Home Maintenance Guide - NACHI



Home Maintenance Guide

INTRODUCTION

In a home, very few things are maintenance free. While it is a bitter pill for most homeowners to swallow, the fact is that preventative maintenance, with all the time and money it consumes, is still far more cost effective than the crisis management approach of waiting until something breaks and then scrambling to have it repaired. Preventative maintenance can avoid repairs, extend the life expectancy of many components and in some cases, reduce energy consumption.

Advance Warning

A systematic maintenance approach also allows one to monitor certain conditions and components. Regular roof inspections, for example, will give one enough advance warning to allow for several roofing quotes in order to make an educated and cost effective purchase of a new roof covering. If on the other hand, no maintenance is done, and the roof suddenly leaks, there is very little time to do comparative shopping. Under these circumstances, one is forced to go with the roofer who can do the job the fastest - not necessarily with the roofing materials of your choice or at the best possible price.

In addition to monitoring systems, which wear out, structural monitoring can also be performed. It is not uncommon for people who have been living in a house for some time to suddenly realize that a doorframe is out of square and the door does not close properly. With regular maintenance, the cracks, which occur in the wall surfaces adjacent to the doorframe, can be monitored. Knowing whether these cracks have appeared suddenly or have been increasing at a specific rate, is valuable information when diagnosing the problem and designing a repair.

[pic]Structure Monitoring

Regular maintenance is not everybody's cup of tea. Hiring a handyman to perform maintenance inspections and minor repairs is not unwise.

Ideally, preventative maintenance inspections should be performed semi-annually in the spring and fall. However, some components require more or less frequent inspections. Where appropriate, this is noted. Records of any work performed should be noted in the Filing System section.

One last thought. There probably is not a homeowner alive who performs maintenance inspections to the degree that we suggest. So take all of this with a grain of salt. Suffice it to say, the more you do, the better. Please refer to the chart at the front of this section to assist in creating your own schedule.

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[pic]  EXTERIOR

Chimneys:   Chimneys should be inspected for loose or deteriorated bricks or mortar. If covered with stucco or parging, look for cracks or loose sections. Chimney caps should be inspected for loose or broken sections, as should the protruding clay chimney liners. Chimney flashings should be inspected for leakage. Efflorescence (a white salt build-up on the chimney) indicates moisture within the chimney and further investigation is required. Metal chimneys should be checked for rust, missing rain caps and loose braces.

Roofs

Shingle Roofs:  Roofing should be inspected for damaged, loose or missing shingles. Special attention should be paid to high wear areas such as areas where there is significant foot traffic or areas where downspouts from upper roofs discharge onto lower roofs. Flashings at dormers, plumbing stacks, valleys, et cetera, should be carefully inspected. Supports for television antennas or satellite dishes should be checked. Electric cables (eave protection) should be well secured and properly powered. Tree branches should be kept cut back to avoid damaging the roof surface.

Flat Roofs: Flat roofs should be inspected for blisters, bubbles, and flashing details. Tar and gravel roofs should be inspected for areas of gravel erosion. Tree branches should not contact the roof surface.

Gutters and Downspouts: Gutters and downspouts should be checked for blockage, leakage (from rust holes or leaking joints) and areas requiring re-securing or re-sloping. Paint deterioration should also be noted. Downspout seams should be checked for splitting (the seam is usually against the wall). A split downspout is often plugged with debris. Water accumulates in the downspout, freezes and splits it open.

Eaves:   Soffits and fascia should be inspected for loose and rotted areas as well as areas damaged by vermin. Paint condition should be noted.

Walls:   Masonry walls should be checked for deteriorated brick and mortar. Stucco walls should be inspected for cracking and separating. Wood walls should be checked for rot, loose or damaged boards, caulking, and wood/ soil contact. If paint deterioration is the result of blistering or bubbling, the cause should be determined. It may be due to outward moisture migration from the interior of the house, indicating more serious problems.

Metal and vinyl sidings, insulbrick and shingle sidings should be inspected for mechanical damage and loose or missing components. All walls should be checked for indications of settling. Vines should be monitored to determine whether damage to the wall surface is occurring. Deciduous vines are best checked during winter months, when there are no leaves. Vines should be kept cut back from wood trim (windows, doors, eaves, etc) and from gutters.

Exposed Foundation Walls: Foundation walls should be inspected for deteriorated brick, block, mortar or parging. Cracking due to settlement should also be noted and monitored.

Grading:   The grading immediately adjacent to the house should be checked to ensure a slope of one inch per foot for the first six feet away from the house (where practical). Catch basins should be cleaned and tested.

Doors and Windows: Caulking and weather-stripping should be checked. Broken or cracked panes of glass should be replaced. Storms should be installed in the fall and screens in the spring. The finishes should be checked for paint deterioration and rot (particularly sills). Window wells should be cleaned.

Porches and Decks: Wooden components should be checked for rot and insect infestation. Wood should be painted or stained as required. Steps and railings should be secure.

Garages:   Garage roofs should be checked for wear. The structure should be inspected for evidence of movement. Wooden components should be investigated for evidence of rot or insect infestation. Wooden components should be painted or stained as required.

Automatic garage door openers should be tested monthly and adjusted to reverse in the event of an emergency. Floor drains should be cleared and tested.

Driveways and Sidewalks: Driveways and sidewalks should be checked for cracks and deterioration. Settling which will result in surface water run off towards the house should be corrected, as should uneven sections that pose a safety hazard to pedestrians.

Retaining Walls and Fences: Wooden retaining walls and fences should be checked for rot and insect infestation. Retaining walls should be checked for evidence of movement.

Trees, Shrubs and Vines: Limbs overhanging the house should be cut back. Dead limbs should be removed. Vines should be trimmed back from all wood surfaces.

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[pic]  STRUCTURE

Foundation Walls: Foundation walls should be checked for evidence of deterioration, dampness and movement. Limited dampness from slow moisture migration can be anticipated with most older foundation walls. This will often result in minor surface deterioration. Semi-annual inspections allow for monitoring of this situation. Cracks and voids should be filled. Filling cracks allows for easy monitoring of movement between inspections.

Access hatches should be provided to all crawl space areas.

Wood Framing: Exposed wooden structural components in the basement should be checked for evidence of rot and insect infestation. Deterioration usually results in sagging structural components.

