CHOICE #81 CARPENTER



CHOICE #81 CARPENTER

STUDENT MANUAL

IINTRODUCTION PART I

AT THIS MODULE YOU WILL HAVE A HANDS-ON CAREER

EXPLORATION EXPERIENCE AS A CARPENTER. YOU

WILL USE SOME OF THE SAME TOOLS AND MATERIALS

AS A CARPENTER TO DO THE FOLLOWING ACTIVITIES:

1. READ AND INTERPRET A BLUEPRINT.

2. MEASURE AND CUT THE STUDS, PLATES, AND

3. FIRE-STOPS USED IN A STANDARD FRAME WALL.

4. LAY OUT THE PARTS OF THE FRAME WALL AND

NAIL THEM TOGETHER.

5. TILT UP THE CONSTRUCTION WALL.

6. CHECK THE WALL TO BE SURE IT IS VERTICAL

(PLUMB).

7. NAIL THE WALL IN PLACE, AND INSTALL

FIRE-STOPS.

8. DISASSEMBLE THE WALL AS A CARPENTER

REMODELING EXPERIENCE.

YOU MAY ALSO:

COMPUTE BOARD FEET AND LUMBER LENGTHS.

BEFORE BEGINNING THESE ACTIVITIES, YOU WILL

FIRST LEARN ABOUT A CAREER AS A CARPENTER.

CARPENTERS CONVERT STACKS OF LUMBER INTO

HOUSES AND BUILDINGS. THESE SKILLED BUILDERS

ARE EMPLOYED IN ALMOST EVERY TYPE OF

CONSTRUCTION ACTIVITY.

CARPENTERS BUILD THE FRAMEWORK OF BUILDINGS,

LAY FLOORS, AND BUILD STAIRS. CARPENTERS USE

HAND TOOLS SUCH AS HAMMERS, SAWS, PLANES, AND

CHISELS. THEY USE POWER TOOLS SUCH AS ELECTRIC

SAWS, DRILLS, RIVET GUNS, AND GLUE GUNS.

PAGE 2

MOST CARPENTERS ARE EMPLOYED BY CONTRACTORS

AND HOME BUILDERS. ALSO, MANY DO MAINTENANCE

WORK IN FACTORIES, HOTELS, AND OFFICE BUILDINGS.

GOOD PHYSICAL CONDITION, A GOOD SENSE OF

BALANCE, AND LACK OF FEAR OF WORKING ON HIGH

STRUCTURES ARE IMPORTANT.

CARPENTERS SHOULD BE ABLE TO WORK SKILLFULLY

WITH THEIR HANDS. THEY MUST ALSO BE ABLE TO

SOLVE ARITHMETIC PROBLEMS QUICKLY. WORKING

OUTDOORS MOST OF THE TIME, THEY CLIMB, STOOP,

KNEEL, BALANCE, AND CRAWL. IT IS OFTEN NOISY

AND DIRTY.

PAGE 3

TO BECOME A CARPENTER, MOST TRAINING AUTHORITIES

RECOMMEND THE COMPLETION OF A FOUR-YEAR

APPRENTICESHIP PROGRAM. HOWEVER, THERE ARE OTHER

TRAINING ALTERNATIVES. THESE ALTERNATIVES INCLUDE

VOCATIONAL/TECHNICAL SCHOOL AND ON-THE-JOB

TRAINING.

THE EMPLOYMENT OUTLOOK FOR CARPENTERS THROUGH

THE MID 1990'S IS EXCELLENT.

THE NUMBER OF OPENINGS MAY VARY FROM YEAR TO

YEAR BECAUSE OF UPS AND DOWNS IN THE CONSTRUCTION

INDUSTRY. BUT IN THE LONG RUN, POPULATION AND

BUSINESS GROWTH WILL LEAD TO A DEMAND FOR MORE

HOMES AND OTHER STRUCTURES. MORE CARPENTERS

WILL BE NEEDED FOR THIS AS WELL AS FOR

ALTERATION AND MAINTENANCE WORK.

PAGE 4

NOW THAT YOU HAVE BEEN PRESENTED A FEW FACTS ABOUT A CAREER AS A CARPENTER, DO YOU THINK YOU WOULD WANT TO DO THAT TYPE OF WORK FOR A LIVING?

TAKE THE INTEREST CHECK SHEET FROM THE CLIPBOARD AT YOUR WORK STATION, AND FILL IN YOUR NAME AND TODAY'S DATE. CHECK YOUR ANSWER TO QUESTION #1 (NO,

I WOULDN'T; MAYBE; OR YES, I WOULD), AND CALL YOUR EVALUATOR.

(OBSERVATION POINT #1)

PAGE 5

ON THE SAME CLIPBOARD IS A WORK SHEET. REFER TO THIS WORK SHEET AS IT IS REVIEWED WITH YOU.

1. WALL PLAN. THIS IS THE "BLUEPRINT" OF THE

WALL YOU ARE GOING TO CONSTRUCT. ALL MEASUREMENTS

ARE GIVEN BUT THE STUD LENGTH (X) AND WALL HEIGHT

(Y). YOU WILL BE COMPUTING X AND Y.

