INSTALLATION, MAINTENANCE, AND SAFETY MANUAL



[pic]

Stealth Dump Trucks is a trademark of Stealth Dump Trucks, Inc

Installation,

maintenance,

and

safety manual

[pic]

Chevy/GMC 99-07, Over the Bumper Dumper

Stealth Dump Trucks, Inc.

111 Old Railway Rd.

Grafton, VA 23692 USA

(757)890-4888

sales@

Revision 1.05 April 2007

Copyright 2004-07 Stealth Dump Trucks, Inc., All rights reserved

NEVER USE IMPACT TOOLS TO INSTALL STAINLESS BOLTS, ONLY USE HAND TOOLS WITH ANTI-SIEZE LUBE

Contents

Introduction: This manual applies to trucks with the new round cross member frame only

I. Safety First! Page

A. Preparation for installation

1. General Precautions 4

2. Scope of work & skills required for installation

B. Specific Safety Warnings 5

1. Lifting, Rigging, and Weights

2. Electrical Safety

3. Fuel System Safety

II. Detailed Installation Instructions

A. Removal of the truck bed 6

1. Electrical system

2. Fuel Filler neck 7

3. Frame and bumper mounts

4. Lifting sling and support 8

B. Installing the Over The Bumper Dumper™

1. Parts identification and listing 9

2. Torsion Tube Mount assembly 13

3. Bed mounts and stiffeners 14

4. Main Link assembly 17

5. Scissor Hoist mounting 21

6. Pump mounting and hydraulics 23

7. Electrical connections 26

8. Remounting the bed 30

9. Body Alignment 34

10. Testing operation 35

11. Fuel Filler modifications 36

12. Vibrator installation (optional accessory) 38

III. Maintenance, Cleaning, and Lubrication 39

1. Safety pin

2. Hydraulic System Cylinder & Scissor

3. Hinge mechanism

4. Electrical System

Please read the entire manual BEFORE starting any installation tasks. This manual is very comprehensive and covers all tasks of a typical installation. Please write down any questions and call or email us for answers BEFORE taking apart the truck.

All dump trucks have special hazards associated with the product. We are not responsible for damage or bodily injury for the life of this product due to improper installation, operation, or maintenance. Overloading your truck voids both the vehicle warranty and this dump kit warranty.

It is the customers’ sole responsibility to install, operate and maintain this product in a safe manner. We are not responsible for errors or unintentional omissions in this manual. If these terms are not acceptable, please return the product freight prepaid before installation for a refund less 15% restocking charges.

Never use paint thinners, carburetor cleaners, or other solvents to clean the components of the system. Only use car wash soap and water.

Never spray high pressure water on the pump or hoist.

NEVER USE IMPACT TOOLS TO INSTALL STAINLESS BOLTS, ONLY USE HAND TOOLS WITH ANTI-SIEZE LUBE

Stealth Dump Trucks, Inc.

(757)890-4888

sales@

Installation, Maintenance, and Safety Manual

I. Safety First !

A. Preparation for installation

1. General Precautions: Wear appropriate safety protection for various aspects of the installation. We recommend clear safety glasses, leather or reinforced cotton work gloves, safety steel toed shoes, long pants, and long sleeve shirt. The installation requires heavy lifting of components weighing over 50 lbs., we recommend lower back support for these tasks. Use only properly rated overhead hoists for lifting and moving the bed. The installation should not require jacking up the vehicle, however, if you use a jack we recommend placing at least two jack stands under the vehicle while you work. Various holes will need to be drilled to mount components. Use only properly grounded electrical tools. Do not drill any holes without checking the back side for clearance or obstructions. Do not drill into the fuel tank, electrical wiring, hoses, brake or fuel lines. Do not create any sparks near the fuel tank, filler neck, fuel vent hoses, or the battery. When the bed is raised during installation, or maintenance, always use properly rated mechanical hoist. We recommend a secondary safety prop such as a board or saw horses to ensure against failure of the primary hoist or rigging. Never attempt to install this kit alone, there should always be at least two people present. If an accident occurs, the second person can render first aid, and/or call for help. NEVER operate the dumping unit while parked inside a garage with a ceiling height under 10 feet, or with overhead obstructions. Do not allow children to play in, under, or near the bed while raised. We recommend installing the switch inside the lockable center console, or power the switch from a source that requires the ignition key to be ‘ON’. Finally, the safe installation and use of this product is the responsibility of the owner/operator. Do not alter the design or materials used. Do not abuse, misuse, or overload the vehicle or dump mechanism for safety implications. Dump trucks have a very high center of gravity; always dump on level ground, never on a hillside.

2. Scope of work and skills required for installation: This job entails removal/installation of the pick-up truck bed, associated wire harness and fuel filler hose. Once removed, several components will be aligned by measurements, holes drilled, and attached by bolts, pins, or snap rings. The installation should be done on a hard flat surface such as a concrete floor, and indoors where possible. Persons skilled in the use of hand and power tools for carpentry, auto repair, electricians, machinists, or machinery repairs should be qualified to install the kit. Reading and following the steps in this manual is very important. If there were ‘shortcuts’ to the proper installation, we would publish them here. If you discover errors in this manual, or wish to contribute to improve the manuals, please contact us.

