body temperature. If the puppy responds, all is well. Feed a quality canned food right away (you may want to mix it with egg yolk) and then monitor the puppy to be sure that the condition does not recur. Be sure to eliminate the stress that caused the episode if at all possible. If caught in the more advanced stages, treatment is more complicated. Always assume that the puppy is alive. Rub NutriCal or White Karo in the mouth, and carefully insert a small amount in the rectum. Slowly warm the puppy to normal body temperature (101-102 degrees F) and keep him warm continuously with light heat. If the puppy still does not respond, carefully eye dropper dextrose solution or Karo water into the mouth, a little at a time. Call your veterinarian and inform him that you have a hypoglycemic puppy. He will prepare a warmed dextrose solution to inject subcutaneously and may put your puppy on an IV drip. Request a fecal exam. Your puppy may have intestinal parasites such as worms, coccidia, or giardia that need to be eliminated immediately. A bacterial or viral infection may also be present and antibiotic treatment necessary. If your puppy has been given glucose injections, it is probably a good idea to treat him with antibiotics so that infection does not occur. Your vet will likely recommend a prescription canned food such as a/d to give as your puppy recovers. You can finger feed the a/d “as is” from the can and add Pedialyte to the drinking water. You must also keep the puppy warm at all times. Of course use prudence, and do not overheat or dehydration will occur. In severe cases you may need to force feed a/d for a time and give Pedialyte with a dropper. Give B vitamins to stimulate appetite. As your puppy improves he will begin to eat on his own and then you can gradually phase back in his regular food. It is important to understand that just because a puppy has an episode of hypoglycemia, it does not mean that the puppy is truly “hypoglycemic.” True hypoglycemia is a chronic condition caused by overproduction of insulin by the pancreas. Even though the pancreas may normally function properly, toy puppies can still have an isolated hypoglycemic incident in reaction to stress. Hypoglycemic incidents are almost always preceded by a stress of some kind. Some examples of common stresses include: weaning; teething; vaccinations; a change in environment; shipping; over handling; cold temperatures; intestinal parasites; infections; anorexia; etc. Many puppies simply play too hard and stress their system or forget to eat. I have heard of young males experiencing hypoglycemia when a female in heat is around. They become so worked up over the female that they do not eat and their blood sugar drops. Tiny dogs often do not have the fat reserves to supply adequate glucose in times of stress or when they do not eat regularly. Hypoglycemia most often occurs when the puppy has not eaten for several hours. This is not always the case, however. A puppy can have eaten recently and still show signs of hypoglycemia if his system is stressed and the food has not been digested and assimilated. It is important to “free feed” toy puppies a high quality food. Toy puppies simply have too high of an energy level to be restricted to scheduled feedings. Most do fine if switched to scheduled feedings when they reach adulthood, but they must have access to food and water at all times when they are puppies. If you like to give your puppy canned food, you can schedule the feeding of the canned, but allow access to kibble at all times. 527050502031000A SUMMARY of IMPORTANT REMINDERS is as follows: Always keep NutriCal or Karo (white corn syrup) on hand. This is the quickest way to revive a hypoglycemic puppy.If you ever see your puppy becoming listless, or laying on his side and actingUnresponsive IMMEDIATELY rub NutriCal or Karo on his gums, under his tongue, and on the roof of the mouth. Slowly warm him to normal body temperature with a heating pad. Feed him as soon as he responds. Call your veterinarian if the puppy does not respond quickly. Keep your puppy from chilling, free of parasites, and minimize stress.See that your puppy eats often and maintains a proper body weight.Do not over handle your puppy. Be sure to allow him rest time and alone timelike all babies, puppies need to have a regular schedule of rest, meals, play, and potty. Papillon Haven Rescue CRATE TRAINING CRATE TRAINING: PHR recommends the use of crates with our foster Paps. Puppies are supposed to be able to "hold it" for an hour for each month they are old. This is a general guideline and not etched in stone! (i.e. a 4 month old should be able to hold it for 4 hours) What is crate training? Crate Training is the fastest and most humane method of housebreaking dogs. Have you ever seen a dog under a table, chair or bed? The reason is that dogs naturally want to seek shelter, even in a house. If you don't provide it, they will create it themselves in an effort to feel safe and secure. A crate serves as a den for your dog. Why should I crate train my dog? Like babies, puppies cannot control their bladders until they mature (usually between 3 and 6 months). Dogs have a natural instinct to avoid eliminating in their dens. Therefore, confining your puppy in his crate for the proper amount of time encourages him to "hold it" until you take him outside for a walk. What about housebreaking older dogs? (PHR uses the term “House Training”) It is never too late to crate train your dog! The number one reason dogs end up in shelters is behavior problems. Crate training, at any age, can help break bad habits and solve most of these problems. How long do I need to use the crate? Crates are not just for training, they are good for the lifetime of your dog. By providing a crate for your dog, you are in essence providing him with his own bedroom. Crates are especially important for older dogs that use it to escape the hustle and bustle of everyday family life, which often includes small children or other pets that may harass them. How safe is crate training? Crates are not just for training! Dog crates are the best housetraining tool available. They provide a room for your dog while protecting your home furnishings from damage. However, even a crate isn't an absolute safe harbor for your pet. As per crate manufacturers’ warnings, you should always remove standard collars before placing your dog in a crate for any length of time or if you are not at home. The only collar we recommend as being safe when inside a crate is Premier's "KeepSafe" breakaway collar. Otherwise, your dog is at risk for possible strangulation if his collar or ID tags become caught in the crate's bars. Crate bumpers are the only bumpers made high enough to help prevent collar strangulation and other crate related injuries. Papillon Haven Rescue Vetting GuidelinesWhen a new doggie