Introduction:
Guidelines for Vermicompost MakingTraining manual at farm and household levelGuidelines (paper) for vermicompost making to serve as training manual at farm and household level based on the experience gained in Egypt with Eisenia fetida earthworm used to convert organic material into a rich lombri-compost. (Recycling of farm, household waste and agriculture by-products into a high quality organic fertilizer; description of the methodologies, infrastructure and supplies needed at farm and household level).2014CLOA-FAOIn terms of the AGREEMENT between the Food and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations (FAO) and The Central Laboratory for Organic Agriculture(CLOA) . Giza, Egypt1/1/2014Table of Contents TOC \o "1-3" \h \z \u 1.Introduction: PAGEREF _Toc384893530 \h 6Chapter I Vermiculture and Vermicompost PAGEREF _Toc384893531 \h 71.1The Difference between Composting and Vermicomposting PAGEREF _Toc384893532 \h 71.2. Three main advantages of vermiculture and vermicomposting: PAGEREF _Toc384893533 \h 81.3. How does it work : PAGEREF _Toc384893534 \h 82.Definitions: PAGEREF _Toc384893536 \h 92.1.Vermiculture PAGEREF _Toc384893537 \h 92.2.Vermicomposting PAGEREF _Toc384893538 \h 92.3.Vermitechnology PAGEREF _Toc384893539 \h 92.4.Vermicast PAGEREF _Toc384893540 \h 93.Types and nature of earthworms PAGEREF _Toc384893541 \h 103.1. Three Types of Earthworm PAGEREF _Toc384893542 \h 104. Earthworm Lifecycle PAGEREF _Toc384893543 \h 114.1.Egg Appearance and Hatching PAGEREF _Toc384893546 \h 114.2.Red Wiggler Worms Juvenile Stage PAGEREF _Toc384893547 \h 124.3.Red Wiggler Worms Mature Stage PAGEREF _Toc384893548 \h 124.4.Red Wiggler worms' Mating Stage PAGEREF _Toc384893549 \h 125.Red Wiggler Worms' Other Characteristics and Traits PAGEREF _Toc384893550 \h 125.1.Charechteristics PAGEREF _Toc384893551 \h 125.2. Worm Biology PAGEREF _Toc384893552 \h 135.3. Digestive system PAGEREF _Toc384893553 \h 135.4. Excretory system PAGEREF _Toc384893554 \h 145.5 Respiration PAGEREF _Toc384893555 \h 145.6. Reproduction PAGEREF _Toc384893556 \h 145.8. Locomotion and importance to soil PAGEREF _Toc384893557 \h 155.9. Ecology PAGEREF _Toc384893558 \h 156.Benefits PAGEREF _Toc384893559 \h 166.1. Biological PAGEREF _Toc384893560 \h 166.2. Chemical: PAGEREF _Toc384893561 \h 166.3 Physical PAGEREF _Toc384893562 \h 166.4. Improved crop growth and yield PAGEREF _Toc384893563 \h 176.5. Other benefits: PAGEREF _Toc384893564 \h 176.6. Source of plant nutrients: PAGEREF _Toc384893565 \h 176.7. Role in nitrogen cycle PAGEREF _Toc384893566 \h 186.8. Reduction in soil C:N ratio PAGEREF _Toc384893567 \h 18Chapter II Vermicomposting of agricultural wastes Management PAGEREF _Toc384893568 \h 19Seven basic principles of vermiculture and vermicomposting to survive and multiply PAGEREF _Toc384893569 \h 191.1. Worm Management requirements PAGEREF _Toc384893570 \h 191.1.1. Bedding PAGEREF _Toc384893571 \h 191.1.2. Worm Food PAGEREF _Toc384893572 \h 21Table 3. Advantages and disadvantages of different types of feed. PAGEREF _Toc384893573 \h 211.1.3. Moisture PAGEREF _Toc384893574 \h 231.1.4. Aeration PAGEREF _Toc384893575 \h 241.1.5. Temperature control PAGEREF _Toc384893576 \h 251.1.5.1. Low temperatures PAGEREF _Toc384893577 \h 251.1.5.2. Effects of freezing PAGEREF _Toc384893578 \h 251.1.5.3. High temperatures PAGEREF _Toc384893579 \h 251.1.5.4. Worms' response to temperature differentials. PAGEREF _Toc384893580 \h 251.1.6. Suitable pH Levels: PAGEREF _Toc384893581 \h 261.1.7. Sufficient space PAGEREF _Toc384893582 \h 262. Methods of vermicomposting PAGEREF _Toc384893583 \h 272.1. Pits below the ground PAGEREF _Toc384893584 \h 272.2. Heaping above the ground PAGEREF _Toc384893585 \h 272.3. Tanks above the ground PAGEREF _Toc384893586 \h 282.4. Modified tanks above the ground PAGEREF _Toc384893587 \h 282.5. Container System PAGEREF _Toc384893588 \h 292.6. Continuous flow system PAGEREF _Toc384893589 \h 292.7. Cement rings PAGEREF _Toc384893590 \h 292.8. Commercial model PAGEREF _Toc384893591 \h 293. Harvesting PAGEREF _Toc384893592 \h 304. Technologies PAGEREF _Toc384893593 \h 314.1 Vermicomposting in Technologies PAGEREF _Toc384893594 \h 324.2. Technologies for propagation PAGEREF _Toc384893595 \h 335. Vermicompost teas PAGEREF _Toc384893596 \h 346. Worm meal PAGEREF _Toc384893597 \h 357. Earthworms, the sustainable aquaculture feed of the future PAGEREF _Toc384893598 \h 368. Guidelines for vermicompost making PAGEREF _Toc384893599 \h 378.1. Getting started PAGEREF _Toc384893600 \h 378.2. Choosing a location PAGEREF _Toc384893601 \h 388.3. Moving the bin PAGEREF _Toc384893602 \h 388.4. What to feed your worms PAGEREF _Toc384893603 \h 38Likes PAGEREF _Toc384893604 \h 39Dislikes PAGEREF _Toc384893605 \h 398.5. How much to feed worms PAGEREF _Toc384893606 \h 398.6. Breeder Barrel Bins PAGEREF _Toc384893607 \h 408.7. Starting a breeder bin PAGEREF _Toc384893608 \h 418.8. Watering, turning and feeding PAGEREF _Toc384893609 \h 418.9. Splitting the bins: PAGEREF _Toc384893610 \h 428.10. Flow Through Reactors PAGEREF _Toc384893611 \h 438.11. Watering, turning and feeding: PAGEREF _Toc384893612 \h 438.12. No much liquid produced: PAGEREF _Toc384893613 \h 458.13. Collecting castings: PAGEREF _Toc384893614 \h 45Miscellaneous Bins PAGEREF _Toc384893615 \h 45Table 5. Task Flow Through Bin Weekly Management PAGEREF _Toc384893616 \h 468. 14. Data Entry PAGEREF _Toc384893617 \h 478.15. Feeding Rates: PAGEREF _Toc384893618 \h 478.16. Food Supply and shredding papers: PAGEREF _Toc384893619 \h 47Pest have negative effects, Flies, ants and other insects PAGEREF _Toc384893620 \h 48Ants PAGEREF _Toc384893621 \h 48Fruit flies PAGEREF _Toc384893622 \h 49Maggots PAGEREF _Toc384893623 \h 49Slaters PAGEREF _Toc384893624 \h 49Red spider mites PAGEREF _Toc384893625 \h 49Earwigs PAGEREF _Toc384893626 \h 49White worms PAGEREF _Toc384893627 \h 50Centipedes/Millipedes PAGEREF _Toc384893628 \h 50Cockroaches PAGEREF _Toc384893629 \h 50Fruit flies PAGEREF _Toc384893630 \h 50The level in the bin has dropped PAGEREF _Toc384893631 \h 50Harvesting: PAGEREF _Toc384893632 \h 51How to harvest castings PAGEREF _Toc384893633 \h 51Counting Worms: PAGEREF _Toc384893634 \h 52Building Bins: PAGEREF _Toc384893635 \h 52Breeder Barrel Bins : PAGEREF _Toc384893636 \h 52Flow through Bins : PAGEREF _Toc384893637 \h 53Miscellaneous Bins (landry cart) PAGEREF _Toc384893638 \h 53Covers: PAGEREF _Toc384893639 \h 54Guidelines on how to make a four-tire bin for household: PAGEREF _Toc384893640 \h 55Making a Home for Your Worms PAGEREF _Toc384893641 \h 55Instructions for Getting the most out of your bin PAGEREF _Toc384893642 \h 55Signs of a healthy bin PAGEREF _Toc384893643 \h 56Risk management PAGEREF _Toc384893644 \h 56The bin is rotten and smelly, and no live worms are present PAGEREF _Toc384893645 \h 56The floor was removed too early to harvest castings and contents have fallen out the bottom PAGEREF _Toc384893646 \h 57The bin has fallen over and the contents have fallen out PAGEREF _Toc384893647 \h 57Conclusion PAGEREF _Toc384893648 \h 57Troubleshooting Examples: PAGEREF _Toc384893649 \h 58Examples of weekly management and follow up sheets PAGEREF _Toc384893650 \h 59Introduction: Solid waste management problem in Egypt has been growing tremendously and at an alarming rate through the last decades. Among all solid waste disposal systems, socio-economic and health costs are rarely considered. Its direct and indirect harmful consequences on public health, environment and national economy (particularly as related to manpower productivity and tourism) are becoming quite apparent and acute. Environment is considered one of our main and basic resources, resource recovery saves natural resources, particularly in the form of raw materials and energy, creates employment opportunities that can conflict with environmental and health criteria. On the other hand, The increased use of agro-chemicals have virtually resulted into ‘biological droughts’, severe decline in beneficial soil microbes and earthworms which help to renew the natural fertility of soil. Higher uses of agro-chemicals also demands high use of water for irrigation putting severe stress on ground and surface waters. Biological and agricultural scientists all over the world, after getting utterly disappointed by modern chemical agriculture and towards solving the recently emerged problems of piling up organic and municipals wastes and natural resources tended to get back to the old farmer's friend, the Earthworm. Also the potential of composting to transform on-farm and household wastes into an economical and environmental friendly resource made it an attractive preposition to either farmers that will have the advantage of the recycling opportunity and the community as well which will have all the pros towards the biodiversity, pollution, … etc. A newer branch of biotechnology called ‘Vermiculture Technology’ is emerging by the use of earthworms to solve various environmental problems from waste management to land (soil) improvement. The goal of this manual is to give the farmer and the householder and idea about Vermiculture and Vermicomposting technology and to provide detailed instructions on several aspects of Vermiculture and Vermicompost practices and management using Vermi-technology, Recycling of farm, household waste and agriculture by-products into a high quality organic fertilizer using compost worm; description of the methodologies, infrastructure and supplies needed at farm and household level. The target groups of this project are including field technicians, farmers, school teachers, students and households on vermicompost making and its use for sustainable farm soil and micro-garden fertility management.Chapter I Vermiculture and VermicompostThe Difference between Composting and VermicompostingComposting and vermicomposting are two different processes, The conventional and most traditional method of composting is based on the accelerated bio-oxidation process of the organic matter, it passes through a thermophilic stage (45° to 65°C) where microorganisms liberate heat, carbon dioxide and water. Through this process of pre-treating and managing; organic wastes are recycled into stabilized products that can be applied back to the soil as an odorless and relatively dry source of organic matter. Vermicomposting is a mesophilic process, utilizing microorganisms and earthworms that are active at 10–32°C which is the temperature within the pile of moist organic material. As it is not a thermophilic process, temperature need to be controled to maintain the activity and viability of the worm and the biota diversity or the microbial communities that predominate during active processing (i.e. thermophilic bacteria in composting, mesophilic bacteria and fungi in vermicomposting), as well as the final product biota and quality. Vermicomposting period is longer as compared to other rapid methods and varies between six weeks to twelve weeks, though it brings down the process duration to a good extent as compared to the conventional methods such as the passive composting because the material passes through the earthworm gut, a significant but not yet fully understood transformation takes place, whereby the resulting earthworm castings (worm manure) are rich in microbial activity and plant growth regulators, and fortified with pest repellence attributes as well (Munroe, 2007).Vermicomposts contain nutrients in forms that are readily taken up by the plants such as nitrates, exchangeable phosphorus, and soluble potassium, calcium, and magnesium. Vermicomposts, whether used as soil additives or as components of horticultural media, improved seed germination and enhanced rates of seedling growth and development and the use of worms results in high quality compost (Atiyeh et. al 2002). The process does not require physical turning of the material. To maintain aerobic conditions and limit the temperature rise, the bed or pile of materials needs to be of limited size. Vermicomposts have a much finer structure than composts and contain nutrients in forms that are readily available or plant uptake. (Atiyeh et al., 2000).Earthworms fragment organic waste substrates, stimulate microbial activity greatly and increase rates of mineralization, rapidly converting thewastes into humus-like substances with a finer structure than composts but possessing a greater and more diverse microbial activity (Atiyeh et al. 2000b).1.2. Three main advantages of vermiculture and vermicomposting:1st: Food waste disposal cost reduction and potential for considerable savings.2nd: Poduction of high quality organic fertilizer such as vermicastings (worm manure) that is very valuable and sought after in the organic gardening market and could be used in more than one form such as the solid for or the aqueous solution (tea)3rd: is the production of worms, which is a viable source of income. 1.3. How does it work :The process in the alimentary canal of the earthworm transforms organic waste to natural fertilizer. After digestion, the undigested material moves through the alimentary canal of the earthworm, and in few days if no food available, the worm feeds again on the its wastes and produce the castings, a thin layer of oil is deposited on the castings. This layer erodes over a period of 2 months. The chemical changes that organic wastes undergo include deodorizing and neutralizing. This means that the pH of the castings is 7 (neutral) and the castings are odorless. The worm castings also contain bacteria, so the process is continued in the soil, and microbiological activity is post worm can eat their own body weight per day; thus, for example, one kilogram of worms can consume one kilogram of residues every day. The excreta or “castings” of the worms are rich in nitrate, available forms of phosphorus, potassium, calcium and magnesium. The passage of soil through earthworms promotes bacterial and actinomycetes growth; actinomycetes thrive well in the presence of worms and their content in worm casts is over six times more than in the original soil.The very rich and valuable organic vermicompost produce assists in enriching the soil, especially sandy and newly reclaimed soil, with organic matter and fertilizers in the form of proteins, enzymes, hormones, humus substances, vitamins, sugars, and synergistic compounds, which makes it as productive as good soil, Worms have a number of other possible uses on farms, including value as a high-quality animal feed; Also vermicomposting and vermiculture offer potential to organic farmers as sources of supplemental income.Earthworms through biological processes, are capable of transforming garbage into valuable material and according to the poroduction policy and purpose, If the goal is to produce vermicompost, maximum worm population density needs to be maintained all of the time. If the goal is to produce worms, population density needs to be kept low enough that reproductive rates are optimized. Photo 1. Vermicompost production chart Definitions: Vermiculture is the process of breeding worms. The goal is to continually increase the number of worms in order to obtain a sustainable harvest. The worms are either used to expand a vermicomposting operation or sold to customers who use them for the same or other purposes (On-farm Vermicompost Manual, Glenn Munroe). Vermicomposting It is simply the process of turning organic debris into worm castings, it is a biotechnological process by which worms are used to convert organic materials (usually wastes) into a humus-like material known as vermicompost, certain species of earthworm are used to enhance the process of wastes conversion and produce a better end product. (Medany 2010) Vermitechnology The eco-biotechnological tool to manage organic wastes generated from different sources and involving different and innovative methods in compost production process using compost worm. Vermicast Similarly known as worm castings, worm humus or worm manure, is the end-product of the breakdown of organic matter by a species of earthworm. The castings contain high amounts of nitrogen, potassium, phosphorus, calcium, and magnesium. Castings contain: 5 times the available nitrogen, 7 times the available potash, and 1? times more calcium than found in good topsoil. It has excellent aeration, porosity, structure, drainage, and moisture-holding capacity. Vermicast can hold close to nine times their weight in water. It is a very good fertilizer, growth promoter and helps inducing flowering and