B. Specific Safety Warnings

1. Lifting, rigging, and Weights: The bed of a truck weighs approx. 450 lbs. depending on the model. We include a chain sling with the kit that is rated for at least 650lbs. We recommend using an overhead hoist or engine hoist rated for at least one ton. A typical engine hoist is depicted in various photographs of an installation. Wheeled engine hoists are unstable when loaded and moving, we recommend sweeping the floor clean to prevent wheel stops and tipping. It’s important to have at least one person ‘spotting’ the bed while lifting off the frame to prevent collision with the cab and paint damage. Two or three people should be used to roll the engine hoist while loaded to prevent tipping or damage. The bed should be placed on commercially available steel saw horses rated for 500 lbs. each. Wooden or home made sawhorses can be used, however, they must be designed for the weight, use thru bolts, and be stable. You will be working under the bed while supported by these sawhorses. Never work under the bed while only supported by the engine or overhead hoist. The elevating hinge assembly weighs 100 pounds. While working with the assembly, do not place your hands or arms under it when elevated. There are several pinch points which act in a scissor manner that could cause injury. Use wood blocking to prevent the hinge from closing on hands or arms. The scissor hoist assembly weighs 73 pounds and also has pinch points. Use wood blocking to hold the scissor while installing the pivot pins. The lid of the Shipping Crate is designed for this task. The hydraulic pump weighs 31 lbs., one person should hold it in place while another adjusts position and tightens bolts. Use proper lifting techniques while working.

2. Electrical Safety: Eye protection should always be worn while working near the battery. Lead-acid batteries contain hydrogen gas which is extremely explosive. Avoid any sparks or arcing by turning off the ignition key, and all lighting such as the dome or cargo light. Before beginning the removal of the bed, the battery should be disconnected from the positive terminal with the engine off and cool. Use an insulated 5/16” wrench and use care not to touch other metal components. Wrap the cable terminal in electrical tape temporarily to avoid future contact with the battery. When making electrical connections, ensure they are tight and the terminal or wire does not contact other grounded or charged components. Protect wires against pinching, crushing, chaffing, sharp edges and hot surfaces such as the exhaust system. Utilize tie wraps and electrical tape to ensure against strain or vibrations causing loosening or disconnections. When first energizing the hydraulic pump, have a wrench available to disconnect the battery should the pump or wiring be defective or connected incorrectly. If you are not qualified to work on electrical systems, or feel uncomfortable, please contact a local electrician for assistance.

3. Fuel System Safety: Gasoline vapors are explosive, do not smoke or create sparks while working on the fuel system. Modification to the filler neck hose should be performed outdoors, not in an enclosed garage where vapors may accumulate. The battery should be disconnected before working on the fuel system, and the engine cool. We recommend the fuel tank be under ¾ full before starting this task. Have proper fire extinguishing equipment available in case of accident.

Detailed Installation Instructions

A. Removal Of the Truck Bed

1. Electrical system: Disconnect the battery with the truck off and cool. Under the left rear area of the bed there is a junction plate for the electrical plugs from the tail & bumper lights. Trace the wires to the proper plugs. These plugs are removed by inserting a small regular screwdriver into the slot to release the catch, then pull. Removing the spare tire will ease the installation. See photo’s below:

[pic]

[pic]

Fuel Filler Neck: Using the T30 torx driver supplied in the kit, loosen two screws under the gas cap. Using a small regular screwdriver, pry up the plastic ‘push to lock’ fastener under the gas cap. Disconnect any gas cap to body retaining lanyard. Check the back side for other fasteners, pull down the filler neck out of the opening. Disconnect any grounding straps from the bed.

[pic]

The plastic shroud surrounding the filler neck can be removed now or later once the bed is off.

3. Frame and bumper mounts: The bed is attached to the frame by six or eight bolts. The bolts are located inside the C channel of the frame going up into the bed crossmembers. Using the 18mm socket supplied, remove all the bolts. Please wear eye protection under the truck. Place the bolts in your trucks spare tire tool bag, you may need them if you decide to reattach the bed in the future. There are 8 nuts holding the bumper wing supports to the frame. These are easier to remove with the bed off, see photo

[pic]

Lifting Sling & Support: Unsnap the tailgate support cable clips and tilt out the tailgate, set aside in a safe place. Find the chain slings in the shipping crate. Attach the ends of the chains to the bed lower tie down hoops.

[pic]

Attach the sling to the hoist and carefully lift the bed. Check for wiring, bolts, or hoses underneath.

Long bed trucks may require the use of a wheeled gantry and chain fall if an engine hoist won’t reach the center of the bed.

[pic]

Place the bed on the sawhorses, leave the engine hoist attached for safety.

Remove the plastic shroud from the fuel filler hose. Remove the 18mm nuts on the right and left bumper wing braces if not performed earlier. Store the braces, and fasteners, they will not be used.

B. Installing the Over The Bumper Dumper™

1. Parts Identification and Listing: Hinge Assembly parts labeled on Diagram 1:

-------------Actual parts may differ from drawing due to updates----------

1. Torsion Tube

2. Torsion Tube Frame Mounts (2 each) L-shape with 1” bore

3. Main Link (L-shaped rear pivot slips into rectangular tubing)

4. Rear Link, Left, Driver, Updated rear links are straight

5. Rear Link, Right, Passenger

6. Center Link (2)

7. Under Frame Mount (2), Right & Left for Center Link

8. Front Link (2)

9. Front Link Angle Mount & Rear Bed Stiffener

10. Forward Bed Angle Stiffener

11. Center Bar Updated is rectangular square tube

[pic]

Hinge assembly parts shown on Diagram 2:

12. Part Number omitted due to update-not shown

13. Torsion Tube Mount Bolts ½”-13 X 1.25” hex head (4) with washers

14. Torsion Tube Bolt 3/8” X 2” with lock nut (2)-Stainless

[pic]

Hinge assembly parts shown on Diagram 3: Updated parts will differ from diagram!

