East Midlands Open Rescue



Caring for your rabbits.

Choosing a rabbit

While baby rabbits are available from many pet shops and breeders, the best place to get a rabbit is from your local animal sanctuary, or from a specialist rabbit rescue.

Every year more than 35,000 rabbits are handed in to rescues in the UK. Most of these rabbits have spent as little as three months in their home before being abandoned. Rabbits adopted from a rescue will be neutered and fully vaccinated and will have been health checked regularly by both sanctuary staff and a vet. Adopting a rabbit saves you money (it costs £60-80 to neuter a rabbit and £20 for each vaccination) and ensures that the animal who you welcome in to your home is happy and healthy. Even if you would like to give a home to a rabbit of a certain breed or age, your local rescue will still be able to help.

At a rescue centre you have the benefit that staff know each of their animals individually and will be able to match you with the perfect new member of your family. Rescue centre staff will be able to give you accurate care advice and provide an information pack to help you learn more about your rabbits. They will also be available for any further advice and support that you might need in the future.

Remember that rescue animals need a home more than pet shops need your money.

To find a rabbit rescue in your area visit:

.uk

saveafluff.co.uk

Rescue rabbits Harry and Amelia

Housing

Choosing an enclosure

There is a huge amount of choice available when it comes to picking accommodation for your rabbits – you can buy premade cages and hutches, or you can create an enclosure of your own design. It can be difficult to decide what type of environment would be best, especially when you begin to look at measurements.

Space is hugely important for rabbit’s long-term health and happiness - and they need more of it than you may imagine! The Rabbit Welfare Fund states that hutches should be a minimum of 6ft x 2ft x 2ft with a permanently attached run of at least 6ft x 4ft x 4ft. A permanently attached run is very important, as rabbits need daily access to this additional space to exercise and to remain happy and healthy. The hutch should be tall enough to allow your rabbits to stand up unimpeded and the run should be high enough to allow them to binky. It is important to bear in mind that ramps used to provide access to a second level actually take away from the overall exercise space available.  When you take all of this in to consideration, it is easy to see that many pet shop bought cages and hutches are not adequate because they simply are just not big enough.

There are many benefits to choosing larger enclosures over smaller alternatives:

• Rabbits with large enclosures tend to be fitter due to the increased exercise they get, meaning that they lead longer and healthier lives.

• Larger enclosures can be more easily enriched, keeping your rabbits mentally active and entertained.

• Rabbit’s body clocks are different to our own, so a large enclosure enables them to play and exercise whenever they want, rather than limiting this to when you are there.

• In order for them to live happily together, two or more rabbits require plenty of space that can accommodate both play time and time apart.

• Happy, healthy rabbits that have plenty of space and enrichment available to them are far more fun to own. Content rabbits display a far wider range of behaviours and are entertaining to watch, making them a wonderful pet to share your home with.

For outdoor rabbits, the sky is the limit when choosing an enclosure. You can look at bespoke hutches built to your own design, or adapting Wendy houses or sheds to create attractive and easily accessible enclosures. Permanent access should also be provided to a safe and secure run, allowing plenty of time for play and exercise.

Indoor rabbits

Depending on the number of rabbits you have, you may be able to get a large rabbit cage or hutch of a suitable size from a pet shop, however the more/larger rabbits you have, the trickier it can be to find the right accommodation for them. You can be creative and design your own enclosure using Coroplast and Corex - connectable panels with a cut-to-size plastic base. This will allow you to create any size, shape or design of enclosure you please and are a cost effective alternative to expensive shop bought cages. Any rabbits housed indoors will need daily access to additional space for exercise and enrichment. They should have as much access to this space as is possible and at least two hours of free-roaming time a day.

[pic]

While shop bought cages may not be suitable for full-time housing, they can be used as a secure base for rabbits who then live ‘free-range’ within the family home. This is the rabbit equivalent of living with dogs or cats, who have a basket or blanket to return to when they want time to themselves. Large dog cages also make good bases for house rabbits and can be set up with a litter tray, water bottle or bowl, hay, toys and a hidey hole. Rabbits make excellent house pets and can live happily with free access to a single room or several rooms within the house.

It will be necessary to ‘bunny-proof’ any room that your rabbits will have access to. Blocking off any small spaces that they could squeeze into and keeping an eye out for any hazards they could reach, such as cables, pot plants etc. and anything else that could be a potential hazard will all help to keep them safe.