fruit-bearing in higher plants. (Venkatesh and Eevera, 2008).Types and nature of earthwormsThere are an estimated 1800 species of earthworm worldwide (Edwards & Lofty, 1972). This manual will focus on just one. Eisenia fetida is commonly known as the “compost worm”, “manure worm”, “redworm”, and “red wiggler”. (On farm vermicompost)3.1. Three Types of EarthwormAnecic (Greek for “out of the earth”) – these are burrowing worms that come to the surface at night to drag food down into their permanent burrows deep within the mineral layers of the soil. Endogeic (Greek for “within the earth”) – these are also burrowing worms but their burrows are typically more shallow and they feed on the organic matter already in the soil, so they come to the surface only rarely. They burrow and cast within soil, creating horizontal burrows in upper 10–30?cm of soil.Epigeic (Greek for “upon the earth”) – leaf litter- or compost-dwelling worms that are non burrowing, live at soil-litter interface, and eat decomposing organic matter. They do not have permanent burrows. e.g. Eisenia fetida.. These “decomposers” are the type of worm used in vermicomposting. Information sourced from Card et al., 2004.The burrowing types Pertima elongata and Pertima asiatica live deep in the soil. On the other hand, the non-burrowing types Eisenia fetida and Eudrilus eugenae live in the upper layer of soil surface. The burrowing types are pale, 20 to 30 cm long and live for 15 years. The non-burrowing types are red or purple and 10 to 15 cm long but their life span is only 28 months. (Nagavallemma 2004)The non-burrowing earthworms eat 10% soil and 90% organic waste materials; these convert the organic waste into vermicompost faster than the burrowing earthworms. They can tolerate temperatures ranging from 0 to 40°C but the regeneration capacity is more at 25 to 30°C and 40–45% moisture level in the pile. The burrowing type of earthworms come onto the soil surface only at night. These make holes in the soil up to a depth of 3.5 m and produce 5.6 kg casts by ingesting 90% soil and 10% organic waste. (Nagavallemma 2004)The ideal environment for the worms is a shallow pit and the right sort of worms are necessary. Lumbricus rubellus (the red worm) and Eisenia foetida are thermo-tolerant and so particularly useful. Field worms Allolobophora caliginosa and night crawlers (Lumbricus terrestris) will attack organic matter from below but the latter do not thrive during active composting, being killed more easily than the others at high temperature.European Night Crawlers (Dendrabaena veneta) or (Eisenia hortensis) are commercially produced as well and have been successfully used in most climates. This night crawler grows to about 4 inches and up to about 8 inches. The African Night crawler (Eudrilus eugeniae), is a large, tropical worm species. It does tolerate heats a bit higher than does E. foetida, provided there is ample humidity, but has a narrow temperature tolerance range.Also Earthworm as the soil engineers could be used during the normal composting process, a moist compost heap of 2.4 m by 1.2 m and 0.6 m high can support a population of more than 50 000 worms. The introduction of worms into a compost heap has been found to mix the materials, aerate the heap and hasten decomposition. Turning the heaps is not necessary if earthworms are present to do the mixing and aeration. Commercially raised worms are usually of the epigeic type. E. fetida is certainly not the only epigeic worm, but it is the one most often used for composting purposes in Northern climates. It can handle a wide temperature range (between 0 and 35 oC) and can actually survive for some time almost completely encased in frozen organic material. 4. Earthworm LifecyclePhoto 2. Worm LifecycleEgg Appearance and Hatching Photo 3. The Coccon 2125345108902536944301281430276098078105Red Wiggler worms' cocoons or egg cases are about the size of a grape seed. The egg case at first is colored and shaped like a little lemon. Red Wiggler composting worms egg case takes an incubation period of about 23 days and by then the egg case had turned its color from golden yellow to brownish red like maroon. The egg case has about 4 to 6 baby Red Wiggler worms developing inside. The ideal temperature from which the Red Wiggler composting worms or Eisenia Foetida egg cases will hatch is 65 - 85 degrees. The baby worms will come out from the egg case at least 3-4 weeks.Red Wiggler Worms Juvenile Stage When baby or juvenile Red Wiggler worms or Eisenia Foetida hatches from their cocoons or egg cases, they are no more than ? inch in length and as thick about 4 human hairs. Baby Red Wiggler worms doesn't have its genital markings yet or the clitellum. Juvenile Red Wigglers that are fresh out from egg cases are already heavy eaters and can already be used as composting worms.Red Wiggler Worms Mature Stage This stage is when a baby Red Wiggler worm composter reaches its sexual maturity which is adulthood. It takes about 40 - 60 days for a baby Red Wiggler to develop into an adult or its breeding stage and develop its genital marking the clitellum. When a mature Red Wiggler composting worms is ready to mate, its clitellum is more developed and prominent. Red Wigglers with orange colored clitellums indicates that they're ready to copulate and is likely that it's finding a partner.Red Wiggler worms' Mating Stage 2992120170180Fig. 5. CouplingThe most interesting part of a Red Wiggler worms' life cycle is its reproduction stage. It is well known that worms in general including Red worms are hermaphroditic- having both male and female reproductive organs. Worms double their activities especially in mating and becomes very sexually active during warmer tolerably temperatures, Red Wiggler composting. Worms mate by joining their clitellums together with their heads pointing straight in opposite directions thus exchanging sperms in the process then separates and heads their own different ways.After copulation and long after the worms separate, both worms will secrete their cocoons or egg cases from their clitellums. Since worms have no maternal instincts, they'll just leave their eggs and go on their separate lives and continue doing. So when you see a couple of worms joined together, they're obviously mating.Red Wiggler Worms' Other Characteristics and Traits CharechteristicsRed Wigglers survive temperature ranges 16° - 28°C (60° - 80°F) and are most active on upper ends of its temperature range. In the summer when it heats up, Red Wiggler composting worms double their foraging activities and are sexually active as well but in the winter or in cold weathers they're more sluggish and their metabolism is very slow as well. The Environmental conditions that the worms hate are hot, well lit, dry, salty and acidic surrounding. Aside from Red Wiggler worms being masters of worm composting in organic gardening, these worms are also a favorite in fishing as fishing worms or baits. They persevere under the warmth of the sun and the best part is that they violently wiggle when threaded on hooks. Red Wiggler worms are classified as Epigeic worms, meaning they are the kind of worms that won't burrow any deeper than 12 inches from the soil's surface.Red Wiggler worms doesn't migrate much as long as there's food in its surroundings and the environment factors are well suited for them. Worms or Red Wiggler composting worms tend to surface when it's raining, some believe that this is so because the worms can't breathe through the muddy flood in their burrows and are forced to pop up the surface. When Red Wigglers feels in danger or threatened, they secrete an irritating slippery substance that some believes that it's a form of its defense mechanism aside from wiggling. Red Wiggler worms may live up to 4 to 5 years but this may be shorter because of stressful raising worms for compost.Importance of vermicompost5.2. Worm BiologyAn earthworm is a tube-shaped, segmented animal commonly found living in soil, that feeds on live and dead organic matter. Its digestive system runs through the length of its body. It conducts respiration through its skin. An earthworm has a double transport system composed of coelomic fluid that moves within the fluid-filled coelom and a simple, closed blood circulatory system. It has a central and a peripheral nervous system. The central nervous system consists of two ganglia above the mouth, one on either side, connected to a nerve cord running back along its length to motor neurons and sensory cells in each segment. Large numbers of chemoreceptors are concentrated near its mouth. Circumferential and longitudinal muscles on the periphery of each segment enable the worm to move. Similar sets of muscles line the gut, and their actions move the digesting food toward the worm's anus.5.3. Digestive systemThe gut of the earthworm is a straight tube which extends from the worm's mouth to its anus. It is differentiated into a buccal cavity (generally running through the first one or two segments of the earthworm), pharynx (running generally about four segments in length), esophagus, crop, gizzard (usually) and intestine.Earthworms inevitably consume the soil microbes during the ingestion of litter and soil. It has been recently estimated that earthworms necessarily have to feed on microbes, particularly fungi for their protein/nitrogen requirement (Ranganathan and Parthasarathi 2000). This may be the reason for the less diversity of fungi and microbial counts seen in the vermicompost collected.Food enters the mouth. The pharynx acts as a suction pump; its muscular walls draw in food. In the pharynx, the pharyngeal glands secrete mucus. Food moves into the esophagus, where calcium (from the blood and ingested from previous meals) is pumped in to maintain proper blood calcium levels in the blood and food pH. From there the food passes into the crop and gizzard. In the gizzard, strong muscular contractions grind the food with the help of mineral particles ingested along with the food. Once through the gizzard, food continues through the intestine for digestion. The intestine secretes pepsin to digest proteins, amylase to digest polysaccharides, cellulase to digest cellulose, and lipase to digest fats. Instead of being coiled like a mammalian intestine, an earthworm's intestine increases surface area to increase nutrient absorption by having many folds running along its length. The intestine has its own pair of muscle layers like the body, but in reverse order—an inner circular layer inside an outer longitudinal layer.5.4. Excretory systemThe excretory system contains a pair of nephridia in every segment, except for the first three and the last ones. The waste in the coelom fluid from a forward segment is drawn in by the beating of cilia of the nephrostome. From there it is carried through the septum (wall) where it forms a series of loops entwined by blood capillaries that also transfer waste into the tubule of the nephrostome. The excretory wastes are then finally discharged through a pore on the worm's side.5.5 RespirationEarthworms have no special respiratory organs. Gases are exchanged through the moist skin and capillaries, where the oxygen is picked up by the hemoglobin dissolved in the blood plasma and carbon dioxide is released. Water, as well as salts, can also be moved through the skin by active transport.5.6. ReproductionMating occurs on the surface, most often at night. Earthworms are hermaphrodites, that is, they have both male and female sexual organs. The sexual organs are located in segments 9 to 15. Earthworms have one or two pairs of testes contained within sacs. The two or four pairs of seminal vesicles produce, store and release the sperm via the male pores. Ovaries and oviducts in segment 13 release eggs via female pores on segment 14, while sperm is expelled from segment 15. One or more pairs of spermathecae are present in segments 9 and 10 (depending on the species) which are internal sacs that receive and store sperm from the other worm during copulation. As a result, segment 15 of one worm exudes sperm into segments 9 and 10 with its storage vesicles of its mate. Some species use external spermatophores for sperm transfer. Copulation and reproduction are separate processes in earthworms. The mating pair overlap front ends ventrally and each exchanges sperm with the other. The clitellum becomes very reddish to pinkish in color. Sometime after copulation, long after the worms have separated, the clitellum (behind the spermathecae) secretes material which forms a ring around the worm. The worm then backs out of the ring, and as it does so, it injects its own eggs and the other worm's sperm into it. As the worm slips out of the ring, the ends of the cocoon seal to form a vaguely lemon-shaped incubator (cocoon) in which the embryonic worms develop. They emerge as small, but fully formed earthworms, but lack their sex structures, which develop in about 60 to 90 days. They attain full size in about one year. Scientists predict that the average lifespan under field conditions is four to eight years; still most garden varieties live only one to two years. 5.7. RegenerationEarthworms have the ability to regenerate lost segments, but this ability varies between species and depends on the extent of the damage. 5.8. Locomotion and importance to soilEarthworms travel underground by the means of waves of muscular contractions which alternately shorten and lengthen the body. The shortened part is anchored to the surrounding soil by tiny claw-like bristles (setae) set along its segmented length. In all the body segments except the first, last and clitellum, there is a ring of S-shaped setae embedded in the epidermal pit of each segment (perichaetine). The whole burrowing process is aided by the secretion of lubricating mucus. Worms can make gurgling noises underground when disturbed as a result of their movement through their lubricated tunnels. They also work as biological "pistons" forcing air through the tunnels as they move. Thus earthworm activity aerates and mixes the soil, and is conducive to mineralization of nutrients and uptake of them by vegetation. 5.9. EcologyEarthworm populations depend on both physical and chemical properties of the soil, such as temperature, moisture, pH, salts, aeration, and texture, as well as available food, and the ability of the species to reproduce and disperse. One of the most important environmental factors is pH, but earthworms vary in their preferences. Most favor neutral to slightly acidic soils. Soil pH may also influence the numbers of worms that go into diapause. The application of chemical fertilizers, sprays, and dusts are believed to have a disastrous effect on earthworm population. Nitrogenous fertilizers tend to create acidic conditions, which are fatal to the worms, and dead specimens are often found on the surface following the application of substances such as DDT, lime sulphur, and lead arsenate. The most reliable way to maintain or increase worm populations in the soil or in a vermiculture is to avoid the application of chemicals or use contaminated wastes. The addition of organic matter, preferably as a surface mulch, on a regular basis will provide them with their food and nutrient requirements, and will create the optimum conditions of temperature and moisture that will stimulate their activity.BenefitsThe major benefits of earthworm activities to soil fertility can be summarized as:6.1. Biological4117340196850Fig. 3 Faeces in form of casts Earthworms play a major role in the conversion of large pieces of organic matter into rich humus, thus improving soil fertility. This is achieved by the worm's actions of pulling below the surface, deposited organic matter such as leaf fall or manure, either for food or to plug its burrow. Once in the burrow, the worm will shred the leaf and partially digest it and mingle it with the earth. Worm casts can contain 40% more humus than the top-23?cm of soil in which the worm is living. 