15. Stainless Steel 3/8”-16 X 3” Hex Head Bolts with washer and locknut (4) for bed stiffeners

16. Stainless 1/2”-13 X 2” with locknut (3) for Center Bar to Stiffener mounting

17. Hex head 5/8” X 2” bolt with locknut, two washers (2) for Front link to Stiffener Pivot

18. Various 5/8” stainless bolts with washers and locknuts already greased and installed in pivots

[pic]

Hinge assembly parts shown on Diagram 4: Updated parts will differ from diagram!

19. Rear Bed Mounts, Right & Left

20. Countersunk Flat Head 12mm X 20mm bolts (4) for Rear Bed Mounts

21. Hex head 1/2” X 2” bolt with locknut, two washers and large spacer (2) for Under Frame Mount

[pic]

Part # 6 Center link and Part #7 under frame mount not shown above

Scissor Hoist (Short Version) assembly parts shown on Diagram 5:

1. Safety pin (shipped in parts bag)

2. Channel Hinge

3. Upper Arms, Right & Left (2)

4. Stop Block (2)

5. Lower Arms (2)

6. Hydraulic Cylinder

7. Hoist Frame Mount

8. Upper Pivot Pin

9. Lower Pivot Pin

10. Frame Bolts 3/8”-16 X 4” with washers and locknuts (2)

[pic]

Long Version of the Scissor Hoist has longer Upper Arms, Part # 3-R & 3-L extend over part # 7.

Pump Mount assembly shown in Diagram 6:

1. Pump Mounting Plate

2. Part Number omitted with update-not shown

3. Pump Mount Bolt 3/8”-16 X 1” with retaining clip washer (2)-stainless

4. Frame Mount Bolts 3/8”-16 X 1.5” with washer & locknut (2)-stainless

[pic]

Installing the Over The Bumper Dumper

2. Torsion Tube Mount: Find the Torsion Tube Mounts, Torsion Tube Mounting Bolts, and Copper anti-seize lubricant. Test fit to truck frame as shown with long side of pipe facing out. Some trucks require a clearance notch cut on the frame for the Torsion Tube Pivot to pass thru the mount. Remove after test fit. Lightly coat the inside of the 1” bores of the mounts with lubricant.

[pic]

We recommend 2500 & 3500 models use the top 1500 model hole for an additional bolt by drilling the frame while attached during test fitting. An extra ½” bolt is included for this purpose. There may be a rivet head protruding on top of the C-frame where the rear cross member is attached. Grind or chisel off the rivet head closest to the bumper end on both driver and passenger side.

[pic][pic]

These mounts will be assembled to the hinge & truck bed while off the frame. The whole hinge assembly process is quicker while the bed is off the truck. Once those steps are complete the bed will be re-installed and attached to the frame with these mounts & bolts.

NEVER USE IMPACT TOOLS ON STAINLESS BOLTS, ONLY USE HAND TOOLS WITH ANTI-SIEZE !

3. Bed Mounts and Stiffeners

Find the stiffeners part# 9, 10, 11, and fasteners shown in Parts Diagram 1 and 3. Find the 3/8” drill bit provided and chuck it in an electric hand drill. Center bar is an angle iron on some trucks. Photo’s depict the short bed version without the extra bed cross member present in 3500 long beds.

[pic]

Please wear safety glasses provided in the kit for the following steps. There is a sheet metal heat shield under the passenger side of the bed. This may need to be bent down slightly to provide clearance for the bed stiffeners to be installed. Taking PN: 9 Rear Stiffener with the pivot bolt holes in the ends; pass it between the heat shield and bed in front of the third cross member from front. Mounting holes should face the rear toward cross member as shown. Taking PN: 10 Front Stiffener without the pivot bolt holes in the ends; pass it between the heat shield and bed behind the second cross member from front. Place PN: 11 Center Bar over PN: 10 and PN: 9. Align ½” bolt holes and insert Center bar bolts with washers on hex head end. Measure the width of the bed and mark the center of bed on both cross members. Move the stiffener assembly so PN: 11 Center Bar is aligned with the center of the bed.

[pic]

Use C-clamps or quick clamps to hold in position tight against the cross member and underside of bed. Center punch the holes and drill 3/8” holes thru both sides of the cross member as level as possible. Insert a 3” bolt after the first hole to ensure alignment for the other end. Place 3/8” fender washers on the opposite side of the cross members from the stiffeners, install locknuts. These 3/8” bolts should not be over tightened, otherwise the bed cross members will be compressed, possibly breaking the spot welds away from the bed.

Depending upon the configuration of the under body heat shield, it may need to be cut or bent up toward the bed floor for hoist clearance. Measure from the center bar to the heat shield, we recommend 4” of clearance for the entire distance between the stiffeners. The aluminum heat shield is best cut with a typical jig saw using a short metal cutting blade, or using an angle grinder with a cut-off wheel. Deburr the edge to ensure against cuts during the hoist installation.

Find the two 2” diameter countersunk nylon (white or black) bed bumpers and the short 12mm X 20mm flat head bolts. Screw these bumpers into the front two bed mounting threaded holes.

[pic]

Locate the Rear Bed Mounts (part # 19), find the four Countersunk Flat Head 12mm X 20mm bolts and hex wrench provided. Update: These rear mounts are shipped pre-assembled with the Rear link and Center link installed. The pivot bolts are greased and tightened to proper tension. Rotate the rear link down to install the Rear bed mounts.