comes into rescue, he/she is taken to a vet as soon as possible for an evaluation. One of the Team Leaders or Directors usually confers with this examining vet for an opinion of the health status. If there are ANY indications for needing further testing whether it is a blood panel or special testing we will either request it at that time or with the vet that the Foster Mom/Dad uses when the Pap arrives there. Each case is an individual assessment. (Remember, any expenditure of $250 or over requires approval) Our standard vetting request is: health evaluation (thorough check up); teeth; parasites; (brucellosis short test – ONLY if from a commercial breeder, puppy mill or back yard breeder); heart worm test; and bring up to date on basic vaccinations. This is followed with spay/neuter. Should the health evaluation indicate more test are needed, then approval must be obtained. SEE VETTING PROTOCOL a copy to be taken with the Pap to the first Vet appointment and placed in the Pap’s folder as this establishes to the clinic what we will pay for. When giving full coverage on vaccinations, delay the rabies until at least 10 or more days later, especially for the small Paps. The Papillon breed has demonstrated, in a great enough percentage, that the possibility of a negative reaction is very real. Spacing the rabies to a minimum of 10 days or later will reduce the possibility of a multi-dose reaction. We have had a case where one of our rescue doggies ran up a vet bill of over $1400 with specialist, duplicate and multiple testing, and possibly duplicate billing. This rescue did not have any critical health issues. Maybe the problems wouldn’t have been viewed as "routine" problems, but the vets considered them "routine." The bottom line is that while this sweetie definitely needed to receive medical attention, the excess funds spent for him/her meant we could not take into rescue 2 more doggies. So keep in mind, there is always the "other" side to consider. You will notice that in our Procedures and Guidelines, there is a cap on medical expenditures of $250. When we approach this amount you will need to confer with the Team Leaders. This does not mean we will not spend that amount, it just means we need to check our funds, etc. And if we are low, then we will appeal to our donors so we can get it covered. So far, we have paid all our bills on time. We are financially supported WHOLLY by donations which means that there are times when funds may be tight. We also have very generous members and supporters and have so far been able to overcome any short falls in funds. But, this also means that we have to be prudent in our expenditures. In an ideal world we could do all sorts of testing for a new rescue, but we are a rescue group and all of you already know there is nothing ideal about this work. Papillon Haven RescueVETTING PROTOCOL(take to vet clinic-leave in Pap’s file)There MUST be a statement within the vet clinic records that this Papillon or Pap mix is owned by Papillon Haven Rescue. No exception.Bath? (prior to any surgeries)Brucellosis Test (if from sub-standard kennels such as puppy mills or backyard breeders)0156845WAIT for Brucellosis test results before proceeding further. (Use an in-office Brucellosis test if possible - slide test)If the Brucellosis test is positive, then we do the long Brucellosis test sent off to a lab and get a confirmation on positive finding.? If after the 2nd test it is positive, then we will have to put them down. Must first be confirmed with DVM of our group.If the Brucellosis is negative?or the rescue is NOT from a sub-standard kennel or puppy mill proceed to number 3.00WAIT for Brucellosis test results before proceeding further. (Use an in-office Brucellosis test if possible - slide test)If the Brucellosis test is positive, then we do the long Brucellosis test sent off to a lab and get a confirmation on positive finding.? If after the 2nd test it is positive, then we will have to put them down. Must first be confirmed with DVM of our group.If the Brucellosis is negative?or the rescue is NOT from a sub-standard kennel or puppy mill proceed to number 3.Heart Worm Test (if positive dog must wait until it has been successfully treated before proceeding with spay/neuter/dental)Give Basic Vaccinations and Bordetella (parvo, distemper and rabies)(spread the vaccinations, putting as much time as available between the basic shots and the rabies shot to help prevent a reaction – recommend 10 days minimum) NOTE: we do not give lepto and corona. (Exception: Lepto in Southern states or outbreak where local ordinance will require it)Health Check Up (everything, heart, teeth, eyes, ears, legs, etc.) weight and height (please provide vet findings to Jan Jorolan …jorolan@catc,net)0280670If heartworm is positive the dog must wait until it has been successfully treated before continuing to number 8.00If heartworm is positive the dog must wait until it has been successfully treated before continuing to number 8.Parasite check (fecal)Treat infectionsSchedule Spay/Neuter/Dental Interceptor/Iverhart Max: near end of boarding time IF BOARDED, please give each pap a single dose of Interceptor, Iverheart Max or Heart Guard. (we do not use Revolution or similar brands)Puppies: If puppies are approximately 5 to 7 months old, and the attending veterinarian agrees, we will start on HW preventative without testing. No Brucellosis test for puppies unless they show signs.QUESTIONS: Contact Jan Jorolan 501-865-4442 jorolan2@ NOTE: PapHaven must keep all adoptable Paps vaccinated annually (except rabies) in order to adopt and transport to a new adoptive owner.Papillon Haven Rescue STEP by STEP Hopefully this information will help guide you when you get your foster fur baby from PapHaven whether it is the first time or after many times. Upon receiving your foster Pap, please keep them separate from your own fur babies. This is important especially until your new foster has been given a clean bill of health from your veterinarian. It will also make the transition easier for your new foster by serving to maintain order, reduce conflict and promote cooperation among pack members. The stress level will be lower for a foster and your own fur babies if they are given a chance to meet your pack one at a time. As soon as received please put a collar with a PHR tag on your new foster. This is the most dangerous time for them. They are frightened, skittish and could bolt. Having identification could be the difference in life and death at this time. If you need a PHR tag these can be obtained from your Foster Team Leader, Debra Goetz, or Jan Jorolan.Prepare and submit an Base Profile Foster Report form (the form is contained in this Foster Handbook). The initial Foster Report and biweekly Foster Reports are the key piece of information for matching a rescued pap with an adoption