My Girls - True Magic Golden Retrievers
True Magic
Golden
Retrievers
TOPICS PAGE
Equipment Needed 2
Puppy Checklist 2
Feeding Schedule 3
Weight Guidelines 3
Crate and Potty Training 4
Health and Wellness 5
Vaccination Schedule 6
Obedience and Behavior 9
New Dog to Resident Dog 10
Biting 11
Playtime 11
Plants Poisonous to Dogs 13
Contact Information for Poison 15
Feeding and Weight Record 16
ADDITIONAL ARTICLES
Cancer Research
Vaccination Protocol
New Approach to Vaccination
Destructive Behavior in Dogs
Choke Collar or Strangle Chain?
Drive Safely with Your Dog
How to Remove Dog Urine Stains
Housebreaking
Ear Infections
Is Your Household Safe?
Chewing
Dogs, Cats and Hookworms
Is Your Dog Breeding Quality?
True Magic
Golden
Retrievers
After a long wait, your puppy is finally coming home. There are you some things you will need in order to be prepared and some things you need to know. Let’s start with supplies:
Equipment Needed
➢ Crate (24 x 36 for bitches, larger for dogs)
➢ Stainless steel mini pail – 2 quart with clip
➢ Stainless steel food dish – 2 quart
➢ Guillotine style nail trimmers (Resco - #747)
➢ Kwik stop (for bleeding nails)
➢ Grooming brush
➢ 6 foot leather leash
➢ Nylon or rolled leather choke collar
➢ Iams puppy food for large breeds
➢ Nylabone
➢ Hard solid chew toys (not stuffed or with squeakers)
Puppy Checklist
It is very important to train your puppy correctly from day one. Don’t wait until he is 5 or 6 months old to correct him. By that time, he has already learned bad behavior.
1. Enjoy yourself with your puppy.
2. Talk to your puppy, yes talk. Carry on a conversation. You won’t find a better listener and he’ll talk back; just watch his eyes, his tail and expression. Your pup will soon learn by the tone of your voice just what you want from him. The tone of your voice is a valuable training aid.
3. Encourage proper behavior. Discourage only if your pup knows without a doubt that he is in the wrong. If he doesn’t know what is right, don’t correct him for being wrong. Accent positive behavior. Your pup wants to please you.
4. Decide your vocabulary and stick with it and your family too. Consistency is the key.
5. Don’t give the puppy an old shoe to chew on and expect him to leave your good shoes alone.
6. Don’t feed pup from the table or table scraps, then expect him to eat his food and not beg. You just taught him how to do it.
7. Don’t allow puppy to jump on you and expect him to know that it is wrong when he is full grown or jumps on your guests.
8. Don’t overtire your puppy – time for play and time for rest.
9. Don’t allow children to pick up puppy. Puppies wiggle and squirm and can be easily dropped.
10. Don’t change puppy’s diet too quickly. Slowly introduce new food by mixing with old food, increasing new and decreasing old over a period of several weeks. Changing food too quickly will give the puppy diarrhea.
11. Don’t feed puppy cold food. Could give a stomach ache.
12. Make a resolution that you will give your puppy good care for all of his life. Don’t, after the initial glamour and excitement, cast him out of doors like an old pair of shoes or a broken toy. He is a living creature with feelings just like you. Accept him into your family, not just your house.
Feeding Schedule
About now the puppy is eating about ½ to ¾ cup of mixed food at each meal. Iams mini chunks is the recommended food and what they have been eating, plus one tablespoon of canned pedigree chopped chicken mixed with warm water to moisten the food. Continue on this feeding to make an easier transition to the new home. Don’t be alarmed if puppy doesn’t eat vigorously the first week. This is a stressful time for them in their new home. They must be acclimated and adhering to a schedule will help make this transition easier. Always have plenty of clean fresh water all the time.
Adding warm water to their food decreases the chance of “bloat” which can be fatal to all aged dogs. Keep exercise before and after a meal to minor activity, 30 mins before and after is a good rule of thumb. Bloat occurs when too much food is eaten dry followed by a large amount of water. This causes the food to swell and gas to form. A dog with bloat has 20 mins before the stomach will twist and the dog will die.
