FURNITURE
INSTITUTE OF HOTEL MANAGEMENT & CATERING TECHNOLOGY, TRIVANDRUM
ACCOMMODATION MANAGEMENT– TYB.Sc.H&HA (BHM304) 2009-2010
6. 7 INTERIOR DECORATION - FURNITURE
In any establishment, furniture covers a wide variety of different items which will be in constant use and yet should retain their overall good appearance. People are seldom as careful of other people’s property as they are of their own and the handling of furniture by large numbers of people results in harder use than if one person was using it all the time.
Hence it is very necessary to choose the right type of furniture keeping in mind the kind of use it has to undergo.
Chapter Outline:
6.7.1 Points to be considered while choosing furniture
6.7.2 Types of furniture
Free standing, Built-in, Fitted
3. Requirements for furniture
Tables, Chairs and upholstered furniture, Wardrobes, Beds & Bed bases, Mattresses, Pillows, Bolsters and Cushions
4. Materials and finishes used for furniture
Wood, Plywood, Veneer, Wicker, Cane,
Outdoor furniture - Wrought Iron, Aluminium, Plastic,
Antique
5. Joining Methods
6. Quality check
7. Terms to know
Objectives:
At the end of this topic, you must be able to:
1. List the points to be considered while choosing furniture
2. List the different types of furniture and their specifications.
3. Discuss the different types of materials and finishes used for furniture.
4. Identify different joining methods and suggest appropriate joints.
5. Check and evaluate quality of furniture.
6. Explain common terms used in furniture.
6.7.1 Points to be considered while choosing furniture:
Furniture must be practical in design and size.
1. Comfort: The shape and size of article in relation to the human body is paramount to comfort and this science is called ergonomics. Examples : The width of the seat and the shape of the back of the chair are important to its
comfort. The height of the table and the chair in relation to each other, the height and depth of the wardrobe and the length and width of the bed are other examples.
2. Serviceability: will also depend on design; shelves are probably more serviceable in the bedroom than drawers, and `built-in' furniture can save space, labour, floor and wall coverings.
3. Durability: The furniture must be sturdy to withstand considerable wear and tear as it will be handled by a large number of people.
4. Easy to clean and maintain: As far as possible, the design of furniture should be simple for ease of cleaning. Carvings, crevices, ledges etc. can be dust traps which have to be cleaned regularly. A piece of furniture should have a gap of atleast 25 cms from the floor for ease of cleaning. Castors can facilitate the moving of heavy furniture. Many sofas now have removable, washable covers which can ease cleaning. Shelves instead of drawers, drawers with wipe-easy surfaces ,use of self-shine protective coatings can ease cleaning and maintenance. This is of importance in all establishments but especially so when there is the possibility of a quick turn round of rooms, i.e., a large number of departures in one day and in establishments in the medium and lower price range where maids may be expected to service more rooms.
5. Versatility and movability: Items may be moved from room to room as required if castors are fitted on to heavier items. A dressing table/writing table may satisfy the woman who on holiday has more time to 'make up' leisurely and the business person who has reports to write. More clothes storage space is required by the holiday maker than by the business person staying one or two nights, so a fitment which combines hanging and shelf space can provide sufficient space and a neater piece of furniture than separate wardrobe and chest of drawers. Flexibility and movability of furniture may be required in some places to enable the rooms to be put to different uses. It may be necessary at certain times for guests' rooms in hotels to have extra beds or cots put in, or rearranged for luncheons, exhibitions, or as syndicate rooms for conferences.
6. Style- The atmosphere to be achieved will also affect the design. For example: modern, 'old world'...The style of any piece of furniture must go with the rest, though it will not necessarily be of similar design. Chairs for dressing tables should be chosen with the particular dressing table/writing table in mind and any chair in the bedroom of a medium price hotel may not necessarily be suitable for a luxury hotel and vice versa. It may be an advantage to have a variety of easy chairs in a lounge, some with higher seats, or lower arms, or with wings, but each should be in keeping with its fellows, and none should look as though it had arrived there by accident.