Wall and Ceiling Surface Cracks: Wall and ceiling surface cracks should be monitored for evidence of significant movement. Minor movement due to normal settling and shrinkage should be anticipated.

Door Frames: Doorframes should be checked to determine their square--ness. Doorframes showing significant movement over a six-month period are normally indications of more serious problems.

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[pic]  ELECTRICAL

Main Panel: The main electrical panel should be checked annually for rust or water marks indicating moisture penetration. All breakers should be turned off and on to ensure none have seized. All fuses should be tightened. A panel that is warm to the touch or smells of burned insulation should be brought to the attention of an electrician. Burned wires, indicating loose or poor connections, should be repaired by qualified personnel. All circuits should be labeled. Ground fault circuit interrupters should be tested monthly. Aluminum wire connections inside the distribution panel should be tightened annually. A qualified electrician should do this. The area around the panel for roughly three feet in all directions should be kept clear of storage.

Indoor Wiring: Poor or loose connections noted when viewing the exposed wiring in the basement should be corrected by a qualified electrician. Frayed or damaged wire, including extension cords, appliance cords and plugs, should be replaced. Loose outlets and switches should be tightened. Ground fault circuit interrupter electrical outlets should be tested monthly. A qualified electrician should tighten aluminum wire connections throughout the house annually.

Outdoor Wire: The masthead and the wires leading to the street (if overhead) should be inspected to make sure that they are not loose or frayed. Overhead wiring leading to out buildings such as garages should also be inspected. Exterior outlets should have proper covers. Ideally, ordinary exterior outlets should be replaced with ground fault circuit interrupter type outlets.

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[pic]  HEATING

All Forced Air Systems: Conventional filters on forced-air systems should be checked monthly and cleaned or replaced as needed. Electronic filters should be checked monthly and cleaned as needed. The manufacturers instructions should be followed carefully. Care should be taken to ensure the interior components are installed in the correct orientation after cleaning.

Noisy blower sections should be brought to the attention of a technician.

Water levels in humidifiers should be checked and adjusted monthly. Interior components should be replaced on an as needed basis. The pad on drum type humidifiers should be replaced annually. The water supply to humidifiers should be shut off for the summer months and activated for the heating months. On systems with air conditioning or a heat pump, the damper in the humidifier ductwork should be closed during the cooling season.

All Hot Water Systems: Radiators and convectors should be inspected annually for leakage (particularly at the valves). Radiators should be bled of air annually, and as necessary during the heating season.

Circulating pumps should be lubricated twice during the heating season. Expansion tanks should be drained annually.

Electric Heat: A qualified technician should inspect electric furnaces and boilers every year to ensure that all the components are operating properly and no connections are loose or burned. The homeowner can check the fuses or circuit breakers in some electric systems.

Electric baseboard heaters should be inspected to ensure an adequate clearance from combustibles. Baseboard heaters that have been mechanically damaged should be repaired or replaced.

Oil Furnaces and Boilers: Oil systems should be checked by a qualified technician on an annual basis. Oily soot deposits at registers of forced-air systems may indicate a cracked heat exchanger. A technician should be contacted.

The exhaust pipe from the furnace or boiler should be checked for loose connections or corroded sections. The barometric damper on the exhaust pipe should rotate freely. The chimney clean out should be cleared of any debris. The oil tank should be inspected for leaks. Soot on the front of the furnace or boiler may indicate a draft or combustion problem. A technician should be contacted.

Gas Furnaces and Boilers: If gas odors can be detected, call the gas company immediately. Do not turn on any electrical equipment or use anything with an open flame.

Gas furnaces and boilers should be cleaned and serviced annually. The exhaust pipe should be checked for loose or corroded sections. The chimney clean out should be cleared of any debris. The heat shield (located where the burner enters the heat exchanger) should be checked to ensure that it is not loose or corroded. Burn marks around the heat shield may indicate a draft or combustion problem. A technician should be contacted.

Wood Stoves: Wood stove chimneys and flues should be checked for creosote build-up and cleaned at least annually (more frequently depending upon use). Clearance to combustibles around wood stoves should be maintained at all times. If there is any doubt about the safety of a wood stove, contact the city building inspector immediately.

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[pic]  COOLING/HEAT PUMPS

A qualified technician should be engaged to inspect the system and recharge it if necessary annually. Most systems require the power to be on for up to twenty-four hours before using the system. A condensate drain line emerging from the ductwork above the furnace should be visually checked for leakage during the cooling season.

The outdoor section should be level. If the outdoor component settles or heaves, a specialist should make adjustments. The refrigerant lines should be checked for damaged, missing or loose insulation. Debris and vegetation should be kept away from the outdoor component of the system. Most manufacturers prefer to have the outdoor component left uncovered during the winter to prevent rust. The outdoor coil should be kept clean. A noisy fan may mean a bearing problem or misalignment. Window air conditioners should be removed for the winter.

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[pic]  ATTICS

Attics should be inspected annually for water stains on the underside of the roof sheathing. One should also look for rot, mildew, and fungus indicating high humidity levels in the attic. Check to make sure the insulation is not wet. Some types of loose insulation are prone to being blown around during periods of high wind. Check for bare spots and ensure that insulation is not covering pot lights. Attic vents should be checked to ensure that they are not obstructed. Often, birds build nests in these vents. Vents at the eaves are often plugged with insulation. Watch for evidence of pests (squirrels, raccoons, etc.).

Rafters (supporting the roof) and collar ties (horizontal members running across the attic between opposing rafters) should be inspected for rot and movement.

NOTE: Be careful walking around. Don't fall through or step on wires. Compressed insulation loses much of its insulating value.

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[pic]  PLUMBING

Supply Plumbing: Supply plumbing should be checked annually for leaks. Precautions should be taken to ensure that plumbing in areas such as crawl spaces would not freeze during winter months. Outdoor faucets should be shut off from the interior and drained for the winter. Operate the main shut-off valve and critical isolating valves to ensure proper operation in the event of an emergency. Leaking or dripping faucets should be repaired.

Well equipment should be inspected semi-annually. A water quality test should be performed periodically on the advice of local authorities.

Waste Plumbing: Visible waste plumbing should be checked for leaks. Basement floor drains and exterior drains should be checked and cleaned as necessary. Slow drains within the house should be cleared. Basement floor drain traps should be filled with water to ensure that they are not broken. If cracked, or if the water has evaporated, sewer odors will enter the house.

