Construction is a complicated process



Building: Start to Finish, Part 1

Construction is a complicated process. Starting with the design of the building down through finishing touches, there are numerous opportunities to save money, make significant improvements and construct an overwhelmingly fantastic building. Over the next couple of newsletters, we’ll explore the construction process from the ground up. There’s also a brief overview of each step on our website under the “New to Construction- Building: Start to Finish” section.

The flow chart below will be our roadmap for the series. It is intended as a guideline only. Depending on the materials and specific project, some steps may be added, omitted or reordered.

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Contractor, Plans and Financing

The first three steps are closely intertwined. Once you’ve envisioned the building, you’ll develop plans, arrange financing and select a contractor. The two common ways to develop plans are either to contact an architect or designer or to enlist a contractor in a “design-build” scenario. Both approaches have merit, and each will include (at minimum) an architect or engineer certifying the plans.

When reviewing potential contractors, you should look at experience, ability to work with you, schedule and price. First, the contractor should have clearly demonstrated experience in similar construction. Navigating code requirements, materials and building techniques are learning processes, translating into increased costs for you. For example, commercial building code is typically more stringent than residential, while the finish woodwork in a luxury home will be more demanding than that of a production home. Next, you’ll work closely with the contractor for a few months or longer, so choose someone that you feel comfortable working with. The availability in a contractor’s schedule to work with you may also determine your choice. Do you need the project to start immediately, or do you have the flexibility to wait for a chosen builder?

Price could easily occupy an entire article (for example, see our August Newsletter on Budgeting). There are two basic ways to determine your construction price. The first is a lump sum approach, in which one or more contractors submit a fixed price to you. The main advantage of a lump sum is your control over price. Conversely, the main disadvantage is that any cost savings are retained by the contractor. Also, competitive bidding may encourage contractors to select materials and subcontractors on price rather than quality. It’s referred to as low risk for the owner, as the contractor assumes most of the price risk, so don’t expect many discounts.

Negotiated bid is a practice that allows shared budget risk between the owner and the contractor. The contractor will still prepare a budget estimate as in fixed bidding, but the owner will only pay costs which are actually incurred. In the event that a contractor is able to save money, the owner will also save money. If there are cost overruns, the owner will also pay the overruns. In negotiated bids, it is imperative that you have selected an experienced contractor that you trust. The main advantages of negotiated bid include potential cost savings, freedom from change orders, and more control over the budget as the project progresses. Some contractors may also provide a discount to their standard markup, as the owner is sharing the risk of price fluctuations. The disadvantages include the potential for cost overruns and no fixed price. Two common modifications to the negotiated bid approach include a “not to exceed” cap, which requires change orders for any costs over the estimate, and a shared savings approach, which incentivizes the contractor to find cost savings by reward them with a percentage.

Ensuring proper financing for your project is important. You’ll want to make sure that you have enough money available to cover the construction cost with a spare contingency fund. Find a local banker that you feel comfortable working with; they can help guide you through the process and identify common pitfalls.

Tips to Savings

You have the most potential for cost savings in this step of the game. Ask your designer or architect how you can lower construction and operating costs. Then flip it around and ask your contractor for their recommendations as well. Each will have different, and valuable, information to offer. Since only paper is involved at this point, the cost to make changes will be minimum or nonexistent. You can also visit showrooms for various fixtures (lighting, plumbing, etc.) to narrow down costs on specific items.

Tips for Success

Take pictures, drive by similar buildings, and look through magazines, presenting your findings to your designer or architect. Keep a file or notebook with your ideas. Use masking tape to layout potential rooms if you need to check dimensions for specific furniture pieces. Look up contractors on the Washington Labor and Industries Website to ensure that they are licensed, safe, and in good standing. Ask for referrals and references from and for architects and contractors. Finally, be wary of prices that seem too good to be true (they probably are).