6.2. Chemical: In addition to dead organic matter, the earthworm also ingests any other soil particles that are small enough—including sand grains up to 1/20 of an inch (1.25?mm)—into its gizzard, wherein those minute fragments of grit grind everything into a fine paste which is then digested in the intestine. When the worm excretes this in the form of casts, deposited on the surface or deeper in the soil, minerals and plant nutrients are changed to an accessible form for plants to use. Investigations in the United States show that fresh earthworm casts are five times richer in available nitrogen, seven times richer in available phosphates, and 11 times richer in available potassium than the surrounding upper 6?inches (150?mm) of soil. In conditions where humus is plentiful, the weight of casts produced may be greater than 4.5?kg per worm per year.6.3 Physical: The earthworm's burrowing creates a multitude of channels through the soil and is of great value in maintaining the soil structure, enabling processes of aeration and drainage. Permaculture co-founder Bill Mollison points out that by sliding in their tunnels, earthworms "act as an innumerable army of pistons pumping air in and out of the soils on a 24-hour cycle (more rapidly at night)". Thus, the earthworm not only creates passages for air and water to traverse the soil, but also modifies the vital organic component that makes a soil healthy. Earthworms promote the formation of nutrient-rich casts (globules of soil, stable in soil (mucus)) that have high soil aggregation and soil fertility and quality.Earthworms accelerate nutrient cycling in the soil-plant system through fragmentation & mixing of plant debris - physical grinding & chemical digestion. The earthworm's existence cannot be taken for granted. Researchers observed "tremendous numerical differences between adjacent gardens", and worm populations are affected by a host of environmental factors, many of which can be influenced by good management practices on the part of the gardener or farmer. 6.4. Improved crop growth and yieldVermicompost plays a major role in improving growth and yield of different field crops, vegetables, flower and fruit crops. the application of vermicompost along with fertilizer N gave higher dry matter and fresh weight. Some experiments have indicated that vermicompost enhances transplant growth rate of vegetables. Amendment of vermicompost with a transplant grown without vermicompost had the highest amount of red marketable fruit at harvest. In addition, there were no symptoms of early blight lesions on the fruit at harvest.6.5. Other benefits: Nutrients are pre-digested, making them readily available to microorganisms and plants.Worm castings form aggregates which improve soil structureCastings neutralize soil by buffering acid and alkaline conditionsVermicomposting is a cold process that retains the microorganisms in the bill and consequently the soil biota sustainability.Economic study:The study made an attempt to analyze the economics of vermicompost production, marketing methods followed, financial feasibility of vermicomposting and the problems faced in vermicompost production and marketing. With respect to method of production, heap method of vermicomposting was followed by 70 % of the producers and trench method was followed by the remaining 30 %. With respect to method of production, a majority of respondents were found to produce vermicompost using heap method because it costs considerably lower compared to the trench method of production. The production of Vermicompost provided part time employment for the family members and hence it generated additional revenue for the family.Women self-help groupes (SHGs) in several watersheds in India have set up vermicomposting enterprises. By becoming an earning member of the family, they are involved in the decision-making process, which has raised their social status. One of the women managed to earn earned $36 per month from this activity. She has also inspired and trained 300 peers in 50 villages. (Nagavallemma et al., 2004). Taking into consideration the cropping system, amount of wastes and the nature of the crop tissue.6.6. Source of plant nutrients:Earthworms consume various organic wastes and reduce the volume by 40–60%. Each earthworm weighs about 0.5 to 0.6 g, eats waste equivalent to its body weight and produces cast equivalent to about 50% of the waste it consumes in a day. These worm castings have been analyzed for chemical and biological properties. The moisture content of castings ranges between 32 and 66% and the pH is around 7.0. The worm castings contain higher percentage (nearly twofold) of both macro and micronutrients than the garden compost (Table 1) (Nagavallemma KP et al., 2004).Table 1. Nutrient composition of vermicompost and garden compost.(Nagavallemma KP et al., 2004).From earlier studies also it is evident that vermicompost provides all nutrients in readily available form and also enhances uptake of nutrients by plants. Soil available N increased significantly with increasing levels of vermicompost. It also showed positive influence on the increase of plant growth promoting activity.6.7. Role in nitrogen cycleEarthworms play an important role in the recycling of N in different agroecosystems, especially under jhum (shifting cultivation) where the use of agrochemicals is minimal. Bhadauria and Ramakrishnan (1996) reported that during the fallow period intervening between two crops at the same site in 5- to 15-year jhum system, earthworms participated in N cycle through cast-egestion, mucus production and dead tissue decomposition. Soil N losses were more pronounced over a period of 15-year jhum system. The total soil N made available for plant uptake was higher than the total input of N to the soil through the addition of slashed vegetation, inorganic and organic manure, recycled crop residues and weeds.6.8. Reduction in soil C:N ratioVermicomposting converts household waste into compost within 30 days, reduces the C:N ratio and retains more N than the traditional methods of preparing composts (Gandhi et al. 1997). The C:N ratio of the unprocessed olive cake, vermicomposted olive cake and manure were 42, 29 and 11, respectively. Both the unprocessed olive cake and vermicomposted olive cake immobilized soil N throughout the study duration of 91 days. Cattle manure mineralized an appreciable amount of N during the study. The prolonged immobilization of soil N by the vermicomposted olive cake was attributed to the C:N ratio of 29 and to the recalcitrant nature of its C and N composition. The results suggest that for use of vermicomposted dry olive cake as an organic soil amendment, the management of vermicomposting process should be so adjusted as to ensure more favorable N mineralization-immobilization (Nagavallemma KP et al., 2004).Chapter II Vermicomposting of agricultural wastes ManagementVermicomposting of crop residues and cattle shed wastes can not only produce a value-added product (vermicomposting) but at the same time acts as best culture medium for large-scale production of earthworms.The composting ability and growth performance of E. eugeniae were evaluated by using a variety of combinations of crop residues and cattle dung, under laboratory conditions. The best results in terms of nutrient enhancement in the end product were recorded in vermicomposted beds as compared to experimental composting without worms. Moreover, vermicompost showed higher amounts of total nitrogen, available phosphorous, exchangeable potassium and calcium content. The ready end product showed relatively lower C:N ratio and comparatively was a more stabilized product. A considerable amount of worm biomass and cocoons were produced in different treatments. However, quality of the feed stuff, used in this study was of a primary importance, determining the earthworm?s growth parameter, e.g. individual biomass, cocoon numbers, growth rate. The results suggest that crop residues can be used as an efficient culture media for large-scale production of E. eugeniae for sustainable land restoration practices at low-input basis (Suthar, 2008). As general information regarding the utilization of earthworm in composting: - One thousand adult worms weigh approximately one kilogram.- One kilogram of adults can convert up to 5 kilograms of waste per day.- Approximately ten kilograms of adults can convert one ton waste per month.- Two thousand adults can be accommodated in one square meter.- One thousand earthworms and their descendants, under ideal conditions, could convert approximately one ton of organic waste into high yield fertilizer in one year.Seven basic principles of vermiculture and vermicomposting to survive and multiply 1.1. Worm Management requirements Bedding; a hospitable living environment, usually called “bedding”Correct amount and type of food: food source.Proper moisture, adequate moisture (greater than 50% water content by weight)Adequate Aeration;Maintaining appropriate temperature range and protection from temperature extremesSuitable pH LevelsSufficient space 1.1.1. Bedding Bedding is any material that provides the worms with a relatively stable habitat. Thishabitat must have the following characteristics: - High absorbency. Worms breathe through their skins and therefore must have a moist environment in which to live. If a worm?s skin dries out, it dies. The beddingmust be able to absorb and retain water fairly well if the worms are to thrive. - Good bulking potential. If the material is too dense to begin with, or packs too tightly, then the flow of air is reduced or eliminated. Worms require oxygen to live, just as we do. Different materials affect the overall porosity of the bedding througha variety of factors, including the range of particle size and shape, the texture, and the strength and rigidity of its structure. - Low protein and/or nitrogen content (high carbon: nitrogen ratio). Although the worms do consume their bedding as it breaks down, it is very important that this bea slow process. High protein/nitrogen levels can result in rapid degradation and its associated heating, creating inhospitable, often fatal, conditions. Heating can occur safely in the food layers of the vermiculture or vermicomposting system, but not inthe bedding. Some materials make good beddings all by themselves, while others lack one or moreof the above characteristics and need to be used in various combinations. Table 2.1provides a list of some of the most commonly used beddings and provides some inputregarding each material's absorbency, bulking potential, and carbon to nitrogen (C:N)ratios. Table 2. Common Bedding Materials Source: Munroe (2007).1.1.2. Worm Food Compost worms are big eaters. Under ideal conditions, they are able to consume more than their body weight each day, although the general rule-of-thumb is ? of their body weight per day. Table 2.2 summarizes the most important attributes of some worm food that could be used in an on-farm vermicomposting or vermiculture operation.Table 3. Advantages and disadvantages of different types of feed.Table 3. Advantages and disadvantages of of different types of feed.Source: Munroe (2007).1.1.3. Moisture The bedding used must be able to hold sufficient moisture if the worms are to have a livable environment. Earthworms do not have specialized breathing devices. They breathe through their skin, which needs to remain moist to facilitate respiration. The ideal moisture-content range for materials in conventional composting systems is 45-60%. In contrast, the ideal moisture-content range for vermicomposting or vermiculture processes is 70-90%. Dominguez and Edwards (1997) found that there is a direct relationship between the moisture content and the growth rate of earthworms. Until 85% moisture, the higher moisture conditions clearly facilitated growth, as measured by the increase in biomass. Increased moisture up to 90% clearly accelerated the development of sexual maturity, whereas not all the worms at 65-75% developed a clitellum even after 44 days. Additionally, earthworms at sexual maturity had greater biomass at higher moisture contents compared to worms grown at lower moisture contents. The moisture content preferences of juvenile and clitellate cocoon-producing (adult) E. fetida in separated cow manure have been investigated. It ranged from 50% to 80% for adults, but juvenile earthworms had a narrower range of suitable moisture levels from 65% to 70%. Clitellum development occurred in earthworms at a moisture content from 60% to 70% but occurred later at a moisture content from 55% to 60%. The tolerance limit for low moisture conditions on the growth of E. fetida was reported to be below 50% for up to 1 month (Reinecke and Venter, 1987). While Gunadi et al. (2003) found that the earthworm growth rate was fastest in the separated cattle manure solids with a moisture content of 90% with a maximum mean weight of earthworms of 600 mg after 12 weeks. The slowest growth rate of E. fetida was in the separated cattle manure solids at a moisture content of 70%. 1.1.4. Aeration Worms require oxygen and cannot survive anaerobic conditions (very low or absence of oxygen). When factors such as high levels of grease in the feedstock or excessive moisture combined with poor aeration conspire to cut off oxygen supplies, areas of the worm bed, or even the entire system, can become anaerobic. This will kill the worms very quickly. Not only are the worms deprived of oxygen, they are also killed by toxic substances (e.g., ammonia) created by different sets of microbes that bloom under these conditions. This is one of the main reasons for not including meat or other greasy wastes in worm feedstock unless they have been pre-composted to break down the oils and fats. We found that the best way to maintain good oxygen levels was to use coarsely shredded material such as paper and especially cardboard, it was found that the type of shredded paper that is like confetti are not good in the bins. The small pieces clump together and form a ball or get matted on the bottom of the bins. This type of paper remains for months in the bins without breaking down. The prison has a large surplus of cardboard and we found that when ran through a shredder that produces long strands, it was the best material for bedding and allowed good air flow in the bins. We also found that the worms seem to prefer this material. Some literature suggests that cardboard encourages breeding. The biggest key to getting oxygen into the bins is to turn them on a regular basis. We do this at least weekly with the breeder bins and get a very high reproduction rate. Another good way to get air into the bottoms of bins is to take the cardboard egg cartons and apple cartons and put them in the bin over the food when you feed and then cover with paper. This creates a pocket of air. 1.1.5. Temperature control Controlling temperature to within the worms? tolerance is vital to both vermicomposting and vermiculture processes. 1.1.5.1. Low temperaturesEisenia can survive in temperatures as low as 0oC, but they don't reproduce at single digit temperatures and they don't consume as much food. It is generally considered necessary to keep the temperatures above 10oC (minimum) and preferably 15oC for vermicomposting efficiency and above 15oC (minimum) and preferably 20oC for productive vermiculture operations. 