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 Running heading: LUXURY DEFINE IN DIFFERENT TIME PERIOD1 Luxury Define In Different Time Period Midterm PaperMiranda Hiralall New York City College of TechnologyLUXURY DEFINE IN DIFFERENT TIME PERIOD 2AbstractIn this paper I will be talking about the gradual change of the luxury market in different time period which played a big role in the fashion industry. Starting from the 18th century I will be providing information on the opulence of the rococo period and how it influences the luxury market. Then I will move on to Christian Lacroix who is known as a maximalist designer which emphasis on his design. His luxury reflected in the 80s by his garments. He was known for his exaggerated sleeves and unique layers to his clothing. He used a lot of asymmetrical design and vibrant color. Moving on to the end of the paper I explain more about the modern luxury in the present day. In the modern day of luxury it is not about labels anymore. We all want the designer that no one has in their collection. Zuhair Murad is used as a good example of this. LUXURY DEFINE IN DIFFERENT TIME PERIOD 3IntroductionIn a luxurious world, the first thing in mind is materialistic things. We never realize the elements that is needed for a wealthy status. It can all come from small details in clothing or it can all come from our knowledge of information that we can preserve. In this paper I will be discussing the styles of rococo and Lacroix. I will also involve a modern fashion designer Murad and the definition of luxury. But overall my paper will show the different meaning to the luxury market.Opulence During the Rococo periodIn the 18 century, there was a significant change in the culture. The change in the culture was known as the rococo style (Baroque/Rococo 1650-1800, n.d.). In this article Christopher, M. (n.d.) stated “It was a movement of elegance and refinement, characterized by pastel colors, organic motifs, and light but plentiful ornamentation.” This was the time period of color versus drawing. The rococo style help to emphasis a change of an artistic movement. The rococo design style of luxury has extreme ornamentation (Christopher, M, n.d.). This opulence during this time period was known as the happy style because it involves more light and soft colors to express in the designs (Shovava, & Comma. 2018). “This new style is characterized by its asymmetry, graceful curves, elegance, and the delightful new paintings of daily life and courtly love, which decorated the walls within these spaces” (Trapasso, E. 2015). Until the French Revolution, the rococo style started to reflect in the fashion industry. It started to make changes on the embroidery technique, shapes of the garments and fabrics in the garments.LUXURY DEFINE IN DIFFERENT TIME PERIOD4Rococo Style in FashionRococo style in the fashion industry was a reflection of their lifestyle. At this time period it empowered wealth and beauty. It was the way to show your social status through your clothing. The rise of the new clothing change in the fashion industry started to help the French fashion to reach a new level of consumption (Photoaisa, V., & Fotostock. 2017). It started to help the luxury market. Women's clothing started to transition with its form and embellishments (Rococo. (n.d.)). The clothing started to become much lose but still carried a form of a corset and hoop skirt. Silk was the most use fabric during this time period (Photoaisa, V., & Fotostock. 2017). It created this rich texture in the clothing. The embroidery on the silk was used with lace. Another style presented in the fabric was known as orientalism. Orientalism use in the fabric help to create an exoctic look of assymterical patterns and designs (Mears,P. (n.d.)). It was strictly made only for haute couture. This style was only provided for the wealthy upper class consumers. Known figures such as Louis XV’s mistress Madame Pompadour and Marie Antoinette has embrace this style during this time (Mills, I. C., & Wharton Group. (n.d.)). Rococo Style change of Silhouette The change of silhouette has constructed the body form. The women silhouette consist of a tight corset with a cinched waistline and a pannier skirt Rococo Fashion Of Women In 1750-1775. 2019). The pannier skirt expanded the width of the skirt (Origjanska, M. 2018). The width of the skirt was the symbol of the women's social class. It had flare sleeves from the shoulder to the elbow with lace or ribbons (Origjanska, M. 2018). Than from the 1860s to the 1880s their was LUXURY DEFINE IN DIFFERENT TIME PERIOD 5bustle style added to the silhouettes. Bustle style is created in the back of the garment, by the waistline and below where their is fabric folded to create a bigger back of the gown (Monet, D. 2019) . In the men's silhouette it was much simpler. They have three piece set which are the coat, waistcoat and breeches. Each of the men garments are embellished with vibrant colors and patterns (Mills, I. C., & Wharton Group. (n.d.)). The waistcoat consist of cuffs and pleats symmetrically. Rococo Style of Silhouette in Women and MenRococo style has made a change of silhouette in women and men garments. “Robe à la fran?aise” is one of the women silhouettes that made a change in history (The Kyoto Costume Institute.