Behind the Scenes

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Behind the Scenes

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OUR READERS

Many thanks to the travelers who used the last edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, useful advice and interesting anecdotes:

A Zoe Abrams B Carolina Barros, Annelies Bossaerts C Diana Caplinska, Emily Chiswick Patterson D Hector Del Olmo L Igor Livshits M Shaila Mahomed, Helena Marambio, Juan Miguel Mariatti, Claudio Milletti N Gragnon Nathalie, Riccardo Negri, Kris Nicolai R Elisa Renzi, Jenny Robb, Johanna Rydelius S Rafael Santos, Matan Shacham, Cynthia Smith, Paul Sorensen, Liam Spencer, Howard Spodek, Bridget Stap, Paul Steele, Torje Sunde T Yury Tulchinsky W Tim Wardle, Frans Wildenborg, Ronald Wolff, Julie Woods

AUTHOR THANKS

Regis St Louis

Many thanks to new and old friends who helped with tips and advice. In particular I'd like to thank Cristiano Nogueira, Jakki Saysell, Alberto Armend?riz, Marcelo Esteves, Marcio Zaidan, Vitor Souza, Philip de Wit, Bindu Ma thur, Thiago Mour?o, Ian Papareskos, Eduardo Cruxen, and Kevin Raub. Beijos to Cassandra, Magdalena and Genevieve for joining me on the road.

Gary Chandler

Thank you to Bettine Robers in Tef?, Fernanda S? Vieira at Mamirau?, Pedro Neto in Manaus, Karim Abu Bakr in Santar?m, Gil Serique in Alter do Ch?o, Chris Clark and Claus Pfeiffer in Novo Air?o, and Regis St. Louis and MaSovaida Morgan at LP. Thank you to my family and inlaws for help on the home front, and to Eva and Leo--kids extraordinaire. And to Liza, who I love and admire more than I can say--thank you for everything.

Gregor Clark

Muito obrigado to the countless Brazilians who generously shared their smiles, thumbsup and local knowledge of Brazil--from Maira, Alex and family in Minas to Angela and Margarida in Rio state, and others too numerous to name. Back in Vermont, big muriquistyle abra?os to Mei gan and Chloe for keeping me happy, helping

me research and embracing life on the road with me, and to Gaen, who always makes coming home the best part of the trip.

Bridget Gleeson

Thank you to the tourism board in Len??is for their ongoing assistance with maps and information about Parque Nacional Chapada Diamantina, to the posada staff who made my birthday on Morro de S?o Paulo special, and to all of the friendly Brazilian people who always along my way when I'm traveling alone in the Northeast.

Anna Kaminski

I would like to thank MaSovaida for entrusting me with this chapter, my fellow scribes Kevin, Paul and Regis for advice while on the road and everyone who's helped me along the way. In particular, Joel for his wonderful hospitality and assistance in Cuiaba, Gil and Luis for all their hard work and help in Campo Grande, Corumb? and Bonito, Bonifacio for guiding me on the Transpantaneira, Maria and Vini cius in Bonito and Douglas and Vitoria at the Cristalino Jungle Lodge.

725

Kevin Raub

Thanks to my wife, Adriana Schmidt Raub, who sure does do her best to teach me the Brazilian dance when I run into roadblocks on the road (even though I don't dance)! Maso vaida Morgan; and all my partnersincrime. On the road, Malu Sabatino, Daniella Bar bosa, Helena Costa, Rodrigo Angel, Ion David, Kely Zimath, Thiago Luiz, Marcia Gazola, Edu Passarelli, Vanessa Carvalho, Mario Saraiva, Craig Smit, Lucas Mello, Filipe Correia, Joana Pires, Ana Muller, Roberta Rodrigues, Raissa Monteiro, Shannon Sims, Sebastian Koch, Marina Prado, Ana Muller. Marcio & Paula Hernandez and Julien Leroy.

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS

Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) `Updated World Map of the K?ppenGeiger Climate Classification', Hydrology and Earth System Sciences, 11, pp1633?44.

