Date: Fri, 21 Dec 2001 22:18:55 -0500



Borg & Beck parts ( now AP> Lockeed)

NOS (New Old Stock) parts for your D.B and post-war Panhards.  Call Jean Martel at French Stuff, 818-244-2498.

From: David Jacobs

Subject: PCV followup

The vacuum fitting for the manifold was the hardest to find. The one I bought (Autozone) is a 3/8" IF to 3/8" hose, fuel line fitting. Don't ask me what IF means, I'm just copying this off the bubblepack. It is definitely not a 3/8" pipe thread (it's not tapered). The one I bought didn't have a gasket surface on it, so I used Hylomar on the threads.

There seem to be a lot of inline PCVs that will work. Look for one with a 3/8" tubing fitting on one side and 1/2" on the other. There should be a flat metal surface visible inside the 1/2" end--that means the other end is the vacuum end, which goes toward the manifold. The 1/2" end goes toward the tee in the valve cover. The rear air cleaner hose inlet then gets plugged.

engine treatment swindle



From: "Gerald Van Vlack"

Subject: Re: early O/D rebuild

Like others have said go to nelson's site. It doesn't get much better than that.

You of course will be doing the gearbox too I suppose. The things to look for are how tough it is to remove the circlip holding the second and third gears to the mainshaft as well as to very closely look at all of the bushings and thrust washers for wear. Inspect the 2nd gear bush (The Top Hat Bushing as it's referred to) very closely as it will most likely be cracked around the flange. Apply some pressure to the flange and see if it pulls away from the bush itself. Look for a tell tale line which is likely a crack, in the end I would replace it regardless as sometimes the crack is there and can not be easily seen. Of course inspect the syncro cups and check for clearance. Another important thing to inspect closely would be the bearings and shaft for the countergear assembly. I would further suggest buying your repair parts from Quantumechanics - His parts are top quality and I have found them to be competitively priced too. In my Opinion you can trust his Synco cups to be correct too. Some are not as good.

With regard to the O/D again carefully inspect all of the thrust washers and bronze bushings for fit and wear. Be careful when you pull the one way clutch that fits inside the annulus as there are rollers that can drop and go to that place in everyone's shop that grabs these things never to be found again. During reassembly, be very careful to follow all of the instructions regarding offering the O/D back up to the gearbox. Check the straightness of the adaptor plate to trans surface as well as the plate to O/D surface. If warped this can be a major leak source.

William Ashley Southgate" ashleys@es.co.nz

.A trick also is to put a flexable exhaust joint about 7" long straight after the headers,this takes out a lot of rumble.

obsolete@ used part in Canada

I'm working on putting an Alt on my TR3 right now, I bought a pulley that fits the wide Belt and the GM alternator. I am using a Ford Fiesta alt. and the pulley I bought fits fine. The problem I've found is that the #24,,, (24/64ths) wide belt which is correct for the pulley does not come in the correct length that will allow my alt to tighten the belt before it hits the inner fender.

SO,, I have found that a #22 (22/64ths) belt that is NAPA # 22363 fits fine but goes into the groove of the pulleys a little further,, but not too far. I haven't made the top bracket yet, but I think everything else is working out fine so far. Let me how your conversion is coming along,,

KENT SHRACK '60 TR3a,, RHD

Rob,

If you have a post 1973 TR6 gearbox, it's pretty much plug and play. You need

- a J-type OD interface to bolt on the back on the gearbox which you have to buy used

- a J-type OD from a volvo manual transmission. If it is a late Volvo, it will not have the speedometer gear because late ones have electrical speedo.

- a J-type overdrive gearbox mainshaft

- a couple of switches to bolt on the gearbox cover. You can buy them new and the Bentley manual tells you haw to set them to the right high.

- a relay

a) you dismantle your box

b) you transfer of the gears on the mainshaft to the OD main shaft

c) you drill and tap the cover for the switches

d) you put the box together

e) you wire the electricals as per the shop manual

f) you enjoy the OD box

If you have an earlier tranny (TR4, TR250 and pre-1973 TR6), you have an incompatibility beween the "spigot" at the front end of the mainshaft and the bearing cage on the input shaft. Contact me to solve this one if you need to.

Francois

Date: Wed, 2 Apr 2003 12:59:55 -0800 (PST)

From: Chris Kantarjiev

Subject: Re: High Performance Brake kits

> I'd like to make the brakes on my TR3A as good as (reasonably)

> possible. In scanning the Moss USA catalogue, I noticed that they

> offer a High Performance Brake kit with slotted, cross-drilled

rotors

> that they claim is compatible with TR3A through TR6.

All they'll really do is lighten your wallet. If they don't increase

the

swept area, they're not appreciably changing your braking

performance.

The way to go is the Toyota truck caliper swap that was pioneered by John Lye and Lee Janssen. See

Combine with stainless/teflon lines for the best possible pedal feel -you're going to have to do some plumbing adaptation anyway. You cansee



for some words of wisdom in that regard; Pegasus racing has the parts you need and their catalog has the instructions for putting the hoses together.

From: "Randall Young"

Subject: RE: TR3A restrictor valve question

I get the feeling that my car (TR3A) doesn't roll as freely as it should and I suspect the restrictor valve in the brake line isn't letting go enough. Do I remember correctly that I can remove the innards of this valve with minimal impact on breaking abilities?

As with any modification to a safety-critical system like brakes, you're taking a chance. Triumph-Standard had a valid reason for adding the restrictor valve.