candidate. Please be specific. This is an excellent opportunity to speak on behalf of your foster. If your foster Pap is an owner surrender, from a shelter or other rescue group then arrange for a vet clinic appointment immediately. A health checkup should be done as soon as possible as part of the vetting protocol included in this foster handbook. This is very important to protect yourself and your other dogs from any potential problems. It also is crucial for us to plan for vet expenses that may be needed. Of course any treatment needed and/or other testing should follow our Vetting Protocol guidelines. Please review our Vetting Protocol. (NOTE: If your foster Pap is from a commercial, substandard breeder, puppymill or backyard breeder, we normally have already had the vetting completed prior to reaching you. But the first two items in this list still apply.) Here are the goals (in order) that we hope to achieve during fostering. These are the things you will be working on together with your Foster Team Leader. These are the minimum standards for PHR in order to help a rescued pap be ready for adoption and improve chances of a successful adoption. o Restore Health o Socialize o House Train o Crate Train o Leash Train o Weight Management Communicate with our Foster Team Leader and/or appropriate Team Leader. Staying in touch is very important. Since email is our primary communications too, please read your email regularly. Be familiar with the PHR fostering resources available to you. Papillon Haven Rescue IF YOU PLAN TO?FOSTER OR APOPT A MILL DOG IT IS VERY IMPORTANT TO READ THIS Important Tips for Your Puppymill Rescues Papillons that are rescued from puppy mills often have unique requirements as far as placement and also as far as adjustment. We place puppy mill rescues into new homes after varying levels of socialization/rehabilitation based on the dog and the adoptive family. Even if your dog has been in foster care for some time, the following tips might help explain some of your new rescue’s behavior. LEASH TRAINING Puppymill rescues have never been on leashes before. In the mill there was no need for them, so their first experience with a leash was most likely during transport and foster care and trips to the vet. It is wise to use a harness and leash with all mill rescues vs. a collar. Many are neck sensitive due to mishandling at the mill. They also can slip out of a collar much easier than with a harness. Start slow with leash desensitization all walks need to be stress free in your own backyard at first, then a quiet street, etc. Always be sure there are no noisy children or bicycles, etc. Use a soft voice, praise and treats every time you walk your pap. FEAR OF BEING HELD OR LIFTED Puppymill rescues were routinely mishandled and/or abused in their prior life. That leaves them with a strong fear of being lifted, approached from behind, grabbed, and touched over the head. Start slow with your mill rescue. Leave them on a long leash at first so you do not need to corner or chase them. Do not ever grab them from behind. Always let them see your outstretched hand and approach them from the front. Do not use sudden movements or a fast approach slow and steady is the key to success. Quiet, easy petting while talking to them in a soothing voice is the right approach. TREATS/PRAISE Always have a steady stream of tempting treats on hand. Use canned cheese, liver treats and other highly detectable treats (stinky) to try and tempt them. Sit quietly on the floor with the dog and sprinkle treats around your feet/legs. Always give them a tidbit for every positive behavior. Ignore the negative. DIET Puppy mill rescues need an extremely high quality, easy to digest diet. We recommend quality kibble diet that with easy digestibility. Supplement diet with fresh fruits/vegetables and meat. Mill rescues benefit from Vitamin C and Eicosaderm supplement in their food. That helps with coat growth and dry skin. …... BATHING Mill Rescues require gentle grooming with a shampoo/rinse designed for dogs with sensitive or dry skin. Natural shampoo products along with an oatmeal crème rinse work best. You’ll notice the yellowing of the coat diminishing after each bath. Soft bristled brushes are recommended. Gentle slow brushing is best. HOUSETRAINING In a puppy mill, dogs live in wire cages out in the elements. They never learn to "hold it" and urinate/defecate whenever they feel the urge. Crate training will help your new mill rescue to learn to hold it. Do not expect them to hold it longer than four hours. Keep the dog and the crate spotless at all times. If they have a setback, do not get discouraged this part of rehabilitation takes some time. Treat the new rescue as if it were a puppy. Leash them to your body and watch them all of the time if you cannot watch them, crate them. Never punish the dog for an accident. They do not understand. Ignore the accidents and praise them when they potty outside. Never ever rub their nose in it or hit them (even lightly) with a newspaper. Be consistent and diligent, but do not stress over the housetraining – it will come in time. Trust us on this one. TOYS Dogs rescued from puppy mills have never seen or played with toys. Do not expect your Pap to learn to play ball, etc. right away. Start out with nonthreatening soft, lightweight toys. Just leave them lying around the house and eventually they will pick them up. OTHER PETS Mill rescues benefit greatly from a healthy, well-adjusted dog in the home. That is why we usually only place them in homes with other pets. They need to watch and learn from another dog. Your dog will guide the new rescue and teach them that life is ok and that humans are good. They normally form an amazing bond and become fast friends. FEARS Puppy mill dogs are raised without love, human contact or interaction. Many things will be foreign to a mill rescue that would not be to a dog raised in a home. Things such as fear of steps, furniture, different surfaces, grass, etc. are to be worked thru slowly and carefully. Desensitizing your Pap to these different situations are all basically the same go slow and use a lot of treats, praise and love. Placing treats on the steps for example, will entice your Pap to use them. Slowly place your Pap up on the couch next to you for petting and don't be upset if they won't stay up there with you for longer than a minute at first. Time is the key here. Introduce them to things such as a vacuum cleaner, broom, fly swatter, etc. by letting them see that it is nothing to fear. Give them praise/treats when they are near the object. Some things take longer than others but it will come in time. EATING POOP Cophragia is a habit that is common with mill rescues and although disgusting, it is not something to get all upset about. A high quality diet as mentioned above, supplemented with fresh