The Good Earth



The Good Earth

Dubuque County Master Gardener’s

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Publisher Mary Ann Emery Volume No. 10 Issue No. 6 Date June, 2011

Extension Master Gardener

Dubuque County Extension

14858 West Ridge Lane, Suite 2

Dubuque, IA 52003-8466

563-583-6496; Fax 563-583-4844

extension.iastate.edu/dubuque

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Hello everyone!!!

We certainly had a terrific plant sale on Saturday, May 7th. We sold over $900 in plants and baked goods. Thanks for all who helped make this a huge success.

All our yards are certainly looking wonderful this season. It took a while to get here but it is certainly wonderful to be outdoors moving plants, mowing and making needed improvements. I have been changing the shapes on a couple of my beds to make them easier to mow around, moving rocks (big ones too), spreading new mulch - - just doing the things that I had started and am now getting the time to finish. It is just so wonderful to be in the fresh air.

Happy Father’s Day to all our dads on Sunday, June 19! Hope you all have a great day!

-- Mary Ann Emery

Mission Statement

The mission of the Master Gardener Program is to provide current, research-based, home horticulture information and education to the citizens of Iowa through ISU Extension programs and projects. Through their participation in educational activities, Master Gardeners also increase their own personal knowledge in horticulture. Master Gardeners extend Iowa State University Extension’s consumer horticulture education programs through volunteer activity.

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Items of Interest!

1) Message from Marv

2) Call Center

3) Ask the Experts

4) Iowa Master Gardeners Gets New Look

5) Questions to Hotline Increasing

6) Hiring Professional Tree Services

7) Cuba City Garden Walk

8) Eastern Iowa Pond Tour

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Master Gardener News Items

Please mark your calendars with these important dates.

Thanks Everyone!

a) Master Gardener Advisory Committee Meeting; 2nd Monday of each month, 6:00 pm at the Extension Office. These meetings are open to all Master Gardener’s, Trainees (interns) and invited guests. Please come and support your Extension programs. M.G. Advisory Committee Meeting: Monday,June 13, 2011 at 6:00 pm at the Dubuque County Extension Office.

b) Tour of Gardens: Tour is Sunday, July 10.

c) Master Gardener Picnic, Sunday, August 27, starting at 5 p.m. at the Dubuque Arboretum.

NOTE: These events have been approved for volunteer hours toward gaining or maintaining your Master Gardener certification. Please contact Marv Stoffel at (563)582-4764 or by email at stoffel19@ if you want to be a volunteer at any of these events. Watch this area for more exciting events to come.

From Marv Stoffel, President

Master Gardener Advisory Committee

This is a very busy and exciting time of year. I'm sure everyone has been busy planting and getting their yards and gardens ready for summer.

At this time I would like to thank Ray Kunkel, who has chaired the Master Gardener Spring Plant Sale for the last several years. He has decided to step down and turn his duties over to someone else. Thanks Ray for your excellent leadership in this event.

On Saturday May 7th, we had our annual Master Gardener Plant Sale. This year's plant sale was chaired by Frank Kalnes and Joe Timmerman, who did an excellent job of making this year's plant sale a huge success. Thanks Guys! WE were blessed with very nice weather and an excellent variety of plants, baked items, and etc. for sale this year. Thanks to all who volunteered for this event. I know everyone who volunteered had a lot of fun and enjoyed it very much.

Our next big event will be the popular Tour of Gardens, chaired by Jeanne Ambrosy and Lou Ann Arensdorf. They have been very busy planning and organizing for this event. They have a line-up of some very beautiful gardens. The Tour of Gardens will be on Sunday, July 10th, held rain or shine. If you want to volunteer for this event contact Jeanne or Lou Ann. This is another great way to pick up volunteer hours and have lots of fun doing this. I can't wait to see these gardens.

Just a reminder to everyone. We are having the Summer Webinar Series held at the Co Extension Office on the 4th Tuesday of the months, May, June, July, and August which starts on  May 24th. You can attend one or all of these sessions. Hopefully, everyone received information about this. If you are interested in attending any of these sessions, please call Trish at the Extension Office. These sessions count as Education Hours and should be very informative.

Have a great and happy summer everyone!! 

Call Center: We Need Your Help

Our Call Center will be staffed through October. There are many openings on the schedule for June, July, August, and September. Please call Trish at the Extension Office or Marv Stoffel if you can help out in the Call Center on either Mondays (6-8pm) or Thursdays (1-4pm). They will make sure that your name gets on the schedule.

