The DogSmith



The DogSmith Training CenterThe DogSmith Puppy Training Program4/9/2014Niki J TudgeTable of Contents TOC \o "1-3" \h \z \u Puppy Class Curriculum PAGEREF _Toc384827331 \h 4Puppy Class Curriculum & Lesson Plan PAGEREF _Toc384827332 \h 5Key Important Notes for conducting a Puppy Class PAGEREF _Toc384827333 \h 7“Puppy Pack” Training Program Tool Kit PAGEREF _Toc384827334 \h 9The DogSmith Puppy Pack Program – Creating Lifelong Clients PAGEREF _Toc384827335 \h 12DogSmith Puppy Pack Programs & Recommended Pricing PAGEREF _Toc384827336 \h 131.Board & Train 14 day Package PAGEREF _Toc384827337 \h 132.Latch Key 14 day Training Program PAGEREF _Toc384827338 \h 133.In-home Private 14 day training package PAGEREF _Toc384827339 \h 134.Small Paw Etiquette PAGEREF _Toc384827340 \h 13The DogSmith Website Verbiage PAGEREF _Toc384827341 \h 14How Do You Make a Puppy Part of Your Family? PAGEREF _Toc384827342 \h 14The DogSmith Puppy Pack Programs – Helping Dogs Become Family! PAGEREF _Toc384827343 \h 14DogSmith Puppy Pack Programs PAGEREF _Toc384827344 \h 155.Puppy Pack Board & Train 14 day Package. PAGEREF _Toc384827345 \h 156.Puppy Pack Latch-Key 14 day Training Program PAGEREF _Toc384827346 \h 157.Puppy Pack In-home Private 14 day training package PAGEREF _Toc384827347 \h 158.The DogSmith Small Paw Etiquette Group Class. PAGEREF _Toc384827348 \h 15The “Puppy Pack” Training Program Goals for Puppy Pack Options 1, 2&3 as above PAGEREF _Toc384827349 \h 16Skill Goals PAGEREF _Toc384827350 \h 16Tools Needed PAGEREF _Toc384827351 \h 16The Actual 14 Day Training Plan PAGEREF _Toc384827352 \h 18The DogSmith Puppy Socialization Checklist. PAGEREF _Toc384827353 \h 20Introducing the Collar and Leash PAGEREF _Toc384827354 \h 23Puppy Jumping PAGEREF _Toc384827355 \h 24How to Teach a Puppy a Soft Mouth - Training Overview PAGEREF _Toc384827356 \h 25Don’t Let Them Bite the Hand That Feeds Them PAGEREF _Toc384827357 \h 25Bite inhibition Training PAGEREF _Toc384827358 \h 26How to Prevent Puppy Biting: PAGEREF _Toc384827359 \h 27Teaching Puppy ‘leave’ and ‘take it’ PAGEREF _Toc384827360 \h 28Creating a Motivating Toy for the Puppy PAGEREF _Toc384827361 \h 29Shaping a Toy Play Behavior PAGEREF _Toc384827362 \h 30Commence Training PAGEREF _Toc384827363 \h 33Shaping Procedure PAGEREF _Toc384827364 \h 35Introduce a verbal cue PAGEREF _Toc384827365 \h 36The Ten Rules to Housetraining a Puppy In Ten Days PAGEREF _Toc384827366 \h 39Managing the Environment PAGEREF _Toc384827367 \h 40Training the Behavior PAGEREF _Toc384827368 \h 41Developing the Relationship PAGEREF _Toc384827369 \h 42The DogSmith Recommended Housetraining Plan PAGEREF _Toc384827370 \h 44The DogSmith Puppy Skill Sheet PAGEREF _Toc384827371 \h 48The DogSmith Puppy Skill Criteria PAGEREF _Toc384827372 \h 49The DogSmith Puppy Training Plan Record For Options 1,2&3 PAGEREF _Toc384827373 \h 50The DogSmith Small Paw Etiquette Class PAGEREF _Toc384827374 \h 66AKC S.T.A.R. Puppy? Program! PAGEREF _Toc384827375 \h 66Test Items and Pledge PAGEREF _Toc384827376 \h 66AKC CGCsm Responsible Dog Owner’s Pledge PAGEREF _Toc384827377 \h 6620 STEPS to Success: The AKC S.T.A.R. Puppy? Test PAGEREF _Toc384827378 \h 67OWNER BEHAVIORS: PAGEREF _Toc384827379 \h 67PUPPY BEHAVIORS PAGEREF _Toc384827380 \h 67PRE-CANINE GOOD CITIZEN? TEST BEHAVIORS PAGEREF _Toc384827381 \h 67 Puppy Class Curriculum 75% off leash play managed by owners, every 3 or 4 minutes puppies are called back or collected nicely and given an obedience drill. Puppy class must be held in a fenced in safe, secure areaKey Skills to Cover with Puppy OwnersCrate TrainingName recognitionHouse BreakingChewing and NippingLeash Manners – leash introduction to head off leash aggression problems in later monthsSits and DownsCome Meeting Strangers Incorporating training into everyday lifePlay sessions and dress up – have a puppy pack that includes large glasses, hats, a beard and other strange objects so the class can be exposed to them positively. Week six is graduation week so all skills are reviewed and tested prior to giving out the Puppy Class Graduation Certificates Encourage owners to proceed onto the next class to formalize the obedience trainingPuppy Class Curriculum & Lesson Plan Six Week Puppy Class CurriculumWeekBehavior 123456Course Introduction, Hand out puppy socialization program, Crate Training handout and house training to those who need it111111Play session &/or dress upPass the puppy – have each person handle each puppy44422Watch &Sit2343Down – incorporate doggie push ups234Recall – puppy recall, discuss puppy games at home, hide n seek325Stand – for examination346Walk Nicely – introduce the role of the leash257Leave or take food nicely (bite inhibition focus)38Questions555569Week six is graduation week so all skills are reviewed and tested prior to giving out the Puppy Class Graduation Certificates.Conducting a Puppy Training classBelow is a handout to be given to each Puppy Owner; this emphasizes the importance of puppy socialization. The key goals of a puppy class are to Teach Owners Crate TrainingHouse TrainingImportance of Spay and Neutering their dogHow to teach Basic Obedience SkillsPositive reinforcementTeach PuppiesSocialization skillsBite InhibitionOff leash controlHow to learn and that learning is funConfidenceKey Important Notes for conducting a Puppy ClassOnly puppies less than 6 month of age can attendLure reward training Puppies should spend 85% of the lesson off leash learning how to play, how to control their jaws, how to communicate with other dogsOwners call their puppies back to them every few minutes to teach sit, down, come etcPuppies are told “go play” when behavior is exhibited using Train – Test- Train sequenceBully Puppies are followed around and given feedback by the ownerOwners don’t need to understand learning theory or jargon. They want quick results; they want dogs that if in trouble in later life such as stress or a fight will not cause major damage as they have a high bite threshold and a strong bite inhibition.Families are encouraged to attend so children can use the training to gain control of the puppyShy puppies are not dragged out to play but are reinforced for any improvement, sometimes it is good to have the shy puppy arrive early to class with one other dog so they can get to know each other slowly, introduce other dogs slowlyPrepare a kit with large plastic glasses, three different hats, a fun beard, a helmet, a walking stick and several other strange objects. Have people wear them for fun when you play pass the puppy so puppies get used to seeing different face profiles, shapes, noises and sights.The DogSmith Training Center “Puppy Pack” Training Program Tool KitFor Use With Board & Train, Latch Key Training, Private Puppy Solutions Package & Small Paw EtiquetteTable of Contents TOC \o "1-3" \h \z \u The DogSmith Puppy Pack Program – Creating Lifelong Clients PAGEREF _Toc266114025 \h 24DogSmith Puppy Pack Programs & Recommended Pricing PAGEREF _Toc266114026 \h 251.Board & Train 14 day Package PAGEREF _Toc266114027 \h 252.Latch Key 14 day Training Program PAGEREF _Toc266114028 \h 253.In-home Private 14 day training package PAGEREF _Toc266114029 \h 254.Small Paw Etiquette PAGEREF _Toc266114030 \h 25The “Puppy Pack” Training Program Goals for Puppy Pack Options 1, 2&3 as above PAGEREF _Toc266114031 \h 26Skill Goals PAGEREF _Toc266114032 \h 28Tools Needed PAGEREF _Toc266114033 \h 28The Actual 14 Day Training Plan PAGEREF _Toc266114034 \h 29The DogSmith Puppy Socialization Checklist. PAGEREF _Toc266114035 \h 31Introducing the Collar and Leash PAGEREF _Toc266114036 \h 34Puppy Jumping PAGEREF _Toc266114037 \h 35How to Teach a Puppy a Soft Mouth - Training Overview PAGEREF _Toc266114038 \h 36Don’t Let Them Bite the Hand That Feeds Them PAGEREF _Toc266114039 \h 36Bite inhibition Training PAGEREF _Toc266114040 \h 37How to Prevent Puppy Biting: PAGEREF _Toc266114041 \h 38Teaching Puppy ‘leave’ and ‘take it’ PAGEREF _Toc266114042 \h 39Creating a Motivating Toy for the Puppy PAGEREF _Toc266114043 \h 39Shaping a Toy Play Behavior PAGEREF _Toc266114044 \h 41Crate Training a Puppy PAGEREF _Toc266114045 \h 42Commence Training PAGEREF _Toc266114046 \h 44Shaping Procedure PAGEREF _Toc266114047 \h 46Introduce a verbal cue PAGEREF _Toc266114048 \h 47The Ten Rules to Housetraining a Puppy In Ten Days PAGEREF _Toc266114049 \h 50Managing the Environment PAGEREF _Toc266114050 \h 50Training the Behavior PAGEREF _Toc266114051 \h 52Developing the Relationship PAGEREF _Toc266114052 \h 52The DogSmith Recommended Housetraining Plan PAGEREF _Toc266114053 \h 54The DogSmith Puppy Skill Sheet PAGEREF _Toc266114054 \h 58The DogSmith Puppy Skill Criteria PAGEREF _Toc266114055 \h 59The DogSmith Puppy Training Plan Record For Options 1,2&3 PAGEREF _Toc266114056 \h 60The DogSmith Small Paw Etiquette Class PAGEREF _Toc266114057 \h 75AKC S.T.A.R. Puppy? Program! PAGEREF _Toc266114058 \h 75Test Items and Pledge PAGEREF _Toc266114059 \h 75AKC CGCsm Responsible Dog Owner’s Pledge PAGEREF _Toc266114060 \h 7520 STEPS to Success: The AKC S.T.A.R. Puppy? Test PAGEREF _Toc266114061 \h 76OWNER BEHAVIORS: PAGEREF _Toc266114062 \h 76PUPPY BEHAVIORS PAGEREF _Toc266114063 \h 76PRE-CANINE GOOD CITIZEN? TEST BEHAVIORS PAGEREF _Toc266114064 \h 76The DogSmith Puppy Pack Program – Creating Lifelong ClientsThe DogSmith Puppy Pack Program has several options including the Small Paws Etiquette Group Class.Each person that enrolls a puppy, less than 6 months of age, into one of the DogSmith Puppy Pack Program options receive:15% discount on a Pet Dog Solutions class and complimentary Canine Good Citizen Testing at a later date. 10% discount on in-home pet care services for the life of the puppy DogSmith Graduation Package Each training client should receive a graduation certificate. Each training client should receive a PAL tag for their dog.All participants in a DogSmith training program receive the DogSmith Puppy graduation certificate. If the client wishes to progress to the next course then they must have each skill signed off by The DogSmith as competently achieved. Enrollment into one of the other three package options also includes: A 1 hour follow up training session with the owner and dog two months after the puppy training program finishes.The goal is to secure the puppy and its family as lifelong clients. DogSmith Puppy Pack Programs & Recommended PricingBoard & Train 14 day Package cost $910.00Daily Rate $ 65.00 Package Cost $ 910.00 Latch Key 14 day Training Program, 3 visits to the home each day. 1 x lunch break, 1 x dinner break, 1 x training session. Package cost is $1246.00Lunch Break $ 17.00 Dinner Break $ 17.00 Training $ 55.00 Daily Rate $ 89.00 Package cost $ 1,246.00 In-home Private 14 day training package. One visit per day to the client’s home to work with a family member. Supervision and advice of the housetraining plan and other skills is also given. Daily Rate $ 50.00 Package Cost $ 700.00 Small Paw Etiquette The Small Paw Etiquette Program utilizes the skills listed on the DogSmith puppy skill card and the AKC Puppy Star AKC Program. This puppy class covers housetraining, crate training, bite inhibition, responsible ownership, leash introduction and simple cues like Sit!, Down!, and No Jump!.The DogSmith Website Verbiage How Do You Make a Puppy Part of Your Family?Give us 14 days and we’ll show you how – guaranteed!The DogSmith Puppy Pack Programs – Helping Dogs Become Family!Here at the DogSmith we recognize that getting a puppy can be exciting and frustrating. Puppies are delightful, cute, funny and highly entertaining. Unfortunately they don’t come with an owner’s manual. We are changing all of that. The DogSmith has developed Puppy Programs that provide you with everything you need to take you from “cute and cuddly” through the ‘terrible twos” right to “adorable family dog.” The Puppy Pack Programs are designed for puppies from 7 weeks to 6 months of age and establish the foundation for the puppy’s entire life.All of the DogSmith Puppy Pack Programs include:15% discount on a DogSmith Pet Dog Solutions class and complimentary Canine Good Citizen Testing at a later date when the puppy is old enough.10% discount on all The DogSmith In-home pet care services for the life of the puppy. At The DogSmith Puppy Pack Graduation Date each puppy receives: A DogSmith Puppy Pack Graduation Certificate. A DogSmith Pet at Large identification Tag (PAL tag)Let’s start off on the right paw!DogSmith Puppy Pack ProgramsPuppy Pack Board & Train 14 day Package. The DogSmith Puppy Pack Board and Train option is a 14 day training program that takes place in the home of a certified DogSmith Dog Trainer. The DogSmith takes the puppy through a scheduled 14 day program that begins with crate training & housetraining. Each day new skills are introduced to the puppy. See the DogSmith Puppy Skill card for a full list of the skills covered and the training goal for each skill. You can also review The DogSmith puppy socialization check list. Puppy Pack Latch-Key 14 day Training Program. The DogSmith Puppy Pack Latch-Key training program takes place in your home. The DogSmith visits your home 3 times each day. This package helps you, under the supervision of a DogSmith, ensure your puppy’s housetraining schedule is maintained with 2 visits to the home each day to exercise and ‘let out’ your puppy. The third visit each day is a training visit. The DogSmith takes the puppy through a scheduled 14 day program that begins with crate training & housetraining with new skills introduced to the puppy each day. See the DogSmith Puppy Skill card for a full list of the skills covered and the training goal for each skill. You can also review The DogSmith puppy socialization check list. Puppy Pack In-home Private 14 day training package. The DogSmith Private In-Home 14 day training package guides you through teaching your puppy all the necessary skills. The DogSmith makes a daily visit to your home to work with your dog and a family member. The DogSmith takes you and your puppy through a scheduled 14 day program that begins with crate training & housetraining. Under the guidance of your DogSmith Dog Trainer a new skill is introduced to your puppy each day. See the DogSmith Puppy Skill card for a full list of the skills covered and the training goal for each skill. You can also review The DogSmith puppy socialization check list. The DogSmith Small Paw Etiquette Group Class. The Small Paw Etiquette Program is based on the skills listed on the DogSmith Puppy Skill Card and the AKC Puppy Star? AKC Program. This puppy class covers housetraining, crate training, bite inhibition, responsible ownership, leash introduction and simple cues like ‘Sit,’ ‘Down,’ and ‘No Jump!’ See the DogSmith Puppy Skill card for a full list of the skills covered and the training goal for each skill. You can also review The DogSmith puppy socialization check list. The “Puppy Pack” Training Program Goals for Puppy Pack Options 1, 2&3 as aboveSkill Goals HousetrainingCrate trainingBite inhibitionSit, Down, Stand, Come, Walk nicely, let’s go, leave it, maintain behavior.Social Skills – people and dogs386715137160Tools NeededDogSmith Housetraining planDogSmith Puppy Skill CardDogSmith Puppy Socialization BrochureA 6 foot nylon leashA 20 food nylon leashA nylon collarA small wire crateA selection of treatsA ball, a Kong and a squeaky toyThe DogSmith Puppy Training Plan RecordThe AKC Puppy Star Assessment PackThe Actual 14 Day Training PlanDaySkill To IntroduceComments1Introduce the crate and begin training Begin the housetraining programThe crate training and housetraining program go hand in hand2Begin name recognition training inside only with no distractionsIntroduce the ‘sit’ and ‘down’ using the lure –reward methodWork on a soft mouth during all training and play interactionsDo fun doggy sit-up’s3Begin daily socialization with the puppy working through the puppy socialization guide‘Name’ recognition exercises outside on a leash in a low distraction areaStart the puppy socialization in low density, low noise environment4Introduce the ‘stand’ using the lure-reward method Introduce the ‘stand on a leash’ exercise, no movement just reinforcing for no tension on the leashIdentify and or condition 3 secondary reinforcers (ball, tug toy, Frisbee)Remove the food lure from ‘sit’, ‘down’ and ‘stand’ and use continuous reinforcement for correct responsesIncorporate the ‘okay’ release cue into the behavior before you begin with distance and durationWork on behavior sets of sit, down, stand & stand, down, sit & stand, sit, down.If necessary desensitize the leash.Incorporate the three cue’s into all play and management activities5Introduce the ‘let’s go’ Introduce the ‘leave it’ behavior Begin part two of the recall training, on a leash, game play onlyCommence adding distance and duration to the ‘sit’ & ‘down’ behaviorsUse the lets go to commence number 15, motion on a leashStart in an area with no distractions. Use games to send the puppy into the crate and then recall them out6Work on 1,2 & 3 steps of movement on a leash, progressing from a solid stand on a leashPlay leash games to encourage the puppy to find the heel position7Put sit, down, stand onto a random schedule of reinforcement.Keep name recognition and games for recall on continuous reinforcementContinue each day with the puppy socialization program8Sit, down, stand should now be under cue control verbal & hand signal, behavior. They should be at the correct distance and duration (ref puppy skill card)Work with a toy for reinforcement & treats9Introduce the 20 foot leash into the puppy recall, use the name to get attention and then add the cue ‘come’ as the puppy is committed to getting to youContinue to proof – generalize the ‘sit, ‘down’, ‘stand’ behaviorsWork on ‘leave it’ using a high value object on the floor with the puppy on a leash moving past itUse jackpots for this exercise. Use the Premark principle and work with a second person offering low level distractions while the puppy is comingUse jackpots for successful leave its10Work in new areas on the ‘come’ behavior Take the leash skills around town.Practice sit/maintain and meet and greetsStart in a low distraction area and then add distractions (stationary & moving)Reinforce as necessary dependant on the individual puppy11Work on leash skills, introduce leash games, directional changes, speed changesMake this fun with lots of reinforcement12Each day work on all skills in short 10 minute segments making it fun and effective. Mix up reinforcements, food, toys, affection, use play sessions as reinforcement13Continue working on all skill in behavior sets and through management of the puppies environment.Proof and test ‘sit’, ‘stand’,’ down’,’ name’ recognition and ‘recall’ to ensure they meet the skill criteria of the puppy skill card in different environmentsTake 20 or 30 second video of each skill being performed14Prepare to hand over the puppy, the skill card, training log and socialization brochure to the ownerDrawer up a management plan and ongoing recommendations for the ownerThe DogSmith Puppy Socialization Checklist.You will need to socialize the puppy with as many of these situations as possible.As each item has been experienced tick it off on the puppy socialization brochureIntroducing the Collar and LeashAdvice to give to your clients prior to the puppy enrolling in a DogSmith Puppy ProgramThe first collar placed on a puppy needs to be very slim and very light. This collar will probably only be used for a couple of weeks so advise your client to buy the cheapest one they can find. Have the owner place it on the puppy when they are playing with the puppy or interacting with the puppy. The collar must be taken off whenever the puppy is put in the crate or not under supervision.After five days, attach a long, lightweight leash to the puppy. This can be a very slim cat leash or a long lightweight puppy leash. Let the puppy drag the line around. Do not use the leash for any other purpose. We are desensitizing the puppy to the leash. After a few days replace the slim, long, light weight puppy leash with a shorter heavier leash. The second leash is more like a tab leash and should not interfere with the puppy’s movements but will weigh the same as a normal leash.After 5 days it is now the appropriate time to put a proper puppy collar on the dog and attach the puppy leash that will be used for the puppy’s first walk. Encourage the puppy to walk around with you. (yes) or (Click) every time the puppy is within the confines of the leash with no pressure on the leash. It is very important at this stage not to reinforce the puppy pulling on the leash. Do not follow the puppy if she is pullingStand still and encourage the puppy back to youHead off in a different directionPuppy Jumping Puppies jump to reach us, to get into our faces and give us puppy kisses. Most dogs jumping behavior that is a problem to owners has not only been encouraged by people but reinforced by people. It is unfair for us, humans, when the dog gets older to blame the dog for this jumping behavior. It is also ineffective to do any of the traditional things such as grab the dog’s feet and pinch, knee the dog in the chest or push the dog away. We need to teach puppy owners that they need to teach their puppies to keep all four paws on the floor. We will refer to this as “Four on the Floor.”As with most of our training the jumping or lack of jumping behavior will be learned from the dog’s environment and daily interactions with family members as well as formal training sessions. The family needs to decide that jumping is not allowed and the puppy must not be greeted, stroked petted, treated, given access to toys, outside or any other reinforcement unless they have “Four on the Floor.” Simple, everyone in the family needs to obey this principle or they are going to have a more difficult problem to solve in the future.Puppy Games can teach all kinds of behaviors such as Hide-N-Seek. Family members hide from the dog and each person takes it in turn to call the dog. The