Permits and Insurance

Prior to purchasing materials and commencing site work, you’ll need to obtain a permit from your local building department. The department will review your plans and may mandate certain changes to comply with code. Depending on your location and project, reviews may include fire, flood, traffic impact and more. A permit fee will also be required, which varies by jurisdiction and estimated construction cost.

You’ll want to obtain a copy of your contractor’s liability insurance naming you as an additionally insured. Your lender may also require you to obtain specialty insurance for the duration of construction.

Tips to Savings

In jurisdictions and projects with easy permitting, take care of the permit yourself and save on markups or associated labor costs. If your lender requires specialty insurance, check to make sure that your contractor’s insurance does not mirror the coverage. If it does, present it to the lender and ask them to waive the requirement.

Tips for Success

In jurisdictions where permitting may be complicated, such as certain watersheds, see if your architect or contractor typically navigates the process. Familiarity with complicated permitting can save you significant time and money. Next, do not mistake surety bonds for insurance. A surety bond, required by the state for licensed contractors, can help you complete the project if your contractor defaults. Liability insurance, on the other hand, will protect you from negligence or damage by the contractor.

Building: Start to Finish, Part 2

In our last issue, we began a detailed look at the building process, designed to put owners’ in the driver’s seat of their construction projects. We covered selection of a contractor, drawing up plans, financing and permitting and insurance. This issue, we’ll get started on the construction itself. If you don’t have the flow chart we’re working with, you can review it here.

Site Preparation

With your permit in hand, it’s time to break ground. You’ll be excavating for foundations, laying down access roads, trenching utilities, installing drain fields and septic systems, drilling wells, building retaining walls and installing temporary facilities such as power, light, water and restrooms.

Your contractor will be coordinating all of this work based on the plans you developed previously. Unless you’re a heavy equipment operator, your interaction at this step will mostly be limited to taking pictures.

Tips to Success

Planning is key here. You’ll see increased costs if heavy machinery needs to be brought back to the site later for additional work (mobilization costs).

Inspections

At this point, you probably just had your first experience with inspections without even realizing it. Once certain actions are completed, your contractor will call for an inspection from the applicable government organization, which is typically completed within 24 to 48 hours. If your contractor followed the approved plans with standard building practices, you’ll rarely have any problems with inspections.

Foundation

The most common building foundations are made from concrete. Large foundations begin with a low visibility, steady preparation process, followed by a short, intense day of pouring. If you miss visiting the job site for a few days, you may unknowingly show up to a fully finished foundation!

To begin, workers will take wood or reusable form boards and create a “mold” for the fluid concrete. Your contractor will also place rebar in these forms, a metal reinforcement that adds tensile strength to concrete’s inherent compression strength. At this point, the contractor will also include certain imbedded objects, such as anchor bolts or post base brackets. You’ll also be subject to a rebar inspection during this time period.

Finally, you’ll have a concrete pour on a dry day with little or no chance of rain. Your concrete crew will schedule concrete delivery trucks, pump trucks (if necessary), and order any necessary rental equipment, such as concrete vibrators. Depending on the size of the foundation, the pour might take a few hours or as an entire day. One to three days after the pour, the crew will come back and begin “stripping” the forms from the concrete, leaving your finished foundation!

Tips to Savings

Most foundations require footings, which are often poured separately from your foundation walls. Some designs allow these pours to be combined for some cost savings. You may also be able to volunteer your time at this point, acting as a laborer or member of the crew to save labor costs. The success tips below also offer some insight into ways to save money.

Tips to Success

Planning is essential to concrete work. Pouring a 6’ tall foundation wall, for example, poses a challenge for removing the interior concrete forms. Likewise, if you’re adding a concrete slab to the interior of a foundation wall, you may have several hours of wait time until the slab is ready for finishing, time that could be used to strip the forms from the outside of the foundation wall. Planning reduces wasted time, costs and chances for injury in concrete work.

In our next issue we’ll begin to look at framing, windows, doors and some other fun stuff. Until then, if you have questions, please don’t hesitate to call or email. And of course, we’re always happy to provide construction management and free estimates.