7. Price: The price must be within the means of the establishment.
6.7.2. Types of furniture
There are four types of furniture - Free-standing, Cantilevered, Built-in and Fitted.
Free-standing: chairs , beds, etc. This type of furniture can be rearranged whenever necessary. However it accumulates dust behind above and beneath.
Cantilevered: Cantilevered furniture is fixed on brackets to the wall and hence there are no legs to get in the way of cleaning.
Built-in: wardrobes, cabinets etc. Usually the cost is incorporated into the building cost. If required, it can be installed later, but can work out more expensive. Since built-in furniture have no gaps, cleaning is minimized.
However, once built in, the item cannot be moved, which can be a disadvantage in long-stay rooms like hostels and residential apartments where guest like to rearrange furniture.
Fitted: shelves, cupboards. Though built-in and fitted mean almost the same, fitted furniture are made to fit existing alcoves and niches, thereby saving space. The room appears more spacious and streamlined.
6.7. 3. Requirements for furniture
Tables.
• Consider the primary use of the table – is it for dining or working, for a lounge or a bedroom? Each area will have different requirements.
• The table top surface must be easily maintained, heat and stain resistant.
• The shape of the table must be considered. Round tables allow guests to sit in a more informal manner.
• Glass topped tables must be avoided in commercial establishments. They are difficult to maintain and may be dangerous.
• In conference areas, foldable and easily stackable light weight tables must be used. It is also possible to obtain leg frames which allow various shapes and sizes.
• The height for writing tables, above the chair seat, should have atleast 30cm ; this allows for knee clearance. The height of the table from the floor is therefore 70-84 cm; coffee table 35-50 cm high.
Chairs, Upholstered furniture – arm chairs and sofas
Backs should be high enough to support the whole of the occupant's back. Seats should be long and wide enough to relax the thighs and knees. Depth of chair seat is related to the height of the chair, eg. armchair 33-38 cm high seat, depth could be 60-70 cm. Upright chair 42-45 cm high seat, depth could be 42-50 cm. An armchair should have a minimum width of 48 cm, a wing chair of 56 cm between wings. The gap between the back and the seat of an upright chair should be 20 cm high and backrest 20 cm, so that the top of chair is 40 cm above seat, the gap enables easier cleaning. If there are arms on the chair they should not protrude more than 25mm further than the front of the chair. Chairs meant for conferences must be easily stackable, have clips fitted on to the legs of the chairs or on to the backs to enable the chairs to fit together for easy assembling in rows. Chairs for use with tables should have atleast 30cm gap between the table and the chair for ease of sitting.
Upholstered furniture like sofas and armchairs has a framework of wood across which tension springs are fixed. A simple lightweight chair will have removable seats and backs made of plastic or rubber foam cut to the size and shape of the chair and covered with the upholstery material which are provided with zips and hence easily removable. The heavier ones have another framework covering the springs, which in turn is covered with webbing, hessain and stuffing covered with upholstery material which is usually fixed on to the sofas. The main areas of wear are arm rests, headrests and the seat. Throw overs are usually provided to protect the arm and head rests. how-wood tips also prevent upholstered arms from getting quite so dirty.
Wardrobes
The type of guests and their length of stay must be considered before choosing a wardrobe. Wardrobe may be built-in or free standing. If free standing, the legs must be shoed to protect the carpet. A light inside the wardrobe is usually appreciated.
There should be a 60 cm minimum hanging space in a single wardrobe; 90 cm minimum hanging space in a double wardrobe; 56-60 cm depth to prevent rubbing of clothes when hanging. The height to accommodate full length dresses is 175 cm; a man's wardrobe may be 150 cm with 25 cm shelf for hats. The space above 200 cm is too high to be used conveniently. The hanging rail should be firmly fixed and not too close to the top, firm enough for heavy coats but not too thick for coat hanger hooks.