Special considerations will need to be made for indoor rabbits in homes where young children or other pets also reside.

Choosing a substrate

There is a huge range of pet bedding on the market and it can be difficult to decide which will best suit your needs. Your choice of bedding will be influenced by the need for warmth at night and in cold weather but safety, comfort, hygiene and cost are also important factors which will come into consideration. Below is a summary of the most commonly used rabbit beddings and hopefully this will help in your decision of which substrate, or combination of substrates, to choose.

Types of bedding:

Carefresh

Carefresh is made from wood pulp fibre, it is soft to the touch and very insulating. Dust free and very absorbent, it also stops odours extremely well and lasts for twice as long as substrates such as wood shavings. This is an ideal substrate and the only downside to carefresh is the cost, as purchasing enough to fill a large rabbit hutch is particularly expensive. Available from larger pet shops and online.

Cotton wool bedding

Cotton wool type bedding should not be used for any type of small animal. It is extremely easy for it to separate into strands and become tangled around their limbs.

Finacard

Finacard is cardboard that has been cut in to 5x25mm strips. It is dust extracted and very absorbent as it is cut to expose the internal corrugated layer. This is an efficient insulator however outside of the main sleeping area it should only be used in shallow layers, as deep layers of this substrate can impede movement. Available online at There is free delivery on this item.

Hay

Hay is an efficient insulator, however it is not absorbent and if used as the main bedding material, a lining substrate must be used underneath. Hay makes an excellent nesting material and can be used generously to fill sleeping areas, hidey holes and hay trays. In cold weather, hay can be used throughout for warmth. It is important to choose a good quality hay that is dust extracted. Available from all pet shops and supermarkets.

Hemp and wood chippings

These are not absorbent, they are hard and often uncomfortable for animals to walk on, they do not insulate well, they can cause splinters and if ingested can damage the digestive tract. For these reasons, the use of hemp and wood chippings is best avoided.

Megazorb

Very similar to carefresh but cheaper and available in larger quantities as it is manufactured for use with horses. Available online at

Newspaper

The use of newspaper for bedding is not recommended as walking on the print can burn the skin and as the paper is not absorbent, animals housed on newspaper can easily develop urine scald. Newspaper can be used underneath the main bedding however, as a liner to absorb urine and to provide added insulation.

Safe bedding

Safe bedding is made from small pieces of shredded tissue. It is dust free, very comfortable and a good insulator; however it is primarily designed for use with rodents, so it only comes in small bags. Because of this we only use it as nesting material for injured and post-operative rabbits.

Sawdust

Sawdust should never be used as a substrate for any type of small animal. The fine particles are very damaging to their delicate lungs and irritate eyes and the respiratory tract.

Shredded paper

Shredded paper is a great way to provide lots of bedding for free. It is dust free and a good insulator, although it is not particularly absorbent so it does need to be used in conjunction with a lining substrate. Only use cross-hatched shredded paper, rather than long strands as these can easily tangle around a rabbit’s leg. Always check for staples, paperclips etc. before using. Available from offices, businesses or home shredding.

Straw

Straw is an efficient insulator, however it is not absorbent so if used as the main bedding material, a lining substrate must be used underneath it. Straw is frequently linked to eye injuries due to its relatively large size and rigidity. It is a cheap form of bedding but there are other much superior substrates available. Available from all pet shops and many supermarkets.

Towels and fleece blankets

Fleece is not absorbent and towels will hold any moisture close to the surface, so these should only be used in areas where rabbits do not go to the toilet. In cold weather they can be used to make any hidey holes warm and cosy. Only non-frayed towels and blankets should be used, as eating threads from them is potentially harmful. Clean towels and fleece blankets make very good bedding for injured and post-operative animals.

Vet bedding

Originally designed for use in veterinary practices, vet bedding is hygienic and non- allergenic, it keeps in heat and has a unique drainage function that draws liquid down through the pile and away from the animal. If used in an area where a rabbit toilets, vet bedding should be used in conjunction with a towel liner to absorb urine underneath. It is machine washable and extremely long lasting. Available at many veterinary practices and larger pet shops where it can be bought off the roll. Large off cuts are available at a discounted price from Bronte Glen Mills, tel. 0844 335 6746. Vet bedding is ideal for ill or post-operative animals and in cold weather.

