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Red Fox Care SheetNecessities:-Heating Pad that does not shut off (Conair brand at dollar store)-Esbilac puppy milk (goats milk version)-Canned grain free dog food (Wingaling by Merrick, Taste of the Wild, Instinct ultimate chicken, taste of the wild, etc)-Blankets and feeding towels-Shallow feeding dish-Pouch to carry around your baby if you so desire -Tote/Rabbit cage/Crate to keep your baby in while young. Pet carriers aren’t recommended, they fear someone reaching in dark places towards them and do much better with reaching in from an open top. -Puppy wormer!!!! Needs done every other week or so. We use happy jack from feed store (tractor supply or rural king) or Nemex-2. Follow instructions, photo of bottle in worming section below!!!43929308763000Feeding:As of now, your baby is getting fed a canned dog food with Esbilac puppy milk replacer (powdered version, mixed 1-part powder, 2-parts water) poured over it (you want the consistency of ham salad). Your pup needs fed this 3-4 times a day. As he/she gets older, the amount of times can be cut back. Esbilac Mixing: Read your directions, but usually mixed 1:2. Meaning 2 water scoops and 1 powder scoop. ALWAYS mix more water than powder, never mix more powder than water. If too much powder, can cause diarrhea.4-week old pup (4 times a day) needs fed more times than a 7-week old pup (3 times a day).Feed your fox on your lap!!! Place a towel you don’t mind getting dirty, the fox, and its food bowl in your lap. Hold the kit and spoon feed it. This prevents food aggression and furthers the bond. (Try your best to keep its feet out of the pan or you’ll have to bathe every time!) At about week 6-7, you can start adding in a dry grain free dog food, mixed veggies (buy the frozen bags at Walmart and unthaw), unsweetened applesauce, mealworms, eggs (scrambled, raw, hard boiled). Don’t take away the milk and canned dog food option, just make that portion less and start offering new foods to wean them from the milk. Grain Free Kibble: Some good options are Instinct Ultimate Grain Free Chicken (Dog version) or Wellness Core (Dog version), Merrick brand, or taste of the wild. *Blue Buffalo Rabbit formula (Dog Version) is what we used to use, but recent discoveries have shown recalls and high toxicity levels of lead. -All versions I listed have sufficient amount of taurine already added.Adult Feeding:As adults, your fox needs fed a variety of things. Options include; Unsweetened applesauce, raspberries, strawberries, blackberries, bananas, apples, mealworms, corn (careful with the cob), carrots, mixed veggies, watermelon, eggs cooked any way or raw, meat (cooked or raw) (no pork, very little beef), deer meat, rabbit, grain free kibble, etc. When feeding bones, you always run the risk of them penetrating the intestines/stomach so be aware of that. If you do feed bone, never feed cooked ones, always feed raw. Can always feed bone meal to supplement or actually grind your meat and bones. Can also purchase already ground rabbit meat with bone included at hare-. *Taurine is essential to a fox diet. You can buy a supplement in liquid or powder form, but if you buy one of these kibbles, it has the correct amount already so no further supplementation Is needed. (500 mg a day is roughly what they require)New Kit: Your kit will be scared the first few days and it will take some time for it to warm up to you, your new sounds and smells, and its new surroundings. Be PATIENT. Realize that your kit has just spent the last few weeks under our care and has gotten accustomed to our voices and smells, going home with you is a whole new world and it can be scary for a little kit, no matter how well we socialized him/her. The best way to fix this is to hold them as much as possible. The more time you spend with them, the more comfortable they will get with you in a shorter amount of time. I have this written on my website as well, but if bonding is a worry of yours, go find a deep over the shoulder bag that can be washed, and carry your fox in that. I usually place some fleece material in the bottom for it to stay warm and burrow, (make sure it can breathe) and deep enough that it can’t climb out without you noticing. Do this for a while, or until your fox is too big to remain in it (You’ll know, it’s when the sleep and baby stage is over). Don’t be afraid to socialize your fox. Let it ride in the car with you, see your friends, sleep with you on the couch, watch t.v. with you, etc. The more time you spend with your fox, the better bond you will have and the more comfortable your fox will be with you. I take my kits everywhere with me in my pouch, but nobody knows I have my kits. This allows them to get accustomed to my voice, loud sounds, cars, other voices, my smell, my movements, and all the other environments that I want them to be comfortable with as adults. DO NOT let other people touch your fox or set it down on foreign ground if your fox does not have its shots yet and the person is a stranger. It sounds drastic, but it’s worth it to have a healthy fox and one not dying of parvo or distemper (which can be transferred by barn cats or other sick pets). After the shots are administered he/she is much safer and is free to play on the ground. 