Septic tanks should be checked and cleaned if necessary every year.

Fixtures:   Toilets should be checked to ensure that they are properly secured to the floor. Listen for toilets that run continuously. Grouting and caulking at all bathroom fixtures should be checked and renewed as necessary. Sump pumps should be tested.

Water Heaters: Modern water heaters have a test lever on the pressure relief valve. This lever should be tested every three months or so to ensure that the pressure relief valve is not seized. If the relief valve does not discharge near a drain, a bucket will be required.

In some areas, sludge may accumulate in the bottom of the tank. Draining some water from the bottom of the tank will indicate the presence of sludge and the necessity for regular draining. Be sure to shut off the power or fuel supply prior to draining any water from the tank.

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[pic]  INTERIOR:

Walls and ceilings should be inspected for cracks in interior finishes. The amount of movement should be noted so that it can be monitored in the future. Bulges in wall and ceiling surfaces should be carefully monitored. Separated plaster, particularly on ceilings, can fall and cause injury.

Walls, particularly in comers and areas of dead air (behind drapes for example), should be checked for evidence of condensation and mildew indicating high humidity levels within the house. Water stains on interior finishes should be noted. If the source cannot be detected, they should be monitored.

Doorframes should be inspected. Doorframes that become out of square during a relatively short period (six months) may indicate structural problems.

Condensation on windows indicates high humidity levels during winter months. This can sometimes lead to rot.

Fireplaces and chimneys should be cleaned and inspected at least annually, depending upon usage.

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[pic]  HOUSEHOLD PESTS

Carpenter Ants: Carpenter ants are the largest variety of common ants found in North America. Carpenter ants do not eat wood; however, they do nest in it. They earned their name by building galleries in wood and by carefully finishing the surfaces of these galleries. When chewing their way through wood, they leave small particles resembling sawdust that they push out of the colony. It is the presence of this saw dust that indicates a colony. Carpenter ants tend to be most active in the spring and early summer. They are usually dormant during a portion of the winter. Outdoors, they feed on other insects and plant material while indoors they feed on household food.

To prevent a carpenter ant infestation, decayed wood should be removed from around the building. Firewood should not be stored indoors for long periods of time. Wood used where dampness may occur should be treated with a preservative. Foodstuffs, such as sugar, should be stored in closed containers and, should a spill occur, it should be cleaned up quickly.

A qualified pest control company should undertake chemical control of carpenter ants. Carpenter ants often nest inside walls, ceilings, outdoor siding, eaves, floors, window casings, etc. They prefer wet wood, and can often be found in rotting wood.

Earwigs:   Earwigs are one of the most common pests in homes and gardens. They eat both plant and animal food. They often damage flowers, fruit and vegetables.

Chemical treatment for the control of earwigs should be applied in June or early July. The treatment should be applied along building foundations, under porches and around fences, woodpiles, garages and tree trunks. Chemical treatment is effective in the short term; however, it is not uncommon for a garden to be reinfested in as little as two weeks after treatment. Earwigs are nocturnal, searching for food at night and hiding during the day.

Silverfish:   Silverfish are nocturnal and prefer damp dark areas of the house. They appreciate warm temperatures and can often be found in furnace rooms. They feed on starchy materials such as wallpaper paste or sizing and glue. They will also eat breadcrumbs and other human food. Sometimes, they feed on paper or other wood by-products.

While chemical treatment can be effective, non-chemical treatment also works. Proper vacuuming in areas where they are likely to hide is essential. Old books, papers, et cetera, should not be left in unventilated areas for long periods of time.

Small jars, partially filled with water can be used to trap silverfish. Once inside the jar they cannot crawl up the sides. The outside of the jar should be covered with masking tape to allow them to climb up easily.

Cockroaches:   There are many species of cockroaches found in North America. Cockroaches eat many different things, including food, paper, plants, glue, etc. They prefer a damp dark environment. Roaches can be a health hazard, as they have been known to carry salmonella bacteria. Getting rid of cockroaches is very difficult. Good housekeeping is a must. Spills should be cleaned up promptly and food should be kept in insect proof containers. If possible, repair any damp areas in the home.

A professional best performs chemical treatment.

Sowbugs:   Sowbugs are actually not insects. They are crustaceans (the same family as shrimp, lobsters, et cetera). Sowbugs seldom do serious damage to houses; however, they do feed on decaying organic matter and chronically wet, rotted wood is sometimes their food. They are usually found in dark, damp environments such as the comers of basements.

The dryer and better ventilated the basement is, the less the likelihood of sowbugs.

Termites:   Subterranean termites usually do not live in houses but rather in the soil below. Termites live on wood. While they prefer damp or decaying wood, they will also eat sound dry lumber. The damage to the wood is seldom noticeable as they eat through the interior. If there is no direct wood/soil contact, termites must build shelter tubes or tunnels to get from the soil to the wood. It is the presence of these tubes that indicate an infestation. The tubes are typically 1/4 to 1/2 inch in width and are made of soil glued together by the termites.

The amount of damage that can be caused by termites can be extensive. If shelter tubes are noticed, a pest control company should be contacted immediately. In some areas, government assistance is available for treatment. In addition to chemical treatment, it is also necessary to break all wood/soil contact.

Please refer to Section 9.0 in Structure for more information.

Fleas:   Fleas are typically brought into the house by animals. They live on the blood of their hosts. There are many types of fleas; cat fleas, dog fleas, squirrel fleas, etc. Cat fleas give people the most problems. Fleas nest on the animal; however, they leave the animal from time to time and jump onto other species. They never stay, however. They always return to the host animal. If the host animal leaves the premises permanently, the fleas that are left behind will jump onto people, looking for food.

Adult fleas are relatively easy to kill; however, the larvae live in strong protective cocoons. Both the eggs and the cocoons are very resistant to flea control attempts. While there are products on the market for the homeowner, best results are obtained by hiring an expert.

Mice:   The typical life expectancy of a house mouse is approximately one year. During that time, a female mouse can bear up to eight litters of four or five mice. While mice will eat virtually any type of food, they prefer grain and seed. They require very little water. Mice travel in a very limited territory, usually not much more than thirty feet from their nest. Mice must gnaw on things to keep their teeth worn down. They are able to chew through wood, asphalt, soft mortar and even aluminum. Mice can get through holes as small as one-half inch in diameter. They are nocturnal creatures.

