'Off To A Good Start'



"Off To A Good Start"

Stewart A. Leach

Colorado Grey Fox

Modern gun makers have devised a number of ways to create the long tubes of steel with internal spiraling grooves we call rifle barrels. All start with a blank bar of metal; from there divergence in methods and sequence of operations grows quickly. Some barrel makers do all outside machining before reaming and rifling, others do the opposite. Those spiraling grooves are created through cutting, scraping, broaching (a series of cutting edges on one tool) or hydraulically forcing a reverse image tool through the bore. Hammer forging combines outside shaping with internal dimensioning and rifling. Some makers straighten barrels; others are vehemently against this. Lapping with fine abrasives may or may not be done at various stages. All these varied processes produce great barrels.

The finest attention to detail still leaves some minute roughness inside a new barrel. Chambering leaves some roughness in the leade and throat areas. The microscopic grooves, rings, pits and fins tear at the outside of a bullet as it passes by, causing some of the jacket material to remain behind. Successive shots add to this; residues from primer and powder combustion add to the chemically active mix. As a string of shots progresses the deposits build up, creating constrictions and uneven passage of the bullet through the bore. Barrel vibrations become less uniform, and accuracy suffers.

Think of a firearm as a very simple internal combustion engine. The barrel is the cylinder, the bullet is the piston. In this "free piston" engine we use each piston only once, but we expect several thousand functions from the cylinder. Two dissimilar metal surfaces must move past each other at high speed, under great pressure and with little or no lubrication. Careful break-in of the cylinder will enhance accuracy, allow longer accurate strings between cleanings, ease the cleaning process and extend the life of the barrel. Any barrel will benefit from proper break-in, be it the chrome-moly steel tube on a mass produced hunting rifle or the stainless steel product of the finest custom maker.

Break-in is done at the range, and takes a long morning or afternoon. A series of shots is fired, in combination with very thorough cleanings. The objective is to have successive bullets pass by bare steel, acting to wear down microscopic irregularities and impart a final polish to the barrel. The soft metal bullet jacket has an action much like the effect of a leather strop on a straight razor. Minor rugosities which rise above the base surface of the steel are wiped away.

In addition to the rifle and appropriate plain bullet ammunition the following will be needed:

* Padded cradle or vise to hold the rifle

* Cleaning rod guide

* High quality plastic coated cleaning rod

* Bronze bristle brush

* Plastic or boar bristle brush, or bore mop

* Spear or wrap around patch holder

* Ample supply of patches

* Powder solvent such as Hoppe's, Shooters Choice, etc.

* Copper solvent such as Sweet's 7.62, or abrasive cleaner such as JB Bore Paste

* Wiping rags

Before firing the first shot wipe out the barrel with powder solvent and patch dry. Some pretty strange things can get in a barrel during final assembly and shipping, let alone while on a display rack. Firing that first shot without cleaning risks damage to the bore.

Fire one, and only one, shot and clean well with powder solvent, bronze brush and patches. Always use an eye-dropper or squeeze bottle to apply the solvent to the brush; dipping the brush in the bottle just contaminates your whole solvent supply. Wipe the rod between passes. Now clean again with copper solvent. Apply the copper solvent with the plastic or boar bristle brush, or with the mop- this stuff eats bronze brush bristles! Apply liberally, and allow to soak for three to five minutes. Position the rifle with the muzzle low to keep solvent from draining into the action and bedding. I like to dry fire, shoot another gun, shoot the breeze, etc. while waiting.

The first patch after applying copper solvent will show a lovely azure blue color. This is made up mostly of copper compounds, the products of a chemical reaction between bullet jacket metals and the ammonia in the solvent. Patch dry, apply more copper solvent, wait, and patch again. Repeat this regime until no blue color shows on that first patch. The barrel must be cleaned down to bare steel.

Some custom barrel makers recommend that each shot be fired across clean, dry steel uncontaminated by powder fouling or jacket material. Alternatively, some well respected benchrest gunsmiths recommend a "wet" break-in, where the barrel is cleaned as described and a light coating of Rem Oil (tm), Kroil (tm) or a similar light bodied oil is applied with a patch before the next shot is fired. Both schools emphasize one shot at a time, and thorough cleaning. Some ‘smiths and barrel makers are also endorsing use of the mild abrasive cleaners such as JB Bore Paste, Rem Clean or IOSSO.

Fire another single round, and clean again. Keep this up for at least ten rounds; fifteen would be better. After a few rounds you will find fewer doses of copper solvent are needed to get a clean patch. The break-in process is progressing. A Rocky Mountain Rifle Works (Mark Chanlynn) 30 caliber match barrel needed fewer doses after just five rounds; a Norinco SKS never did need fewer doses.

Finally, fire a series of three shot groups, cleaning as before. After three to five groups and cleanings the break-in process is complete. Shoot well, being confident that you have done your part to enhance barrel performance.

Dry Fire Drills

for

Highpower Competitors

Stewart A. Leach

Colorado Grey Fox

“Dry firing”, i.e. without ammunition, can be a very valuable training technique for the across the course NRA Highpower Rifle competitor. Dry firing makes use of a well proven training principle- frequent repetition at short intervals builds and maintains skills better than long sessions widely spaced.

The following exercises are designed to ingrain proper position building and rebuilding, sight alignment, sight picture, focus, trigger release and calling the shot.

Dry firing can be done indoors or outside. To get the most benefit, use all your usual equipment. This will teach you to set up your gear quickly and efficiently, and get you accustomed to the feel of the coat, glove, sling, etc. Shooters with M14- and M16- type rifles will want to insert a coin under the lips of the magazine to hold the follower down and simplify operation. For targets, a 3/8” diameter black thumbtack centered in a 2¼” square of manila file folder gives the right perspective at 18 feet. At 36 feet, a black ¾” round target paster on a 4½” square is excellent.

Safety Note: Be sure your rifle is not loaded! There should be no ammunition in the vicinity of dry firing exercises.

Offhand: Set up scope and stool as usual. Concentrate on building a good position, and testing the Natural Point of Aim (NPA). Test by building, aiming, and then closing your eyes for 4-5 seconds. When you open your eyes, where was your front sight? If high, bring feet closer together; spread ‘em if you were low. Move your rear foot forward or back slightly to move the NPA horizontally. Test again. When you get it right, dry fire at least ten times. Go through the same motions as would be used in live fire. Focus on sight alignment, and reducing your wobble area. When the trigger releases, maintain the hold for two or three more seconds to build a good follow through pattern. Call each shot out loud. Really!- say “9 at 3 o’clock” (or whatever) right out loud. Plot in data book. Be honest.

Sitting: Set up as usual. Build a good position, and test the NPA. Rise, and drop back down in a controlled fashion at least five times. Concentrate on getting smoothly back to position, with a quick test of NPA. Each time, do what you would do in a match. As getting back to the same position after reloading is critical to good rapid-fire scores, do at least five more reps where you reload and rebuild the position. Call your shots. Simulate the breathing and trigger stroke of strings of 2 & 8 or 5 & 5.

Prone rapid: Same as sitting. Pay attention to rebuilding, and a quick test of NPA after the reload.

Prone slow: Similar to offhand drill. Be sure to set up all your gear, including the spotting scope. Practice scoping the target, loading and mounting the rifle, and firing with follow through. After a few repetitions, test your NPA again. Does the front sight still move straight up and down through the target? Or did your position change slightly as you went through the motions? You may find that you have to build and test the position for each shot.