2. WALL HEIGHT TABLE. THE BOXES IN THIS TABLE,

WHEN FILLED IN BY YOU, WILL ASSIST YOU IN

COMPUTING X AND Y.

3. FILL IN THE TOP LINE WITH YOUR NAME AND DATE.

PAGE 6

YOU WILL BE USING 2 X 4'S TO COMPLETE THIS JOB.

"TWO-BY-FOUR" (2 X 4) IS A NAME FOR THE SIZE

OF BOARD USED FOR FRAMING WALLS. THESE BOARDS

WERE 2" BY 4" WHEN FLAT SLICED. PLANING REDUCED

THE 2" BY 4" TO 1 1/2" BY 3 1/2". THE SAME PROCESS

THAT TAKES PLACE FOR ALL STANDARD LUMBER SIZES.

GET YOUR LUMBER, AND PLACE THE BOARDS OF THE

SAME LENGTH TOGETHER.

STOP THE TAPE, AND GET YOUR LUMBER.

PAGE 7

YOU WILL NOW HAVE AN OPPORTUNITY TO PERFORM

SOME OF THE TASKS DONE BY A CARPENTER IN THE

WORLD OF WORK.

THE TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT YOU WILL BE USING ARE:

HAND SAW

CROWBAR

TAPE MEASURE

LEVEL

CURVED CLAW HAMMER

FRAMING SQUARE

SAW HORSES

CARPENTER'S APRON

STOP THE TAPE, AND LOCATE THE TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT.

IF YOU CANNOT LOCATE ANY OF THE TOOLS OR EQUIPMENT,

CALL YOUR EVALUATOR.

(OBSERVATION POINT #2)

PAGE 8

BEFORE BEGINNING THE FIRST TASK, PUT THE

CARPENTER'S APRON ON TO KEEP YOUR CLOTHES

FROM GETTING DIRTY.

CHECK TO BE SURE THAT THERE ARE NAILS AND

A CARPENTER'S PENCIL INSIDE THE APRON POCKETS.

IF NOT, CALL YOUR EVALUATOR.

(OBSERVATION POINT #3)

PAGE 9

AS YOU READ THIS PAGE, LOOK OVER THE BLUEPRINT.

HOMES AND BUILDINGS ARE USUALLY DESIGNED BY

ARCHITECTS. DETAILED DRAWINGS OF THE DESIGN

ARE THEN MADE BY DRAFTERS AND SOMETIMES BY

ILLUSTRATORS. THESE DRAWINGS SHOW WHAT THE

STRUCTURE WILL LOOK LIKE, HOW IT WILL BE

BUILT, WHAT MATERIALS TO USE, AND IMPORTANT

MEASUREMENTS. COPIES OR "BLUEPRINTS" OF

THESE DRAWINGS OR "PLANS" ARE USED BY BUILDERS

TO GUIDE THEM IN MAKING THE FINISHED STRUCTURE.

A CARPENTER WOULD WORK WITH A DRAWING LIKE THE

ONE ON THIS PAGE. THIS BLUEPRINT IS THE FLOOR

PLAN OF A HOUSE.

PAGE 10

GET THE TAPE MEASURE.

THE PARTS OF THE TAPE MEASURE ARE SHOWN. THE

STEEL TAPE WINDS INTO THE CASE WHEN NOT IN

USE. THE HOOK IS USED TO HOLD THE END OF THE

TAPE IN PLACE WHEN MAKING "OUTSIDE" MEASUREMENTS.

WHEN MAKING "INSIDE" MEASUREMENTS, THE

LENGTH OF THE CASE (2") CAN BE ADDED TO THE

MEASUREMENT ON THE TAPE TO GIVE THE TOTAL

MEASUREMENT.

DO NOT BEND THE STEEL TAPE TOO SHARPLY. IT

MAY BREAK IF YOU DO. TO KEEP THE TAPE FROM

SLIPPING BACK INTO THE CASE BEFORE YOU ARE

THROUGH USING IT, HOLD YOUR THUMB IN THE

GROOVE AS SHOWN.

PAGE 11

USE THE TAPE MEASURE TO FIND THE TWO BOARDS

YOU LAID ON THE SUBFLOOR CLOSEST TO 32" (BUT

NOT SHORTER). THESE BOARDS WILL BECOME THE

TOP PLATE AND THE SOLE PLATE.

STOP THE TAPE, AND FIND THE TWO BOARDS CLOSEST

TO 32".

GET THE CARPENTER'S PENCIL.

THE CARPENTER'S PENCIL IS FLAT SO IT WILL HOLD

ITS POINT LONGER AND MAKE A DARKER LINE. WHEN

YOU USE THE PENCIL TO MARK A MEASUREMENT, MAKE

AS THIN A LINE AS POSSIBLE, AND BE SURE THE LINE

IS EXACTLY ON THE CORRECT MEASUREMENT.

PAGE 12

USE THE TAPE MEASURE AND CARPENTER'S PENCIL

TO MARK OFF 32" FROM THE END OF EACH BOARD

(PLATE) AS SHOWN.

