FURNITURE



INSTITUTE OF HOTEL MANAGEMENT & CATERING TECHNOLOGY, TRIVANDRUM

ACCOMMODATION MANAGEMENT– TYB.Sc.H&HA (BHM304) 2009-2010

6. 7 INTERIOR DECORATION - FURNITURE

In any establishment, furniture covers a wide variety of different items which will be in constant use and yet should retain their overall  good appearance. People are seldom as careful of other people’s property as they are of their own and the  handling  of furniture by large numbers of people results in harder use  than if one person was using it all the time.

Hence it is very necessary to choose the right type of furniture keeping in mind the kind of use it has to undergo.

Chapter Outline:

6.7.1 Points to be considered while choosing furniture

6.7.2 Types of furniture

Free standing, Built-in, Fitted

3. Requirements for furniture

Tables, Chairs and upholstered furniture, Wardrobes, Beds & Bed bases, Mattresses, Pillows, Bolsters and Cushions

4. Materials and finishes used for furniture

Wood, Plywood, Veneer, Wicker, Cane,

Outdoor furniture - Wrought Iron, Aluminium, Plastic,

Antique

5. Joining Methods

6. Quality check

7. Terms to know

Objectives:

At the end of this topic, you must be able to:

1. List the points to be considered while choosing furniture

2. List the different types of furniture and their specifications.

3. Discuss the different types of materials and finishes used for furniture.

4. Identify different joining methods and suggest appropriate joints.

5. Check and evaluate quality of furniture.

6. Explain common terms used in furniture.

6.7.1 Points to be considered while choosing furniture:

Furniture must be practical in design and size.

1. Comfort: The shape and size of article in  relation  to the human body is paramount to comfort and this science is called ergonomics. Examples : The width of the seat and the shape of the back of the chair are important to its

comfort. The height of the table and the chair in relation to each other, the height and depth of  the wardrobe and the length and width of the bed are other  examples.

2. Serviceability: will also depend  on design; shelves are probably more serviceable  in the bedroom  than drawers, and `built-in' furniture can  save  space, labour, floor and wall coverings.

3. Durability: The furniture must be sturdy to withstand considerable wear and tear as it will be handled by a large number of people.

4. Easy to clean and maintain: As far as possible, the design of furniture should be simple for ease of cleaning. Carvings, crevices, ledges etc. can be dust traps which have to be cleaned regularly. A piece of furniture should have a gap of atleast 25 cms from the floor for ease of cleaning. Castors can facilitate the moving of heavy furniture. Many sofas now have removable, washable covers which can ease cleaning. Shelves instead of drawers, drawers  with  wipe-easy surfaces ,use of  self-shine  protective coatings can ease cleaning and maintenance. This is of importance in all establishments but especially so when there is the possibility of a quick turn round of  rooms,  i.e.,  a large number of departures in one  day and in  establishments in the medium and lower price range where maids may  be expected to service more rooms.

5. Versatility and movability: Items may be moved from room to room as required if castors are fitted on to heavier items.   A dressing table/writing table may satisfy the woman who on  holiday  has more time to 'make up'  leisurely  and  the business person who has reports to write. More clothes  storage space  is required by the holiday maker than  by  the  business person  staying  one or two nights, so a fitment  which  combines hanging and shelf space can provide sufficient space and a neater piece of furniture than separate wardrobe and chest of drawers. Flexibility  and movability of furniture may be required  in some places to enable the rooms to be put to different uses. It may be necessary at certain times for guests'  rooms  in hotels  to  have  extra beds or cots put in, or  rearranged  for luncheons,  exhibitions, or as syndicate rooms  for  conferences.

6. Style- The atmosphere to be achieved will also affect the design. For example: modern, 'old world'...The style of any piece of furniture must go with the rest, though  it will  not necessarily be of similar design. Chairs for  dressing tables should be chosen with the particular dressing  table/writing table in mind and any chair in the bedroom of a medium price hotel may not necessarily be suitable for a luxury hotel and vice versa.  It may be an advantage to have a variety of easy  chairs in  a  lounge,  some with higher seats, or lower  arms,  or  with wings,  but each should be in keeping with its fellows, and  none should look as though it had arrived there by accident.