Finish by doing ten more offhand. Everyone can improve his or her offhand performance.

Equipment Notes For The Beginning Highpower Rifle Competitor

Stewart A. Leach

Colorado Grey Fox

These notes and observations are for the beginning highpower shooter. Highpower is an equipment intensive sport, though good training and practice count at least as much as equipment. Safety equipment purchases are absolutely and immediately necessary, while other items may be borrowed from others at matches and practice sessions. Highpower shooters are a generous and sharing lot, provided you ask in advance. Before making major purchases ask around and find out what is working well for local shooters. Used gear is often available; put up "wanted" posters or advertise in club newsletters.

In no particular order, here are the things a beginning shooter will need. In some instances the advice is to start with an improvised item rather than immediately buying an expensive item like a shooting coat.

Hearing protection: Most ranges require hearing protection, and you will shoot best when you use it. A high Noise Reduction Rating (NRR) is desirable, but a high NRR usually also means more weight, bulk and cost. The muff type protectors are conveniently quick to put on and take off. Many shooters prefer the ear-plug type protection, which is available as inexpensive foam puffs and more expensive custom molded versions. I personally prefer the bright daylight fluorescent orange foam puffs sold by Dillon, topped by a pair of Peltor shotgunner muffs.

Eye protection: Very, very rarely a cartridge may leak powder gasses or rupture, carrying bits of metal back toward the shooter. Eye protection is necessary, and usually takes the form of sunglasses, prescription lenses or special shooting glasses. Select for impact resistance. See eye care professional for special shooting lenses.

Rifles: In NRA competition, two types of rifles are used: the match rifle and the service rifle. Match rifles are usually bolt actions with heavy barrels, five round magazines and special stocks. Most commonly chambered for one of the 308 Winchester or 223 Remington families of cartridges, they bear precision adjustable rear sights with an aperture front sight. Most match rifles are built up by custom gunsmiths from standard factory actions. A growing number of match rifles are seen based on semi-auto actions such as the Colt AR-15 or Knight SR-25.

Service rifle means a US military service rifle or its civilian equivalent. This means the M1 Garand in 30-06 or 7.62mm NATO/308 Win, the M14/M1A in 7.62/308 or the M16/AR-15 in 5.56mmNATO/223 Rem. Military rifles from other countries or an earlier era are regarded as match rifles. As the service rifle may be fired in match rifle events, but not vice-versa, new shooters often begin with the service rifle.

Basic service grade M1 Garand rifles are available for sale to highpower competitors through an organization called the Civilian Marksmanship Program. Used to be Army sponsored, now a “government sponsored enterprise”. The process involves a lot of paperwork, takes several months, and is well worth while because the rifle will be in much better condition than those being brought back into the country from the Philippines, Korea, etc.. Contact: Director of Civilian Marksmanship, P. O. Box 576, Port Clinton, OH 43452; (419) 635-2141; .

Many shooting clubs have a number of M1 Garand rifles loaned or sold to them by the CMP under a program to promote military-type marksmanship among civilians. Clubs use these rifles at club matches and training clinics. Limited supplies of surplus military ammunition may also be available. Some clubs are now selling off their Garands and replacing them with M16 clones.

If I were starting the highpower game today I would go with an M16/AR-15 type service rifle. Initial cost is less than for an M14/M1A, accurizing costs less, ammo costs less, they stay tuned up, recoil is lighter, parts are easily available, easily convertible to match rifle, etc. Besides, this is the service rifle of today!

Sling: For the match rifle, any type of one arm sling is allowed. The most common is a simple leather strap with two buckles allowing adjustment for length and a snug fit on the upper arm. The sling is not used in the offhand position, and is usually taken off the match rifle. Fields and Jensen make good match rifle slings.

Service rifle shooters have a choice of the military one-piece cotton or nylon web sling, or the two-piece leather military sling. The leather sling is best; look for one 1-1/4" wide, made of heavy leather, front strap at least 50 inches long. For the M16 clones get a sling at least 56” long. Brownell’s makes a good sling, Turner Saddlery makes the best; don’t bother with light duty stuff like Hunter or Uncle Mike’s. The cotton web sling is good, and easy to use; stay away from the slippery nylon one! The sling stays on the service rifle in all shooting positions, though it is used only in the sitting and prone stages.

Chargers, clips or magazines: Have at least three that work in your rifle. Only two are really needed, but what if one gets lost or damaged? Test each for smooth function. Be aware of local legal restrictions. For the M14/M1A and M16/AR15 rifles, you want the 20 round size magazines, or ten round capacity mags with the same outside dimensions as twenty-rounders.

Gun case: Used to protect the rifle from damage and prying eyes. Hard cases offer the most protection, are lockable and required if you fly with a firearm. Soft cases are less bulky and more convenient.

Cleaning gear: Clean rifles shoot better and last longer! You need a sturdy one piece plastic coated steel cleaning rod, rod guide, bore brushes, a patch holder and an old toothbrush. Avoid aluminum or brass cleaning rods: the soft metal can pick up grit and damage your barrel. I like Dewey and BoreTech rods. Also needed are a powder solvent, a copper solvent, patches, gun grease, gun oil and some rags.

Ammunition: For the beginner, almost any safe ammo for your rifle will do. Various types of surplus are available, and will work fine for your first few matches as you learn the game. As skill improves, you’ll want to reload for economy and accuracy. The loads listed below work well for the author.

* * * DISCLAIMER: Reloading and use of reloaded ammunition can be hazardous. Read up on safety procedures, view videos and seek competent instruction. Wear safety equipment such as eyeshield and gloves. The author assumes no liability for other persons who may use data in this article. * * *

30-06: Military cases, standard force primer, 45 grains IMR 4895 powder, 168 grain match bullet.

7.62/308: Military cases, standard force primer, 41 grains IMR 4895 powder, 168 grain match bullet.

5.56/223: Military or civilian cases, standard force primer, 25 grains Hodgdon 335 powder and 55 grain bullet, or, for 1-9 or faster twist barrels, 24 grains of Hodgdon Varget powder and 68 or 69 grain match bullet. Heavier bullets are available for specialized handloading. See latest loading manuals for more information.

Data book: Some sort of notebook to record sight settings, ammo used, windage adjustments. Special notebooks with pre-printed record sheets are available. I like the Creedmoor and Jim Owens books. A seed corn notebook or other small wirebound notebook will do. Keep it in a ZipLoc bag.

Temporary score book: Important! Obtain one of these at the first clinic or match you attend. Until issued a formal classification card by the NRA, this booklet is your classification record for subsequent competitions.

Rule book: A current NRA Highpower Rule Book will guide you as to what is allowed and expected. The rules change a little each year. Contact at . , then go to competitions division.

Timer or stopwatch: A countdown timer is a convenience, helps you pace yourself during slow fire matches. A regular wristwatch will also serve.

Clothing: Should be comfortable. Wear outdoor clothing suitable for the weather. From the ground up:

Shoes: Sturdy, with a fairly firm, flat sole. Athletic shoes are popular, as are hiking boots; no sandals.

Pants: Nothing too restrictive, as you must shoot in the sitting position. Blue jeans and chinos are a good choice. I like tan BDU’s, supported by carpenter suspenders. Shorts are not a good choice as a hot cartridge case on the back of the knee is somewhat distracting . . .!

Shirt(s): Shirt with collar (to keep sun and hot brass off), and a sweatshirt. I like old white dress shirts.