That said, the worst that can happen without it is that the brake pedal may be lower than usual after some spirited driving. I took the innards out of my valve almost 20 years ago, and I've never had to pump the pedal to get brakes (for this reason anyway ). But, it could happen.

It's my belief that the valve is supposed to add a detectable amount of rolling resistance, but I can't prove that offhand. ISTR reading it was supposed to hold 4 psi, which would translate to about 12 lbf at the pads. On my car, it was enough to hold it on a very slight grade, but the effect would lessen as you drove without using the brakes. But I've no idea if it was working properly or not, I just know that I like it gone!

Date: Sat, 5 Apr 2003 00:27:08 EST

From: ZinkZ10C@

Subject: Re: Electric Fan Control

In a message dated 4/4/2003 10:31:04 PM Eastern Standard Time,

MotoPsyche@ writes:

> do you use a thermostatic switch

> to control the fan, or did you hook up a manual on/off switch

A thermo switch is much better since it is automatic. Get a hot

light switch

from a GM or Ford car ( most any year from 60's to recent ) Chryslers

have

always ( at least back to 55) had temp gauges so that sensor won't

work.

The GM switch you want has a 1/4 tab for a wire and a small ( 3/32)

hole

covered with paint. Scrape the paint from the hole and you will find

a

slotted screw. Turning the screw clockwise will cause the switch to

come on

at a lower temperature.

The Ford switch has a threaded wire terminal with either a slot on

top or

flats. Turning the screw clockwise will lower the turn on temp.

Use this switch to ground the coil of a relay. The Bosch cube relays

are

just great for this since they have 1/4 pushon terminals. Be sure to

get a

good one though, many places sell junk copies.

The other end of the coil needs switched 12V+ if you want the fan to

run only

when the key is on. Use constant battery power if you want the fan

to run

with a hot motor that is shut off. This trick can reduce fuel

boilover after

a hard run. If your battery is any good this won't be a problem.

One contact of the relay goes to the + side of the fan. ( use

contacts that

are normaly open) The other contact goes to a fuse then to constant

battery

power. Place the fuse ( or a fusible link) as close to the battery

as

possible.

The temp sensor can be threaded into most any water jacket though a

block

drain is probably the least desirable location.

Turn the temp screw a couple of turns clockwise then experiment a

bit.

A second switch like this can be a great early warning light. I added one to my 77 Chevy truck. The factory gauges are still intact but don't catch your eye like a light.( the light is even integrated in to the existing warning cluster, also added a oil light as well.)

The switch does not turn on in normal driving. During a long uphill pull ( 3 miles) towing a box trailer the light will turn on at the top. Also after a highway run the light will be on for a min on a hot restart. With this setup a small loss of cooling capacity will be noticed long before any damage is done. All this stuff can be made from junkyard parts for $ 5 - 10.

Harold

From: Darrell Walker

Subject: Triumph Accessory Brochure Scans

I recently won an accessory brochure on ebay, and I've posted scans:



Call either of these 2 places, about $800.00 for a working "A" type unit.

bmcltd@ 1-270-825-2994 Paul Ogelsby in Kentucky or Bill Broome in S.C. 1-803=754=5363 "FT"

The wire trick (liners)

Jack Drews:

Mordy Dunst of Gasketworks can make fig 8 gaskets in almost any thickness. I have made them by purchasing brass shim stock from a hardware store and cutting them out with tin snips or old scissors. Works fine. Remember, though, that if you put gasket sealant on the fig 8's, the total

liner protrusion will grow by about .004. Personally I wouldn't worry about them only being .002 to .003.

By the way, if you want to do the copper wire bit, you don't need to solder anything. Just use super glue in little drops, putting it on about every 1-1/2" or so, on the topes of the liners. I do it to every engine that I build. Works great.

BOB KRAMER"

Don't forget that there are differences between figure 8 gaskets from different sources. I think the steel ones from Victoria British are something like 14 to 15 thou and the stock copper ones were closer to 17/18thou. (I had these measurements at one time). If you are using the steel ones, order the others. It'll be cheaper,

Hi Francois :

As I recall, it was fairly small (.020" is what sticks in my head) bare "half-hard" copper wire, which I got from McMaster-Carr. If I get a moment, I'll try to dig up the spool this weekend and tell you what's on it. I just shined up the head gasket and started laying wire around each cylinder opening, about 1/8" back from the opening, tacking it with solder wherever it seemed necessary. The ends were butted together, and sealed with solder. I actually considered laying a continuous fillet of solder, but decided it probably wasn't necessary, and so far it appears I was right.

Ken Gillanders suggested using Superglue instead of solder, but I felt solder was easier. I used ordinary 'electronics' 60/40 rosin core solder.

Worked so well I even took a chance and reused the head gasket when Ichanged heads in 2001, and so far it's still sealing (although I've probably only driven a few thousand miles since then).

Randall

Jack Drews

I use 26 AWG (American Wire Gauge) soft copper wire -- it is about .015 or .016 diameter. You can purchase .020 tinned copper wire at Radio Shack but I get my .015 through McMaster-Carr in Chicago, the world's bet hardware source. Great website and search capabilities.

I glue a circle of it to the tops of the liners. Cut to approximate length, put a tiny drop of super glue down, hold wire in it for a few seconds, then go on to the next one. It doesn't take very long -- not a half hour for all four cylinders. Start and end in a position most remote from water jacket holes.