Beds
When guests stay in an establishment, they are naturally concerned with sleeping and the comfort of the beds is of great importance. The beds must not only be comfortable but must look inviting, and this will depend on the design, the materials from which they are made, and the neatly finished appearance of the beds in the room. Standard sizes of single and double beds are:
3 ft X 6 ft 6in : single
5 ft X 6ft 6 in : double queen
6 ft X 6 ft 6 in: double king
The height of the bed is not only important to the appearance of the room but also to the ease with which an elderly guest can get in or out of it and the ease with which it can be made. With the tendency for hotel rooms to be smaller than in the past the bed should not be so dominant that the room appears still smaller, so in many establishments divans are used instead of bedsteads.
Bed bases:
A bed consists of a mattress supported by a base. The base may be made of
• open coiled springs,
• wire mesh or
• solid ply/wood base or slatted base.
This is held in a rectangular metal or wooden framework. The coiled springs or wire mesh may be padded and covered with ticking, or PVC for easier cleaning.
The open coil base may be upholstered (covered with stuffing and then covered). The wooden framework may either surround approximately half the height of the coiled springs giving a sprung edge, or the whole height when it gives a firm edge. A firm edge helps to prevent the springs sagging when the bed is sat on.
When the base is not upholstered there should be an underlay of strong material, such as hessian or canvas, placed on top of the springs to protect the mattress from abrasion and for appearance the base may be surrounded by a valance. In some solid ply or slatted bases, the mattress is 'dropped' in and held in place. This type of base keeps a tidier appearance and also prevents damage to the edge of the bed when it is sat on. However, it does make bedmaking more difficult.
In some there are drawers or other storage space and these are useful in long-stay establishments.
Headboards
Divans usually have the headboards attached to the wall and the bed is pushed against it, while in hostels and similar establishments, where residents like to rearrange the furniture, the headboard is attached to the divan. The headboard must be sufficiently high(40-45 cm above the top of the mattress) to protect the wall from soiling when guests sit up in bed. It may be made in different shapes and different materials but should be easy to keep clean and may incorporate a bedside table, light switches and maybe a telephone.
Bed legs
The feet of any bed should be such that they will neither scratch a polished surface, nor damage a carpet by cutting or badly flattening it, nor move too readily when the guest is in bed. Suitable castors should therefore be fixed, such as small wheels which may lock..
In hospitals metal bedsteads are usual and they may be PVC coated. The headboard is normally adjustable to give a back rest for greater comfort and there may be mechanisms to raise the foot of the bed, or to enable the bed to be raised for making and clinical procedures, or to be lowered so that the patient may get in and out of it more easily.
Mattresses
In the past mattresses were stuffed and filled with hair, wool or flock; but good hair is expensive, flock is cheap but becomes lumpy, and all stuffed mattresses are absorbent and liable to be attacked by moth and other pest. Kapok and coir are other variants. They require frequent turning when in use and remaking every few years and thus these mattresses have in many places been replaced by the interior sprung, latex or plastic foam ones.
Spring Interior: There are two types: Open coil and Pocketed. Open coil type has rows of springs are held together by vertically opposed spiral wires with a perimeter frame. Pocketed type spring mattresses have barrel shaped springs and each spring is enclosed in calico or synthetic fabric. These enclosed springs are held together by clips or twine. Pocketed type spring mattresses give extra comfort and durability, though they are more expensive.
Interior sprung mattresses should have reinforced edge for added strength. They vary in depth (12-22 cm approx), quality and price, according to the number and gauge of springs, type of padding and quality of covering. To keep them in good condition they should be turned occasionally to even the wear. There are normally eyelet holes to allow circulation of air and handles on the sides of the mattress to assist in turning. Interior sprung mattresses are heavy, absorbent and liable to attack by moth and other pests, but are comfortable and will last for many years.
Foam mattress: Rubber mattresses are normally made from latex foam or polyether foam or a combination of the two. The latex, which has previously been treated with a chemical setting agent, is poured into heated moulds where it is shaped, set and vulcanized, without losing any of its tiny air cells. The mattress may be about 10 cm deep, and it normally has a right and wrong side due to the shape of the mould and so should not be turned
Foam mattresses are cheaper than spring mattresses. They are ideal for people with allergies as they do not accumulate dust.