Hat: For sun protection and to cut glare while shooting. Needs to work in combination with your hearing protection. Ball caps are popular; I like the ‘Nam era “Boonie Hat”- full brim and chin-strap for wind.

Glove or mitt: Special shooting gloves are nice, but many shooters use a sturdy lined work glove on their forward hand. For years I used an old ski glove found by the side of the road while biking.

Shooting coat: A shooting coat helps stabilize the shooting positions, dampens muscle tremors and pulse beats, and softens the effect of rifle recoil. Coats range from inexpensive all fabric "USMC" types ($40) to custom sewn leather versions ($400). Most shooters use a coat made of leather or Cordura ™ fabric with quilted padding, rubber traction patches, sling hook and adjustable take up straps. I like Champions Choice and Creedmoor; my next coat will be a Creedmoor standard model in Cordura ™.

A shooting coat is a big investment. The beginner may want to improvise for a while by using a jean jacket or chore coat over one or two sweatshirts. Avoid slippery nylon fabrics!

Mat: Some sort of mat or pad is needed for the prone position, and is useful in the sitting position as well. Look for a water repellent bottom, padding, rubber traction patches and tie strings. Many shooters will let you use their mat if you ask. A five-foot length of self padded carpet runner or indoor/outdoor carpet can be substituted. I like the Champion’s Choice mat, with lots of Scotchguard or Camp Dry water repellent on the fabric. I don’t like mats with slippery plastic bottoms.

Spotting scope and stand: Again, many shooters will let you use their scope if you ask, but you will soon want your own. Justify the expense by using it for big game spotting, bird watching, etc. Avoid discount store scopes- they are no bargain! Most shooters choose a scope of 20-25 power, with a 45 degree eyepiece. This will allow you to see 30 caliber bullet holes at 200 yards, and spotting disks at all ranges. A padded cover will help protect the scope from bumps, rain and dust. Champions Choice offers a good basic scope; Kowa are the top of the line. As newer scopes come on line, good deals are available on one-generation back equipment.

Stands for spotting scopes allow adjustment for use in all the shooting positions. A camera tripod makes an awkward substitute. The most popular bipod types are the old Freeland design and a newer design by EKL. Several tripod designs are now on the market, and are more stable than the bipods. The Ewing, Giraud and RayVin tripod designs are superb- strong, exceptionally stable, and convenient to use.

Rain gear: Necessary, even in sunny Colorado, for the shooter and his gear. Poncho or rain suit for the shooter, and a plastic tarp or 55 gallon size trash can liner for the rifle, spotting scope, etc.

Shooting kit: To help keep all of the above organized. A folding stool with a bag is most popular. Many shooters use a toolbox. A sturdy wood box or plastic storage crate will also serve. Bear in mind you may have to lug this stuff some distance! At park & hike ranges I use a clean trash barrel strapped on a light duty dolly.

Keeping It All Together: There is a lot of activity at a rifle match, and it is easy to misplace things. Put your name on every item of equipment and supply. After each match or training session reorganize your gear so as to be ready for the next event.

Final thought: When possible, trade with local merchants. Sometimes specialty items are available at major matches. Ask around about good used gear. Listed below are some reputable mail order suppliers.

Champions Choice, Inc. Champion Shooters Supply

201 International Boulevard P. O. Box 303

LaVergne, TN 37086 New Albany, OH 43504

(615) 793-4066 (614) 855-1603



(Broad line supplier) (Mostly smallbore)

Mo's Competitors Supplies O. K. Weber

34 Delmar Drive P. O. Box 7485

Brookfield, CT 06804 Eugene, OR 97401

(203) 775-1013 (503) 747-0458

(Funky ‘catalog’)

(Mostly match rifle and long range)

Creedmoor Sports, Inc. Widener’s

P. O. Box 1040 P. O. Box 3009, CRS

Oceanside, CA 92051 Johnson City, TN 37602

(888) 273-3366 (800) 615-3006



(‘Software’- coats, gloves, etc.) (Reloading tools & supplies)

Colorado Highpower Rifle Gunsmiths:

Mark Chanlynn Dave Sullivan

Rocky Mountain Rifle Works Westwind Rifles

Barrels only; Call for directions Box 261, 640 Briggs Street

Lyons, CO Erie, CO 80516

(303) 823-6270 (303) 828-3823

SAL 010316R

Highpower Rifle Match Etiquette

Stewart A. Leach

Colorado Grey Fox

Being well prepared for a highpower rifle match, knowing what to do and conducting yourself appropriately will enhance enjoyment and performance. There is a practical side, too. If you shoot enough, someday match officials will have to make a judgment call on some occurrence involving you and a rifle malfunction, equipment, position or scoring question. If you are known as a competent, courteous, helpful shooter it might make a difference.

The process starts well before the actual event. Find out about matches from other shooters, club newsletters, and bulletin boards. Check the "Coming Events" section in Shooting Sports USA, the NRA special newsletter for competitive shooters. Try on the ‘net. Write or phone match sponsors for information and entry materials well in advance; remember these things are run by volunteers!

Submit your entry as early as possible, at least two weeks before the match. Put your phone number and e-mail address on the entry form. If you are sharing equipment with another shooter, mention this on your entry; if possible, submit your entries together. Tell the sponsors if you are a new shooter- it may result in your being squadded with a mentor. If you want your entry confirmed, enclose a stamped, self-addressed post card.

If something comes up and you cannot attend the match, let the sponsor know as soon as possible. In most instances the deadline for getting a refund is a couple of days before a match. Even if it's too late for a refund, you should still let the sponsor know you will not be there. This courtesy will help the sponsor squad relays and fill vacant spots.

Many highpower competitions allow late, or even day of the match entries, though there may be an added post entry fee. Sometimes you may be put on a waiting list. If you go to such a match and an opening doesn't develop, consider spending the day helping to run the line, in the pits or doing stats. Even though you don't fire that day, you still get to associate with shooters and make a contribution to the sport. If you enter late, accept the fact that you may be squadded out of your classification, or on the last relay.

Check and pack your equipment the night before you travel to the match. Use a checklist to be sure you don't forget something important. Arriving at a match without your spotting scope, magazines or hearing protection is somewhat awkward....! It is okay to borrow gear, but be sure you ask properly, and return it promptly. As a courtesy to match officials and other shooters, put your name on all your gear. Mark your brass, or know your headstamp, so you can get your cases back and return those of other shooters.

Part of your preparations might include getting directions to an unfamiliar range, or setting up a place to meet a guide. The first time I visited Colorado’s Buffalo Creek Gun Club I could hear the firing long before I put together the right combination of US Forest Service roads to get there. Arrive at the range early enough to check in and be on the line or in the target pits well before the match is scheduled to start. If you show up late or at the last minute you may find your place has been filled. If at an unfamiliar range, be sure to ask about special procedures or parking restrictions.

If sent to the pits for the first relay, help get out the targets, and check that a complete set of pasters, scoring disks and other supplies are in order at your point. Check target operation, and make any repairs before the match starts. Remember that in pit service, what-you-give-is-what-you-get. While the rules allow 15 - 18 seconds for slow fire target operation, a true “Distinguished Pit Pig” can get the target down, spotted, pasted, scored and back up in 6 - 8 seconds. Listen to the pit officer. If in doubt about a shot, or how to handle a situation, ask the pit officer before you insert spotters or plug any holes! When your stint is finished police the area. If you are the last detail of the day in the pits, help put away the targets and other equipment.