If you use a stock sandwich-type gasket, put the solid (not seamed) side down against the wire for added insurance. The ends of the wire can be overlapped 1/8 to 1/4". It does not leak there.

I just took apart my race engine today. I had assembled it this way. It is hard to seal - 12.5 to 1 compression ratio, chamfered liners, head milled within a few thou of its life, etc. The wires had made a very nice indentation in the head gasket and the seal was perfect.

I also use Gaskacinch for coating the entire gasket, although there are a lot of opinions on gasket sealer. Follow directions meticulously. Clean everything with Lacquer thinner before applying.

My son Tony and I took my race car to the chassis dyno shop today to try some exhaust system variations and to try an experimental head. We ran several runs on my car in the condition in which it finished the season, trying several exhaust configurations. Then we changed the head and ran an experimental head. Gruelling day but really fun.

That's that trak I am on now: I am converting a STD trany to J-type OD. The price:

TR4 tranny : $100

J-type OD : $ 5 (Paid $50 for Volvo OD tranny,

sold it w/o OD for $45!)

Used OD main shaft : $ 80 Joe Esposito

Used OD adaptor : $ 70 Joe Esposito

New synchros : $ 33

Gasket set : $ 12

TR6 input shaft : free

TR6 constant gear : $ 37 TRF

Trust washers, bushings:+/-$ 60

lipseals ±$ 8

OD switched for top cover: $ 24

Angle drive for speedo : $ 38

2 pins (gearbox forks) : $ 15

--------

$482

Right now I only problem remaining, is the connexion of the angle

drive to the gear box. The thread on the Volvo side in not compatible

with the one on the angle drive and I will have to make an adaptor.

Between about $500 and $2000 there is a quite a difference and I am

glad I dared venturing on the full custom route.

Date: Thu, 20 Mar 2003 17:14:17 -0500

From: Ted Schumacher

Subject: compression ratios, su's and other stuff

Hello list. Sorry to bomb the lists. Awhile back, there was some discussion on SU's vs Strombergs. Here is a simple answer. The Stromberg was used because it was a simple, already in-house carb that would be USA emission legal. Since it is basically a sealed unit with minimal adjustment range, it would not be capable of being "messed with" and thus remian EPA compliant. The Stromberg has a fixed main jet (which is also non-replaceable) with a very small selection of metering needles. In the case of the 175CD carb, you can choose from possibly 10 different needles. The HS6 SU, on the other hand, has 4 different main jets - .090", .100", .110" and .125" - which are replaceable. There are also many needles to choose from for each jet size. This allows you to tailor the carb to your cam, compression, altitude, etc without trying to compromise. Since the Stromberg is sealed or basically non-adjustable, the choice is fairly simple.

Compression ratio determination Be sure to add 3 cc's for the head gasket volume. All you need is a milliliter burrette and a level. Level the head on the bench and fill the chamber with liquid - we use acetone because it's easy to clean up with no residue. That gives V2. Fill the cylinder with acetone and determine V1. How much compression is "safe"? With today's fuels, we limit CR to 9.5 on cast iron engines. It used to be the same octame - 93 - would allow you to safely run around 11:1 with stock cast pistons. Today's fuel burns very hot - it's a method of making sure they limit the unburned gasses going ou the tail pipe. Because of these high burn temperatures and the increased pressure of higher compression. the cast pistons really get stressed. This can result in piston damage. Forged pistons can be used but this raises the cost .

Ted Schumacher, tedtsimx@,

From: Dave Massey

Subject: Speedometer cable for overdrive

As I said yesterday, I can't get the standard 69" cable to go to the new A type overdrive, and I can't find a longer cable length listed from anyone of the big three. Can someone tell me what they use?

Rob, the TR6 does not use a longer cable. It uses the standard cable with the right angle gear box. I routed my cable up and over the top of the transmission and then up and back through the firewall. Only the TR2-4 use the longer cable and have a notch in the floorpan and a special rubber boot to accomodate it. The TR4A introduced the use of the gearbox and the floorpan on longer included the cut-out for the cable to angle straight out of the gearbox.

From: "Randall Young"

Subject: RE: To Color Tune, or Not?

I'm looking for advice from experienced hands regarding the effectiveness of the Gunson Colortune system for setting the proper fuel/air mix on my TR3A's SU H6 carbs. Greatest thing since sliced bread or high tech overload? What's the most effective method to get it right consistently?

I've never tried a Colourtune, but the old "lift the piston" test is quick, easy, sensitive and accurate. When everything is right, even half of one flat on the mixture nut makes a noticeable difference. (Conversely, if you don't get that sensitive peak, there's something wrong that should be fixed before adjusting the mixture, like timing or valve lash.) Best of all, it's free!

From: "Fred Thomas"

Subject: M.P.G. for a T/R 3

I'm reading a few performance road tests of the T/R 3 as written by "Autocar", it says, driving hard 28 MPG, attainable 35/37, and lastly it says a "unmodified" but using special driving techques it attained 71.02 MPG, I have no idea what special driving techniques means, the very best MPG I have ever been able to attain is 31.6 and I did that only once, most of the time I'm in the 26/27 MPG class, I have standard H-6 carbs using RM needles with O/D, I buy 89 octane

and very seldom get into it from the standing start, I do cruise in the over 70 MPH.

Don't forget, those are Imperial gallons, which are 20% larger than US gallons. So, 35 miles per Imperial gallon is only 29 miles per US gallon.

