Central Iowa Canoe Club



Central Iowa Paddlers

Volume 4 Issue 1 March 2000

This newsletter is a publication of the Central Iowa Paddlers, an informal group of paddlesport enthusiasts. The mission of the club is to share information, promote recreation opportunities and paddlesport safety, and encourage care of our aquatic resources. The group includes new and experienced paddlers with canoes and kayaks of all kinds. Pass the word!

Remember to renew your newsletter subscription. Use the enclosed subscription form to order this year's Central Iowa paddling news - just $10!

MEANDERINGS

Well, I'm feeling good! Even though the rivers are low and iced over as I begin this newsletter, I am pumped for the coming paddling season. Along with several of you, I recently attended Iowa's EarthYear 2000 kickoff event, a meeting with Jeff Logsdon (Director of Dallas County Conservation Board) to discuss river stewardship activities, and a meeting with Iowa DNR staff to discuss updating the Iowa Canoe Guide. In early February, fifty (!) of you came to Walnut Woods State Park Lodge for our season planning party.

As you will see from the calendar of events, we have lots of fun activities scheduled for Year 2000. Plan to celebrate Iowa's rivers by paddling with us, learning with us and working with us.

See you around the bend!

Robin Fortney, Editor

TUESDAYS AT GRAYS LAKE

Bring your kayak or canoe. Bring your experience or lack thereof. Practice your paddling and safety skills and meet other paddlers. From 6 to 8 o'clock on Tuesday evenings starting on May 2 we will meet at Grays Lake Park on Fleur Drive in Des Moines. We will meet rain or shine, though we get off the

water when there is lightning!

Want to practice self-rescue, rolling your kayak, or a new paddle stroke? Join us at the swimming beach.

ADOPT-A-RIVER

Hey, great end-of season party last November! About 40 people attended. We enjoyed some delicious food and a beautiful fall day at Kuehn Conservation Area in Dallas County. Iowa DNR's Michelle Wilson told us about the Adopt-a-River program, and Jeff Logsdon of Dallas County Conservation Board shared his vision of river stewardship. Club members had an opportunity to share their thoughts about ways paddlers could be river stewards.

Al Foster and I recently met with Jeff Logsdon to explore how the club could partner with Dallas County in the Adopt-a-River program. Al volunteered to shepherd the program, and he suggested that we adopt the Middle Raccoon River in Dallas County since it's his personal favorite and he has already removed many tires from the river. We are excited about the possibilities!

As a result of member input last fall, we decided to focus on the following kinds of activities:

[pic] River Cleanup: Let's do more of what we have been doing, but with help from the county to get equipment and landowner help.

[pic] River Mapping: There are lots of possibilities here -marking points of interest, wildlife, and scenic views, and making technical observations (training will be required).

[pic] Interpretive Trail Development: Install mile markers or interpretive signs.

[pic] Water Quality Monitoring: Sample and test river water (training will be required).

[pic] Interpretive Trips: Take theme trips with biologists, geologists, and other "ologists" for public education (check out the season schedule)

[pic] Reporting: Report dump sites, pollution, river hazards or problems to the county.

We will serve as county conservation board volunteers. Watch the season schedule for opportunities to participate.

Contact Al at alanfoster@ or 515-277-0241 if you want to participate in this program or have any questions. As Al says, "This will be a great project to be part of!"

Jeff Logsdon offers the following background: "Our [Dallas County] program sees rivers as the major landscape elements of the watershed. The Raccoon River Greenbelt program has given us a way of analyzing, investigating, interpreting, protecting, and making a better place. The next stage is to develop a regional park system within the greenbelt.

Regional parks will be privately owned lands with land owner agreements to protect the region in particular ways. The river is the commons, the public place threading through private land with nodes of public land such as Hanging Rock, Big Bend, and Kuehn Conserva-tion Area. The viewshed is also public, and sediment, wildlife, and habitat are also part of the commons.

The adoption of the river seems to be a first step moving toward the direction of protecting and improving and making available large landscapes. I see us working together in these ways to make concepts real."

PARTNERSHIPS

The Iowa Department of Natural Resources is seeking our help to update the Iowa Canoe Guide. While most of the information in the Guide is correct, some important information may be inaccurate or missing.