Wood litter pellets

Wood cat litter pellets are highly absorbent, dust free and easy to get hold of. They are uncomfortable to walk on however and like wood chippings, do not insulate efficiently against the cold. Wood litter pellets are recommended for use in litter trays and beneath hay in hay trays, however they should not be used as a main substrate. Clay cat litter pellets should never be used as if ingested they will cause impaction. Available from most pet shops and supermarkets.

Wood shavings

Wood shavings are reasonably absorbent and easy to get hold of, however they can irritate rabbit’s eyes and noses and some animals are allergic to them. While they are suitable for use with most rabbits, there are better substrates available. Wood shavings should not be used as bedding for ill or injured rabbits; rabbits with a history of eye, nose or respiratory infections; very young rabbits; or rabbits with skin conditions. To prevent respiratory problems, only ever use dust extracted shavings. Available from all pet shops and super markets.

Setting up an outdoor enclosure

For outdoor rabbits, hutches should be positioned in a quiet, but not isolated, part of the garden, out of direct sunlight and wind and away from dogs and cats, the presence of which can be very stressful for small animals like rabbits. A permanently attached run is essential for giving rabbits enough exercise and indoor rabbits will also benefit from having an outdoor enclosure to use in nice weather.

As rabbits are prey animals, they need lots of hidey holes to make them feel safe and secure. Cardboard boxes with a door cut out and filled with hay make fantastic hides and rabbits love demolishing them. In dry weather you can put several different sized boxes in the run for them to play with. They will love climbing on top of these, pulling them about and ripping them to pieces. Wooden arches and large cardboard tubes make good secondary hides. Even large, upturned plant pots can be used to create interesting hides. Tunnels, tubes and mini pop up tents also make great hides and rabbits will have great fun charging through them and throwing them around.

‘Rabbit-friendly’ plants can also be planted in their run for them to munch on. Dandelions, timothy grass, parsley and clover planted in patches or tubs would all be much appreciated and will give them an area to dig.

Runs should always have a sheltered, shaded area available to keep them comfortable in warm weather. If shade does not naturally occur within the run, then a tarpaulin securely attached, or a large piece of wood placed across the top will do the job nicely. In bad weather the lid of the run can be entirely covered with a tarpaulin to protect them from the rain.

It is a good idea to have at least two water bottles, one on the hutch and one in the run, so that they have easy access to water at all times.

Rabbits can also be allowed free run of secure, rabbit proofed gardens but it is important to make sure that the area is completely secure with no escape routes and that there are no hazards that could potentially cause an accident. It is also important to check for any toxic plants that he could nibble on.

Summer care

In hot weather, providing plenty of water and a cool place to lie is very important. Clean, smooth floor tiles can be used to create nice cool areas.

In the summer months it is especially important to maintain good hygiene. Any soiled bedding will need cleaning out twice a day, to keep from encouraging flies into the hutch. Outdoor rabbits often fall victim to fly strike during warmer weather and so it is essential to keep hutches as clean as possible, to check for the presence of flies regularly and to examine rabbits for signs of fly strike every day. When checking them, you need to ensure that his bottom is both dry and clean, and look around his bottom for any sign of flies eggs within the fur. If you ever find flies eggs, it is essential to get them to a vet immediately.

Overweight rabbits are particularly prone to fly strike as they are unable to groom themselves and are less likely to eat their caecal poos, causing a build up of faeces in the fur which in turn attracts flies. This is one reason why it is extremely important to keep rabbits at a healthy weight and not to feed them too many pellets or treats. Rabbits should be treated with a repellent spray such as Rearguard, which will discourage flies from landing on them. These sprays are available from your vet and from most pet shops. Always buy a good quality spray and carefully follow the recommended dosages.

Winter care

Rabbits are very sensitive to extremes of temperature, so if it gets too cold, outdoor rabbits should be moved indoors and given plenty of nesting materials. Insulated hutch covers are available and you can even line the inside of the hutch with vet bedding. Pet safe heat pads can be used to provide up to 12 hours of consistent heat and are available at most pet shops. These are a good way to generate extra heat if it is very cold outside and at night when temperatures drop further, they are a very good idea. Hot water bottles are best avoided as they do not stay warm for very long but are very hot initially and can cause burns.

In cold weather rabbits will expend more energy keeping warm, so it is important to increase their pelleted food accordingly. Insulated hides and cavy cosies can be provided to give the option of other warm places to sleep and play.

And remember, even though its cold, outdoor rabbits will still need time spending with them every day.