pineapple, spinach or a digestive enzyme will stop this behavior. Our best advice is to keep your yard picked up and pick up after your pet (you are already out there with your Pap since you need to praise him/her anyway.) If there is no poop, there is nothing to eat but the tasty treats you are offering. SOCIALIZATION After your pet trusts YOU completely (and not before), start taking them on trips to friends or to PetSmart/PetCo. Do not attempt this for 3 months minimum depending on the dog. Your new dog needs time to learn to love you and your family. You have a whole lifetime to show off your new Pap. Please do not rush this. By: Lisa Bakalars Used with permission from Lisa Bakalars. CUR #550, HWT Member See Betsy's Story at betsy.html Papillon Haven Rescue Foster Forms (Also found on the Admin Site: Look FORMS & DOCUMENTS – Fosters)Following this page will be many of the forms that you will be using during your time as a Foster Home for our precious Papillons. The Foster Guidelines Handbook is a work in progress and any suggestions, information or input would be appreciated. We all “learn as we go” when we do fostering so your experiences will be helpful to others. Please let us know what you would like to see added to this manual that will help the experienced as well as the new foster parents care for their charges. There will be additional “inserts” or an “add on” of different subject matters, but important for our continuing education. Please add these to your 3 ring notebook Foster Handbook. Remember that the Admin website lists everyone and their contact information. Please contact Jan Jorolan, your Foster Team Leader, Debra Goetz or Regional Leaders if you have questions, need help or just need someone to give you an ear for venting. Thank you again! Papillon Haven Rescue2014Reimbursement FormDOG'S NAME: ____________________________________Date:________________AMOUNT TO BE REIMBURSED: ____________________________________________NANE OF PERSON REQUESTING REIMBURSEMENT:____________________________________________________________________________________________________ADDRESS: _________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________PHONE NUMBER: ________________________________________________________EMAIL ADDRESS: _______________________________________________________REIMBURSEMENT CHECK SHOULD BE MAILED TO: (if different than above)NAME: _______________________________________________________________ADDRESS: ______________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________PLEASE PRINT AND MAIL A COPY OF THIS COMPLETED FORM together WITH THE ORIGINAL BILL/BILLS Paid receipt + vet records TO: Papillon Haven Rescue c/o Donna Moore 1440 Mt. Vista Drive Knoxville, TN 37920 If you have questions direct them to: Donna Moore hezekiahmoore@ 865-573-1309 Or jorolan@ 501-865-4442 501-815-2766 cPapillon Haven RescuePAPHAVEN FOSTER BASE PROFILE(To be completed after the first week in your home and updated as conditions or behavior change – send to email below)Foster Dog’s Name: __________________________Date: ____________Foster Parents Name: ________________________State:____________1. Is dog on PHR web page: YES/NO2. Is dog ready for PHR web page? If not, why: 3. Health Issues: ___________________________________________________________________4. Current Height: __________________________ Current Weight:___________5. Meds being given: ________________________________________________________________ Vaccinations – date given: _________________________________________________________ Due Date:______________________________ HW preventative (brand): _________________ Date last given: _____________________(Provided by PapHaven – contact Foster Team Leader)6. Behavior: Biter: YES/NO Barker: YES/NO Aggressive: YES/NO Good with small children: YES/NO Older children: YES/NOGood with other dogs: YES/NO Cats: YES/NO Other pets: YES/NO (if yes, type): Needs fenced yard: YES/NO Needs stay-at-home adopter: YES/NOCrate Trained: YES/NO House Trained: YES/NOCoprophagic (ingests feces): YES/NO Resource Guarder: YES/NODominant (alpha): YES/NO Playful with Toys: YES/NO Playful with other Dogs: YES/NO People: YES/NO 7. Issues that must be addressed to be ready for adoption (please list): ________________________________________________________8. Estimate, if you are able, of when dog might be ready for adoption: ____________________________________________________________________________9. Three to five adjectives that best describe your foster dog’s personality: ____________________________________________________________________________10. Do you need a PHR dog tag? Yes/NoNote: The information received from this detailed foster update form will be utilized by various PapHaven committees to ensure we have the most current/detailed profile of each dog in order to quickly determine the most suitable forever home for each Pap.PLEASE COPY and PASTE this FORM into a new email body THEN fill it in and return to adopterspaps@ Include your name and state in the Subject Line.11/011/jjPAPHAVEN FOSTER BI-WEEKLY UPDATE(to be completed bi-weekly on Sunday and submitted to adopterspaps@ and your regional team leader)Foster Dog’s Name: ____________________Date: ______________________Foster Parents Name: ______________________ State: ________________1. Is dog on web page: YES/NO2. What are the issues keeping the dog from being listed on the web page: ____________________________________________________________________________3. Any new behavioral issues: YES/NO (if yes, describe) ____________________________________________________________________________4. Any new health issues or change in medication: YES/NO (if yes, describe) ____________________________________________________________________________5. Meds being given: _______________________________________________________________HW preventative (brand): ____________________ Date last given: ______________6. When would you anticipate the dog will be ready for adoption: _____________________________7. Please comment briefly on how training is progressing in the three areas below:House Trained: ______________________________________Crate Trained: ______________________________________Leash Trained: _____________________________________9. Other comments______________________________________________________________10. Do you need a PHR dog tag (s)? Y/NNOTE: If information pertaining to the type of home needed based on the dog’s behavior has changed since the original base profile was submitted, please submit an updated base profile. The information received from this detailed foster update form will be utilized by various PapHaven committees to ensure we have the most current/detailed profile of each dog in order to quickly determine the most suitable forever home for each dog.PLEASE COPY and PASTE this FORM into a new email body