(n.d.)). The gown “Robe à la fran?aise” fabric is made with the richest fabric like silk (Rococo. (n.d.)). It was mostly worn by wealthy women. This gown is fully embroidered with lace and flowers. It consist of 3 pieces to the garment which was the mantle, jube and the triangle shape stomacher (Robe à La Fran?aise.2017). The front of the garment creates a tighter form with a deep neckline. As the time period goes by the waistline becomes much wider. It was a symbol of the social status. The men change of silhouette wore several variations. It was known as the Habit à la fran?aise which was a men formal suit (Westover, A. (n.d.)). The men formal suit consist of coat, vest or waistcoat, and breeches (The Kyoto Costume Institute.(n.d.)). It was also made out of silk. This was also embroidered with floral prints.LUXURY DEFINE IN DIFFERENT TIME PERIOD 6Sumptuary Laws in the Rococo periodAfter the rise of the fashion clothing it reflected in the luxury market. The clothing was an identification on the social status and created a great income for the French hierarchy. In the luxury market it started to backlash. A law known as the sumptuary law was developed (Rococo Fashion Of Women In 1750-1775. 2019). Scumplutory law was known to “focused on what people could and could not wear—limiting the use of fine fabrics, adornments, or even the kinds of necklines that could be worn, with a particular focus on extravagance” (MacDonald, J. 2017). It helps to identify the social class in order. Elaborate maximalist fashion of Lacroix who epitomized the 1980sAs seen in the rococo period, a maximalist fashion designer known by Christian Lacroix has used similar elements that epitomized the 1980s. He used a lot of vibrant colors and changed up the silhouette in his garments (Erinn, L. 2017). He created this silhouette called the puff ball skirt (Bernstein, J. 2013). He would use the puff ball skirt in different lengths and colors (Erinn, L. 2017). Lacroix was known to exaggerate on his garments (Borrelli, L. 2019). Many of his garments consist of ruffles . He would ideally used mix and match fabrics in his design (Erinn, L. 2017). The colors would usually be bright and vibrant (Bernstein, J. 2013). Lacroix was known for the 80s style ((Borrelli, L. 2019). He created a new era in fashion.LUXURY DEFINE IN DIFFERENT TIME PERIOD 7Lacroix fall out in the fashion industryLacroix focus in his work eventually lead him to failing of making profit (Davies, L. 2009). In the process of making his clothes he produces these expensive clothing where no consumers did not care to wear (Colchester, M. 2009). It was costing him more to make his garments and had no profit to back it up (Odell, A. 2009). Davies, L stated in this article “Industry observers have blamed Lacroix's decline on his inability to translate his artistic verve into financial profit.” Lacroix did not only get bankrupt but he degraded his character in the fashion industry (Colchester, M. 2009). He incurred a lifetime loss of 150 million dollars (Odell, A. 2009).Describe the difference in luxury both time period During this time period of rococo style and the Lacroix style they both define luxury in a different way. In the rococo period, the styling of its artistic skills show the standard of class in the wealth of the clothing (Rococo Art Movement, (n.d.)). The ornamentation and embellishments added to clothing showed the luxury of class (Trapasso, E. 2015). The elaboration on asymmetrical values and pastel colors help to influence this elegant and rich look (Westover, A. (n.d.)). The use of luxurious fabrics like silk embroidered with chiffon help to establish a figure of the wealthy class (Shovava, & Comma. 2018). This all builds up to the luxurious time of rococo styling. Luxury was the way to be identified. The difference with the luxury of Lacroix style was based on his exaggeration on his dresses (Bernstein, J. 2013). He created this new look in the fashion era that everyone was fascinated with (Borrelli, L. 2019). His luxury was built on his skill of design. The way he mixes his colors and patterns embody the french haute couture LUXURY DEFINE IN DIFFERENT TIME PERIOD 8 Lacroix perception on cultural influence played a role in his clothing (Erinn, Larsen. 