7. Price: The price must be within the means of the establishment.

6.7.2. Types of furniture

There are four types of furniture - Free-standing, Cantilevered, Built-in and Fitted.

Free-standing: chairs , beds, etc. This type of furniture can be rearranged whenever necessary. However it accumulates dust behind above and beneath.

Cantilevered: Cantilevered furniture is fixed on brackets to the wall and hence there are no legs to get in the way of cleaning.

Built-in: wardrobes, cabinets etc. Usually the cost is incorporated into the building cost. If required, it can be installed later, but can work out more expensive. Since built-in furniture have no gaps, cleaning is minimized.

However, once built in, the item cannot be moved, which can be a disadvantage in long-stay rooms like hostels and residential apartments where guest like to rearrange furniture.

Fitted: shelves, cupboards. Though built-in and fitted mean almost the same, fitted furniture are made to fit existing alcoves and niches, thereby saving space. The room appears more spacious and streamlined.

6.7. 3. Requirements for furniture

Tables.

• Consider the primary use of the table – is it for dining or working, for a lounge or a bedroom? Each area will have different requirements.

• The table top surface must be easily maintained, heat and stain resistant.

• The shape of the table must be considered. Round tables allow guests to sit in a more informal manner.

• Glass topped tables must be avoided in commercial establishments. They are difficult to maintain and may be dangerous.

• In conference areas, foldable and easily stackable light weight tables must be used. It is also possible to obtain leg frames which allow various shapes and sizes.

• The height for writing tables, above the chair seat, should have atleast 30cm ; this  allows for knee clearance. The height of the table from  the floor  is therefore 70-84 cm; coffee table 35-50 cm high.

Chairs, Upholstered furniture – arm chairs and sofas

Backs  should  be high enough to support the whole of  the  occupant's  back. Seats should be long and wide enough to relax  the thighs  and knees. Depth of chair seat is related to the  height of  the chair, eg. armchair 33-38 cm high seat, depth  could  be 60-70 cm. Upright chair 42-45 cm high seat, depth could be  42-50 cm.  An  armchair should have a minimum width of 48  cm,  a  wing chair  of 56 cm between wings. The gap between the back and  the seat of an upright chair should be 20 cm high and backrest 20 cm, so  that  the top of chair is 40 cm above seat, the  gap  enables easier cleaning. If there are arms on the chair they should not protrude more than 25mm further than the front of the chair. Chairs meant for conferences must be easily stackable, have clips fitted on to the legs of the chairs or on to the backs to enable the chairs to fit together for easy assembling in rows. Chairs for use with tables should have atleast 30cm gap between the table and the chair for ease of sitting.

Upholstered furniture like sofas and armchairs has a framework of wood across which tension  springs  are fixed. A simple lightweight chair will have removable seats and backs made of plastic or rubber  foam cut to the size and shape of the chair  and covered with  the upholstery material which are provided with zips and hence easily removable. The heavier ones have another framework covering the springs, which in turn is covered with webbing, hessain and stuffing covered with upholstery material which is usually fixed on to the sofas. The main areas of wear are arm rests, headrests and the seat. Throw overs are usually provided to protect the arm and head rests. how-wood tips also prevent  upholstered arms from getting quite so dirty.

Wardrobes

The type of guests and their length of stay must be considered before choosing a wardrobe. Wardrobe may be built-in or free standing. If free standing, the legs must be shoed to protect the carpet. A light inside the wardrobe is usually appreciated.

There  should  be a 60 cm minimum hanging space in a  single  wardrobe; 90 cm minimum hanging space in a double wardrobe; 56-60  cm depth  to prevent rubbing of clothes when hanging. The height  to accommodate  full length dresses is 175 cm; a man's wardrobe  may be  150 cm with 25 cm shelf for hats. The space above 200  cm is too  high  to be used conveniently. The hanging rail  should  be firmly fixed and not too close to the top, firm enough for  heavy coats but not too thick for coat hanger hooks.