If you are scheduled to work in the Call Center and cannot make it, please find someone to fill in for you. Please feel free to go into the Call Center to work if your name is not on the schedule. There is usually always something to do and anyone who stops in or calls with questions are truly grateful for our help. We all can learn so much from each other and trying to help solve other gardening problems. This is another great opportunity to get your volunteer hours in, be of service to our community, and have a good time doing this at the same time.

Thanks to all who have volunteered for this so far. You’re Great! The Call Center cannot be a success without you. Thank you.

Ask the ISU Extension

Gardening Experts

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What is the proper way to plant a balled and burlapped tree? 

When planting a balled and burlapped tree, dig a hole that is two to three times wider than the diameter of the tree’s rootball. The depth of the hole should be two or three inches less than the height of the rootball. Slope the sides of the hole so the top of the hole is several inches wider than the bottom. 

Grasping the tree’s rootball, carefully lower the tree into the hole. The top of the rootball should be approximately two or three inches above the surrounding soil line. Make sure the trunk is straight. Then begin backfilling with the original soil. Do not add compost, peat or other organic materials to the soil. Gently firm the backfill soil in the hole with your hands. 

When the planting hole is one-half full, cut and remove all twine. Also, cut away and remove the burlap on the top one-third to one-half of the rootball. If the rootball is in a wire basket, remove the top one-third to one-half of the basket. Completely fill the remainder of the hole with soil. Place soil up to the top of the rootball and gradually slope it down to the surrounding soil line. Thoroughly water the tree. 

Poorly drained sites are difficult locations for many trees. When selecting trees for these sites, choose trees that can tolerate poorly drained conditions. In poorly drained soils, the depth of the planting hole should be approximately two-thirds of the height of the rootball. When placed in the hole, the top one-third of the rootball should be above the surrounding soil. Fill the hole with soil.  Place soil to the top of the rootball and gradually slope it down to the surrounding soil line. 

What is the proper way to plant a container-grown tree? 

When planting a container-grown tree, dig a hole that is two to three times wider than the diameter of the container. The depth of the hole should be two or three inches less than the height of the soil ball. Slope the sides of the hole so the top is several inches wider than the bottom. In poorly drained soils, the depth of the hole should be approximately two-thirds the height of the soil ball. 

Once the hole has been prepared, carefully lay the tree on its side. Tap the sides of the container to loosen the soil ball from the container, and then slide the tree out of its container. All containers should be removed, even supposedly plantable containers. If the sides of the soil ball are a mass of roots, carefully shave off the outer ½ to 1 inch of the soil ball with a sharp spade or saw. Place the tree in the hole. The top of the soil ball should be approximately 2 or 3 inches above the surrounding soil. In poorly drained sites, the top one-third of the soil ball should stick above the surrounding soil. 

Gradually fill the hole with soil. With each new addition of soil, firm it in place with your hands. Place soil to the top of the soil ball and gradually slope it down to the surrounding soil. Once planted, water thoroughly.

  

Caring for newly planted trees

Should I fertilize a newly planted tree? 

It is generally not necessary to fertilize newly planted trees. Most Iowa soils can supply sufficient amounts of nutrients during establishment. If trees are growing poorly two or three years after planting, fertilization may be beneficial. Poorly growing trees often exhibit sparse foliage, yellow-green leaves or short annual twig growth. 

Should I stake a newly planted tree? 

Staking is not required for most newly planted trees. However, large trees and those planted in windy, exposed sites may require staking. If staking is necessary, allow the trunk to move or sway for proper trunk and root development. To prevent damage to the trunk, use strong, wide strips of canvas, rubber or other materials to support the tree.  Remove the stakes as soon as possible. In most cases, stakes should be removed after one growing season. 

How should I prune a newly planted tree? 

Trees utilize sugars and other carbohydrates manufactured by the foliage for plant growth. Therefore, avoid the temptation to severely prune newly planted trees. Severe pruning reduces the tree’s ability to manufacture food and actually slows plant growth. Newly planted trees require only corrective pruning. Remove structural defects, such as double leaders and dead, broken or crossing branches. Retain most of the lower branches to help stabilize the tree. The lower branches also provide food for the growing tree. Gradually remove the lower limbs as the tree grows during the next five to10 years.

How often should I water a newly planted tree? 