Here's what you do. Select a river from the Iowa Canoe Guide. Call Michelle at 515-281-8675 for a copy of the Guide or find the Guide on the web at state.ia.us/parks/canoe/canoegui.htm.

Invite some friends to float the river with you. Mark up, or add to, the Iowa Canoe Guide pages for this river, noting any revisions to the following items:

[pic] Access points

[pic] Bridges

[pic] Dams and other hazards

[pic] Portages

[pic] Good routes for ferrying boats

[pic] Points of interest

[pic] River miles between access points (a GPS is helpful here)

[pic] Name, address and phone of any local canoe outfitters

Mail information by December 31, 2000 to:

Michelle Wilson

Iowa Department of Natural Resources

Wallace State Office Building

900 East Grand Avenue

Des Moines, IA 50319

Have fun and serve the paddling community at the same time - it's as easy as floating a river!

TRIP REPORTS

Please send highlights of your trip to the Newsletter Editor as soon as possible after your event so we can all enjoy hearing about your adventures!

MISSOURI RIVER

By Karla Ziesemer

We had a total of eleven eager paddlers for this late summer outing. Gloria Walters and I of the "Nebraska Connection" were the float trip facilitators. We had four kayakers from central Iowa and seven canoeists from Nebraska (we ignore that one of these seven lives in Kansas and another in a unique place called Council Bluffs.

We had several rendezvous points for the morning. Liz, Bryan, Gloria and Dennis met at the Ziesemer's place in Omaha. We crossed over to the Wilson Island take-out where Bob G abandoned his vehicle, grabbed a muffin, packed his mean stream fighting machine and jumped in the now-crowded vehicle as it took off to Exit 89 on Interstate 29 to meet Rob, Bob, Robin and Casey. We all got there within minutes of each other. Our Remington Boat Launch was close by, just west of Mondamin.

By 10:45 a.m. we were off, heading to our first destination (lunch) at the Cottonwood Marina eight miles down river, as food is never far from the minds of serious paddlers. Once headed downstream, everyone who packed a water gun felt a strong need to demonstrate his or her individual weapon. Nebraska was loaded and Iowa was unarmed. Of particular note was the lust in the eyes of the easterners for the weapon held by Bob G. His was the biggest. He made a big deal about how heavy it was and how his arms got tired from holding it. All morning we could hear the murmuring of the Iowans, "I've got to have one. I've got to have one!"

The river was muddy and brown (as the Missouri always is) and swifter than the prairie streams found elsewhere in the Midwest. With very little effort, we arrived at the marina and some ate what they bought, while the others ate what they brought. During this break, the Iowans took advantage of the code that requires one not to bring his weapon to the table. Was Bob G surprised to find his gun possessed by another and used against him as we boarded boats after lunch!

The next ten miles passed swiftly with water fights and riding motorboat wakes. Eventually the water guns found their way to their rightful owners, and Robin did a memorable bug count in the bushes. There was too much traffic on the river to see any wildlife, but off-season a surprising amount can be seen as there are several protected wildlife areas along this stretch.

We arrived at Wilson Island shortly after 4 p.m. Robin joined the Nebraskans for supper near Honey Creek while the easterners headed east.

NORTH RACCOON RIVER

By Robin Fortney

I enjoyed a quiet float trip with my friend, Dan, on Labor Day 1999. Dan and I have found that an occasional float trip gets us away from other intrusion and provides time to chat and get caught up on each other's lives. Labor Day was one of those perfect days - clear, sunny, low humidity and warm temps - a great day to be on the water. Since the area's rivers were all running low, I suggested we float the North Raccoon from Minburn to Adel. It's always nice.

On this day, the river was very low, with a lagging current and uprooted trees lying all along the river. We had to stay alert to find the channel, picking our way through the trees and around sand bars, but still had to walk in a few places. The sand bars were mostly huge and white and dry, and we stopped for a leisurely lunch on one of them. There were a few campers along the way and fishermen closer to Adel where the dam keeps water at a depth handy for motorboats. Otherwise, we had the river to ourselves. We paddled the whole time, and it took about five hours to get to the take-out with a long lunch. There's something about river time, it's wonderfully lazy if you don't have something else planned.