STOP THE TAPE, AND MARK THE BOARDS.

MEASURE THE THICKNESS OF EACH BOARD (PLATE)

AND WRITE THE MEASUREMENT IN BOX A AND B

OF THE WORK SHEET.

STOP THE TAPE, MEASURE AND RECORD THE THICKNESS

OF EACH BOARD (PLATE), AND CALL YOUR EVALUATOR.

(OBSERVATION POINT #4)

PAGE 13

USE THE TAPE MEASURE TO FIND THE TWO BOARDS

CLOSEST TO 13 3/4" LONG (BUT NOT SHORTER).

STOP THE TAPE, AND FIND THE TWO BOARDS.

USE THE TAPE MEASURE AND CARPENTER'S PENCIL

TO MARK OFF 13 3/4" FROM THE END OF EACH

FIRE-STOP.

STOP THE TAPE, MEASURE AND MARK THE TWO

FIRE-STOPS.

PAGE 14

FOR THE STUDS IN YOUR WALL, YOU WILL NEED

THREE BOARDS. THEY MUST ALL BE CUT TO THE SAME

LENGTH. LOCATE THE THREE LONGEST BOARDS.

USE THE TAPE MEASURE TO FIND THE LENGTH OF

EACH BOARD (THEY SHOULD ALL BE THE SAME), AND

WRITE YOUR MEASUREMENT IN BOX C ON THE WORK

SHEET.

STOP THE TAPE, MEASURE, AND RECORD THE STUD

LENGTH.

NOW ON YOUR WORK SHEET, SUBTRACT THE NUMBER IN

BOX D FROM THE NUMBER IN BOX C, AND ENTER

YOUR RESULT IN BOX X. THIS WILL GIVE YOU

THE LENGTH THE STUD IN YOUR WALL WILL BE (THE

X DIMENSION ON THE DRAWING OF THE WALL PLAN).

STOP THE TAPE, AND ENTER YOUR ANSWER IN BOX X

ON YOUR WORK SHEET.

PAGE 15

NOW, ADD THE FIGURES IN BOX A, BOX B,

AND BOX X. WRITE YOUR ANSWER IN BOX Y

ON THE WORK SHEET. THIS SHOULD GIVE YOU

THE HEIGHT OF THE WALL YOU WILL BUILD.

STOP THE TAPE, AND COMPLETE THIS TASK.

PAGE 16

WRITE THE MEASUREMENTS IN BOX X AND Y NEAR THE X AND Y ON THE WALL PLAN FOUND ON YOUR WORK SHEET.

YOU NOW HAVE ALL THE MEASUREMENTS YOU NEED TO CUT THE PARTS OF YOUR WALL. CARPENTERS FREQUENTLY MAKE CALCULATIONS OF THIS KIND.

STOP THE TAPE, AND CALL YOUR EVALUATOR.

(OBSERVATION POINT #5)

PAGE 17

FIND BOX X ON YOUR WALL PLAN. THIS IS THE

MEASUREMENT THAT YOU WILL USE TO MEASURE THE

STUDS.

USE THE TAPE MEASURE AND PENCIL TO MARK THIS

MEASUREMENT ON THE STUDS.

STOP THE TAPE, AND MARK THE THREE STUDS AT

THIS TIME.

PAGE 18

TAKE THE FRAMING SQUARE OUT OF THE TOOL BOX.

YOU WILL USE THE FRAMING SQUARE TO MARK

CUTTING LINES.

LAY THE FRAMING SQUARE ON THE MEASUREMENT MARK

YOU MADE AND AGAINST THE EDGE OF THE BOARD AS

SHOWN.

USE THE CARPENTER'S PENCIL TO DRAW A LINE ALONG

THE EDGE OF THE SQUARE ON THE MEASUREMENT MARK.

DO THIS FOR THE TWO PLATES, THREE STUDS, AND TWO

FIRE-STOPS YOU HAVE ALREADY MARKED.

STOP THE TAPE, MARK THE SEVEN BOARDS, THEN CALL

YOUR EVALUATOR.

(OBSERVATION POINT #6)

PAGE 19

TAKE ONE SAWHORSE OUT OF THE TOOL HOLDER.

SET IT UPRIGHT (LEGS DOWN) ON THE FLOOR.

UNFOLD THE SAWHORSE.

HOOK THE MOVEABLE BRACE OVER THE HOLDING

SCREW.

DO THE SAME FOR THE OTHER SAWHORSE.

STOP THE TAPE, AND SET UP THE SAWHORSES.

PAGE 20

SAWHORSES ARE USED TO LAY BOARDS ON FOR SAWING.

CARPENTERS OFTEN LAY BOARDS THEY ARE WORKING

WITH ON SAWHORSES. THEY HOLD THE BOARDS DOWN

WITH A HAND AND KNEE AS SHOWN.

PAGE 21

TAKE THE HAND SAW OUT OF THE TOOL BOX.

GET A BOARD YOU HAVE MARKED FOR CUTTING.

