Company G – 2nd Delaware Volunteer Infantry Regiment ...



Company G – 2nd Delaware Volunteer Infantry Regiment Vincent’s Brigade

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I: Introduction page 2

II: Safety General page 2

III: Safety - Firearms page 3

IV: General Firearms Provisions page 5

V: Failure of Musket to Fire page 6

VI: Musket Nomenclature & Dismounting page 7

VII: Musket Parts Diagram ……….page 9

VIII: Gunpowder and Making Blanks page 10

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Introduction

Firearms safety must be the first concern of any reenactor.  The term “reenactor” shall be interpreted to mean soldiers and civilians of the 2nd Delaware. In the heat and pressure of a battle reenactment, he must keep his cool in all situations.  Impatience or being hurried could result in serious injury for the reenactor or another participant.  For this reason each new member of the 2nd Delaware will be administered a safety test.  Each new member MUST pass this test before he will be allowed to take the field.

THERE WILL BE NO EXCEPTIONS!

After reviewing the Firearms Safety Handbook, the applicant reenactor must be checked by an officer or non-commissioned/safety officer.  It is the responsibility of the applicant reenactor to notify the safety officer of his/her readiness and arrange a time for testing.  Prior to taking the test, the safety officer/instructor will go over the exam with you so that you have a complete understanding of what is expected. Remember, it is not our intention to make this a difficult process, but to make this a safe environment for everyone.

The primary weapon of an infantry reenactor is the musket, most commonly the rifled musket.  Although the muskets employed by most reenactors are replicas of the originals used during the War, they are almost identical in design and are capable of being just as deadly.  The ammunition used by reenactors with the musket consists of a paper cartridge filled ideally with 60-65 grains of black powder.  This would be considered a “blank” as it contains no ball or other projectile. Once the musket has been charged with powder, it is fired using a percussion cap.  The hammer falls on the cap, which explodes sends a spark into the breech of the musket, igniting the black powder, which then explodes sending flame, smoke and unburned powder from the muzzle.  The explosion of the cap and the resulting discharge of the musket are the occurrences that represent the most danger.  These dangers will be covered specifically in the next section, The Musket in the Field.

Safety - General

Without a doubt safety is the most important subject that can be covered in the Handbook. Safety is the concern of all 2nd Delaware reenactors. Never hesitate to correct an unsafe situation, regardless of the ranks involved. We must all look out for each other! If there is doubt, get clarification. Ask questions. When in doubt during any field exercise, call CEASE FIRE!

The drinking of alcohol in any form is not allowed during public hours. It creates safety problems and it conveys a bad impression to the public.

The first law of safety is always: Common Sense.

There will be zero tolerance of unsafe behavior with a firearm or edged weapon.

There will be zero tolerance of the use of non-prescribed, controlled substances.

For those with medical problems, let a pard know of your problem. If you wear a Medical Alert tag on your wrist or neck this is perfectly OK. If no one knows how to help you, it can be dangerous. We want you to be a living credit to our hobby.

Safety - Firearms

First Law of Firearms The First Law of firearm safety is: Consider a firearm as being LOADED and DEADLY at all times!

Firearms Definition

Weapons shall be understood to be "Firearms" are defined as a weapon capable of firing a missile, especially a rifle or pistol using an explosive charge as a propellant.

Firearms Safety

A. No weapon will be allowed to field if it slips out of half cock when activated by the trigger on your finger (full weight of weapon on trigger or normal pressure applied).

B. Muskets will be of the three (3) band type, unless used in Living History demonstration and/or approved by the commanding officer.

C. All parts of the weapon must fit properly and tightly.

D. No weapon may field with checks or cracks in any part of the stock.

E. Only black powder may be used in muzzle loading firearms. No smokeless powder should ever be used in these firearms.

F. Pistols must be only carried or used by Officers, NCOs, Artillerymen, and Cavalrymen according to their era regulations.

G. Puffed wheat, cream of wheat, extremely thin slices of cork and peanut butter or other fully combustible materials are allowed as wadding for black powder revolvers. Do not use wax, wool, or “wonder wads”. Anything that does not completely burn within 10 feet of the end of the barrel becomes a projectile.

H. Brass cartridge fed firearms must use either manufacturer’s blanks or reloads made to the manufacturer’s specifications. Smokeless powder can not be used in black powder cartridges.

Blank vs. Live round definition

A blank round or cartridge is defined as a round consisting of a black powder charge and absolutely nothing which could be construed as being a projectile. This could include but not necessarily be limited to staples, wads, etc.

A live round or cartridge is defined as a round consisting of a black powder charge and anything which could be construed as a projectile. This could include but not necessarily be limited to bullets, stones, etc.