[pic]

Go to the rear of the bed and install the bed mounts as shown with angle facing outside, and pivot hole to rear. Tighten flat head bolts. Rear link and center link not shown in photo, do not remove the links!

[pic]

Find the Right and Left 2 piece Main Link Assembly Parts shown below:

[pic]

Do not assemble yet per the above part identification picture, see next page.

4. Main Link Assembly

Starting with the left (passenger) 2-piece Main Link assembly, slip the torsion pivot into the rectangular tubing and align the holes for the 5/8” bolt as shown. These parts can be tight due to powder coating, use a rubber mallet if required.

[pic]

Find the Passenger Rear Link attached to the Passenger Rear Bed mount already assembled to the bed. All assembly locknuts face to the outside of the various linkages to allow clearance against the truck frame. Place a stainless washer over the Main Link 5/8” bolt. Lightly lubricate with anti-sieze and install the Main Link 5/8” bolt thru the center hole of the Rear Link closest to the short end as shown.

Photos of the assembly are shown on a bench rather than under the truck bed.

[pic]

Place a stainless washer between the Rear Link PN:5 and the Main Link PN: 3 as a spacer. The spacer prevents the links from rubbing together and cannot be omitted.

-------DO NOT ASSEMBLE THE DRIVER SIDE AT THIS TIME-------

NEVER USE IMPACT TOOLS TO INSTALL STAINLESS BOLTS, ONLY USE HAND TOOLS WITH ANTI-SIEZE LUBE

Place a stainless washer over the thread end and tighten locknut. The tightness of this bolt determines the stability of the assembly. The links should move with some resistance, not freely. Do not over tighten.

[pic]

Photos of the assembly are shown on a bench rather than under the truck bed.

-------DO NOT ASSEMBLE THE DRIVER SIDE AT THIS TIME-------

NEVER USE IMPACT TOOLS TO INSTALL STAINLESS BOLTS, ONLY USE HAND TOOLS WITH ANTI-SIEZE LUBE

Insert fully assembled Main Link 1” diameter pivot bars into the Torsion Tube Mounts.

[pic]

The Pivots telescope into the Torsion Tube until the 3/8” holes align with the slots in the Tube per Diagram 2 on page 10. Insert 3/8” bolts thru Torsion Tube slots and finger tighten locknuts to allow slot adjustment.

[pic]

A rubber mallet may be required to insert Pivots into the Torsion Tube, it is a tight fit by design.

Find the driver side mount PN:2, pivot PN:3 and assemble onto the Torsion tube in a mirror image of above photo. Telescope the front half of PN:3 on driver side and assemble 5/8” pivot bolt to Rear link with lube & spacer washer same as passenger side.

Find the bag with the two front links, two short bolts and two long bolts. The front links come pre-assembled in some cases. Assemble to the slot end of both Main links PN:3. Swing up main links on both sides of bed and assemble to rear stiffener PN:9 at the pivot hole. Use anti-sieze to lubricate pivot holes, slot, and threads.

[pic][pic]

Adjust the width of the hinge system at the torsion tube bolt slots to align the front of the main links with PN: 9 pivots. Part number 9 is the rear stiffener which should already be installed under the truck bed.

Pull PN:6, Center link, down on both sides of the hinge system.

[pic]

Lift hinge system up while rotating forward to tuck assembly under truck bed. Use tie wraps or rope around PN:3, main link, and PN:5, rear link to hold hinge in collapsed position.

5. Scissor Hoist Mounting

Find the scissor hoist assembly and the snap ring pliers. Refer to Diagram 5 and remove the snap ring from the far or left side of Lower Pivot Pin # 9. Slide the pin out far enough to remove the Lower Hoist mount #7. Insert the pin back thru the hoist and practice installing the snap ring. With a measuring tape, find the center of the second frame cross member from the back of the truck cab as shown on photo. Position the center of the lower hoist mount at the center of the cross member facing to the rear. Check for clearance to the gas tank or other obstructions, adjust the mount to allow at least 1 ½” space to the fuel tank. It can be off center to ensure clearance, clamp it in a level position.

Photo is looking down on top of mount, gas tank to left.

[pic]

Look thru the cross member tube for pipes or wires, check backside before center punching and drilling two 3/8” holes. Hold drill straight up for perpendicular holes thru the 3” dia. Tube. Do not enlarge the holes in either the mount or cross member, these must be a tight fit. It’s best to insert the first bolt before drilling the second hole. Install the 3/8”-16 X 4” grade 8 bolts thru the mount with topside washers, use the two extra washers on the thread end and tighten locknuts. Safety glasses?

Remove clamp and tape measure.

Lubricate the inside of the pivot bore with copper anti-seize provided, concentrating on the lower surface.

Place the scissor hoist upside down on a table as shown. Remove the two hex pipe plugs with hex wrench provided. Inside the hydraulic parts package, find the low pressure elbow fitting and the high pressure flare fitting. Wrap two turns of Teflon tape clockwise around threads and install. Tighten fittings to face the lower mount end of the hoist where you replaced the pivot pin. Fittings shown in photo are obsolete, upgraded fittings are both one piece steel flared elbows.