Beds

When  guests  stay in an establishment, they are  naturally  concerned  with  sleeping and the comfort of the beds is  of  great importance. The beds must not only be comfortable but must  look inviting, and this will depend on the design, the materials  from which  they are made, and the neatly finished appearance  of  the beds in the room. Standard sizes of single and double beds are:

3 ft X 6 ft 6in : single

5 ft X 6ft 6 in : double queen

6 ft X 6 ft 6 in: double king

The height of the bed is not only important to the appearance  of the room but also to the ease with which an elderly guest can get in or out of it and the ease with which it can be made. With the tendency for hotel rooms to be smaller than in the  past the  bed  should not be so dominant that the room  appears  still smaller,  so in many establishments divans are used  instead  of bedsteads.  

Bed bases:

A  bed consists of a mattress supported by a base. The base  may be made of

• open coiled springs,

• wire mesh or

• solid ply/wood base or slatted base.

This is held in a rectangular metal or wooden framework. The  coiled springs or wire mesh may be padded and covered with ticking, or PVC for easier cleaning.  

The open coil base may be upholstered (covered with stuffing and then covered). The wooden framework  may either  surround approximately half the height  of  the  coiled springs giving a sprung edge, or the whole height when it gives a firm  edge. A firm edge helps to prevent the springs sagging  when  the bed is sat on.

When  the base is not upholstered there should be an underlay  of strong material, such as hessian or canvas, placed on top of  the springs to protect the mattress from abrasion and for  appearance the  base  may be surrounded by a valance. In some solid ply or slatted bases, the mattress is 'dropped' in and  held in place. This type of base keeps a tidier  appearance and  also prevents damage to the edge of the bed when it  is  sat on. However, it does make bedmaking more difficult.

In some there are drawers or other storage space and these are useful in long-stay establishments.

Headboards

Divans  usually have the headboards attached  to  the wall  and the  bed is pushed against it, while  in  hostels  and similar  establishments,  where residents like to  rearrange  the furniture, the headboard is attached to the divan. The headboard must be sufficiently high(40-45 cm above the top of the mattress) to protect the wall from soiling when guests sit up in bed. It may be made in different shapes and different materials  but should be easy to keep clean and may incorporate a  bedside table, light switches and maybe a telephone.

Bed legs

The feet of any bed  should  be such that they will neither  scratch  a  polished surface,  nor damage a carpet by cutting or badly flattening  it, nor move too readily when the guest is in bed. Suitable  castors should  therefore be fixed, such as small wheels which may  lock..

In hospitals metal bedsteads are usual and they may be PVC  coated. The headboard is normally adjustable to give a back rest for greater comfort and there may be mechanisms to raise the foot  of the bed, or to enable the bed to be raised for making and  clinical procedures, or to be lowered so that the patient may get  in and out of it more easily.

Mattresses

In the past mattresses were stuffed and filled with hair, wool or flock;  but  good hair is expensive, flock is cheap  but  becomes lumpy, and all stuffed mattresses are absorbent and liable to  be attacked  by moth and other pest. Kapok and coir are other  variants. They require frequent turning when in  use  and  remaking every  few  years and thus these mattresses have in  many  places been replaced by the interior sprung, latex or plastic foam ones.

Spring Interior: There are two types: Open coil and Pocketed. Open coil type has rows of springs are held together by vertically opposed spiral wires with a perimeter frame. Pocketed type spring mattresses have barrel shaped springs and each spring is enclosed in calico or synthetic fabric. These enclosed springs are held together by clips or twine. Pocketed type spring mattresses give extra comfort and durability, though they are more expensive.

Interior sprung mattresses should have reinforced edge for  added strength.  They  vary in depth (12-22 cm  approx),  quality  and price,  according  to the number and gauge of springs,  type  of padding and quality of covering. To keep them in good  condition they should be turned occasionally to even the wear. There  are normally  eyelet holes to allow circulation of air and handles on the sides of the  mattress to assist in turning. Interior sprung mattresses are heavy, absorbent  and liable  to attack by moth and other pests, but are  comfortable and will last for many years.

Foam mattress: Rubber mattresses are normally made from latex foam or polyether foam or a combination of the two. The  latex, which has previously been treated with a chemical setting  agent, is poured into heated moulds where it is shaped, set and  vulcanized, without losing any of its tiny air cells. The mattress may be  about 10 cm deep, and it normally has a right and wrong  side due to the shape of the mould and so should not be turned

Foam mattresses are cheaper than spring mattresses. They are ideal for people with allergies as they do not accumulate dust.