Diet

Prepared food

There are many different types of rabbit food available, so it can be quite a difficult decision choosing what to feed your pet. A healthy choice, recommended by vets and rabbit rescues across the country, is a pelleted food that has been specially formulated for rabbits. These are readily available from most pet shops, supermarkets and vets practices. Pelleted feeds have a higher vitamin and mineral content than a muesli feed and they provide a more balanced diet. Choosing to feed pellets prevents selective feeding, as many rabbits will only pick their favourite bits out of a muesli mix, meaning that their diet is not as nourishing as it should be. Because pellets are so high in nutrients, you should only feed around two to three tablespoons each day, making a bag last much longer and providing better value for money.

Muesli feeds are best avoided as they often contain artificial colourings and they have a tendency to be dusty. Muesli mixes are also lower in nutrients, meaning that you have to feed a very high quantity in order for your rabbit to get everything that he needs. This in turn discourages rabbits from eating hay, which is extremely important for maintaining healthy teeth.

It is very important not to feed rabbits a diet intended for guinea pigs, as rabbits and guineas have different nutritional needs.

Rabbits should be fed their pellets at a consistent time every day and it is a good idea to use them as a form of enrichment. Instead of providing pellets in a bowl, make them work for their food and encourage them to think and search for them. Fun feeding ideas include:

• Scatter feeding – scatter pellets around their enclosure and encourage them to search them out.

• Mix pellets into their hay – this will get them digging and burrowing to search for their food.

• Put a few pellets into a toilet roll tube – they will have to roll, push and gnaw on the tube to get the pellets out.

• Use a rabbit food dispenser toy which encourages them to roll and push the toy in order to get the pellets to tumble out.

Hay

Good quality meadow hay is the central component of any healthy rabbit’s diet and should make up around 80% of what rabbits eat every day. Hay should always be provided in abundance – give as much hay as they can possibly eat, and then lots more! Hay is full of nutrients and the fibre that it contains ensures a healthy digestive system.

Hay should always be available as rabbits have a fast metabolism and require constant access to food in order to keep their digestive system functioning smoothly. Hay is also important as rabbits have constantly growing teeth and the gnawing and grinding motions employed when eating hay keeps them in good condition and prevents dental problems from occurring. This is crucial as dental issues are not only very painful but they can also be difficult to treat.

It is necessary to purchase good quality hay from a pet shop and not in bulk direct from a farm. Although this is more expensive, the hay will have been heat treated and dust extracted so it will not irritate delicate skin and lungs and it will be free from mites, other bugs and debris. Rabbits love to rummage through their hay and will use it as a comfy bed, so always make sure that they always have a big, tasty pile of it! Choose hay that looks green and smells fresh. Dried, brown hay will look as unappealing to them as it does to us! Timothy hay and Readigrass are other types of hay that can be given as a healthy and tasty treat. Alfalfa hay is very high in protein and calcium and is linked to obesity and bladder stones in rabbits, so it is best avoided.

Fresh food

Rabbits should be given fresh food twice a day and the majority of this should be leafy greens. A big handful of grass with some dandelion leaves and clover makes a fantastic meal but there are many fresh things that they can eat.

Rabbits love: apple (but only in small amounts as it is very acidic), broccoli, brussell sprouts, carrot, cauliflower, cauliflower leaves, celery, chives, coriander, cucumber, green beans, kale, parsley, pear, rocket, spinach, spring greens, baby sweetcorn, thyme and freshly picked dandelions, grass and clover.

Kale, parsley and spinach are high in oxalates which inhibit the uptake of calcium, so these should only feature in a maximum of three meals a week.

Veggies to avoid – lettuce, cabbage, parsnips, frozen or wet vegetables, evergreens, carrot tops/leaves, mowed grass, and any grass, dandelions, clover etc. that has grown near a road.

Treats

There is a huge variety of commercial treats available, however many shop bought treats contain colourings and cows milk, things which rabbits are not equipped to digest and often leave them with upset stomachs. Timothy hay, meadow grass, sunflower seeds, pumpkin seeds, dried echinacea (cone flower) and dandelion are all natural treats that they will thoroughly enjoy. And always remember that rabbits shouldn't eat food meant for humans.

Toys

Providing wooden blocks will give them something to gnaw on, keeping their teeth in good condition and discouraging them from chewing on things they shouldn’t! Toys made out of willow or hay, such as woven balls will keep them occupied for hours.