LAY THE BOARD ON THE SAWHORSES SO THE

GUIDELINE IS ABOUT FIVE INCHES OUT FROM

THE END.

NOTE: LISTEN AND READ THE FOLLOWING

INSTRUCTIONS BEFORE SAWING.

TO BEGIN SAWING, PUT THE SAW ON THE GUIDELINE

AT THE EDGE OF THE BOARD. HOLD IT AT THE

ANGLE SHOWN. PULL THE SAW BACK, KEEPING IT IN

LINE WITH YOUR THUMB. LIFT THE SAW, MOVE IT

FORWARD, LET IT DOWN ON THE WOOD, AND PULL IT

DOWN AGAIN. DO THIS UNTIL THE GROOVE IS DEEP

ENOUGH THAT THE SAW WON'T JUMP OUT WHEN YOU

PUSH IT FORWARD.

THE TEETH OF THE SAW CUT WHEN YOU PUSH IT

FORWARD AND DOWN. ON THIS FORWARD STROKE, YOU

DON'T HAVE TO PRESS DOWN ON THE SAW. THE WEIGHT

OF THE BLADE IS ALL THE PRESSURE NEEDED. HOLD

THE SAW SO THAT THE TEETH ARE AT THE ANGLE

SHOWN. THE BLADE SHOULD BE STRAIGHT UP AND DOWN.

PAGE 22

IF THE GROOVE STARTS GETTING OFF THE

GUIDELINE, MOVE IT BACK BY TWISTING (NOT BENDING)

THE HANDLE OF THE SAW SLIGHTLY AS YOU CONTINUE

SAWING.

AS YOU GET NEAR THE END OF THE CUT, USE ONE

HAND TO HOLD UP THE END OF THE BOARD THAT IS

NOT SUPPORTED. OTHERWISE, THE UNSUPPORTED END

OF THE BOARD WILL SPLINTER AND BREAK OFF,

LEAVING A RAGGED EDGE.

PAGE 23

CHECK THE GROOVE ON THE SIDES OF THE BOARD AS WELL AS THE TOP TO BE SURE THE CUT IS STRAIGHT AND SQUARE. REMEMBER TO HOLD UP THE UNSUPPORTED END OF THE BOARD AS YOU ARE ABOUT TO FINISH THE CUT.

NOW, SAW ALONG THE GUIDELINE UNTIL YOU HAVE CUT COMPLETELY THROUGH THE BOARD.

STOP THE TAPE, SAW THE BOARD, THEN CALL YOUR EVALUATOR.

(OBSERVATION POINT #7)

NOW CUT THE REMAINING SIX BOARDS, AND RETURN THE SAW AND SAWHORSES TO THE TOOL HOLDER.

STOP THE TAPE, CUT THE BOARDS, RETURN THE TOOLS, AND CALL YOUR EVALUATOR.

(OBSERVATION POINT #8)

PAGE 24

GET A PLATE (MIDDLE-SIZE BOARD). IGNORE

ANY PENCIL LINES THAT ARE ALREADY ON THE

WOOD.

LAY THE PLATE FLAT ON THE SUBFLOOR.

GET THE PENCIL AND FRAMING SQUARE.

LAY THE FRAMING SQUARE SO THE OUTER EDGE OF

THE WIDE LEG OF THE SQUARE LINES UP WITH

THE END OF THE PLATE AS SHOWN.

PAGE 25

DRAW A LINE ACROSS THE PLATE WITH THE PENCIL ALONG THE INNER EDGE OF THE WIDE LEG OF THE SQUARE.

LINE THE SQUARE UP, AND MARK THE OTHER END OF THE PLATE THE SAME WAY.

STOP THE TAPE, AND MARK THE PLATES.

DO THE SAME FOR THE OTHER PLATE.

STOP THE TAPE, MARK THE OTHER PLATE, THEN CALL YOUR EVALUATOR.

(OBSERVATION POINT #9)

PAGE 26

GET THE TAPE MEASURE.

MEASURE IN FROM THE END OF A PLATE 15 1/4".

USE THE PENCIL TO MARK THIS MEASUREMENT ON

THE PLATE.

STOP THE TAPE, MARK THE BOARD.

LAY THE EDGE OF THE WIDE LEG OF THE FRAMING

SQUARE ON THIS MARK SO THE OTHER EDGE OF

THIS LEG IS AWAY FROM THE END OF THE PLATE

YOU MEASURED FROM.

PAGE 27

HOLD THE SQUARE IN PLACE, AND MAKE A LINE WITH THE PENCIL ON THE PLATE ALONG BOTH EDGES OF THE WIDE LEG OF THE FRAMING SQUARE.

WRITE AN X BETWEEN EACH PAIR OF GUIDELINES. CARPENTER'S DO THIS TO SHOW WHERE THE STUDS WILL GO.

NOTE: BE SURE THESE MIDDLE MARKS ARE ON THE SAME SIDE OF THE BOARD AS THE MARKS YOU MADE AT THE ENDS OF THE BOARD.

STOP THE TAPE, DRAW LINES, AND MARK X BETWEEN GUIDELINES.