Building: Start to Finish, Part 3

If you’re joining us for the first, time, we’re at the third installment of “Building: Start to Finish,” an abbreviated, reader-friendly look at a typical construction or remodel process. At the end of our last article, readers were left with a finished foundation. In this article, we’ll explore the building as it begins to stand up and be noticed.

Framing

No doubt you’ve driven by a building lot before and did a double take. Where did that house come from?! The house was probably in the framing stage, where the contractor begins to erect the skeleton of the house. There are four basic types you might see: stick framing, structurally insulated panels (SIPs), masonry or block buildings, and insulated concrete forms (ICFs). Stick framing, the most common technique, uses wooden or steel studs to literally build the house piece by piece, covering it with wooden sheeting to enclose it. It’s a fast, affordable technique, allowing most houses to be framed in two to four weeks. Advanced framing is when larger studs are spaced at wider intervals, typically 2x6 studs spaced at 24 inches. Its goal is to increase the thermal properties of the wall by replacing heat conducting studs with insulation.

Structurally insulated panels are prefabricated walls of foam insulation sandwiched between sheets of OSB. Common in high efficiency homes, SIPs typically cost more than stick framing materials but are erected faster, saving labor, with a net result of being equal or slightly more expensive than stick framing. Locally, masonry structures are more common for commercial structures and include brick and concrete bricks (CMU). Finally, insulated concrete forms are another building technique favored by high efficiency structures. When using ICFs, panels made of an insulating material are used to pour concrete walls for the height of the structure. The result is a highly insulated, air tight building, similar to those constructed with SIPs. It should be noted that each of these framing techniques refer to exterior walls. In most cases, stick framing will be used to build interior walls.

Tips for Savings

During your design phase, work with your architect to make your plans more buildable. For example, reducing the number of wall corners and using standard dimension can each save small amounts, as well as reduce construction waste.

In terms of construction costs, advanced (stick) framing is most likely to save you money. You can also ask the contractor to look for incremental savings, such as eliminating or substituting unnecessary hangers or connectors. Structurally engineered products, such as glulams or I-joists, may also save money over conventional wood beams in some applications.

Tips for Success

Framing provides a great opportunity for life-cycle cost analysis, which includes ongoing costs such as maintenance and utility costs. SIPs and ICF construction may cost more for installation, but realize savings in furnace size and monthly heating or cooling costs. Discuss the benefits and drawbacks of these with your builder or architect to determine which is right for you. If pursuing SIPs or ICF construction, it is important to work closely with your plumber and electrician prior to beginning construction, as it limits their work.

Windows and Doors

The next step after framing is external windows and doors. There are five basic types of window frames: vinyl, fiberglass, wood, aluminum, and composite. Vinyl frames are the most common as they are affordable, low maintenance and offer good thermal properties (reducing heating bills). Fiberglass windows are similar to vinyl, and can also be painted and shaped with more architectural freedom. Wood windows look great and can be painted or stained, but require regular maintenance and are more expensive than vinyl. Aluminum windows’ strength grants them greater architectural flexibility and low maintenance, but cost and thermal properties can also suffer. Composite windows are a combination of two frame materials, which vary by manufacturer. Manufacturers also provide coatings to glass that improve and optimize performance. Windows also come in different styles and operations, from bay and double hung to casement and pictures windows.

Doors come in many of the same materials as windows, with the same benefits and drawbacks to each. Also customizable in doors are “lite kits,” which are the glass sections of your door. Typical options include full-lites (whole door glass), half-lites (half door glass) and divided-lites (which use smaller pieces to make up a pattern). Side-lites, the windows directly adjacent to a door, are also available. Doors often come prehung in the frame, allowing streamlined installation by the contractor.