1.1.5.2. Effects of freezingEisenia can survive having their bodies partially encased in frozen bedding and will only die when they are no longer able to consume food. Moreover, some studies have confirmed that their cocoons survive extended periods of deep freezing and remain viable (GEORG, 2004).1.1.5.3. High temperaturesCompost worms can survive temperatures in the mid-30s but prefer a range in the 20s (oC). Above 35 oC will cause the worms to leave the area. If they cannot leave, they will quickly die. In general, warmer temperatures (above 20 oC) stimulate reproduction. Earthworms attained the highest growth rate of 0.0459g / g-day at a temperature of 19.7?C. The shortest growth period was 52 days at 25?C, with the largest growth rate 0.0138 g /g-day. At 15?C, 20?C and 25?C, the fastest growth rate appeared, respectively, in 53 days, 34 days and 27 days, with the growth rate 0.0068, 0.0123 and 0.0138 g /g-day. (Medany, 2011)Activities in all soil organisms follow a typical seasonal fluctuation. This cycle is related to optimal temperature and moisture, such that a peak in activity usually occurs in the spring as temperature and moisture become optimal after cold winter temperatures. Edwards (1988) reported that the optimum growth of E.fetida in different animal and vegetable wastes occurred at 25-30?C and at a moisture content range of 75-90%, but these factors could vary in different substrates.1.1.5.4. Worms' response to temperature post worms will redistribute themselves within piles, beds or windrows according to temperature gradients. In outdoor composting windrows in wintertime, where internal heat from decomposition is in contrast to frigid external temperatures, the worms will be found in a relatively narrow band at a depth where the temperature is close to optimum. They will also be found in much greater numbers on the south facing side of windrows in the winter and on the opposite side in the summer. The optimum temperature for E. fetida was 25 °C, and its temperature tolerance was between 0 and 35°C.1.1.6. Suitable pH Levels: We found that there is some discrepancy in the printed materials as to what the best pH level is. Most literature states that worms can tolerate a pH range of 5 to 9. The majority suggest a pH level of 7 (neutral) but other text state that worms like a slightly acidic pH level of 5. Indicators of pH level problems are: Worms climbing up and exiting the bin.Worms stay low and not coming up to feed.Worms mass together in a ball.Wrong material supply into a bin due to a failure to properly sort the material such as lunch meats and other high protein items were introduced results in a very stressed worm population and acidic pH levels.The best method for controlling pH is to maintain proper feeding rates and use appropriate foods, adding extra bedding of soaked shredded paper to a bin that has become too acidic gives the worms a place to go and tends to neutralize the conditions. The food waste will decompose naturally and the pH will level out. Some articles suggest the addition of lime which does not hurt the worms as a way to bring the pH level up. pH levels should be checked regularly using a pH monitoring device which has a probe that is put in the soil of the bed and gives a readout.1.1.7. Sufficient spaceWorms need the right amount of space in order to properly function. The general rule is that you want to have as much surface space as possible. Some literatures suggest a stocking rate of anywhere from 2,000 to 8,000 worms per square foot of surface area depending on what your goals are. Bins have to be constantly managed and splitted to get optimum reproduction rates. In a relatively shallow bin, try to have between 3,000 to 4,500 and worms per square foot. For very deep bin, strive to have up to 7,500 worms per square foot in these bins. As the worms have lots of room to move up and down in the deep bin, we can stock at a higher rate to get a higher feeding rate. Most literature states that worms stocked at this higher rate do not reproduce as often and that is our reason for having two styles of bins with different purposes. Worms attained sexual maturity earlier in crowded containers. Worms of same age developed clitellum at different times at different population densities. The results indicate that population of 27–53 worms per kg and 4–8 worms per 150 g/feedmixture is optimum (Garg et al., 2008).2. Methods of vermicomposting2.1. Pits below the ground Photo 4 Open Pit Vermicomposting Source: Medany 2011 356933554610Pit of any convenient dimension can be constructed in the backyard or garden or in a field. It may be single pit, two pits or tank of any sizes with brick and mortar with proper water outlets. The most convenient pit or chamber of easily manageable size is 2m x 1m x 0.75m. The size of the pits and chambers should be determined according to the volume of biomass and agricultural waste. To combat the ants from attacking the worms, it is good to have a water column in the centre of the parapet wall of the vermin-pits. 2.2. Heaping above the ground27800301298575The waste material is spread on a polythene sheet placed on the ground and then covered with cattle dung. Considering the biodegradation of wastes as the criterion, the heap method of preparing vermicompost was better than the pit method. Earthworm population was high in the heap method, with a 21-fold increase in Eudrilus eugenae as compared to 17-fold increase in the pit method. Biomass production was also higher in the heap method (46-fold increase) than in the pit method (31-fold). Consequent production of vermicompost was also higher in the heap method (51 kg) than in the pit method (40 kg). Photo 5Open heap vermicomposting Source: Department of Agriculture,Andaman & Nicobar:()Photo 5 Open Heap VermicompostingOn the contrary, Saini (2008) compared the efficacy of pit and heap methods under field conditions over three seasons (winter, summer and rainy) using, Eisenia fetida. A pit size of 2 × 0.5 × 0.6 m (length × width × depth); and heap of size 2 × 0.6 × 0.5 m (length × width × hight) were prepared with the same amount of mixture. The pits and heaps were made under shady trees, in open field having a temporary shed made of straw, raised on pillars, to prevent them from direct sunlight and rainfall. The pits had brick linings and plastered bottoms. The pits and heaps carrying the organic waste mixture were covered with gunny bags and were watered at 10 liter/pit or heap daily, except on rainy days, to maintain moisture. On the basis of the results of three seasons, it was concluded that summer and winter were better for the pit method, whereas the rainy season favored the heap method for vermicomposting, utilizing Eisenia fetida. However, if the annual performance of the two methods is compared, the pit method produced more worms and more biomass. Therefore, on the latter grounds, the pit method of vermicomposting is more suitable than the heap method in the semi-arid sub-tropical regions.2.3. Tanks above the groundPhoto 6 Tanks above ground5651585725Tanks are varied in dimensions and the technology used by the hand of a mechanized. Also vary in the quantity of waste which can vermicomposting by even small amounts to large amounts of up to 80 tons per day.Different materials could be used to make up, wood, normal or hollow brick or asbestos sheets or any suitable locally available materials, taking. there are slope in one of aspects to aggregate vermicompost liquids. can also create those tanks in open areas with cover surface with plastic colorless permeability in the winter and shading in the summer or created under the buildings. This method advantages are the ability to produce vermicompost liquids and worms, also the high efficiency of the vermicomposting process, but maligned by the difficulty of extracting earthworms after the end of the vermicomposting process. 2.4. Modified tanks above the ground A large tank of bricks, height of 50 - 75 cm from inside is divided into 2 or 4 chambers with holes along walls to allow the earthworm to move easily from one room to another. And take into account making of a slight slope to one side of every room and installed by the gutter for easy collection of vermicompost liquids produced during the process of vermicomposting.Agricultural residues are putting in all the chambers (one after another), after being shredded and mixed with animal manure. Preliminary composting are performed on this mixture. Earthworms shall be added in the first chamber. After all organic waste are decomposed in the first chamber the earthworms move to the second chamber through holes in the walls. This method produces high quality vermicompost easily harvested from the chamber including worms that migrate to the next chamber, without the need to harvest earthworms after decomposed organic waste to be transported to the new organic waste.This method reduces the number of labor used, also reduces the exposure of the worms to direct sunlight and air currents, where the cover only reveals on the one chamber to be harvested and which of them migrated worms .Added amount of organic waste must to be limited to does not increasing of temperature in wastes that affect the lives of earthworm.2.5. Container SystemIt is suitable for composting small to moderate amounts of organic waste in places such as hospitals, restaurants, hotels and cities, also suitable for composting of agricultural wastes.It is maligned by the high cost and limited quantities are used but it high efficiency, ease of transport and flexibility in use within buildings.2.6. Continuous flow system This system consists of multiple shelves from plastic or wood, with importantly aggregate vermicompost liquids. Vermicompost liquids and worms propagation are the main products of this method. While, vermicompost is secondary product. This method is commonly used in vermiculture. 2.7. Cement rings291465021590Photo 7.Cement ring vermicomposting.Source: (Medany, 2011)Photo 7 Cement ring VermicompostingVermicompost can also be prepared above the ground by using cement rings. The size of the cement ring should be 90 cm in diameter and 30 cm in height.2.8. Commercial model-4572061595Photo 8. Commercial vermicompost operation at KCDC Bangalore, India. Source: Basavaiah (2006) Photo 8 Commercial vermicompost operation This model contains partition walls with small holes to facilitate easy movement of earthworms from one chamber to another (Figure 2.1). Providing an outlet at one corner of each chamber with a slight slope facilitates collection of excess water. The four components are filled with plant residues one after another. Once the first chamber is filled layer by layer along with cow dung, earthworms are released. Then the second chamber is started filling layer by layer. Once the contents in first chamber are decomposed the earthworms move to the chamber 2, which is already filled and ready for earthworms. This facilitates harvesting of decomposed material from the first chamber and also saves labor for harvesting and introducing earthworms. This technology reduces labor cost and saves water as well as time (Twomlow, 2004). Water is saved by reducing evaporation from the surface during handling from one room to another in limited distances with minimum exposure to drier air outside. Tanks can be constructed with the dimensions suitable for operations. with small holes to facilitate easy movement of earthworms from one tank to the other. Photo mercial model ofVermicomposting developed by ICRISAT.Source: Twomlow,2004. 3. HarvestingHarvesting is an important procedure for the success of vermiculture operations.Regardless of the harvesting target, it should be done quickly and simply. The targetof harvest could be castings, adult worms or babies and eggs. a- Harvesting castings is performed according to the following steps:- Selecting a growing bed.- Placing narrow strips of 1-2 day old manure along each side of bed.- Waiting 1-2 days- Scooping out from the centre of the bed some castings.- Checking for eggs and worms – these should be very limited.- Collecting castings from centre of bed.- Spreading castings to dry. - When castings clump and crumble, pack into plastic bags with pin-prick holesb- Harvesting adult worms is performed according to the following steps:- Selecting a growing bed.- Placing narrow strips of 1-2 day old manure inside 70% shade-cloth along centre of bed.- Waiting 1-2 days.- Collecting worms and castings from side walls.- Checking size of worm – should be approaching reproductive state and clitellum should be noticeable.- Placing adult worms in breeding beds.- Checking castings for eggs - replace in growing bed.c- Harvesting babies is performed according to the following steps:- Selecting a breeding bed.- Placing narrow strips of 1-2 day old manure or thin fruit peels (not citrus) inside 90% shade-cloth along centre of bed.- Waiting1-2 days.- Emptying contents straight into growing bed, under newspaper cover.- Checking for babies that may be caught in shade-cloth. d- Harvesting eggs is performed according to the following steps:- Selecting a breeding bed.- Baiting one side of the bed.- Wait 1-2 days.- Scooping out the bed on the opposite side of the bait.- Checking for adult worms and replace in bed.- Placing contents directly in growing bed.- Placing new bedding and food on empty side of breeding bed.-186690049530Photo 10 Worm eggs.Source: Medany 20114. Technologies Philippines, Cuba and India are examples of countries with similar overall conditionsto Egypt Their technologies are simple and could be easily adapted to the local conditions. The United States of America is the model example of advanced technologies in vermiculture. Such examples will broaden the readers choice with what could be done in the future. Unfortunately, vermicompost and vermiculture are very limited in MENA region, Most of the studies look at utilization of local species. Therefore, the following examples were selected to broaden the picture of commercialproduction. One could adapt or modify any of them or even create a newer version, taking into consideration all costs and requirement needed for the complete process and application.4.1 Vermicomposting in TechnologiesPhoto 3.1.Earthworm plots showing plastic covers and support frameSource: 1778030778452693670344170 The worms used are Lumbricus rubellus and/or Perionyx excavator. The worms are reared and multiplied from a commercially-obtained breeder stock in shallow wooden boxes stored in a shed. The boxes are approximately 45 cm x 60 cm x 20 cm and have drainage holes; they are stored on shelves in rows and tiers. A bedding material is compounded from miscellaneous organic residues such as sawdust, cereal straw, rice husks, bagasse, cardboard and so on, and is moistened well with water. The wet mixture is stored for about one month, being covered with a damp sack to minimize evaporation, and is thoroughly mixed several times. When fermentation is complete, chicken manure and green matter such as water hyacinth is added. The material is placed in the boxes and should be sufficiently loose for the worms to burrow and should be able to retain moisture. The proportions of the different materials will vary according to the nature of the material but a final protein content of about 15% should be aimed at. A pH value as near neutral as possible is necessary and the boxes should be kept at temperatures between 20oC and 27oC. At higher temperatures, the worms will aestivate and, at lower temperatures, they hibernate. The excess worms that have been harvested from the pit can be used in other pits, sold to other farmers for the same purpose, used or sold for use as animal feed supplement, used or sold for use as fish food or, may even be used in certain human food preparations (Misra and Roy, 2003).The site chosen was a flat but slightly inclining area (around 3%) of approximately 1,000 m2. It is partially shaded by mahogany trees in the morning and the afternoon. The soil is clay loam with nearly neutral pH. Water used for the experiment was provided from an adjacent deep well. A total of 8 units of 1 m x 5 m earthworm plots were constructed on bare ground utilizing roofing material as sidewalls. The sidewalls had a total height of around 40 cm, of which 3-4 cm was sunk on the ground. Wooden stakes supported these sidewalls. Each plot was sub-divided into two units of 1 m x 2.5 m beds for ease of management. The unit was provided with a hapa net lining, to prevent the worms from digging beneath the substrate and escaping. Plots were covered with a plastic sheet to protect it from direct sunlight and rain. A horizontal wooden beam stretching the length of plot and held by vertical poles provided the support for the plastic sheet cover. Earthworm plots were kept covered with a plastic canopy, and opened only during inspection or when watering was done. Several types of substrates were used in the study; these were sugarcane bagasse, mud press, spent mushroom substrate, and cow manure. The plots were watered every 3-6 days, depending on the weather. During the dry months, watering was routinely done every 3 days. Based on the data and experience gathered in this study, the cost and return projection for a larger scale earthworm farm are based on the following keyassumptions: Many studies suggests a potential for developing the use of earthworms in farm-made moist feeds. Such type of feed is simple to produce and is proven to work well when properly formulated and processed. In as much as the production technology for earthworm farming can be readily adopted at the village level, where organic raw materials abound and where labor is cheap.4.2. Technologies for propagation Some countries utilized and applied different methods are used for worm propagation and vermicomposting. The first and most common is cement troughs, two feet wide and six feet long, much like livestock watering troughs, used to raise worms and create worm compost. Because of the climate, they are watered by hand every day. In these beds, the only feedstock for the worms is manure, which is aged for about one week before being added to the