[pic]

Find the lid from the crate and place it behind the lower hoist mount on top of both frame rails as shown. Turn the hoist right side up and place on the lid as shown. Remove the same pivot pin snap ring as before. Remove pin and lubricate the lower arm bores with anti-seize. Insert the pin even with the inside edge of the lower hoist arm. You will carefully use this pin, while in the lower arm, to align the hoist with the lower mount. Once aligned, simply slide the pin thru and attach the snap ring. Check the ring to ensure it is seated all the way around the pin groove. Leave the board in place supporting the hoist.

[pic].

[pic]

6. Pump Mount and Hydraulics

Find the pump mount, spacer and fasteners as depicted in Diagram 6. The pump mount is attached to the front spring mount on the passenger side behind the cab. There are two casting or forging holes already present in this spring mount. In some cases these holes will need to be enlarged or cleaned up with a 3/8” drill bit. Check the alignment of the mounting holes before drilling. Install two bolts tight. Some 1500, 2500 & 3500 model truck kits will be provided a pump mount without bolt holes in order to custom fit to the vehicle’s casting holes. Sand or grind off the undercoat to ensure electrical grounding.

[pic][pic]

Lubricate pump bolt threads with anti-seize for future removal. Tighten to compress lock washers

[pic]

Inside the hydraulic parts package find the high pressure hose with the valve and O-ring elbow attached. Remove the elbow and the red or yellow plastic threaded plug on the pump hydraulic output port. Screw the male end of the elbow into the port tight and check that the ell faces to the rear of the truck. The direction can be adjusted by the locking nut on the male thread end. Snug the lock nut while holding the elbow in position.

[pic]

Attach the valve end of the high pressure hose to the elbow female end. Position the valve as shown below. Do not tighten the valve, you will stop flow from the cylinder back to the pump. The valve only controls the down stroke speed of the hoist for safety, up stroke is wide open. You should adjust the speed while empty to close the bed in 20 to 30 seconds. If you intend on lowering under load, tighten further to prevent damage to your vehicle.

[pic]

Route the other end of the high pressure hose under the frame, along the cross member to the underside of the hoist. Lift the hoist vertical and connect the hose to the steel fitting, tighten. Lay the hoist down and tie up the hose away from all hot exhaust components or sharp edges. Check for sufficient slack to allow the hoist to tilt to vertical. Do not tie the hose to the drive shaft ! Keep in mind the drive shaft will be closer to the hose while the truck is under load, allow for it now.

[pic]

Find the brass tee, brass nipple, low pressure hose, and two circular hose clamps. Remove the breather fill cap from the top of the pump reservoir. Wrap Teflon tape on the male threads of the tee fitting and install in the reservoir. Do not over tighten the tee, face the side opening toward the hoist. Wrap Teflon around the nipple threads and install in the side opening while holding the tee in position.

[pic]

Slip the low pressure hose over the brass nipple at pump end, these are push to lock fittings. Route the hose along the high pressure hose and tie with plastic tie wraps. Hold the hoist vertical and attach free end to the elbow on the upper port. Trim length if required before connecting, tighten hose fitting. Screw the breather cap into the top opening carefully since it is plastic and could cross thread. Do not fill reservoir at this time!

7. Electrical Connections

Find the remote control in the pump box. If you prefer this set-up, you need to locate the control in the cab and drill a hole for the connection ends to pass thru to the pump. The following instructions are intended to mount the control switch inside the center console without the remote box. If you are not qualified to make electrical connections, please contact an electrician. The battery should still be disconnected from the first step of the installation. Disassemble the remote control as shown:

[pic]

Cut off the connectors on the wires inside the box and unscrew the strain relief fitting on the box, remove the cable. We are keeping the switch, cable, boot, and label, store the remaining parts.

The other end of the cable has lugs to connect to the pump, the largest ring terminal attaches to the pump motor solenoid input power 3/8” stud. Slip this on but do not tighten the nut. The smaller ring terminal attaches to the pump solenoid control terminal. Install and tighten gently while holding the stud lock nut under the ring. If the stud turns while tightening, the internal connection could be damaged. The female slip-on terminal connects to the valve solenoid as shown in photo. Your wire colors may differ, please make a notation of changes from this instruction.

White=power, Green=control, Black=valve.

[pic]

Route the cut end of the cable along the passenger side frame under the rear of the cab. Open the passenger door (doors), unscrew the threshold holding the carpet down and lift or remove threshold. Locate a suitable place to drill a hole thru the floor of the cab just large enough to pass the control cable thru. Check backside for any wire harness, pipes, or exhaust components before drilling. Deburr any sharp edges with a file, pliers, or other tool. Pass the cut end of the cable thru the hole and route under the carpet to the front of the center console. You may need to remove the center console to gain access to the cable.

Once in location, strip back the cable to expose 2-3” of wire, strip the wire end ¼”.

[pic]

Find the fuse holder in the electrical package and strip wires back ¼”. Find the crimp butt connector and crimp it on one end of the fuse holder, crimp a female 0.250” tab connector on the other end, and load it with a 7 to 15 amp fuse. Connect the female end to the center terminal of the switch as shown.

[pic]

The fuse can also be installed at the pump solenoid, however, it would need to be accessible while the bed is down. Otherwise a blown fuse would result in removal of the pump to gain access. Another method is powering the switch from the vehicle fuse panel to provide a ‘key-on’ interlock for safety. In this case you would cut and tape up both ends of the ‘power’ wire in the cable, run separate wire to fuse. We recommend the key interlock for customers with low ceiling garages and/or children.

Find two more female 0.250” tab connectors and crimp them on the stripped cable wires for “control”, and “valve” as noted previously by color code. Crimp the butt connector from the fuse to the “power” color wire.