Cover photograph: Corcovado, Rio de Janeiro, Antonino Bartuccio/4Corners

BEHIND THE SCENES

THIS BOOK

This 10th edition of Lonely Planet's Brazil guidebook was researched and written by Regis St Louis, Gary Chandler, Gregor Clark, Bridget Gleeson, Anna Kaminski and Kevin Raub. Regis, Gary, Gregor, Bridget, and Kevin also worked on the previous edition along with John Noble and Paul Smith. This guidebook was produced by the following:

Destination Editor MaSovaida Morgan

Product Editors Kate Chapman, Martine Power

Senior Cartographer Mark Griffiths

Book Designer Virginia Moreno

Assisting Editors Carolyn Bain, Judith Bamber, Carly Hall, Victoria Harrison, Elizabeth Jones, Helen Koehne, Katie O'Connell,

Charlotte Orr, Susan Paterson, Christopher Pitts

Cartographer Julie Dodkins

Cover Researcher Naomi Parker

Thanks to Anita Banh, Barbara Di Castro, Ryan Evans, Kate Mathews, Catherine Naghten, Mazzy Prinsep, Vicky Smith, Amanda Williamson

?Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 726

Index

A

Abismo de Anhumas 392 accommodations 7023, see

also individual locations favelas 87 language 717 longterm rentals 88 Acre 6528 activities 24, 257, 402 addresses 342 air travel 71112, 71314, 715 airlines 713 airports 711 Aiuruoca 197 Alagoas 48, 465, 466, 47282, 466 accommodations 465 climate 465 highlights 466, 466 transportation 467 travel seasons 465 Alc?ntara 563 Aleijadinho 185, 186 Algodoal 5867 Alter do Ch?o 18, 597601, 18 Alto Para?so de Goi?s 35960 Amado, Jorge 441 Amazonas 60540 Amazon, the 15, 48, 569658, 5701, 616, 15, 5845, 62330 accommodations 569 books 583 climate 569 highlights 5701, 5701 nature reserves 569 safety 581, 587, 597 transportation 573 travel seasons 569 Americana 241 anaconda 630 Anchieta 215 Anchieta Palace 208 Anhangaba? 226

Map Pages 000 Photo Pages 000

animals 62330, 6939, see also individual species, wildlifewatching

anteaters 625, 694, 625, 694 ants 630 aquariums 69, 382, 391, 467 Aracaju 46770 architecture 14, 3401, 14,

3401 area codes 21, 708, 709 Arma??o 298, 299300 Arraial d'Ajuda 44951 Arraial do Cabo 1523,

155, 155 art, see folk art, galleries As Mis?es 631 Atins 565, 550 ATMs 706 Avenida Paulista 2289, 2367,

23944, 2468, 2301

B

Backdoor 44564 Bahia 47, 397464, 398

beaches 397 climate 397 food 397 highlights 398, 398 transportation 399 travel seasons 397 Ba?a do Sancho 505 Ba?a dos Porcos 505, 5067 Baixo Augusta 228, 2445, 248 Balne?rio Cambori? 30810 Banespa 229 Barcelos 620 bargaining 706 Barra da Lagoa 2956 Barra da Tijuca 7783 Barra de Santo Ant?nio 481 Barra de S?o Miguel 479 Barra do Camaragibe 481 Barra do Superag?i 276 Barra Funda 248 Barra Grande 4367 Barra Velha 453 Barreirinhas 565 bathrooms 709

beachbuggies 526, 530, 544, 549

beaches 19, 22, 155, 550, 19, 1545, 5501 Alagoas 472, 478, 479, 481, 482 Amazon, the 18, 586, 589, 597, 608, 620, 640, 18 Bahia 397, 420, 431, 434, 436, 437, 441, 449, 455 B?zios 160 Cear? 5378, 544 Esp?rito Santo 209, 213, 215 Maranh?o 561 Para?ba 513, 514, 525 31 Paran? 2735 Paraty 132, 1356 Pernambuco 4967, 505, 507, 5067 Porto Seguro 445, 447 Praia do Espelho 452 Praia dos Ossos 1545, 160 Rio de Janeiro 51, 56, 60, 61, 77, 78, 589 Rio de Janeiro state 120, 124, 151, 152, 153, 1545 Rio Grande do Norte 51920, 524, 5257, 530, 31 Rio Grande do Sul 330 Salvador 407 Santa Catarina 19, 2945, 298, 299, 308, 312, 19 S?o Paulo state 254, 256, 259 Sergipe 467

beer 13, 309, 689, 13 breweries 142, 307

Bela Adormecida 621 Bel?m 57383, 5745, 582 Belo Horizonte 16375, 166 Belo Monte Dam 596 Belterra 592 Bento Gon?alves 3213 bicycling 714