From: AVALON2455@

I get about 18-19.drive mostly in town, short trips, gun it when I can

From: Don Malling

Subject: Rockwell Hardness Testing -- Cams and Lifters

There were some questions about how Cams and Lifters were hardness tested, so I asked Steve Gruenwald, owner of Integral Cams, how they did it.

His reply:

We use a Rockwell hardness tester to hardness test the lifters. It creates a small pin mark in the lifter face. When we regrind the lifters sometimes this pin mark cleans up before the other wear marks and sometimes not. It depends on how bad the lifters are worn. Rockwell hardness checking is generally classified under "destructive testing" but its not literally that brutal and in this case it only means that the part can't be used "as is" after testing. We certainly would not want to hardness check the lifters after grinding and polishing them because the little pin mark would cause rapid cam and lifter wear in an engine. So the only bad thing about this testing method is that we can't test an already new set of lifters without having to regrind and polish them afterwards. Another question I am often asked is: when we regrind the lifters to make the pin mark go away, are we grinding off the hardness layer and will the lifter now be soft? The lifters are chill cast which has a broad diffused hardness band so we don't have to worry about instantly grinding through the hardness band like you would if the lifters were induction hardened.

Steve Gruenwald, Integral Cams

Date: Sun, 27 Oct 2002 23:25:55 -0500

From: "johnesposito"

To: "francois wildi"

Francois - Hi and thanks for your inquiry. The TR4 originally came with an A

type overdrive, and this is best for the car as the J type is not as strong.

I sell the A type adapters also, new are $75 + shipping. I also sell the TR4

overdrive mainshafts at $150 new and $75 used. I also sell the eccentric

cams for $60 new. I have all parts to rebuild the A type in stock as well as

rebuilt units. I also can supply all parts to rebuild the gearbox. If you

want to put the J type in the TR4 it can be done. You would need a

transmission mounting kit as well as the mount arrangement is different for

the J type. I sell the kit for $100. Picture is enclosed. To adapt the J to

a TR4 is more difficult as the input and output (mainshaft) shafts must be

changed or re machined. The difference is the spigot bearing size and

diameter. I also sell all the parts to install the overdrive in the car.

This means the electrical relay, wiring, switch etc. Give me a call or an

email and we can discuss it further. Thanks again! John Esposito

John G. Esposito

Quantum Mechanics Ltd.

505 Wheeler Rd.

Monroe, Ct. 06468

(203) 459 9612

fax 203 261 8497



Phantomgrip

I've no first-hand experience, but from the conversations on other lists, I'd say the Phantom Grip doesn't significantly increase the chances of breaking something even in a "notoriously fragile" diff ... but it does significantly reduce it's lifetime. For a racer, that's certainly NBD, but it might give one pause before using it on the street.

I don't know if it's still true, but Jerry Alford posted on last September that he was the only dealer offering the Phantom Grip for Triumphs. He put one in his F Production Spitfire and reported being quite pleased with it."... after racing this car for 10 years with a Detroit locker & locked diff's I didn't notice any performance change except the smoothness."

You can contact him at :

Jerry Alford

Union Jac's

909-397-7512

unionjacs@

Date: Mon, 16 Jun 2003 15:21:44 -0700 (PDT)

From: Chris Kantarjiev

Subject: Re: Plug Wire Advice

I suggest that you *not* get the Lucas bumblebee wire and Champion

plug ends. They look pretty, but the insulation on the bumblebee

wire gets hard and inflexible after about a year, and the Champion

plug ends are a pain to install (and keep installed) - and the 90

degree end makes wire management a pain.

Check out Magnecor's 7mm all-black wires. (I think Pertronix might

be reselling these, or something similar). I have put Magnecor wires

on a couple of cars and am quite happy with them.

From: CarlSereda@

Subject: re; Checking and Filling Armstrong Lever Shocks

You could remove the six bolts on your Armstrong cover and top it off from there. that's most likely what the last person did. But usually with side fillers like that you fill till it drips then plug. There are no tricks involved unless you have shock off the car. One is pumping the lever a few times while holding shock level to rid air bubbles before re-installation.

- --------

What's the at-home procedure for checking the fluid level in lever shocks? I removed a wheel tonight, unscrewed the fill bolt, and some fluid shot out of the hole. Is there a trick to manipulating the lever to fill and seal the shock?

Date: Sun, 22 Jun 2003 01:27:51 -0400

From: Don Malling

Subject: [Fwd: Re: Installed Defective Cam. Need Advice On New One]

You might try Integral Cams. He uses a Chilled Cast Iron Billet blank. They are not regrinds.

Mine is not in the engine yet so I can't provide first hand information, but in the process of trying to decide on Integral, I learned that he makes the cams for the Kent Prather Racing team. I asked Kent about Integral, and he spoke highly of them. Kai Radicke and Bob Lang speak highly of Kent and what he has accomplished with his MGA, and I guess also the Integral Cams inside the engines. Kent Prather has a web site, but I don't have it. His name is all over the web. You might check it out. I understand he finances his racing by doing engine work for customers LBCs -- top notch and pricey from what I have heard. I believe Richard Good also has Chilled Cast Iron Billet blanks available, and seems to me that Ted Schumacher does too.

Integral was expensive: $312.00 which is about the same as other new blanks. Integral will also Rockwell hardness test and regrind your lifters. From what I have learned in my cam buying adventure, I would have even new lifters Rockwell tested and reground. I had Integral regrind my original lifters. They were the original equipment.