The best control for mice is proper sanitation. This includes the storage of food materials in mouse-proof containers and proper cleaning of spills. Mice can easily be caught in spring traps using bait such as peanut butter, cheese, bacon, or bread. Dead mice should be removed promptly.

Poisons can also be used; however, they must be handled very carefully. Usually the poison has to be consumed over a period of several days to become effective. If poisons are to be used, they should be placed in areas where they won't be found by children or pets. When stored, they should be marked as poison.

Raccoons:   Raccoons are highly intelligent animals. They will feed on fruits, nuts, grain, fish, meat, etc. They are nocturnal animals and are often found in urban settings.

The best control of raccoons is to preclude their entry. Chimney flues should be covered with substantial screens. Garage doors should be kept shut. Garbage should be kept in closed containers and shields can be provided on T.V. towers and trees to prevent access to the roofs of buildings. Tree limbs should be cut back.

Box traps or wire cage traps can be used to trap the animals so that they can be removed to a remote area. The trap should be set to catch the raccoon as it approaches its feeding place. It should be secured to prevent it from being tipped over and the bait taken. Baits such as corn, melon, prunes and peanut butter are effective. This is best done by a professional. It is not wise to corner a raccoon.

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[pic]  PRIORITY MAINTENANCE FOR HOMEOWNERS

There are so many home maintenance and repair items that are important, it can be confusing trying to establish which are the most critical. To simplify things, we have compiled a short list of our favorites. These are by no means all-inclusive, nor do they replace any of the information in a home inspection report. They should, however, help you get started on the right foot. Remember, any items marked as priority or safety issues on your home inspection report need immediate attention.

ONE TIME TASKS

Install smoke detectors as necessary (usually one on each level of the home, near any sleeping areas).

Make any electrical improvements recommended in the home inspection report.

Remove any wood/soil contact to prevent rot and insect damage.

Change the locks on all doors.

Remove or correct trip hazards such as broken or uneven walks, patios and driveways. Loose or torn carpet or flooring should also be repaired promptly.

Correct unsafe stairways and landings. (Treads uneven, too narrow, sloped, loose; risers irregular or too high; landings missing, poorly lit or too small; railings missing, loose, too low, et cetera).

Have all chimneys inspected and serviced before operating any of these appliances.

Locate and mark the shut-offs for the heating, electrical and plumbing systems.

If there is a septic system, have the tank inspected, and pumped if necessary. If the house is on a private water supply (well), set up a regular testing procedure for checking water quality.

If the house has a basement or crawl space, read Section 10.0, Basement Leakage in the Interior Section of the Home Reference Book.

[pic]  REGULAR MAINTENANCE ITEMS

Clean the gutters in the spring and fall.

Check for damaged roofing and flashing materials twice a year.

Cut back trees and shrubs from the house walls, roof and air conditioning system as needed.

Clean the tracks on horizontal sliding windows annually, and ensure the drain holes are clear.

Test ground fault circuit interrupters using the test button, monthly.

Service furnace or boiler yearly.

Check furnace filters, humidifiers and electronic air cleaners monthly.

Check the bathtub and shower caulking monthly and improve promptly as needed.

If you are in a climate where freezing occurs, shut off outdoor water faucets in the fall.

Install and re-secure door stops as needed.

Check attics for evidence of leaks and condensation and make sure vents are not obstructed, at least twice a year. (Provide access into all attics and crawl spaces.)

Disclaimer: A.C.E Home Inspections provides the information above to attempt to inform new homebuyers about general home maintenance.  The maintenance suggestions listed above are by no means a complete list of items that need maintenance in a home.  These statements above are only a compilation of maintenance suggestions based on our experience in the business of Real Estate property management, ownership, renovation and inspections.

Home Safety Tips

| |

|Most accidents occur at home and many of them are preventable, so it is important that your home is as safe as possible. Here are some helpful tips from |

|the U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission on making your home a safer place for everyone. Click on the area of the house you are interested in to go |

|immediately to the corresponding tips. |

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|[pic]Basement |

|When using power tools, good lighting can reduce the chance that you will accidentally cut your finger. Either install additional light, or avoid working|

|with power tools in the area. |

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|Basement, garages, and storage areas can contain many tripping hazards and sharp or pointed tools that can make a fall even more hazardous. Keep an |

|operating flashlight handy. Have an electrician install switches at each entrance to a dark area. |

| |

|Replacing a correct size fuse with a larger size fuse can present a serious fire hazard. If the fuse in the box is rated higher than that intended for |

|the circuit, excessive current will be allowed to flow and possibly overload the outlet and house wiring to the point that a fire can begin. Be certain |

|that correct-size fuses are used. (If you do not know the correct sizes, consider having an electrician identify and label the sizes to be used.) |

| |

|Use a properly connected 3-prong adapter for connecting a 3-prong plug to a 2-hole receptacle. Consider replacing old tools that have neither a 3-prong |

|plug nor are double insulated. |

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|Power tools used with guards removed pose a serious risk of injury from sharp edges or moving parts. Replace guards that have been removed from power |

|tools. |

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|Improperly grounded appliances can lead to electric shock. Check with your service person or an electrician if you are in doubt. |

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|If containers of flammable and volatile liquids are not tightly closed, vapors may escape that may be toxic when inhaled. Check containers periodically |

|to make sure they are tightly closed. Gasoline, kerosene, and other flammable liquids should be stored out of living areas in properly labeled, non-glass|

|safety containers. Remove these products from the areas near heat or flame such as heaters, furnaces, water heaters, ranges, and other |

|gas appliances. |

| |

|Death may occur when people swallow such everyday substances as charcoal lighter, paint thinner and remover, antifreeze and turpentine. These poisons |

|should have child-resistant caps, be stored in the original containers with the original labels, and be kept locked up out of sight and reach of |

|children. |

|[pic]Bathroom |

|A light switch near the bathroom door will prevent you from walking through a dark area. Install a night light. Inexpensive lights that plug into outlets|

|are available. Consider replacing the existing switch with a "glow switch" that can be seen in the dark. |

| |

|Electrical appliances and power cords can cause shock or electrocution if they come in contact with water. Consider adding new outlets for convenience |

|and safety; ask your electrician to install outlets equipped with ground fault circuit interrupters (GFCIs) to protect against electric shock. A GFCI is |