dog will have great fun searching out the family member calling and who will give the puppy reinforcement when puppy finds them. But guess what, when a puppy finds the person they do not get reinforcement until “Four on the Floor”.How to Teach a Puppy a Soft Mouth - Training OverviewDon’t Let Them Bite the Hand That Feeds ThemIf you or your friends have a dog that still nips or bites inappropriately during play then you may have a “Bite School Drop Out” on your hands. Because most dogs are adopted into our homes as 8 week old puppies we take them from the “bite school” of their mother and siblings before they have learned important “bite inhibition” skills. So we have to pick up where mom left off and teach our puppies how to use their mouths appropriately. Puppies explore the whole world with their mouths, they learn about sizes, shapes, textures and the pain they can inflict when they bite too hard. Puppy mouthing is cute when they have little pincers but when they reach 80 pounds and have big teeth even mouthing should not be acceptable. It will be hard to explain to friends that your 80 pound German Shepherd that puts its teeth on their daughter is ok because “our dog will not bite”. All dogs can bite and if pushed or threatened they will defend themselves by fleeing or biting. A dog that has learned appropriate bite inhibition however will cause little or no damage even if pushed to the extreme of biting. But puppies need to bite and chew, especially when teething, so we must provide them with the correct things to bite and chew on. For example, it is not a good idea to give your puppy one of your old shoes to chew on. Your puppy does not understand the concept of ‘old.’ They do however know what a shoe is so shoes and other personal non-dog items of ours should be off limits. Teaching a puppy not to mouth and not to bite are two different exercises. And we won’t try to completely stop them from doing both right off the bat because then they may not learn about bite pressure if we do. It is more important and critical to their development that they learn what mouth pressure is acceptable and what is unacceptable. One of the best ways for puppies to learn bite inhibition is to enroll them in a well run, safe puppy class where they can play and learn the fight and play rituals with their own kind. Dogs teach other dogs great lessons about bite inhibition so playing with other dogs is an important part of your puppy’s education. Bite inhibition Training Puppies have to learn at a very early age that they cannot put their teeth onto our skin, clothing or body in any way. They have to be taught a soft mouth. Puppies learn to develop this soft mouth from their mother and siblings through feeding, play and mock fighting. In addition, children or adults inappropriately playing with small cute puppies often encourage biting and only when larger teeth grow in and/or the puppy’s jaw strengthens does the biting suddenly become a problem if the dog has not learned bite inhibition. The following are simple guidelines for owners when they have a puppy that is biting during petting or restraint. First we address the biting and then we can address the mouthing. While we address the biting the puppy can mouth, have a soft mouth, but they must not apply any pressure or cause pain. As soon as we have a good soft mouth then we can work toward eliminating the play mouthing with a leave it or off cue. The goal is to teach the puppy that they cannot use their teeth to grasp, manipulate or gain control over a human hand or in fact any other item other than their toys. How to Prevent Puppy Biting:During play with the puppy if the puppy bites, applies pressure with their teeth, then you stop petting them. This teaches the puppy that biting ends the interaction. (This is assuming we have a normal puppy and not a puppy that is resistant to human contact of a normal nature). When petting the puppy and he is exploring and using his mouth, as soon as pressure is applied say ‘OUCH’. If the puppy stops then lure them into a sit using a nice treat and reward themIf ‘ouch’ does not do the job then you will have to create some false pain and associated noises. I recommend a high pitch yelp and pull back the hand. Remove yourself and stop interacting with the puppy. This is exactly what a puppy sibling would do if nipped too hard.Return after 30 seconds and continue playing. Your puppy will learn very quickly that nips stop the game and fun ends.Use the level, tone and pitch appropriate to get results, do not traumatize the puppy as this will make them hand shy.Do not allow the puppy to play bite anything other than toys. They cannot differentiate between your hands, your cloths and your furniturePlaying with a puppy that has a soft mouth is an important part of their development; they need to train their mouths to have bite inhibition. If we scare or punish them into stopping any mouth contact at all then we have not done our jobs in teaching them and enabling them to develop good mouth control. Teaching Puppy ‘leave’ and ‘take it’When puppy is only mouthing then we can teach them an ‘off’ or ‘leave it’ cue to remove their mouth from us completely. That way they can mouth when they play but we can stop them if necessary. Hand feed the puppy using a large soft chewy treats you can hold in your handAs puppy is nibbling, remove your hand, if puppy comes to get the treat say ‘off‘ and close your hand.When puppy backs away, sits down or stops, reinforce and reintroduce the treat, tell the puppy ‘take it’This teaches the puppy that mouthing is ok if we allow it and it teaches them that if they “off or leave” they will gain access to the treat when we tell them they can ‘take it’Creating a Motivating Toy for the PuppyNot all dogs will naturally pick up toys and love playing with them. Dogs are not genetically bred to see a tennis ball and say “Oh my there is a tennis ball, I must play with it”. Toys are a great tool to help with training so it is worth teaching your dog to enjoy playing with and be motivated by toys.I often hear people say that their dog is not "into" toys. Some dogs will not naturally play with toys but you can create the desire with a little work on your part. If you have a dog owner who has not used toys to play with their dog then the dog will not be interested in them. Remember classical conditioning. Pair a toy with an unconditioned stimulus, food, and you will soon have the toy evoking the same kind of emotional response. Remember how we conditioned the clicker. You can also shape a dog to play with a toy by (‘yes’) or (‘Click’) each time they look at it, pick it up, chase it etc. Some dogs will want to play or interact with a toy by pairing the toy with play. Advise dog owners to choose an appropriately sized toy. Maybe it has a squeaker or another noise that their dog is interested in and have them follow the sequence belowPlace the toy in a drawer or shelf in one of your living areas. Before each meal start to act a bit loopy, while saying really fun things to your dog (like "oh no!", "what is it?", "do you want this?", "where's your toy?", etc.) walk, dance, skip...basically act goofy while you make your way over to the special drawer holding the toy. S-l-o-w-l-y open up the drawer while continuing to say nice friendly and fun things to your dog. Stop talking and