THEN fill it in and return to adopterspaps@ and your regional team leader. Include your name and state in the Subject Line11/011 rf-jjPAPILLON HAVEN RESCUE IN CASE OF AN ACCIDENT In the event that I, _________________________________ am incapacitated and unable to make my wishes known regarding my dog(s), please honor the following requests: ________________________________________________is to be contacted as soon as possible at the following phone number: _____________________. Call collect and mention my name. If the above phone number cannot be reached, contact ________________________ at the following phone number ____________________. All expenses for the dog(s) will be paid by them. If the dog(s) are not injured, they are to be cared for by the nearest reputable boarding kennel, and be kept there in the best possible manner, until such time as arrangements can be made for their transport home. If the dog(s) are injured, they are to be cared for by the nearest reputable veterinarian, I prefer that my own veterinarian, _____________________________ at __________________________ , be contacted regarding decisions about the dog'(s) care and treatment. If any dog is injured beyond all hope of recovery, that dog is to be humanely euthanized. Photos and descriptions of my dog(s) are attached along with their health records. These dogs are tattooed on the _______________ or micro chipped with this/these identification numbers:_______________________________________ . The welfare of my dog(s) is my primary concern. Name: _________________________________________________________________ Address:________________________________________________________________ City, State, Zip: __________________________________________________________ Phone: _________________________________________________________________ Signed: _______________________________ Date: __________________________ OTHER EMERGENCY CONTACTS: NAME, ADDRESS, PHONE:__________________________________________________ Papillon Haven RescueTRANSFER AGREEMENT Dog’s Name: ____________________________________________________________ Sex: ______ Age: _____ Color/Markings: ________________________________ Tattoo/Microchip number: ________________________ I hereby release and transfer guardianship of the aforementioned dog to: (Print the Name of the Next Guardian) I hereby release and transfer all papers, all vaccinations and veterinary records for the aforementioned dog, which has been obtained during the Rescue Process and/or Rehabilitation. It is acknowledged the rightful ownership of the aforementioned dog is with Papillon Haven Rescue. There shall be no release or transfer to persons as guardians other than those determined by Papillon Haven Rescue. I hereby release Papillon Haven Rescue, Representatives and Volunteers from all past, current and future expenses or liability, incurred during my guardianship of the aforementioned dog, except as agreed. Signed: _______________________________________ Date: _________________ (Person Transferring to New Guardian) Signed: _______________________________________ Date: _________________ (Person Accepting as New Guardian Receiving Dog) The Transfer form is used when your foster is being sent to his or her forever home or to a different foster home. You will use this form if you are not the person delivering the doggie to its new home. A copy of this form is needed for each person that will help in the transport of your foster to its next destination. Papillon Haven Rescue 5791205168900-2 years = $425 3-4 years = $3755-7 years = $350 8-9 years = $300 10 - ? years $200 Special = older/blind/etc. to be determinedPap mix $200-$250 Based on age, health and mix000-2 years = $425 3-4 years = $3755-7 years = $350 8-9 years = $300 10 - ? years $200 Special = older/blind/etc. to be determinedPap mix $200-$250 Based on age, health and mixADOPTION FEES Fees are reviewed by Directors AnnuallyThe adoption fee covers The charge to “pull” the dog from a shelter (most shelters charge approx. $95-150) Vet expenses including Full health checkup Spay/neuter (all rescue Paps will be spayed and/or neutered PRIOR to adoption) Vaccines including rabies Heartworm test and treatment if needed Heartworm preventative Any other vet expenses such as a dental or hernia repair Brucellosis test when needed NOTE: The ADOPTION FEE is to help defray expenses for ALL Papillons or Papillion mixes in our rescue program. Papillon Haven Rescue Holiday Adoptions As most of you know, there is always a demand for doggies (and other animals) for Christmas and Holiday presents. And as many of you know, this is a VERY traumatic time for bringing in a new pet to a home full of decorations, parties, family gatherings, noise, yummy foods, and all the other things that go along with the holiday season. It has been the policy and practice of our PHR group from the beginning to stop delivery of adoptions on or about the 15th of December. This is in the best interest of the rescued Pap as they need lots of adjustment time in the new surroundings and attention. We will neither stop taking adoption applications nor stop making adoptions. But adoptions approved during this time will be delivered AFTER the holidays. Just for your information: it is estimated that well over 50 percent of animals given as gifts for Christmas or other Holidays do not find a forever home and/or have a negative traumatic event. Papillon Haven Rescue General Fostering Policy Summary (As stated in various PHR documents and forms) Vetting needs MUST have an estimate prior to event. Any amounts at or above $250 require preapproval.Within the Vet Clinic record it must be stated this Pap is owned by PHR. It may not be shown as owned by the foster mom/dad. Jan Jorolan needs to be listed as the Contact Person for Payments. 501-814-2766 cPHR Vetting Protocol must be followed and a copy given to the Vet Clinic.PHR will only pay for items listed on the Vetting Protocol without prior agreement.Reimbursement request MUST be received within 30 days of transaction. Send vet records and notes to Jan Jorolan immediately. Do not delay please. Reimbursement request go to Donna Moore.Minimum fostering period of three weeks with required update reports and conferencing with Foster Team Leader and Adoption Team Leader. (Possible exceptions on case by case basis) Feeding Requirements are a quality kibble except in approved and/or RX situations.ALL PHR paps will be maintained on provided Heart Worm preventative YEAR ROUND.PHR Foster Handbook is required reading for all foster moms/dads and should be printed out for reference. The Verification of “I Have Read the Foster Handbook” should be signed and mailed or scanned and sent to the Foster Team Leader. Debra Goetz . The current handbook can always be downloaded from the PapHaven Admin site for reference.No PHR Rescue Pap