DES MOINES RIVER I

By Gerry Rowland

Over the past several years I've been drawn especially to winter paddling on the Des Moines. It is very peaceful on the river then. There is no foliage to block the view of the shore, and the eagles are magnificent in the trees and soaring out over the water. The eagles tend to fly with me - soaring overhead, flying downstream and perching high in the trees, taking flight, wheeling, braking and diving out in front of me as I move down the river.

I've paddled through the winters of 1997-2000. This year there is a spectacular difference. With low precipitation, the river is very clear. On a sunny day, one can see the river bottom down 5-6 feet or more. Where the river pitches downward and riffles/rapids run swiftly, the water is often just a few inches deep. In many places the bottom is a golden sand. In several areas of the river, near Keosauqua and Runnels for instance, the rapids are covered with multi-colored rocks and pebbles. One can paddle for several miles, and then come upon the shallow areas that are these brilliantly colored rocky fields that extend from shore to shore and may be several hundred feet long. I used to think it a chore to get out of my boat and walk through shallow water. Now I look forward to these opportunities.

This past weekend I had a yearning to paddle near Cliffland (by Ottumwa). On one trip, I had witnessed the spectacle of a third eagle landing on a branch occupied by 2 others, then a loud crack, and branch and eagles tumbling down. The 3 eagles got untangled, but it was such a

clown show that I had to fill the wilderness with a laugh of delight.

This past Saturday, I found the river iced in, so I took time to visit the gravesite of Chief Wapello near Agency. This was an amazing place. The chief who ceded Iowa to the U.S. is buried with the family of the federal agent who accepted the transfer. The Sac and Fox tribes inhabited the bluffs and valleys all along this part of the river. I learned that Ottumwa was first called Appanoose Rapids after the chief whose people lived by the rapids below Ottumwa, before they were moved to the Red Rock area (which was administered by the agents at Ft. Des Moines).

DES MOINES RIVER II

By Gerry Rowland

My first winter 2000 kayak trip was quite spectacular, with deer, eagles, cold water, warm breezes, and tasty fudge. I camped over at Bentonsport (3 hours south of Des Moines) on Friday night. It is quite beautiful along the river, with the bright stars overhead and the sound of the water to send you off to sleep. There was heavy frost on the window in the morning. I slept on an air mattress in the van, warm in a well-insulated mummy bag.

At the crack of dawn, I moved the tow car to Bonaparte, about four miles down river, then headed back to Keosauqua, the city of the "great bend." I got into my wet suit, set up the boat, and got launched at 8 a.m. In less than 5 minutes, I hit the first obstacle, low water at the

first set of rapids. The bottom was rocky, and the shallow water extended several hundred feet, so I got out of the kayak and plunged ahead with the boat in tow. The icy water hit my feet right away, but the neoprene socks and insulated boots kept things bearable. It's about four miles to the end of the great bend, and the eagles were waiting, six of them soaring through the trees and out over the water. I saw eagles the whole way. At one point I paddled right up to a magnificent great bird perched on a branch about 25 feet above the water.

It was another four miles to Bentonsport, with many low water areas and about 20 short hiking trips along the sandy bottom. It was fascinating to watch the changing rock formations and mini sand dunes in an infinite variety of patterns. The wind came up and the waves refracted the light into thousands of dancing golden bands along the riverbed. As the wind increased, small waves moved across the water, crystal clear and filled with a golden light that dazzled the eye. So the low water had a golden lining. This is the clear water that early explorers and settlers reported when this was the river Moingona.

It was fun to stop in Bentonsport, have some fudge and good hot coffee, and chat with the folks at the general store about the river and the

river trail. Then I was on to Bonaparte, another four-mile leg. With no current and all that hiking, this 12-mile stretch took me 6 hours and I

felt sore for 2 days after. It may not be winter on the calendar, but winter kayaking season has definitely begun.

THANKSGIVING ON THE GULF

By Rob Tull

So, there we were, looking up at each other over a hasty lunch in Memphis. Dave says, "Happy Thanksgiving, Rob," It was a good one. We were on our way home from kayaking in the gulf, by way of New Orleans. We had left Des Moines on the Friday afternoon before Thanksgiving on our way to Mississippi for a few days of fun in the sun. We met up with Ron at his house and the three of us headed south in two cars.