MEASURE AND MARK THE OTHER PLATE IN THE SAME WAY, AND CALL YOUR EVALUATOR.

(OBSERVATION POINT #10)

PAGE 28

SET A PLATE ON ITS EDGE AT THE END OF THE

SUBFLOOR. (YOU MAY SET THE PLATE AGAINST

THE BRACING BOARD IF YOU WANT). THE

POSITIONING MARKS ON THE PLATES SHOULD FACE

INWARD.

GET THE STUDS AND LAY THE STUDS ONTO THEIR

EDGES.

SLIDE THE ENDS OF THE STUDS AGAINST THE

PLATE. THE ENDS OF THE STUDS SHOULD BE

WITHIN THE POSITIONING MARKS YOU MADE ON

THE PLATE.

STOP THE TAPE, AND POSITION THE PLATE AND

STUDS.

PAGE 29

SET THE OTHER PLATE ON ITS EDGE, AND SLIDE IT

AGAINST THE OPPOSITE ENDS OF THE STUDS. BE

SURE THE ENDS ARE WITHIN THE POSITIONING LINES

FOR THE STUDS. ALSO, BE SURE THE MARKS ON THE

PLATES LINE UP WITH THE MARKS ON THE OTHER

PLATE. IF THEY LINE UP, THE MIDDLE STUD

WILL BE STRAIGHT.

STOP THE TAPE, POSITION THE PLATE, AND CALL

YOUR EVALUATOR.

(OBSERVATION POINT #11)

PAGE 30

NOW THAT YOU HAVE LAID OUT THE WALL, YOU WILL USE THE HAMMER AND NAILS TO FASTEN THE PARTS TOGETHER.

OF THE MANY VARIETY OF NAILS, YOU WILL BE USING TWO: THE BOX NAIL AND THE DOUBLE-HEAD NAIL TO FASTEN YOUR WALL TO THE OTHER WALL AND THE SUBFLOOR.

PAGE 31

WHEN STARTING A NAIL INTO WOOD, HOLD IT WITH

A COUPLE OF FINGERS, AND HIT IT LIGHTLY WITH

THE HEAD OF THE HAMMER. WHEN THE NAIL CAN

STAND INTO THE WOOD BY ITSELF, LET GO, AND

POUND IT IN WITH HEAVIER BLOWS. BE SURE THE

HAMMER STRIKES THE HEAD OF THE NAIL SQUARELY.

OTHERWISE, THE NAIL WILL GO IN CROOKED OR

BEND.

NOTE: BE CAREFUL NOT TO HIT YOUR FINGERS

WITH THE HAMMER!

IF YOU SHOULD NEED TO REMOVE A BENT NAIL, THE

CURVED CLAW IS USED TO PULL NAILS OUT OF THE

WOOD. IT WORKS LIKE A LEVEL AS SHOWN. SOME-

TIMES A BLOCK PLACED UNDER THE HAMMER HEAD

WILL GIVE ADDED LEVERAGE AND HELP THE NAILS

STAY STRAIGHT SO THEY CAN BE USED AGAIN.

PAGE 32

GET THE HAMMER.

USE THE HAMMER TO DRIVE BOX NAILS THROUGH A

PLATE INTO THE ENDS OF THE STUDS. DRIVE TWO

NAILS INTO THE END OF EACH STUD IN THE

POSITIONS SHOWN.

ATTACH THE OTHER PLATE TO THE OPPOSITE ENDS

OF THE STUDS, DRIVE TWO NAILS FOR EACH STUD.

NOTE: BRACE THE ENDS OF THE WALL AGAINST

THE BRACING BOARD ON THE SUBFLOOR TO HOLD

THE BOARDS STEADY FOR NAILING. TURN THE

WALL OVER SO THE OTHER PLATE CAN BE BRACED

AGAINST IT BY TILTING THE WALL UP AND OVER.

STOP THE TAPE, NAIL THE BOARDS, THEN CALL YOUR

EVALUATOR.

(OBSERVATION POINT #12)

PAGE 33

TAKE THE LEVEL OUT OF THE TOOL BOX.

THE LEVEL IS USED BY CARPENTERS TO CHECK THAT

BUILDING COMPONENTS ARE EXACTLY STRAIGHT UP

AND DOWN OR EXACTLY SIDEWAYS. WHEN A WALL IS

EXACTLY STRAIGHT UP AND DOWN, IT IS CALLED

"PLUMB".

WHEN THE BUBBLE LINES UP BETWEEN THE LINES ON

THE LEVEL, THINGS ARE EITHER STRAIGHT UP AND

DOWN, OR SIDEWAYS--DEPENDING ON WHICH WAY THE

BODY OF THE LEVEL IS POSITIONED.

LEAN THE LEVEL AGAINST THE ALREADY STANDING

WALL SO YOU CAN REACH IT EASILY.

PAGE 34

TILT THE WALL UP AS SHOWN.

SLIDE IT INTO POSITION AGAINST THE ALREADY

STANDING WALL AS SHOWN ON THE BLUEPRINT.

WHILE HOLDING THE WALL UPRIGHT, GET THE LEVEL.