may be given to or left with a potential adopter or interested party until the Adoption Process is completed and approved by Adoption Team.Registration and original paper work must be sent to Jan Jorolan immediately. Registration papers are confidential and do not follow the pap to adopters.Admin Site () is a ready reference for anything having to do with PapHaven or any documents required. All foster moms/dads need to be proficient in access and use of the PapHaven Administrative (Admin) site. Instructions and/or coaching available upon request.Christmas Holiday Adoptions will not take place after the second week in December however application processing will continue. Placement will begin after the first of the year.Transporting any of our paps requires a harness with leash plus collar with tags. Paps MUST travel in a hard sided crate at all times. The harness should be of the standard style, not figure 8 or step-in style. PHR tags are provided to all foster homes. You may obtain through the Foster Team Leader. Or Jan Jorolan.PapHaven does not air ship our rescue Papillons. See example of approved Standard style and not approved Figure 8 style Harnesses:Good not good Required Documents for each foster mom/dad. (Forms are available from the ADMIN Site web) Foster Application Home Visit performed/report General Representative Application (membership requirement) Verification of Reading Foster Handbook Bite Waiver Hold Harmless AgreementAnimal CPRSave a Life:Learn Animal CPRFor the EMS Provider and Pet Owner Lori H. Feldman, DVMHenry J. Feldman, MA EMT-M(c) 1996Dr. Feldman is a Massachusetts and New York Licensed Veterinarian and a member of the Veterinary Emergency and Critical Care Society. This document is primarliy aimed at EMS and Emergency Medical personel who may encounter animals in arrest.Pet owners should consult their veterinarian for specific details on procedures outlined here.web: : henryhbk@A. AirwayThe first step in animal CPR, after determining non-responsiveness, is to obtain a patent airway. You should not continue on, until this step has been achieved.Carefully pull the tongue out of the animal's mouthWARNING: even an unresponsive dog may bite by instinct!! Make sure that the neck is reasonably straight; try to bring the head in-line with the neck.WARNING: Do not hyperextend in cases where neck trauma exists Attempt 2 rescue breaths, by closing the mouth, and performing mouth-to-nose ventilations. If they go in with no problems continue to B-Breathing. Reposition the neck and try step 3 again. Visibly inspect the airway by looking into the mouth, and down the throat for foreign objects occluding the airway. Unlike human-CPR, rescuers may reach into the airway and remove foreign objects that are visible Proceed to the Heimlich maneuver A. HeimlichAfter attempting to ventilate:Turn the animal upside down, with its back against your chest With both arms, give 5 sharp thrusts (bear hugs) to the abdomen. Perform each thrust as if it is the one that will expel the object Stop, check to see if the object is visible in the airway, if so, remove it and give 2 mouth-nose rescue breaths. If the breaths do not go in, go back to step 1 Use gravity to help you expel the object Do not proceed with CPR, even if the animal goes into cardiac arrest. You must clear the airway first.B. BreathingAfter achieving a patent airway, one must determine whether the animal is breathing, and whether this breathing is effective: Carefully pull the tongue out of the animal?s mouthWARNING: even an unresponsive dog may bite by instinct!! Make sure that the neck is reasonably straight; try to bring the head in-line with the neck.WARNING: Do not hyperextend in cases where neck trauma exists Ventilate the animal by closing the mouth, and performing mouth-to-nose ventilations. If they do not go in with ease go to A-Airway Ventilate at 20 breaths per minute If supplemental Oxygen is available, and the animal is breathing on its own, use a high-flow blowby.WARNING: Do not attempt to intubate the animal, without prior training, and properly sized ET tubes. Proceed to C-Circulation, while continuing respiratory support as necessary C. CirculationThis is the final step of CPR and should only be initiated after the airway and breathing steps have been completed:Make sure that there are no major (pooling/spurting blood) points of bleeding. Control as necessary Lay the animal on its right side Locate your hands where its left elbow touches the chest. Approximately the middle of the rib-cage Compress the chest 15 times followed by 2 rescue breaths (3 compressions every 2 seconds)Compress 1/2" - small dogs 1" - medium dogs < 1.5" - large dogs Repeat as necessary Important:Animals do not have palpable carotid pulses. You can only obtain a femoral pulse in the inguinal crease. (Palpate carefully on a conscious dog!)E. ExtraDuring an emergency it is very important that you remain calm. Animals can sense your unease, but cannot understand what is happening and you cannot verbally tell them. Your body language is very important. Be calm, yet deliberate in your actions.When you determine that you either have corrected the life-threatening problem, or are unable to stabilize the animal, you should transport to the nearest emergency veterinary hospital.Notify your emergency clinic that you are coming in with a dog in respiratory arrest with a foreign body airway obstruction and/or cardiac arrest.Give them the following information via phone if possible:Your name Your ETA Steps taken (CPR, O2...) Breed/size If a foreign body, what the suspected object is If a poison or medication has been ingested Mechanism of injury (hit by car...) Write the phone number of the 24 hour animal hospital nearest you here:Insert # 4DENTAL DISEASEYour pet has been diagnosed with dental disease. Dental disease is the most common disease problem affecting dogs and cats. Unfortunately, it is also the most under addressed issue in veterinary medicine. This is in part due to lack of dental education available in veterinary colleges. We are pleased to have Dr. Chris M. Carter, who has a special interest in veterinary dentistry and is constantly pursuing advanced training in this field. This will allow us to offer you higher levels of care for your beloved companions. Signs of dental disease include but are not limited to:Gingivitis Tartar accumulationBad breathExcessive droolingReluctance to play with favorite toyRepeated sneezingBehavior change (lethargy, biting, restlessness)Chews on one side of mouthIf dental disease is left untreated, it can lead to more serious problems such as heart disease, lung disease, and liver and kidney failure, which can shorten your pet’s life. In order to fully evaluate the extent of disease present, we recommend a complete dental cleaning, polishing and fluoride treatment. Next, we perform a