TROUBLE SHOOTING THE YARDMASTER 1000



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LOCOMOTIVE JUMP PACK

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DIMENSIONS: 48”L X 38”W X 54”H WEIGHT: 1530LBS

ANDY’S ELECTRICAL SERVICE

RACINE, MN 55967

1-800-545-0339

YARDMASTER 1000 OPERATING INSTRUCTIONS

1. BEFORE STARTING ENGINE, PLACE THE 72V SELECTOR SWITCH IN OFF POSITION.

2. START ENGINE:

A. TURN AND HOLD KEY IN START POSITION. WHILE ENGINE IS TURNING OVER, PUSH AND RELEASE THE “BUTTON” ON THE LP GAS REGULATOR.

B. WHEN ENGINE STARTS, ALLOW IT TO WARM UP; THE ENGINE SPEED IS PRESET FOR MAXIMUM UNIT OUTPUT.

3. CONNECT CABLES TO THE ENGINE BEING STARTED. WHEN CABLES ARE CONNECTED TO THE VEHICLE, THE DIGITAL METER WILL SHOW THE BATTERY VOLTAGE OF THE VEHICLE BEING STARTED.

4. WHILE ENGINE IS RUNNING, MOVE THE 72V SELECTOR SWITCH TO THE ON POSITION.

A. IF POLARITY IS CORRECT, THE GREEN CABLES POWERED INDICATOR LIGHT WILL COME ON. THIS INDICATES THAT THE CABLES ARE NOW “HOT,” AND THE METER WILL SHOW THE OUTPUT VOLTAGE OF THE STARTING UNIT.

B. IF POLARITY IS INCORRECT, THE RED CABLE FAULT INDICATOR LIGHT WILL COME ON INDICATING INCORRECT POLARITY AND THE STARTING UNIT CABLES WILL NOT TURN ON. YOU MUST REVERSE THE CABLES TO CORRECT THE POLARITY.

AT THIS POINT, THE STARTING UNIT MAY BE UTILIZED AS A CHARGER FOR YOUR EQUIPMENTS BATTERY, OR AS A “JUMP PACK” TO START YOUR EQUIPMENT. THIS STARTING UNIT OFFERS A HIGH AMPERAGE, CONTROLLED VOLTAGE CHARGE TO RETURN YOUR BATTERY VOLTAGE TO ITS NOMINAL VALUE; OR TO START THE ENGINE.

6. AS SOON AS THE VEHICLE STARTS, MOVE THE 72V SELECTOR SWITCH TO THE OFF POSITION. LEAVE THE STARTING UNIT ENGINE RUNNING FOR 10-15 MINUTES IN ORDER TO RECHARGE THE STARTING UNIT BATTERIES.

A. BATTERIES WILL RECHARGE WITH SELECTOR SWITCH IN THE OFF POSITION.

THIS UNIT CAN PROVIDE 1000 AMPS TO A 72 VOLT SYSTEM AND HAS SOLID STATE "OVERVOLTAGE" PROTECTION THAT WILL ELECTRONICALLY TURN CABLES OFF IN THE EVENT OF OVER VOLTAGE. THIS PROTECTS THE COMPUTERS AND OTHER SENSITIVE EQUIPMENT.

TO KEEPTHE STARTING UNIT BATTERIES AT FULL CHARGE, PLUG IN THE INTERNAL BATTERY CHARGER WHEN NOT IN USE. THIS IS A 72V CHARGER THAT WILL CHARGE ALL OF THE BATTERIES WITHIN THE UNIT. THE CHARGER IS AMPERAGE AND VOLTAGE REGULATED, THEREFORE THE BATTERIES OF THE UNIT CANNOT BE DAMAGED OR OVERCHARGED BY LEAVING THE CHARGER CONNECTED CONTINUOUSLY.

IT IS HIGHLY RECOMMENDED THAT THIS STARTING UNIT BE KEPT IN A TEMPERATURE CONTROLLED ENVIRONMENT TO ENSURE PEAK PERFORMANCE AND TO AID IN PROPERLY MAINTAINING THE BATTERIES.

TROUBLESHOOTING THE YARDMASTER 1000

WHEN PERFORMING SERVICE WORK ON THE INTERNAL PARTS OF THE YARDMASTER 1000, BE SURE TO DISCONNECT THE BATTERIES SO AS NOT TO CAUSE DAMAGE TO THE UNIT AND/OR PERSONAL INJURY OR DEATH!