|a shock-protection device that will detect electrical fault and shut off electricity before serious injury or death occurs. |

| |

|Wet soapy tile or porcelain surfaces are especially slippery and may contribute to falls. Apply textured strips or appliqués on the floors of tubs and |

|showers. Use non-skid mats in the tub and shower, and on the bathroom floor. |

| |

|Grab bars can help you get into and out of your tub or shower, and can help prevent falls. Check existing bars for strength and stability, and repair if |

|necessary. Attach grab bars through the tile to structural supports in the wall, or install bars specifically designed to attach to the sides of the |

|bathtub. |

| |

|Water temperature above 120 degrees can cause tap water scalds. Lower the setting on your hot water heater to "Low" or 120 degrees. If you are unfamiliar|

|with the controls of your water heater, ask a qualified person to adjust it for you. If your hot water system is controlled by the landlord, ask the |

|landlord to consider lowering the setting. If the water heater does not have a temperature setting, you can use a thermometer to check the |

|temperature of the water at the tap. Always check water temperature by hand before entering bath or shower. Taking baths, rather than showers, reduces |

|the risk of a scald from suddenly changing water temperatures. |

| |

|Grandparents should use child-resistant vials if they are able to. Although grandparents may get traditional easy-to-open closures by asking their |

|pharmacist for them, the child-resistant vials should be used whenever children are around. |

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|Store all medicines separately from household products, and store all household chemical products away from food. Keep items in their original |

|containers. Leave the original labels on all products, and read the label before using. Always leave the light on when giving or taking medicines. Clean |

|out the medicine cabinet periodically, and safely dispose of |

|unneeded medicines when the illness for which they were prescribed is over. Pour contents down drain or toilet, and rinse container before discarding. |

|Turn on a light at night and put on your glasses to read the label when you need to take a medicine. If any questions arise, consult your physician. |

|Never mix medicines and alcohol, and never take more than the prescribed amount of medicine. Never "borrow" a friend's medicine or |

|take old medicines. Tell your doctor what other medicines you are taking so you can avoid adverse drug interactions. |

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|[pic]Bedroom |

|Lamps or switches located close to each bed will enable people getting up at night to see where they are going. Rearrange furniture closer to switches or|

|move lamps closer to beds. Install night lights. |

| |

|Use electric blankets according to the manufacturer's instructions. Don't allow anything on top of the blanket while it is in use. (This includes other |

|blankets or comforters, even pets sleeping on top of the blanket.) Don't set electric blankets so high that they could burn someone who falls asleep |

|while they are on. Never go to sleep with a heating pad if it is turned on because it can cause serious burns even at relatively low settings. |

| |

|In case of an emergency, it is important to be able to reach the telephone without getting out of bed. |

| |

|Do not smoke in bed. Smoking in bed is a major cause of accidental fire deaths in homes. |

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|Locate heaters or other fire sources three feet from the bed to prevent the bed from catching on fire. |

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|[pic]Garage |

|Take extra precautions in storing and using flammable liquids, such as gasoline, paint thinners, etc. They produce invisible explosive vapors that can |

|ignite by a small spark at considerable distances from the flammable substance. Store outside the house. |

| |

|Basement, garages, and storage areas can contain many tripping hazards and sharp or pointed tools that can make a fall even more hazardous. Keep an |

|operating flashlight handy. Have an electrician install switches at each entrance to a dark area. |

| |

|Death may occur when people swallow such everyday substances as charcoal lighter, paint thinner and remover, antifreeze and turpentine. These poisons |

|should have child-resistant caps, be stored in the original containers with the original labels, and be kept locked up out of sight and reach of |

|children. |

| |

|[pic]General |

|Purchase a smoke detector if you do not have one. Smoke detectors are inexpensive and are required by law in many localities. Check local codes and |

|regulations before you buy your smoke detector because some codes require specific types of detectors. They provide an early warning which is critical |

|because the longer the delay, the deadlier the consequences. Read the instructions that come with the detector for advice on the best place to install |

|it. At a minimum, detectors should be located near bedrooms and |

|one on every floor. Follow the manufacturer's instructions for proper maintenance. Never disconnect a detector. Consider relocating the detector rather |

|than disconnecting it if it is subject to nuisance alarms, e.g. from cooking. Replace the battery annually, or when a "chirping" sound is heard. |

| |

|Be sure that the chimney and stovepipe were installed correctly in accordance with the manufacturer's recommendations and local codes. If there is any |

|doubt, a building inspector or fire official can determine whether the system is properly installed. Minimize creosote formation by using proper stove |

|size and avoiding use of low damper settings for |

|extended periods of time. Have the chimney checked and cleaned routinely by a chimney "sweep" at least once a year. Inspect it frequently, as often as |

|twice a month if necessary, and clean when a creosote buildup is noted. |

| |

|Never use charcoal to cook or provide heat inside enclosed areas such as tents, campers, vans, cars, trucks, homes, garages, or mobile homes because the |

|carbon monoxide can kill you. |

| |

|Establish advanced family planning for escape. It is an important partner with smoke detectors and it will prepare you for a fire emergency. |

| |

|Arrange furniture so that outlets are available for lamps and appliances without the use of extension cords. If you must use an extension cord, place it |

|on the floor against a wall where people cannot trip over it. Remove cords from under furniture or carpeting. Replace damaged or frayed cords. If the |

|rating on the cord is exceeded because of the power requirements of one or more appliances being used on the cord, change the cord to a higher rated one |

|or unplug some appliances. |

| |

|Remove rugs and runners that tend to slide. Apply double-faced adhesive carpet tape or rubber matting to the backs of rugs and runners. Purchase rugs |

|with slip-resistant backing. Over time, adhesive on tape can wear away. Rugs with slip-resistant backing also become less effective as they are washed. |

| |

|Telephone numbers for the Police, Fire Department, and local Poison Control Center, along with a neighbor's number, should be readily available. Write |

|the numbers in large print and tape them to the phone, or place them near the phone where they can be seen easily. |

| |

|Have at least one telephone located where it would be accessible in the event of an accident which leaves you unable to stand. |

| |

|Unusually warm or hot outlets or switches may indicate that an unsafe wiring condition exists. Unplug cords from outlets and do not use the switches. |

|Have an electrician check the wiring as soon as possible.  |

| |

|Unvented heaters should be used with room doors open or window slightly open to provide ventilation. The correct fuel, as recommended by the |