Some of the best toys are ones that are available for free and rabbits will have great fun shredding cardboard boxes and tubes (toilet roll tubes etc.).

Avoid toys with small or moving parts and always choose natural materials over plastic as rabbits try chewing everything.

You can get a variety of beds, cosies, hides and tunnels designed especially with small animals in mind. These are fun toys that come in a range of designs and can be thrown in the washing machine whenever they need cleaning.

[pic] [pic] [pic]

These designs and many more are available at cavycouture.co.uk

Hay trays (cat litter trays or the base from an old hamster cage filled with hay) are hugely popular with rabbits and are a very good way to keep them entertained. These act as a comfy, cosy bed but also provide the opportunity to burrow and snuffle around, searching out the tastiest pieces of hay and taking in all of the interesting smells. You can even sprinkle their food or some treats in with the hay and watch as they work to try and find them.

Wooden arches make great hides, as do large cardboard tubes. Tunnels positioned to lead into hidey holes, such as boxes filled with hay, are very popular as it provides a safe burrow-like space.

Making your own toys.

You can make some of the best rabbit toys yourself at home. All you need are some toilet roll and kitchen roll tubes and a little imagination!

Cut kitchen roll tubes width ways into thirds. Then pierce through the centre of each of the sections of tube using a biro.

Make small cuts around the top and the bottom of each section of tube. Fold these outwards to create something that looks a bit like a cog.

Thread these together using string and hang from the top of the hutch or run.

Alternatively, you can repeat using more kitchen rolls and hang as a long banner across the top of the hutch or run.

Cut toilet roll tubes into swirls, stuff these with hay and hang from the roof.

Cut random sections out of a tube, stuff with hay and hang from the roof or leave on the floor.

Keeping pairs or groups of rabbits

Rabbits are naturally very sociable animals and should be kept in pairs or groups. Although you may find some rabbits who prefer to be on their own, most are far happier and healthier when in the company of their own kind.

A rescue will help you to assess the personality and temperament of each individual rabbit before looking at introducing two animals to each other. A neutered male and female pairing tends to work best. Most rescues will assist you with bonding rabbits, however for more information read Bonding Rabbits by Fiona Campbell available from the Rabbit Welfare Association and Amazon.

While all rabbits will fall out a little from time to time, you can keep groups of rabbits in harmony by following these simple rules:

• Space and lots of it. There needs to be enough room for each rabbit to be able to get away from the others whenever they want to. Animals living in cramped conditions are more likely to bicker simply because they have no space to themselves and are unable to move away from the group.

• Lots of exercise. They need to be physically active on a daily basis. If rabbits are shut away and not getting enough exercise all that excess energy will end up being directed through aggression.

• Provide a hide for each rabbit and at least one extra. This ensures that each rabbit has their own space and that the least dominant of the group still has some control over their environment and is able to choose where they want to hide, rest or sleep. If you have two rabbits and only one hide, someone is going to miss out and become unhappy.

• Provide one of each desirable toy for every rabbit. There should be enough of every resource for each rabbit to be able to gain simultaneous access, otherwise you will end up with squabbles over what one rabbit has and another rabbit wants.

• Do not use food bowls. These are the main source of contention amongst groups of rabbits. If you have two rabbits, then two bowls can be provided but for a group, scatter feeding is a better option as then everyone can feed at once. If you feed a group using a bowl, there is likely to be bickering among the more confident rabbits over who gets to feed first, while any shyer rabbits will only get what is left when they are done. By scatter feeding everyone gets equal access to the food.

• Hand feed veggies. Don’t just put veggies in one area of the enclosure, as again this will lead to squabbles and quieter animals missing out. Instead, hand feed each rabbit one piece. Then scatter the rest of the veg evenly around the enclosure. This way if one rabbit has their veggies taken off them, they do not have to go very far to find another piece.

• Lots of hay. Hay should be provided in a large enough quantity and enough different locations for all rabbits to gain access at the same time.

Keeping rabbits and guinea pigs together

Not so very long ago it was thought to be good practice to house rabbits and guinea pigs together. It was generally accepted that these social species would coexist happily, providing much needed company for each other without the risk of accidental pregnancies. Even up until the late 1990’s, most books published on the care of rabbits and guinea pigs recommended this as safe practice. As such there is still a wide-spread misconception regarding the well being of animals housed in this way. If you speak to your local vet or animal rescue, they will strongly advise that rabbits and guinea pigs should not be kept together under any circumstances. If you have always believed that these animals can live together this may seem a little odd, however it is not recommended for these reasons:

• Rabbits can be carriers of Bordetella, a bacteria which causes pneumonia in guinea pigs.