Foam mattress can be layered or can be a combination of foam and spring.
There is a danger that when foam rubber and some foam plastic mattresses catch fire they produce fumes which are toxic and although they may be treated, this adds considerably to the price.
Extra Beds
Requests can also be received for extra beds, which are of two main types, i.e., zed-beds and sofa beds; but as foldaway beds are also a type of extra bed, they will be considered here too.
Zed-beds have a base of stretched springs which can be folded up into a narrow rectangular shape, enclosing a thin mattress. They can be easily moved and stored.
Extra beds which remain in the room without taking up space may be stowed away under beds or may be put against a wall, giving the impression of a cupboard.(Murphy bed or wall bed cupboard unit).
Sofa beds provide extra seating by day and a bed by night. A wooden slatted base combined with an interior sprung mattress is the most satisfactory type, as a wire mesh base tends to sag after prolonged use. Wooden slats can be replaced if they break. A fitted sheet may remain on the mattress but blankets or duvet and pillows have to be stored in a cupboard.
Care and cleaning of beds
1. Check for loose headboards
2. Check divan legs screwed in tightly.
3. Check mattress does not sag and buttons or other trufting are not missing.
4. Check for soiling and tears in ticking.
5. Turn interior sprung mattresses occasionally, both sides and top to bottom to ensure even wear
6. Use underlays on bases of open spring type
7. Supply waterproof sheet for young children and other necessary occasions.
8. Fit base covers or valances where bases not covered with PVC
9. Dust or brush open wire springs occasionally and wipe plastic and rubber foam mattresses when required with a damp cloth
10. Have valances and base covers laundered or dry cleaned when necessary.
Pillows
Pillows consist of various fillings, covered with a strong closely woven material, ticking, which was formerly striped and is now more often white. The most usual size is 48 X 73 cm. They may be filled with:
• Kapok: can become lumpy after sometime and needs disentangling of the fibres and refilling.
• Down: which comes from the breast of the duck, is expensive and very comfortable, but is liable to attack by moth. Small feathers, which are less expensive and less soft than down can be used. They give a very satisfactory pillow but, like down, are attacked by moth.
• Foam: The comments given for the mattresses also apply to pillows. However, many people find them too resilient for comfort.
• Synthetic fibres, eg polyester, which are bulked to give a soft handle, are expensive, moth proof and extremely comfortable. They are less resilient than the foam ones and are used in hospitals.
Care and cleaning of pillows
1. Shake feather pillows daily
2. Repair splits or tears in the ticking immediately
3. Protect with an under pillowslip
4. Have dry cleaned or laundered if necessary, with the exception of rubber and plastic foam which may be wiped clean.
Bolsters, Cushions
Bolsters are elongated pillows which stretch the width of the bed. They form an underpillow, and as the head does not rest on them directly, they may be filled with a less resilient filling than pillows. Cushions are normally thrown around on beds and sofas for additional aesthetics and comfort.
6.7.4. Materials and finishes used for furniture
Wood: is the traditional and oldest material for furniture, and pieces dating as far back as 1500 still survive. Older furniture are made from solid hardwood like teak, mahogany, rosewood, oak, walnut. Solid wood is not always the most suitable material for a particular piece, or part of a piece, of furniture, and plywood or laminated wood often meets the requirements of modern furniture better.
Plywood : is made by bonding together an odd number of thin slices or plies of wood, 1-2 mm thick, so that the grain of one ply is at right angles to that of either side of it and, since there is an odd number of plies, the grain of the two outside ones run in the same direction. Plywood is strong in both direction whereas solid wood is strongest in the direction of the grain. Plywood is frequently used for table tops, eg 7 or 9 ply, where stability is required. Curved and shaped parts of furniture can be preformed thus eliminating much nailing and glueing. Both solid wood and plywood may have decorative veneers on the surface
Veneers: are cut from barks of trees by thinly slicing a continuous piece from the bark. The veneer is stuck to a plywood by glue to give the appearance of solid wood.