PLACE THE LEVEL AGAINST A STUD AS SHOWN.

WHILE HOLDING THE LEVEL AGAINST THE STUD, MOVE

THE WALL UNTIL THE BUBBLE IN THE LEVEL SHOWS

THAT THE WALL IS EXACTLY STRAIGHT UP AND DOWN.

MAKE A SMALL MARK ON THE ALREADY STANDING WALL

WITH THE PENCIL AS SHOWN. USE THE EDGE OF THE

WALL YOU BUILT AS A GUIDE FOR THE PENCIL.

(IGNORE ANY OTHER PENCIL MARKS).

PAGE 35

STOP THE TAPE, MARK THE WALL, AND RETURN THE

LEVEL TO THE TOOL HOLDER.

HOLDING THE WALL WITH ONE HAND, GET A

DOUBLE-HEAD NAIL FROM THE APRON.

USE THE HAMMER TO DRIVE THE NAIL THROUGH THE

CORNER STUD OF YOUR WALL INTO THE EDGE OF THE

OUTSIDE CORNER STUD OF THE ALREADY STANDING

WALL. BE SURE THE EDGE OF YOUR WALL IS LINED

UP WITH THE MARK YOU MADE WHEN THE WALL WAS

STRAIGHT UP AND DOWN (PLUMB). DRIVE THE

NAIL ONLY AS DEEP AS THE LOWER HEAD.

STOP THE TAPE, DRIVE THE NAIL, THEN CALL YOUR

EVALUATOR.

(OBSERVATION POINT #13)

PAGE 36

MOVE THE WALL SO THE OTHER EDGE OF THE BOTTOM

PLATE IS IN LINE WITH THE OUTER EDGE OF THE

SUBFLOOR AS SHOWN. TAP THE BOTTOM PLATE

LIGHTLY WITH THE HAMMER TO MOVE THE WALL INTO

THE PROPER POSITION.

DRIVE A DOUBLE-HEAD NAIL THROUGH THE BOTTOM

PLATE AND SUBFLOOR INTO THE FLOOR JOIST AS

SHOWN IN THE DIAGRAM.

REMEMBER TO DRIVE THE DOUBLE-HEAD NAIL ONLY

AS DEEP AS THE LOWER HEAD.

STOP THE TAPE, AND DRIVE THE NAIL.

DRIVE SIX MORE DOUBLE-HEAD NAILS INTO THE

BOTTOM PLATE AND CORNER STUD OF YOUR WALL IN

THE SAME POSITION AS SHOWN IN THE LARGE DIAGRAM.

STOP THE TAPE, DRIVE THE NAILS.

PAGE 37

GET THE TAPE MEASURE.

MEASURE THE TOTAL HEIGHT OF YOUR WALL. THIS MEASUREMENT SHOULD BE THE SAME AS BOX Y OF YOUR WORK SHEET.

STOP THE TAPE, COMPARE MEASUREMENTS, AND CALL YOUR EVALUATOR.

(OBSERVATION POINT #14)

PAGE 38

FIND THE NUMBER BY THE X ON THE WALL PLAN

OF YOUR WORK SHEET. DIVIDE IT BY TWO.

NOTE: IF YOU ARE UNSURE HOW TO DO THIS,

CALL YOUR EVALUATOR.

(OBSERVATION POINT #15)

STOP THE TAPE, AND DO THE PROBLEM.

USING THE TAPE MEASURE AND PENCIL, MEASURE UP

FROM THE TOP SIDE OF THE BOTTOM PLATE AS SHOWN

IN THE DIAGRAM, THE DISTANCE EQUAL TO YOUR

ANSWER.

MARK THE INSIDE EDGES OF THE THREE STUDS AS

SHOWN IN THE DIAGRAM.

STOP THE TAPE, MEASURE AND MARK THE BOARDS,

AND RETURN THE TAPE MEASURE TO THE TOOL HOLDER.

PAGE 39

GET THE FRAMING SQUARE.

USE THE FRAMING SQUARE AND PENCIL TO MARK

GUIDELINES ACROSS THE STUDS USING THE LINES

YOU JUST MADE.

STOP THE TAPE, AND DRAW THE GUIDELINES.

ON ONE SIDE OF THE CENTER STUD, USE THE WIDE

LEG OF THE SQUARE AND PENCIL TO MARK A STUD

GUIDELINE (1 1/2") ABOVE YOUR FIRST GUIDELINE.

THEN MARK ANOTHER STUD GUIDELINE ON THE STUD

OPPOSITE THE SIDE OF THE CENTER STUD YOU JUST

MARKED.

STOP THE TAPE, AND MARK THE GUIDELINES.

PAGE 40

NOW MARK THE OTHER SIDE OF THE CENTER STUD

(1 1/2") BELOW YOUR FIRST GUIDELINE, AND STUD

OPPOSITE THIS MARK.

NOTE: REFER TO DIAGRAM.

STOP THE TAPE, MARK GUIDELINES, RETURN

FRAMING SQUARE AND PENCIL, THEN CALL YOUR

EVALUATOR.