Puppy will need to eat 3 times a day with a biscuit at bed. Increase the food by ¼ cup per meal if he is finishing all of his dinner. If they leave some in the bowl, do not increase. Always feed the puppy in the crate and give time to digest before letting out to play, maybe 40 minutes. At 3 ½ months, cut back to 2 feedings a day. Continue to increase food to about 4 months old when they are eating about 3 cups a day (split between 2 meals). They will continue this routine for the rest of the puppy’s life. Always feed the same hours of the day. Please do not listen to pet store people about what to feed. They are not experts on dogs or food, only salespeople. DO NOT GIVE milk, raw eggs, gravy sauce, meat fat, chicken skin, fats of any kind, nor regular bones to your dog. Raw hides and hooves, etc. are not good ideas either. Dogs can not digest these items.
Weight Guidelines - This is a recommended weight chart for your dog. Dogs adult weight = 74 to 80 lbs. Bitches = 58 to 64 lbs.
Age Bitches Dogs
3 months old 23-26 lbs 25-28 lbs
4 months 36 38
5 months 40-46 42-48
6 months 50-54 52-56
7 months 55-58 55-61
8 months 58-60 62-68
9 months 62 level out 65-68
10 months 62 70-72 level out
11/12 months 62-65 76-80
If your puppy is heavier than the above at these ages, he is too fat. Dieting a dog is hard. It takes 6 to 12 weeks to remove 10 lbs on a special diet. Watch his weight!
Crate and Potty Training
Crate training is VITAL to both you and your puppy. Dogs were originally den animals. They like their private space. Never pull them out of or force them in a crate physically. Some pups whine the first few times they are in a crate but this will pass. Make sure they have toys and bones in the crate. Don’t give in and let them out. Start out putting him in a crate for a very short period of time and then let them out with praise. He will learn that the crate is only temporary and should be comforting. Eventually, they will settle down and get used to the crate. Never use the crate as a form of punishment. This makes the crate have a negative meaning instead of someplace your puppy feels safe.
The crate should be placed near the exit in which the puppy is going to be using to go out. If the area is too cold, then put your crate closest to the nearest door. The reason for this is you do not want to carry your puppy to the door. They will never learn where outside is and will take a much longer time to house train.
Place a sheet over the crate and fold it back from the front so it’s able to be left open or covered up as needed. Place a newspaper in front and a small towel or blanket in the rear of the crate. You may find that some puppies like nothing in the crate except for their toys. The crate is not meant to be cruel. It is a tool you use to give your puppy a more structured life. It is to be used as a bed, highchair and time out space. Time limits in the crate should be no longer than one hour if the “alpha” hold didn’t. At bed, take him out for a walk as late as possible, coax him in the crate, give biscuit, say goodnight and cover crate up with sheet just as you would with a birdcage. No Matter What, other than an emergency, Don’t Let the Puppy Out Until Morning – crying or not. This will teach the puppy that every time he cries, it attracts a human response. You will know by the type of cry if something is really wrong or just a cry for attention.
1. Highchair – puppy should eat in a restricted area so they in fact know that it is time to eat. (You wouldn’t allow a small child to take food off the table and run around with it. You would put them in a highchair so they eat.)
2. Playpen – if you can’t watch the puppy, then you need to put the puppy in a safe area. If not the crate, then a pen of sorts.
3. Crib – when your children are young they sleep in a crib and the puppies sleep in a crate. He may have an accident the first or second night but not much after that.
You can put the puppy in the crate when you are busy or going out for 4 hours or so. You should not make the puppy stay in the crate for more than 4 to 6 hours during the day. The only exception is at bedtime where they will learn to ‘hold it’ until morning. Excessive crating can cause the puppy to be wild when they do get out unless they get regular exercise.
Potty Time
Your puppy will have to go potty when:
• Wakes up from sleeping in crate
• Wakes up after nap or in the morning IMMEDIATELY take out
• After a lot of chewing
• When circling around and snuffing means he’s looking for a place
• Playing inside and the puppy gets distracted or just looses interest, he’s probably looking for a place to go
• Right after eating and again a half hour later
Do’s and Don’ts of Potty Training
Do’s
• lots of praise when he goes potty outside, positive reinforcement
• Take out often when you see any of the above signs
• Have puppy follow you out calling ‘pup, pup, pup’
• Always use the same entrance and exit and same spot in the yard so puppy will recognize his own scent
• If you catch puppy in the act, really in the act, take him out immediately and praise.