Alagoas 472 Paran? 275 Rio de Janeiro 79 Rio de Janeiro state 132 Vale Europeu 307

birds 6958, 626, 6267, 693, 696, 697

birdwatching 150, 256, 372, 393, 467, 586

Biribiri 200 Blumenau 13, 3038, 304,

3067 Boa Vista 6403, 641 boat travel 713, 714, 1545,

see also riverboat travel Alagoas 472, 476 Amazon, the 576, 586,

590, 609, 646, 648 Bahia 432 Fernando de Noronha 505 Igua?u Falls 2789, 2856 Maranh?o 565 Paran? 280, 285 Rio de Janeiro 81 Rio de Janeiro state 132 Santa Catarina 301 S?o Paulo state 256, 259 BoiBumb? 615, 26 Boi?ucanga 254 Boipeba 4345 Bom Jardim 3712 Bom Jardim da Serra 311 Bombas 298 Bombinhas 298 bonde, see cable cars Bonito 17, 3916, 392, 17 books 660, 666, 689, 693 Amazon, the 583 border crossings 71213 Argentina 277, 286, 712 Bolivia 389, 643, 712 Chile 712 Colombia 712 French Guiana 712 Guyana 645, 712 Paraguay 286, 394, 712 Peru 71213 Suriname 712 Uruguay 332, 713 Venezuela 645, 713 bossa nova 91, 678 Botafogo 60, 86, 989, 1067, 116, 667 botos 628, 694, 628

727

INDEX B?D

Brasil?ia 6578 Bras?lia 14, 47, 333, 33549,

334, 3367, 344, 14, 3401 accommodations 333, 3435 activities 343 climate 333 drinking 3467 entertainment 347 food 333, 3456 highlights 334, 334 information 3478 nightlife 3467 shopping 347 sights 33543 tours 343 transportation 3489 travel seasons 333 Brennand Workshop & Institute 490 breweries 142, 307, see also beer budget 21 Bumba Meu Boi 27, 557 business hours 707 bus travel 713, 714, 716 butterflies 630, 691 B?zios 15661, 155, 157, 158

C

cable cars 75, 308, 405, 542, 59

Cabo Frio 1536 cacha?a 136 Cachoeira 4224, 4245 Cachoeira da Serra Azul 372 Cachoeira das Tocas 259 Cachoeira de Roncadeira

605 Cachoeira do Escorrega 139 Cachoeira do Rappel 605 Cachoeira Tobog? 136 cacique 626 Caet?A?u 463 caiman 630 Caldas Novas 351 Camamu 436

canyoning 359 canyons 328 Cap?o 463 capoeira 41011, 41011

courses 407, 499, 549, 411 Salvador 41819 car travel 713, 71415 caracaras 697, 696 Cara?va 449, 4535 Caravelas 4556 Carimbado 196 Carioca da Gema 58, 109, 58 Carnatal 520 Carnaval 14, 25, 349, 14, 18, 37, 90 Corumb? 389 Macei? 473 Olinda 499, 18 Ouro Preto 17980 Paraty 132 Porto Seguro 447 Recife 490, 37 Rio de Janeiro 14, 91, 110,

14, 37 Salvador 409 S?o Jo?o del Rei 187 Casa da Imagem 229 Casar?o do Matutu 197 Cascata do Caracol 329 Cascatinha 206 cash 706 Castelo do Garcia d'?vila 428 Catedral Metropolitana 3389, 14, 341 Catete 65, 68, 667 caves Amazon, the 609, 617 Gruta da Lapa Doce 460 Gruta da Pedra Furada 471 Gruta do Lago Azul 393, 17 Gruta do Lap?o 463 Gruta do Salitre 2012 Grutas das Encantadas

273 Minas Gerais 196 Monte Alegre 600 Para?ba 517

Centro 6871, 878, 99101, 1078, 116, 723

Centro Cultural Banco do Brasil 167

Centro Cultural S?o Francisco 514

cerrado 358 Cervejaria Bohemia 142 Chapada Diamantina 460 Chapada dos Guimar?es

36870 Chica da Silva 200 ChicoRei 181 Chico Taquara 196 children, travel with 434

Rio de Janeiro 85 chimarr?o 322 chocolate 209, 440 Christ the Redeemer 65,

1011, 589 Chu? 332 Chuy (Uruguay) 332 Cidade de Goi?s 3503, 352 Cidade Ecl?ctica 346 cinema 6856 C?rio de Nazar? 578, 590 city codes 709 Ciudad del Este