The key to watering newly planted balled and burlapped and container-grown trees is to keep the plant’s rootball moist for several weeks after planting. Water newly planted trees every day for four or five days and then gradually reduce the frequency of watering. When watering, slowly apply water to the rootball and the surrounding soil. A thorough watering every seven to 14 days (in dry weather) should be sufficient four to five weeks after planting. Continue this watering schedule through summer and into fall.  Small trees usually require watering for one or two growing seasons. It may be necessary to periodically water large trees for two or three years. 

In regards to tomatoes, what is meant by the terms “determinate” and “indeterminate”? 

Determinate and indeterminate describe a tomato variety’s growth habit. Determinate tomatoes are small, compact plants. They grow to a certain height, stop, then flower and set all their fruit within a short period of time. The harvest period for determinate tomatoes is rather short, making them good choices for canning. Indeterminate tomatoes continue to grow, flower and set fruit until killed by the first frost in the fall. Accordingly, the harvest from indeterminate varieties often extends over a two to three month period. Yields are generally heavier than determinate types, but fruit are usually later to mature. Indeterminate tomatoes are large, sprawling plants which often perform best when grown in wire cages or trained on stakes. 

What are some good tomato varieties for Iowa? 

Suggested tomato varieties for Iowa include ‘Jet Star’ (indeterminate plant; red, oblate, medium to large fruit), ‘Better Boy’ (indeterminate; red, round, medium-sized fruit), ‘Celebrity’ (determinate; red, oblate, medium to large fruit), ‘Big Beef’ (indeterminate; red, oblate, large fruit), ‘Red Sun’ (determinate; red, globe-shaped, large fruit), ‘Carolina Gold’ (determinate; golden orange, oblate, large fruit), ‘Pony Express’ (determinate; red, plum-shaped fruit), ‘Sweet Olive’ (determinate; red, oval, grape-type fruit), and ‘Golden Sweet’ (indeterminate; yellow, oval, grape-type fruit). Oblate fruit are roundish with slightly flattened tops and bottoms.

When purchasing tomato plants, are big or small plants better? 

When purchasing tomato plants at your local greenhouse or garden center, select stocky, dark green plants. Plants should be 6 to 10 inches tall with stems about pencil-size in thickness. Avoid large plants with flowers and fruit. Early fruit development will stunt plant growth and reduce total yield. 

I have started several tomato plants indoors. Can they be planted directly into the garden? 

Plants started indoors or purchased at a greenhouse should be hardened or acclimated to outdoor conditions before transplanting into the garden. Initially place the plants in a shady protected location, then gradually expose them to longer periods of sunlight. After several days of hardening, the tomatoes should be ready to be planted into the garden. 

When can I plant tomatoes in Iowa? 

Transplant tomatoes into the garden after the danger of frost is past. In central Iowa, it’s usually safe to plant tomatoes around May 10. Gardeners in southern Iowa can plant one week earlier, while those in northern areas should wait an extra week. The last practical date for planting tomatoes is approximately June 20. 

What is the proper way to plant tomatoes? 

Tomatoes perform best when grown in fertile, well-drained soils in full sun. Soil structure and drainage of heavy, clay soils can be improved by incorporating organic matter, such as compost or peat, into the soil. Raised beds are another option for gardeners with heavy, clay soils. Planting sites should receive at least six to eight hours of direct sun daily. 

If the plants are in peat pots, tear off the top edge or make sure the top edge is well below the soil surface once planted. If the top edge of the peat pot is exposed to the air, it will act like a wick and draw moisture from the soil around the plant’s roots. If the tomatoes are in plastic pots or cell-paks, carefully tap out the plants. Use a sharp knife to cut around plants growing in small flats. 

Set plants into the soil up to their first true leaves. Pinch off the bottom leaves of tall, lanky transplants and lay them sideways in a trench. Carefully bend the stem upward so that the upper few inches of the stem are above the soil surface. Roots will develop all along the buried stem. 

Spacing of plants depends on the growth habit of the variety and training system employed. Indeterminate varieties that are staked can be planted 1½ to 2 feet apart in the row. Indeterminate plants grown in wire cages should be spaced 2½ to 3 feet apart, while a 3- to 4-foot-spacing would be appropriate for indeterminate tomatoes allowed to sprawl over the ground. Determinate, ground-grown tomatoes can be planted two feet apart. Rows should be spaced about four feet apart.

 

What is the proper planting depth when planting hybrid tea roses? 