Qualification

To qualify to handle arms of any kind, military members of the 2nd Delaware must meet two criteria:

1. Foremost being strict age requirements, as follows:

a. Age 16 - Must have parent’s written consent and demonstrate the ability to handle these firearms safely in training and re-enactment scenarios.

b. Under 16 – Only if accompanied by their legal guardian, have passed the safety test and deemed competent by the commanding officer.

2. The second qualification is a careful review of the individual by the 2nd Delaware leadership. All considerations of age are also subject to the laws of the State or Community in which the unit is reenacting.

Firearms Do’s and Don’ts

In the following list of Do’s and Don’ts. There is no inferred order of precedence.

Don’ts

a. Do not bring real "live" rounds to any re-enactment.

b. Do not smoke around black powder, especially when making rounds.

c. Do not use Wonder wads, staples, tape, etc., when making blanks. They can become dangerous when fired from a gun.

d. Do not carry a tompion beyond camp. Stow it in a safe place for the duration of the event.

e. Do not place your face or hands over the muzzle of your gun. Keep your face and appendages at least 8 inches away from the muzzle.

f. Do not load a pistol from a powder flask in the field. You may reload only with pre-rolled blanks.

g. Do not fire your weapon toward crowds of any kind.

h. Do not ram rounds in battle scenarios. Do not even withdraw your rammer.

i. Do not allow spectators to handle your weapon under any circumstances.

j. Do not bring modern firearms of any kind into a camp or re-enactment.

k. Do not load your weapon unless commanded. If you leave a scenario with your weapon loaded, make absolutely sure to get permission or help before firing.

l. Do not use Gasoline or other petroleum based products when cleaning your firearms or equipment. They are flammable, explosive and toxic.

Do’s

a. If you wish to use filler in your blanks, use tissue or corn meal.

b. Bring blanks only. Leave "show and tell" bullets in camp.

c. Have a clear field of fire of at least 50 feet. Elevate the muzzle. This is especially true when there are "wounded" in front of you. The muzzle blast is deafening. In addition there is the danger of burning embers. Look carefully before firing.

d. Count your tools, before and after cleanup. Except for inspection, do not leave the ramrod in the barrel.

e. Check any borrowed weapon to see if it is loaded. It is your ultimate responsibility!

f. If you fire live rounds from your gun at a range, remember to clean your gun carefully. A lead buildup can occur in the barrel. Use a copper brush when cleaning the barrel. When the musket is fired in a reenactment scenario, the lead "ring" may actually blow out of the gun and can be dangerous.

General Firearms Provisions

All muskets employed by the 2nd Delaware soldiers shall be of the three (3) band type subject to approval and inspection. The frequencies of firearms inspections are to be determined by the Unit Commander, aided by the senior NCO. Prior to purchasing a firearm it would be prudent to consult with the commanding office, senior NCO and the 2nd Delaware safety officer that they may make recommendations to assist in your purchase.

Inspections during an event are the responsibility of the commanding officer. These inspections will insure the safety of our members and those units that we may encounter in the field. The senior NCO will make note of discrepancies, in the interest of rectifying any problems encountered. Inspections will follow period drill format, prudence and safety not withstanding and shall be carried out by 2nd Delaware officers, NCOs and/or Safety Officer. The following are general rules:

1. Bladed weapons are to have sheaths that fully enclose and guard the edge. Scabbards shall be complete with tips in good repair and shall be properly mounted within the belts.

The handling of firearms when under the influence of alcohol or drugs is strictly forbidden.

All firearms must be unloaded subsequent to stacking or storage during or after an event. The senior NCO will, at the direction of the Company Commander, require several caps to be fired to make sure the weapon is unloaded.

Civilians are not authorized to carry a loaded firearm in the 2nd Delaware Camp, under any circumstances. The firearm will NOT be carried out of the camp unless the firearm is required for participation in scripted scenarios at reenactment events and/or living histories. Additionally, 2nd Delaware officers, NCOs and/or Safety Officer will inspect the firearm prior to leaving the company camp area for an event, and the firearm will be secured out of sight in the tent or accommodations at the conclusion of the event.

When a "Cease Fire!" is called for any reason, any and all firing is to stop, immediately! All members of the 2nd Delaware are to scrupulously observe this order. Under no conditions are we to begin firing again unless so ordered by the 2nd Delaware unit commander or senior NCO. "Cease Fire!” like the cry "Medic!" should not be taken lightly. If you have or suspect you have a loaded weapon the following procedure will be used:

Keep the muzzle of your weapon elevated and inform the officer or NCO of your situation. The officer or NCO will collect the men with the loaded firearms and take them to a safe place, away from spectators. After announcing, "Fire in the hole!” and only at the command of the officer or NCO, the men will discharge their firearms at an elevation into the air. This will render the weapon safe for marching and later capping off.

Failure to comply with this stringent safety rule may be cause for expulsion from the battle or exercise. Repeated offense may be reason for summary ejection from the 2nd Delaware.