• Rabbits are larger and more confident animals and will dominate any food source. Guinea pigs housed with rabbits have limited access to food, as they are only left with what the rabbit does not want to eat.

• Rabbits and guinea pigs have very different dietary needs – you cannot feed them on the same diet. Rabbits require a diet higher in vitamin D, while guinea pigs need a diet higher in vitamin C.

• Rabbits are much stronger than guinea pigs and the most placid of rabbits can inflict serious and even fatal injuries on a guinea pig by kicking out at the wrong moment.

• Frustrated rabbits will frequently bully guinea pigs, leading to both physical injuries and stress.

• Guinea pigs communicate in a very different way to rabbits. They need the company of their own kind to stay happy and healthy.

Although rabbits and guinea pigs are both social species, they are far better kept in pairs or groups of their own kind than they are kept together.

[pic] [pic]

Handling.

Bringing your rabbit home

The move to a new home can be very stressful for a rabbit, so make your rabbit comfortable in his pet carrier by providing a comfortable bed of hay with some veggies for him to munch on and covering his carrier with a towel to block out light and movement. Keep noise to a minimum by not playing any music and only talking quietly.

When you get your rabbit home, quietly introduce him to his new home and let him have a chance to explore it. Leave your rabbit in his hutch/cage for 24 hours. This will allow him to get used to his new surroundings and feel more secure.

Getting to know your rabbits

Initially just sit by their enclosure and give them the opportunity to check you out. Try to avoid touching them at first and just allow them to become acquainted with your scent and presence. Staying at their level will make you appear less intimidating and by appearing to ignore them to start with (not looking directly at them and doing something else, e.g. sitting reading) they will learn to relax around you and will not see you as a threat. Once they are happy in your company, you can start to offer them your hand to sniff and then offer some treats to gradually build up their trust before you begin to stroke him. Gain their trust stroking the top of their head before starting to stroke their body and if they become nervous, stop and go back to sitting quietly.

It is important to remember that as a prey species, rabbits naturally do not like to be picked up or held, as it makes them feel vulnerable and exposed. Rabbits are a naturally timid animal and you will need to work in order to build up a relationship with them - it can take a lot of time to earn a rabbits trust. Some rabbits will come to enjoy being handled and stoked, while others never take to it and are happier if they are left to their own devices. Most rabbits will be happy being stroked while firmly on the ground but do not enjoy being lifted or handled and so this should be avoided unless necessary. It is always best to give them attention on their own terms by allowing them to come to you for fuss and always providing them with the opportunity to leave if they become uncomfortable.

Lifting - To pick up your rabbit, put your right hand over his shoulders to keep him still, then slip your left hand underneath his chest. Your thumb should be on the outside of his left leg, your first finger in between his legs and then your third, fourth and fifth fingers outside his right leg. Gently lift his front up from the floor and then put your left hand under his bum to scoop him up. Hold him with his head slightly higher than his bum and his bum slightly tucked in to help prevent him from kicking out. Rabbits have a delicate spine and so it is important to hold him firmly but gently so as to stop him from struggling when handled as kicking out at a wrong angle could damage or even break his spine.

Carrying – Method 1. Hold him facing you with all four feet against your chest. Place one hand to support his bum, holding it against your body to stop him kicking out and the other hand across his shoulders. If you put your thumb in front of his front leg it helps prevent attempted escapes over your shoulder.

Method 2. Hold him sideways with his feet resting at your hip and his head facing your right shoulder. Wrap your left arm across his body and support his chest with your hand, thumb over his shoulders, fingers underneath. Use your other hand to support his bum and firmly press his feet against you so that he can't lift them to kick out.

Transporting your rabbits

Rabbits have a naturally timid nature and transporting them even a short distance can be very scary for them, however there are several things that you can do to keep them happy on a journey:

Transport your rabbits in a suitably sized pet carrier that provides them with enough room to comfortably move around and stretch their legs.

Line the base of the pet carrier with a clean old towel and then cover this with a thick layer of fresh hay. The towel will stop them from slipping on the smooth base of the carrier and will catch any accidents, keeping them clean and dry. The hay will keep them warm and comfortable, as well as giving them something tasty to eat on their trip and helping to insulate them from any scary noises.