Modern roses, such as hybrid tea, grandiflora and floribunda roses, are propagated by budding. A single bud is removed from the desired variety and inserted onto a hardy rootstock. The bud union (the knob-like swelling at the base of the canes) is sensitive to extreme cold and rapid temperature changes in winter. Modern roses are essentially destroyed if all growth above the bud union is destroyed in winter. When planting hybrid tea, grandiflora and floribunda roses, the bud union should be positioned 2 to 3 inches below the soil surface to protect the bud union and lower portions of the canes from winter damage. 

How often should I fertilize hybrid tea roses? 

To encourage vigorous growth and abundant bloom, hybrid tea, floribunda and grandiflora roses should be fertilized two or three times a year. Fertilizer applications can be made in early spring (immediately after pruning), during the first bloom period and mid to late July. Do not fertilize after July 31. Later fertilization will produce succulent new growth that may not harden sufficiently before winter. An all-purpose garden fertilizer, such as 10-10-10, should produce excellent results. Sprinkle 1/4 cup of fertilizer around each plant per application. 

How can I control blackspot on my roses? 

Blackspot is a common fungal disease of roses. Symptoms of blackspot are circular black spots on the leaves. Infected leaves turn yellow and drop prematurely. Initially, symptoms develop on the lower leaves and gradually move upward. By late summer, severely infected plants may be nearly defoliated. 

The blackspot fungus overwinters on fallen leaves and infected canes. Spores are splashed on to newly emerging foliage in spring.  Blackspot development is favored by warm (75 F), wet weather. 

Careful rose selection, cultural practices and fungicide treatments can be used to control blackspot on roses. Rose varieties differ widely in their susceptibility to blackspot. When purchasing roses, select rose varieties that are resistant to blackspot.  When selecting a planting site, choose a site that receives full sun and provides good air movement. Full sun and good air movement promote drying of the rose foliage and discourage blackspot infections. Reduce the amount of overwintering fungi by carefully cleaning up the leaf debris in fall. When watering roses, apply water directly to the ground around the plants. Do not wet the foliage. Fungicide applications must begin at the first sign of disease symptoms.

How often should I water my roses? 

Modern roses, such as hybrid teas, floribundas and grandifloras, require watering during hot, dry weather. The frequency depends upon weather conditions and soil type. In most gardens, a thorough watering every seven to 10 days during dry weather is sufficient. If possible, apply the water directly to the soil around each plant. Overhead watering wets the foliage and increases disease problems. If overhead watering is unavoidable, morning is the best time to water roses. Morning applications allow the foliage to dry quickly. 

An excellent way to conserve soil moisture is by mulching. Possible mulches include wood chips, shredded bark, pine needles and cocoa bean hulls. Spread 2 to 4 inches of mulch around each rose or over the entire bed. Mulches also help to control weeds. 

What is the proper way to deadhead roses? 

Deadheading or the removal of faded flowers is done to encourage additional bloom on hybrid tea and other repeat-flowering roses. Hybrid tea roses usually have one or two 3-leaflet leaves immediately below the flower. Next (lower down on the stem) are two or more 5-leaflet leaves. The deadheading procedure is slightly different for newly planted and established roses. During their first growing season, it’s usually recommended that the spent flower be removed above the uppermost 3-leaflet leaf. Removal of a larger percentage of the rose’s foliage reduces the plant’s ability to manufacture food and slows growth. When deadheading established roses, the stem may be cut back to a 5-leaflet leaf. Retain at least two 5-leaflet leaves on each shoot. Use sharp tools (hand shears or knife) to remove faded flowers. Cut about 1/4 inch above an outward facing bud and leaflet with the cut made parallel to the angle of the leaflet.

Although it is classed as a vegetable, rhubarb is used as a fruit because its high acidity gives it a tart flavor. Iowa State University Extension horticulture specialists answer gardeners’ questions about growing and using rhubarb. Whether questions come from gardeners planting their first rhubarb patch or maintaining an established planting, extension specialists answer questions using the most current research. Gardeners with additional questions can contact the experts by emailing or calling the ISU Extension horticulture hotline at hortline@iastate.edu or 515-294-3108.

What would be a good planting site for rhubarb? 

Rhubarb performs best in well-drained, fertile soils that are high in organic matter.  Heavy, clay soils often can be improved by incorporating organic matter, such as compost or well-rotted manure, into the upper 12 to 15 inches of soil. The planting site should also receive at least six to eight hours of direct sun each day. Avoid shady sites near trees and shrubs. 