Foam mattress can be layered or can be a combination of foam and spring.

There  is  a danger that when foam rubber and some  foam  plastic mattresses  catch  fire they produce fumes which  are  toxic  and although  they  may  be treated, this adds considerably  to  the price.

Extra Beds

Requests  can also be received for extra beds, which are  of  two main  types, i.e., zed-beds and sofa beds; but as  foldaway  beds are also a type of extra bed, they will be considered here too.

Zed-beds have a base of stretched springs which can be folded  up into a narrow rectangular shape, enclosing a thin mattress. They can be easily moved and stored.

Extra  beds which remain in the room without taking up space  may be  stowed away under beds or may be put against a  wall,  giving the  impression  of a cupboard.(Murphy bed or wall  bed  cupboard unit).

Sofa  beds  provide extra seating by day and a bed by  night.  A wooden slatted base combined with an interior sprung mattress  is the  most  satisfactory type, as a wire mesh base  tends  to  sag after prolonged use. Wooden slats can be replaced if they break. A fitted sheet may remain on the mattress but blankets or  duvet and pillows have to be stored in a cupboard.

Care and cleaning of beds

1. Check for loose headboards

2. Check divan legs screwed in tightly.

3. Check  mattress does not sag and buttons or  other  trufting are not missing.

4. Check for soiling and tears in ticking.

5. Turn interior sprung mattresses occasionally, both sides and top to bottom to ensure even wear

6. Use underlays on bases of open spring type

7. Supply waterproof sheet for young children and other  necessary occasions.

8. Fit base covers or valances where bases not covered with PVC

9. Dust or brush open wire springs occasionally and wipe  plastic and rubber foam mattresses when required with a damp cloth

10. Have valances and base covers laundered or dry cleaned  when necessary.

Pillows

Pillows consist of various fillings, covered with a strong closely woven material, ticking, which was formerly striped and is now more often white. The most usual size is 48 X 73 cm. They may be filled with:

• Kapok: can become lumpy after sometime and needs disentangling of the fibres and refilling.

• Down:  which comes from the breast of the duck, is expensive  and very comfortable, but is liable to attack by moth. Small feathers, which are less expensive and less soft than down can be used. They give a very satisfactory pillow but, like down, are attacked by moth.

• Foam: The comments given for the mattresses also apply to pillows. However, many people find them too resilient for comfort.

• Synthetic  fibres, eg polyester, which are bulked to give a  soft handle,  are  expensive, moth proof  and  extremely  comfortable. They are less resilient than the foam ones and are used in hospitals.

Care and cleaning of pillows

1. Shake feather pillows daily

2. Repair splits or tears in the ticking immediately

3. Protect with an under pillowslip

4. Have dry cleaned or laundered if necessary, with the  exception of rubber and plastic foam which may be wiped clean.

Bolsters, Cushions

Bolsters  are  elongated pillows which stretch the width  of  the bed. They form an underpillow, and as the head does not rest  on them  directly, they may be filled with a less resilient  filling than pillows. Cushions are normally thrown around on beds and sofas for additional aesthetics and comfort.

6.7.4. Materials and finishes used for furniture

Wood:  is the traditional and oldest material for  furniture,  and pieces dating as far back as 1500 still survive. Older furniture are made from solid hardwood like teak, mahogany, rosewood,  oak, walnut. Solid wood is not always the most suitable material for a particular  piece,  or part of a piece, of furniture,  and  plywood or laminated  wood often meets the requirements of modern  furniture better.

Plywood : is made by bonding together an odd number of thin  slices or  plies of wood, 1-2 mm thick, so that the grain of one ply  is at  right angles to that of either side of it and, since there  is an odd number of plies, the grain of the two outside ones run  in the  same direction. Plywood is strong in both direction  whereas solid wood is strongest in the direction of the grain. Plywood is frequently used for table tops, eg 7 or 9 ply, where stability is required.  Curved and shaped parts of furniture can be  preformed thus eliminating much nailing and glueing. Both solid wood  and plywood may have decorative veneers on the surface

Veneers: are cut from barks of trees by thinly slicing a continuous piece from the bark. The veneer is stuck to a plywood by glue to give the appearance of solid wood.