Tips for Savings

Windows and doors also benefit from life-cycle cost analysis, weighing the benefits of low maintenance and insulating values to construction costs. There’s often an economic and performance sweet spot between cheap windows and ultra-high end windows. Vinyl windows are perhaps the best value for the money, offering great performance and low prices. As a quick comparison, aluminum windows can cost roughly double the price of similar vinyl windows. Assess how often you will open the window, as opening windows can cost more than picture windows. A difficult to reach window is unlikely to be opened regularly. For both windows and doors, find a reputable manufacturer, but don’t get stuck on brands.

Tips for Success

It’s important to work with your builder and architect to find the right windows and doors for the right job, looking at the whole package. There’s no point in buying an expensive solid wood front door and pairing it with a cheap handle or frame. Also consider the typical traffic through a door when selecting sizes. Sizes are described in width by height terms, so a 3068 door is 3 feet, 0 inches wide by 6 feet, 8 inches tall. When discussing doors or windows, use pictures to communicate exactly what you would like; many people use different door terminology and mix-ups are common.

You’ll notice during this issue that we mentioned life-cycle costs a few times. It’s easy to cut construction costs with disastrous ongoing results. For example, skimping on insulation might save a few hundred bucks upfront, and cost you hundreds a year in heating costs. Make sure you keep a good balance between cost and quality throughout your project, and plan ahead to ensure you have the funds to finish it as intended. Next issue we’ll continue on to discuss electrical, plumbing, mechanical and our building envelope.

Building: Start to Finish, Part 4

In our last issue, we left readers with a building that was starting to take shape. Today we’ll start to add electrical, mechanical, siding and our roof. In truth, our electrical and mechanical contractors have been working on the project since the beginning, installing temporary utilities, trenching and conduits in the foundation. Mechanical includes plumbing and heating, ventilation, and air conditioning (HVAC). The lines begin trades tend to get a little fuzzy here. On some projects, you’ll have three subcontractors for HVAC, plumbing and electrical. On others, the electrician might provide heating or a single company handle mechanical. We’ll tackle all three together, breaking out specifics as necessary.

Roofing and Siding

Roofing and Siding share many common characteristics. They both protect your home from the elements, affect heating and cooling, and even share many common materials. The most common roofing materials in the Northwest and their projected life spans are composition shingle (20 years to lifetime), wood shakes (20 to 25 years), and metal (20 years to lifetime). Other roofing materials can include tile, rubber tile, concrete tile, and torch-down or membrane roofs. Common siding materials include wood (shake, plank, board and batten), fiber cement (JamesHardie or LP products which mimic wood), metal, stucco, or plaster, and brick. When choosing siding and roofing, aesthetic design is often the first factor to consider. A house in plaster and tile may remind people of an Italian Villa, while the same house in cedar shake roofing and horizontal plank siding would look right at home on a farm, so appearance usually take precedence. Price is the other big factor, and can vary not only by material but by the structure’s design as well. For example, metal roofing is fairly easy to install on a single peak rambler. On a house with a large number of peaks, however, the price begins to jump quickly as full metal sheets are cut to accommodate the various angles. Composition shingles and shakes don’t face that challenge.

While the different materials boast different strengths, the common factor is installation. Poor installation is simply begging for water damage, mold, rot, and warping. Part of this stretches back to the design phase. A large roof should shed water at evenly spaced points. If angles, peaks and valleys force all that water into one or two spots, it’s much harder to control. Another key to installation is proper flashing. Flashing is typically metal (if exposed) or a synthetic (if hidden), and has the simple purpose of keeping water out of your house. When a window is installed, proper flashing is what keeps water from seeping into the house and behind the siding. It’s also used where roofing meets siding and around roofing protrusions such as vent pipes and chimneys. Lastly, it’s important to note that what’s under the siding and roofing is as important as what’s on top. For example, many builders are now looking at drainable house wraps and techniques, which allow water to exit when it does get under the siding.

Tips to Savings

Compare reputable manufacturers and installers, but the short answer is that you shouldn’t try to save a bundle on roofing and siding. Let’s put it this way: if you were planning to spend 30 years exposed to the elements, you’d probably invest in some decent rain gear!