 When can I start harvesting my newly planted rhubarb? 

  After planting rhubarb, it’s best to wait two years (growing seasons) before harvesting any stalks. The two-year establishment period allows the plants to become strong and productive. 

Rhubarb can be harvested over a four-week period in the third year. In the fourth and succeeding years, stalks can be harvested for eight to 10 weeks.

 

What is the correct way to harvest rhubarb? 

  Harvest rhubarb when the stalks are 10 to 15 inches long. Grasp the stalk near its base and pull up and slightly to one side. Immediately after harvesting the rhubarb, remove the leaf blades from the stalks with a sharp knife. Discard the foliage. The stalks can be placed in a plastic bag and stored in the refrigerator for two to four weeks. 

When harvesting rhubarb, do not remove more than two-thirds of the fully developed stalks from any plant at any one time. 

Are rhubarb leaves safe to put in the compost pile? 

Although rhubarb leaves do contain poisonous oxalic acid, they can be placed in the compost pile. Oxalic acid, like other organic acids, is not readily absorbed by plant roots. Compost containing decomposed rhubarb leaves can be safely applied to the vegetable garden. 

 

When should I stop harvesting rhubarb? 

  Gardeners should stop harvesting well established rhubarb plants in mid-June in Iowa.  Continued harvest through the summer months weakens the rhubarb plants and reduces the yield and quality of next year’s crop. 

Can I harvest rhubarb in August? 

If the rhubarb plants are vigorous, pulling a few stalks and preparing a dish for a special occasion in summer shouldn’t be a problem. Harvesting rhubarb in summer should be a one time event, not a frequent practice. Continued harvest through the summer months weakens the rhubarb plants and reduces the yield and quality of next year’s crop. In general, it’s best to stop harvesting rhubarb in mid-June in Iowa. 

There is an erroneous belief that rhubarb stalks are poisonous in summer. The stalks will likely be a little tougher than those harvested in spring, but they are not poisonous.  Plant vigor is the reason that rhubarb should not be harvested in summer. 

Why is my rhubarb flowering? 

Flower development is natural for rhubarb and most other plants. Drought, extreme heat and infertile soils may encourage flowering. Age is another factor. Old plants tend to flower more than young ones. 

Regardless of the reason, flower stalks should be promptly pulled and discarded. Plants will be less productive if allowed to flower and set seeds. 

Flower formation can be discouraged with good cultural practices. Water rhubarb plants every seven to 10 days during dry weather. Sprinkle ½ cup of an all-purpose garden fertilizer, such as 10-10-10, around each plant in early spring. Control weeds by shallow hoeing, hand pulling or mulching. 

Can blueberries be grown successfully in Iowa? 

Blueberries can be grown successfully in Iowa. However, they do have special growing requirements. 

Blueberry plants require a sunny location and a well-drained soil high in organic matter. Avoid wet, poorly drained sites. Blueberries are susceptible to root rots in poorly drained soils.

Soil pH also is important. Blueberries require acid soils with a pH of 4.0 to 5.5. Since the pH of most Iowa soils is above this range, the soil pH must be lowered to successfully grow blueberries. 

Home gardeners can lower their soil pH by adding sphagnum peat moss to the soil. Sulfur also can be used to acidify the soil. Sulfur should be incorporated into the soil a year before planting, as it reacts slowly with the soil. Aluminum sulfate should not be used to acidify the soil, as large amounts of this material can be toxic to blueberry plants. 

When using sphagnum peat moss to acidify the soil, dig a wide, shallow hole. Set the plant at the same depth it grew in the nursery, then backfill with a 50:50 mixture of soil and moist peat (moisten dry peat before mixing with soil). 

Which blueberry varieties perform well in Iowa? 

Highbush and half-high blueberries can be successfully grown in Iowa. 

Highbush blueberries perform best in central and southern Iowa. Plants develop into 6- to 8-foot-tall shrubs. Suggested varieties for gardeners in central and southern Iowa include ‘Patriot,’ ‘Blueray,’ ‘Bluejay,’ ‘Bluecrop,’ ‘Rubel,’ ‘Jersey’ and ‘Elliott.’

Half-high blueberries possess greater cold hardiness and are the best choice for gardeners in northern Iowa. Plants are relatively small (varieties commonly grow 2 to 3 feet tall) and produce small to medium-size berries. Suggested varieties are ‘Northblue,’ ‘Northcountry,’ ‘Northsky’ and ‘St. Cloud.’