|manufacturer, should always be used. Vented heaters should have proper venting, and the venting system should be checked frequently. Improper venting is |

|the most frequent cause of carbon monoxide poisoning, and older consumers are at special risk. |

| |

|If you don't have a step stool, consider buying one. Choose one with a handrail that you can hold onto while standing on the top step. Before climbing on|

|any step stool, make sure it is fully opened and stable. Tighten screws and braces on the step stool. Discard step stools with broken parts. |

| |

|For all stairways, check lighting, handrails, and the condition of the steps and coverings. Stairs should be lighted so that each step, particularly the |

|step edges, can be clearly seen while going up and down stairs. Consider refinishing or replacing worn treads, or replacing worn carpeting. Worn or torn |

|coverings or nails sticking out from coverings could snag your foot or cause you to trip. The lighting should not produce glare or shadows along the |

|stairway. You should be able to turn on the lights before you use the |

|stairway from either end. If no other light is available, keep an operating flashlight in a convenient location at the top and bottom of the stairs. |

| |

|People can trip over objects left on stairs, particularly in the event of an emergency or fire. Remove all objects from the stairway. |

| |

|Lead-based paint is a major source of lead poisoning for children and can also affect adults. In children, lead poisoning can cause irreversible brain |

|damage and can impair mental functioning. In adults, it can cause irritability, poor muscle coordination, and nerve damage to the sense organs and nerves|

|controlling the body. If you have lead-based paint, you should take steps to reduce your exposure to lead. Avoid activities that will |

|disturb or damage lead-based paint and create dust. Contact your state and local health departments' lead poisoning prevention programs and housing |

|authorities for information about testing labs and contractors who can safely remove lead-based paint. |

| |

|Your home might have plumbing with lead or lead solder. Call your local health department or water supplier to find out about testing your water. You |

|cannot see, smell, or taste lead, and boiling your water will not get rid of lead. If you think your plumbing might have lead in it, use only cold water |

|for drinking and cooking. Run water for 15 to 30 seconds before drinking it, especially if you have not used your water for a few hours. |

| |

|Regularly have a professional check your spa or hot tub and make sure it is in good, safe working condition, and that drain covers are in place and not |

|cracked or missing. Check the drain covers yourself throughout the year. Know where the cut-off switch for your pump is so you can turn it off in an |

|emergency. Be aware that consuming alcohol while using a spa could lead to drowning. Keep the temperature of the water in the spa at 104 degrees |

|Fahrenheit or below. |

| |

|If possible, change the water in your room humidifier daily. Empty the tank before you fill it. Clean your room humidifier well and often during the |

|heating season. Be sure to unplug the humidifier before cleaning. Follow the manufacturer's suggested cleaning methods. If chlorine bleach or other |

|cleaning product or disinfectant is used, make sure to rinse the tank well to avoid breathing harmful chemicals. |

|Operate portable electric heaters away from combustible materials. Do not place heaters where towels or the like could fall on the appliance and trigger |

|a fire. Avoid using extension cords unless absolutely necessary. If you must use an extension cord with your electric heater, make sure it is marked with|

|a power rating at least as high as that of the heater itself. Keep the cord stretched out. Do not permit the cord to become buried under carpeting or |

|rugs. Do not place anything on top of the cord. Never place |

|heaters on cabinets, tables, furniture or the like. Never use heaters to dry |

|wearing apparel or shoes. |

| |

|Always check to see that cigarettes are extinguished before emptying ashtrays. Stubs that are still burning can ignite trash. |

| |

|Look for furniture designed to reduce the likelihood of furniture fire from cigarettes. Much of the furniture manufactured today has significantly |

|greater resistance to ignition by cigarettes than upholstered furniture manufactured 10 to 15 years ago. This is particularly true of furniture |

|manufactured to comply with the requirements of the Upholstered |

|Furniture Action Council's (UFAC) Voluntary Action Program. Such upholstered furniture may be identified by the gold colored tag on the furniture item. |

|  |

|The legend on the front of the tag in red letters states -- "Important Consumer Safety Information from UFAC." |

| |

|Always check the furniture where smokers have been sitting for improperly discarded smoking materials. Ashes and lighted cigarettes can fall unnoticed |

|behind or between cushions or under furniture. |

| |

|Do not place or leave ashtrays on the arms of chairs where they can be knocked off. |

| |

|Consider fabrics such as 100 percent polyester, nylon, wool and silk that are difficult to ignite and tend to self extinguish. Consider purchasing |

|garments that can be removed without having to pull them over the head. Clothes that are easily removed can help prevent serious burns. If a garment can |

|be quickly stripped off when it catches fire, injury will be far less severe or avoided altogether. |

| |

|  |

|[pic]Kitchen |

|Never place or store pot holders, plastic utensils, towels and other non-cooking equipment on or near the range because these items can be ignited. |

| |

|Roll up or fasten long loose sleeves with pins or elastic bands while cooking. Do not reach across a range while cooking. Long loose sleeves are more |

|likely to catch on fire than are short sleeves. Long loose sleeves are also more apt to catch on pot handles, overturning pots and pans and cause scalds.|

| |

|Keep constant vigilance on any cooking that is required above the "keep warm" setting. |

|Know where the "danger" items are -- medicines, toxic bleaches, oven and drain cleaners, paint solvents, polishes, and waxes. Look for items packaged in |

|child-resistant containers. Don't leave them under a sink or in plain view in a garage -- lock them away in a secure place, out of a child's sight and |

|reach. |

| |

|[pic]Yard |

|A swimming pool should have a fence or barrier surrounding all four sides with self-closing and self-latching gates. If the house is part of the barrier,|

|all doors leading from the house to the pool should be protected with an alarm. Position latches out of reach of young children. Keep all doors and |

|windows leading to the pool area secure to prevent small children from getting to the pool. |

| |

|Never leave a child unsupervised near a pool. During social gatherings at or near a pool, appoint a "designated watcher" to protect young children from |

|pool accidents. Adults may take turns being the "watcher." When adults become preoccupied, children are at risk. If a child is missing, check the pool |

|first. Seconds count in preventing death or disability. Go to the edge of the pool and scan the entire pool, bottom and surface, as well as the pool |

|area. |

| |

|Place tables and chairs well away from the pool fence to prevent children from climbing into the pool area. |