trough.First, a layer of three to four inches of manure is placed in the empty trough, then worms are added. As the worms consume the manure, more manure is layered on top, roughly every ten days, until the worm compost reaches within a couple inches of the top of the trough, about two months. Then the worms are separated from the compost and transferred to another trough.The second method of vermicomposting is windrows, where cow manure is piled about three feet across and three feet wide, and then it is seeded with worms. As the worms work their way through it, fresh manure is added to the end of the row, and the worms move forward. The rows are covered with fronds or palm leaves to keep them shaded and cool. Some of these rows have a drip system - a hose running alongside the row with holes in it. But mostly, the rows are watered by hand. Some of these rows are hundreds of feet long. The compost is gathered from the opposite end when the worms have moved forward. Then it is bagged and sold. Fresh manure, seeded with worms, begins the row and the process again. Some of the windrows have bricks running along their sides, but most are simply piles of manure without sides or protection. Manure is static composted for 30 days, then transferred to rows for worms to be added. After 90 days, the piles reach three feet high. It has been reported that worm populations can double in 60 to 90 days.5. Vermicompost teas Vermicompost tea is an aqueous solution composed of water extracts of solid vermicompost from which microorganisms, soluble nutrients, and plant beneficial substances are converted into a liquid form. Vermicompost tea can be used in a wide range of horticultural and agricultural systems to elicit plant growth and pest and disease management responses through a variety of mechanisms.The process of making vermicompost tea creates a concentrated organic solution that is high in beneficial microbes and nutrients. Numerous scientific trials have shown the use of vermicompost tea to promote plant growth, increase fruit weight and have a dramatic effect on plant germination. Additionally, vermicompost tea has been shown to suppress arthropod pests and parasitic nematodes in plants.Some practival experiments showed that vermicompost teas increased the germination, growth, flowering, and yields of tomatoes, cucumbers, and other crops in similar ways to solid vermicomposts. The aerated, vermicompost ?teas? suppressed the plant diseases Fusarium, Verticillium, Plectosporium, and Rhizoctonia to the same extent as the solid. Vermicompost ?teas? also suppressed populations of spider mites (Tetranychus urticae) and aphids (Myzus persicae) significantly.These aqueous vermicompost extracts or "teas" are much easier to transport and apply, than solid vermicomposts, and can duplicate most of the benefits of vermicomposts when applied to the same crops. Additionally, they can be applied to crops as foliar sprays.The basic process of making the tea is to dissolve worm castings in de-chlorinated water, add a simple sugar solution and allow the liquid to “brew” by introducing air to the system. This is usually accomplished through an aquarium type air pump. The beneficial aerobic microbes that are found in worm castings multiply by extremely high factors. The finished tea is then able to be sprayed on plants as a nutritional supplement as well as for pest and disease suppression.Vermicompost tea is a highly marketed product that is becoming more mainstream among organic and sustainable agriculture farmers. Numerous studies and field trials have shown that when incorporated with other comprehensive natural practices, vermicompost tea can eliminate the need for chemical pesticides, herbicides and synthetic fertilizers.One of the established benefits of vermicompost tea is the fact that it contains a high amount of trace minerals. There is a growing demand for products with trace minerals in both the organic and conventional farming world. The reason for the importance of trace minerals is that conventional fertilizers only address the NPK needs of soil and over time these trace minerals disappear. Additionally, common chemical herbicides such as glyphosate have been shown to limit the availability of trace minerals.Recent analysis of the castings at WSRU showed it to be relatively high in many of these trace minerals when compared to other typical fertilizers. Other benefits of vermicompost tea include: Increased microbial numbers and activity.Does not “burn” plants. It is impossible to over feed plants.The microbes in the tea consume and out-compete pathogens.Vermicompost tea is sold in both bottled and “fresh” form. Most literature supports a strong preference for “fresh” tea. This means tea that is actively being brewed and is used within 10 days. The aerobic microbes that are activated and multiplied by the brewing process begin to die off as soon as air is removed from the system. As the aerobic microbes die off they are replaced my anaerobic microbes which are not beneficial to plants. Tea that is sold in bottled form has additives such as citric acid added to suspend the microbes and they usually need to be recharged prior to use. 6. Worm mealWorm meal or vermin-meal is an excellent source of protein and nutrients. Earthworms typically contain over 80% moisture and can be fed directly to animals. To preserve the worms and process them into to a more convenient food they can be dried and ground up into worm meal.In addition to the protein, worms are a valuable source of essential amino acids and vitamins. The fats in worms are highly unsaturated and no additional antioxidants need to be added to the worm meal to preserve it. Worm meal may replace fish meal and meat and bone meal. Earthworms are the best bait for anglers. Pay attention to the palatability of various species of earthworms. It is said that Eisenia foetida can produce a substance fish do not like. In Australia they culture 3-4 species of earthworms: red wiggler Lumbricus rubellus, Indian blue Perionyx excavatus, African earthworm Eudrilus eugeniae, and Eisenia foetida.The protein content of earthworms is complete, containing 8-9 essential amino acids for human beings, including 9-10% tasty glutamic acid. Compared with other meat, the protein of earthworms is higher than meat and the lipid, 2% lower than meat. From the view point of health, earthworms might be one of ideal food with high protein and low lipid for human beings as well.The key to the multi-pronged success of earthworms as aquaculture fodder is their diet of organic wastes. Land-based pollution, such as festering animal manure, is an enormous problem for coastal fisheries impacted by runoff. Britain alone produces 84 megatons of cow manure, 9 megatons of pig waste and 5 megatons of chicken waste each year, much of which flows to the coast as runoff. This pollution is a significant contributor to the declining productivity of wild fish stocks, as fish struggle to cope with their heavily contaminated environment. Earthworms solve this problem by converting land animal wastes into high-protein aquaculture feed. Earthworms convert cow manure into dry matter at a remarkable 10 percent clip.Earthworms, delivering a protein punch of 5.9 million tons. The recipe is uncomplicated: find crap, add worms, wait, then harvest, dry and grind. The rock-solid implications of earthworms for aquaculture have already been verified. Two species of worms were fed to a group of trout, a classic intensive aquaculture species, while another group was fed commercial trout pellets made from fishmeal. The results were splendid: the earthworm-fed fish grew as well or better than their fishmeal-fed counterparts. Another study indicated the effectiveness of earthworm feed on tilapia aquaculture, finding that tilapia actually grew better with earthworm supplements than with fishmeal.Using earthworms as fish feed presents a truly novel method for reducing the impact of aquaculture on marine ecosystems. The benefits are threefold. Earthworms eat polluting manure, improving water quality of coastal fisheries and aiding in recovery from over-fishing. Eliminating fishmeal from aquaculture diets will also significantly reduce overall stress on wild fisheries as well as allow for production cost control independent of the price of wild fish. Thirdly, and not insignificantly, earthworms can be used in place of fishmeal to feed land animals such as cows, pigs and chickens. At present, land animal consumption accounts for a great deal of fishmeal intake, and transitioning livestock to an earthworm diet will take huge pressure off wild fisheries. Earthworms are a triple-win solution to intensive aquacultures? appetite for fishmeal.The worms are by no means a silver bullet as they cannot solve all of aquaculture's problems immediately. Pollution from intensive crustacean aquaculture will remain a serious threat to coastal habitats until the lagoons are either moved inland or farmed less intensively. This is to say nothing of mollusk aquaculture, a genuine champion of sustainable protein production. Earthworms, with an important high protein component, are used to feed chickens, pigs, rabbits, and as a dietary supplement for ornamental fish or other fish species difficult to raise and Some authors claim that in breeding of aquarium fish it is essential to use a variety of food. Vermicompost produced in ecological boxes can be used for feeding plants and the created biomass can be a highly nutritious food for animals, because it consists of 58–71% protein, 2.3–9.0% fat depending on earthworm species and the way earthwormsare fed with organic waste. 7. Earthworms, the sustainable aquaculture feed of the futureAquaculture is a booming global industry: from 2002 to 2006, world aquaculture production increased from 40.4 million metric tons to 51.7 million metric tons. Over athree-decade span from 1975 to 2005, aquaculture production grew tenfold. During this same span of time, however, wild capture fell from 93.2 to 92.0 million metric tons. The inherent exhaustibility of the oceans necessitates that economically efficient and environmentally responsible aquaculture fill the gap between supply and demand for finfish and shellfish worldwide.Genetic contamination and pollution, both chemical and biological, are serious blemishes on the face of responsible aquaculture; however, the solution is simple. Floating or land-based solid-wall tanks, such as those already in use in British Columbia, eliminate escapes altogether. Wastes and uneaten feed, all collected within the tank, are pumped through a filter, eliminating their respective eutrophying and polluting effects. The real problem with status quo aquaculture isn?t genetic contamination or pollution, but rather the inefficiency and un-sustainability of fishmeal as used for fish feed.Carnivorous finfish aquaculture, the type employed in salmon and tuna farming, typically depends on fishmeal, an oily paste made from ground fishes such as mackerel and sardines, for feed. Each pound of farmed fish for human consumption demands many pounds of fishmeal throughout the farming process, presenting a serious barrier to the expansion of responsible aquaculture. Tilapia, a onetime dining hall staple, is only 25 percent calorie efficient, meaning that it takes four tons of fishmeal to grow only one ton of tilapia. Sardines and mackerel serve as important sources of protein worldwide and as the diet of larger, commercially valuable stocks. New sources of feed must be developed in order to facilitate industrial expansion and ease aquaculture?s strain on the world?s over-fished oceans. Organic manures if not decomposed completely before application in aquaculture pond may deteriorate the water quality as they utilize oxygen during decomposition. Therefore, the amount of any organic manure to be added in the pond mainly depends upon its biological oxygen demand (BOD), as their excessive use may cause severe dissolved oxygen depletion in the pond and results in production of toxic gases like CO2 , H2S, NH3, etc., and can spread parasitic diseases. 8. Guidelines for vermicompost making to serve as training manual at farm and household levelRed Wiggler Worms or Eisenia Foetida are well known and are amongst the favorite worm specie as composting worms in organic gardening8.1. Getting startedPlace moist bedding material in the bin Start with at least 500 grams of live wormsAdd finely chopped food scraps Cover with hessian sack or damp newspaperBedding material is needed to settle the worms into their new home. Compost, soil, potting mix, coconut fiber, dead leaves or shredded paper can all be used to bed the compost worms into the bin. Take care to ensure that the bedding material you use to start the bin is free draining. Place the bedding material directly into the bottom of the bin.For best results place at least 80 liters of bedding (3/4 Full) into the bin. This is the equivalent of two bags of compost or potting mix.If you have sufficient bedding material available, you can fill the bin to the top of the taper before you add the worms.Moisten the bedding material with some water, but don’t saturate it. The bedding should be as wet as a wrung-out sponge. Add the worms to the top of the bedding material and cover with approximately 2.5cm (1in) of food scraps (preferably finely chopped). The amount of food you add each day will depend on your starting worm population.?Approximately 2000 adult worms (or 500gms) is a good number to start your bin. However, the more worms you start with the faster the bin will reach maximum capacity. A full population is approximately 16,000 worms, or 3kg of adult worms.It takes about six to eight months to breed a full population from a small starting population. As the population grows it will regulate its numbers to match the food supply. Your bin will not become overpopulated. The number of worms in the bin will be determined by the amount and type of food you feed the bin. Similarly, there is no minimum amount of food you need to feed the bin each day. As long as the bin is fed regularly, and you follow the feeding guidelines, the bin will operate without problems.You can cover the worms with damp newspaper, sacking or old carpet to encourage them to come to the surface. Keep the lid closed as worms don’t like direct light – the lid is also designed to prevent insects from getting into the bin.8.2. Choosing a locationA sheltered shady spot is bestCan be moved easily to a different location?Ideally choose a sheltered, shady spot for the hungry bin – the ideal temperature is between 15-25 degrees Celsius. Avoid extremes of temperature, particularly full sun in summer, as temperatures over 35C may kill the worms. The bin can be kept on a balcony or in a garage or basement if you don’t have a garden. You can wheel your bin between different locations depending on the weather conditions or season. If the bin is outdoors in winter, make sure it is not subjected to freezing conditions for extended periods of time.8.3. Moving the binTake care when moving the bin. When the bin is full of castings, it can weigh up to 125kg. If the bin accidentally tips over and lands on you when you are moving it, a serious injury may result. Lean the bin over about 15 degrees and balance it on its wheels before attempting to move it. Take care not to slip or lose your balance. Ensure that you have a firm grip on the handle and a secure footing. Take particular care if you are moving the bin over rough ground. Do not move the bin on slippery surfaces. Do not move the bin sideways on steep slopes or down stairs.8.4. What to feed your wormsCompost worms benefit from a balanced diet. They will eat most normal kitchen fruit and vegetable scraps. Avoid feeding the worms large quantities of meat, citrus, onions and dairy foods. Some processed food also contains preservatives, which discourage the worms from eating it. These foods won’t harm your worms, but they will avoid them and those scraps will break down and rot in the bin. The worms will eat their preferred food first but like to have some variety. The smaller and softer the scraps, the easier it is for the worms to digest and process them into castings.LikesDislikesMost fruit and vegetable scrapsCitrus, acidic fruit skinPulp from the juicerSpicy foods, onion, garlic, leeks, capsicumsCooked foodMeat and dairy productsTea leaves/bags and coffee groundsBread, pasta and processed wheat productsCrushed/ground eggshellsShiny paperHair, vacuum cleaner