SQUARING THE FOUNDATION WALLS AND DECKING - Habitat for Humanity Detroit

SQUARING THE FOUNDATION WALLS AND DECKING

NOTE: The numbers and measurements in this procedure are for the 28' x 44', 4- Bedroom Ranch.

Take ALL THE TIME needed to get this step RIGHT ON THE MONEY. The objective is to leave foundation problems in the foundation.

MATERIALS:

brooms 2- 50' tapes chalk and chalk box RedHead fasteners Drill and ?" bit 1- 1/4 bit adhesive 2- large working caulk guns 16d gal nails loose and Paslode 8d gal nails loose and Paslode Paslode gas ramset and fasteners 2- framing squares Large Framing square TJI cutting jig sledge hammer 2- circular saws with good blades Simpson straps Tico nails 1X4 PT landing kit or 2 x 8 material 2-LVL hangers and 1-TJI hanger deck screw guns and screw strips Sawzall with metal cutting blade

Some of the next steps will be going on simultaneously.

BEAM 2 X 6 NAILING:

Set 2-2 x 6, regular wood, on EDGE on a pair of saw horses.

Nail 16d nails into BOTH edges every 36" and bend over the nails. These 2x 6 will be placed on top of the beam in a future step.

THE BEGINNING:

Start by sweeping off the foundations walls.

Take some rough outside measurements at 3 or 4 points between the long walls.

Take 3 measurements from back to front at the corners and along the beam.

Pull diagonals on the foundation to get an aprox idea how square the foundation is.

Sight down the non-garage wall, the REFERENCE WALL, and check for straightness.

CREATING REFERENCE LINES:

Measure in 5 ?" from the outside edge of the Non Garage, REFERENCE WALL (RW), at the front and rear corners.

Snap a line between these points to create a BASELINE for the rest of the layout.

NOTE: Measurements with long tapes will be done by " cutting a foot". Because the ends of long tapes are unreliable, the 1 FOOT mark will be used as the end. This will add 1 FOOT to any dimension, which have to be subtracted BEFORE any cuts are made.

Measure 27' 1", from the Baseline on the RW, at the Rear corner, to the rear corner of the garage side wall.

There should be 5 1/2" from the mark to the edge of the foundation.

If YES, measure across at the Front corner, mark the wall and check for the 5 ?" margin to the edge of the foundation. If YES, snap a line on the Garage Wall, between these points.

If the margin is NOT 5 ?", STOP and make the adjustment, increasing/decreasing the width, so the SNAPPED LINES ARE PARALLEL AND THE MUDSILL DOES NOT UNDER HANG THE FOUNDATION.

Go back to the RW and measure in 5 ?" along the BASELINE from the REAR wall corner.

Measure 43' 1", along the BASELINE, to the FRONT corner. Check for margin of 5 ?" to the edge of the foundation.

If the margin is more or less than 5 1//2", MARK AT 5 ?" and the 43'1" number will need to be adjusted.

The next step is finding the CENTER of the garage wall.

Crew members will hold their long tapes, CUTTING A FOOT, at the marks on the corners of the RW.

Extend the tapes to the garage wall and cross the tapes until the measurements on both tapes match exactly. Mark this point on the wall.

IF THE MARGIN WAS 5 ?" IN THE PREVIOUS STEP, Measure from the MIDPOINT of the garage wall, towards the REAR of the house 21' 6 ?". This mark should be 5 ?" form the rear edge of the foundation.

If OK, snap a line between the marks on the REAR wall, which is now 90 degrees to the side walls.

Complete the previous step towards the FRONT of the house. If OK, snap a line across the front wall. If margins were not 5 ?" STOP and make adjustments before snapping lines.

Pull diagonals from the marks on the foundation. If they are within ?" of square, start setting the mudsills. DIAG.

INSTALLING THE MUDSILLS:

2 x 6 Pressure Tretaed ("GREEN WOOD") will be used for the sills.

Layout/Install the sills on the Long side walls first, so that other critical layout work can continue.

Measure in 5 ?" in from the end of the sill and mark the 2 x 6. This mark will line up with the snapped line on the rear wall. The sill will also extend past the snapped line on the front wall by 5/1/2".

LOCATING BOLT HOLES:

Butt sill stock end to end, against the bolts. Use a "speed square" to mark both sides of the bolts.