PROBLEM

ENGINE WILL NOT START

ENGINE STARTS, BUT WILL NOT STAY RUNNING

ENGINE SHUTS DOWN AND BOTH RED L.E.D.S BLINK (cable fault and over voltage)

OUTPUT CABLES ARE CONNECTED TO LOCOMOTIVE, BUT HAVE NO POWER TO THEM

DIGITAL VOLT METER

DOES NOT WORK OR DISPLAYS WRONG VOLTAGE

POSSIBLE REMEDIES

• CHECK THE VOLTAGE OF THE START BATTERY VIA THE TEST JACKS ON THE CONTROL PANEL; IT SHOULD BE AROUND 12 VOLTS.

• CHECK THE DIODE ON THE BACK OF THE IGNITION SWITCH

• IF THE ENGINE DOES NOT TURN OVER AT ALL, TRACE THE WIRING TO THE START RELAYS, CHECK THE RELAY(S) TO MAKE SURE THEY ARE WORKING, IF NOT, THEY MAY NEED TO BE REPLACED.

• MAKE SURE FUEL SOLENOID ON TOP OF THE REGULATOR HAS VOLTAGE GOING TO IT(if not diode on ignition switch may be bad)

• CHECK IF REGULATOR IS “FROSTY,” IF SO, THIS INDICATES A LIQUID PROPANE SUPPLY, LET THE REGULATOR “THAW” AND CHANGE TANK TO A VAPOR SUPPLY.

• CHECK OIL, LOW PRESSURES WILL DISABLE UNIT

• CHECK FUEL SUPPLY, NO FUEL WILL DISABLE UNIT

• CHECK THE BATTERY VOLTAGE; LOW BATTERY VOLTAGE CAN PREVENT THE ENGINE FROM STARTING AND/OR RUNNING. IF THE BATTERIES ARE LOW, PLUG THE UNIT IN WITH AN EXTENSION CHORD TO POWER THE INTERNAL BATTERY CHARGERS.

• CHECK ALTERNATOR TEST JACKS WITH (SHOULD BE APPROX. 14.5V, 27V, 27V AND 27V WITH ENGINE RUNNING) A FAULTY ALTERNATOR MAY CAUSE AN OVER-VOLTAGE AND DISABLE THE UNIT

• CHECK OIL LEVEL AND/OR CHECK OIL PRESSURE SWITCH. IF THE LOW OIL/FUEL L.E.D. STAYS ON DIM WHEN THE ENGINE IS RUNNING IT IS AN INDICATION, THE OIL PRESSURE SWITCH IS FAULTY AND NEEDS TO BE REPLACED.

• THE ENGINE MUST BE RUNNING IN ORDER TO POWER THE OUTPUT CABLES.

• CHECK THE REVERSE POLARITY L.E.D. (RED) ON THE CONTROL PANEL. IF THE CABLES ARE CONNECTED REVERSE POLARITY THE POWER TO THEM IS DISABLED.

• CHECK THE 3 SOLENOID L.E.D.’S (GREEN)ON THE CONTROL PANEL. IF THEY ARE NOT WORKING, THE INTERNAL FUSE(S) AND CORRESPONDING SOLENOID(S) NEED TO BE REPLACED.

• MAKE SURE TOGGLE SWITCH TO POWER CABLES IS FUNCTIONING PROPERLY

• CHECK INTERNAL CONNECTIONS ON OUTPUT CABLES, MAKE SURE EVERYTHING IS STILL CONNECTED AND SECURE

• CHECK THE 3 PIN PLUG ON THE BACK OF THE VOLT METER, IF THE CONNECTIONS APPEAR GOOD AND THERE ARE NO BROKEN WIRES REPLACE THE METER

THE OUTPUT CABLES HAVE POWER TO THEM WITH THE TOGGLE SWITCH OFF

THE YARDMASTER IS CONNECTED TO THE LOCOMOTIVE BUT IS NOT CHARGING THE BATTERIES

THE UNIT DOES NOT SEEM TO HAVE ANY “JUMPING” POWER, OR IS NOT AS “POWERFUL” AS IT USED TO BE

SOLENOID LIGHTS NOT ILLUMINATED

No change in alternator voltage from not running-to-running.