Maintenance of wood.
As wood is extremely absorbent it requires some protective finish to prevent it absorbing moisture, grease and dirt and to make cleaning easier. There are several protective finishes which may be given to complete the wood ( ie. whether it has a high gloss, dull gloss or matt appearance), its resistance to abrasion and the ease with which it can be cleaned. Wood may be coated with paint when the natural appearance of the wood, ie grain, colour, texture, is lost; hence never done on expensive wood. Paint provides a non-absorbent, easily cleaned finish in a wide range of colours, but it is easily scratched and has a poor resistance to heat. It is maintained by dusting, wiping with a damp cloth, or washing when necessary, avoiding the use of strong alkalis and coarse abrasives.
1. Avoid scratching and knocking
2. Wipe all spills as soon as possible
3. Treat stains as soon as possible (these are often produced as a result of spills not being wiped up quickly enough)
4. Protect tops of dressing tables, coffee tables etc, with glass
5. Examine for woodworm and treat accordingly
6. clean regularly
a) Dust daily, rubbing well to improve appearance
b) If necessary, remove any stickiness or finger marks with a damp cloth wrung out of warm water and synthetic detergent, or water and vinegar (one tablespoon to a litre of water)
c) Periodically apply a suitable polish but not to a matt finish or it will lose its appearance and become glossy.
Furniture may be stained, painted, or lacquered to add color, and most pieces are treated with a final protective finish. The gloss and depth of a finish is a matter of personal preference, but the finish should always be strong enough to resist moisture. Inexpensive furniture will simply be coated with a layer of polyurethane. Fine furniture goes through a series of finishing steps (often more than 20) that include sanding, glazing, waxing, and hand buffing. Whatever the finish, check to make sure the surface is hard, smooth, and even; beware of uneven coloration, bubbles, pockmarks, or cracks.
Wicker and cane furniture
Unless well maintained it is liable to get out of shape, and pieces of wicker can protrude and catch on clothes. Both wickerwork and cane can become extremely dusty and shabby looking, if not well looked after.
1. Examine for broken and protruding pieces of wicker and cane and treat accordingly.
2. Clean regularly:
a) dust daily and use suction cleaner occasionally
b) Wickerwork: periodically wash, using a cloth or soft nail brush, warm water and synthetic detergent, avoid using a great deal of water. Rinse and dry thoroughly. Polish with a liquid wax furniture polish.
Cane: periodically wash. Rinse with cold salt water and dry thoroughly.
Outdoor furniture:
Porches, patios and decks have become part of everyday living.. Wood, aluminium, plastic, wrought iron-there are materials which could be used. The type of weathering the furniture undergoes will influence your choice. Sea air corrodes iron, for instance, extreme cold can crack some plastics. If storage space is limited, consider folding or stacked furniture, or furniture that can be disassembled.
Iron
Iron (Steel is actually used these days) comes in two forms, wrought and cast. Cast iron- iron that is poured into a mold- is often used for accent pieces, such as garden benches or chairs, usually in an antique style. Much more common is wrought iron, made by welding bent rods of steel together.
Wrought iron has several advantages. It is less expensive than aluminum of the same weight and quality, and comes in contemporary and traditional styles. Given reasonable care, wrought iron will last for years- you can repaint it yourself if it begins to show signs of age. Iron will weather eventually, but many people like this natural "antiquing". Wrought iron is a heavy material, which can be an advantage in a windy location. It is not recommended for oceanside, however, where salt air will rust the metal. Unprotected feet can leave rust spots which can be alleviated with protective plastic cups.
