DIY CNC Router Plans

[Pages:47]Without Detail Drawings DIY CNC Router Plans

Rev 03

December 31, 2017

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DIY CNC Wood Router Plans

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These plans are based on the second DIY CNC Router that I made. I made every effort to ensure the measurements are accurate, however, I strongly recommend you verify everything before you start cutting! These plans are provided "as is", with no warranty or guarantee. Building your own 3-Axis CNC router is both fun and educational. These plans document all the steps I followed to make my DIY CNC Router. This is the second DIY CNC Router I made, after learning a lot from building the first version. This is a very good router that can be built at a reasonable price using readily available materials. This design uses DIY linear bearings, threaded rod and plywood (or MDF) construction. No fancy materials, no expensive drive screws. This is a hobby router project. It is a router designed to route wood, plastic and some aluminum. It is a low-cost, decent quality system that will teach you all you need to know about 3-axis routing. If you take care during cutting and assembly, you can achieve very good accuracy. I also use mine to do printed circuit board isolation routing, and I can do surface-mount ICs with 50mil (.050") pitch. Not bad at all! I'm proud to report that over 1,000 copies of these plans have been downloaded.

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Table of contents

Discussion Forum.................................................................................................... 4 My Machine in Action .............................................................................................. 4 Material Selection .................................................................................................... 4 Other things to consider........................................................................................... 6 Cutting Diagram....................................................................................................... 8 Parts List ................................................................................................................. 9 The Base ............................................................................................................... 10 The Cross-Dowel Jig ............................................................................................. 15 The drive nut and anti-backlash assembly ............................................................. 18 Linear Bearings ..................................................................................................... 21 The X-Axis............................................................................................................. 23 The Y-Axis............................................................................................................. 25 Stepper Motor Mounting ........................................................................................ 30 Electronics............................................................................................................. 32 Limit Switches ....................................................................................................... 34 Stepper Motor Wiring............................................................................................. 36 Cable Management ............................................................................................... 40 Wiring the electronics ............................................................................................ 43 Glossary ................................................................................................................ 44 Change Log........................................................................................................... 46 Drawings ............................................................................................................... 47

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Discussion Forum

If you have questions or suggestions regarding these plans, please post to the HobbyCNC DIY CNC Router Plans forum (forums/forum/diy-cnc-router-plans/). By using the forum you can enhance the community by sharing your questions, answers and your build progress. I'd love to post photos of your build on my HobbyCNC Customer Builds page (customer-builds/) ? send photos to brian@ or post your photos to the forum.

My Machine in Action

If you want to see my build actually doing something, I made a short video (1 min, 34 sec) of it machining some HobbyCNC PRO heat sinks. Vimeo Heatsink Video (166901487).

Material Selection

Preferred: High quality, furniture-grade plywood. Both good looking and strong. OK: MDF (Medium Density Fiberboard) Not good: Particle Board, `regular old plywood'

This DIY CNC Router is made out of wood. I would strongly recommend high quality, furniture-grade plywood. It is both good looking and strong.

The other option is MDF (Medium Density Fiberboard). Not recommended is Particle Board or "regular old plywood".

? Furniture Grade Plywood is constructed with many fine layers of alternating grain. It is typically free of voids and is surfaced with a clean veneer that looks great when finished. It is also damn strong and resists bending well.

? MDF is made of very fine, evenly distributed material. It is heavy and dimensionally stable. It is easy to cut (but can dull blades quickly). It's mortal enemy is water. My first build was with MDF & scrap plywood. It worked well and was perfect for experimenting. Build number 2 was with a high-quality furniture grade plywood.

? Regular old plywood. I found local home-store type plywood to be too full of voids and imperfections to be worthwhile.

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DIY CNC Wood Router Plans

? Particle board can easily be identified by the very coarse and uneven density. It is cheap and not strong. Do not go there.

My first build (with MDF and scrap plywood) worked OK (it just wasn't square) and was perfect for experimenting. Build number 2 was with a high-quality furniture grade plywood.

I've also been told that there is a "High Density Fiberboard", but I have no experience with it. Sounds like it should work well too.

Hardboard, also called high-density fiberboard (HDF), is a type of fiberboard, which is an engineered wood product.

It is similar to particle board and medium-density fiberboard, but is denser and much stronger and harder because it is made out of exploded wood fibers that have been highly compressed. Consequently, the density of hardboard is 31 lbs or more per cubic foot (500 kg/m?)[2] and is usually about 50-65 lbs per cubic foot (800?1040 kg/m?). It differs from particle board in that the bonding of the wood fibers requires no additional materials, although resin is often added.

Retrieved from , Dec 2018

Size

My build is 24 x 36 inches. I'm not confident to go any larger as wood does flex under load.

Attention to detail

It is critical that all cuts are as perfectly square as you can make them. I was in a hurry for my first build and the problem became evident when I milled "mirror opposite" parts that did not line up to each other after milling! D'oh!

Straight, true, accurate cuts during assembly are very important to ensure a great quality outcome!

Holding it all together - Barrel (or Cross Dowel) Nuts

Using a jig is highly recommended. Instructions for creating the jig are on page 15

Figure 1 - Barrel or Cross Dowel nut

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Other things to consider

CNC Router storage ? think about this when you are sizing your machine. Bigger is cool, and you can fit more and larger `stuff' into it, but you have to store the thing when you are not using it. And when you are using it, you need space to get around it (mine is on wheels, and on a dedicated cabinet).