Maintenance of wood.

As wood is extremely absorbent it requires some protective finish to  prevent  it absorbing moisture, grease and dirt and  to  make cleaning easier. There  are  several  protective finishes which may  be  given  to complete  the wood ( ie. whether it has a high gloss, dull gloss or matt appearance), its resistance to abrasion and the ease with which it can be cleaned. Wood may be coated with paint when the natural appearance of  the wood,  ie grain, colour, texture, is lost; hence never  done  on expensive  wood. Paint provides a non-absorbent,  easily  cleaned finish in a wide range of colours, but it is easily scratched and has  a  poor  resistance to heat. It is  maintained  by  dusting, wiping with a damp cloth, or washing when necessary, avoiding the use of strong alkalis and coarse abrasives.

1. Avoid scratching and knocking

2. Wipe all spills as soon as possible

3. Treat  stains as soon as possible (these are often  produced as a result of spills not being wiped up quickly enough)

4. Protect  tops  of dressing tables, coffee tables  etc,  with glass

5. Examine for woodworm and treat accordingly

6. clean regularly

a) Dust daily, rubbing well to improve appearance

b) If necessary, remove any stickiness or finger marks with a damp  cloth wrung out of warm water and synthetic  detergent,  or water and vinegar (one tablespoon to a litre of water)

c) Periodically apply a suitable polish but not to  a  matt finish or it will lose its appearance and become glossy.

Furniture may be stained, painted, or lacquered to add color, and most  pieces  are treated with a final  protective  finish.  The gloss  and depth of a finish is a matter of personal preference, but the finish should always be strong enough to resist moisture. Inexpensive  furniture  will  simply be coated with  a  layer  of polyurethane. Fine furniture goes through a series of  finishing steps (often more than 20) that include sanding, glazing, waxing, and  hand buffing. Whatever the finish, check to make sure  the surface  is hard, smooth, and even; beware of uneven  coloration, bubbles, pockmarks, or cracks.

Wicker and cane furniture

Unless  well  maintained it is liable to get out  of  shape,  and pieces of wicker can protrude and catch on clothes. Both  wickerwork and cane can become extremely dusty  and  shabby looking, if not well looked after.

1. Examine for broken and protruding pieces of wicker and  cane and treat accordingly.

2. Clean regularly:

a) dust daily and use suction cleaner occasionally

b) Wickerwork: periodically wash, using a cloth or soft nail brush,  warm water and synthetic detergent, avoid using  a  great deal  of water. Rinse and dry thoroughly. Polish with a  liquid wax furniture polish.

Cane:  periodically  wash. Rinse with cold salt  water  and  dry thoroughly.

Outdoor furniture:

Porches,  patios and decks have become part of  everyday  living.. Wood, aluminium, plastic, wrought  iron-there are materials which could be used. The type of weathering  the furniture undergoes will influence  your  choice. Sea air corrodes iron, for instance, extreme cold can crack  some plastics. If  storage space is limited, consider folding or stacked furniture, or furniture that can be disassembled.

Iron

Iron  (Steel  is actually used these days) comes  in  two  forms, wrought and cast. Cast iron- iron that is poured into a mold- is often  used for accent pieces, such as garden benches or chairs, usually  in an antique style. Much more common is  wrought  iron, made by welding bent rods of steel together.

Wrought  iron has several advantages. It is less expensive  than aluminum  of the same weight and quality, and comes in  contemporary and traditional styles. Given reasonable care, wrought  iron will last for years- you can repaint it yourself if it begins  to show signs of age. Iron will weather eventually, but many people like this natural "antiquing". Wrought iron is a heavy material, which can be an advantage in  a windy  location. It is not recommended for  oceanside,  however, where salt air will rust the metal. Unprotected feet can leave  rust spots which can be alleviated  with  protective plastic cups.

Aluminum

Aluminum doesn't rust or  corrode, and weighs less than iron. Seats  and backs on aluminum chairs are formed with plastic webbing, plastic strapping or mesh sling made of stretched plastic coated fabric.. Plastic webbing can fray, but plastic strapping is tough and durable; if a  strap  should break,  it can be repaired or replaced. Increasingly popular is the mesh sling, it is more comfortable than  straps and has a stylishly contemporary look. Both straps and mesh are often used in conjunction with cushions.