Using a "combination square" or tape, measure the distance from the layout line on the foundation wall to the center of the bolt.

CRITICAL STEP: Measure the diameter of the bolts. Drill holes with the correct size bit, ?" bit for 1/2 " bolts and 5/8" bit for 3/8" bolts.

Place Blue Sill Seal over the bolts OR stapled to the bottom of the 2 x 6, aligned with the REFERENCE LINES.

Fasten bolts CAREFULLY with a washer and nut. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN.

Where sill pieces meet, nail together with GALVANIZED 16D's on both sides.

Once the mudsills are set on the side walls and straightened, measure in 1" from the outside edge at the 4 corners and snap a chalk line between the points. This line will used to set the floor joists/TJI's.

Continue setting the mudsills on the front and rear walls following the same procedures.

ADJUSTING THE BEAM AND SETTING POSTS:

Adjust height of beam, in the beam pocket, by using metal shims and pry bars, so the beam sits flush with the top of the foundation.

Crew members will take previously prepped 2 x 6's, with bent over 16d nails, and slide them out over the top of the beam.

Slide 2- full 2 x 6's and the 3rd one will be cut to length. Attach a mending plate to one end to lock in place.

Remove wood and gravel from the pad locations. Place posts as shown, on plan, at 10'7"from front and rear walls.

NOTE: Using a METAL "C" clamp, clamp the Post plate to the bottom of the beam. Bend, with a hammer, the post tabs securely over bottom flange of the beam.

Plumb post(s) and adjust height so they are JUST snug.

Extend a string line between long walls, at the post locations. Check that the string line is touching the side sills and the 2 x 6 on top of the beam. Adjust post height as needed.

Check the beam where it sits in the beam pocket for FULL bearing on the shims and flush with top of the wall. Add shims as needed.

Attach post bases with 4- 2 ?" Ramset pins into the pad.

INSTALL FRONT AND REAR KNEE WALLS:

LOCATE AND MARK THE CENTERLINE OF THE END WALL MUDSILLS.

Measure ?" IN from the outside edge and snap a chalk line on the front and rear mudsills.

Position the knee wall on the mudsill against the CENTERLINE MARK. Locate the 1" line on the side wall mudsill.

MARK AND CUT THE KNEE WALL TO LENGTH. Re-nail the end stud.

Layout for the bolt holes and drill COMPLETELY through the bottom kneewall plate with a 11/2" bit. This will eliminate interference with bolts at final install.

Apply a bead of sub floor adhesive on the mudsill under the knee wall.

Place knee wall, using the reference marks and nail in place with 16d GALVANIZED nails.

Cut/rip strips of OSB to cover outside of knee walls and nail with 8d's around the edge and at each "stud". Mark location of studs before covering.

If not already done, Mark 1" in from edge of the mudsill, on the side walls, at each of the 4 corners and snap a line along the wall.

LAYOUT:

Check that the edges/end of the mud sills match.

Start at the REAR NON-GARAGE wall corner by hooking your tape on the END of the mudsill.

Pull tape towards the FRONT of the house with the first mark at 23 1/8", X toward the street, and the second mark at 47 1/8", X toward the street.

NOTE: The floor joist top flange is 1 ?" and the first layout mark must be SET BACK half the width of the floor joist, ie, 7/8". This will allow the first sheet of "decking" to break on the center of the 4th joist.

Hook a 50/100 ft tape, with the 2' mark set at the 47 1/8 layout line and continue, 24OC, towards the FRONT of the house. Extend the lines with a speed square after marking the mudsill.

Start at the REAR GARAGE WAll corner and follow the same layout procedure used on the non-garage wall.

MAKE SURE THE ALL MEASUREMENT/LAYOUT MARKS ARE EXACTLY THE SAME ON BOTH WALLS. (leave in red.)

NOTE: Once floor joist layout is complete, bolts that interfere with a TJI, are too short can be cut out and new "RedHead style fasteners installed. Add bolts at the end of mud sill boards, where no bolt is within 12"-14" of the corner.

STAIR OPENING LAYOUT:

Starting at the REAR of the GARAGE wall, hook your tape at the END of mudsill and measure towards the FRONT of the house 20', make a line and mark the X to the REAR of the house.

This is the location of the REAR stair LVL.

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