Plant two or three blueberry varieties to ensure good pollination and maximum fruit set.

I just planted some blueberries. When can I expect them to produce a crop? 

Blueberry plants should not be allowed to bear fruit the first two years after planting. Any blossoms that form should be removed. Removal of the flowers maximizes vegetative growth and increases yields in later years. Blueberry plants should come into full production by the fifth or sixth year. Gardeners can expect to harvest five to 10 pounds of fruit per plant from mature highbush blueberries. Half-high blueberries generally produce two to three pounds per plant.

 

Should blueberry plants be fertilized? 

Established blueberry plants can be fertilized with an acid-producing fertilizer, such as ammonium sulfate, in early spring. Apply one-half to one pound of ammonium sulfate per 100 square feet of garden area. Ammonium sulfate supplies nitrogen to the plants and also helps to maintain soil acidity.

Should blueberry plants be watered during dry weather? 

Blueberries have shallow, fibrous root systems. Plants quickly become stressed during hot, dry weather. To help retain moisture and control weeds, apply 2 to 4 inches of mulch around blueberry plants. Sawdust, wood chips, pine needles and shredded leaves are excellent mulching materials. During dry weather, water plants every seven to 10 days.

Do blueberries have insect and disease problems?

Phytophthora root rot can be a serious problem in poorly drained sites. Phytophthora root rot can be avoided by planting blueberries in well-drained soils. Outside of root rots, blueberries generally have few insect and disease problems in Iowa. 

Birds can be a problem as they may devour much of the crop. While scare devices may be helpful, netting is the most effective way to protect the fruit from birds. Netting should be placed over the plants when the fruit begin to turn color. Hang the netting over some type of support structure with the bottom edges of the netting buried or anchored to the ground. 

About the Authors: Richard Jauron, Horticulture, 515-294-1871 , rjauron@iastate.edu; Willy Klein, Extension Communications and External Relations, 515-294-0662, wklein@iastate.edu.

Iowa Master Gardener Program Gets New Look

By Jennifer Bousselot, Cynthia Haynes, Christopher Weishaar

AMES, Iowa – Multiple designs, several weeks and 1,200 votes have led to a new look for the Iowa Master Gardener program. The new visual identity begins with a logo that will soon start showing up, and the coming weeks and months will add other materials, such as business cards, banners and clothing.

“A new visual identity was needed to help represent the changes and evolution the Master Gardener program has gone through in recent years,” said Jennifer Bousselot, Master Gardener coordinator with Iowa State University Extension. “The new logo design was chosen by the state’s Master Gardeners, so they have helped shape this program in the coming years.”

A new logo needed to represent the breadth and depth of the programs' purposes and activities, as well as the people associated with it and their gardening interests, reasons for volunteering and experiences, Bousselot added.

The initial designs included a variety of styles and art direction before being narrowed down to three logos from which the state’s Master Gardeners were asked to choose. A total of 1,200 votes were made, and the winning logo came away with 52 percent of those votes.

The winning logo, known as the “state” logo, “includes the most important aspects of our program: a tree/plant rooted firmly in Iowa soils and the hand of the volunteers that give this program strength,” said Cynthia Haynes, Master Gardener professor-in-charge and ISU Extension horticulture specialist.

Banners, signs, apparel and other materials will be transitioning to the new logo and visual identity in 2011, but Master Gardeners are still encouraged to wear their old logos with pride. Previous logos included the "basket" logo (1980-98) and "window pane" logo (1998-2011).

About Iowa Master Gardener program

The Master Gardener program is a volunteer service training program of ISU Extension in which adults are given advanced training in horticulture in exchange for volunteer service to the community. The Iowa Master Gardener program has more than 3,000 volunteers statewide.

About the Authors: Jennifer Bousselot, Master Gardener Coordinator, 515-294-4813, jmbouss@iastate.edu; Cynthia Haynes, Master Gardener Professor-in-Charge, 515-294-4006, chaynes@iastate.edu; Christopher Weishaar, Extension Communications and External Relations, 515-294-1327, cweishaa@iastate.edu.