Tips to Success

If they haven’t already, ask your architect or designer to overlay your desired siding and roofing onto the plans so that you can better visualize the finished product. Look up pictures of similar houses to see what you like or don’t like. If you have concern about the quality of installation, an east trick is to ask a company how they prevent water from getting in. The correct answer is “proper flashing,” not “caulk.” Caulk products, while useful, especially for aesthetics, typically offer only a few years of protection, depending on product, exposure to sunlight and installation. It’s a good practice to use caulk, but only in addition to adequate flashing.

Electrical and Mechanical

With our roof and siding offering good weather protection, we’re at a stage called “rough-in.” Our subcontractors (electrical, plumbing, HVAC) will be installing pipes, conduits, outlet boxes, and ducts, and will come back later in the project to install our fixtures, such as toilets and lights. The plumber should install first, followed by HVAC and then the electrician. Often there may be some overlap while they work simultaneously.

Tips for Savings

Your contractor should “right size” the appropriate electrician, plumber and HVAC contractor. A large commercial HVAC company can work on a house, but the cost may be higher. Likewise, a small company may hold up the schedule on large project, and time is money.

Feel free to shop around, but don’t plan to order all of your fixtures online. If your master bathroom toilet breaks or arrives without all the bits and pieces, you want to be able to walk into a supplier and get a replacement, not wait for a return email. Additionally, your installer is unlikely to provide a warranty on items that you purchase separately.

Tips for Success

Make sure your electrician, plumber and HVAC contractors coordinate with each other and with your general contractor as to who is planning to run what and where, preferably before framing. Conflicts can sometimes occur in tight quarters such as small mechanical rooms. And again, pick companies with the right skill set for what you’re building.

Envision how you will use the space and plan accordingly to ensure that outlets, sinks, light switches and appliances are in just the right space. Finally, listen to subcontractors if they voice concerns. They’ve probably seem the same situation a dozen times prior.

Building: Start to Finish, Part 5

If you’ve been following along with the Building: Start to Finish series, you’ll know that the house we’ve been “building” was previously left off with siding and roofing. From a street view, the house just needs a little touchup. The inside is a different matter. Once you step through the front door, you’ll see unfinished subfloors, open stud walls, exposed wires and pipe, and more! Our flow chart grouped the next steps under the heading “Interior,” which includes insulation, drywall, painting, flooring, trim, trim out, and casework. We’ll cover half in this installment and half in the next.

Be forewarned! If you’ve been watching your budget, you may be inclined to splurge at this point. After all, the house is up and you’ve probably spent less than half your budget. While the structural component is the largest physically, the interior finishes can be up to fifty to seventy percent monetarily.

Insulation

Insulation serves two purposes in a home. In exterior walls, ceilings, and floors it offers thermal protection to lower heating and cooling costs. In interior walls it aids in sound privacy (think bathrooms). Insulation is rated by R-Value, which reflects its effectiveness, with the higher the value, the better. The three most common types of insulation are blanket, loose-fill or blown-in, and sprayed foam. Blanket insulation is what most of us envision for insulation: rolls or batts of pink fiberglass tucked between studs. Blown-in insulation is made of loose fibers and commonly used for attics, and sometimes for walls. Sprayed foam is a product that is sprayed or injected into place between studs.

Tips for Savings

The best way to save money on insulation is to hire a reputable insulation company. They can often supply and install insulation for less than most homeowners can buy the materials for, due to their volume pricing. Insulation is always one of the best ways to invest in your home; a little extra money on insulation can reap huge savings in heating and cooling with a return on investment time of one to three years.

Tips for Success

Insulation is only effective if it fills all gaps, limiting air flow. Ensure that blanket insulation is cut to an exact fit and is not compressed. Typically the cost and effectiveness of each type, starting at the lowest, is blanket insulation, blown-in, sprayed foam.