We rolled into Biloxi Saturday morning and drove up the shore until we landed in a state park on the water. We set up camp and went back into town to get the lay of the land. We needed to scope out all the local hangouts for food and coffee (if you think you're going to find a decent cup of latte in Mississippi, you better bring it with you). The food, however, is another matter all together. The next day we kayaked from the park through a small channel out into the gulf to get some salt on our boats. We didn't paddle a lot that day, just enough to get the feel of where we were, then it was back into town for more food.

Camping in the state park worked well for a few days, then we got the itch to paddle out to Horn Island and camp on the white beaches. Dave and I paddled out the 12 miles or so and set up camp for the night. On the way out, Dave found a pole in the middle of nowhere to climb on. When we were almost to Horn Island, 20-30 dolphins surfaced in front of Dave. He was surprised at the big pod appearing so close to him. They were driving small fish into the shallows and weren't too concerned with a couple of kayakers watching them eat. Camping on Horn Island was better than staying in the state park, of course, but the food didn't measure up. We had the entire Island to ourselves, and had plenty of driftwood for one of Dave's famous beach fires (don't try this at home). We met up with Ron back on shore the next afternoon and then back to town to wipe last night's dinner out of our minds; fresh shrimp did the trick. Wednesday morning Ron started driving home, while Dave and I drove to New Orleans to take a break from all the relentless paddling we'd been doing. We intended to stay a few days, but ran out of cash in short order. Bourbon Street has a way of doing that. So, there we were in Memphis having a late lunch Thanksgiving day on the way

back to Iowa. The weather was nice every day and the food was great. It was a trip we'll tell stories about at least until next year!

CANNON RIVER

By Mark Metelman

The put-in was at Cannon Falls. Immediately below the falls, there's a slight pitch that produces a small rapid. After this, the river is mostly straight with a handful of riffles. The only danger was a recently fallen limb. With a steady current, the river flowed through mostly private property, yet there was surprisingly little development.

The Cannon is one of six designated "Wild and Scenic Rivers" in Minnesota. Rock outcrop-pings, high bluffs, and cedar trees are all common scenery. The water clarity wasn't bad considering a fellow canoeist told me it rained about two inches the previous night.

Over 300 people were floating this section on July 31, 1999, mostly tubers. A group of campers had badminton rackets and were batting marshmallows at the paddlers. We took out at Welch, some 13 miles downstream.

Travel time from Des Moines to the Cannon area is about 3½-4 hours. There's a paved trail with some nice overlooks of the river valley, a steep creek, ski hill and outfitter at Welch. You may contact me at mmetelman@ or 515-221-2587 for river or access information.

UPPER IOWA RIVER

By Robin Fortney and Al Foster

We took the same trip, but not together, on October 16. Robin traveled with John Pearson and the State Preserves Advisory Board, while Al traveled with the crack-of-noon club. It was a great day for those who braved the forecast: 30% chance of showers, cold temps and low water.

Pearson's group started at the access below Kendallville. We had some wonderful resource people along: botanists, wildlife biologists, geologist, biology professor and cookie maker. There was enough water for most of us to paddle easily, but canoeists in tandem aluminum boats had to choose their way carefully. Though the day stayed cool, the sun came out and the day was fine. We lunched below Chimney Rock and had a cookie break mid-afternoon, thanks to Diane Ford-Shivvers.

Pearson manages the state preserves, and he and the other preserves advisors shared stories about the river and its natural history. The northeast corner of Iowa was not glaciated, so the bluffs and ancient river valleys remain. Vegetation remnants from the cold glacial period grow on the bluffs.

Al's group got off to a late start. We breakfasted at Mom's Long Branch Saloon at the recommendation of the Super 8 Motel in West Union. Not a place to send your friends - next year we'll overnight in Decorah!

Dean L thoroughly tested the ability of his clothing to repel water in a strainer early in the trip and then tested some of the group's spare clothing traversing an eddy line while ogling the bluffs. To warm up, we changed the paddling speed and covered the last four miles to Bluffton in less than an hour. We arrived under a beautiful half moon with the temperature now a brisk 44 degrees, happy about the great day and the car heater!