Connect the two female tab connectors to the other two terminals of the switch as shown.

[pic]

Locate a suitable flat location inside the console, or on the dash for the switch. You will need a ½” hole to fit the switch, check the backside before drilling. Position the switch so the “valve” color coded wire is on the top terminal as it is installed. We recommend wrapping the body of the switch and terminals with electrical tape to prevent disconnection due to vibration or strains. Peel the backing from the label and stick it on so the holes align. Insert the switch thru the hole and tighten the boot nut carefully to prevent tearing. You may omit the boot if the location is normally dry. The switch should spring return to center when actuated up and down.

[pic]

Use tape or silicone sealer to seal the hole in the floor of the cab around the wire.

Secure excess cable and re-assemble the truck interior parts.

Locate the 20 feet of #2 welding cable and attach the lug end to the pump solenoid 3/8” power terminal and tighten with same care as control terminal. Route the cut end along the passenger side frame under the cab and into the engine compartment to the battery. Keep away from hot exhaust and suspension components, tie with tie wraps provided. Find the large copper battery lug and CM-20 Crimpler Tool, insert the lug into the spring loaded tool as shown. Strip back the cable ½” and insert into the lug, hammer the top of the tool several times while holding the wire tight inside the lug.

[pic]

Pry the factory battery cable bolt out of the factory cable with a small screw driver. Find the double ended battery cable bolt w/nut and install in the factory cable boot with nut end to the outside.

[pic]

Two types shown above with factory bolt.

Do not connect the battery at this time.

8 Remounting the bed: Lift the scissor hoist and remove the support board, lower the hoist gently. Remove the snap ring from the passenger side of the upper hoist pivot pin (part 8, diagram 5). Remove the pin to prevent the center bar from hitting it as the bed is installed.

[pic]

Clear all tools and loose parts off the frame and under the truck. Raise the bed with the engine hoist and remove the sawhorses. Get assistance from two other people to help move the bed back over the truck frame. Tuck and tie the fuel filler neck out of the way. Use care not to collide the front of the bed with the rear of the cab or window. Position and gently lower the bed while checking for clearance at the front, side to side, and at the rear bumper. Do not crush the electrical plugs from the bed. The ends of the rear torsion bar pivot mounts should be outside the rear frame rails as you land the bed back on the frame. The upper arms of the scissor hoist may hit the underside of the bed since it’s hanging out of position. The rear bed mounts should land on the top of the frame. Using a screw driver or tapered punch, look under the rear driver side wheel well and align the rear pivot mount holes with the two bumper mount holes. You may need to release the main arm rope or tie wraps and adjust the position of the hinge. Insert the 1/2” bolts PN:13 with washers, put locknuts on finger tight. Repeat for passenger side as shown below (bed not shown in photo). Once all four bolts are installed, tighten all locknuts.

[pic]

Remove the forward bolt in the factory hitch. Locate both part numbers 7, Under Frame Mounts. Remove the Hex head 1/2” X 2” bolts with lock washers, nuts, two flat washers, large spacer washers, E-clip & plastic washer, set aside for later assembly: ----Photo is Passenger side----

[pic]

Place plastic spacer washer on pivot then lube with anti-sieze. This pivot is inserted into the free end of PN:6, Center Link which should be swung down between the springs and truck frame. Install E-clip in groove ensuring it snaps fully into position as shown:

[pic]

Rotate the Under Frame mount up under the frame as shown, the rear slot uses the hitch bolt hole. The Center Link must be attached prior to bolting. Photo depicts old version with bolt pivot.

[pic]

Place the large spacer between the mount and frame as shown, insert the 1/2” bolt from the top with one washer. Place second washer and locknut on forward bolt by hand. Push the under frame mounts as far to the front as possible, snug tighten hitch bolt then PN: 21-1/2” X 2” bolt. These bolts may need to be loosened later for the body alignment steps.

[pic]

[pic]

At this point the bolts holding the bed hinge system to the frame should be tight enough to prevent movement of the mounts. However, the installer should be aware the bolts may need to be loosened or removed to adjust bed to cab alignment during testing.

Let the hoist down to disconnect the rear two chains. Connect the loose chains to the forward bed tie downs. This doubles the number of chains at the front of the bed for safety during the following steps.

Begin to raise the bed using the hoist with doubled chains. The rear of the bed should rise by itself since all hinge connections are complete. Check the front of the bed to cab clearance as the bed moves up, there should be at least ¼”. Raise the bed as high as possible and place the lid from the hinge crate under the bed as a safety prop. Use more wood props or blocking in the rear if available.

[pic][pic]

[pic]

Retrieve the upper hoist pivot pin, snap ring and snap ring pliers. You will need an assistant to help raise the hoist to vertical and extend the arms. Lubricate the arm bores and insert the pivot pin half way FROM THE DRIVERS SIDE. Lift the hoist vertical and extend the arms till the pin aligns with the pivot bore per below. Insert thru the center bar and other arm bore while holding the weight to prevent misalignment. Install snap ring on passenger side of pin, ensure it is fully seated.

[pic]

Purchase three quarts of Dextron automatic transmission fluid and fill pump reservoir thru top opening of brass tee with small funnel, replace cap carefully. In hot climates we recommend 10W-30 SAE motor oil or 30W hydraulic jack oil rather than Dextron fluid. Note heat shield clearance cut above.