• Limit area of house to small space such as the laundry room or breakfast area, as long as it’s been puppy proofed.
• If you are unable to watch every move, put him in the playpen (crate) with a bone
Don’t
• Give puppy free run of the house. This will make the whole process much longer.
• Try not to carry puppy outside. If able, have him walk out
• Rub his nose in any accidents. Negative behavior does not work.
• Punish after the behavior
• Give anything to drink after 8:00 or so and no water in the crate overnight.
If puppy goes in the house, it’s the owners fault. Puppies cannot open the door to let themselves out. Be aware, this is a baby. Puppies sometimes mistake carpet for grass so be careful not to leave pup unattended. You wouldn’t punish a newborn baby, this is the same thing. If an accident happens and you see it, puppy should be told ‘no’, taken outside immediately and told ‘good’. If too much time elapses, more than 10 minutes, don’t discipline puppies after the fact. Punish yourself for not noticing the puppy needed to go. It may take 2 days or 2 weeks to train, depending on how diligent you are. They can hold poop for hours, but not pee. That is immediate. They can not control their bladder for another month or so.
Health and Wellness
Between the ages of 3 ½ to 12 months, puppies go through a soft bone stage. During this period when the bones have not hardened, over activity can cause accelerated wear or breaking. This can cause permanent damage to joints and cartilage, especially the hips and elbows. To help prevent this DO NOT ALLOW the puppy to have long periods of hard activity, no running up and down stairs, jumping off steps, in and out of the car, long walks or rough-housing with older dogs.
Vaccination Schedule
Age of Pups Vaccine Type
9 weeks MLV Distemper/Parvovirus only
12 weeks MLV Distemper/Parvovirus only
16 – 20 weeks MLV Distemper/Parvovirus only
Total of 3 doses ONLY
24 weeks or older Killed Rabies Vaccine
1 year MLV Distemper/Parvovirus only booster
1 year (give 3-4 weeks apart from Killed 3 year rabies vaccine
Distemper/Parvo booster) MLV + modified live virus
Bloat, Torsion. Gastric dilatation-volvulus (GDV). Call it what you will, this is a serious, life-threatening condition of large breed dogs. While the diagnosis is simple, the pathological changes in the dog's body make treatment complicated, expensive, and not always successful.
A typical scenario starts with a large, deep-chested dog, usually fed once daily. Factor in the habit of bolting food, gulping air, or drinking large amounts of water immediately after eating to this feeding schedule and body type. Then add vigorous exercise after a full meal, and you have the recipe for bloat. Simple gastric distention can occur in any breed or age of dog and is common in young puppies that overeat. This is sometimes referred to as pre-bloat by laymen. Belching of gas or vomiting food usually relieves the problem. If this condition occurs more than once in a predisposed breed, the veterinarian might discuss methods to prevent bloat, such as feeding smaller meals or giving Reglan (metoclopramide) to encourage stomach emptying. Some veterinarians recommend, and some owner’s request, prophylactic surgery to anchor the stomach in place before the torsion occurs in dogs that have experienced one or more bouts of distention or in dogs whose close relatives have had GDV.
The physiologies of bloat - Torsion or volvulus are terms to describe the twisting of the stomach after gastric distention occurs. The different terms are used to define the twisting whether it occurs on the longitudinal axis (torsion) or the mesenteric axis (volvulus). Most people use the terms interchangeably, and the type of twist has no bearing on the prognosis or treatment. When torsion occurs, the esophagus is closed off, limiting the dog's ability to relieve distention by vomiting or belching. Often the spleen becomes entrapped as well, and its blood supply is cut off.
Now a complex chain of physiologic events begins. The blood return to the heart decreases, cardiac output decreases, and cardiac arrhythmias may follow. Toxins build up in the dying stomach lining. The liver, pancreas, and upper small bowel may also be compromised. Shock from low blood pressure and endotoxin rapidly develops. Sometimes the stomach ruptures, leading to peritonitis. Abdominal distention, salivating, and retching are the hallmark signs of GDV. Other signs may include restlessness, depression, lethargy, anorexia, weakness, or a rapid heart rate.