Cover the pet carrier with an old clean towel. This will keep them warm in winter and keep them out of the sun in the summer months. The dark inside of the carrier will help them to feel safe and secure as the towel will block out bright lights and sudden movements that may startle them. Covering with a towel will also help to muffle the sounds of traffic and people voices.

Keep noise to a minimum. Don’t play loud music and talk only in hushed tones as unnecessary noise combined with the sound and movement of your car will add to the stress that they experience.

Health

Health checks.

To ensure that your rabbits stay in good health it is important to perform a quick visual health check every day, so that you can spot any signs of ill health early on. When performing a visual health check, always look for the following:

Coat – should be clean, smooth and glossy. They should be keeping themselves well groomed and be keeping the fur around his bottom and face particularly clean.

Eyes – should be bright and clear, with no discharge around them.

Nose – should be clean with no discharge.

Ears – should be clean and free from wax, mites and dead hair and skin. They should be grooming his ears regularly but check for signs of scratching which would indicate irritation.

Front paws – should be clean and the fur should not be damp, matted or discoloured, which can indicate a problem with the teeth or the nose.

Teeth – should be straight, meet evenly in the middle and not be too long.

Claws – should be clean and free from chips, cracks or any other damage and should not be too long.

Bottom – They should be keeping the area around their bottoms clean. If they are not grooming themselves properly it is easy for faeces to build up, causing painful mats in the fur, burning their delicate skin and attracting flies.

Behaviour – Rabbits are prey animals and one of their main defence mechanisms is to hide any visual signs of illness to ensure that they do not attract predators. When a rabbit begins to look unwell, an illness is often quite progressed so it is important to spot any changes in your rabbit’s behaviour as early as possible. If they go off of their food, are hiding or sleeping more than usual, or if they generally seem out of sorts, it is very important to get them to a vet specialising in rabbits as soon as possible.

Be sure to take your rabbits to the vets straight away if you find anything of concern when doing your daily health check.

Vaccinations.

Rabbits have two annual vaccinations – myxomatosis and viral haemorrhagic disease (VHD).

Myxomatosis - It is spread by direct contact and by insects. Fluids from an infected rabbit such as discharge from the eyes, nose or lesions on the skin contain the virus and can infect another rabbits through scratches, abrasions or contact with mucus membranes.

Insects including mosquitoes, ticks, mites, lice and fleas can all carry the disease. This means that even if a rabbit doesn't come into contact with other rabbits it is still important to vaccinate. Insect carriers mean the disease can be transmitted over distances and even indoor rabbits are at risk.

The first symptoms are generally discharge from the eyes and swelling around the head and ears. Within a few days the eyes maybe swollen shut. The swelling can make eating, drinking and breathing difficult. Lumps or nodules may also develop. Secondary infections such as pastrella (snuffles) are common. Death can occur within a few days to several weeks. Those that recover may take weeks or even months to do so fully.

As insects are the main way myxomatosis spreads, controlling them is an important way to minimise the risk of infection by keeping Bens environment clean.

Myxomatosis vaccines boosters are required every six months.

VHD - is a more recent disease that Myxomatosis, it was first reported in the UK in only 1992. It is spread through direct contact between rabbits and by contaminated objects such as bedding, hutches and clothing. This means both indoor and outdoor rabbits are at risk.

Symptoms can include high fever, lethargy, breathing difficulties, loss of appetite and bleeding from the nose. In some cases (approx. 1 in 10) there are no visible symptoms. The rapidness of the disease means that rabbits may die within 24 hours of noticeable symptoms.

Vaccination is very successful and it can be done from 12-14 weeks of age. The vaccination is also safe for pregnant rabbits. A booster needs to be given every 12 months to ensure continued protection.

There must be at least a two week interval between the Myxomatosis and VHD vaccinations.

The risk of VHD and myxomatosis can be reduced by avoiding feeding fresh greens that have grown in areas where there are wild rabbits and by regularly disinfecting food bowls and water bottles.

Neutering

It is very important that both male and female rabbits are neutered. This enables them to live a much happier life bonded with another rabbit without the risk of pregnancy, which risks the life of the mother rabbit, or fighting. Even female-female and male-male pairs of siblings will fight if they are not neutered and these fights can be very aggressive and cause extreme injuries. Neutering is also important in order to prevent future health problems, as more than 60% of unneutered female rabbits over the age of 6 years old will develop uterine and/or ovarian cancer. A good rescue will neuter their rabbits before they are rehomed.