On the firing line two important activities take place, scoring and shooting. In either instance, know the course of fire- order of matches, number of shots, time limits, etc. When scoring you are one of the match officials. You have a responsibility to the shooter, and to the match sponsors. As a match official you must be alert, and communicate with other match officials and your shooter.

At matches where target pits are used, the scorer’s position is just to the rear and to the right of a right-handed shooter, and to the left of the shooter who does it from the port side. You must be able to observe both the shooter and the target. You need to be able to see the action of the rifle during firing, and the target while the shooter is moving on and off the line. Call out the shots in slow fire unless told not to do so by the shooter. Call them out clearly: "Mr. Leach, your tenth shot for record is a nine." After a rapid-fire string, call out the number of Xs, 10s, 9s, etc. In addition, the scorer must communicate with the Line Officer if the target is not pulled after a shot or if service is too slow.

Keep in mind that a scorer is not a coach or commentator. The scorer must not give the shooter advice, or call the shots. There is no need for negative comments on the shooter's performance. Every shooter does the best he/she can on that day. Of course, if I shoot one of my rare “clean” targets, please announce it with vigor!

There is an exception to the no coaching rule: if the shooter fires a miss -- completely off the target frame -- and you can see where the shot went you may advise the shooter. This is allowed because wild shots are a safety hazard and may cause scoring problems on other targets. If the target comes back up as an unspotted miss, use your spotting scope to watch the next shot closely for dirt flying outside the usual impact area. Align your spotting scope right over the barrel and watch the supersonic wave trace.

Before recording values on the scorecard, compare the indicated value(s) with the spotter(s). Once in a while they will not agree. If you and the shooter can agree that a slow fire shot scored as an eight is really a nine there is minimum disruption and time loss. If in doubt about a rapid-fire string it is best to have the target re-scored.

When scoring slow fire stay alert- it is poor form to miss a shot! Don't mess with your own gear, or converse with others. During the preparation, loading, firing, reloading and scoring phases of rapid-fire strings watch the shooter, rifle and target action. If there is a problem you need to accurately tell the Line Officer what happened, how many shots were fired, shooter’s actions in clearing a malfunction, etc.

At reduced course matches (all firing at one distance, reduced size targets simulate the longer distances, usually without pits) observe the other shooters on your firing point. Be available for scoring, sighter spotting or target changing duty.

Be ready to move up when your relay is called to the firing line. Organize your gear so you can go to the line in one trip. Try not to crowd adjoining shooters. Set up promptly, so as to not cause delays. Have most of your preparation done ahead of time, so that the "prep period" is available for final adjustments, both mental and physical.

If you finish a slow fire string with several minutes remaining, you may move quietly back off the line without disturbing those still shooting. Leave your gear in place -- making a ruckus by rolling your mat or packing your stool is a real distraction to those still firing. If you finish a rapid-fire string early, just stay in position for the few remaining seconds. These are just matters of common courtesy and safety.

If you have a rifle that consistently flips fired cases on the adjoining shooter you should get a gunsmith to adjust the extractor and ejector. The service rifles are notorious for this problem. The other alternative is to request the right-most firing point on the line.

When cleared by the line officer, move your gear off first, and then play grab brass. Clearing your equipment from the firing point allows the next shooter to begin moving up and helps the match progress smoothly. Put other shooters empty brass beside the nearest number stake. To avoid excessive delays, accept the fact that you may lose a case once in a while. If your next stop is the target pits, move your gear back to the rear of the next firing line, or well off to the side.

When behind the line during firing competitors and spectators should speak in low tones so as to not disturb others. Loud or coarse language is not welcome. A rifle match is great fun, but is definitely not the place for horseplay.

After firing is completed stay around for the awards ceremony, even if you were not a winner that day. The awards at most matches are modest, so we really compete for reasons of personal pride and to earn the respect and recognition of other shooters. Stay to recognize the accomplishments of those who did well. Someday you will earn that recognition. If there is no awards ceremony, politely tell the sponsors you are disappointed.

There are additional benefits to staying around. This is where you learn about gear for sale, and pick up hints from top rank shooters. This is also the place to learn about upcoming matches, and perhaps arrange carpooling and housing.

Effective Highpower Rifle Training Drills

Stewart A. Leach

Colorado Grey Fox

Highpower competitors need to get the most benefit possible for the time and money invested in training. I have found the regime outlined here to be effective. I do this drill once a week on a 200-yard range. Note the emphases on position building and rebuilding, with a minimum number of rounds actually fired. Use the proper target for the stage. If training with a group of people, have someone call the line commands. If alone, at least think through the sequence.

Offhand: Set up gear as usual, do your preparation period in two minutes instead of three, with dry fire snaps. When you can prep in two minutes, the third minute is available for solving problems and relaxing your mind. Alternate 1 round of live fire with 1 round of dry fire for at least twenty-two “shots”. Call all shots, live and dry.

Sitting Rapid-Fire: Set up as usual, do two minute prep. Rise, drop down with empty rifle, close bolt, build position with care, dry fire one shot. Rise, load with one round, drop down, close bolt, build position, fire. Rise, load one, drop, close, build position, fire, reload with one round, rebuild position, fire one. Continue with two plus one rounds, two plus two rounds, and two plus eight rounds, for a total of twenty rounds fired in ten cycles of position building or rebuilding. Match rifle shooters modify number of rounds to suit. Start this series at a slow tempo, taking care to get all aspects of building the position and firing the shot perfect. Pick up the tempo a bit with each set, until the ten round string is fired at a normal pace. When you can shoot a good tight twenty shot group in the course of this drill your record scores will be very good. This drill helps refine your base sight settings.

Prone Rapid Fire: Use same routine as Sitting Rapid fire.

Prone Slow Fire: Use same routine as Offhand, with emphasis on Natural Point of Aim.

For best results, repeat the Offhand routine, or repeat the stage where you felt least confident of your performance. To increase the challenge level for Offhand and Sitting Rapid, use the 300 yard reduced target. To get a good score on the tighter target, you will have to improve the quality of your hold and accuracy of your zeroes and wind adjustments.

When finished, don’t forget to start your brass through the reloading cycle, maintain the rifle, and repack your gear.

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Reloading Rifle Ammunition In Quantity

Stewart A. Leach

Colorado Grey Fox

(This article was written in 1993 for the Boulder Rifle Club and the Colorado State Junior Highpower Team. My thanks to both for this opportunity. Updated several times thru February 2006.)

DISCLAIMER: Reloading and use of reloaded ammunition can be hazardous. Read up on safety procedures and seek competent instruction. Wear safety equipment such as eyeshield and gloves. The author assumes no liability for other persons who may use methods or data in this article.

The task examined is one of handloading large quantities of consistent, high quality rifle ammunition over a period of time. This would be typical of the NRA Highpower competitor. The techniques and methods discussed center around use of a standard single stage reloading press, for the author is not impressed with the results or safety of progressive reloading machines when used for rifle ammo. [February 2000: many shooters are now using progressive reloading machines for the priming, powder charging and bullet seating steps, having first done all the case preparation work with other tooling. See addendum.]

The examples cited will focus on reloading of the 308 Winchester/7.62mm NATO cartridge for use in NRA highpower competition. The same methods, though not loads, apply to loading large quantities of other cartridges. In Colorado the main highpower "season" runs from April through September, with some matches available year round. An active competitor will fire well in excess of 2,500 rounds per year for training and matches.