Drywall

Most buildings use drywall to cover interior walls. It’s affordable, looks good, and is sound dampening and fire resistant. It is composed of naturally occurring gypsum sandwiched between two sheets of paper and will be screwed to the wall with joints sealed, textured, and painted. Textures include orange peel (the common “speckled” look), smooth wall (a higher end finished), and knockdown, which produces a marbled look. Additional considerations are corner profiles (square or round) and window wraps (drywall on the inside of window casings).

Tips for Savings

Square corners and an orange peel texture are typically the most cost effective finishes. Sometimes a knockdown texture, which has a higher-end look, can be obtained for only a minor increase. Window wraps add costs, but can save on trim down the road.

Tips for Success

Speaking from personal experience, hire someone! While most home-owners can do a passable job, a drywall contractor will do it better in a fraction of the time.

Painting

Most of us are well acquainted with paint. In residential applications, the process will typically include one coat of primer and two coats of paint. In addition to color, you’ll choose a finish sheen, which include (from least sheen up) matte, eggshell, satin, semi-gloss and gloss. Higher sheens are more moisture resistant and easier to clean.

Tips for Savings

This is one step that many homeowners choose to self perform. If doing so, select a good quality paint that covers well to save on extra coats and buy 5 gallon containers. Sometimes the drywall contractor will also provide your primer, so ensure you’re not paying for two.

Tips for Success

Consult with your painter or supplier on the best sheens to use by room. Buy samples of desired colors and paint sections of your walls to see how a color looks in setting.

Flooring

The types of flooring available are nearly limitless, including carpet, finished concrete, tile, linoleum, marmoleum, vinyl, wood, laminate, and VCT. Each type comes in different sizes, styles and price ranges. The best way to narrow down your options is to visit a specialized flooring store with your plans and work with an experienced salesperson. Before you go in, consider your current floor. What do you like about it? What would you change?

Tips for Savings

There are a lot of great looking products for incredible prices. Laminate wood is a great example of one that can look great and still be easy on the wallet. Other budget friendly options are carpet and vinyl. Some products can be easy for you to install yourself including some laminates.

Tips for Success

Consider your usage. Cheap tile floors may crack if a heavy pot is dropped, some woods may scratch under traffic from kids or pets, and white carpet is nearly taboo for red wine drinkers. If you have allergies, remember that carpet can hold in allergens. Picking the appropriate flooring will insure that you’re pleased with it for years to come.

We’ll pick up next issue with trim, trim-out and casework. Our series is nearly complete!

Building: Start to Finish, Part 6

Our house is nearly complete! In the last installment of Building: Start to Finish, we began adding the interior touches that make a home comfortable and habitable. While we won’t finish today, by the time we’re done you could move in if you needed to vacate a previous residence or save on costly rent. Let’s dive right in!

Trim

Interior trim includes base trim, crown molding and wainscot, and can change the entire look of a house. Trim is the “picture frame” for a room; deep hardwoods can create a rich atmosphere, glossy whites set up a bright traditional home, and so much more. Your contractor or supplier can help you navigate the multitude of trim profiles to find the one(s) that work for you. You’ll choose whether you want it painted (different colors) or stained (wood tones). Trim is available in bare wood, primed wood and primed MDF.

Tips for Savings

Since trim can be added after the rest of the home is completed, handier homeowners may choose to do this step themselves. If you do, ensure that you have a good saw and miter kit. Because pieces will be cut to length, the trim stock needed can be up to thirty percent more than will actually be installed, so plan accordingly or perform a detailed takeoff of which pieces go where. If you plan to paint the trim, MDF is a cost effective choice.

Tips for Success

If you don’t find a trim profile that you love, consider a combination. You can create custom and complex designs by layering two or more styles.

Trim-Out

You may recall that our electrical and mechanical contractors “roughed-in” pipes, wires and ducts after we framed. Once we have our flooring and drywall in place, these contractors will come back and install all of the usable parts of these systems, including sinks, toilets, showers, outlets, light switches, fans, lights, registers and grilles. If you haven’t already picked these out, now is the time to do so.