then pull the toy out of the drawer like you just found a $500.00 bill and run with it into the next room. Play with the toy, throwing it around, hugging it, and swinging it. Dance around for a few more seconds. This whole process should only take 1-2 minutes the first time it is done. . End the fun game, which didn't include the dog. Run back to the drawer with the toy and put it away. Do this regularly and the dog will soon show great interest in not only the draw but what is inside it. This method works particularly well on young dogs and puppies. Shaping a Toy Play BehaviorYou can shape a ball drive behaviorYou can shape a Frisbee drive behaviorYou can also condition a secondary reinforcer in the same way that you condition a clicker – take the neutral stimulus, the toy, and then present an unconditioned stimulusCrate Training a Puppy Crate training some puppies is as easy as feeding a puppy in the crate and placing treats and toys in the crate. Other puppies will find the crate an aversive and will need to be shaped to enter, stay in and enjoy their crate.When I discuss the concept of crate training with pet dog owners they often look a little befuddled. I know exactly what they are thinking in most cases before they even open their mouths. Pet owners think of their dogs as family members, loved ones in some cases even our furry kids. Why would we want to put them in a crate?There are many benefits to crate training a dog, especially if you have a puppy or a young dog and you are in the process of house training. I often ask people, especially those with small children, if they ever used baby pens. “Of course they reply, I would have never had any peace or quiet.” Well a crate for a puppy is the same concept as a baby pen. You would never leave your baby or child unsupervised, free to wander in the house where they could injure themselves. Puppies, like small children, need a place they can go when you are not able to watch every move they make; a safe place where they can hear, see and smell you without being underfoot. A crate is a safe and quiet place your dog can go when they want peace and quiet to snooze or just to withdraw into their own sanctuary. I have never met a dog that does not enjoy their crate if the crate is introduced into their world correctly. There are many benefits of crate training your dog not just for housebreaking but also to prevent destructive behaviors such as chewing, counter surfing and trash exploring, especially while you are away. When a pet is injured or sick a crate is an ideal location for them to rest and, should you ever need to evacuate your dog you will be grateful if you can safely contain your dog on a long journey, in a shelter or in compliance with a hotel’s pet policy. Contrary to what many may think, a crate is not a tool for punishment, or a long term confinement tool. With training, an adult dog can remain in a crate for up to 8 hours but will need plenty of exercise before and after crating and an assortment of toys for mental stimulation during its time in the crate. There are many different sizes, models and varieties of crates. The more durable crates designed for airline travel, in my opinion, do not make the best crate for home use as they tend to be bulky and restrict the dog’s view of their environment. For my dogs, I use the canvas/mesh style of crates for their daily use and that is where they often disappear to be alone while we read or watch television. This design provides for shaded visibility, they fold easily, are durable and can be moved or stored with little problem. Many pet stores provide the metal wire crates that collapse and can be easily moved around the house. These are good crates for large dogs and dogs that may chew. They also come with accessories such as water bowls, fans to keep your pooch cool, and fabric covers to blend with your home décor.To start the crate training process make going into the crate a game. Dogs should be encouraged, not forced, into their crates. To generate interest feed them in the crate with the door left open, throw in the odd treat or toy and soon you will find them happily exploring the inside of their crate looking for a surprise. As you progress with familiarizing your dog with its crate you can move to the next step by gently closing the door and giving them treats for staying quietly inside. Then progress on to actually fastening the door and then begin extending the time you leave them in their crate. Remember, offer treats and toys to go in and do not let them out if they are barking or pawing at the door. You want to only let them out when they are calm and quiet or they will learn very quickly that if they bark or paw you open the door. If you work on this and make it a fun happy place for your dog you will soon find them choosing to snooze in their crate as happy as can be.If the dog has had a very traumatic experience with a crate, such as an airplane trip, then you may have to introduce the crate into the dog’s home more slowly.TipsPosition the crate in the house for several days before you begin training the dog and just let it sit as an inanimate object. Do not put any focus on the crate. If the dog shows interest at any level just remain neutral. When the placement of the crate no longer affects your dog then you can begin training. Commence Training Criteria 1 - Sitting quietly by the crate with the door open. Sit down in front of the crate with the dog and have a supply of whatever treats he really likes. Show him a treat and toss it just inside the mouth of the crate. Allow the dog to reach in and take the treat. As he steps in say (‘yes’) or (Click) If the dog stays inside say (‘yes’) or (Click) and throw in a few more treats.Important Note Repeat several times, sometimes requiring that he step a little further inside the crate. Always permit him to step back out at will. Treats should be tiny so you can do lots of work without him getting full. Using the kibble from their dinner bowl is great, they are already hungry and they have to work for their supper. Criteria 2 - Sitting by the crate with the door open. Show the dog a treat and move as though you are tossing it inside the crate. When the dog looks in the crate, click or say “Yes!” Then toss the treat inside. Allow the dog to reach in and take the treat. As he steps in say (‘yes’) or (Click) If the dog stays inside say (‘yes’) or (Click) and throw in a few more treats.Criteria 3 - Sitting by the crate with the door open. Sit by the crate, when your dog looks to the crate or makes any movement to the crate say (‘yes’) or (Click) Allow the dog to reach in and take the treat. As he steps in say (‘yes’) or (Click) If the dog stays inside say (‘yes’) or (Click) and throw in a few more treats.The progression for shaping this exercise may follow like the below. It is important to shape this behavior. Criteria 1 and 2 were about luring the dog into the crate, now we want the dog to voluntarily learn, by its behavior around the crate, that it gets rewarded.Shaping Procedure Dog takes two steps toward the crate, click and toss a treat into the mouth of the crate.Dog moves to the crate and sticks his head inside the doorway, click and toss a treat into the crate.Dog moves to the crate and places one front paw into the crate, click and toss a treat into the crate.Dog moves to the