There are three basic principles to loading consistent, high quality ammunition in quantity. These principles are: consistent loads, consistent components and consistent procedures.

The first task is to settle on a standard load, or loads. Standard loads are made up using the same case, primer, powder charge and bullet time after time, with no tinkering. The point of standard loads is to have ammo that is a known quantity match after match. You need to be able to step to the firing line and know that putting on your standard elevation and windage settings will result in an "X" if you do your part. My practice for 308/7.62NATO used to include a standard short-range load and a standard long-range load. The short-range load was used in all stages of service rifle matches and the two and three hundred yard stages with the match rifle. A few years ago I developed two 308/7.62 service rifle loads, one for 200 and 300 yards with a light bullet, and a 600-yard load with a heavier bullet. The long-range load is still used for 600 yards and up in the match rifle. For across the course competition with 223 Rem/5.56 NATO rifles, at least two loads - with 69 and 80-grain bullets - are needed; many competitors use three loads- 68 or 69 grain bullets at 200 yards, 75 or 77 grains at 300 yards, and 75 or 80 grain bullets at 600 yards.

For the shooter who wants to keep things simple, the loads below are recommended for use across the course. All the usual caveats apply. Read the bold print again.

30-06: Military case (Lake City or IMI), Remington or Winchester standard force large rifle primer, 45.0 grains of IMR 4895 powder, Sierra or Hornaday 168 grain match bullet seated to an overall length of 3.30 inches.

7.62NATO/308 Winchester: Military case (Lake City or IMI), Remington or Winchester standard force large rifle primer, 41.5 grains IMR 4895 powder, Sierra or Hornaday 168 grain match bullet seated to an overall length of 2.82 inches.

5.56NATO/223 Remington: Winchester cases, Remington standard force small rifle primer, 23.0 grains Varget powder, 75 grain Hornaday HPBT bullet seated to an overall length of 2.25 inches. (Rifle barrel must be 1 turn in 9 inches twist or faster for this load.) (Do your own research if you want to use the special heavy low drag bullets for 600-yard loads.)

As we want long case life and minimum resizing effort, the standard loads you develop should lie in the middle of the pressure and velocity ranges for your cartridge. While the low end of the range maximizes case life and eases resizing, it means a more curved trajectory and greater wind drift. The high end of the velocity range is harder on the shooter, the rifle and the cases. The loading manuals published by powder, bullet and tool manufacturers are the best source for load development data. The Sierra manual is especially good, and the Accurate Arms manual has a special section on loading for the service rifles. Sierra has excellent videos on basic and advanced loading techniques. The Reloading Guide published by Precision Shooting magazine has no load data, but is a treasure trove of info on loading techniques for accuracy.

Standard loads should use standard, easily available components- avoid sporadically available exotics such as Lapua brass or Norma powders. Component consistency is important, so buy cases, primers, powder and bullets in large lots. I buy cases in 1000's, primers 5000 at a time, powder in 8-pound containers and bullets in lots of 2000. Cash outlay at the time of purchase is large, but unit cost is much lower.

Additional thoughts on powder selection: Choose a powder known to produce good results for your type of rifle and cartridge. Choose a powder that works easily through your powder meter. In the 308/7.62, this means the finer grained tubular powders such as IMR or Hodgdon 4895, Alliant RL15 and Varget, or ball powders such as WW 748, H380, and AA2520. The Vihtavouri 100 and 500 series powders are rapidly gaining favor for 223/5.56 loadings. Coarser grained powders such as IMR 4064 do not meter as well, though they give fine accuracy when weighed charges are used for long-range loads. When loading for the gas operated service rifles, be sure to stick with medium burn rate powders such as the above; slower powders can cause damage to these rifles.

This memo will not go into loading tools and equipment, save to say that wherever possible use tools which speed up production. Examples are powered case trimmers and magazine type priming tools. Some specific tools are mentioned in the steps below.

Each new case should have the flash hole de-burred and the primer pocket uniformed. These two steps, done only once in the life of the case, contribute a lot to uniform ignition. Additional accuracy enhancing, but time consuming, steps include selecting cases for uniform weight and case neck concentricity and turning necks to uniform thickness.

These are the steps I follow in reloading match ammo. The process is repetitive and progressive, with some rounds at various steps in the cycle. There are always some fired cases, some which have been sized and cleaned, some primed, etc. Try to do things in batches, such as sizing all the fired cases available at one time. Between stages store cases in containers such as #10 cans, the bottoms of gallon milk jugs or gallon-size Zip-Loc™ freezer bags. Use odd moments to make progress in the reloading cycle. For example, while waiting for your carpool, move some of the cases from the sized and cleaned bin to the trimmed bin. I do the final powder charging and bullet seating steps together, in lots of 50 or 100. Try to keep ahead of the ammo use curve, for there always come those periods when there are several matches with little loading time in between.

1. Inspect fired cases for damage such as neck splits or head separations. Also look for cases from some other shooter. Cull these out. Recycle the brass through a scrap metal dealer.

2. Deprime cases, using Lee or RCBS deprime die. I use an RCBS Rockchucker press, with a Case Kicker accessory to reduce handling. Deprime while cleaning solvent soaks in rifle barrel.

3. Clean cases 1 hour in tumbler or vibrating polisher to remove range dirt, partly clean primer pockets, etc.

4. Lube inside case neck and outside of case using brush and pad, respectively. The spray lube offered by Dillon also works very well- brass in a bread sack gets a couple good squirts, then shake, rattle and roll to distribute the lubricant. With a carbide expander in the sizing die, only the outside needs lubrication.

5. Size. Set up size die using RCBS or Mo's precision case micrometer. Leave this die set up for reloading en masse; get another die for other rifles or tinkering around. If you change brand of brass, or use the same brass for many loadings, you may need to reset the sizing die.

6. Clean cases in polisher 2-3 hours to remove sizing lube. Use fine corn cob media, and add 2-3 tablespoons of mineral spirit. Cases do not need to be shiny, just clean. Sizing lubricant may also be removed by a solvent bath, or boiling in a weak dishwasher detergent and water solution.

7. Separate cases from media; use an awl to clear media from primer pockets and flash holes. The two trips through the tumbler usually clean the primer pocket sufficiently, but check a few and clean all if necessary. I clean every pocket, every time, using a pocket-truing tool mounted in an RCBS Case Prep Center.

8. Trim to length, if needed. If trimmed, chamfer inside and outside of case mouth. Powered trimmers are available, as are cutters that trim and chamfer in one operation. With the Gracey power trimmer and Giraud cutter blade I trim and chamfer every case, every time.

9. Seat primers using Lee Auto Prime or similar tool. Wear eye-shield and gloves. Check each to see that primer is in right side up, and seated to correct depth. Primers should seat flush with, or slightly below the surface of the case head. Cull out any case where the primer seems to slip in with no effort at all. If you don't, some day a loose primer will jam your rifle during an important match.

10. Charge with powder. Develop a consistent rhythm in using the powder meter in order to dump consistent charges. Tap the handle lightly against the stop at least three times on the fill stroke, waiting a moment before the last tap. Tap twice on the empty stroke. This allows the metering chamber to fill consistently, and dislodges any remaining powder kernels on emptying. Charging a full tray of 50 or 60 cases at a time encourages consistent metering technique. When changing powder lots, verify the charge weight. For long-range loads, meter a slightly short charge into the scale pan, then trickle up to weight.