Plastic

Low-cost,  low-maintenance plastic has become a popular  material for outdoor furniture in recent years. The two most common types are

PVC (pipe furniture)

Resin furniture.

The  biggest  enemy of plastic is sunlight, which can  cause  the plastic  to  chalk, fade, and eventually  deteriorate. Very cold temperatures can also make plastic brittle. However, most plastic outdoor furniture contains UV inhibitors that  block out harmful ultraviolet rays and prolong the life of the plastic.

Antiques

Although an antique is generally defined as any object more  than 100  years old, not every old piece is valuable. A piece with  a known maker and date, fine design, original hardware and  surface finish, and no damage or repairs will be more valuable and expensive than a piece without such desirable feature. Buyers  should also  be  wary  of cleverly "aged" reproductions  being  sold  as originals,  and "marriages" between two separate pieces that did not belong together, such as a chest surmounted by a bookcase  to create a secretary.

One  way to make sure you acquire high-quality antique  furniture is  to buy from reputable shops run by professionals.  Even  experts make mistakes. Flea  markets and garage sales are a casual, inexpensive  way  to pick up furnishings.

6.7.5. Joining Methods

There  are five principal methods of putting furniture  together; staples,  nails, screws, joints, and glue. Most pieces use  more than  one  method. Look for the strongest construction  where  a piece will bear the most weight or receive the most  stress(legs, shelf braces, drawers). Joints are the places where one component in a piece of furniture fits  into another. These joints are often reinforced  by  glue; synthetic glues are the most durable.

Where joints are impractical, screws are the best fasteners; they should  be secure and screwed in all the way. Staples  are  used only on budget furniture and are inappropriate for joining pieces that  bear  weight or undergo stress. Nails  are  stronger  than staples, but not as strong as other joining methods. A  good  joint can make all the difference in the  life span  of furniture.

The different types are

1. Butt  joints,  in which two pieces are simply  joined  together where  they abut, are weak joints. They can work in some  places, but not in places subject to stress or weight.

2. Miter joints are used at the corners of tables, reinforced with dowels, nails, screws, or a spline.

3. Tongue-and-groove  joinery is used to join two boards  together side by side, as in a tabletop

4. Dovetail  joints  are found joining  drawer  sides.  Dovetails should  fit together smoothly. Avoid pieces in which the  dovetails are cracked or seem too small.

5. Double-dowel  joints use two dowels to peg the joint  together. A sturdy joint, it is used to create the framing for case  goods or to attach legs to side rails of chairs.

6. Mortice and tenon is the strongest method of joining pieces  of wood  at right angles. The end of one piece of wood is shaped  to fit  into  a hole in the other.  This  construction  distributes stress over a wide area.

At  points of special strain - like the corner of chairs  or  tables-  look  underneath for corner blocks that are  screwed  in place. They provide extra support.

6.7.6. Quick Checks For Quality

Different  standards of quality apply at different price  levels. No  matter what your budget, you will learn a lot about  a  piece through these quick checks:

Cabinets, Wardrobes:

• Check the edges of doors to see if veneers  or  laminates have  been  used, and how well laminates are joined to  the  base material. Operate the doors to make sure they work smoothly; push down firmly on the open door: The hinges should be strong enough to prevent sagging.

• Drawers should fit well, with no more than 1/4 inch  of "play"  from  side to side. Better pieces have  center  or  side glides and drawer stops, and the bottoms are held by grooves, not staples or nails. The insides of drawers are smooth and sealed. Better  pieces  also have dovetail joints at  all  four  corners. Examine  the fit of these joints carefully; dovetails are a  good measure of overall quality.

• Back  panels: In better furniture, the back panel  is  finished, set and screwed into the frame.

Sofas, chairs:

• In  upholstered  furniture,  it is what is  inside  that  counts. Because you cannot see inside, you will have to garner information from tags, salespeople, and manufacturers' catalogs.

• Most  upholstered furniture begins with a wooden frame. A  good-quality wood frame joined by dowels and  interlocking  pieces, rather than butted together.

• Corner blocks are cut to fit,  and screwed and glued into position.