(Paraguay) 286 climate 257, 20, see also

individual regions climbing 40, see also

mountains Amazon, the 621 Bahia 459 Pedra do Ba? 238 Rio de Janeiro 789 Rio de Janeiro state

1368, 145 coati 625 Cobija (Bolivia) 657 coffee 145, 246 Colombia 712 Congonhas 1857, 198, 198 Congresso Nacional 339,

341, 3401 consulates 7034 Copacabana 60, 856, 968,

1056, 11316, 623, 901

language 233, 408 samba 80 credit cards 707 Cristo Redentor 65, 1011, 589 Cristo Rei do Pantanal 3878 cruises, see boat travel, riverboat travel Cuiab? 3638, 3645 cultural festivals, see also Carnaval, individual locations Alter do Ch?o 599 Cuiab? 365 Domingos Martins 216 Len??is 461 Manaus 610 Ouro Preto 180 Rio de Janeiro 83 S?o Jo?o 189 S?o Joaquim 311 Tiradentes 193 Vassouras 146 Cumbuco 538 Curitiba 26470, 266 currency 20, 285, 706 customs regulations 703 cycling, see bicycling

D

dance 41011, 41011 festivals 212, 300

dancing 10812 Delta do Parna?ba 5545 dengue 705 Diamantina 198, 2003, 201 disabilities, travelers with

70910 distilleries 136 diving 401, 506

Bahia 428, 434 Fernando de Noronha

505, 507 Mato Grosso do Sul 392 Rio de Janeiro state

1245, 132, 152, 157 Santa Catarina 296, 298

Cambar? do Sul 32830 Caminhos de Pedra 327,

3267 Campeche 299 Campo Grande 3827, 3845 Campos do Jord?o 238 Canal do Jar? 598 Canasvieiras 2945 Candombl? 4267, 4267 Canela 329 C?nion da Fortaleza 328 Canoa Quebrada 5446,

550, 5501 canoeing, see kayaking

Parque Nacional de Ubajara 542

Roteiro da Caverna Aroe Jari e Lagoa Azul 3701

Caxambu 1957 Cear? 48, 531, 53456,

5323, 535 accommodations 531 climate 531 food 531 highlights 532, 5323 travel seasons 531 Cedro 256 cell phones 20, 70910

Corcovado 65 corruption 660 Corumb? 38791, 388 Corumb?ly 38791, 388 Cosme Velho 645 Costa da Lagoa 297 Costa de Dentro 300 Costa do Sol 151 Costa Verde 12136 courses

capoeira 407, 499, 549, 411

cooking 81, 134, 4078 dance 407

dolphins 628, 694, 629 dolphinwatching

Amazon, the 597, 618, 631 Paran? 276 Pernambuco 5089 Rio Grande do Norte 527 Domingos Martins 21516 Dom Jo?o Vi 667 drinking 223, 322, 68990 drinking water 7056 driving, see car travel Dunas de Genipabu 526 DVDs 704

INDEX E?I

728

E

eagles 626, 626 Eclectic City 346 economy 661 electricity 703, 704 Elevador Lacerda 402 embassies 7034 Embu 251 emergencies 21

language 720 Encontro das ?guas 6089 Engenhoca 437 environment 699700

Belo Monte Dam 596 Goi?s 358 Itaipu Dam 287 erva mat? 322 Escadaria Selar?n 71 Esp?rito Santo 46, 162, 20817, 1645 accommodations 162 climate 162 food 162 highlights 1645, 1645 travel seasons 162 Esta??o Biol?gica de Caratinga 205 Esta??o das Docas 576 events, see festivals & events exchange rates 21

F

favela 671 accommodations 87 drinking 103 nightlife 103 tours 81

fazendas 1456 Amazon, the 590

Feira de Santana 457 feiras 100 Fernando de Noronha 12,

50313, 5089, 12, 5067 activities 50510 beaches 505 drinking & nightlife 512 food 51112 medical services 512 sights 505 sleeping 51011 tourist information 512 transportation 51213 Festa de Iemanj? 427, 427 Festa do Divino Esp?rito Santo 357