Treatment - GDV is a true emergency. If you know or even suspect your dog has bloat, immediately call your veterinarian or emergency service. Do not attempt home treatment. Do take the time to call ahead; while you are transporting the dog, the hospital staff can prepare for your arrival. Do not insist on accompanying your dog to the treatment area. Well-meaning owners are an impediment to efficient care. Someone will be out to answer your questions as soon as possible, but for now, have faith in you veterinarian and wait. Initial diagnosis may include x-rays, an ECG, and blood tests, but treatment will probably be started before the test results are in.
The first step is to treat shock with IV fluids and steroids. Antibiotics and anti-arrhythmic may also be started now. Then the veterinarian will attempt to decompress the stomach by passing a stomach tube. If this is successful, a gastric lavage may be instituted to wash out accumulated food, gastric juices, or other stomach contents. In some cases, decompression is accomplished by placing large-bore needles or a trocar through the skin and muscle and directly into the stomach.
In some cases, this medical therapy is sufficient. However, in many cases, surgery is required to save the dog. Once the dog's condition is stabilized, surgery to correct the stomach twist, remove any unhealthy tissue, and anchor the stomach in place is performed. The gastroplexy, or anchoring surgery, is an important procedure to prevent recurrence, and many variations exist. Your veterinarian will do the procedure he feels comfortable with and which has the best success rate. Recovery is prolonged; sometimes requiring hospital stays of a week or more. Post-operative care depends on the severity of the disease and the treatment methods employed and may include a special diet, drugs to promote gastric emptying, and routine wound management. Costs may run $500-1000 or more in complicated cases.
Prevention - Clearly, prevention of GDV is preferable to treatment. In susceptible breeds, feed two or three meals daily and discourage rapid eating. Do not allow exercise for two hours after a meal. As previously mentioned some owners feel that certain bloodlines are at greater risk and choose to have gastroplexy performed as a prophylactic measure. By Kathleen R. Hutton, DVM
Collars – never walk a dog on a slip collar (buckle). If they really pull, they can usually get out of it which poses a danger to you and the pup. No collar should be left while the puppy is unattended. This means in the car, house or crate as it can be caught and cause the puppy to strangle themselves. Make sure the collar and leash are the appropriate weigh for the dog, not too heavy and not too light.
Ear cleaning – use ear solution specific for dogs, not alcohol or peroxide and cotton balls. Start by having all your material within arm’s reach. Squeeze a small amount of solution in the ear canal and massage. Put a couple cotton balls in and massage. The dog will shake his head that’s fine because that works the wax and dirt to the surface. Using your cotton ball, swab out the ear only as far as you can see or your finger will go. Don’t use Q-tips to dig in the ear. You can cause damage if your dog moves suddenly. If you suspect your dog has swimmer’s ear, use a solution made for swimmers ear or just try cleaning first. If you are bathing your dog, use a piece of cotton in the dog’s ear so water doesn’t get in. Rule of Thumb: if the dog’s ears don’t both them, don’t mess with them. You can wipe them out.
Glucosamine –at 12 weeks, give puppy ¼ of a pill once a day. After age 6 months to 12 months, a ½ pill. Then a whole pill up until 18 months. No other supplements are needed after 18 months if the puppy is eating a good dog food.
Grooming – Golden’s are doubled coated which means they have long fur on the top and a downy coat underneath. The downy coat sheds usually in the spring. Give a warm bath with most any shampoo, other than Hartz dog shampoo, which will help shed to come out faster. Then give a good combing. Flea shampoos cannot be used on dogs under 6 months, as well as other flea products. Our club, Gunpowder River Golden Retriever Club, sponsors a grooming clinic once a year. You are more than welcome to join the club and/or attend the grooming clinic. All proceeds go to our club which is a non-profit.
Heartworm – Puppies SHOULD NOT be put on Heartworm preventative until they are 6 months old. No test is needed for this at 6 months because it takes 6 months to develop heartworms. We recommend Heart Guard 30. No other meds are needed at this time as some include poisons which are too much for the young system of the puppy.