crate and places one front paw, then the other, into the crate, click and toss a treat into the crate.Dog moves to the crate, places both front paws in the crate, then takes another step deeper into the crate, click and toss a treat into the crate.Dog moves to the crate, steps into the crate, and places one rear paw into the crate, click and toss a treat into the crate.Dog moves to the crate, steps inside the crate, and places rear paws in the crate, click and toss a treat into the crate. Important Note At this point, the dog may back out of the crate or may turn around and walk forward out of the crate. Give a second treat when the dog exits the crate. Turning in the crate is preferred to exiting, as it sets you up nicely for subsequent steps. If the dog is inclined to back out, try reaching in with a treat in your hand, and luring the dog around. If the dog is nervous when you reach in, try a wider crate. He may feel more comfortable turning in a wider space or he may be more comfortable with you luring him around. Once turning is well established, wean off reaching in and luring him.Dog moves to crate, steps inside, turns around, click and quickly reach inside to hand the treat.Introduce a verbal cue As the dog moves into the crate tell the dog to go inside the crate, such as “Go in your crate,” “Get in your box,” “Load up,” etc. Say this just prior to the dog moving toward the crate. If the dog starts to move to the crate before you tell him, that’s fine. Cue the dog to get in the crate, dog moves to crate, steps inside, turns around, and takes a step toward the exit, click and reach inside to hand the treat. You should skip this step if the crate is so small that the dog can only take one step before exiting the crate.Cue the dog to get in the crate, dog moves to crate, steps inside, turns around, cue the dog to sit or lie down—whichever he is most likely to do. When he sits or lies down say (‘yes’) or (Click) and quickly reach inside to offer the treat. If you need to, cue the dog to sit or lie down, and then reach inside to lure the dog into position.Cue the dog to get in the crate, dog moves to crate, steps inside, turns around, cue the dog to sit or lie down. When he does, cue him to stay, wait 1-2 seconds, click and quickly reach inside to offer the treat. Say “Okay” and move back out of the crate so the dog can exit the dog should begin to automatically sit or lie down when he goes into the crate, without you having to cue him. If at any time the dog exits the crate before completing the full sequence of turning and sitting or lying down or staying, say “Too bad!” and withhold the treat. Start again. If he fails more than twice in a row, do something to help him succeed—maybe reach in with a treat to lure him to step further inside or to adopt the ‘sit’ or ‘lie down’ position. Rely on this only once or twice; after that, he should be expected to perform the sequence himself. If he still fails, quit the session (maybe the dog is tired of the training) or revert to an earlier step and get an easier, well established behavior before progressing againWhen the dog can go inside the crate, sit or lie down and stay for 10-20 seconds, begin closing the door. Do this gradually so the dog becomes used to the door closing. Dogs with a history of disliking a crate will need a long time at this step to become comfortable with the crate door closing.Continue to increase the time the dog is inside the crate, with the door latched. If the dog stands up or scratches at the door, say “Uh uh” and cue the dog to lie down again.Once the dog is able to lie down in the crate for one to two hours, always give him something nice to eat or chew to pass the time such as a stuffed Kong, Goodie Ship, Dentabone, Greenie, or chew bone. Skip this step if the dog is inclined to guard these items because it is important that you can remove the treat each time you allow the dog to exit the crateAs the dog tolerates longer periods of time in the crate, vary your position so you are not always sitting right by the crate. Sit further away, stand up, move about the room, etc. Make sure the dog is comfortable with you moving about the room before you ever attempt to leave the room or the house. Some dogs may never be able to tolerate staying in the crate while you engage in an activity they consider fun, such as sweeping the floor, playing with your child, visiting with guests, or training another pet. If you must crate the dog at these times, it is better to move the crate to a more isolated location. Alternatively, you may have to put up with the dog barking and scratching to be released. Any time the dog is whining, barking, or scratching to be released from the crate, always cue the dog to sit or lie down before opening the door. The dog will learn that sitting or lying down is the best way to get you to open the door. Make sure you don’t inadvertently teach the dog to whine, bark, or scratch to be released. Just make sure that most of the time you release the dog from the crate before he engages in these behaviors. If you find that he is always demanding to be released, you need to go back to the beginning steps and build up his comfort level again.Training Tips During training feed the dog in the crate. Maybe throwing the kibble in so he has to stay in there to eat it.Put a couple of chew toys in there so the crate is always fun.Step away from the door if he is hesitant to enter.Give him ‘jackpots’ when he first goes in. Throw lots of little yummy treats in there.Make the crate fun; I have crawled into my crate with my dogs to give them hugs.Play Games with the crate, retrieve games where you throw things into the crate and have them dash in and retrieve the article and bring it back to you. The Ten Rules to Housetraining a Puppy In Ten DaysDepending on your dog, your family and your lifestyle, housetraining a dog can be anywhere from easy, to almost impossible. Many dog owners get lucky and in spite of mistakes they unknowingly make, they find themselves with a housetrained dog. On the other hand, some dog owners need help from a dog trainer or dog behavior counselor. Even a small number of these pet owners may become desperate when everything they do, even under professional counsel, seems futile. The more difficult housetraining cases to crack are those of dogs that, by mistake, have become ‘reverse’ housetrained by their owners. ‘Reverse’ housetraining results when dogs have been allowed to go to the bathroom inside the home and then been inadvertently reinforced for doing so. Another difficult housetraining example to correct includes puppies from pet stores, puppy mills and backyard breeders where the puppies have been raised in contained, unsanitary conditions. Since they have no alternative these puppies eat and sleep in the same area they use as their bathroom. So, when you bring a new puppy or rescue dog into your home, or if have an older dog that is not yet housetrained, follow our “Ten Rules to Housetraining” and you should be relieved (no pun intended) to find in ten days you have a housetrained dog. Managing the EnvironmentThe first thing you need to do before you start your housetraining plan is to ensure your home is free from urine stains and residual odors. Purchase a black light and a pet odor remover from your local pet store. When it is dark, turn off all the