46253403492500Worming: Have your kit wormed often. Just like a puppy, they are susceptible to worms and need it frequently the first few months (still continue to worm every so often as adults). We use a puppy wormer that has the active ingredient Pyrantel, called Nemex-2. We do it ourselves and you can find this wormer or puppy wormer at Tractor Supply and/or Rural King. Follow directions on the back of the bottle. Flea Medication:If your fox ever gets fleas (it’s normal if you have multiple pets or they are outside frequently), Revolution dog version is the way to go. It helps protect against ear mites, fleas, ticks, worms, and heart worm. Shots: Our foxes receive regular puppy shots, with the modified live virus. Continue with boosters. We recommend waiting until week 10 before administering the shots. Spay and Neuter: Spay and neuter is completely up to the owner. I always tell people I don’t see a difference at all, but some people prefer it one way and others have it in their head that since you spay and neuter dogs, that you should do it to all your pets. I don’t disagree that spaying/neutering dogs helps alter their moods and hormones, but with fox, it’s a whole different ball game. Personally, I believe it’s the age that makes the hormones in fox mellow out and become more balanced. Females are always going to be sassy and moody, that’s a vixen for you—they are quite literally known for that, regardless if they are spayed or not. Males in my opinion are even more lovey and want more attention (not neutered). And no, I haven’t been humped but once in my life by my fox so that’s not really a problem like it is with dogs. My favorite phrase when it comes to fox and maturation/behavior is “they get better with age”. If you can make it past the first year where hormones are crazy, moods are everywhere, October crazies hit, and puberty, the next years to come are a breeze. The hormones level out, the moods are more predictable, and eventually (after a few years) the moods become nonexistent in some fox. * If you do decide to neuter or spay, please wait until 6-8 months of age like with dogs. If you have concerns or would like to discuss this, please let me know. I will gladly tell you all my experiences. *If you do get two foxes though and don’t plan on breeding, then definitely spay/neuter. Harness Training: If you want to harness train your fox or be able to walk them on a leash, put a harness on as soon as you can find one small enough. Let them get used to the harness a few days at a time, you can take it off and on after a while (obviously don’t attach too tightly). I usually buy the adjustable rope harnesses for rabbits (at farm store) when my kits are too small to fit regular harnesses---they are very helpful and have a rope attached so they don’t wander far. When older, buy a collar and a safe harness (not a step in harness, they slip too easily). It’s safest to use a harness and collar at same time, and buy a leash that attaches in both places in case they were to slip one. That way if they slip their harness, you still have your fox by the collar. I promise it’s worth it. Litter Training: Red foxes do not normally litter train completely. At best, they reach about 85-90% litter trained and still spot pee and happy pee. It comes with the territory of owning a fox. Honestly, happy pee is something we fox owners get excited about and welcome because it means your fox is just as excited to see you! It is a fox’s nature to pee on their food and water bowls, or anything they claim as theirs (AKA all of your stuff because they claim YOU). So yes, be prepared to have socks, clothes, backpacks, water bottles, food dishes, couches, pillows, blankets, etc. peed/pooped on because you will be claimed and nothing will ever just be yours again. This is your warning to put up all things that you don’t want ruined by poop/pee/chewing. How to:When your fox poops or pees in a spot, get a paper towel, wipe it up, and put it in the litter pan you have designated for them. Also, place that litter pan in the most used bathroom spot so they know which area to go to. *Start at a young age, like as soon as you get your kit and it is very mobile (6-7 weeks). *I would recommend starting with a shallow throw away tin pan like for baking because it’s the smallest thing I can think of for when really young. When older, you can get the covered cat litter pans—they tend to really take to those. For litter, people use different things. I have heard really good feedback from ones who use the recycled pellets like for ferrets (they are hard, not the fluffy material). I have also heard that wood chips for horses are good to use as well and keep the odor to a minimum. *Ferret litter can be ordered online at . It is very absorbent and contains no added odor. Be sure to watch your fox and make sure he/she does not consume any litter. Baby Proofing: The first few weeks they baby won’t do much besides eat, sleep, and poop. But start cleaning your house in the meantime for baby proofing; put things up higher, hide cords, put tennis shoes and clothing up, and get locks for the pantries. You’ll also want to clean kitchen counters and get lids for your trash. *PUT AWAY HOUSEHOLD CLEANERS. Every year we get someone who didn’t do this and their fox gets sick. Don’t be that person. This is just like having a kid on steroids, so whatever you would do for a toddler, you do now. Extras: Just have fun! You will learn as you go and grow to live with your fox, even learn to love all the quirks they have. If at any time you need help or have a question, please call or text me at 812-508-2629 and I will gladly answer! *The biggest take aways are: -keep your fox safe until it has had its shots -make sure to baby proof the house -play with your kit as much as possible and socialize -feed a balanced, variety of foods from list mentioned IMPORTANT: If at any time you are thinking about rehoming your fox, please contact me first and let me know. I can give solutions to help fix the problems, or point you to someone who can give your fox a genuinely good home. These fox mean the world to me and the last thing I want is for them to get bounces around; they deserve the best. ****If at any time you are unsure of something or need help, don’t be afraid to call or text me at 812-508-2629. These babies are my pride and joy and I will do anything I can to insure they have amazing, full lives. Good-luck on your new Adventure!Don’t forget to follow us on Instagram and Facebook @ lostriverexotics and to tag us in your pictures! We love watching the kits grown and enjoy their new homes. ................
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