Hot Spots – By Susan Lee, eHow Contributor
1. Hot spots are those ugly infected sores that appear on the skin of your golden retriever. The onset of hot spots can be caused by a variety of conditions affecting your dog. Skin allergies, infections, fleas, insect bites and chemical irritants such as lawn care products, among other factors, can cause irritation for your dog. As a result, he will bite, scratch, lick and chew in an effort to find relief, only to cause more irritation. The sores can appear anywhere on your dog and spread rapidly to other areas. There are varieties of causes including the spread of bacteria. Anything that irritates or breaks the skin creates a setting for bacterial contamination if there is any moisture on the skin. The moisture can be from a recent bath or swim, being out in the rain or rolling in wet grass. A slight oozing sore that provides nutrients for bacteria can also spread and create further hot spots. They cause severe itching and suffering to your dog because the infection goes deep into the layers of the skin.
2. Treatment: Hot spots may take two weeks before they start healing. Your vet may need to prescribe oral antibiotics and antihistamines if it is an extensive case of hot spots. Hair may need to be shaved around sore areas to help in the healing process. Be sure that your dog's coat does not remain damp, since this is a perfect environment for bacterial growth. A good, natural, healthy holistic meat-based diet, along with an omega fatty acid supplement, is a key factor in avoiding repeated episodes of hot spots and other skin afflictions.
3. Prevention/Solution: During the spring and late summer months (the time when your dog sheds excessively), it is imperative that your dog is groomed more often. If you notice your dog scratching and biting, causing minor hot spots, treat him right away with an antibiotic cream and monitor him so the problem does not persist. If the hot spots are more serious, contact your vet immediately for professional treatment with an oral antibiotic and/or steroids.
Lyme Disease Vaccination – that’s up to you and your personal situation. Certainly, if you go camping a lot, live in the woods, have fields in your yard, you should consider it. Lyme and other tick disease are fatal to your dog. Have your dog’s blood taken and tittered for what they might need. Don’t just vaccinate without checking.
Nail cutting – should be done once a week forever in order to keep the cuticle trained back. If not sure how to do it, have your vet or groomer show you how. Be sure to have Quik Stop on hand in case you nick the cuticle.
Puppy Proof Your House – Just as you would for a new baby or toddler. Remove items that the puppy may want to chew, which is everything. Only let the puppy chew ‘his’ toys, not shoes, socks, magazines, etc. When your puppy eats your favorite shoe it will be your fault since he can’t tell the difference between the old shoe you gave him as a toy and the new one you just bought.
Teeth cleaning – good nutrition and occasional brushing with a dog toothpaste, not people toothpaste, will prevent any large quantity of tarter or plaque build up on the teeth.
Worming – although the puppy has been wormed 2 or 3 times before you took him home, a check should be done by your vet to see that he stays parasite free. There are not 100% accurate but it’s better than nothing.
Obedience and Behavior
Don’t just let anybody train your pup – that’s why you are the master. Make sure your family is familiar with the obedience terms and what they mean. If everyone is using a different word to describe ‘stay’ the pup will have no idea what you want him to do.
Don’t give in to poor behavior. More than likely, your puppy simply doesn’t understand what you want him to do. Don’t give up. Go back to the beginning. It will be worth the extra time and effort. Use one word or phrase as a release such as ok, or let’s go. Try to be consistent and use this same word when the puppy has completed whatever command you have given.
Commands:
“Sit” – put the treat right in front of your puppy’s nose, gently guide the puppy’s butt to the ground and say ‘sit’.
“Down” – either from a sitting or standing position. Place the palm of your hand over the puppy’s shoulder and gently push downward. Your other hand should have a treat that guides the puppy in a downward direction. Clearly tell the puppy ‘down’.
“Wait” – This is a very important command because you will utilize it everyday. It means ‘wait just a minute’. Tap the crate door closed with the puppy inside; tell the puppy to ‘wait’. After doing this several times, slowly open the door wider. If the puppy starts to come out before you say ‘okay’, you should tap the door in the puppy’s face again.
“Stay” means not to move. Start by standing next to the puppy. Place an open palm in front of the puppy’s face and tell the puppy “stay”. If he moves, put him back in the original starting position. Step right in front of your puppy’s nose and tell the puppy to ‘stay’ again. Eventually, being to slowly back up as the puppy becomes more secure. Hint, this will take some time so be patient.
“Come” – getting the puppy to come to you whenever you call. Using the puppy’s name, call your puppy to you with an excited tone giving an immediate reward whether it is a treat or praise. Continue calling his name as he moves towards you. You can teach him to sit in front of you so you can put a leash on them. Praise all positive behavior.