lights and thoroughly inspect your home, carpets, furniture and tiled area. The black light will reveal any old stains so you can effectively clean and remove them. There are many very effective pet stain/odor cleaning products available on the market.If you don’t already have one, purchase a good quality wire crate that is large enough for your dog to stand up, lie down and turn around in. Position the crate in a quiet, but not isolated part of your home. You will also need three Kongs (chew toys you can stuff with treats), a squeaky toy, a nylon collar and a 6 foot nylon leash. Develop and follow a 24 hour management schedule of potty breaks. This is critical because you don’t want your puppy to have an accident. Your schedule should include meals, play time, training time, bathroom breaks and sleep time for the entire 10 day program. Bathroom breaks should be scheduled every four hours except overnight when you can allow 6 hours. The plan should also include two or three feeding sessions, one in the morning, one midday and the last one no later than 6pm. Your dog should not have access to drinking water after 8pm or three hours before it goes into its crate to sleep for the night. If you can’t be home during the midday break, either schedule some time off work or hire a dog walker or pet sitter that can help you with that portion of your housetraining schedule. This will be vital for success. Keep a daily journal on your dog’s eating schedule and bathroom habits. Note when your dog urinates and defecates. Note the exact time your dog eats and any other treats it is given during the day. Your journal will help you determine how long after eating and drinking your dog typically needs to use the bathroom. You can use this information to adjust your schedule if necessary. Your dog’s day will include meals, sleep, play, training and bathroom breaks. During each of these periods the dog is either in its crate or tethered to you. Give your dog a Kong stuffed with yummy treats for mental enrichment while it is in its crate. Your dog must be supervised 100% of the time during the housetraining period. When the dog is tethered to you, watch for signs of needing to go to the bathroom. If you notice your dog sniffing the ground, walking in circles or looking uncomfortable then quickly take the dog outside to its designated bathroom area and follow rule number 7. Training the BehaviorAt the scheduled bathroom times take your dog from its crate, on a leash, and take it to its designated bathroom area. Keep your dog on its 6 foot leash but let it explore while you stand in one spot. Initially ignore your dog. Because your dog isn’t getting any attention from you and there will be limited things of interest to explore in the restricted area defined by the leash, your dog will eventually go to the bathroom. Once your dog has finished, praise it with ‘good doggie.’ Give it lots of attention and treats. Have a little celebration with your dog. This lets your dog know that its behavior is remarkable and deserves praise. You MUST create a situation where your dog wants to go to the bathroom in that particular area.Only after your dog has been to the bathroom should it be let off the leash to play or taken for its ‘long’ walk. This ensures that your dog will soon learn that the more quickly it completes its bathroom behavior the more quickly it gets its reward of treats, play, its walk or all three. ALWAYS exercise or play with or train your dog for at least ten minutes before you take it back inside to its crate. Developing the RelationshipShow your dog you are a trusting and benevolent leader. Never punish your dog for mistakes. Your dog’s accidents are your accidents. If, as described in rule 6, you notice your dog displaying signs of needing the bathroom while inside and you are slow getting your dog outside, simply get their attention with a loud clap of your hands and immediately take your dog outside to their bathroom area (you can clean up any inside accident later). When dogs are exposed to consistent, accident-free housetraining systems you will be surprised at how quickly they learn. With the right level of commitment and conscientious use of a training schedule you can train a dog to be solidly housetrained in ten days. The DogSmith Recommended Housetraining PlanPlease note that the time blocks will be determined by your puppy’s age and your individual schedule, waking time, working hours and bedtime. The DogSmith suggests that if you have had housetraining problems already stick to this program for a week and ensure the puppy is accident free, and then using your daily log you can adjust the schedule. After collecting bathroom habit data for a week you will be able to accurately determine, based on meal times, when your puppy needs to go to the bathroom. Time RangeActionTipsActual – check defecation/urination and other commentsFirst thing in the morning.Between 6am and 7.30 am take your puppy outside straight from their crateTake puppy outside for a bathroom break on a leash and to the designated area. Stand firmly in the designated area until your puppy goes to the bathroom. Praise the bathroom behavior and reward with a treat and love. Play/walk your dog after he/she goes to the bathroom.Feed puppy on return/ Crate puppyThe DogSmith suggests hand feeding the puppy and incorporating a lure-reward training session into meal times. Focus training on simple but important behaviors such as Sit, Down & Name Recognition exercises.Do not bring your puppy straight back inside after going to the bathroom. The puppy may learn that bathroom behavior means that their freedom ends when they go back inside immediately.Note: you must go outside with your puppy Poop UrineCommentWithin one hour after eating breakfastBetween 7am and 8.30amTake puppy outside for a bathroom break on a leash and to the designated area. Stand firmly in the designated area until the puppy goes to the bathroom Praise bathroom behavior and reward with a treat and love. Play/walk the dog after the puppy goes to the bathroom and then put the puppy into the crate. Do not bring your puppy straight back inside after going to the bathroom. The puppy may learn that bathroom behavior means that their freedom ends when they go back inside immediately. Poop UrineCommentMiddayBetween 11am and 12.30pmTake puppy outside for a bathroom break on a leash and to the designated area. Stand firmly in the designated area until your puppy goes to the bathroom. Praise bathroom behavior and reward with a treat and love. Play/walk the dog after he/she goes to the bathroom. The DogSmith suggests hand feeding the puppy and incorporating a lure-reward training session into meal times. Focus training on simple but important behaviors such as Sit, Down & Name Recognition exercises.Do not bring your puppy straight back inside after going to the bathroom. The puppy may learn that bathroom behavior means that their freedom ends when they go back inside immediately.Poop UrineCommentLATE AfternoonBetween 3pm and 4.30pmTake puppy outside for a bathroom break on a leash and to the designated area. Stand firmly in the designated area until your puppy goes to the bathroom. Praise bathroom behavior and reward with a treat and love. Play/walk the dog after he/she goes to the bathroom. Feed puppy on return and Crate puppyThe DogSmith suggests