2017). He included culture so he can make a connection to consumers Define LuxuryLuxury was once defined by wealth but based on our society today it is based on how we move. According to this article Powell, L., Skift, Nagy, C., & Skift stated “The concept of luxury is changing exponentially today because our societal and cultural norms and expectations are changing more quickly than in the past” (Christopher, M. (n.d.)). Luxury is now being reshaped by the consumer behavior (Bain, M. 2018). It is all adapting to the standard of living. The biggest generation that affects the society in the modern world is millennials. This involved a lot of sustainability use. According to this article Banks, 2018 stated “Some companies are turning luxury waste into a business opportunity. The growth of luxury resale has been one of the biggest shifts in the industry in recent years.” So majority of luxury is not based on the wealth anymore it is based on sustainability where you can make the product last longer (Bain, M. 2018).Luxury isn’t based on labels anymore it is based on the value. Wealthy people today wants things that do not have any design but rather the simplicity of the product. Zuhair MuradIn addition to luxury in the modern world Zuhair Murhas is a fashion designer that has built his company successfully. He has made his presence internationally (Zuhair Murad: Fashion Designer Biography, (n.d.)). He is most known for his looks on the red carpet (The Rise and Rise of Zuhair Murad. (2018)). In his garments he does not create labels. This help his fashion keep LUXURY DEFINE IN DIFFERENT TIME PERIOD 9exclusive. He carries four product lines which are Haute Couture, Ready-to-Wear, Bridal and Accessories. In his company he knows how to keep the flow through his vision (The Rise and Rise of Zuhair Murad. (2018)).How doe the designer lend himself to inconspicuous consumption?As a designer, inconspicuous consumption is aspirational class in the luxury market (Inconspicuous Consumption, n.d.). Inconspicuous consumption is all about exclusivity. Keeping all of your advertisement at a minimum in haute couture helps consumers want, what no one has in the market (Wu, Z., Luo, J., Schroeder, J. E., & Borgerson, J. L. (n.d.)). In the modern day of luxury their is many designers who are not promoting because they want to be exclusive. The outcome of this help the designer and consumer stay unique from the rest of the designer.ConclusionAs you can see luxury has been a continuous change from each time period. Luxury continuously started to change its influence in the fashion industry. From corsets to the bright vibrant colors it shows it important use of fabric. It helps to identify social class and symmetry in the garments. To conclude fashion plays a big role in the luxury market and the idea of staying exclusive can keep your popularity.LUXURY DEFINE IN DIFFERENT TIME PERIOD 10Reference:Baroque/Rococo 1650-1800. (n.d.). Retrieved from , J. (2013, April 19). When a Pouf Skirt Said It All. Retrieved from . (n.d.). Boundless Art History. Retrieved from , L. (2019, March 13). Talking With @fkachristianlacroix, aka the Real Christian Lacroix, About Instagram and the 1980s. Retrieved from , M. (2018, August 2). Nobody knows what luxury is anymore. Retrieved from , L. (2018, December 11). Culture - What does luxury mean now? Retrieved from , M. (n.d.). Retrieved from DEFINE IN DIFFERENT TIME PERIOD 11Colchester, M. (2009, August 3). The Fall of Christian Lacroix. Retrieved from , L. (2009, December 1). End of a fairytale: Christian Lacroix fashion house to strip down. Retrieved from , J. (2018, January 29). Zuhair Murad has been criticised for cultural appropriation. Retrieved from , Larsen. (2017, June 1). Christian Lacroix. Retrieved from Consumption. (n.d.). Retrieved from , J. (2017, April 20). 6 Times Sumptuary Laws Told People What To Wear. Retrieved from . (n.d.). Definition of Orientalism. Retrieved from DEFINE IN DIFFERENT TIME PERIOD 12Mills, I. C., & Wharton Group. (n.d.). Retrieved from , D. (2019, November 18). The Bustle Era: Women's Fashions of the 1870s and 1880s. Retrieved from , A. (2009, July 8). How the House of Christian Lacroix Fell Down. Retrieved from , M. (2018, February 13). Pannier: The 18th century wide-hoop undergarment that made it challenging for aristocratic women to fit through doors. Retrieved from , V., & Fotostock, (2017, March 28). Marie-Antoinette's Style Revolution. Retrieved from , L., Skift, Nagy, C., & Skift. (2018, January 29). The Definition of Luxury Is Being Reshaped by Changing Consumer Behavior. Retrieved from DEFINE IN DIFFERENT TIME PERIOD 13Robe à La Fran?aise. (2017, December 27). Retrieved from Art Movement. (n.d.). Retrieved from Fashion Of Women In 1750-1775. (2019, April 21). Retrieved from . (n.d.). Retrieved from , & Comma. (2018, April 27). Celebrate the Elegance and Exuberance of French Rococo Art. Retrieved from Kyoto Costume Institute - Google Arts & Culture. (n.d.). Retrieved from Rise and Rise of Zuhair Murad. (2018, January 7). Retrieved from DEFINE IN DIFFERENT TIME PERIOD 14Trapasso, E. (2015, March 10). A Brief History of Rococo Art. Retrieved from , A. (n.d.). Rococo. Retrieved from , Z., Luo, J., Schroeder, J. E., & Borgerson, J. L. (n.d.). Forms of inconspicuous consumption: What drives inconspicuous luxury consumption in China?. Retrieved from Murad: Fashion Designer Biography. (n.d.). Retrieved from . ................
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