The next day, the crack-of-noon club paddled from Canoe Creek Access to Iverson Bridge, northeast of Decorah. The river is deeper and the palisades are gone, replaced with high sloping bluffs covered in oaks, cottonwoods and birch and capped with limestone towers. We lost count after 20 eagles were spotted. We saw hundreds of robins and black birds apparently getting ready to move south.

The group experimented with different equipment and strategies for keeping warm. We nicknamed the expedition the Gear & Beer Canoe Trip.

TRUMPETER SWANS &

WINTER PADDLING

By GerryRowland

Having heard a report that there were swans on the river south of the Saylorville Dam, I had to get out on the river. Last weekend, I paddled about 6 miles, doing the round trip from Birdland Marina to the Interurban Trail Bridge. There was ice along the shore, and the water was frozen south to Center Street dam. It felt good to be out on Lake Des Moines, so-called because there is no current to speak of.

This past week, I found the solution to paddling in low water in cold weather. My Sorel boots are insulated and water resistant, but some water gets in when I have to get out and pull the boat over the low water areas. That water is icy cold, but then the boots warm my feet to tolerable levels. Wanting better than tolerable I set out for a solution. Seal Skinz from Cabellas did not do the trick (water comes in over the top). I found some neoprene mukluk boots that come up to my knees at Canoesport Outfitters in Indianola that do the trick. I put on neoprene socks, wool socks, Seal Skinz, the mukluks, and then the Sorel boot shells and, voila, warm dry feet even in knee deep FREEZING COLD WATER.

Swans and new boots, too exciting! Up at 5 AM, set up and ready to go at Sycamore Access at 6:45, it was dark and foggy. When there was enough light, I got launched. No more than

200 feet upstream, I heard trumpet calls and the beating of strong wings. The flash of those great white bodies was a sight like no other.

It was a great paddle up to Saylorville. It was so foggy that I couldn't see the dam from the warning signs, but you can hear the rush of water, and I could see the lights on the road across the top of the dam. Just before the dam, I got to see and hear three swans take flight once more, and they passed overhead in a majestic formation.

So, if you've got some high warm boots and warm clothes, make a run up to the dam. It'll be the experience of a lifetime.

From Karen Creager: I went kayaking in my new boat about eight times last year. I'm still very much a novice, but what fun and freedom!

SKILL-BUILDING

Check out the canoe and kayak courses offered by the University of Minnesota-Duluth's Kayak & Canoe Institute: phone 218-726-6533 or email outdoor@d.umn.edu.

Closer to home, contact CanoeSport Outfitters in Indianola, IA to ask about their paddling classes and adventure program: phone 800-257-6080 or contact . These folks also offer canoe and kayak rentals.

CENTRAL IOWA PADDLERS - 2000 EVENT CALENDAR

Participants should contact the trip coordinator ahead of time in case river conditions or plans change. Take rain gear, extra clothes in a dry bag, plenty of water and snacks, hat, sunscreen, PFD, and extra paddle. Trip Coordinators should provide the following information to trip participants: stream section or lake, date(s), meeting time and place, expected float time, your name and phone number, and level of difficulty.

Saturday, April 22, Yellow River

Experience some fast water in northeast Iowa. Contact Greg Vitale at 515-266-8276 for more information.

Sunday, April 29, Brushy Creek Lake

We will paddle the lake at Brushy Creek State Park and then float Brushy Creek if there is enough water. Contact John Pearson at 515-281-3891 for more information.

Tuesday, May 2, Evenings on Grays Lake

Kick off our second season of Tuesday Evenings on Grays Lake, 6 to 8 o'clock. Grays Lake is located on Fleur Drive across from Waterworks Park in Des Moines. Make new paddling friends, try out a new boat or learn some new paddling skills. You will find the group down by the swimming beach.

Saturday, May 6, Chariton River

Float the lovely Chariton River below Rathbun Reservoir. Last year we saw four river otters. Contact John Poston at 515-872-2707 for more information.

Sunday, May 7, North Raccoon River

This is a favorite trip. Contact Greg Vitale at 515-266-8276 or Bill Graham at 515-274-43119 for more information.

Saturday, May 13, Canoe Basics Clinic

Dallas County Conservation Board is sponsoring this clinic on the Raccoon River. Come learn the basics of paddling or polish your skills. Contact the DCCB office at 515-465-3577.