9. Body Alignment: Ease bed down with hoist while checking bed to cab clearance. Look along both sides of the truck body from the front fender. On the side the bed is indented, loosen rear torsion mount and under frame mount bolts. Pry the torsion bar to the rear as far as possible, then tighten bolts while holding pry pressure. It may help if another assistant pushes the bed from the opposite front corner, check the body fit again. If it’s still indented, loosen the opposite side rear torsion bar mounts and pry the torsion bar forward while pressing the bed into position. If the bed will not align with the cab to your satisfaction, you may need to enlarge the frame holes at bolt 13 in the direction required on each side. Once the body is aligned, tighten the bolts on the mounts evenly, this secures the alignment at another location. We will check this alignment again after testing hoist operation.

[pic]

10. Testing Operation: At this point all hinge bolts should be tight, the scissor hoist installed with hoses, hydraulic reservoir filled, switch installed and wired, and battery ready to connect. The fuel filler neck should be tied out of the way. The plugs for the tail lights should be disconnected and out of the way of the bed travel. Unhook the bed chains from the engine hoist only, back the hoist away.

Please wear safety glasses for the next step.

Connect the factory battery cable using the double ended stud. Touch the side of the stud (not the threads) with the pump power cable to check for shorts & arcing. Alternately use an ohm meter to check resistance to ground on the cable. Use anti-seize on the stud threads and install the cable, keep the hood open and wrench nearby to disconnect in an emergency during testing.

--------Back the vehicle out of a garage with a ceiling height under 10 feet.-------

While operating the dump system, please do not hold the switch in the on position at the top of the stroke. This causes the relief valve to open at full pressure, and re-circulate hot compressed fluid thru the pump when the reservoir is almost empty. This will considerably shorten the life of the pump. Additionally, you will fully pressurize the cylinder, which could overload the piston seals or scissor mechanism causing damage.

Switch the pump on to raise the bed, let off the switch at the top, the pump should stop and hold the bed up. Now lower the bed to bleed air out of the cylinder. Raise bed again and check for leaks on pressure hose and pump fittings. Hook the bed chains back up to the hoist before working on the pressure hose. Recheck alignment of the bed and cab after 4-5 cycles. Set your flow valve for a 20-30 second down stroke. In cold weather the valve may need to be opened further, hot weather requires a tighter setting.

Raising and lowering the bed repeatedly will cause the hydraulic fluid to expand with heat and possibly foam up in the reservoir. Fluid can then escape the reservoir by the breather cap causing a spill.

Grease the mechanism at all grease fittings with 1 or 2 shots of General Purpose EP-2 grease. Wipe off excess.

11. Fuel Filler Modifications: There are two options to modify the fuel filler neck. Always work on the fuel system outdoors so vapors don’t accumulate. Do not smoke, create heat, or sparks while working with the fuel system. Provide proper fire extinguishing equipment and/or a charged water hose nearby in case of accident.

a. Option One: Disconnect the filler hose, flush it with water and cut the steel neck short enough to fit under the bed while down. You will also need to cut the rubber hose. Use dishwashing soap on the hose to assist re-connection, tighten all hose clamps. This task is best accomplished after the bed is replaced on the truck to check for clearances. Keep in mind you will be required to raise the bed any time you need to fuel the truck. We do not recommend this option, however, many customers are pleased with this filling method.

b. Option Two: Find the 2” elbow, hose clamps, and flat bar with the stainless ‘U’ bolt attached. This flat bar is attached under the second bed mounting ear behind the cab, only the washer and bolt are above the top surface. Use a washer under the flat bar and tighten.

[pic][pic]

[pic][pic]

The rubber filler hose must be cut in half to insert the elbow as shown above. The elbow supplied is longer than required so the customer can cut and fit to clear the bed when down. We recommend using a new razor knife to cut the rubber hose about 6” from the tank. Loosen the hose clamp and remove it from the tank first. When installing the 6” section, turn it 180 degrees to face down rather than up to give the elbow some slope into the tank. Cut and fit the elbow using a hack saw well away from any gasoline vapors. Deburr the sharp edges and clean the metal shavings out of the elbow. Slip the two hose clamps over the hose ends. Use dish soap on the inside of the rubber hoses to help install the pipe. Use the ‘U’ clamp to hold the filler neck up in the wheel well. Attach grounding strap if required.

Do not lower the bed yet.

At this point the fuel filler neck task should be complete. In some trucks the fender support bar needs to be removed as shown in the photo below.

[pic]

After it’s out of the way, lower the bed while observing the filler neck for clearance.

[pic]

Take care when filling not to overflow the filler neck since fuel can back up with the near level slope.

Attach your cap lanyard to one of the screws that held the plastic shroud.

Ensure there is clearance for the tire travel when the truck is loaded not to hit the filler neck.

Raise the bed and check the length of the taillight wires to reconnect the plugs. You may need to unfasten some harness clips to gain length. Route the wires to the inside of the Torsion Tube and plug in. Check for clearance as you cycle the bed up and down. Install the tailgate and spare tire.

A tailgate hinge locking accessory is included in the kit. We recommend installing it per separate instructions to retain the tailgate during dumping operations.

12. Vibrator installation (optional accessory): The vibrator is a simple DC electric motor with offset cam type weights inside that cause 80lbs. of rotational vibration, at 4000 RPM when running.

Locate the vibrator parts and mount. Raise the bed and find a place the vibrator will fit under the front of the bed on either corner. It works best when positioned parallel to the rear axel, and turning clockwise when viewed from the driver side.