• THIS USUALLY MEANS THE CONTACTS IN ONE OF THE THREE OUTPUT SOLENOIDS ARE “STUCK” OR “WELDED” TOGETHER. ISOLATE EACH SOLENOID BY REMOVING THE CABLES AND COPPER STRAPS THAT CONNECT THEM TOGETHER, PLACE AN OHM METER ACROSS THE TWO LARGE POSTS ON EACH SOLENOID, THEY SHOULD READ “OPEN” – IF THE TWO POSTS SHOW CONTINUITY REPLACE THE SOLENOID.

• THE BATTERIES IN THE YARDMASTER MUST BE CHARGED/MAINTAINED FOR THE UNIT TO FUNCTION PROPERLY.

IF THE BATTERIES BECOME TOO LOW, THE ENGINE AND ALTERNATORS ARE WORKING TO CHARGE THE BATTERIES IN THE YARDMASTER AND NOT PUTTING FULL OUTPUT TO THE LOCOMOTIVE BATTERIES. THE LOCOMOTIVE BATTERY MAY ALSO NEED TO BE REPLACED

• CHECK THE TEST JACKS ON THE CONTROL PANEL. THE TOP SET OF JACKS (START BATTERY) SHOULD READ ABOUT 12 VOLTS WITH THE ENGINE OFF, AND SHOULD COME UP TO AROUND 14.5V WITH THE ENGINE RUNNING. THE OTHER THREE SETS OF JACKS (BATTERY/ALTERNATOR #1, #2, #3) SHOULD ALL READ AROUND 24 VOLTS WITH THE ENGINE OFF, AND SHOULD COME UP TO 27 VOLTS WITH THE ENGINE RUNNING.

• IF THERE IS NO RISE IN VOLTAGE AT THE TEST JACKS BETWEEN ENGINE OFF AND ENGINE RUNNING, IT IS AN INDICATION THAT AN ALTERNATOR IS NOT WORKING AND SHOULD BE REPLACED.

• WITH THE ENGINE OFF, IF THE BATTERY VOLTAGE READINGS ARE LOW; THE BATTERIES MAY HAVE TO BE CHARGED. IF THE VOLTAGE IS CONSIDERABLY LOWER THAN NORMAL THE CORRESPONDING BATTERIES MAY NEED TO BE REPLACED, THEY SHOULD BE CHARGED AND THEN LOAD TESTED TO CHECK THAT THEY ARE OKAY.

• CHECK FUSES LOCATED ON THE SOLENOID RACK

• MAKE SURE THERE IS 12 VOLTS AFTER THE FUSE TO THE SOLENOID

• CHECK THE WIRING

• REPLACE THE CIRCUIT BOARD IF NO 12 OUTPUT VOLTAGE TO THE SOLENOID

• REPLACE THE SOLENOID IF VOLTAGE IS PRESEN

• Momentarily jump the "R" terminal to the "Positive battery terminal" on the alternator itself. When the unit is running the alternator test jacks on the control panel should have approximately 27.5 volts

PROPANE ADJUSTMENT ON REGULATOR

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The fuel supply to the carburetor is preset at the factory. However, due to environmental changes and loads on the engine, the fuel supply may need to be adjusted for the engine to run properly. Loosening the nut will allow you to adjust the supply with the adjustment screw.

-Screw out supplies more fuel (rich)

-Screw in reduces the flow (lean)

Keep in mind, the engine will run differently once it is warmed up than it does at initial start up.

The way the engine runs will be affected by the load/strain put on it; thus it is best to fine tune the adjustment under load. If the engine is sputtering under load, it usually is an indication the supply is too rich and the screw will need to go in. If it sputters under no load it is probably too lean and the screw will need to come out further.

If there is any doubt, begin by screwing out (ccw); and then go back in until the engine smoothes out. This recommended because running the engine too lean (screw too far in) can cause the engine to run hot and drastically reduce the life of the engine!

In the majority of cases, the preset position of the adjustment screw will be very close to where it needs to be; only minor adjustments will need to be made – if any!

PROBLEM = ALERNATOR NOT CHARGING

With the engine not running, the battery voltage should be 12.5 volts. Once you start the engine and adjust the throttle to full rpm, the battery voltage should go up to 14.5 volts. If there is no rise in voltage at this point, the alternator has lost its residual magnetism in the rotor and will not self-excite.