(OBSERVATION POINT #16)

PAGE 41

GET THE HAMMER AND ONE FIRE-STOP.

LINE THE FIRE-STOP UP BETWEEN THE GUIDELINES

AND NAIL IT THROUGH THE STUD WITH TWO BOX NAILS

IN EACH END.

DO THE SAME FOR THE OTHER FIRE-STOP.

NOTE: THE FIRE-STOP END AGAINST THE CORNER

STUD MUST BE "TOENAILED" AS SHOWN.

STOP THE TAPE, PUT IN THE FIRE-STOPS, AND MAKE

SURE ALL TOOLS ARE RETURNED TO THE TOOL HOLDER,

THEN CALL YOUR EVALUATOR.

(OBSERVATION POINT #17)

PAGE 42

YOU WILL NOW TEAR DOWN THE WALL YOU HAVE BUILT

AS A REMODELING EXPERIENCE AS A CARPENTER, AND

PREPARE THIS WORK STATION FOR THE NEXT STUDENT.

TO REMOVE THE DOUBLE-HEAD NAILS, YOU WILL USE

A CROWBAR.

GET THE CROWBAR FROM THE TOOL BOX.

USE THE CROWBAR AS SHOWN TO PULL OUT THE

DOUBLE-HEAD NAILS THAT HOLD THE BOTTOM PLATE

OF YOUR WALL TO THE SUBFLOOR.

STOP THE TAPE, AND PULL OUT ALL OF THE

DOUBLE-HEAD NAILS FROM THE BOTTOM PLATE.

PAGE 43

NOW USE THE CROWBAR TO PRY OUT THE NAILS

HOLDING YOUR WALL TO THE ALREADY STANDING

WALL.

NOTE: PULL THE LOWER NAILS OUT FIRST,

THEN PULL OUT THE UPPER NAILS.

AS YOU PULL THE LAST NAIL OUT,

HOLD ON TO THE WALL TO BE SURE

IT DOESN'T TIP OVER.

WHILE HOLDING YOUR WALL WITH ONE HAND, SET

THE CROWBAR DOWN ON THE SUBFLOOR WITH THE

OTHER HAND.

CAREFULLY TILT YOUR WALL BACK DOWN UNTIL IT

LIES FLAT ON THE SUBFLOOR.

STOP THE TAPE, PRY OUT THE NAILS, AND

CAREFULLY TILT THE WALL DOWN ONTO THE

SUBFLOOR.

PAGE 44

GET THE HAMMER.

USE THE HAMMER TO KNOCK A PLATE AWAY FROM THE

STUDS OF YOUR WALL AS SHOWN. THE PLATE SHOULD

BE COMPLETELY SEPARATED FROM THE STUDS.

DO THE SAME FOR THE OTHER PLATE.

NOTE: PUT YOUR FOOT ON THE STUD YOU ARE

HAMMERING CLOSEST TO. THIS WILL

KEEP THE STUD FROM MOVING WHEN YOU

HIT AGAINST THE SOLE PLATE ATTACHED

TO IT. BE CAREFUL AS YOU SWING THE

HAMMER, KEEP YOUR LEGS AND FINGERS

OUT OF THE HAMMER'S PATH.

STOP THE TAPE, AND KNOCK THE PLATES AWAY FROM

THE STUDS.

PAGE 45

REST A PLATE ON THE STUDS SO THE POINTS OF THE

NAILS ARE POINTING UP. BE CAREFUL NOT TO STEP

ON NAILS OR GOUGE YOUR HANDS ON THEM!

USE THE HAMMER TO POUND THE NAILS BACK THROUGH

THE BOARD (DO NOT REMOVE THEM YET). HIT THE

NAILS ON THEIR POINTS. DO THE SAME FOR THE

OTHER PLATE.

STOP THE TAPE, AND POUND THE NAILS THROUGH THE

BOARD.

TURN THE PLATE OVER, AND SET IT ON THE STUDS SO

THE HEADS OF THE NAILS ARE UP.

GET THE CROWBAR, AND USE IT TO PRY THE NAILS THE

REST OF THE WAY OUT OF THE PLATE.

DO THE SAME FOR THE OTHER PLATE.

NOTE: USE YOUR FOOT TO BRACE THE BOARD.

STOP THE TAPE AND PRY THE NAILS OUT OF THE

PLATES.

PAGE 46

USE THE HAMMER TO KNOCK THE OUTER STUDS AND

CENTER STUD AWAY FROM THE FIRE-STOPS.

HAMMER THE NAILS BACK THROUGH THE STUD AS

BEFORE.

USE THE CROWBAR TO PULL THE NAILS THE REST

OF THE WAY OUT OF THE BOARD.

DO THE SAME UNTIL YOU HAVE REMOVED ALL THE

NAILS FROM THE STUDS.

STOP THE TAPE, KNOCK THE STUDS AWAY FROM THE

FIRE-STOPS, AND HAMMER AND PULL OUT THE NAILS.

PAGE 47

PUT THE NAILS THAT ARE STRAIGHT BACK INTO THE APRON POCKETS. PUT THE BENT NAILS IN A GARBAGE CAN.