Map Pages 000 Photo Pages 000

festivals & events 24, 257, see also Carnaval art 234 beer 304 BoiBumb? 615, 26 Bumba Meu Boi 27, 557 Carnatal 520 C?rio de Nazar? 578 dance 212, 300 Festa de Iemanj? 427, 427 Festa de S?o Jo?o 468 Festa de S?o Sebasti?o 441 Festa do Divino Esp?rito Santo 357 Festival Internacional de Balonismo 331 film 83, 180, 193, 234, 352, 609 food 133, 193, 234 literary 133 Micareta 457 music 202, 216, 234, 515, 539, 609 New Year's Eve (Reveillon) 27, 83, 234, 40913 Oktoberfest 27, 304, 307 Semana Santa 25, 132, 180, 3512, 26 surfing 151, 513

film 660, 686, 692 festivals 83, 180, 193, 234, 352, 609

Finnish colonies 140 fishing 463, 633 Flamengo 61, 64, 867, 99,

107, 116, 667 Flecheiras 538 Floresta Nacional (FLONA)

do Tapaj?s 5957 Floresta Nova 504 Floresta Velha 504 Florian?polis 2914, 292 Floripa, see Florian?polis folk art 459 food 223, 68790, 704,

2423, 687, 689 cooking courses 81, 134,

4078 festivals 133, 193, 234 glossary 690 language 71820 Pantanal, the 375 pizza 2423 tropeiros 356 football 115, 6824, 11415 Arena Castel?o 541 museums 228 Rio de Janeiro 112 Ford, Henry 592, 598 Fordl?ndia 583, 592, 598 forr? 211, 212, 461, 468, 495, 503, 549

Fortaleza 53444, 5367 Fortalezinha 586 Forte de Santo Ant?nio da

Barra 4068 Foz do Igua?u 2804, 282 Foz do S?o Francisco

467, 480 fraud 707 free attractions 229 frogs 630, 630

G

Gal?s marine reserve 482 Galinhos 524 galleries, see also museums

Centro Cultural Oi Futuro 65, 68

Galeria Milan 233 GaleRio 60 Galos 524 Garapu? 431 gardens, see parks & gardens G?vea 5660, 85, 956, 1045, 545 gay travelers 705 Florian?polis 294 Rio de Janeiro 105 Salvador 417 S?o Paulo 247 German settlements 303 Gil, Gilberto 678, 91 gliding 40, 41, 149, 544, 551 Rio de Janeiro 7980 Santa Catarina 311 Gl?ria 65, 68, 723 Goi?nia 34950 Goi?s 47, 333, 34960, 334 accommodations 333 climate 333 food 333 travel seasons 333 Goitac? warriors 214 Gostoso 52930 Gramado 3235, 324 Gran Sabana 644 Gruta de S?o Thom? 196 Guajar?Mirim 64950, 650 Guarapari 21314 Guarda do Emba? 31012 Guaruj? 254 Guayaramer?n (Bolivia) 6502 Guiomard dos Santos, Jos? 652

H

hang gliding, see gliding Hawaizinho 437, 439 health 7056

Pantanal, the 378

Higien?polis 228 hiking 40, 412, see also

climbing, mountains Amazon, the 586, 593,

615, 644 Argentina 287 Bahia 4289, 463 Esp?rito Santo 211 Goi?s 3589 Igua?u Falls 279 Maranh?o 565 Mato Grosso 370, 371 Minas Gerais 192, 197,

201, 2078 Paran? 280, 285 Parque Nacional do

Itatiaia 1368 Pernambuco 50910 Rio de Janeiro 61, 789 Rio de Janeiro state 124,

132, 141, 143, 145, 149 Rio Grande do Sul 328 Santa Catarina 299, 311 S?o Paulo state 238, 256 history 24, 66273 hitchhiking 71516 hoatzin 626, 627 holidays 707 horse racing 112 horsebackriding 132, 185, 216, 328, 394, 459 hot springs 351 hotair ballooning 331 Hotel Globo 515

I

ibis 626, 627 Icara? de Amontada 5467,

550 Icaraizinho 5467, 550 Igreja de S?o Francisco de

Assis (Belo Horizonte) 168 Igreja de S?o Francisco de Assis (Ouro Preto) 178, 13 Igreja de S?o Francisco de Assis (S?o Jo?o del Rei) 187 Igreja de S?o Matias 563 Igreja Matriz de Santo Ant?nio 191 Igreja Nossa Senhora do Bonfim 403 Igreja NS do Bonfim 355, 471 Igua?u Falls 11, 27787, 281, 11, 2789 Iguape 262 Ilha Anchieta 256 Ilha Comprida 262 Ilha de Areia Vermelha 514 Ilha de Itaparica 420 Ilha de Maraj? 58791

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