| |

|Have a telephone at poolside to avoid having to leave children unattended in or near the pool to answer a telephone elsewhere. Keep emergency numbers at |

|the poolside telephone. |

|Learn CPR (cardiopulmonary resuscitation). Keep rescue equipment by the pool. |

| |

|Divers should observe the following precautions. Never dive into above-ground pools. They are too shallow. Don't dive from the side of an in-ground pool.|

|Enter the water feet first. Dive only from the end of the diving board and not from the sides. Dive with your hands in front of you and always steer up |

|immediately upon entering the water to avoid hitting the bottom or sides of the pool. Don't dive if you have been using alcohol |

|or drugs because your reaction time may be too slow. Improper use of pool slides presents the same danger as improper diving techniques. Never slide down|

|head first; slide down feet first only. |

| |

|Always store pesticides away from children's reach, in a locked cabinet or garden shed. Read the label first and follow the directions to the letter, |

|including all precautions and restrictions. Before applying pesticides (indoors and outdoors), remove children and their toys from the area and keep them|

|away until it is dry or as recommended by the label. Never leave pesticides unattended when you are using them -- not even for a few |

|minutes. Never transfer pesticides to other containers -- children may associate certain containers with food or drink. Use child-resistant packaging |

|properly by closing the container tightly after use. Alert others to the potential hazard, especially grandparents and caregivers. |

| |

|Use paint strippers outdoors if possible. If you must use them indoors, cross-ventilate by opening all doors and windows. Make sure there is fresh air |

|movement throughout the room. Ventilate the area before, during, and after applying and stripping. Never use any paint stripper in a poorly ventilated |

|area. If work must be done indoors under low ventilation conditions, consider having the work done professionally instead of |

|attempting it yourself. Do not use flammable paint strippers near any source of sparks, flame, or high heat. Do not work near gas stoves, kerosene |

|heaters, gas or electric water heaters, gas or electric clothes dryers, gas or electric furnaces, gas or electric space heaters, sanders, buffers, or |

|other electric hand tools. Open flames, cigarettes, matches,lighters, pilot light, or electric sparks can cause the chemicals in the paint strippers to |

|suddenly catch fire. |

| |

|(NOTE: All information comes courtesy of the U.S. Consumer Product |

|Safety Commission, Washington, D.C. 20207) |

Home Safety Checklist

This checklist is designed to help homeowners determine areas of a home that need to be checked for safety concerns.  This check list does not represent all of the areas of a home that need the be checked or maintained.

For Fire Safety Information click here

Top of Form

|Are there smoke detectors in each bedroom and in a common living area? |[pic] |[pic] |

| |Yes |No |

|Are the smoke detectors powered by the main electrical supply with a battery backup? |[pic] |[pic] |

| |Yes |No |

|Are all counter electrical outlets protected by a clearly visible circuit breaker? |[pic] |[pic] |

| |Yes |No |

|Has the contractor installed fireblocking where needed in the stud runs and at the top and bottom |[pic] |[pic] |

|of all stairways? |Yes |No |

|Have the spaces around wires and pipes been firestopped and treated against the passage of toxic |[pic] |[pic] |

|fumes with an approved firestopping filler, (not foam, fiberglass or rockwool). |Yes |No |

|Is the home certified as being FireSafe? |[pic] |[pic] |

| |Yes |No |

|Has all framing been done with common nails as opposed to sinkers? |[pic] |[pic] |

| |Yes |No |

|Have hurricane straps been installed between the roof trusses and framing? |[pic] |[pic] |

| |Yes |No |

|Is there a first floor bedroom and bath to accommodate you following surgery or after childbirth? |[pic] |[pic] |

| |Yes |No |

|Is outside air provided to the fireplace, gas hot water heater or other fuel burning fixture? |[pic] |[pic] |

| |Yes |No |

|Is there a carbon monoxide detector located near the bedroom area? |[pic] |[pic] |

| |Yes |No |

|Do all chimneys have good clearance above the roof line? |[pic] |[pic] |

| |Yes |No |

|In areas where Radon gas might exist, has the home been built with Radon mitigation venting |[pic] |[pic] |

|already installed? |Yes |No |

|Will a ramp for handicap access be easily installed on the property if it is ever needed? |[pic] |[pic] |

| |Yes |No |

|In urban areas where window bars are used, will they be an impediment to escape in the event of a |[pic] |[pic] |

|fire? |Yes |No |

|Are areas around swimming pools clearly inaccessible to young children? Do all doors and/or gates |[pic] |[pic] |

|to swimming pool areas close and latch automatically? Are all the latching devices at least 48" |Yes |No |

|high? | | |

|Can deadbolt locks be unlocked from the inside without a key? Can a child work the lock and get |[pic] |[pic] |

|out in the event of fire? |Yes |No |

|Have steps been taken to seal an attached garage from the living area? The garage should be sealed|[pic] |[pic] |

|against the passage of fire or toxic gases including carbon monoxide. |Yes |No |

Cost to Repair Guide

The following costs are intended as general cost estimates for repairs and/or improvements to a typical three bedroom home.  The scope and size of a project will dramatically affect actual costs. Costs also vary based on the part of the country the property is located. Also the quality and price of materials used varies widely. The information listed below should be used for basic planning and exploratory purposes.

|Roofing - Flashings - Chimneys |

|Install conventional asphalt shingles over existing shingles |$1.25 - $2 / sq. ft. |

|Strip and re-shingle with conventional shingles |$2 - $3 / sq. ft |

|Strip and re-roof with cedar shingles |$5 - $7 per sq. ft. |

|Strip and replace built-up tar and gravel roof |$4 - $6 / sq. ft. |

|Strip and replace single-ply membrane |$4 - 6 / sq. ft. |

|Reflash typical chimney |$300 - $500 |

|Reflash typical skylight |$300 - $500 |

|Rebuild typical chimney above roof line |$100-$200 / lin. ft. |

|Repoint typical chimney above roof line |$20-$30 / row |

|Exterior Install galvanized or aluminum gutters and downspouts |$3 - $5 / lin. ft. |