dental exam, where each tooth is evaluated for the presence of abnormalities that need to be addressed. This procedure requires general anesthesia which does have a small risk factor involved. However, the risk of dental disease is much higher than the risk of anesthesia. Also, anesthetic agents are safer than ever and advances in technology allow us to screen for many conditions that could cause complications. During the procedure, we can take additional steps to ensure a rapid, safe recovery from anesthesia. These include intravenous fluid administration, electronic vital signs monitoring, and normal body temperature maintenance.Eighty percent of all dental disease occurs below the gum line. This is called periodontal disease. Periodontal disease is characterized by bone loss around the tooth as well as severe infection and loose painful teeth. There may even be bleeding of the gums, bad breath and abscess formation. This disease can only be confirmed with oral x-rays. Most animals will benefit greatly from full mouth x-rays at the time of the dental cleaning and exam. After the cleaning, exam, and x-rays, we will call you and discuss any options for further treatment.For more information visit the American Veterinary Dental Society website at AVDS-. Choose the RESOURCES heading then choose DENTISTRY ARCHIVES then choose the different topics. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------Avoid feeding pets table scraps because they can increase the build up of plaque and tartar, and can lead to other health problems.There are several ways you can care for your pet’s teeth every day.A complete home dental care program for your pet often will include brushing as well as a special pet food that helps care for your pet’s teeth while he or she eats.Even if you aren’t able to brush your pet’s teeth every day, by incorporating a special pet food into your pet’s daily routine, you can provide the dental care needed to keep your pet healthy. Be sure to talk with your veterinarian about the options that exist and which are right for you and your pet.?BRUSHING YOUR PET’S TEETHStep 1:Introduce a brushing program to pets gradually. Avoid over-restraining your pet and keep the brushing sessions short and positive. A cat or small dog can be held in your lap. Praise and reassure your pet throughout the process.Step 2: At first, dip a finger into a beef or chicken bouillon; or tuna water for cats. Rub the soaked finger gently over the pet’s mouth and teeth. Make the initial sessions short and positive.Step 3: Gradually introduce gauze over your finger and gently scrub the teeth in a circular motion.Step 4: Finally, you can introduce a soft toothbrush designed for pets. Use a sensitive or ultra-soft brush designed for pets.When and How to Brush Your Dog's Teeth Bello bad Dental health is just as important for dogs as it is for humans. Healthy dog teeth are an important part of having a healthy dog. Bacteria in the mouth can spread to other parts of the body and cause serious infections, just like they can in humans. That’s why, ideally, you should be brushing your dog’s teeth once a day, just like you would your own. Make certain you are using a toothpaste or cleaning product that is designed for dogs. Human toothpastes have chemicals in them that can be toxic to a dog if swallowed. Since there’s no good way to keep your dog from swallowing the things you put in his mouth (Have you ever seen a dog spit? Me neither.)You should only use special toothpaste for dogs that you find in the pet supply aisle. Take your time. Before you even start using a toothbrush, allow your dog to get used to having your hands near his mouth. While the two of you are nice and relaxed, use your fingers to stroke his cheek like you would when you start brushing his teeth. You should also let him taste the special toothpaste for dogs, which he will discover is a tasty treat. Introduce the tooth brush. The first few times you introduce the tooth brush, you’ll probably only end up brushing a few dog teeth at a time. Eventually, you can slowly work up to brushing all of your dog’s teeth, especially the ones at the back. Don’t worry about the insides. If you only brush dog teeth on the outside, you’ll still get most of the plaque. Stop while it’s still fun. Whatever you do, you don’t want to make your dog afraid of the tooth brush. If you always stop brushing your dog’s teeth while he’s still enjoying it, and praise him and snuggle him for the time he’s spent with you, then tooth-brushing time will be a fun time for both of you to look forward to. That way you’ll be able to happily brush dog teeth without a struggle. One of the biggest advantages of brushing your dog’s teeth regularly, and starting from an early age, is that if you can keep your dog’s teeth clean and healthy then you may be able to avoid having to take your dog for a professional dog teeth cleaning. Since a professional dog teeth cleaning involves placing your dog under anesthesia, it’s something most pet parents would probably prefer to avoid. Quick Tip: When confronted by dog bad breath, don’t just pick up a tooth brush—talk to your vet. Although bad oral hygiene is most often the cause of a dog’s bad breath, it could reflect other health problems. Insert #5------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------PAPILLON HAVEN MICROCHIPPING INSTRUCTIONS If your foster does not have a chip, Lyndell Penney lyndelll@ will send you a PapHaven Home Again chip. Email her with your address and the dog’s name. [If your foster already has a chip, ownership needs to be transferred to PHR using the contact information below. Call the chip company, give them the chip number and they will contact the chip owner for permission to transfer the number to us.] To register a PHR chip, either call 1-866-802-5650 or go to chipfurkeeps/home.jsp. Our petfinder ID number will be required: OH678. The initial contact on the form is Papillon Haven Rescue c/o Jan Jorolan. (AR 501-815-2766). The secondary contact is Andy Watson (TX 979-968-6350). The email for both is adopterspaps@. The snail mail for both is Papillon Haven Rescue, POB 20306, Hot Springs, AR 71903. Please call with any questions. Thanks for your cooperation. This is a real money saver for PHR. insert #6HEART WORM INFLITRATION IS IN EVERY STATE IN THE USA?PapHaven provides heart worm preventatives for all PHR foster Pappies. We require it be given year round.We also provide flea/tick preventatives and it is required given year round.Contact our PHR Meds Manager: Antoinette (Toni) Johnson ChiantiXtra@Posted on PappyCare siteExample of HOW TO MARK the top of a hard-sided crate.Use water proof felt marker.Contact Crate Monitor for the needed Crate number.RESOURCE GUARDINGBy Pat SchmidtPapillons, like many small dogs, are especially prone to resource guarding. There are a number of factors