RETURN ALL TOOLS AND MATERIALS BACK INTO THE TOOL BOX.

STORE THE LUMBER IN THE PLACE YOU HAVE BEEN DIRECTED BY YOUR EVALUATOR.

CLEAN UP THE SAWDUST AND LEFT OVER WOOD FROM THE SUBFLOOR AND SURROUNDING AREA WITH THE BROOM AND DUST PAN PROVIDED TO YOU BY YOUR EVALUATOR.

STOP THE TAPE, RETURN THE TOOLS, AND CLEAN THE WORK AREA.

PAGE 48

CONGRATULATIONS! YOU HAVE JUST COMPLETED YOUR WORK EXPERIENCE AS A CARPENTER.

TAKE THE INTEREST CHECK SHEET, AND ANSWER QUESTION #2. NOW THAT YOU HAVE COMPLETED THE CARPENTER WORK SAMPLE, WOULD YOU WANT TO DO THAT TYPE OF WORK FOR A LIVING? (CHECK: NO, I WOULDN'T; MAYBE; OR YES, I WOULD!)

STOP THE TAPE, ANSWER THE QUESTION, AND CALL YOUR EVALUATOR.

(OBSERVATION POINT #18)

PAGE 49

PART II COMPUTING BOARD FEET (OPTIONAL)

THE LUMBERYARD BUYS ITS LUMBER FROM THE MILL

AND SELLS IT IN A MEASUREMENT CALLED "BOARD ROUGH-CUT SIZE THICKNESS

FEET". CARPENTERS MUST WORK WITH BOARD FEET (IN INCHES) X ROUGH-CUT

MEASUREMENTS. THIS IS THE FORMULA TO CONVERT SIZE WIDTH (IN FEET) X

LUMBER DIMENSIONS TO BOARD FEET. LENGTH (IN FEET).

FOR EXAMPLE: YOU NEED TWO 2 X 4 STUDS, EACH

EIGHT FEET LONG.

FORMULA: 2" X 4/12' (WIDTH IN INCHES

CONVERTED TO FEET) X 8'.

CONVERT THE 4/12' FRACTION TO A

DECIMAL: 4 - 12 = .333.

NOW THE FORMULA CAN BE EASILY

MULTIPLIED.

2 X .333 X 8 X 2 (NUMBER OF PIECES) = 10.666

BOARD FEET. THE LUMBERYARD WILL OFTEN QUOTE

THE PRICE IN SO MUCH PER BOARD FEET.

PAGE 50

USE THE TAPE MEASURE TO FIND THE MEASUREMENTS AND OTHER INFORMATION CALLED FOR ON THE BOARD FOOT CHART OF THE WORK SHEET.

NOTE: IF THE NUMBER CONTAINS A FRACTION, DROP THE FRACTION AND USE ONLY THE WHOLE NUMBER (EXAMPLE: 7 1/2 WOULD BE 7).

WRITE THE INFORMATION IN THE CORRECT BOXES ON THE WORK SHEET.

STOP THE TAPE, MEASURE BOARDS, AND RECORD INFORMATION ON WORK SHEET, THEN CALL YOUR EVALUATOR.

(OBSERVATION POINT #19)

PAGE 51

USE THE BOARD FOOT FORMULA SHOWN AT THE

RIGHT TO FIND THE NUMBER OF BOARD FEET IN

THE PLATES.

T = LUMBER THICKNESS (ROUGH-

WRITE YOUR ANSWER IN WORK SHEET BOX E CUT SIZE IN INCHES).

ACROSS FROM "PLATES" ON THE CHART. W = LUMBER WIDTH (ROUGH-CUT

IN FEET YOUR ANSWER

12

DO THE SAME FOR THE FIRE-STOPS AND STUDS. L = LUMBER LENGTH (IN FEET)

YOUR ANSWER

12

STOP THE TAPE, AND COMPUTE THE BOARD FEET. N = NUMBER OF PIECES.

E = BOARD FEET

PAGE 52

ADD ALL THE ENTRIES YOU WROTE UNDER WORK

SHEET BOX E TOGETHER.

WRITE YOUR RESULT IN BOX F ON THE WORK

SHEET. THIS IS THE TOTAL NUMBER OF BOARD

FEET OF LUMBER IN THE WALL YOU WILL BUILD.

WRITE $.40 (OR THE COST PER BOARD FOOT YOUR F = TOTAL BOARD FEET

INSTRUCTOR GAVE YOU) IN BOX K OF THE WORK K = PRICE PER BOARD FOOT

SHEET. TC = TOTAL COST OF LUMBER

MULTIPLY BOX F AND BOX K.

WRITE YOUR RESULT IN BOX TC. THIS IS THE

TOTAL COST OF THE LUMBER IN YOUR WALL.

STOP THE TAPE, COMPLETE WORK SHEET, THEN CALL

YOUR EVALUATOR.

(OBSERVATION POINT #20)

PAGE 53

................
................

In order to avoid copyright disputes, this page is only a partial summary.

Google Online Preview   Download