dust, soiled paper, tissues, handy towels, shredded egg cartons, toilet roll inners, paper lunch wrapFats or oilsShredded moist newspaper & cardboard?Lawn clippings in small quantities (spray free), weeds, clippings, prunings, dirt and leaves?Sawdust (untreated), wood ash?Compost worms will also eat garden or yard waste, and animal manure. If adding lawn clippings take care to only add a little at a time. Fresh lawn clippings can heat up and cause problems. If you do place animal manure in your bin ensure that the animals have not been treated with anti-worm medication, as it may still be effective in their dung. It is also not advised to use dog or cat droppings if you intend to use the castings in your food garden, as the animals may have gut parasites, which can potentially infect humans.8.5. How much to feed wormsAdd up to 2.5cm per day Uneaten food should not be more than 5cm deepOnly add more food as it is eatenIt is very important that the hungry bin is not overfed. A fully functioning bin will have up to 3kgs of compost worms. They prefer to eat their food as it begins to decompose, but not if it has become slimy and smelly. If the bin is overfed, the food scraps will begin to rot before the worms can eat them. Rotting food scraps not only smell, but also interfere with the lifecycle of the worms and the operation of the bin.Rotting food is anaerobic – or oxygen deprived. Because worms breathe through their skin, anaerobic conditions prevent the worms from breathing properly, and may cause them to die.Worms can eat roughly their own body weight in food a day, so make sure that you only add about the same volume of food each day as there are worms. Start by feeding the worms a small amount of food each day. Each time you feed the bin, check that uneaten food is not accumulating. You could chop up large food scraps into small pieces – the smaller and softer the scraps, the easier it is for the worms to digest and process them into castings.Slowly increase the amount you feed the worms as the population multiplies. The worms will breed and increase in numbers to match the food supply. Building up a full population of worms (about 3kgs) can take up to six months.Remember the hungry bin is not the same as a rubbish bin. A garbage truck does not magically empty it every week! The worms cannot eat the food as fast as it is possible for you to put it in, especially if the population is small when you start. It is better to underfeed your worms than overfeed them.A good rule of thumb is that uneaten food should be no more than 5cm deep. You can check this by digging through the top layer of the bin and checking how deep the uneaten food is. In a healthy bin finished castings should be present 5-10cm (2-4in) below the top layer.? You should also be able to see a mixture of adult and juvenile worms, indicating that the worms are breeding.? If uneaten food is building up, simply stop putting new food into the bin until the worms have eaten the food present.Approximately 20cm (8in) below the surface the food should have been completely converted into worm castings. Finished castings look like high quality compost and have very little smell.Worm eggs should also be present in the castings immediately below the food layer; signifying conditions are ideal for breeding. The worms need to be able to lay their eggs in fresh castings immediately below the food they are eating. If the bin is overfed and a layer of rotting food has formed, the juvenile worms will be unable to move upwards through the rotting layer to the fresh food when they hatch, resulting in the population declining. In extreme cases the rotting food will need to be removed completely and the bin restarted, as rotten food can take a long time to break down in the bin. Compost worms are fast breeders. Under ideal conditions they will double their numbers every three months.?As general information regarding the utilization of earthworm in composting: - One thousand adult worms weigh approximately one kilogram. - One kilogram of adults can convert up to 5 kilograms of waste per day.- Approximately ten kilograms of adults can convert one ton waste per month.- Two thousand adults can be accommodated in one square meter.- One thousand earthworms and their descendants, under ideal conditions, could convert approximately one ton of organic waste into high yield fertilizer in one year.8.6. Breeder Barrel Bins This is a plastic 55 gallon barrel cut in half and mounted on a movable rack with hinges that allow the half barrel to be tilted up on the rack. Each barrel bin has 5.5 square feet of surface area and is capable of holding 20-30,000 worms. The management model for this bin is designed to stimulate high reproduction rates. This is accomplished through a relatively high stocking rate of 3,500 per square foot and intensive management practices. These bins are fed 1 gallon of processed food, three times a week. They are also turned weekly to aerate the bins. These bins are also regularly split in half to stimulate hatching.This design has several benefits: The concave walls allow for easy turning of the material in the bin to increase oxygen.The worm population is divided into a relatively small unit that can be individually monitored. If one bin has a problem it can be localized and the entire population is not affected. The movable rack allows us to take a bin outside if it develops an odor problem. The shape of the bins being smaller as it goes down facilitates higher breeding due to the fact that the worms are more congested when they are not on top feeding.8.7. Starting a breeder binTo start a breeder bin we fill the bin to about half full with shredded paper that has been soaked in water and drained until it is still quite damp but not too wet. We add 5000 or so worms and let them sit for a day or two. At this amount of worms the bin will only need to be fed about ? gallon of processed food per week. The bin should be gently turned every week to keep good airflow. If the food from the previous feeding has not been eaten, wait to feed. 8.8. Watering, turning and feedingThe top layer of paper should always be damp. A spray bottle of water works well for this. Do not soak but lightly spray the top layer daily. It is a good idea to start with a new bottle and mark it “Worm Water Only.” This will prevent you from spraying cleaner or other chemicals in the bin. Before each feeding the area that you are going to feed should be lightly turned to provide good aeration. Gently pull the paper back and turn the material up from the bottom. If you find a bad odor it is probably a result of the bin being too wet. You can add some dry paper to the bottom of the bin to remedy this. If you find uneaten food,simply cover it with clean damp shredder paper and the worms will take care of it soon enough.When we feed these bins we pull a layer of paper back from one half of the bin, (either the front half or back half) and spread the food out in a thin layer of 1 inch or less. The paper is then spread back over the food to cover it. The next time this bin is fed the other half of the bin will be fed. This always gives the worms a place to go and gives the food a chance to be completely eaten before you feed that half again. Eventually the paper will be too decomposed to pull back a section. Feed on top of the paper in the same way, only feeding half the bin and cover with 2 inches of fresh damp paper. This will continue to happen and you will have several layers until the bin is nearly full. At this point your worm population should be close to 30,000. Once worm population reaches 20,000-30,000 worms they should be able to consume 3 gallons of food per week.8.9. Splitting the bins: When the breeder bins reach a population of 30,000 or more worms it is time to split the bin. It is best to stop feeding for about a week prior to splitting the bins. This will allow the food to be consumed and makes the process much nicer. The easiest way to split the bin is to fill a new breeder bin with about 3 inches of clean damp paper and take half of the contents, castings, bedding and worms and spread it evenly across the paper in the new bin. Cover with clean damp paper. If you are trying to establish a breeding program, it is important not to remove the castings from the breeder bins as it contains thousands of cocoons. By spreading the castings across clean bedding the cocoons will begin to hatch out and the bin will refill with worms. The new bin should be allowed to rest for a day or two before feeding. Once a series of breeder bins are established you can expect to be splitting them every 1 ? to 2 months. The split bins with 10-15 thousand worms will quickly spread out and lay cocoons and within 30 days you will have lots of baby worms. These will quickly grow as you feed.Table 4. Breeder Bin weekly management Table 4. Breeder Bin weekly management Breeder Bin weekly managementTask Description Times per weekFood collectionGo to IK and pick up food. Take to wormery and dump food in cart. Wash out cans for return to IK.5Food processing and clean upProcess food through shredder if available. If you do not have a shredder, place food in a 5 gallon bucket 1/3 full and smash and chop with a flat nosed shovel. Clean cans, carts and shredder. Hose down outside area and clean up.5Turning breeder bins Remove covers and trays from bins. Gently turn material over mixing paper and castings. Allow material to air dry for 20-30 minutes. Replace with new paper on top. Put trays and covers back on.3Feeding breeder bins Remove covers and trays from bins. Pull paper back from half of bin to be fed. If old food is not mostly consumed do not feed. If food is mostly consumed, feed light layer no more than 1 inch thick. Replace paper, trays and covers.3Watering all binsRemove covers and trays and open lids. Lightly water with spray bottle to get paper damp (not soaked). Replace covers, trays and close lids.5Collecting paper/booksGo to units, education and library with cart and pick up recycled paper from bins.1Shredding paperSeparate out high gloss paper and staples. Run through shredder and put in designated bins. Soak with water and let drain.1Monitoring pH, temperature and moisture all bins Use monitors to check and record for each bins.1CleaningGeneral cleaning, sweeping and mopping of area.5Splitting tea binsApproximately every month each tea bins needs to be split to facilitate maximum breeding rates. Gently remove half of material to new bin. Spread the rest of the material out across bottom of tea bin. Cover with new paper.1 to 2months8.10. Flow Through ReactorsinsideinsideFlow through reactors were originally created by Professor Clive Edwards of The Ohio State University and Dan Holcomb of the Oregon Soil Corporation. Many variations of this system are for sale on the market. The key to the design is that food waste and layers of bedding are added to the top and as the material breaks down and the worms deposit castings, finished vermicompost settles to the bottom. This material is then harvested from the bottom as it falls through a large screen. These units have the benefits of a higher processing capacity and less labor as there is no turning of the beds.The drawbacks to this system are that there is a larger population of worms and a higher volume of material. If a unit gets too acidic or develops other problems it is harder to address. Another drawback is that you lose cocoons with the castings and the worms reach a maximum carrying capacity. They also take a lot of worms to function properly. You should not try to start flow through systems until you have a large breeder program up and running. We have made our flow through bins out of reclaimed food carts that were being scrapped out. There are many different items that could be converted into a flow through reactor or they can be built from wood.Each unit has approximately 20 square feet of surface area and a 50 cubic foot capacity. These systems are capable of housing 100,000 - 150,000 worms and have a processing capacity of nearly 75 lbs of waste per week. 8.11. Watering, turning and feeding:Generally you should not need to add water to the hungry bin. Food scraps have a high water content, which helps keep the bin moist. The design lets excess water drain from the bin, but ensures enough moisture is retained to maintain optimal conditions. The worms do need to be moist though, so if the bin has dried out, sprinkle a little water on the top of the bin. If you have added dry matter like shredded paper you may also need to add water. Take care not to drown the worms, the top should only be as wet as a wrung-out sponge.The flow through bins tend to dry out much faster than the breeder bins as they have a constant air flow and the liquid all drains out the bottom. It is essential that the bins get watered daily during the week and get a heavier watering prior to weekends or holidays. We use a pump sprayer like the ones used to spray fertilizer. We give each bin a daily watering until the top paper is wet. You can also use a hose with a nozzle set to light mist. The bins do not need much in the way of turning but we do spend some time each week working the castings that accumulate around the edges. Gently pull back the paper and scoop the casting and worms from the edges and deposit in the middle of the bin. Cover the edges back with paper. This allows the castings to work its way out the bottom of the bin and put the worms back into the area where they can eat the most food. It also distributes the cocoons and helps to stimulate hatching. We feed these bins 5 gallons of processed food three times a week. Gently pull the paper back from one half of the bin and check to make sure that the majority of the previous feeding has been consumed. Spread the five gallons out in as thin a layer as possible. Recover with the paper. Sometimes the paper will be too decomposed to pull back a section. Feed on top of the paper in the same way, only feeding half the bin and cover with 2 inches of fresh damp paper. Although it seems that the bin will eventually overflow, we have had bins in operation for over 18 months and fed thousands of pounds of food without it ever reaching the top of the bin. inside165100The bin will produce about half a liter (one pint) of liquid a day when it has a full worm population and is fed regularly. It is important that the liquid is free to drain from the bin at all times.If liquid from your bin is not collecting in the drip tray, it may be too dry. According to the current status, water could be added. The filter tray may also have become blocked with paper or plastic if this has been placed in the bin. Remove the floor and check the filter.Check that the bin is not exposed to intense sun for long periods and move to a shadier spot if necessary.?The liquid fertilizer should be mixed 1 part with 10 parts water before being sprinkled onto the soil around plants.If you are not getting much liquid it may be evaporating before you get a chance to use it. In this case you can place a suitable jug or bottle under the floor to catch the juice. Placing a funnel in the neck of a bottle will help catch the juice.8.12. No much liquid produced:If you have started you hungry bin with commercial compost mix or potting mix, it can take a while for the compost to become fully saturated, and the liquid to start running from the hungry bin. You can help the process along by sprinkling a little water from a watering can slowly over a couple of days until there is juice draining from the hungry bin.2759075730258.13. Collecting castings:Our flow through bins have tubs under them to collect the castings that drop through. It is important to collect these regularly at least once a week. Some worms will fall through with the castings and if they are not collected and properly stored they will dry out and die. Also the castings will have some liquid from the bins in with it and it will turn anaerobic if it is left for too long. We put all the castings in a special container that we have for this purpose and allow it to drain. This can be anything as simple as a 5 gallon bucket with holes drilled in the bottom for drainage or as elaborate as a laundry cart bin that has been converted for that purpose. We also place a screen on the top of the castings with food on it to draw the worms that are in the castings to the top so they can be returned to a bin. The casting should be allowed to cure and dry out for about a week before using. Miscellaneous