Failure of musket to fire

If your musket fails to fire for any reason, the following instructions are to be followed. Safety being the major consideration at all times. Keep the muzzle elevated unless instructed otherwise.

If the cap fires but the gun fails to discharge or you are not sure it went off, at the next command to Load do not put more powder down the bore. Pull the hammer back to half cock, take off the old cap and put a new one on the cone. At the next command to Fire if the gun goes off then things are OK. If it fails to discharge then there is a problem. If you are in a formation, do the following:

a. Front rank men let an NCO know you have a problem.

b. Rear rank men will do an About Face (180 degree turn to the right) and let NCO know you are having a problem with your gun.

c. Remember to keep the firearms muzzle elevated, unless you are instructed to do otherwise.

d. Await the NCO, who will assist you.

e. The most common problem is a fouled cone. Take the cone pick or paper clip and run it through the hole in the cone several times.

f. Put a new cap on and get back into your formation or place.

g. If on the next command to Fire, the gun still fails to discharge then go through the front/rear rank instructions. Await the assistance of a NCO.

h. Move back from the line several steps. Turn the gun so the muzzle is several inches off the ground. Slap the stock several times with the flat of your hand. Take notice if any powder comes out of the barrel. If not, then it could be it was never loaded. The gun may have actually fired. In any case, pull the hammer back to half cock and put a new cap on the cone.

i. The NCO will say, "Fire in the hole" and tell you to fire at the ground, if the grass moves; then the problem has been cleared.

j. If the grass does not move there is a problem. The problem will need to be looked at in camp. Keep the muzzle elevated and away from yourself and your pards or pards. If you are in a battle scenario, take a "hit."

KNOW THE PARTS OF YOUR MUSKET

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1. Toe 2. Heel 3. Trigger Guard 4. Trigger 5. Lock 6. Hammer

7. Cone 8. Bolster 9. Breech 10. Muzzle 11. Ramrod 12. Band

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|1861 Springfield Rifle Musket |

INSTRUCTION-The officers, non-commission officers, and soldiers, should be instructed and practiced in the nomenclature of the arms, and the manner of dismounting and mounting them, and the precautions and care required for their preservation. Each soldier should have a screwdriver and a wiper, and each non-commissioned officer a wire tumbler-punch and a spring service. No other implements should be used in taking arms apart, or in setting them up. In the inspection of arms, officers should attend to the qualities essential to service, rather than to a bright polish on the exterior. Arms should be inspected to the quarters at least once a month, with the barrel and lock separated from the stock. Dismounting by a Soldier, -The rifle-musket should be dismounted in the following order, viz: 1st. Unfix the bayonet; 2d. Insert the tompion; 3d. Draw the ramrod; 4th. Turn out the tang screw; 5th. Take off the lock-to do this put the hammer at half cock and partially unscrew the side screws, then, with a slight tap on the head of each screw with a wooden instrument, loosen the lock from its bed in the stock; turn out the side screws, and remove the lock with the left hand; 6th. Remove the side screws without disturbing the washers; 7th. Take off the bands in order, commencing with the uppermost; 8th. Take out the barrel. In doing this turn the musket horizontally, with the barrel downward, holding it loosely, with the left hand below the rear sight, the right hand grasping the stock by the handle; tap the muzzle on the ground, it necessary to loosen the breach. If an attempt were made to pull the barrel out by the muzzle, it would in case it were wood hound, be liable to split at the head of the stock. The foregoing parts of the rifle-musket are all that should be taken off, or dismounted by the solder.

The breech-screw should be taken out only by an armorer, and never in ordinary cleaning. The mountings, cone and cone seat screw should not be taken off, nor should the lock be taken apart, except by permission of an officer.

To Clean the Barrel. -1st. Stop the vent with a peg of soft wood, or piece of rag or soft leather pressed down be the hammer; pour a gill of warm water into the muzzle; let it stand a short time, to soften the deposit of powder; put a plug of soft wood into the muzzle, and shake the water up and down the barrel; pour it out, and repeat the operation until the water comes out clear; remove the peg from the cone, and stand the barrel, muzzle downwards, to drain for a few moments. 2d. Screw the wiper on the end of the ramrod, and put a piece of dry cloth or tow around it sufficient to prevent it from chafing the grooves of the barrel; wipe the barrel dry, changing the cloth two or three times.3d. Put no oil into the vent, as it will clog the passage, and cause the first primer to misfire; but, with a slightly oiled rag, rub the bore of the barrel and immediately insert the tompion in the muzzle. 4th. After firing, the barrel should always be washed as soon as practicable; when the water comes off clear wipe the barrel dry and pass into it an oiled rag. Fine flour or emery cloth in the best article to clean the exterior of the barrel.