Don Malling

Bob Fabie wrote:

Briefly, 1500 miles ago, I installed a Piper cam as part of a complete engine bay restoration (a mild regrind that I purchased from British Parts Northwest.) The engine idled and ran perfectly. However, I became concerned over having to adjust the valves - primarily the same one - three times during over this period. When I did it last week, it was obvious that I would soon run out of adjustment since the screw was now flush with the nut. Today, I used a dial indicator to measure the valve lift and compared the reading with the specs. of the new cam. No question about it, at least one lobe is bad. I plan to follow Hemmings instructions for removing the cam without removing the engine. It's "killing" me to have to dismantle my pristine, show quality engine compartment. I plan to contact BPNW and discuss the problem. I'll report back on what they say and what they do as a result of this defective cam ( I also purchased new lifters, push rods, bearings, pistons and much else from them). I realize that this could have been an anomaly, but at this point, I don't recommend that anyone else buy a reground cam. I'll reserve comments as to BPNW until after I talk with them. I do not intend to buy another reground cam. I'm very interested in hearing your opinion and recommendations on brands and grinds. I would like a higher than stock performance cam, but I want a good idle - no lope. Goodparts? Moss?

Thanks in advance for your help. I wish I had sought it before I bought the one I purchased.

From: "Randall Young"

Subject: RE: Installed Defective Cam. Need Advice On New One

What is not clear to me is if you need a special surface treatement on the lobes or not, and if there has to be a matching treatment on the tappets. From talking with a couple of grinding companies it seems that the answers are no and yes respectively.

From what I've seen and heard, this is an ongoing debate between cam grinders and their customers. It seems that hardening is not absolutelynecessary with proper break-in and plenty of high quality assembly lube ...but it does increase the chances of the cam 'living' a long life. Some respected cam grinders do recommend it ... but generally the high volume ones don't. I believe Kas Kastner has said that he only had his cams Parkerized (phosphated), which is not a hardening treatment.

Nitriding is not cheap, it takes time and special equipment to do it right. Do it wrong, and the shaft will warp, which can destroy a shop's profits in a hurry. If a lobe does "go away", most of them will try to claim it's due to improper installation or improper break-in techniques. Since there's so little consensus on break-in, it's easy to claim you've done it wrong ...

Randall

Date: Fri, 27 Jun 2003 07:13:33 -0700

From: "Randall Young"

Subject: RE: Ign advance and cam phasing for TR4

> I've always heard that conventional wisdom says to advance the

> ignition at idle until the revs stop increasing, and then maybe

> back it off slightly.

Rupert, with respect ... that's crazy. Even with a stock cam, the

idle

timing is nowhere near "max revs", because cylinder pressures are way

down

which slows down the flame front. To put it another way, if maximum

idle

speed was what was wanted, the vacuum advance would be mostly active,

since

the manifold pressure is low.

The situation is even worse with a radical cam, since cylinder

filling at

idle is apt to be erratic, and mixture tends to be way off (which is

why

radical cams idle badly), both of which affect timing.

I don't have the numbers handy, but I know that engine builders look

at

total advance (static advance plus max centrifugal advance, ignoring

vacuum

advance if present) rather than idle advance.

Failing that, the most important thing is that the engine never knock

under

normal operation. One acceptable way to chose a timing setting is to

start

conservative and do a "road test" with heavy throttle at low rpm.

According

to the TR2/3 shop manual, "light pinking" is acceptable, but

personally I

like to play it safe and back off two degrees from where I can hear

it.

> Set up the dial indicator and yep, sure enough, it looks my

> intent to advance the cam by four degrees actually turned into

> retarding the cam by four degrees.

Just a thought ... have you double-checked the marks on the pulley ?

> My question is, would a retarded cam cause the engine to want

> more ignition advance,

I'm not certain just what effect a retarded cam would have on optimum

static

advance. It is likely to change the optimum advance curve (odd that

you

didn't mention that ...).

Optimum advance is all about getting maximum cylinder pressures at

the

proper point in the compression stroke, thereby producing the most

torque

and power, without causing knock. Thus, anything that changes the

speed of

the flame front, like cylinder pressure during combustion or changing

the

shape of the combustion chamber, is apt to affect the optimum

ignition

timing.

Randall

Date: Thu, 17 Jul 2003 09:43:09 -0600

From: "Lumia, John"

Subject: Re: TR Timing - Road Test Results

John, will the engine run above 3000 RPM while not moving (i.e. not

under

load)? If so, that would rule out the Pertronix and I'm gonna guess

its

fuel-related, like a weak fuel pump or weak flow due to clogged fuel

filter or

crud in the float bowls. If you have a fuel pressure gauge (or is it

guage)

you should see about 2 lbs pressure give or take. If pressure is ok,

you

might drop one of the float bowls and have a look.

John - 1976 TR6

Date: Thu, 17 Jul 2003 19:31:33 EDT

From: CarlSereda@

Subject: re: TR Timing - Road Test Results

>>5) vacuum advance - stock distributor rebuilt by TRF 2. Are we talking about the front wheels only or all four?

Front only. I know someone that was working on adapting rear discs

to a TR4

last time I saw him, but it's a considerably larger project.

> 3. I am an amatuer mechanic, should I attempt this?