“Let’s go” – this means to follow you in the direction you are going. Say this and gesture with a hand mention as you walk forward.
In training any animals, be consistent, be patient and the reward will be yours. You will be fulfilled with love and respect that you so desire. Remember, this is your pet first so give them lots of love.
Introducing a New Dog to a Resident Dog by ASPCA
A word before starting: when introducing dogs to one another, first impressions matter. How the dogs interact in their first few encounters can set the tone for their entire relationship, so care must be taken to set everyone up for success. Throwing them together in the back yard and letting them “work it out” can lead to heartbreak (if the integration fails) and occasionally serious injury. Follow these steps to help both dogs get to know each other slowly and carefully.
1. Have the dogs meet on-leash on neutral territory first: this can be a neighbor’s yard, a training center, tennis court, etc. Have both dogs on-leash. Allow them to look at and sniff one another through a barrier, such as a fence, for up to 30 minutes. By then, the novelty of seeing a new dog has worn off, paving the way for a more positive introduction. The idea is simply to acclimate them to each other’s presence without causing tension.
2. Next, have the dogs meet off-leash on neutral territory. Avoid problem areas like gates, doorways or closely confined space: the more room they have to move, the less tension there will be. Wait 2 minutes while they sniff each other, then call them away and move around. If they start to play and it seems to be going well, let them play for a few minutes and then end the session. We want each initial interaction to end on a good note!
3. Finally, have the dogs meet at home: first in the yard, then inside the house. Before the in-house introduction, take the resident dog out to the yard, then bring new dog inside (bringing the new dog inside to meet resident dog can create a negative reaction). Keep each interaction short and pleasant: if signs of tension arise, separate the dogs immediately and try again later. Remember that the introduction will set the tone for their relationship, so it’s important to set everyone up for success!
4. Keep the dogs separate while you are away, either in separate rooms or crates. This is both to prevent injurious fights and the development of inappropriate behavior in your new dog (such as chewing and house soiling).
5. While the dogs can settle minor disputes with each other (such as growling the other off of a toy or their own food bowl), they aren’t allowed to limit each other’s access to you, your family and common areas of the home. Instead of “supporting the dominance” of any one dog, establish yourself as a benevolent leader, rewarding polite behavior and managing the environment to prevent conflicts from developing.
Biting
Biting is a natural behavior for puppies. However puppies need to learn ‘bite inhibition’. That is, they need to learn that they are not allowed to put pressure on human skin. If your puppy is biting, do not pull away. Gently disengage the puppy’s teeth by circling the top of the puppy’s muzzle with your thumb and foreigner. Divert the puppy by giving a toy. If the puppy bites hard, wear gloves. You can also circle the top of the puppy’s muzzle, make eye contact and growl, short, low and throaty ERRRRHHH like his mother would do.
Puppies and Children – Children are especially likely to stimulate biting in puppies. They run, they tumble, they scream in a high pitched voice. Certain guidelines are needed for contact between children and puppies.
1. Children should wear appropriate clothing around the puppy. Clothing that covers skin is best; denim jeans, long sleeve shirts, leather shoes or boots. Thin cotton PJs or nightgowns bare feet and bare arms are not recommended.
2. Children should not play running games with the puppy. Teach your children not to play these games. Allowing the puppy to chase children will result in a puppy that grabs on grips clothing, and when large enough, will knock a child down.
3. Be prepared with a special toy that the puppy really likes and the only time the puppy gets to play with it is when the child is present. Then the puppy will being looking for the toy each time the child appears and will focus on the toy in appropriate biting.
4. Teach the puppy appropriate games to play with the child such as those included.
5. Provide the puppy with stuffed Kongs, marrow bones, toys, etc. so the puppy and children can hang out together with biting incidents.
6. Instruct the children to go to a safe spot where the puppy cannot reach them such as up on the couch or bed if play gets out of control. Then you can step in and fix the situation.
7. If the puppy gets totally over-stimulated and excited, which they will, give him a short “time out” in a quiet are preferably in this crate.
If you consistently monitor the interaction between your child and your puppy, you can increase the likelihood that the puppy will give up inappropriate behavior and becomes a welcome member of your household. Remember, puppyhood is only a short period of your dog’s life. Enjoy the wonderful portions of it and control and modify the objectionable parts.