To Clean the Lock. - Wipe every part with a moist rag, and then a dry one; if any part of the interior shows rust, put a drop of oil on the point or end of a piece of soft wood dipped into the flour of emery; rub out the rust and wipe the surface dry; then rub every part with a slightly oiled rag.

To Clean the Mountings. - For iron and steel parts, use fine emery moistened with oil, or emery cloth. For brass parts, use rotten stone moistened with vinegar or water, applied with a rag, brush, or stick; oil or grease should be avoided. The dirt may be removed from screw-holes by screwing a piece of soft wood into them. Wipe all parts with a linen rag, and leave the parts slightly oiled.

Dismounting by an Armorer. -The parts which are specially assigned to be dismounted by an experienced armorer will stated in their regular order, following No. 8, viz: 9th. Unscrew cone; 10th, take out cone seat screw; 11th, remove band-springs using wire punch; 12th, take out the guard screws. Be careful that the screwdriver does not slip, and mar the stock. 13th, remove the guard without injuring the wood at either end of the plate; 14th, remove the side-screw washers with a drift-punch; 15th, remove the butt-plate; 16th, remove the rear sight; 17th, turn out the breech screw. No other wrench should ever be used for this purpose, and the barrel should be held in clamps, neatly fitting the breech Lock.

To take the lock apart: 1st. Cock the piece, and apply the spring-piece to the mainspring; give the thumbscrew a turn sufficient to liberate the spring from the swivel and mainspring notch; remove the spring; 2d. The sear-spring screw; 3d. The sear-screw and sear. 4th. The bridle screw and bridle. 5th. The tumbler-screw; 6th. The tumbler-this is driven out with a punch, inserted in the screw hole, which at the same time liberates the hammer. 7th. Detach the main ring swivel from the tumbler with a drift-punch; 8th. Take out the feed finger and spring; 9th the catch-spring and screw.

As a general rule, all parts of the musket are assembled in the inverse order in which them are dismounted. Before replacing screws, oil them slightly with a good sperm oil, (inferior oil is converted into a gum which clogs the operation of the parts) Screws should not be turned in so hard as to make the parts bind. When a lock has from any cause become gummed with oil and dirt, it may be cleaned by boiling in soapsuds or in pearl ash or soda water; heat should never be applied in any other way.

Precautions in Using. - On ordering arms on parade, let the butt be brought gently to the ground, especially if the ground be hard. This will save the mechanism of the lock from shocks, which are very injurious to it and which tend to loosen and mar the screws and spoilt the woodwork. The ramrod should not be "sprung" with unnecessary force, for fear of injuring the corners of the grooves; and, in stacking arms, care should be taken not injure the bayonets by forcibly training the edges against each other. No cutting, marking, or scraping the wood or iron should be allowed; and no part of the gun should be touched with a file. Take every possible care to prevent wear from getting between the lock or barrel, and stock. If any should get there, dismount the gun as soon as possible, clean and oil the parts as directed, and see that they are perfectly dry assembling them.

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Gun Powder

A. No loose powder shall be allowed in camp. All powder must be in pre-rolled cartridges.

B. All powder must be stored in spark resistant, fire proof containers. (Military ammo cans lined with cardboard are acceptable.)

C. Powder must not be stored in plastic containers.

D. Care must be taken with powder around fires or possible sparks. — Stay away from fire pits and cigarettes, pipes, cigars, etc.

E. Powder shall be stored at least twenty-five (25) feet away from any fire pit.

F. No powder will be allowed in powder horns at any time.

G. No loading of firearms using a powder horn will be allowed — no exception

Safety while making blanks

The first thing you must consider is the fact that you will have to buy, store and handle a quantity of black gunpowder. Black powder is an explosive and inherently dangerous. Further you should consider these facts very carefully if you have children. If the powder is stored and handled safely, you can minimize the hazards. You should also check with your local police and/or fire authorities concerning local ordinances regarding black powder. This is not an effort to deter you from making your own blanks. It is however, an effort to acquaint you with the problems. This is especially true if you have never handled black powder before.

UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCES SHOULD SMOKELESS POWDER BE USED FOR MAKING BLANKS.

The use of Pyrodex and black powder substitutes is not allowed.

Develop safe handling habits. Several that come to mind are:

a. NEVER smoke near or around exposed black powder!

b. NEVER use a charge greater than 60-65 grains of FF black powder when making musket blanks or 25 grains for pistol blanks.

c. Do not store percussion caps and black powder in the same place.

d. Lock up your powder and caps in separate locations. A dry, cool place is preferred.

e. Avoid sparks of any kind, heat, friction and static electricity. Do not use a vacuum cleaner for clean-up. A damp rag is best.

f. Handle percussion caps very carefully as they are explosive and may be set-off by any number of circumstances.

When rolling blanks do not use staples, tape, etc. to hold the tubes together. When the blank is fired this material can become dangerous. If properly made, like originals, you do not need them.

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Firearms Safety Rules

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