Bins It has been found that it is good to have some miscellaneous bins that can be used for overflow. If you have excess food it is thrown in this bin. The management model is very low maintenance. In our project this bin started out as just one overflow from a bin that had gotten too acidic. We threw the material into this bin, covered it with a large amount of paper and set it outside because it stunk. After being checked several weeks later it was full of worms. So it has to be kept going and added other bins as they became available. Although these bins do not have the breeding rate or reproduction capabilities of the other two styles, they are very helpful because as you are managing the other bins, there is always a need to put some material somewhere. The other thing that comes up is you have a breeder bin that needs splitting and you don’t have anywhere to put it, in our system, we put it in a laundry bin and let it sit until we have a production bin available. Or if a bin gets smelly, we will put the contents in a laundry bins and cover it heavily with paper and put it outside and forget about it for awhile. We basically use these bins as bonus bins and treat them as though they do not matter. The idea is that you can feed them heavily and cover with a lot of paper because you have already written them off. At the end of the year we always find that they produce a lot of worms and process a large amount of food. The only critical management issue is to make sure you give them plenty of water. Occasionally a worm may fall from the bin into the drip tray, especially if castings have recently been removed. If the food is too wet the worms will look fat and pale. Add some dry leaves or shredded paper. Gently use a fork to turn the top layer and create some drain holes on the surface. If heavy rain is flooding your bin try moving it to a more sheltered location.Table 5. Task Flow Through Bin Weekly ManagementFlow Through Bin Weekly ManagementTask Description Times per weekTurning flowthrough binsOpen lids and secure. Let stand for 10 minutes. Pull paper back from the half of bin with marker. Gently turn material over mixing paper and castings.Replace paper and close lids.2Feeding flowthrough bins Open lids and secure. Let stand for 10 minutes. Pull paper back from one half of bin. Feed 4-5 gallons. Spread food out. Put feeding marker on side fed. Replace paper and close lids.3Watering bin.Open lids. Lightly water to get paper damp (not soaked). Close lids.5Collecting castings.Remove trays from under each bin and dump into sorting tank. Scrape tray with dust pan. Allow liquid to drain into tote and empty. Mop under bins. Replace trays.5Sorting worms fromcastings Place castings on sorting table under fluorescent lights. Allow worms to move to the bottom. Gently brush off the top material until you reach worms. Let sit for 10 minutes to allow worms to go down further. Repeat process until you have a ball of worms at the bottom. Place worms in bins quickly and spread them out as they are stressed. Hand sort through rest of pile looking for any worms that were missed.1Monitoring ph, temp. and moisture all bins.Use monitors to check and record for each bin.1Cleaning General cleaning, sweeping and mopping of area. It is important to mop under and around the trays that collect the castings as these can become an odor problem. 58. 14. Data EntryKeeping good records of what is happening in each bin is critical to effective management. Inmates maintain a database that documents how much food is processed in each bin as well as how many gallons of castings and worm tea are harvested. Any additional information or events are also documented. Monthly and quarterly reports are prepared. This allows progress identification that is being made as well as areas that we can improve upon.8.15. Feeding Rates: There are many systems on the market that make a broad range of claims as to how much material can be processed by the worms each day. Claims range from 50 -150% of the worm biomass daily. The general rule is that the majority of the food waste should be consumed before adding another layer. Allowing the air to reach the material and then covering it with shredded paper after a day or two seems to help stimulate the microbial life. Burying the food too deep or using a layer heavier than 1 inch causes it to clump up and slowly decompose which creates odor problems. Most fruits and vegetables do well in the bins if they are chopped small and mixed with paper to bulk them up and allow airflow. The worms seem to prefer finer ground food as it is easier to eat. Citrus fruit breaks down very slowly and the worms avoid it. Melon rinds are the favorite fruit in bins and for some reason, large hatch are obtained when worms feed on them. 8.16. Food Supply and shredding papers:Coordinating food supply is very critical and the separation of worm “friendly” food waste from the other food waste involves increased workload. Also Shredded paper is essential to the worm operation. Any old books, newspapers that are being thrown away could be used as shredded papers in bins. Prior to shredding we sort out all the high gloss paper, ads and any staples. After shredding the paper needs to be soaked in water and then drained well. This takes out some of the ink and gets the paper ready to be used in the bins. It is a good idea to toss the paper a bit after it is drained to get air back into it before placing in the beds. The point of the paper is to provide air and space for bedding for the worms. The fruit flies are more of a nuisance than anything else. They do not hurt the worms at all and the maggots that they breed, although gross to find in the bin, actually help with the processing of food waste. Having a deep layer of bedding on top of the feeding area helps to keep the fly problem in check. Also keeping the beds covered with a cloth helps. Also using traps made out of plastic bottles on a continuous basis to keep the fly population down. Red mites are a bigger problem in the bins as some periodicals state that they can be parasitic to worms. Red mites tend to gather in groups on the corners of the bins and they could be removed manually by using a wet paper towel and wipe the lid and sides of the bins where they congregate.The bin can be left for two to four weeks without fresh food. Adding shredded paper, dead leaves or dry lawn clippings to the food for a week or two before you go away helps the food last longer. Water any dry material you add to your hungry bin to ensure the bin doesn't dry out while you are away.If you are going away for a month or two, it’s no problem either. All you need to do is alternate layers of leaves, dried grass clippings, shredded paper with alternate layers of food scraps. A total of 30 cm will last for a couple of months without too many problems. If you are away for longer, you may need to ask a freind to feed your farm while you are away.Pest have negative effects, Flies, ants and other insectsThe hungry bin is designed to prevent pests from entering. However, it is a living ecosystem and some small beneficial insects can exist in the bin quite happily. Sometimes these other insects are eating food the worms don't like or prefer not to eat. Insects may also be present in food scraps that are introduced to the bin, e.g. fruit fly larvae.The food in the bin will naturally attract other creatures. Sometimes insects like white fly are attracted to the bin because the food is too acidic. Try balancing the food with a little lime, shredded paper, dead leaves or sawdust. Covering the food with a hessian sack, old carpet or damp newspaper will also discourage unwelcome visitors.AntsIf the farm is too dry, ants can also establish their nests in the hungry bin itself. Keeping the surface moist will help discourage ants. Ants can be discouraged from enetering the bin by ensuring the bin is not touching a surface the ants can enter the bin from, and then smearing a layer of petroleum jelly on the legs just under the sockets on the lower body.Fruit fliesFruit flies are attracted to rotting fruit or sweet smelling scraps in the bin. Fruit flies will normally be present in the bin, but if you have large numbers it can be unpleasant and indicate that the balance in the hungry bin has changed.Try burying your food scraps under the top layer. In addition, you can place a couple of layers of damp newspaper flat over the surface. Each of these helps to keep adult fruit flies from accessing the buried food, where they lay their eggs.MaggotsMaggots are the larvae of flies. There are many different kinds. The type you may see in your bin will depend on what you are feeding your worms, where you live and the time of year. While many people find maggots unpleasant, they will not harm you or your worms. In fact, they are good decomposers and, like the compost worms, will produce a high-quality casting.If you haven't added animal proteins, and don't have any foul odours in the bin, then it is likely the maggots you are seeing will be black soldier fly larvae. Once your bin has black soldier flies present, it can be difficult to get rid of them. It may be best to simply allow them to grow out of the larval stage (which they do quickly) and fly off. If you have large numbers present, harvest the worms and get rid of all your affected castings (put them in an outdoor compost pile, or bury them in the garden). Then put your worms back into fresh bedding.SlatersAlso known as pill bugs, sow bugs and woodlice. They are beneficial bugs in your bin helping to break down all the compostable material. If you wish to remove them, you could lay damp newspaper on top of the food scraps overnight, in the morning remove the paper with the slaters attached. If you have chickens, you could feed them the slaters. Slaters can also be an indication that the bin is dry so add some water to reduce their population.Red spider mitesRed spider mites are very common in worm bins. They are usually present when there is a source of bread and protein. These mites can be a problem if you find your worm population depleting. You can remove them by putting in food overnight that the mites are attracted to (like watermelon rind) then remove the next morning with the mites attached and wash them off. Repeat the process until you are satisfied with the result.EarwigsAlso known as pincher bugs, these are harmless creatures in the worm bin. They generally indicate a slightly acidic environment, which can be remedied easily by adding a handful of garden lime.White wormsAlso known as pot worms or grindle worms. They will not harm your worms but can be an indication that the bedding is too acidic. Add a handful of dolomite lime or garden lime.Centipedes/MillipedesThese little arthropods feed on composting material but are also known to feed on small insects including the odd worm. Best to evict these visitors as you see them. Watch out for their pincers!CockroachesThese omnivores are attracted to food scraps. Avoid putting in any meat products. They also like dark tight crevices so you could uncover the bin for periods of time, which will make the worms work at lower levels and discourage the cockroaches from taking up residence. However, keeping the lid on in the first place will prevent them entering. To get rid of cockroaches without using baits you could try a 1:1 mixture of baking soda and sugar. Spread it around the outside of the bin.Fruit flies3511550280035The food scraps you have placed in to your hungry bin are very attractive to a host of other critters, not just worms. Normally this is not a problem, but in the warmer months, fruit flies can be an issue. This is especially true if you are eating a lot of fruit like kiwi fruit or bananas which have high sugar levels.The best way to reduce the fruit flies present in your bin is to ensure that you are adding enough fiber to balance the acidity, and to cover the food with a layer of newspaper or leaves each time you feed your hungry bin. Sprinkling some dolomite lime on the top of the food will also help reduce the acidity that is attracting the fruit flies.3203575272415The level in the bin has droppedIf the level in your hungry bin has dropped, don't worry. it's an easy problem to solve. Just add some soil or finished compost each time you feed the hungry bin.Adding a sprinkling of finished compost to the bin to help raise the level of the bin. Harvesting: Castings should only be removed when the bin has become full to the top of the taper. Removing castings before the bin is full will affect how much food the bin can process. The bin needs to be at least ? full of finished castings to work most efficiently. This is to ensure the finished castings in the lower part of the bin have been cured completely, and are fully compacted. When the floor is removed, the shape of the bin means only the castings in the bottom part of the bin will fall out. When the castings have been properly compacted and had enough time to consolidate, they are largely free of worms and clump together, making them easy to remove and handle.If the floor is removed before the castings have become properly compacted, all the material present in the bin, including the worms, will fall out.?How to harvest castingsRemove the drip tray and pour any liquid there into a suitable container.Release the latches securing the floor to the lower body.Lower the floor from the bottom of the bin. The floor should be full of finished castings. Tip the floor upside down and tap sharply to knock out finished castings.If needed, clean the filter with a hose or some water.Replace the floor over the lower body and secure in place with the latches.Separate the worms from the castings and separate the casting from the uncomposted bedding material. In order to do this we use a two-step process: First we take the material to be sorted out of the bins and place on a sorting table. We divide the material into smaller manageable piles about 1 gallon size each. We have a fluorescent light overheard that causes the worms to go to the bottom of the piles. We then hand separate the majority of the worms from the piles by hand. The remaining material is placed in a rotating drum that we made from a 55 gallon plastic barrel with ? inch holes drilled in it and open on both ends. This is placed on a cart with 4 wheels that allow the drum to spin freely. The drum is on a slight angle and allows the bedding, worms and any unprocessed materials to fall out the end while the castings fall through the holes. We return the worms and unprocessed material back to a bin and store the castings in a bucket covered with a loose cloth in a cool damp place until it is ready to be used.Much of these castings will also have worm cocoons in them that may hatch out before you use the castings so it is always a good idea to look through it and pick out any baby worms before using. Some worms may be present in the castings. The worms can be easily separated from the castings by spreading them on the upturned lid, and placing it on top of the bin. The worms present will retreat from the light deeper into the castings and the top layer can be removed. The separated worms can then be tipped back into the bin.Plants have evolved to uptake the nutrients created by worms – their castings are one of the most beneficial fertilisers for plants. Castings are pH neutral, so are very safe to use with all plants. Even a small amount of castings or liquid added to soil will improve the performance of plants.They can be used in the same way you use compost, or heaped around plants. Pure castings may burn the roots of small plants if used undiluted. For use on smaller plants it may be necessary to mix the castings with other soil first.Counting Worms:457962060960It is important to occasionally get a count of how many worms are in a bin. Obviously, once you get to substantial numbers it is impossible to count every individual worm so we section off a part of the bin and count the worms in that section and multiply to get an approximate number. For example we will take a breeder bin and divide it into 8 equal parts. We then pull all the bedding and castings out of one section. We then sort and count all of the worms in that section. It is really important to be gentle during the counting as there will be hundreds of very small baby worms. After we get our count for the one section, we take that number and multiply by 8 to get an estimate of how many worms are in the bin. So if you had 3,500 worms in