Playtime
Play using toys; never use your hands for play. The puppy is unable to distinguish the difference between your finger and the toys that he is allowed to play with. Some people like to face slap the puppy or shake the puppy’s mussel. This causes the puppies to hand bite in order to defend themselves. For some people this might be okay, but most people don’t like it. Blowing in the puppy’s face causes face snapping, not a good idea. Try playing hide and seek with a toy or retrieving.
Hide and Seek – have some treats with you. Select a room to hide the object. Make sure your pup sees the object first. Crate the pup while you hide the object. After it’s hidden, go get puppy and say ‘find it. After he finds it, celebrate. Let him have the treat. Make it easy the first couple of times. When he finds it, reward him. Make it harder as you go.
Retrieving – this is one of the best games to play with your dog. Pick toys that you can throw and the dog likes to play with. Save these toys solely for this game so your pup will begin to learn what you are going to play. Many dogs like to carry things around in their mouth. Praise this behavior so you can use this behavior in the game. Get 2 similar objects. Throw one a short distance and when the puppy runs and picks it up, show him you have the other toy. The puppy should drop the one they have and pick up the one the puppy dropped. You can then repeat the procedure but be sure to stop when the puppy still wants to play and not when he is tired of the game.
When young puppies initially bring you toys, praise them and don’t take it away. While you think they enjoy having you take the toys and throw them, puppies actually view what you are doing as stealing their toys and become reluctant to bring you things. If the pup brings you things, switch it out for a similar object.
Puppies in the House – It is important to remember that like toys, puppy may not be able to distinguish the difference between the good couch and the old couch. That is why they should not be allowed on any furniture until you can train them differently. It will keep everyone from becoming frustrated and you will feel more relaxed not having to follow him around. If there is an area in your home you do not wish the puppy to play in then you should block that area off until the puppy understands this is off limits. Baby gates work fine. Eventually you can teach them not to go up the stairs or cross over on to hardwood, etc. but it all takes time and patience.
If you bring your puppy in the house and play in the living room, that area will become his play area. Don’t expect your puppy to come in and lay down after you taught him to play in that room. Like children, make your rules clear and stick to them. If you want your puppy to come in and lay down, then keep his surroundings quiet and calm. Give him a bone to chew and then don’t distribute. They will become confused at first if you mix the play and the clam. When your puppy is able to understand commands clearly like down then you will be able to play and let them know that’s enough.
Unattended – puppies should remain sleeping in their crates until they can be trusted in the home unsupervised. All puppies are different, but most can do that at about 9 months of age if you have trained him. Start your puppy out lose at home while you cook dinner or watch TV and see how he is. Then try to leave the puppy loose in a SAFE puppy proof area while you’re out for a short period of time. If possible, have someone come to give him a bathroom break. Leave plenty of toys for him to play with. Make sure there is nothing in the room they can destroy. Most important, don’t be surprised if you come home to a mess. Be patient. Most are not allowed without supervision until they are almost a year old if not older. Try the puppy in the bathroom on a weekend day as a test. If the puppy will not lie down and sleep then put him back in the crate until he matures a little more. Do not make the bedroom the play house. It is important that puppy knows this is sleep time, not play time.