Worming and fleaing

Rabbits can be fleaed using spot-on treatments bought from the vets or a pet shop. As long as you regularly check your rabbit’s fur you will not need to flea them unless they have a problem or you think that they are at a high risk, for example, if there is myxomatosis in the area or other animals within the home have fleas.

Teeth

Rabbit’s teeth grow continuously and the right diet is essential for keeping them in good condition. Providing lots of hay, leafy greens and wooden toys to gnaw on will wear their teeth down and keep them from becoming over grown. If rabbit’s teeth grow too long, they begin to dig into their gums, causing very painful injuries and making feeding difficult. This is a condition called malocclusion. The first signs of dental problems are typically: runny eyes; damp, discoloured fur on the inside of the front paws; reluctance to eat hay or hard foods; and reluctance to drink from a bottle. Tooth spurs are also quite common, so it is important for rabbits to have a dental check up every six months.

Bathing rabbits

With animals such as dogs, conditions like fleas, mites and skin complaints are typically treated using medicated shampoo. While rabbits can also develop these conditions, they should not be bathed unless under the specific direction of a vet. There are a number of reasons why they should not be bathed:

• Baths are extremely stressful for small animals and the trauma of this experience alone can be enough to induce heart palpitations and shock.

• Baths can remove the natural waterproofing from a rabbits coat, which is a significant problem in outdoor rabbits.

• It is also very difficult to get them dry and the use of a hair dryer is usually necessary, which in itself is very stressful for a small animal and can easily burn their delicate skin.

• When water gets past the outer guard hairs of a rabbits coat, then the structure of the coat tends to trap moisture next to the skin, often leading to hypothermia.

Baths are extremely stressful for rabbits and there are a wide range of other treatments available that make this process entirely unnecessary. Rabbits usually do a very good job of keeping themselves clean but if they do get dirty, you can spot clean them using a damp sponge. Fleas and mites can be treated using a topical solution and skin conditions can be treated with dietary changes, alternative therapies and veterinary prescribed medications.

Gastric stasis

Rabbits have a continuous digestive system and a fast metabolism, meaning that they require constant access to food. Even a short period of without food can cause severe digestive problems, the most common of which is gastric stasis. Stasis is a gut condition occurring when gastric motility is reduced. It is most commonly triggered by stress, illness, or the absence of food.

Gastric stasis is an extremely dangerous condition in rabbits and unless correct medical care is provided it is typically fatal within 24 hours. It is for this reason that it is very important to monitor your rabbit’s food intake on a daily basis. If they skip a meal, ignore their favourite veggies or begin to turn their nose up at treats, it is essential to get them to the vets straight away.

Insurance

Taking out an insurance policy for your rabbits is definitely something to seriously consider. There are several companies in the UK that insure rabbits, including – Pet Plan, Help U Cover and Pets at Home. A typical policy will cost between £8-12 a month depending on your rabbits age and health and will pay up to £2,000 per treatment, per year. While £120 a year per rabbit may initially sound a lot, it is worth considering the actual costs of veterinary treatment in comparison. My rabbit Barnaby suffered from repetitive gastric stasis and I was able to claim back around £2,500 for his treatment. Fortunately Barnaby did not require surgery, but if he had you can imagine how the costs would have spiralled further.

With the cost of veterinary care going up, it is worth investing in a sound policy. Visit petplan.co.uk and for more information.

Poo

A rabbit excretes waste products in the form of solid, round, brown pellets, which you will find on the floor of their enclosure. Rabbits also produce a second type of poo, which are known as caecotrophs. This is a softer mass of poo, it has a ‘wet’ appearance and it looks similar in shape to a bunch of grapes. Caecotrophs have a high protein and vitamin content and contain a significant amount of good bacteria, which are highly beneficial for a rabbit’s digestive function. You will not see these very often, as they should eat them shortly after they are passed. If you do begin to find these within their enclosure, it is possible that they are being overfed and so the amount of pelleted food that they receive should be reduced and the amount of hay increased.

Suggested websites:







All written content is intellectual property of East Midlands Open Rescue. Ref.: EMOR:RC:03.12

................
................

In order to avoid copyright disputes, this page is only a partial summary.

Google Online Preview   Download