Aluminum
Aluminum doesn't rust or corrode, and weighs less than iron. Seats and backs on aluminum chairs are formed with plastic webbing, plastic strapping or mesh sling made of stretched plastic coated fabric.. Plastic webbing can fray, but plastic strapping is tough and durable; if a strap should break, it can be repaired or replaced. Increasingly popular is the mesh sling, it is more comfortable than straps and has a stylishly contemporary look. Both straps and mesh are often used in conjunction with cushions.
Plastic
Low-cost, low-maintenance plastic has become a popular material for outdoor furniture in recent years. The two most common types are
PVC (pipe furniture)
Resin furniture.
The biggest enemy of plastic is sunlight, which can cause the plastic to chalk, fade, and eventually deteriorate. Very cold temperatures can also make plastic brittle. However, most plastic outdoor furniture contains UV inhibitors that block out harmful ultraviolet rays and prolong the life of the plastic.
Antiques
Although an antique is generally defined as any object more than 100 years old, not every old piece is valuable. A piece with a known maker and date, fine design, original hardware and surface finish, and no damage or repairs will be more valuable and expensive than a piece without such desirable feature. Buyers should also be wary of cleverly "aged" reproductions being sold as originals, and "marriages" between two separate pieces that did not belong together, such as a chest surmounted by a bookcase to create a secretary.
One way to make sure you acquire high-quality antique furniture is to buy from reputable shops run by professionals. Even experts make mistakes. Flea markets and garage sales are a casual, inexpensive way to pick up furnishings.
6.7.5. Joining Methods
There are five principal methods of putting furniture together; staples, nails, screws, joints, and glue. Most pieces use more than one method. Look for the strongest construction where a piece will bear the most weight or receive the most stress(legs, shelf braces, drawers). Joints are the places where one component in a piece of furniture fits into another. These joints are often reinforced by glue; synthetic glues are the most durable.
Where joints are impractical, screws are the best fasteners; they should be secure and screwed in all the way. Staples are used only on budget furniture and are inappropriate for joining pieces that bear weight or undergo stress. Nails are stronger than staples, but not as strong as other joining methods. A good joint can make all the difference in the life span of furniture.
The different types are
1. Butt joints, in which two pieces are simply joined together where they abut, are weak joints. They can work in some places, but not in places subject to stress or weight.
2. Miter joints are used at the corners of tables, reinforced with dowels, nails, screws, or a spline.
3. Tongue-and-groove joinery is used to join two boards together side by side, as in a tabletop
4. Dovetail joints are found joining drawer sides. Dovetails should fit together smoothly. Avoid pieces in which the dovetails are cracked or seem too small.
5. Double-dowel joints use two dowels to peg the joint together. A sturdy joint, it is used to create the framing for case goods or to attach legs to side rails of chairs.
6. Mortice and tenon is the strongest method of joining pieces of wood at right angles. The end of one piece of wood is shaped to fit into a hole in the other. This construction distributes stress over a wide area.
At points of special strain - like the corner of chairs or tables- look underneath for corner blocks that are screwed in place. They provide extra support.
6.7.6. Quick Checks For Quality
Different standards of quality apply at different price levels. No matter what your budget, you will learn a lot about a piece through these quick checks:
Cabinets, Wardrobes:
• Check the edges of doors to see if veneers or laminates have been used, and how well laminates are joined to the base material. Operate the doors to make sure they work smoothly; push down firmly on the open door: The hinges should be strong enough to prevent sagging.
• Drawers should fit well, with no more than 1/4 inch of "play" from side to side. Better pieces have center or side glides and drawer stops, and the bottoms are held by grooves, not staples or nails. The insides of drawers are smooth and sealed. Better pieces also have dovetail joints at all four corners. Examine the fit of these joints carefully; dovetails are a good measure of overall quality.
• Back panels: In better furniture, the back panel is finished, set and screwed into the frame.
Sofas, chairs:
• In upholstered furniture, it is what is inside that counts. Because you cannot see inside, you will have to garner information from tags, salespeople, and manufacturers' catalogs.
• Most upholstered furniture begins with a wooden frame. A good-quality wood frame joined by dowels and interlocking pieces, rather than butted together.