Mark the location and lower the bed to check for clearance when down. Keep well away from the hot exhaust, hydraulic pump, and fuel tank. Remove any plastic bedliners from the bed in order to drill holes thru the bed floor or sidewall. Hold the vibrator in the location selected and center punch the hole locations. Remove vibrator, wear safety glasses, and drill four 3/8” holes, check the backside for obstructions prior to drilling. Find the square vibrator mount with the rounded edges. The round edges face down toward the vibrator when installed. Insert bolts thru the vibrator, place spring washers on back side of the vibrator. Place the unit in location with bolts thru the bed. Install mount with rounded edged toward unit, start all nuts by hand, tighten the bolts with tools.

There are separate detailed installation instructions with the vibrator. Route the cable to the center rear of the bed and secure. You may need additional cable to reach the switch location, purchase 16 or 12 gauge two or three conductor portable cable (extension cord) at a hardware store. There are two switches in the parts bag, one is a toggle the other is a momentary push button. We recommend the push button for dump truck applications. Press and release for 2-5 seconds, the vibrator will continue to work while coasting to a stop. Check bolts and sheet metal regularly if you use the vibrator.

Scissor Hoist Support Cable: On some 1500 model trucks, the scissor hoist may hang down far enough to hit the top of the rear end axel. In this case please find the 4 foot cable and four clamps and install to support free end of the scissor hoist. Some frames have existing holes that can be utilized for this cable. If not, you need to drill a ¼” dia. Hole approx. 3” behind the center of the rear axel on the top frame web as shown

.[pic]

The cable should be installed slack and adjusted tighter after testing to ensure it holds the free end far enough away from the axel housing. We highly recommend rerouting any brake lines attached to the top of the axel housing. If you overload your truck, the brake lines may impact the scissor hoist.

III. Maintenance, Cleaning, and Lubrication

1. Safety Pin: The safety pin should be sprayed with WD-40 or other light lubricant then wiped dry to prevent attracting dirt. This pin is only used while working under the bed and is intended to prevent injury due to failure of the hydraulic cylinder to hold pressure. It will lock the scissor in the up position when fully inserted through the scissor hoist stop block, lower arm, and channel hinge. It can be used from either side of the scissor when in the fully extended position. It is not designed to hold the scissor while the bed is loaded! Never enter the area under the bed while loaded. Never enter the area under the bed while unloaded without first inserting the safety pin. Keep bystanders away from the truck while operating the dump system. The safety pin is not functional if you disassemble the scissor hoist, other means and blocking should be used to support the bed.

2. Hydraulic System: Use GP EP-2 grease at all grease fittings, wipe away excess. The scissor pins & bores can be lubricated with EP-2 grease every three months. The piston rod of the cylinder should be sprayed with silicone lubricant every three months. Other lubricants can attract grit that would bypass the seal. We use the copper anti-seize during installation which acts as a long term solid lubricant due to molecular bonding of the copper to steel. It creates a copper bushing under load over time. Do not use high pressure water to clean the scissor hoist, cylinder, or hydraulic pump. Simply wipe clean with a rag. Correct any hydraulic oil leaks when they are discovered. The hydraulic pump & cylinder is not repairable by the customer, contact us for replacement. Under normal use, the lifetime of these components is over five years. The hydraulic fluid should never need to be changed unless contamination is obvious.

3. Hinge Mechanism: Use GP EP-2 grease at all grease fittings, wipe away excess. Use 3 in 1 oil on all other pivots, it will penetrate to the bearing surface, wipe clean. Every six months, use a wrench to turn the pivot bolts 90 degrees clockwise. This will spread any wear on the bolts evenly while tightening the locknuts. Check for loose fasteners on all mounts. Any unusual noise during operation should be investigated and corrected as soon as possible. Stainless steel has the unique property called ‘work hardening’ where the surface of the steel will become harder after repeated use. The pivot bolts should last literally forever with proper maintenance and occasional lubrication.

4. Electrical system: Check battery cable for corrosion at both ends, clean with water and baking soda, spray with silicone lube. Check for loose connections on control cable every three months. If the switch ‘feels’ different during use, it may need replacement. If the pump won’t start, check the fuse. Possibly the solenoid may need replacement. The solenoid is a standard automotive type that can be purchased at any auto parts store. If you can’t locate a replacement, please call us to order one.

Never use paint thinners, carburetor cleaners, or other solvents to clean the components of the system. Only use car wash soap and water.

Never spray high pressure water on the pump or hoist.

While operating the dump system, do not hold the switch in the on position at the top of the stroke. This causes the relief valve to open at full pressure, and re-circulate hot compressed fluid thru the pump when the reservoir is almost empty. This will considerably shorten the life of the pump. Additionally, you will fully pressurize the cylinder, which could overload the piston seals or scissor mechanism causing damage.

Contact us for questions & parts:

Stealth Dump Trucks, Inc. (757) 890-4888

sales@

Please do not damage or break down the crate when empty!

We recycle our crates to keep costs down and protect the environment. When your crate is empty, replace the lid upside down with at least four screws. Call UPS at the number below to schedule a pre-paid UPS pick-up using the tracking number on your return label. Attach the label to the lid using clear packing tape if it’s not already in place. In some cases we will contact you via email to provide a printable label. Leave the crate where UPS can find it on the scheduled date.

U.S. Customer Service

Package Services

For Domestic Services below 150 lbs. per package:

1-800-PICK-UPS (800-742-5877)

Thank you for returning the crate.

[pic]

[pic]

READ ME FIRST!

(757) 890-4888

................
................

In order to avoid copyright disputes, this page is only a partial summary.

Google Online Preview   Download