Saturday, May 20, Des Moines River

We will start at Yellow Banks County Park east of Des Moines. Contact Gerry Rowland at 515-515-277-3092 for more information.

Week of May 21, Current River

Experience springtime in the Ozark Mountains. Float the Current River in southern Missouri. Contact Hugh Clatterbuck at 515-277-1327 for more information.

Week of June 4-10, Middle Raccoon River

Join this week long "Pass the Paddle" event at any time during the week. Contact the Dallas County Conservation Board office at 515-465-3577 for more details.

Saturday, June 24, Rivers 2000 - Water Trail Dedication

Join us to celebrate the new Des Moines River Canoe and Kayak Trail. Plan to participate in the nearly statewide kick-off of the officially designated Des Moines River trail. Contact Gerry Rowland at 515-277-3092 for more information.

Saturday, July 8, Middle Raccoon River

This is a public float sponsored by Dallas County Conservation Board. The theme of the trip will be the geology of the river valley. Contact the DCCB office at 515-465-3577 for more information.

Saturday, July 8, Des Moines River - Humboldt County

This float trip will be sponsored by the Des Moines River Restoration Committee, and will be from Rutland dam to Humboldt dam. For more information, contact Gerry Rowland at 515-277-3092.

Saturday and Sunday, July 15-16, Canoe Van Buren

Paddle the Des Moines River through scenic Van Buren County. Contact Stacy Glandon at 800-868-7822 for more information.

Week of July 30-August 5, Mississippi River Rumble

This year's Rumble starts in Winona, MN on Sunday July 30, 2000. Shuttling will take place on July 29. The trip will end on Saturday, August 5, in Bellevue, IA. Brochures will be available at Canoesport Outfitters in Indianola.

Friday-Sunday, August 11-13, Apostle Islands on Lake Superior

Prove you can do a self-rescue and you are welcome to join this trip. We will meet at Sand Bay on Lake Superior by mid-afternoon on Friday, paddle out to Sand Island, camp out Friday and Saturday nights on Sand Island. Depending on water conditions, we will paddle around the islands and/or hike Sand Island, returning on Sunday. Contact Rob Tull at qajaq303@ or 515-896-0723 for more information.

Saturday, August 12, Ottumwa Courier's River Ripple

This event was so successful last year that the Courier has scheduled it again. The trip will start at Chillicothe and the takeout will be in Ottumwa. Better access is promised! Contact Dave Kraemer at 515-684-4611 for more information.

Saturday, August 26, Middle Raccoon River

This is a public float sponsored by Dallas County Conservation Board. The theme of the trip will be the archaeology of the river valley. Contact the DCCB office at 515-465-3577 for more information.

Saturday-Sunday, September 9-10, Middle Raccoon River

Paddle the Middle Raccoon from Redfield to Kuehn Conservation area where a Native American celebration will be held in the afternoon and evening. Plan to camp out at Kuehn on Saturday evening, and paddle to the takeout on Sunday. Contact Robin Fortney at 515-277-1763 for more information.

Saturday, September 16, Middle Raccoon River

This is a public float sponsored by Dallas County Conservation Board. The theme of the trip will be water quality monitoring. Contact the DCCB office at 515-465-3577 for more information.

Sunday, October 8, Des Moines River

Join Robin for her second annual birthday float on the Des Moines River. We'll put in at Sycamore Access at 1 p.m. and do a leisurely float down to Birdland Marina. Contact Robin at 515-277-1763 for more information.

Saturday, October 14, Middle Raccoon River

This is a public float sponsored by Dallas County Conservation Board. The theme of the trip will be the scenic history of the river valley. Contact the DCCB office at 515-465-3577 for more information.

Week of November 5, Buffalo River

Travel to northwest Arkansas to float the middle section of the beautiful Buffalo River. Contact Hugh Clatterbuck at 515-277-1327 for more information.

Sunday, November 11, Fall Party

Come celebrate the season with a potluck lunch. Venue to be determined - any ideas? Plan to canoe in if there's water!

Canoeing and kayaking are potentially life-threatening sports. Participants on trips promoted by the club must accept responsibility and liability for their own preparedness and safety.

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