• Corner blocks are cut to fit, and screwed and glued into position.
• Legs should be a continuation of the back or front frame, or should be locked into the frame with heavy duty joining techniques. Be wary of legs screwed into the frame or screwed into metal plates joined to the frame.
• Attached to the frame are the springs. Springs support the sitter and help give a piece shape; saggy springs make sorry-looking furniture.
• Springs usually are girded by webbing. The webbing should be close and smooth, without big gaps between straps.
• Strong and resilient, polyurethane foam is now the most widely used filling for lift-out seat and back cushions. Because it is fairly firm, it is most comfortable when wrapped with another material, such as down or polyester batting. The lighter the foam, the better the quality.
• The type of coverings used on upholstery is also a main consideration for quality
.
Test-Drive A Chair
➢ Sit in it: Firmness or softness is a matter of personal taste, but no matter how cushy it is, a chair should give you support and feel good. You should not be able to feel individual springs or hard frame edges. The filling should be even and free of lumps.
➢ Lean on it: It should feel solid, without wobbling or swaying. Lean back into the chair and bounce on the seat to be sure the frame feel secure.
➢ Lift it: Pick one end of the piece. Creaks or squeaks can tip you off to a frame made of wood that has been improperly dried, or corner joints that are merely nailed or screwed together. Pat the underside of the chair. A hollow drumlike sound indicates tight coils and webbing. Signs of poor quality include excess glue, raveled fabric edges, and rough lumber.
➢ Look it over: Check tailoring quality. Look for straight, neatly sewn welts, with no puckering or loose threads. Pull the seams gently to see if the stitches are tight. Skirts should be lined, hang straight, and have crisp corners. Patterns should be carefully matched, and trims should be securely attached.
Common points to check for are:
✓ be free from rough, unfinished edges or surfaces
✓ be free from surplus adhesive
✓ have the correct type of joints which fit well
✓ stand firm on the floor and be rigid in use
✓ if a cupboard or wardrobe, be stable and balanced whether empty or full, have drawers which run smoothly,
✓ have doors which fit properly and have stays to prevent them opening too far,
✓ have sliding doors which run smoothly
✓ have efficient locks, catches, hinges etc
✓ have handles conveniently placed, comfortable to hold and free from sharp edges,
✓ have castors with no sharp edges.
✓ have lipping, beading done with sufficient care for veneers
Wooden furniture must be checked before the application of polish.
6.7.7. Terms to know:
1. Collection: A manufacturer's grouping of furniture pieces. Although furniture usually is displayed in collections, you need not buy it that way.
2. Reproductions: Exact copies of fine antiques, usually made with the same materials and details as originals. " Visual reproductions" use modern short cuts to hold down costs or add modern convenience.
3. Adaptations: Loosely based on originals. Tag may say "based on", "adapted from", or "in the style of "
4. Sectionals: Upholstered pieces made in section that fit together in a set configuration.
5. Modular: Fully upholstered seating component such as armless chairs, one-arm chairs, and corner pieces that may be used in many configurations.
6. COM: Custom-Ordered Material. Manufacturers may offer you a choice of COM fabrics when you buy an upholstered piece or let you supply your own
7. Apartment-size furniture: Smaller-size upholstered pieces and case goods.
8. RTA: Affordable, ready-to-assemble furniture that can be carried home immediately.
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Leather is an alternative to a fabric covering. Strong and durable, leather-with reasonable care- can last up to four times as long as fabric. Leather comes in a whole range of colours, and new soil-resistant finishes also make it more practical for everyday use. Leather may be glazed or aniline dyed. Shiny, stiff leather sometimes seen on traditional furnishings, may crack with wear. Aniline-dyed leather is almost as soft as fabric, so it will not crack. However, it is more susceptible to stains than coated leather.
Leather grading is based on such factors as softness, blemishes, and color. All leather is equally tough, although some grades are more porous than others. Top-grain leather is leather that has been treated only for color and stain resistance; it has not been split or sanded to remove blemishes.
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