hand feeding the puppy and incorporating a lure-reward training session into meal times. Sit, Down, Name RecognitionDo not bring your puppy straight back inside after going to the bathroom. The puppy may learn that bathroom behavior means that their freedom ends when they go back inside immediately.Poop UrineCommentEARLY EveningBetween 7pm and 8pmTake puppy outside for a bathroom break on a leash and to the designated area. Stand firmly in the designated area until your puppy goes to the bathroom. Praise bathroom behavior and reward with a treat and love. Play/walk the dog after he/she goes to the bathroom. Remove water from the puppy’s crate.Do not bring your puppy straight back inside after going to the bathroom. The puppy may learn that bathroom behavior means that their freedom ends when they go back inside immediately.Poop UrineCommentLATE EveningJust before bedtimeTake puppy outside for a bathroom break on a leash and to the designated area. Stand firmly in the designated area until the puppy goes to the bathroom Praise bathroom behavior and reward with a treat and love. Play/walk the dog after the puppy goes to the bathroom. Return the puppy to the crate for bedtimeDo not bring your puppy straight back inside after going to the bathroom. The puppy may learn that bathroom behavior means that their freedom ends when they go back inside immediately.Poop UrineCommentNIGHT Time The importance of the night time bathroom break will be determined by the age of the puppy and its ability to hold its bladder during the night. Take puppy outside for a bathroom break on a leash and to the designated area. Play with the puppy until she goes to the bathroom. Praise bathroom behavior and reward with a treat and love. Play for several minutes after puppy goes to the bathroom.Do not bring your puppy straight back inside after going to the bathroom. The puppy may learn that bathroom behavior means that their freedom ends when they go back inside immediately.Poop UrineCommentThe DogSmith Puppy Skill Sheet The DogSmith Puppy Skill CriteriaThe DogSmith Puppy Training Plan Record For Options 1,2&3Puppy Daily Train-Test-Train SheetDate____________________________Day 1TimeSkillCriteria ReachedObservationsPuppy Daily Train-Test-Train SheetDate____________________________Day____________________________TimeSkillCriteria ReachedObservationsPuppy Daily Train-Test-Train SheetDate____________________________Day____________________________TimeSkillCriteria ReachedObservationsPuppy Daily Train-Test-Train SheetDate____________________________Day____________________________TimeSkillCriteria ReachedObservationsPuppy Daily Train-Test-Train SheetDate____________________________Day____________________________TimeSkillCriteria ReachedObservationsPuppy Daily Train-Test-Train SheetDate____________________________Day____________________________TimeSkillCriteria ReachedObservationsPuppy Daily Train-Test-Train SheetDate____________________________Day____________________________TimeSkillCriteria ReachedObservationsPuppy Daily Train-Test-Train SheetDate____________________________Day____________________________TimeSkillCriteria ReachedObservationsPuppy Daily Train-Test-Train SheetDate____________________________Day____________________________TimeSkillCriteria ReachedObservationsPuppy Daily Train-Test-Train SheetDate____________________________Day____________________________TimeSkillCriteria ReachedObservationsPuppy Daily Train-Test-Train SheetDate____________________________Day____________________________TimeSkillCriteria ReachedObservationsPuppy Daily Train-Test-Train SheetDate____________________________Day____________________________TimeSkillCriteria ReachedObservationsPuppy Daily Train-Test-Train SheetDate____________________________Day____________________________TimeSkillCriteria ReachedObservationsPuppy Daily Train-Test-Train SheetDate____________________________Day____________________________TimeSkillCriteria ReachedObservationsPuppy Daily Train-Test-Train SheetDate____________________________Day____________________________TimeSkillCriteria ReachedObservationsThe DogSmith Small Paw Etiquette ClassThis class incorporates the Puppy Star Elements if you have received your AKC “GCG” Evaluator credentials from the American Kennel Club.AKC S.T.A.R. Puppy? Program!Test Items and PledgeA key component of the AKC S.T.A.R. Puppysm Program is a responsible owner. Our Canine Good Citizensm Responsible Dog Owner’s Pledge is applicable to the AKC S.T.A.R. Puppysm Program too. Responsibility should start the moment you decide to add a dog or puppy to your family.AKC CGCsm Responsible Dog Owner’s PledgeI will be responsible for my dog’s health needs. These include:routine veterinary care including check-ups and vaccinesadequate nutrition through proper diet; clean water at all timesdaily exercise and regular bathing and groomingI will be responsible for my dog’s safety.I will properly control my dog by providing fencing where appropriate, not letting my dog run loose, and using a leash in public.I will ensure that my dog has some form of identification when appropriate (which may include collar tags, tattoos, or microchip ID).I will provide adequate supervision when my dog and children are together.I will not allow my dog to infringe on the rights of others.I will not allow my dog to run loose in the neighborhood.I will not allow my dog to be a nuisance to others by barking while in the yard, in a hotel room, etc.I will pick up my dog’s waste in all public areas such as on the grounds of hotels, on sidewalks, parks, etc. and properly dispose of it.I will pick up my dog’s waste in wilderness areas, on hiking trails, campgrounds and in off-leash parks and properly dispose of it.I will be responsible for my dog’s quality of life.I understand that basic training is beneficial to all dogs.I will give my dog attention and playtime.I understand that owning a dog is a commitment in time and caring.20 STEPS to Success: The AKC S.T.A.R. Puppy? TestS ocializationT rainingA ctivityR esponsibility OWNER BEHAVIORS:1. Maintains puppy’s health (vaccines, exams, appears healthy)2. Owner receives Responsible Dog Owner’s Pledge 3. Owner describes adequate daily play and exercise plan 4. Owner and puppy attend at least 6 classes by an AKC Approved CGC Evaluator 5. Owner brings bags to classes for cleaning up after puppy 6. Owner has obtained some form of ID for puppy-collar tag, etc. PUPPY BEHAVIORS:7. Free of aggression toward people during at least 6 weeks of class 8. Free of aggression toward other puppies in class 9. Tolerates collar or harness of owner’s choice 10. Owner can hug or hold puppy (depending on size) 11. Puppy allows owner to take away a treat or toy PRE-CANINE GOOD CITIZEN? TEST BEHAVIORS:12. Allows (in any position) petting by a person other than the owner 13. Grooming-Allows owner to handle for brief exam (ears, feet) 14. Walks on a leash-Follows owner on lead in a straight line (15 steps) 15. Walks by other people-Walks on leash past other people 5 feet away 16. Sits on cue-Owner may use a food lure 17. ‘Down’ on cue-Owner may use a food lure18. ‘Comes’ to owner from 5 feet when name is called19. Reaction to distractions-Distractions are presented 15 feet away 20. ‘Stay’ on leash with another person (owner walks 10 steps and returns) ................
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