Without meaning to sound insulting, if you have to ask, it would

probably be

better if you don't. Especially since these are single-circuit

brakes, a

mistake can easily be life-threatening. You (or someone) is going to

have

to flare some hard lines, and if one of those flares fails, you'll be

relying on the emergency brake to stop. And they don't stop so good

! (Try

a panic stop with the e-brake sometime when there are no other cars

around.

I think you'll be unpleasantly surprised.)

Randall

From: "Hugh Barber"

Subject: RE: Toyota caliper upgrade

Towards the end of the article at there are some before and after figures. Here's the text:

All tests were performed with a newly rebuilt master cylinder, using DOT 5 brake fluid. The variations tested and the results of the testing were:

1. Early (prior to metric calipers, Girling 16PB) stock configuration with semi metallic pads, composite shoes and 0.70" rear wheel cylinders: 262 feet with a standard deviation of 19; 6 data points, tossed out both the minimum and maximum measurements.

2. Toyota front calipers with semi metallic pads, composite shoes: 243 feet with a standard deviation of 9; 8 data points, tossed out minimum and maximum.

3. Toyota front calipers with semi metallic pads, composite shoes with a 7/8 inch rear wheel cylinder: 215 feet with a standard deviation of 9; 9 data points, tossed out minimum and maximum.

From: David Templeton

Subject: Re: Toyota caliper upgrade

When I did the upgrade I really had one motivation...money :-)

To go with stock tr3a rotors would have costed $150cdn, calipers if I could find them and if they could be rebuilt I got an estimate of $125. With the toyota, and tr6 rotor which cost $35cdn/pr. And the calipers loaded are $45cdn each. The one thing I would advise anyone using these caliper is to by them loaded, already filled with the pads. It seems the garages buy these that way for ease of install.

Date: Wed, 15 Oct 2003 17:48:48 -0700

From: Geo Hahn

Subject: Re: Perfect Tool for installing/removing Fuel Pump TR 3,

4...

Also effective for that rear nut are the wobble extensions from

Harbor

Freight...



Geo Hahn

59 TR3A

Mt Lemmon, AZ

> (Ted Schumacher) TS Imported Automotive

new email: tedtsimx@

Date: Wed, 24 Dec 2003 00:54:02 -0800

From: "Randall Young"

Subject: RE: starter

> Just curious....I believe my 59 TR3 has the original starter. Can

someone

> tell me, in non-mechanic speak, the difference between, and

> advantage of, a

> gear reduction starter over stock?

Not sure I can handle the first part of the question ... the

difference is

that it has a gear reduction

Turns the engine faster, draws less current (meaning it can crank

longer for

any given battery and state of charge), weighs less, and best of all,

no

Bendix to slip !

If your car (starter) is before TS50000, the gear drive starter will

also

allow you to fit some tubular headers that will not fit with the

stock

starter.

Be sure to note that there are two different gear drive starters,

although

the difference is subtle. Cars with a pre-TS50000 flywheel require a

9

tooth pinion on the starter, later flywheels take a 10-tooth pinion.

Oh, one more advantage, the gear drive will let you run a post-50000

flywheel with a pre-50000 gearbox.

Don't know that it's necessary, but I used the original solenoid to

control

the power to the new solenoid on my gear-drive starter. The new

solenoid

draws a lot more current than the old one, and I'm not sure if the

"push to

start" switch can handle the extra current over the long run, or not.

That

way, I also get to keep the handy under-bonnet start button !

Randall

Date: Fri, 26 Dec 2003 10:22:01 -0600

From: "Jack W. Drews"

Subject: Re: wheel bearings

At 06:57 AM 12/26/03 -0700, joe maher wrote:

>What makes Timken wheel bearings better, and are they worth 2x what

regular

>wheel bearing cost? It is for my TR3 (front).

>

>thanks,

>Joe

>TS57347 running, but in storage, ready for a new suspension

Timken bearings are vastly superior to low cost bearings, according

to

tests run at the company now paying my pension. In fact, they are

superior

to a couple of the other major names as well. That said, I don't know

if

you will see the difference in a TR3 wheel bearing situation.

uncle jack



Date: Wed, 31 Dec 2003 11:32:27 -0800

From: "Randall Young"

Subject: RE: TR3A front wheel bearings

> What I would be worried about is

> 'burnelling :-\ ' [I think that's the term I want] the cup.

I believe you're thinking of "brinelling".



I'm fairly certain that 20 ftlb would not cause brinelling, even if

it was

being applied to the bearings. But in this case, it appears it was

not

being applied to the bearings at all, but the improperly seated seal.

I've not had a chance to research the question, but my theory is that

early

seals were a simple felt ring, not bonded to a steel backing, and

that the

instructions were for those felt rings.

In any case, it is definitely necessary to drift the steel backing

into

place before trying to assemble the hub to the spindle.

Randall

Date: Thu, 1 Jan 2004 23:22:24 -0800

From: "Randall Young"

Subject: RE: suspension work

> 1) Would that have everything or would I need a few other pieces?

After years of not doing so, I would definitely recommend changing

the peg,

bushing and seal in the steering box at the same time. Made a world

of

difference in my car.

> Regarding this, I have the how to restore a TR3 by Roger

> Williams. In it he

> talks about using a TR4 trunnion and a pair of TR 4 top wishbones.

Any

> thoughts on that?

Increases steering effort with little or no improvement in handling

IMO ...

just makes the car wander a bit less. Mine doesn't wander at all

unless the

road surface is uneven, but it does have a tendency to follow ruts

badly

(probably has something to do with my wide tires and no toe-in).