Number of Yard and Garden Questions Coming to Horticulture Hotline Increasing

By Richard Jauron, Willy Klein

AMES, Iowa -- Dead spots in the lawn, shrubs to prune, insects on garden vegetables, unidentified blooming flowers – these are all things that prompt Iowans to call Hortline, the Iowa State University Extension hotline for consumer horticulture questions. In fact, more than 200,000 phone calls have been made to Hortline since it was established in May 1983.

Richard Jauron, ISU Extension horticulturist, is the Hortline expert at the other end of the phone. Jauron administers Hortline and has served as the chief question responder for nearly three decades, with occasional support from other horticulture staff.

Thousands call Hortline for help

From his Iowa State office in Horticulture Hall, Jauron answers an average of 3,500 client questions called into 515-294-3108 each year, and replies to a growing number of emails sent to hortline@iastate.edu. “Questions called into Hortline are resolved much quicker than questions emailed by clients,” said Jauron. “When we are on the phone, I can get details specific to their question and generally can nail down an answer in a few minutes. Email questions are often very vague and require a chain of emails to get all the necessary information, which takes much more time.”

Jauron says two out of three Hortline callers over the years have been female, but in 2006 the number of men calling the hotline began to increase. “With the increase in male callers, I also saw an increase in tree and shrub questions and a noticeable decline in houseplant and vegetable calls,” he said.

When the Hortline phone rings, Jauron can quickly access a database, drawers filled with reference materials and a small library of books, but he confesses that many questions are common and easily answered. The questions that demand a little more research or a call to a colleague are the intriguing ones to answer. “With weed, greenhouse and turf experts right here in the building or very close by and with the herbarium right next door, there very few questions that we can’t answer right here at Iowa State,” Jauron said.

Jauron answers Hortline calls from 10 a.m. to noon and 1 to 4:30 p.m. Monday through Friday. He is the primary Hortline expert, but that hasn’t always been the case. Periodically, there has been funding for student interns who assisted with the calls and emails. For several years, Hortline was a toll free number with two experts taking calls on two incoming lines. But that didn’t cut back the work load; it just doubled the number of calls. “We went back to a local number so we could manage the number of calls better,” said Jauron. “Now when the line is busy, folks just have to call back until they get through.” Or, send an email – which Jauron says is an ever increasing way that people are reaching out to Hortline.

Number of emailed questions increases

In the past year alone Hortline received 1,300 email questions – up from 259 emails in 1997, the first year the email option was available. Jauron surveyed the 2010 online clients to learn more about them. “Two-thirds of the respondents had tried to find an answer another way before emailing Hortline,” said Jauron.  “Most of them (94 percent) said the answer they received was helpful to very helpful.”

Those surveyed said they looked for an answer by searching the Internet (84 percent), looking in books and magazines (45 percent), and talking to friends and relatives (38 percent) or garden center employees (33 percent). Most respondents (70 percent) said they had emailed Hortline one or two times with questions, but 13 percent said they had emailed five or more times to get gardening answers. Similar to Hortline callers, two-thirds of the email clients were female; and tree and shrub questions were asked more often than other categories of questions.

Jauron reminds Hortline clients in his phone and online responses that Iowa State and ISU Extension have additional gardening resources available. His online clients said they had used many of them, including county offices (50 percent), yard and garden news columns (41 percent), ISU Extension online store (40 percent), ISU Horticulture Web page (36 percent) and Horticulture and Home Pest News (34 percent).  A review of the top 100 publications downloaded from the ISU Extension online store during the week of April 25, 2011 reveals that 60 percent of downloads were yard and garden related.

The Hortline call and email numbers, as well as the survey results, indicate no shortage of questions for  horticulture specialists and a continuing demand for  a variety of Iowa State yard and garden information. 

 About the Authors: Richard Jauron, Horticulture, 515-294-1871 , rjauron@iastate.edu; Willy Klein, Extension Communications and External Relations, 515-294-0662

wklein@iastate.edu.

Hiring Professional Tree Services

By Jesse Randall, Willy Klein

AMES, Iowa--In some tree damage situations, the homeowner can clean up fallen material and remove damaged branches on smaller trees. But in many cases, a tree care professional needs to be hired to manage the situation safely. According to Jesse Randall, ISU Extension forester, examples of situations where a tree care professional should be consulted include: the tree needing repair is near utility lines, the repair work requires climbing, removal of large branches is required or the tree is leaning on a structure or an adjacent tree.

  "In cases of widespread tree damage it is not unusual for individuals calling themselves 'tree specialists' to start showing up throughout the area looking for work. Owning a truck and a chainsaw does not automatically qualify someone as a tree care professional," said Randall. "Most people in the tree care profession call themselves arborists."