the section that you counted you can estimate that you have 28,000 worms in the bin. (3,500 x 8 = 28,000) If you feel that your numbers are not accurate you can count more than one section and take an average. The more sections you count the more accurate your average will be but you will find that it is far too time consuming to count multiple sections. Building Bins:One of the most crucial elements of successfully getting a worm program going is to continuously be adding surface area for the worms as the population grows. If you do not increase surface area the worm population will stop growing. The worms reach the maximum carrying capacity for the bins they are in and slow down breeding dramatically. This means that for the first couple of years the worm program is in a regular construction phase. Below is a brief description of each of the bins used:The breeder bins are quite simple and require very little carpentry skill. The flow through bins are more complex and require more advanced skills. Breeder Barrel Bins :These bins start as a plastic 208 liter drum. They are then cut in half lengthways so the caps are center on the half bin. A 2” x 4” x 20” piece of wood is then screwed across the back of the bin to keep it from rocking back and forth and tipping over. This piece should be flush to the bottom and the bins should be level before screwing in. You must use some caulk or rubber gaskets or the bin will leak at this point. The bins can be used just as they are on anything you want to set them on. We found that it was convenient to make a rack on wheels that holds 3 to 4 of the bins and we work them as a group.3410585281940As an added feature you can attach another 2” x 6” x 16” board under the front of the bin and place a large door hinge the connects the 2” x 6” to the rack. This allows the bins to be tilted up and is good for draining the bin if it gets too wet and is also helpful when you want to take all the material out of the bin. Flow through Bins :Numerous items that would normally be discarded can be re-purposed into flow through bins or you can make them from a set of plans. Two different styles of flow through bins using different recycled materials are explained herby. Several different materials have been used for the grate or screen at the bottom including heavy duty weed eater line woven like a tennis racket with 0.5cm holes and chain link fencing. The basic design is a large box with an angled chute at the bottom that allows the material to fall into containers placed under the bins. The bottoms of the chutes have some type of large (2” x 2”) screen at the bottom. Miscellaneous Bins (landry cart)323596070485The miscellaneous bins can be made out of just about anything that will hold material. The simplest bin can be made from a 208 Liter barrels with holes cut in the bottom for drainage and a cover made for the top. It is important to have a good cover as these bins tend to get a little ripe from time to time. Another great miscellaneous bin can be made from a discarded laundry cart bin. Simply drill some holes in one end at the bottom.The nice thing about the laundry cart bin is that if you have a problem bin or some extra food, you can put the material in it, cover it with a heavy layer of wet shredded newspaper and wheel it someplace out of the way and forget about it for a few weeks. It has the capacity to produce considerable number of worms, keeping moisture in and odor contained.Covers: Covers are important for the breeder bins and the miscellaneous bins. (The flow through bins have lids so no additional covers are needed.) The covers help with odor, retain moisture and help keep down fly infestations. For the laundry cart bins, we manufactured lightweight wooden covers that completely covered the bins and had a four inch lip that overhangs the bins. This provides extra protection as these bins tend to be fed heavier. 3839210130175Ventilation: Your bin should be well-ventilated, with several 3mm holes 100mm from the bottom (otherwise the worms will stay at the bottom of the bin and you may drown your worms). Size: The larger you make the container, the more worms it can sustain. Estimate 0.45kg of worms for every square foot of surface area. The maximum productive depth for your bin is 61cm deep because composting worms will not go further down than that.Cover: The bin should have a cover to prevent light from getting in and to prevent the compost from drying out. Choose or make a lid that can be removed if your compost is too wet. Use a canvas tarp, doubled over and bungee-corded on, or kept in place with wood. Burlap sacks also work well, and can be watered directly. 64833595885307784595885Guidelines on how to make a four-tire bin for household:Making a Home for Your Worms309308560325Obtain a worm bin. The worm bin is basically the home for the worms, and the place where they digest the organic material you will give them. If you don't want to buy a worm bin, you can also build one on your own. Use rubber storage plastic. Use four old car tires for a makeshift home. To make a four-tire wormery, create a base from old bricks or flagstones (must be flat and with as few cracks as possible). Place a layer of heavy newspaper on top of the bricks. Stuff four old tires with newspapers. Pi le the tires on top of each other, with the first tire on the Sunday newspaper. Put some scrunched up paper or cardboard in the bottom to soak up any excess liquid. Fill the entire wormery with organic material (semi -composted is best). Add the composting worms (tiger or brandling species are best). Use a piece of board weighed down with bricks as a lid. The lid must be bi g enough to stop rain getting in. Harvest a tire's worth of fertilizer roughly every 8 weeks (during warm months).Instructions for Getting the most out of your bin The hungry bin is a living ecosystem. It is important that ideal conditions are maintained in the bin for it to operate most efficiently. Maintaining ideal conditions in the bin is easy – simply follow these basic rules:1. Feed the bin a maximum layer of 2.5cm (1in) at any timeDo not overfeed your hungry bin. Spread the food evenly over the top layer of the bin. You should not feed the bin more than 2.5cm (1in) per day.?2. Uneaten food should be no more than 5cm (2in) deep at any timeDo not allow uneaten food to build up in the bin. If uneaten food has accumulated, it will begin to rot. Rotten food is acidic and putrid, and worms will not eat it.3. Add fibre and/or lime occasionally to help balance the acidity of the bin Adding some fibrous material such as shredded paper or cardboard, dead leaves, sawdust, old grass clippings (brown) or a sprinkling of lime or wood ash when you feed the bin will help reduce the acidity, and keep the bin smelling sweet.4. Avoid large quantities of processed and/or acidic food Processed food, like bread or pasta, can quickly become acidic as it decomposes. Large amounts of acidic foods such as lemon rinds, onion and fruit skins should also be avoided.5. Only harvest castings when the bin is full Castings should only be removed when the hungry bin has become full to the top of the taper.Signs of a healthy binWhen the bin is operating correctly, you should notice the following:Very little smellLarge numbers of worms including juvenile worms in the top layerGood quality worm castings and very little uneaten food approximately 30cm below the top layerThe liquid draining from the bin should be the colour of strong tea with little or no smellRisk managementDespite your best efforts disaster may strike. Usually this is because the bin has either been over fed or balanced incorrectly. Also, if the bin has been subjected to an extended period of temperatures over 35C (95F) or below freezing (0C or 32F) the worms may have died.The bin is rotten and smelly, and no live worms are presentIt is important to remove any rotting food from the bin as the anaerobic (oxygen-poor) conditions make it impossible for the worms to live. Remove all the rotting food from the bin and set aside. Keep any live worms present in a separate pile to reintroduce to the bin. Once all the rotting food is removed, add a layer of fresh bedding material and any live worms you have recovered. Add shredded paper or cardboard to the bedding to promote even better aeration, and to balance any excess nitrogen causing the rotten smells.If there are very few worms left, you may need to purchase or harvest more live worms. Restart feeding the bin as normal. It will take some time for the worm population to recover if a large proportion of the worm population has died.The floor was removed too early to harvest castings and contents have fallen out the bottomThe tapered shape of the hungry bin compresses the castings as they move down through the bin. When the floor is removed, only the castings at the very bottom of the bin should fall out, as the remainder are held in place by the shape of the bin. If the castings in the bin are not sufficiently compressed when the floor is removed, some, or all the material in the bin will fall out. Usually this happens because the floor has been removed too early, or before the castings or bedding material have become compressed.It is also an advantage to allow the bin to become full to the top with finished castings before removing the floor. A full bin is less likely to have problems as the volume of the castings helps moderate the bin, and prevent problems.If the contents have fallen out completely, reinstate back into the bin in the same order that they came out of the bin, with the oldest material to the bottom, and the live worms at the top.If only some of the material has fallen out, but the majority of the castings are still in the bin, replace the floor back onto the bin, and simply return the castings that have fallen out to the top of the bin. Placing finished castings in the top of the bin will not affect the worms present in the bin, but you may need to wait for the worms to migrate to the surface again before you can feed the bin at full capacity.The bin has fallen over and the contents have fallen outGet the bin back into an upright position. Reinstate the material that has fallen out – in the same order it came out in if possible – with finished castings toward the bottom and live worms on top. You may need to wait a few days before feeding the bin again as the worms will not all be present at the surface of the bin.ConclusionAfter we present this manual and from our experience in the field, we can conclude that the Vermiculture and Vermicomposting activity is such a worthwhile and exciting venture.1. Vermiculture is a substantial way of reducing wastes, producing fertilizers and maintaining the balance of the ecological environment; 2. Vermicomposting can produce high-quality fertilizers which are better compared to other commercial fertilizers in the market; 3. Vermiculture converts farm wastes into organic fertilizer, making it an environment-friendly technology; 4. Vermiculture increases crop yield and lessens dependence on chemical fertilizers thus mitigating climate change; 5. Vermiculture can be made into a livelihood program and become a source of extra income through selling the vermicast and also the vermi worms; 6. Taking worms out of their natural environment and placing them in the vermi beds creates a human responsibility. They are living creatures with their own unique needs, so it is important to create and maintain a healthy habitat for them to do their work. If you supply the right ingredients and care, your worms will thrive and make compost for you. Troubleshooting Examples: Trouble Possible Problem Remedy Bins smell like septic.Bins are too wet and have become anaerobic.Pull back bedding and castings to get to bottom of bins. Material will probably be muddy or have standing water. Add dry paper to bottom of bed and spread wet bedding and castings across top of paper. Cover with another layer of dry paper. Turn bed in the next couple of days.Worms are grouped at top of bins or trying to get out the sides in Large numbers.May even have worms on floor.Feed has started to compost and get hot. Probably from having too thick of a layer of food.Remove as many worms as possible to another bin. Push material to one side of bins and add wet newspaper to give remaining worms a place to go to. Do not feed bin until all material isconsumed. Bins smell like rottenvegetables. Too much feed in bin.If feed is not hot, add heavy layer of wet newspaper to top of bin covering whole bin to eliminate odor. Reduce feeding until food is consumed.Bins smell like sour milkor rotting meat. Wrong type of feed stockhas been added to bins. Remove top layer of bedding with as many worms as you can easily get and place material in another bin. Place remaining material in miscellaneous bin, cover well and put outside somewhere out of the way for 1 month. Material should be gone and many worms will have hatched out.Worms are slow moving and skinny. Bin may be too dry. Bedding is dry.Add water to top layer daily untilmoisture level is 80% - 90%Worms are stressed andpooling at sides of bin.Bin has become too acidic, possibly from too much citrus.Add a heavy layer of fresh wetshredded newspaper to give worms a place to go. Discontinue feeding until material is consumed.Examples of weekly management and follow up sheets Weekly Food and Paper intakeKilograms of food receivedPaper Picked up(m3)Week ofSatSunMonTuesWedThursTotal Food added(25 tea bins)2066 Lit.1.5 KgTotal food added (8 Flow through bins)2180 lit.1.6 kgWeekly average per bin 6.5lit.4.6 kgWeekly average per bin21 lit.15 kg-40005-1270Landry cart Bins (8)Total food added816 lit.588kgTotal food added91 lit65 kgWeekly Average per bin6.5 lit4.5kgTotal tea produced2090 lit.Casting harvested from all bins650 lit765 lbsMonthly totals for all binsTotal food waste processed1734 gal10,404 lbsTotal paper received and processed41 cu ft3,075 lbsTotal casting harvested170 gal765 lbsTotal tea produced560 galBeginning worm count1,400.000Ending worm count2,450.000Weekly Bin Managemnt-Flow Through BinsWeek of ------------------Quantity of Food added/KgNotesBin Name/#SaturdaySundayMondayTuesdayWednesdayThursdayFTB #1FTB #2FTB #3FTB #4FTB #5FTB #6FTB #7FTB #8FTB #9RecoveryTankWB# 1WB #2Weekly Bin Managemnt Week of ----------------Bin Type Quantity of food added per bin number12345678Weekly Bin Managemnt-Tea BinsWeek of ------------------Quantity of Food added/KgNotesBin Name/#SaturdaySundayMondayTuesdayWednesdayThursdayWeekly Tea Production and Casting HarvestedLitre of Vermicompost tea producedLitres of Casting for the weekWeek ofSaturdaySundayMondayTuesdayWednesdayThursdayList of RefrencesAtiyeh, R. M., S. Subler, C. A. Edwards; G. Bachman; J. D. Metzger and W. Shuster. 2000. Effects of vermicomposts and composts on plant growth in horticultural container media and soil. Pedobiologia, 44, pp: 579–590.Atiyeh, R. M.; N. Q. Arancon; S. Lee; C. A. Edwards. 2002. Effects of humic acids derived from cattle, food and paper-waste vermicomposts on growth of greenhouse plants. Pedobiologia 47, 741–744.Pareek, D. 2010. Economics of Vermiculture and Vermicomposting Project through Earthworm Eco-Technology, pp: 1-3 Medany, M. 2011. Vermiculture in Egypt: Current Development and Future PotentialMunroe, G. 2007. Manual of On-Farm Vermicomposting and Vermiculture. Organic Agriculture Centre of Canada: . Nagavallemma KP, Wani SP, Stephane Lacroix, Padmaja VV, Vineela C, Babu Rao M and Sahrawat KL. 2004. Vermicomposting: Recycling wastes into valuable organic fertilizer. Global Theme on Agrecosystems Report no. 8. Patancheru 502 324, Andhra Pradesh, India: International Crops Research Institute for the Semi-Arid Tropics. 20 pp.Suthar, S. 2010. Pilot-scale vermireactors for sewage sludge stabilization and metal remediation process: Comparison with small-scale vermireactors. Ecological Engineering, Volume 36, Issue 5, pp: 703-712.Twomlow, S. 2004. Water, soil and agro-diversity management for ecosystem resilience, annual report 2003, International Crops Research Institute for the Semi-Arid Tropics ICRISAT, Patancheru 502 324, Andhra Pradesh, India.Venkatesh, R. M. and T. Eevera. 2008. “Mass reduction and recovery of nutrients through vermicomposting of fly ash,” applied ecology and environmental research, 6, pp: 77–84.Websites: Wikipedia (2010). Eisenia Foetida. Retrieved on October 2, 2010 from wiki/Eisenia_foetida. County Home Composting Page ................
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