|Soffits - Fascias - Repointing - Water Proofing | |

|Install aluminum soffits and fascia |$8 - $12 / lin. ft |

|Install aluminum or vinyl siding |$3 - $4.50 / sq. ft. |

|Repoint exterior wall (soft mortar) |$3 - 4.50 / sq. ft |

|Repoint exterior wall (hard mortar) |$6 - $8 / sq. ft. |

|Parge foundation walls |$3 - $4 / sq. ft. |

|Damp proof foundation walls and install weeping tile |$60-$120 / lin. ft. |

|Garages - Decks - Retaining Walls - Foundation | |

|Install a deck |$12- $20 / sq. ft. |

|Rebuild exterior basement stairwell |$3500 - $5000 |

|Build detached garage(single) |$8000 and up |

|Build detached garage (double) |$12000 and up |

|Build retaining wall (wood) |$20 - $25 /sq. ft. |

|Build retaining wall (concrete) |$30 - $40 / sq. ft. |

|Structure Underpin one corner of house |$3500 and up |

|Underpin or add foundations |$300 + /lin. ft. |

|Lower basement floor by underpinning and/or bench footings |$150-$300 / lin. ft. |

|Replace deteriorating sill beam with concrete |$60 and up/ lin. ft. |

|Install basement support post with proper foundation |$200 - $400 |

|Perform chemical treatment for termites |$500 and up |

|Repair minor crack in poured concrete foundation |$400 - $800 |

| | |

| | |

| | |

| | |

| | |

| | |

|Electric Repairs - Upgrades | |

|Electrical Upgrade electrical service to 100 amps |$1200-1800 |

|Upgrade electrical service to 200 amps |$1500 - $2000 |

|Install new circuit breaker panel |$500 - $700 |

|Add 120 volt circuit |$150 - $250 |

|Add 240 volt circuit |$250 - $350 |

|Add conventional receptacle |$75 - $150 |

|Replace conventional receptacle with ground fault circuit receptacle |$60 - $90 |

|Rewire electrical outlet with reversed polarity |$5 - $10 ea. |

|(assuming electrician already there) | |

|Install conventional alarm system fire- burg |$1000 and up |

|Heating Systems - Air Conditioning | |

|Heating install mid-efficiency forced-air furnace |$1700 - $2500 |

|Install high-efficiency forced-air furnace |$2500 - $3500 |

|Install drum-type humidifier |$200 - $300 |

|Install electronic air filter |$500 - $800 |

|Install mid-efficiency boiler |$2500 - $4000 |

|Install high-efficiency boiler |$5000 - $9000 |

|Rebuild firepot (refractory) on boiler |$500 - $800 |

|Install circulating pump |$400 - $600 |

|Install chimney liner |$300 - $700 |

|Install set-back thermostat |$100 - $300 |

|Remove oil tank from basement |$200 - $400 |

|Remove abandoned underground oil tank |$3500 and up |

|Replace radiator valve |$75 - $150 |

|Add electric baseboard heater |$150 - $250 |

|Convert from hot water heating to forced-air (cape) |$8000 - $10000 |

|Convert from hot water heating to forced-air (two story) |$15000 - $20000 |

|Clean ductwork |$250 and up |

|Cooling/Heat Pumps Add central air conditioning on existing forced-air system |$2000-$3000 |

|Add heat pump to forced-air system |$3000-$4000 |

|Replace heat pump or air conditioning compressor |$800 - $1400 |

|Install independent air conditioning system |$8000 - $15000 |

|Insulation | |

|Insulation Insulate open attic to modern standards |$1 - $1.50 / sq. ft. |

|Blow insulation into flat roof, cathedral ceiling or wall cavity |$2 - $3.50 /sq. ft. |

|Improve attic ventilation |$40 - $50 per vent |

|Plumbing | |

|Plumbing Replace galvanized piping with copper (2 story with one bathroom) |$2000 - $2500 |

|Replace water line to house |$1500 - $3500 |

|Replace toilet |$300 and up |

|Replace basin |$200 and up |

|Replace bathtub, including ceramic tile |$1500 and up |

|Install whirlpool bath |$3000 and up |

|Retile bathtub enclosure |$800 - $1200 |

|Replace leaking shower stall pan |$1000 - $1600 |

|Rebuild tile shower stall |$1500 - $2500 |

|Replace laundry tubs |$250 - $500 |

|Remodel four-piece bathroom completely |$6000 and up |

|Connect waste plumbing system to municipal sewers |$3000 and up |

|Install submersible pump |$800 and up |

|Install suction or jet pump |$400 - $600 |

|Install modest basement bathroom |$4000 and up |

|Carpentry - Finish Work | |

|Sand and refinish hardwood floors |$1.50 - $3 /sq. ft. |

|Interior add drywall over plaster |$1.50-$2.50 /sq. ft |

|Install replacement windows |$200 - $400 ea |

|Install storm windows |$75 - $200 ea. |

|Install skylight |$500 and up |

|Remodel kitchen completely |$8000 and up |

|Painting (trim only) |$1500 - $2500 |

|Painting (trim and wall surfaces) |$3000 and up |

|Fireplaces - Stoves | |

|Repoint chimney (2 story) |$700 and up |

|Convert coal-burning fireplace to wood-burning unit |$800 and up |

|Install masonry fireplace (if flue already roughed - in ) |$2000 and up |

|Install zero-clearance fireplace (including chimney) |$2500 and up |

|Install glass doors on fireplace |$300 and up |

|Install gas Insert into existing fireplace |$2500 and up |

Bottom of Form

 

|Home Maintenance and |

|Repair Books |

| |

| |Do-It-Yourself | |50 Simple Ways to Save Your |

| |Hints & Tips | |House |

| |Great Ideas for Inside, | |An excellent book for the |

| |Outside, and All Around Your| |homeowner concerned with |

| |Hous | |home maintenance |

| | | | |

| | | | |

| | | | |

| | | | |

| | | | |

| |The Complete Photo Guide to | |Do-It-Yourself Manual |

| |Home Repair | |This manual will help you in|

| |This guide has great photos | |nearly all you home repair |

| |to help the do it yourself | |and improvement projects. |

| |home repair person | | |

| |The Gadget Guru's | |Exterior Home Repairs & |

| |Make-It-Easy Guide | |Improvements |

| |Great tips & tools you must | |A complete Library of home |

| |have ! | |improvement for the exterior|

| | | |of your home |

| | | | |

| | | |The Complete Idiot's Guide |

| | | |to Trouble-Free Home Repair |

| | | |This one is self explanatory|

| | | |! |

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