  Arborists are people who specialize in the management and care of individual trees, and their education and/or training is in the field of tree care. There are qualified arborists throughout the state, but Randall advises Iowans to protect themselves and their property by considering the following suggestions when dealing with storm damaged trees and hiring individuals or companies for tree care services.

When hiring tree removal

1) Before anything is done, be sure any trees in question are on your property. If the tree is in the public right-of-way contact your local city officials to see who is responsible for managing trees in these locations.

  2) If your tree is immediately adjacent to power lines, contact your local utility for potential assistance with pruning of broken branches or removal of hazardous trees. Do not prune around utility lines. This work should be done by trained professionals only.

3) Beware of people knocking on your door offering to work on your tree. Most established arborists do not create new business by going door-to-door.

  4) In some communities arborists must be licensed to work within city limits, so check with city hall to see if this is a requirement and for a possible list of licensed arborists. If you live outside of a community or there is no list available from city hall, check the yellow pages in the phone book for a listing of tree care professionals under the heading Tree Services or Tree Care. Also, check with friends or neighbors who have had work done by a reputable company or individual.

  5) Make sure the individual or company has insurance for personal and property damage, and workers compensation. Ask for evidence of this insurance. In some cases communities have ordinances that specify insurance requirements for arborists; contact city hall for this information.

  6) Ask for, and check, local references or past clients.

  7) If time permits, obtain tree work estimates from several arborists. Make sure to get a written estimate listing all work to be done. Read through the details carefully, and be sure you understand what will be done. The cost of good tree care is not cheap. Most arborists have a heavy investment in equipment, labor, safety training and insurance; a bid for a job has to reflect many of those costs.

  8) Before the work starts, obtain some type of written contract that specifies what will be done, how it will be accomplished, the costs, and the start and completion dates for the job.

  9) Don't pay for the job until everything agreed upon is completed.

  10) Finally, arborists will be very busy for weeks and possibly months helping concerned clients following a major storm, so be patient and prepared to wait to get your needed work completed. In most cases, tree services will try to get to you immediately if your tree is a danger to people or surrounding structures.

  For more information on taking care of your damaged tree or trees, contact your local Iowa State University Extension office. 

  Photo courtesy of Keven Arrowsmith, Iowa Department of Transportation.

  About the Authors: Jesse Randall, ISU Extension Forestry, 515-294-1168, randallj@iastate.edu; Willy Klein, Extension Communications and External Relations, 515-294-0662, wklein@iastate.edu.

Cuba City Garden Walk

Tuesday, June 21 4:30 p.m.-8:00 p.m.

Rain date June 28

Self-Guided Walking Tour of Six Gardens

Pick-up the site map with description for the garden walk at Ruth Ann Summer’s home at 410 S. Main St., 608-744-2629. There is a suggested cash donation of $3 per person to help support Master Gardener’s Scholarship Program.

Return to the Summer’s home at 7:30-8:00 p.m. for the final garden location and refreshments.

Grant County Master Gardeners

thank the generosity of the hosts for the

Summer Solstice Garden Walk.

Eastern Iowa Pond Society

Pond Tour

Sunday, July 10, 2011 11 a.m.-5 p.m.

Adults $5 (Children 12 and under free)

Held rain or shine

Cedar Rapids sites: 131 Rosedale Rd., 1323 34th St. SE, 925 26th St. SE, 6702 Spring Cove Ct. NE, 2818 Southland St. SW; in Robins: 430 Beverly St.; in Marion, 1840 Geode St.; in Solon: 304 Pleasant View Dr. NE; in West Liberty, 1265 Ivan Lane; in Amana: 1375 Baxter Ave., and in Durango: 20203 Park Hollow Rd.

Wristbands and directions are available at any pond location on the day of the tour. 11 ponds and water features around the Eastern Iowa area.

For more info: .

Gardening Tip:

Use mulch. Mulch helps to conserve moisture, control weeds, and beautifies your flower beds at the same time.If you have any tips that will help other gardeners, please email them to me at gordycat24@. Please put the words Gardening Tip in the subject line and I will put them in upcoming newsletters. Thanks for sharing your tips. Mary Ann Emery

 Iowa State University and U.S. Department of Agriculture Cooperating Extension programs are available to all without regard to race, color, national origin, religion, sex, age, or disability.

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