Tips for Savings

If you’re over budget at this point, trim-out can be a good place to save a little if you planned on high end finishes. Your contractor or trade contractors should be able to work with you to find less expensive alternatives that fit your décor. Something to look for at the beginning of your project: some companies may add a flat fee in addition to any costs if fixtures are changed, especially if fixtures are already purchased.

Tips for Success

Attention to detail is important at this step. You wouldn’t want to install glossy white wainscot and install off-white outlet covers on it. Also, don’t install bargain basement fixtures. You’ll pay more in labor for someone to come out and replace a faulty toilet or light fixture than you will to put in the right product first, and save yourself some hassle in the process.

Casework

Casework includes any cabinets, built-ins or other custom woodwork, typically related to storage. Kitchen and bathroom cabinets are the most common. Cabinets are available in a spectrum of price and customization. On the least expensive end are off the shelf solutions such as IKEA and big-box store brands. While there are often lots of options to choose from, what you see is what you get. These may fit awkwardly in certain spaces or require “filler” panels to bridge gaps. In the middle of the spectrum are various shades of customization where you can customize cabinets within different style lines and factory tolerances, often referred to as semi-custom. At the upper end in terms of customization, craftsmanship and price are fully-custom cabinets. Usually built by local craftsman, these can be tailored to include whatever style, material, storage options and design you like. If you have an odd shaped space, custom cabinets are best as they can come in virtually any size or shape.

You’ll also need to select a countertop. Countertop materials include laminate, wood, stainless steel, granite or marble, concrete, recycled glass, quartz and solid surface materials (which are often a type of heat treated plastic). Consider your use and style when selecting a product. Laminate is inexpensive and wears well. Stone products can usually take the heat of a dish straight from the oven, and butcher block wood tops can turn your entire kitchen into a prep surface and cutting board. Each material is available in a wide variety of styles and colors.

Tips for Savings

Both countertops and cabinets have dramatic differences in price from the low to the high end, as much as five or six times the cost. If you’ve had significant cost overruns in the rest of your project, you may be able to save some money by choosing a different countertop or altering your cabinet design. If you’re anxious for stone product, but can’t quite fit it in your budget, consider using a tile product. Quarried from the same stone, the tile is often a cheaper alternative.

Tips for Success

Invest in the things you care about. If you spend all of your time in the kitchen, you may feel unsatisfied with big box cabinets. This probably isn’t the case if your cooking expertise is limited to the flavors of TV dinners. If you’re sorting through cabinet quotes, see if pulls (handles) are included. These can range from a few bucks to over twenty dollars each and are often excluded in pricing.

The interior of the house should now be complete! While the outside needs to be touched up in our next article with some paint and landscaping, we should be able to close out the project in our next article. We’ll also cover items like punch lists and warranties.

Building: Start to Finish, Part 7

It’s time to bring our Building: Start to Finish series to a close. Painting and landscaping will finish our construction, while a look at punch lists and warranties will round out our paperwork.

Exterior Painting

Your exterior paint is the outermost surface of your home and will take the worst that weather can offer. It’s your first layer of protection. After cleaning and prepping, the painter will mask off surfaces that may be accidentally painted. Next, one or two coats of primer will be added, unless the product is pre-primed. Finally, two coats of exterior paint should be applied.

In remodeling, the cleaning and surface preparation is extremely important. It’s also vital to kill any mold and mildew, which can actually sprout through the paint. Additionally, any paint before 1980 is assumed to contain lead. Overexposure to lead can lead to serious health problems, even through dust related health hazards after the project is completed. Washington State requires contractors working with lead to receive a special certification.

Tips for Savings

As with interior paint, exterior paint is often viewed as something that handier home owners can do themselves.

Tips for success.