11. Seat bullets. Set up seating dies using a Stoney Point Over-All-Length gauge. If ammo will be used in two rifles, seat for the one with the shorter throat or magazine. I keep short and long-range dummy rounds in the die box to speed seating die set up. Some shooters keep seating dies set up for their mass loadings, using another die for other loading. The Redding micrometer adjustable Competition Seating Die simplifies seated length adjustments. When changing bullet lots, verify the overall length. Rapid-fire ammo that won't fit the magazine is embarrassing. If loading far ahead of use, seat bullets about .050” long, then finish seating just before use. This helps ensure consistent neck tension. Don’t forget to reseat!

12. Label loaded rounds with colored marker on case head. I use different colors for short, medium and long-range loads. This also helps you get your cases back. I put 308’s in a 50 round 30-06 size box bullet down, then run the marker across the rows of case heads. The RCBS ammo box in 223/5.56 holds nose down rounds in a stable manner for marking.

13. Package in useable quantities. Label the package with date and loading data. Plastic ammo boxes are very convenient, and help maintain bullet alignment. Pint size freezer weight Zip-Loc ™ bags hold 50 rounds of 308/7.62 or 100 rounds of 223/5.56. The label slips inside.

14. Store loaded ammo in a cool, dry, safe place. Avoid storing in car trunk or other hot places. I rotate ammo, using the oldest dated packages first. For an 80 shot service rifle match I take 100 rounds of the short-range load and 25 rounds of the 600-yard load. With sighters, 66 rounds of short-range and 22 rounds of long-range will be fired. The extras are insurance against refires or additional sighters. The remaining rounds go in slack boxes or bags that are used for training as soon as 50 or more rounds accumulate.

15. Start the fired cases through the cycle again. I treat de-priming and cleaning as though it were part of the rifle maintenance and gear repacking process.

R:050329

Addendum: Progressive or Multi-Stage Reloading Match Ammunition

Progressive or multi-stage reloading machines are increasingly used by NRA Highpower Rifle competitors for preparing match ammunition, especially if shooting the 223/5.56 round. One many-time national champion loads his 200 and 300 yard ammo on a progressive, the United States Army Marksmanship Unit did the same until they switched to commercial ammo for the short ranges, and ammo for the International Palma Championships was done on progressives. John Feamster, a careful analyst, got smaller 60 shot groups with his progressively loaded short-range ammo than with his single stage loads. Most still load their long-range ammo in the single stage manner, though some do long range loads on the machine, but substitute weighed propellant charges for machine thrown. Those who load progressively overwhelmingly prefer the Dillon machines, particularly the 550B model, over those from Lee, RCBS and Hornaday. Some modifications are made to the Dillon machines, including taper reaming and polishing the funnel area of the powder metering system, making the powder meter fingertip adjustable, and surface grinding the bottom of the shell plate to reduce slop. Get to really know your machine before making any modifications.

Actually, the method used should be called "semi-progressive" or "interrupted progressive" loading, for the process starts on the machine, side steps for case preparation, then returns to the machine for a fast finish. Brass cleaned in the polisher to remove range dirt is sized and de-primed on the machine, then goes off line for lube removal, trimming/chamfering/de-burring, and primer pocket cleaning. Some remove each case by hand, others allow the cases to go around the cycle with the priming and powder metering functions disabled. The cases return to the machine for primer seating, powder charging and bullet seating. Reports are that best results come from progressing at medium speed; a slam-bang-crank 'em out as fast as possible approach reduces consistency. The best set up I have seen features the Redding bushing-type full-length sizing die, and Redding Competition Seating Die.

2/17/2003 Note: I have been using a Dillon 550B for over a year now, and have a few observations. Case prep (sizing, trimming, etc.) is still done single stage style. The Dillon is used to prime, charge, seat and crimp. Die stations are set up with a de-prime die to be sure flash holes are clear, a powder die with taper reamed and polished funnel, a Redding micrometer seater, and finally a Dillon taper crimp die set to just kiss the neck edge. Observe the priming operation every cycle- once in a while a primer may be upside down, a rather embarrassing way to earn an alibi string. Ball-type powders meter most easily and consistently, followed by fine grained stick powders such as Hodgdon H4895 and Alliant Reloder 15. Varget, Accurate 2495 and IMR 4895 don’t meter quite as consistently. With the new style powder meter, a little tension from a rubber band linking the meter body to the powder bar post gives more consistent cycling. Tests showed more consistent charges were thrown when the operating handle was gently tapped twice at each end of the stroke. The powder bar needs to be cleaned and lubed in-place every once in a while using just a bit of silicone spray on a cotton swab. I use a toothbrush and rubber ear syringe to neaten up around & under the shell plate every fifty rounds. I found the low-primer and low-powder alarms worthwhile. It’s hard to admit, but I should have gone progressive years ago.

Care, Cleaning and Basic Maintenance

Of The

M-14/M1A Rifle

Stewart A. Leach

Colorado Grey Fox

(This article was written for members and prospective members of the Colorado State Junior Highpower Rifle Team. Many of the procedures described apply to the M1 Garand Rifle, grandfather of the M-14 and M1A, and to other rifles. CAUTION: Bore cleaners and other products may contain chemicals injurious to human health. Use only in well-ventilated areas, avoid skin contact, and wear eye protection.

The M-14 and M1A rifles are engineering marvels, able to function well under difficult conditions. However, your rifle will function best, and help you perform best, if it receives proper care, cleaning and maintenance. Proper care extends the useful life of the rifle, and the close examination of parts will identify problems before they become serious.

Care means protecting the rifle- from damage, prying eyes, tampering and theft. Team members take their rifles home, and good care starts when you get there. Carry the rifle to/from your vehicle in the gun case. Be discrete about who you show it to- friends talk, and gossip can grow into wild tales. If possible, keep the rifle locked up in a vault while at home. At least keep it in a closet or other out of sight location.

When the rifle is in a vehicle keep it out of sight. In the car trunk is best; if in the passenger area lay it on the floor and cover it up. Don't leave the rifle alone in a vehicle any longer than absolutely necessary.

At matches protect the rifle from damage or tampering by keeping it in the case as much as possible. Keep the rifle up off the ground so dirt does not get kicked inside, and keep the rifle safe from being dropped or falling.

Listed below are tools, supplies and procedures for every day maintenance, periodic maintenance and special conditions maintenance. An important concept to keep in mind is that the rifle should not be disassembled any more than is necessary for the level of maintenance truly needed. Each time the barrel/action assembly is removed from the stock the bedding suffers a little damage, so this should not be done any more often than necessary.

Tools Needed

Cleaning cradle or padded vise to hold rifle

Safety block or stripper clip to hold action open

Cleaning rod- Parker-Hale or Dewey type

Cleaning rod guide

Bronze bore brushes- 30 caliber and 45 caliber

Plastic bore brush or bore mop- 30 caliber

Patch tip for cleaning rod- spear or wrap around type

Tooth brush

Gas cylinder wrench

Gas plug wrench/combo tool

Gas system cleaning drills

Chamber brush

Pin punch- 1/8"

Supplies Needed

Powder solvent- Hoppe's, Shooter's Choice, etc.

Copper solvent- Sweet's 7.62, Shooter's Choice, Hoppe's

Gun grease- Shooter's Choice, Plastilube, Rig, Lubriplate

Light lubricant- Breakfree, etc.