I've got

the parts to do the mod, but I've never put them on the car.

> 2) I think I need to replace the shocks, will stock shocks be ok

> or should

> I go with a Spax or koni? I have to admit that I would prefer

> non-adjustable shocks just because it will be that much less for me

to

> monkey with and I know nothing about the hows and whys of

> adjusting. But, I want my car to handle.

IMO stock is fine. That's what I'm still using, and even though I've

already made several other modifications, the next logical mod is an

uprated

sway bar, not stiffer shocks.

> 3) Should I replace the front springs, too? If so, stock or

> something like

> a high performance spring (if someone makes one)?

Again, I like the stock springs. They are plenty stiff already.

However, a

front sway bar is a definite upgrade.

> 4) I plan on replacing the rear shocks. Again, is stock ok or

heavy duty

> ones like an Apple Hydralics rebuild?

If they're in good shape, the stock shocks work quite well IMO.

Unlike the

IRS Triumphs, the leaf springs add a good deal of friction to the

rear

suspension (which acts as a shock absorber to some extent), so

there's

little need to add more.

> 5) I also need to replace the rear springs as one side sags a

little, do

> they make performance rear springs? Or is stock ok?

If I were doing it today, I would add Teflon liners between the

leaves, to

reduce the friction. Don't go any stiffer. Note that the passenger

side is

supposed to sag a bit, to get it closer to level with only a driver.

> 6) Now here is the big question, is all this something I can do?

The rear springs can be next to impossible to remove with the body

on,

otherwise it's all doable IMO. You'll need some special tools, but

they

aren't hard to buy or fabricate : spring compressor, pitman arm

puller,

puller for the rear spring pivot pin, a couple of reamers, etc. I

made a

little mandrel to R&R the outer bushings in the lower A-arms, makes

it much

easier, but it can be done without it.

Randall

Date: Mon, 05 Jan 2004 08:41:14 -0600

From: "Jack W. Drews"

Subject: Re: How to clean oil passages in block?

The plugs in the ends of the oil galleries are aluminum and the holes

are

threaded. The only way I've found to remove them is to drill a series

of

holes around the periphery of the plug, making sure that you don't

nick the

threads in the block.

Replacing them is a chore. I've tried screwing straight socket head

plugs

in, but of course those are not guaranteed to be leakproof, even with

thread sealant.

Until I find a better approach, I currently tap the holes with a 3/8"

NPT

tap and screw in socket head pipe plugs. This is difficult because

tapping

a tapered thread into these holes requires a very long wrench for

leverage.

There is also the problem of creating chips which may very well go

down

into the oil passages to the main bearings. I prevent this by

stuffing the

holes with paper towel scraps and then carefully pulling them out and

blowing out the holes.

In addition to the difficulty of tapping the holes, the socket head

plugs

don't usually screw far enough into the front of the block to make

them

flush, so I carefully grind off the tops of those plugs so the front

plate

goes on flat. The rear one can stick out a couple of threads without

interfering with the flywheel.

This is all a lot of work and although I do it to every block I'd be

hard

pressed to defend the all this monkey business. It is necessary if

you have

the block dipped in a caustic tank for cleaning, because the caustic

melts

the aluminum. If you don't have the block "tanked", the old plugs are

okay.

By the way, if anybody has a head "tanked", the big plug in the top

can be

treated the same way, but the aluminum pushrod tubes in some heads

will

actually disappear. If anybody does this, don't throw away that late

model

head -- I have a shop that will replace them for a quite reasonable

price.

Date: Mon, 5 Jan 2004 09:28:49 -0800

From: "Randall Young"

Subject: RE: Toe-In

> The manual (TR3-4) says toe-in is 0 to 1/8".

> Where do you suppose that 1/8" would be measured? At the tire tread?

Yes.

> Is that an eighth-inch difference between the front measurement and the rear measurement?

Yes.

Date: Sat, 3 Jan 2004 16:39:32 -0500

From: "Terry Smith"

Subject: TR3A suspension

In response to Joe Maher's questions, I just completely rebuilt the

front and

rear suspension on my '59 TR3A

this summer. (I'm TS58667, only about 1300 cars later than yours.)

I'm

not an expert, but I know you have some choices.

Rear Shocks: Your rear shocks may not need replacing. There are

some

articles written on how to rebuild them, but the best thing is just

to buy

some Harley Davidson fork oil, empty your old oil and replace with

the

Harley

stuff, then work the shocks back and forth by hand. If movement is

consistent, you're golden. Reinstall. If you have a problem, I've

have

great performance experience with Apple Hydraulics, who did some

heroics on

a pair of front calipers I dinked up beyond human capacity. ( I

broke off

not one, but two, easy-outs in the bleeder screw trying to get it

out.

...Why heck do they call them "easy" outs anyway?)

Front Shocks: You could replace them while you're in there, but

your call

on replacement type. I went stock because, like you, I tend not to

want to

fuss with things either. There are other basic improvements that may

make

more

of a difference, like a front swaybar.

I didn't buy the magic kit (ISR that they offered stuff in it I

didn't

need/want). My research led me to the red urethane bushings for the

upper

a-arms. My

best advice on this is to look at the technical drawings in the Moss

and

Roadster Factory catalogs, and make an individual decision on each

piece.