SOLUTION = EXCITE THE ALTERNATOR AND SEE IF IT WILL START CHARGING

To excite the alternator you will need to have the engine running, using a screw driver; very briefly touch the positive hot post to the “R” terminal. The “R” terminal is near the hot post on the alternator and is a smaller post with no threads on the end of it. (See images below)

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If the alternator excites you will probably hear the engine drag down a bit, and notice the voltage rise on your volt meter. The alternator will typically lose its residual magnetism if the batteries are disconnected or go dead. However, if you need to keep exciting the alternator (it will not self-excite) you should repair or replace the alternator.

YardMaster 1000 Wiring Schematic

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|PARTS LIST FOR YARDMASTER 1000 |

|TO ORDER CALL 800-545-0339 OR 507-378-2101 |

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|PART # |DESCRIPTION |

|1001 |CABLE RACK W/PVC INSULATOR (SPECIFY LEFT, RIGHT, OR BOTH) |

|1002 |4/0 OUTPUT CABLE (50' BLACK, 50' RED, OR BOTH) |

|1003 |500A ELECTRODE STYLE CLAMPS (2 PER) |

|1004 |DIGITAL VOLT METER |

|1005 |HOUR METER |

|1006 |CIRCUIT BOARD |

|1007 |WIRING HARNESS FOR CIRCUIT BOARD |

|1008 |TOGGLE SWITCH (SPST) FOR 72V ON/OFF |

|1009 |IGNITION SWITCH |

|1010 |LOW OIL PRESS/LOW FUEL RED L.E.D. |

|1011 |OIL PRESS. SWITCH (1 WIRE N.C. / 2 WIRE N.O.) |

|1012 |ENGINE GUARD (MOUNTS OVER FLYWHEEL) |

|1013 |MUFFLER DEFLECTOR (MOUNTS TO MUFFLER VIA 4 SCREWS) |

|1014 |KOHLER MUFFLER |

|1015 |BELTS (2 SHORTER ARE THE SAME / ONE LONGER) |

|1016 |PROPANE REGULATOR |

|1017 |FUEL SOLENOID (MOUNTED TO REGULATOR) |

|1018 |PROPANE TANK |

|1019 |TANK BRACKETS FOR PROPANE TANK |

|1020 |24V ALTERNATORS (ALL 3 ARE THE SAME) |

|1021 |CIRCUIT BREAKERS TO PROTECT ALTERNATORS (90-100A) |

|1022 |START RELAY (SILVER WITH 4 STUDS) |

|1023 |START RELAY (BLACK 1"CUBE WITH PUSH ON TERMINALS) |

|1024 |INSULATOR TO ISOLATE GROUND |

|1025 |1 OUTPUT SOLENOID (CONNECTS BATTERIES TO CABLES) |

|1026 |3 OUTPUT SOLENOIDS MOUNTED ON RACK W/FUSES |

|1027 |FUSES FOR SOLENOIDS (5A) |

|1028 |12V BATTERY CHARGER (110V INPUT, MOUNTED INTERNALLY) |

|1029 |72V BATTERY CHARGER (110V INPUT, MOUNTED INTERNALLY) |

|1030 |START BATTERY HOLD DOWN |

|1031 |BOTTOM BATTERY HOLD DOWNS |

|1032 |TOP BATTERY HOLD DOWNS |

|1033 |OIL FILTER (KOHLER # 12 050 01-S) |

|1034 |PRE-FILTER (KOHLER # 24 083 02-S, 2.4"H x 6.81"O.D.) |

|  | OR (KOHLER # 24 083 05-S, 2.79"H x 6.81" O.D.) |

|1035 |AIR FILTER ELEMENT (KOHLER # 47 083 03-S, 2.55"H x 7" O.D.) |

|  | OR (KOHLER # 24 083 03-S, 2.91"H x 7" O.D.) |

|1036 |EXTERNAL JUMP START CONNECTOR |

|TOP BATTERIES |6 PER UNIT -GROUP SIZE 34/78 - 10.25"L x 7"W x 7.88"H |

|START BATTERY |1 PER UNIT - GROUP SIZE U1 - 7.63"L x 5.13"W x 7.13"H |

|BOTTOM BATTERIES |6 PER UNIT -GROUP SIZE 31 - 13"L x 6.75"W x 9.5"H |

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