Spray carburetor cleaner- Gumout, STP, Gun Scrubber

Patches

Cotton Swabs

Rags

Everyday Cleaning and Maintenance

After every shooting session perform the following operations:

1. Put the rifle in the cradle or vise upside down, with muzzle sloping down slightly. This keeps solvent from draining into the action and affecting the bedding. Open the action, and block it open with the safety block or clip. This prevents damage to the cleaning rod and your fingers.

2. Use the rod, guide, patch holder, patch and powder solvent to push a wet patch through the bore to remove loose fouling. Slip the guide on the rod, seat and wet the patch with solvent, push through bore after aligning guide and remove patch at breech. Do this twice.

3. Use rod, guide and brush to loosen fouling. Wet the brush with powder solvent using a squeeze bottle, then clean with ten strokes, wiping the rod with a rag each stroke. Let stand for 4-5 minutes.

While waiting, use the toothbrush to clean the front and rear sights and bolt face. Use a cotton swab and a bit of rag to clean out locking lug recesses, op rod hump, rear of barrel and tracks in action.

Patch the bore dry.

4. Repeat #3, but this time while waiting clean chamber with chamber brush and patch, and relubricate lugs, recesses and tracks. Patch the bore dry.

5. Apply copper solvent to bore with plastic bristle brush or mop. Apply liberally, and allow to soak for 5-10 minutes. While waiting remove trigger assembly and clean hammer and trigger hooks with cotton swab and rag. Also clean the trough on top of the hammer, hammer face and safety notch. Relubricate hooks very sparingly with light oil. Put a little grease in the hammer trough and on the safety notch. Patch the bore dry.

6. Repeat #5, this time cleaning the gas system. Hold both gas cylinder and lock at the same time with the special wrench while removing the plug with the combo tool. Shake out the piston, and clean with the toothbrush. Gently clean the inside of the piston and plug with the drills. Clean the inside of the cylinder with a few strokes of a dry 45-caliber brush. Reassemble- the flat side of the piston goes toward the barrel. Put a small dot of grease on the rear of the piston. Snug the plug up tight to the register marks, using both wrenches, but don't force.

Repeat cleaning bore with copper solvent until the first patch comes out clean. Use the waiting time to check over the stock and sling, repack your shooting stool, etc. Finish with a patch wet with carb cleaner, cleaning and dry patching the barrel and chamber to remove copper solvent traces.

Periodic Maintenance

After every 7-10 firing sessions the rifle needs a really good cleaning of the receiver, bolt assembly, op rod and trigger group. This is to remove built up dirt and grime, and to allow inspection for wear and damage. This should not be done too often. Take the rifle apart into the trigger, action/barrel and stock assemblies. Remove the op rod and bolt, and then really clean the inside of the action with toothbrush and powder solvent. Flush out with brake cleaner spray. Do the same to the bolt assembly, and clean out the inside of the hump on the op rod. Clean and flush the trigger group. Lubricate and reassemble. Also disassemble and clean your magazines. This would be a good time to use a very light application of neatsfoot oil or Glovolium on your sling. If the sling keepers have stretched and loosened up a lot, run them through the washer and dryer with your jeans, and order new keepers. Use a vacuum cleaner to remove dust from inside your gun case.

Special Conditions

If shooting in dusty conditions (Whittington, Colorado Rifle Club, etc.) remove as much grease and oil as possible before firing. Lubricants capture grit, forming a kind of abrasive paste. Keep the rifle cased when not firing. After firing perform the periodic maintenance routine, with emphasis on flushing out with solvent. Don't forget to clean out the magazines.

If the rifle gets rained or snowed on, tear it down, wipe dry and relubricate. Be sure to elevate and dry the rear sight assembly, and dry the inside of the stock. If possible, leave disassembled for a day or so to promote drying. To avoid rusting, store the rifle outside the case for several days.

Special Instructions Regarding Moly- Coated Bullets

Many shooters are using bullets coated with molybdenum disulphide lubricant. A different barrel-cleaning regime is required. Patch twice using a penetrating oil such as Kroil or Marvel Mystery Oil. Brush 10-15 strokes using nylon brush and penetrating oil. Patch dry. Every 300-400 rounds, clean using special mild abrasive compound cleaners such as JB, RemClean or IOSSO. Wrap a patch around a worn out bore brush, saturate with abrasive cleaner, work full length 10-15 strokes, with 4-5 extra short strokes just ahead of the chamber. Clean again with penetrating oil to remove compound. It will take a few shots to rebuild moly in barrel and return to zero.

Targeting The M1, M14 and M16 Service Rifles

Stewart A. Leach

Colorado Grey Fox

Targeting is the process of adjusting the front sight of an M1, M14 or M16 service rifle (or their civilian equivalents) so that the shooter can get the most benefit from the adjustability of the rear sight. It is not the same as sighting in or getting “zeroes” (I prefer the term “standard sight settings”). The objective is to center up the shot group with an optimum elevation setting and the windage set at mechanical center. Targeting should be done with a new rifle, when a new barrel is installed or when starting to use a significantly different load. In this article the M1 and M14 rifles are addressed first; the M16 is targeted using the same basic procedures, but with a few special considerations as discussed in an added section.

Targeting is best done at two hundred yards on a calm day. In addition to the M1 or M14/M1A rifle and your standard target load you will need the following:

Allen wrench to fit sight locking screw(s) Nail polish or paint pen (white or red)

Narrow fine cut metal file New front sight, or one that is quite high

Dial caliper Ruler or tape measure

Light hammer Targets, stapler and pasters

Brass or nylon tipped drift punch Cleaning cradle or vise to hold rifle

The adjustments to front sight height and lateral position could be done on a trial and error basis. Just shoot and file, or shoot and move. The method described here uses a dial caliper to save considerable time and ammunition.

We will adjust the front sight for elevation first, and then deal with the windage setting. Hang a big target, or a large backing sheet with a target centered or just above center. Install the new full height front sight approximately centered on the pedestal on the gas cylinder or flash suppressor. Fire a few shots from a good solid supported prone position, adjusting the rear sight to get more or less centered hits. Be sure to use good sight alignment. Paste the holes.

Run the rear sight elevation knob all the way down, and come back up 6 minutes, which is six clicks on most rifles. This is so we can still lower the rear sight to shoot 100 yard matches, or use ammo with a much higher point of impact than our standard load. A few years ago I found IVI ball ammo we were using for practice hit 2-3 minutes higher than my handloads. Fire a careful five shot group, which we expect will strike quite low on the target or backing paper.

Go down range and mark the center of the group. Measure (don’t guess, measure!) the vertical distance in inches from the group center to the target center. Now do a little math to calculate the amount we must shorten the front sight blade. Multiply the number of inches from group center to target center by .008” and divide by the number of hundreds of yards from rifle to target.

Example: If the group center is 20 inches low at 200 yards the equation looks like this:

(20”)(.008”) = .080” (the amount to take off the top of the front sight)

2

Using the dial caliper like a depth micrometer, measure the height of the front sight blade. First, place the bar end of the caliper against a flat surface, slide the rod or wire to contact and re-zero the dial. Then, resting the end of the bar against the top rear of the post, move the rod to contact between the bottom of the post and the protective wing and read the height. Subtract the adjustment to get the final desired height.

Using the file, slowly remove metal from the top of the sight post. Keep the top square as viewed from the rear, and create a slight slope from rear to front. Work slowly, avoiding contact with the wings on either side. A file with safe (no teeth) edges is a convenience; the file edges or the wings can also be masked with tape. For best results position the rifle with cleaning cradle or sand bags while filing.