• Legs  should  be a continuation of the back or  front  frame,  or should  be  locked into the frame with heavy duty  joining  techniques. Be wary of legs screwed into the frame or screwed  into metal plates joined to the frame.

• Attached  to  the  frame are the springs.  Springs  support  the sitter  and  help give a piece shape; saggy  springs  make  sorry-looking  furniture.

• Springs usually are girded by webbing.  The webbing  should  be close and smooth, without  big  gaps  between straps.  

• Strong  and resilient, polyurethane foam is now the  most  widely used filling for lift-out seat and back cushions. Because it  is fairly  firm,  it is most comfortable when wrapped  with  another material, such as down or polyester batting. The lighter the foam, the  better the quality.

• The type of coverings used on upholstery is also a main consideration for quality

.

Test-Drive A Chair

➢ Sit  in it: Firmness or softness is a matter of personal  taste, but  no matter how cushy it is, a chair should give  you  support and feel good. You should not be able to feel individual springs or  hard  frame edges. The filling should be even  and  free  of lumps.

➢ Lean  on it: It should feel solid, without wobbling or  swaying. Lean  back into the chair and bounce on the seat to be  sure  the frame feel secure.

➢ Lift  it: Pick one end of the piece. Creaks or squeaks can  tip you  off to a frame made of wood that has been improperly  dried, or corner joints that are merely nailed or screwed together.  Pat the  underside of the chair. A hollow drumlike  sound  indicates tight  coils and webbing. Signs of poor quality  include  excess glue, raveled fabric edges, and rough lumber.

➢ Look  it over: Check tailoring quality. Look for straight,  neatly sewn  welts, with no puckering or loose threads. Pull the  seams gently to see if the stitches are tight. Skirts should be lined, hang straight, and have crisp corners. Patterns should be  carefully matched, and trims should be securely attached.

Common points to check for are:

✓ be free from rough, unfinished edges or surfaces

✓ be free from surplus adhesive

✓ have the correct type of joints which fit well

✓ stand firm on the floor and be rigid in use

✓ if  a cupboard or wardrobe, be stable and  balanced  whether empty or full, have drawers which run smoothly,

✓ have doors which fit properly and have stays to prevent them opening too far,

✓ have sliding doors which run smoothly

✓ have efficient locks, catches, hinges etc

✓ have  handles conveniently placed, comfortable to  hold  and free from sharp edges,

✓ have castors with no sharp edges.

✓ have lipping, beading done with sufficient care for veneers

Wooden furniture must be checked before the application of polish.

6.7.7. Terms to know:

1. Collection:  A  manufacturer's  grouping  of  furniture   pieces. Although furniture usually is displayed in collections, you  need not buy it that way.

2. Reproductions:  Exact copies of fine antiques, usually made  with the  same materials and details as originals. " Visual  reproductions"  use  modern short cuts to hold down costs or add  modern convenience.

3. Adaptations:  Loosely  based on originals. Tag may  say  "based on", "adapted from", or "in the style of "

4. Sectionals: Upholstered pieces made in section that fit  together in a set configuration.

5. Modular:  Fully upholstered seating component such  as  armless chairs,  one-arm  chairs, and corner pieces that may be  used  in many configurations.

6. COM:  Custom-Ordered  Material. Manufacturers may  offer  you  a choice  of COM fabrics when you buy an upholstered piece  or  let you supply your own

7. Apartment-size  furniture: Smaller-size upholstered  pieces  and case goods.

8. RTA: Affordable, ready-to-assemble furniture that can be  carried home immediately.

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Leather  is  an  alternative to a fabric  covering.  Strong  and durable, leather-with reasonable care- can last up to four  times as  long as fabric. Leather comes in a whole range  of  colours, and  new soil-resistant finishes also make it more practical  for everyday use. Leather  may  be  glazed or aniline dyed.  Shiny,  stiff  leather sometimes  seen on traditional furnishings, may crack with  wear. Aniline-dyed leather is almost as soft as fabric, so it will  not crack.  However,  it  is more susceptible  to  stains  than coated leather.

Leather grading is based on such factors as softness,  blemishes, and  color. All leather is equally tough, although  some  grades are  more porous than others. Top-grain leather is leather  that has been treated only for color and stain resistance; it has  not been split or sanded to remove blemishes.

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