High quality exterior paint will usually cover better than budget paint, lowering labor and time costs. Take the time to properly prepare and clean your surface. When you’re painting high surfaces, take extra care for fall protection. Falls are a leading cause of construction related injuries and deaths. Check the weather forecast to avoid rain. If your home is on the challenging end, hire a professional.

Landscaping

The first step in landscaping is planning. This can be as simple as a hand drawn sketch with help from a DIY book or a detailed one by a landscape designer. Planning helps you control budget and layout, and looks ahead at maintenance requirements and seasonal displays. Your landscaping can include grass, flower beds, hardscapes (walkways, patios), water features, usable spaces (gazebos, fire pits), trees, hedges, and more. You’re only limited by your imagination, climate and budget.

Tips for Savings

Buy items like topsoil in bulk. The bagged version is often double the price. Salvage shops may carry pavers and landscaping wood. Reuse what you already have in your yard, replanting as needed. Finally, get to know your local retailers, who freely dispense advice and may be able to provide discounted prices or better quality.

Tips for Success

Make sure you leave money in your budget for this last, but important step. Consider how your landscaping will grow and mature. If you don’t have the time or money to keep up an extensive garden, shy away from high maintenance landscaping. Will you be able to move your lawn mower between patches of grass? Will that tree grow up and block your view? What will your garden look like in winter? Finally, remember to include drainage to ensure that your landscape doesn’t turn into a muddy swimming pool!

Punch list

The last thing to complete is a punch list, a To Do list for completion. You and your contractor will walk through the project and establish a single, comprehensive list of items that need to be completed or corrected in order to satisfy the terms of your contract. Items addressed include incorrect installation, damage, and poor craftsmanship. Once the items on this checklist are complete, you’ll be done! This process includes receiving the Operations and Maintenance Manuals (O&M’s) for equipment and specialty finishes, such as a touch-screen thermostat or hardwired theater system.

Tips for Success

The punch list is only intended to bring the final project in line with your blueprints, correspondence, contract, and proper building practices. Other changes like different colors or light fixtures may cost extra. Allow enough time for a thorough walk through, and take pictures if desired. If you’ve occupied the space prior to the punch list, wear and tear from your usage is not a punch list item.

Warranty

Your home is complete, the bills are paid, and you’re now living there! And then the unthinkable happens. A door sags and stops closing correctly or your furnace suddenly goes out. In truth, neither of these are likely, but you’ll want to make sure your contractor provided you with a warranty period in your contract just in case. Often for a period of one year, this warranty provides you a guarantee against any issues.

Tips for Success

If you notice a problem, take pictures and detailed notes. Often the issue may be difficult to recreate, such as a leaky roof on a sunny day. This will assist the contractor in timely resolution of the issue. Manufactured and consumer products, such as windows, mechanical systems, and fixtures are often omitted from the contractor’s warranty, as their manufacturer provides a warranty. However, your contractor will usually assist you in obtaining a repair or replacement should anything happen.

You’re done! The building process can be long, emotional and hard work. Take time to enjoy your new home!

If these articles prompted you to begin a project, here are some resources to get you started. Your local builder’s association can offer builder and supplier referrals () and your building department, city or county, will answer questions about code requirements and permitting. For green construction, visit . Finally, the author of this column can be reached at joshb@.

Commercial Sidebar

If you own a business and have been following along with our series you should know about differences between home and commercial projects. Commercial grade products are built to withstand constant usage. While the front door of a home may be opened three or four times a day, the entrance to a busy store may see that every minute. Commercial floors are likewise sturdier to accommodate increased traffic, like the constant flow of a restaurant.

Finishes often differ too. Suspended ceiling tiles are perfect for offices which are periodically reconfigured, but are rare in homes. Also uncommon in homes, fiber reinforced wall panels (FRP) are common in wet commercial settings.

Finally, the code requirements and some trade licenses are different in commercial settings. ADA access, sprinklers, and stair construction are common ways to get tripped up in commercial construction. If in doubt, ask your architect or building department.

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