Measure progress frequently. When close to final calculated height, fire more groups and fine-tune a few light strokes at a time. It is better to finish with the front sight a bit too tall than too short. When done refinish the raw surface with cold bluing.

Now to the windage. Center the rear sight by cranking the windage knob until the single indicator notch on the moveable sight base is aligned with the long notch in the center of the row of notches on the receiver. Fire another good five shot group and measure the horizontal distance to target center.

Do the same math to find the amount we need to move the front sight laterally. Use the dial caliper as a depth mike again, but in the horizontal position this time. Measure from the side of the pedestal on the gas cylinder or flash suppressor to the bottom of the sight itself, and calculate the final setting. Remember, as we are working at the business end of the rifle we move the sight in the opposite direction from how we want the group to move on the target. To move the group left, move the front sight to the right.

The easiest way to get close to is to set and lock the caliper at the desired final measurement, loosen the sight clamping screw and then move the sight to contact. Tighten the screw carefully and fire another group. Usually this group will be within one or two clicks of dead center. If more than four clicks off, measure and adjust again.

The last thing to do is mark the front and rear sights with nail polish or a paint pen. Before proceeding, use alcohol and clean paper towels to degrease the front sight and pedestal, sight mounting area of the receiver, sight base, and windage knob. Mark a single vertical line about one-eighth inch wide on the front side of the front sight from the gas cylinder or flash suppressor up onto the bottom of the sight. This will aid in relocating the sight if it ever comes loose.

On the rear sight we will make several marks, one for elevation management and the rest for telling us where we are windage-wise. The elevation mark applies only if your rifle is equipped with the one-half minute rotating hood. Paint a narrow stripe from the notch in the rear rim of the hood to the front. This makes it easier to note whether the hood is in the up or down position.

Fill the notches on the sight base and receiver with paint or nail polish. Apply lightly, wait a few minutes and wipe off the surface, leaving color in the notches. Next, with the sight at mechanical zero, mark two narrow vertical lines on the back of the rear sight, one at each side. Start on the receiver, and continue the lines up onto the sight base. Finally, start a line at 9:00 o’clock on the right ear of the receiver and continue out across the serrations of the windage knob, around the corner and across the face of the knob to the center. These large, sharply contrasting marks are easier to read than the notches on the base and receiver.

Get new zeroes with your standard match load, write ‘em down, and proceed to favor center!

-oOo-

The M16 and its many civilian clones are both easier and harder to target than the earlier designs. Targeting for elevation is simple if the rifle is equipped with the A1-type round post with five detent notches in the flange, or the A2-type square front post with four notches. Each A1 notch represents approximately 1 minute of elevation change, about 2 inches at 200 yards. The A2 adjusts in approximately 1.25 minute increments, or 2.5 inches at 200 yards. Clockwise rotation raises point of impact. Front sight posts that have been tapered on the sides and top to present a sharper profile should only be adjusted in full 360-degree rotations, which will result in nearly five minutes of change. Finer elevation adjustments will have to be done M1/M14 style, with a file. Target for center hits at 200 yards with the rear sight three to four minutes above bottom when using your standard short-range load.

Windage targeting can present a problem. If the front sight base is attached to the barrel with two tapered cross pins, then no targeting is possible. You just have to hope the sight base is installed close to where it needs to be. Most are. Many custom service rifle builders modify the sight base by eliminating the pins and using setscrews to allow windage targeting by rotation of the base around the barrel. Some use two screws bearing vertically against the bottom of the barrel. Due to the short sight radius of these rifles, and the sight line being way above the barrel, minuscule amounts of rotation will cause a lot of displacement on the target. The math of irregular conical shapes is complex, so just slightly loosen the screws, tap the top of the sight base very gently, tighten and shoot until things are centered up. Another method drills and taps the taper-pin holes so that there are opposing pairs of set-screws. To adjust point of impact, very slightly loosen one side, and very slightly tighten the opposing screws. When finished, use wicking grade LocTite ™ on the screws and between the barrel and sight base. It wouldn’t hurt to scribe register marks on the base and barrel in case things come loose.

Mark the elevation wheel with a dot or vertical stripe aligned with the roll pin when the elevation is set at one click above the lowest setting. Mark the top of the windage knob when windage is set at mechanical zero, e.g., the notch in the aperture aligned with the middle mark on the base.

Using Once-Fired Military Brass

Stewart A. Leach

Colorado Grey Fox

Every NRA Highpower shooter is tempted to use the once-fired 30-06, 7.62/308 and 5.56/223 military brass advertised in magazines and catalogs. The price is usually low compared with virgin commercial cases, and it somehow seems right to use GI brass in a service rifle. There are a few things to know about military brass before you start using it for competition, and I’d like to offer a few hints and tips.

Military brass is available from various sources, and in various conditions. Dealers actually package by weight, so the box or bag may be a few rounds short or long. Cheapest will be standard NATO ball cases, straight from the training ranges. It will be dirty, some cases will be damaged, and may be from mixed lots or several makers. It may have been fired in rifles or machine guns. As price goes up, so does quality- cleaner, sorted by headstamp, etc. The highest grade is once fired GI match brass, which will have been fired in rifles, and has no primer crimp. GI 7.62/308 match is getting scarce as military competitors switch to the M16.

Keep in mind that military 7.62/308 and 30-06 cartridge cases contain more metal than commercial cases. GI 30 caliber cases weigh 7 to 10% more than civilian brass; the extra metal is found in the rear third of the case. This means less internal volume, and powder charges need to be reduced to avoid excessive pressure. There is little difference between military and commercial 223Rem/5.56NATO brass.

Some dealers sell brass that has been "processed"- tumble cleaned, de-primed, and the primer retaining crimp removed. While this saves some work, I have seen a batch of 5.56/223 where the primer pocket was reamed too deeply, leaving the new primer unsupported for half its depth. Better to do the work yourself. [2/17/2003 Note: I am truly impressed with ready-to-load recycled 223 brass from and .]

Assuming we have a batch of NATO ball cases, here are the steps to get it ready for use:

Inspect the cases, and throw out any with serious damage to mouth or rim. True up out-of-round case mouths with a tapered punch, such as a nail set, so they will enter the sizing die smoothly.

De-prime with a Lee or RCBS de-prime die. Then clean well in tumbler or vibratory cleaner for several hours. All the dirt and grit must be removed to avoid damage to sizing dies.

If the cases were fired in a loose-chambered rifle, or a machine gun, a regular sizing die may not reduce the base diameter enough to chamber in your rifle. The thicker web and case walls spring back more than civilian cases. We usually don't know what sort of gun or guns the brass came from, so it's best to return each case to minimum dimensions before loading and firing the first time in your rifle. Lube the cases well, inside and out, and size in a special small base die. I share small base dies with other shooters. Clean again to remove sizing lube. Trim to length, then chamfer and deburr case mouths.

Ream or swage out the primer crimp. Reaming cuts away the crimp, using an inexpensive hand tool. Reaming carelessly can result in an oversize or oval pocket. Swaging moves metal out of the way, and slightly work hardens the pocket area. Swaging tools (RCBS is awkward but adequate, Dillon is superb) are more costly and complex, but once adjusted do a better job than reaming. Share a Dillon tool among several shooters. Use a case mouth chamfer tool to put a light chamfer on the pocket to ease entry of the new primer.

For best results, use a flash-hole reamer to remove internal burrs. A primer pocket uniformer will also help insure consistent ignition by making the pockets of equal depth, and flat on the bottom.

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