Again, I didn't use a TR4 trunnion and upper wishbones. Frankly, I'm

not good

enough to know the difference in handling that they would cause,

relative to

the pita to modify all that.

Research said leave the front springs. Consensus was that new front

springs

were of inconsistent stiffness, if I recall correctly, and that old

springs

didn't typically deteriorate to the point of needing replacement.

Wire brush

the old ones and give them a dose of POR15 or preservative paint of

your

choice.

Yes, you can do this. Be sure to do the silent block assembly, ball

joints,

and do a careful inspection of the upper fulcrum pins for pitting

also. And be

advised that your lower wishbones may be thrashed, with holes so oval

they won't take a bushing. If so, these are no longer available.

There are

places you can get servicable used ones, though. I got mine from a

place in

Bradford, Vermont. (Mike: (802) 439-5815.) Check for prices.

Lastly, there was/is a debate about the rear spring bushes. Some

say you get

a better ride from the rubber, because it is more forgiving to jolts

than the

poly. Others say the poly is firmer and longer lasting. I went

poly, but to

be honest, the rubbers I took out, and these were 43 years old,

looked really

pretty good.

...And invest $10 in a tube of silicone grease. It'll be easier on

your

plastic parts when you lubricate.

Oh, and be advised there is a steel bush that goes over the fulcrum

pins for

the lower A-Arms. Mine were practically welded to the pin. Used

propane

heat, a dousing of cold water, repeat, repeat, repeat, repeat, then

heat like

crazy and used a pipe wrench with a pipe extension for leverage, and I was able to twist the bushing off, barely. Others like Randall on this list can better attest whether it's better just to leave the bushing in place

and put a

new nylon bush over with liberal smearing of silicone grease.

I also went into the steering box and replaced the bushing and

adjusted the

peg pressure, replacing all the old oil that was in there with modern

gear

oil. IMO, I don't think I really had to, but I wouldn't have known

that

unless I did. "That's the catch, Yossarian. Catch-22. If you think

you're

crazy and want out, you're not crazy."

Above all, have fun. That's what it's all about.

Terry Smith

'59 TR3A TS 58667

One of the problems with silicone is that it can form long strings as it's squeezed out of a joint. If the strings go inside the pan, they can potentially block oil passages with disastrous results.

For those cork seals, I use 'classic' Permatex Aviation Form-a-gasket (aka shellac). For things like pan gaskets, I prefer Hylomar (although Justin's silicone gaskets should be used dry).

Randall

Date: Fri, 23 Jan 2004 14:33:11 -0500

From: "J.C. Hassall"

Subject: TR4 differential Timken bearing numbers

In case anyone cares, here are the Timken numbers for the TR4, solid

axle

TR4A differential bearings:

Moss item number, p/n, Timken number, use

21 125-600 3188S pinion head

24 525-090 15100SR pinion tail

8 525-070 16150 carrier bearings

NO! In fact, the setscrews border on irrelevant, my experience is that the bearings will not turn in service even without the setscrews. I think they're more to ensure that the bearings are correctly installed in the first place.

Note that the rear bearing also has to line up with the oil feed to the head. If the insert is turned front-to-back, you can only line up 2 of the 3 holes. The third hole is irrelevant in the other inserts, they can be installed either way.

Randall

Date: Mon, 26 Jan 2004 00:11:01 -0800

From: "Randall Young"

Subject: RE: Bosch Spark plugs

> As I am electrically challenged I need some advice. I picked up a

set of

> Bosch platinum spark plugs to try in the TR4, but have heard that

> you have to use

> a special gapping tool to keep from damaging the platinum coating.

The Bosch plugs don't use a coated electrode, instead it's solid

platinum

(at least at the tip) and a very fine wire encased in ceramic. An

ordinary

gap gauge won't cause any problem, but as with any plug, you should

not pry

against the center electrode to set the gap. Use a tool (even chain

nose

pliers will work) to bend the side electrode to open the gap; I just

tap the

plug against a hard surface to close it.

Randall

Date: Wed, 28 Jan 2004 07:02:34 -0800

From: "T. S. White"

Subject: Re: * 3A Rear Springs *

Yes you can remove and replace the rear spring with the body on. I

have

done this at least twice. One hint is to loosen the fender brase and

move it out of the way. Wrench clearances may be a little tight but

it

can be done.

- --

Best Regards,

Tom

“Jim

jhassall@

Blacksburg VA

'63 TR4 in autox preparation, 90% finished, 90% to go “

Date: Fri, 30 Jan 2004 20:24:37 -0700

From: "Michael D. Porter"

Subject: Re: Replacing Pinion Seal in Differential

> List,

> Just wondering how you can get the torque you need on the castellated

> nut when you put the diff. flange back on under the car after you

> replace the oil seal - it's hard enough to get 80 lbs on the head bolts> when they're out on top of everything!

I get the parking brake on as tightly as I can, and then put a large pipe wrench on the flange. That immobilizes the flange, and therefore, the pinion. With the rear on jack stands, the car can't go anywhere, and with enough height, there's enough room to swing a goodly-sized torque wrench. It can be done.

Michael D. Porter, Roswell, NM

Date: Sat, 7 Feb 2004 20:55:23 -0700

From: "joe maher"

Subject: alternator conversion continued

When I do this conversion on my 59 tr3a with the 7127 GM alternator, will it fit right on or will I need to do something different to get it to fit on the original mounting brackets?

................
................

In order to avoid copyright disputes, this page is only a partial summary.

Google Online Preview   Download