Foods to Avoid Feeding Your Pet
• Alcoholic beverages
• Avocado
• Chocolate (all forms)
• Coffee (all forms)
• Fatty foods
• Macadamia nuts
• Moldy or spoiled foods
• Onions, onion powder
• Raisins and grapes
• Salt
• Yeast dough
• Garlic
• Products sweetened with xylitol
Warm Weather Hazards
• Animal toxins—toads, insects, spiders, snakes and scorpions
• Blue-green algae in ponds
• Citronella candles
• Cocoa mulch
• Compost piles Fertilizers
• Flea products
• Outdoor plants and plant bulbs
• Swimming-pool treatment supplies
• Fly baits containing methomyl
• Slug and snail baits containing metaldehyde
Medication
Common examples of human medications that can be potentially lethal to pets, even in small doses, include:
• Pain killers
• Cold medicines
• Anti-cancer drugs
• Antidepressants
• Vitamins
• Diet Pills
Cold Weather Hazards
• Antifreeze
• Liquid potpourri
• Ice melting products
• Rat and mouse bait
Common Household Hazards
• Fabric softener sheets
• Mothballs
• Post-1982 pennies (due to high concentration of zinc)
Plants Poisonous to Dogs
|COMMON NAME |SYMPTOMS WHEN INGESTED |
|Aloe |vomiting, diarrhea, loss of appetite, depression, tremors, change in urine color |
|Amaryllis |vomiting, diarrhea, loss of appetite, depression, abdominal pain, excessive salivation, tremors |
|Apple and Crabapple |seeds, stems and leaves can result in red mucous membranes, dilated pupils, difficulty breathing, panting|
| |and shock |
|Autumn Crocus/Meadow Saffron |oral irritation, bloody vomiting, diarrhea, shock, organ damage, bone marrow suppression |
|Azalea/Rhododendron |vomiting, diarrhea, excessive salivation, weakness, coma, death |
|Calla Lily/Trumpet Lily/Arum Lily |oral irritation and pain, excessive salivation, vomiting, difficulty swallowing |
|Castor Bean/Castor Oil Plant |oral irritation and burning, increased thirst, vomiting, diarrhea, kidney failure, convulsions; Note: |
| |beans are highly toxic |
|Chrysanthemum/Mum/Daisy |vomiting, diarrhea, excessive salivation, loss of coordination, dermatitis |
|Cyclamen |excessive salivation, vomiting, diarrhea, heart arrhythmias, seizures, death |
|Daffodil/Narcissus |vomiting, salvation, diarrhea, convulsions, low blood pressure, tremors, heart arrhythmias |
|Dumbcane |oral irritation and burning, excessive salivation, vomiting, difficulty swallowing |
|Elephant Ears |oral irritation and burning, excessive salivation, vomiting, difficulty swallowing |
|English Ivy |vomiting, abdominal pain, excessive salivation, diarrhea |
|Foxglove |heart arrhythmias, vomiting, diarrhea, weakness, death |
|Hosta |vomiting, diarrhea, depression |
|Hyacinth |vomiting, diarrhea, depression, tremors |
|Hydrangea |vomiting, diarrhea, depression |
|Iris |excessive salivation, vomiting, diarrhea, lethargy |
|Lily of the Valley |vomiting, irregular heart beat, low blood pressure, disorientation, coma, seizures |
|Marijuana/Hashish |depression, vomiting, loss of coordination, excessive salivation, dilated pupils, low blood pressure, low|
| |body temperature, seizure, coma |
|Mistletoe/American Mistletoe |gastrointestinal complications, cardiovascular collapse, difficulty breathing, slow heart rate, behavior |
| |changes, vomiting, diarrhea |
|Oleander |vomiting, diarrhea, loss of coordination, shallow/difficult breathing, muscle tremors, collapse, cardiac |
| |failure |
|Peace Lily |oral irritation and burning, excessive salivation, vomiting, difficulty swallowing |
|Philodendron |oral irritation and burning, excessive salivation, vomiting, difficulty swallowing |
|Pothos/Devil's Ivy |oral irritation and burning, excessive salivation, vomiting, difficulty swallowing |
|Sago Palm |vomiting, black (tarry) stools, jaundice, increased thirst, bruising, blood clotting problems, liver |
| |damage, death |
|Schefflera |oral irritation and burning, excessive salivation, vomiting, difficulty swallowing |
|Tobacco |hyperexcitability then depression, vomiting, loss of coordination, paralysis |
|Tulip |vomiting, depression, diarrhea, excessive salivation |
|Yew/Japanese Yew |sudden death from acute cardiac failure (early signs include muscular tremors, difficulty breathing, |
| |seizures |
IMPORTANT CONTACT INFORMATION
In case of toxin exposure, keep a list of important phone numbers in a visible, easily accessible location. Be sure pet sitters and other people who might be in your home are aware of the location of the list. The following phone numbers should be included:
1. Your primary veterinarian
2. One or more nearby 24-hour veterinary emergency clinics
3. ASPCA Poison Control: (888) 426-4435 (possible fee)
4. Pet Poison Hotline: 800-213-6680 (possible fee)
5. An emergency contact number for you and your dog's co-owner (if applicable).
Karen Shipley: home 717.632.2902, cell 410.259.2923
Email truemagicgoldens@
Feeding and Weight Record
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