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In any discussion of Calabria, it is impossible to get past the elephant in the room. It is large and often leaves little room for anything else. Yet, it must be ignored if life is to be lived and enjoyed in this beautiful and mysterious place. Over the years, I have come to refer to Calabria as a beautiful woman who keeps her suitors at an arm’s length because of her capriciousness. Perhaps a better metaphor would be that visitors are kept away because of her two mean brothers who instill fear into the hearts of those who would call on her. Her brothers are members of two gangs. One is an extortionist, and the other is a member of a drug cartel. Neither desire company. As a result, the beautiful Calabria has few visitors and alas, no suitors. Sadly, the brothers are omnipresent in Calabria’s life and are written about in newspapers with stories describing their misdeeds.Additionally, as a result of her brothers preying on the good people who live here, many of her youth, as they come of age, simply choose to leave. Those who do, find a life free of the brothers emancipating and flourish in northern cities and foreign lands far away from the strife that the brothers inflict on this beautiful land. A result of the exodus, and the costs of controlling the brothers' behaviors keeps meaningful investment away and Calabria poor. Most striking to the visitor are the hulks of unfinished building projects that dot the countryside. Homes of red tile block set inside a concrete framework, reminiscent of Rio’s favelas or empty concrete frames of what might have been a large home, with only a tiny portion finished to afford protection from the elements. It is no surprise that in spite of her wonderful beaches, beautiful seaside walks, fine restaurants and antique villages set into and onto her awe-inspiring mountain ranges, many northerners look down on her, for her unkept and unfinished houses, the graffiti on walls of city buildings, trash that lines scenic roadsides and her antiquated methods of conducting business in civic buildings. We might wonder if these maladies are a result of Calabria’s brothers' interference and influence in city or regional management, the exodus of bright talented youth, inept, uncaring administrations or simply a lack of money. It is impossible to say, perhaps a little of each, but for sure, if one is to appreciate the beauty of Calabria, one has to be willing to look past her sometimes shabby appearance. Calabria is considered safe for tourists. Criminal organizations like the mafia and ‘Ndrangheta do not target tourists. More worrisome and risky for most, would be traveling on the Calabrian roadways. For someone thinking of visiting Calabria, but not disposed to visit a place often referred to as a third world country embedded in modern Western Europe there are a plethora of better choices. But then, the beautiful Calabria would be alone. She deserves better. In addition to her beaches and mountain top towns, Calabria has many charms, not the least of which are her children. Kind gentle souls, glad to help a stranger and accommodating to those that visit. ................
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