Tooling Storage - You will also likely end up with associated tools, tooling, spindles, clamps, wrenches, dial gauges, and on and on. Plan on a lot more `stuff' than you initially think. Plan to have some dedicated space near (or in my case, under) the machine for ready access during setup and for tool changes.

Noise ? they are pretty quiet ? until you start the spindle, and louder yet when the tool hits the work piece. Have a good set of ear and eye protection handy AND USE IT.

Dust / Mess ? if you are routing wood, these things generate a LOT of sawdust. And it gets EVERYWHERE (this is the primary reason I don't recommend laptops in the shop!). Consider a dust removal system (not discussed in this document). Machining MDF sends A LOT of fine dust into the air. I can't imagine any of it is good for your lungs. If you are going to mill in a small space or with poor ventilation and without any type of dust extraction, wear a dust mask.

Smell ? If you are engraving metals and use a coolant or lubricant ? some of them really smell. Multiply that by 100 if you use a mist-type system.

Clamping ? nothing is more frustrating than the work piece moving in the middle of a run. I have come to learn that clamping is an art form. This is why I suggest "T tracks" in the bed of the router table. This allows use of inexpensive woodworking clamps ? or make-your-own clamps. One can never have too many clamps.

Leveling the work piece ? I did not realize how critical it is to use a dial

gauge and level your work piece or base before you start. Especially

engraving or milling PC boards ? a few thousandths makes a big

difference. Figure 2 shows a Harbor Freight part ? under $20. It is

mandatory in my opinion. For milling PC Boards, (which have a naturally wavy surface, I have

Figure 2 - 1 inch Travel Machinist's Dial Indicator (Harbor Freight)

used leveling software with very good success.

Two of my most interesting learning experiences were:

? the importance (and difficulty) of leveling your work piece ? clamping the work piece ? clamps must be firm, plentiful and out of the way of

the tool and any moving parts.

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Learning the software ? you have at least two (and possibly three) bits of software to get competent with:

CAD ? somehow, somewhere, you need to design what you are going to machine. You can use Google Sketchup for some tasks. It is free and probably the easiest to learn. There is ProE and Autocad and other high-end, parametric CAD software, that is super-powerful (and quite expensive). And there is a huge array in-between.

I have started using Autodesk Fusion 360. It is a full-function, parametric-driven CAD software and it is free to makers, students and small business with annual revenue under $100k. It is an amazing product that supports g-code creation and 3D printing.

The free Start-Up/ Enthusiast licenses allow you to access Fusion 360 Ultimate with a yearly subscription after the trial period has ended. You can use this license if you are a small business making less than $100,000 per year (or equivalent), or if you're a hobbyist using Fusion 360 for non-commercial purposes. Retrieved from: , Dec 2018

CAM: G-Code Creation ? this can be built-in to the CAD software (like Fusion 360), or it can be a separate software (I use CamBam). This is where you decide which tools to cut with (shape, length, diameter), how fast, how deep each pass is, whether the tool cuts "inside" or "outside" the line, create holding tabs, define the order of operations, types of operations (e.g. drill, pocket, engrave).

CAM: Machine Control? this is the software that actually drives the stepper motors. It takes the G-Code from the previous step and converts it into the proper movement of the three axis. Some common CAM software is LinuxCNC (free), BobCAD, Mach3.

Cost ? The HobbyCNC board, stepper motors can be as little as $150 USD (HobbyCNC EZ + 3 130oz-in stepper motors) or the HobbyCNC PRO 3-axis & 3 305oz-in for $220 USD (Check the HobbyCNC website for current pricing). A 32V 10A DC power supply will be around $75 to $100 USD (a regulated switching supply works fine too). Other materials (and this is a guess) would be around $300 USD. This would be for the CNC Router only, no dust control, no noise control, no cabinet, no spindle, no tools/bits. I'd budget $6-800 USD ? again I did not cost-out the BOM, this is just a SWAG1.

Cheap Import Electronics ? My daddy use to say "the lowest price is not always the best value". Caveat Emptor.

Time ? it takes time to build the machine. And time to learn all the associated software.

Fun ? it is super-rewarding to see the sawdust fly and your design come into reality. You will be called a Geek by all your friends. Wear it with pride.

Safety ? these tools have a lot of power, and, although generally well-behaved, they can do some unexpected things. Be safe, wear hearing and eye protection, as well as a mask if there is dust, and keep your hands away from pinch points (there are many of them).

1 Scientific Wild-Assed Guess

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Cutting Diagram

Drawing 1001 All the parts for this machine can be cut from a single sheet of ?" stock. I've prepared a cutting guide. I've laid-out the parts such that the sheet can be cut into six sections for easier handling.

Important notes when cutting components

? Take your time and ensure everything is P E R F E C T Y square. If not, you will route parallelograms instead of squares!

? When cutting identical parts, make sure to set-up your saw one time and make all the cuts. It is most important that related parts are the same size

A 1/8" Kerf is assumed for this drawing. Adjust for your blade width. Cut parts a little oversize and finish-trim to the precise dimensions.

Figure 3 - Drawing 1001 Cutting Guide DIY Router Plans, HobbyCNC, Rev03

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