that contribute to this but the main problem is they are so darn cute and so small that we don’t see them as a threat and a five or six pound dog guarding a person, place or thing strikes us as funny. But let’s not get ahead of ourselves, what is resource guarding anyway and why is it such a problem with our foster dogs? The Whole Dog Journal has a terrific article on resource guarding that you can find at this site, . I suggest you go to the site and read the entire article but just the beginning will give you an insight into what is going through your dog’s mind when he guards things like your home, car, bedroom, his food, crate, toys or space just to mention a few. The article deals with dog to dog guarding and modifying techniques but will give you some understanding of what is going through your dogs mind when he becomes involved in dog to people guarding especially when it escalates into aggression or biting.I especially like these articles and hope you will read both of them. While I don’t agree with all either has said most is beneficial and nothing in either article is going to mess up your dog. The addresses are and . Both deal with resource guarding involving people. Here lately it seems I am getting several calls a week from foster parents or adoptive parents about their paps biting and it can usually be attributed to resource guarding. Usually the dog is giving signals prior to the ugly aggression that you are missing until it becomes a serious problem.Let me give you a list of “dos and don’ts” that will help you deal with resource guarding more quickly and effectively. DO remain calm. A firm NO is much more effective than screaming at a dog. If you holler you are out of control and the dog knows it. If you aren’t in control the dog will feel a need to take control from you and that will only make a bad situation worse. A good example of how this works can be seen at a training school or dog park. If one dog is behaving erratically the other dogs will attempt to correct the out of control dog. We don’t need your dog correcting you!DO set boundaries. For example, a dog that is guarding you from friends and family cannot sit on your lap or be on the furniture until his behavior changes. Once a change is made the dog can lose privileges again if the bad behavior returns. You should expect bad behavior to resurface in the resource guarder from time to time and your response should be quick and appropriate to the behavior.DO become aware of warning signals, especially staring and freezing that signal approaching trouble. Correct warning signals with a firm “No” and divert the dog.DO correct growling or other aggression with a short time out in a gated place. Time outs should not be in the dog’s crate, his crate is a good and a safe place. It should also be done in a small space. I do time outs in my guest bathroom with a puppy gate not a closed door. I want the door opened so the dog knows what he is missing. Once the time out is over (about five minutes) I love on the dog and tell him he is a good boy. Time outs are only effective when they are done immediately when an infraction occurs. If even a few minutes pass the dog won’t know why you are putting him in a time out. You may have to put the dog in time out fifty times the first day but every day the time outs should lessen.DO be patient. As with any training or retraining you do with your dog, patience is a must and must be coupled with praise and other positive reinforcement. DO remove any toys, chewies, or other objects that are causing conflict. If a dog is food aggressive (guarding food) all feeding should be done in the crate. There should not be any food left out after feeding time. Treats that can’t be eaten in a single bite should only be given in the crate. If the dog is food aggressive toward people all food should come from your hands for at least a couple weeks. Then try feeding in a bowl with your hand in the bowl. If there is any aggression go back to hand feeding. DO work on obedience training, walking nicely at your side, sitting when you stop, sit/stays, down/stays, coming when called. Obedience training, in addition to making the dog a pleasure to be around, instills confidence and compliance. Most dogs that resource guard lack confidence.DO keep a guarding dog leashed so that you can quickly reel him in and correct.DO keep treats by the door so that people coming into your house can reward a fearful dog for coming to them.DON’T allow the dog on your bed. The bed is not a safe place for your Papillon and Papillon Haven has a policy against having a foster dog in your bed. Having a dog in your bed gives the dog ownership of the bed and indirectly of you. A dog that is resource guarding should spend most of his time on the floor. Go down to his level to give him attention.DON’T ignore any bad behavior, correct immediately. Bad behavior ignored will escalate.DON’T ignore stares and stiffening, a stiff, raised tail, huffing, these are all signs of aggression.I have used the word “correct” a number of times and I want to give you a brief description of what a correction is and isn’t. A correction is NOT a physical form of punishment. Many of our dogs have suffered physical abuse, a physical correction, including a smack with your hand, a newspaper or other object is not appropriate. An appropriate correction can be verbal, a single “NO” for example. It can also be a time out or if the dog growls while sitting next to you on the sofa a swift push to the floor in conjunction with a verbal “NO Growl” is a good correction.I know you are inclined to feel sorry for some of our dogs, especially those that have been mistreated. Do not allow your sympathy to rule how you work at training your foster dog. You may have to go slower with a fearful dog but you cannot allow resource guarding in any dog because mild guarding can quickly escalate into biting.If you have a resource guarder that is being adopted, even though he may not have shown any signs of guarding in the past several months, let the adopting person know that he has had an issue with guarding in the past and how to handle that. He may revert back to what he had done in the past when put into a new or uncomfortable situation. Papillons, because of their intelligence, are also very good at testing everyone they meet to see just how much they can get away with; they will surely test the adopter.Finally, your personal dog may well help you deal with resource guarding. I wish we could put a very calm, confident dog in every foster home to help with the training. Smokey needs only to roll over and look at a misbehaving dog for the bad behavior to stop. Don’t discount the assistance you can get from your well adjusted personal dogs when dealing with your fosters.Nov. 2014 ................
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