References (chronological order)



REFERENCES

(in chronological order)

Les Secrets de Maistre Alexys le Piedmontais (the maistre was in fact Girolama Ruscelli) first published 1555.

L. Fargeon L’art du Parfumeur Paris (c. 1801)

Lillie, Charles The British Perfumer 2nd edn J. Souter, London (1822)

GW Septimus Piesse Art of Perfumery (London 1855)

Eugene Rimmel Book of Perfumes Chapman & Hall (1865)

AJ Cooley Handbook of Perfumes, Cosmetics Philadelphia (1873)

RS Christiani Treatise on Perfumery Philadephia (1877)

FC Clifford Romance of Perfume Lands Boston (1881)

R. Sigismund Die Aromatica (Weimar 1884)

JA Begy Practical Handbook of Toilet Preparations New York (1889)

JP Durvelle Nouveau Formulaire des Parfums Paris (1890) – 5th edn 1930.

JH Snively Manufacture of Perfumes New York (1890)

GW Askinson Perfumes and their Preparation New York (1892)

M. Otto L’industrie des Parfums Paris (1909)

GW Askinson Perfumes & Cosmetics New York (1922)

La perfumerie française et l’art la présentation (Paris 1925)

Paul Sentenac Art of a Perfumer (Paris 1925)

O’Gerhardt Das Komponieren in der Parfumerie Leipzig (1931)

S. Piesse Chimie das Parfums Paris (1935)

R. Cerbelaud Formulaire de Parfumerie Paris (1936)

Edward Sagarin The Science & Art of Perfumery (McGraw-Hill 1945)

Y.R. Naves & G. Mazuyer Natural Perfume Materials (Reinhold Pub Corp New York 1947).

RJ Forbes Short History of the Art of Distillation (Brill 1948)

RM Gattefosse Formulaire de Parfumerie et de Cosmetologie Paris: Giradot & Cie (1950)

Jean Carles (1968) Methods of Creation in Perfumery SPC Year Book 1968 13-30

F. Kennet (1971) A History of Perfume Harrap, London

R. Genders (1972) A History of Scent Hamish Hamilton

Felix Cola Le livre du Parfumeur Edn. du Layet (1980).

ET Morris Fragrance New York Charles Scribner’s Sons (1984)

H-M. Hoffman (1985) “Chypre” Perfumer & Flavourist Vol 10 April/May 1985. p66-73.

C. Baudelaire (1986) Les Fleurs du Mal Harvester.

Paul Bedoukian (1992) “Bouquet a la Marechale – an early fragrance” Perfumer & Flavourist Sept/Oct 1992 Vol 17, pp43-46.

Paul Bedoukian (1993) “Eau de Cologne, Jean-Maria Farina – another early fragrance” Perfumer & Flavourist Vol 18, Jan/Feb 1993 p 37-41.

Paul Bedoukian (1993) “Millefleurs - another early fragrance” Perfumer & Flavourist Vol 18, Mar/April 1993 p 35-7.

Paul Bedoukian (1993) “L’Eau de Lubin” Perfumer & Flavourist Vol 18, May/June 1993 p 51-2.

Paul Bedoukian (1993) “Jockey Club” Perfumer & Flavourist Vol 18, Nov/Dec 1993 p 37-9.

Paul Bedoukian (1994) “Trefle Incarnat” Perfumer & Flavourist Vol 19 May/June 1994 p47-9.

Paul Bedoukian (1994) “Le Parfum Ideal (1900) by Houbigant” Perfumer & Flavourist Vol 18, July/Aug 1994 p 42-3.

Paul Bedoukian (1993) “Eau Imperiale (1861) by Guerlain” Perfumer & Flavourist Vol 18, July/Aug 1993 p 33.

Paul Bedoukian (1994) “Jicky by Guerlain” Perfumer & Flavourist Vol 19, Jan/Feb 1994 pp25-6.

Paul Bedoukian (1994) “Vera Violetta (1892) by Roger & Gallet” Perfumer & Flavourist Vol 19, Mar/April 1994 pp47-48.

A FEW FAMOUS PERFUMES..

(in chronological order)

Millefleurs (several versions 18th Century, France)

Eau de Cologne (Farina type) derives from Eau Admirable (Gian Paolo Feminis around 1650?)

Poudre a la Maréchale (1670 Maréchale d’Aumont) becoming

Parfum a la Maréchale

Koelnish Wasser (1714 Farina Gegenuber)

4711 (1794 4711-Mulhens)

Jean Marie Farina (1806 Roger & Gallet)

Eau de Lubin (Lubin 1798)

Gold Metal Cologne (1799 Atkinsons)

Le Rose; Le Jasmin (both by Molinard 1860)

Eau Imperiale (Guerlain 1861)

Farala (GAF 1883) – noted for inclusion of tangerine note

Skine (Guerlain 1885)

Rocco a la Pariesienne (Guerlain 1887)

Fleur d’Italie (Guerlain 1884)

Jockey Club – all natural - various versions – formula first published JA Begy (1889)

Jicky (Guerlin 1889) – contains synthetic vanillin and coumarin

Vera Violetta (Roger & Gallet 1892)

L’Origan (Created by Francois Coty in 1905). Included floral notes of carnation, orange blossom + methyl ionone (Iralia)+ ambrein complex. Neroli also used.

L’Heure Blue (1912) Violet notes intertwined with those of carnation and orange blossom, the violet theme also blending with notes of heliotrope, jasmin, iris, Bulgarian rose & vanilla. Created by Pierre Francoise Pascal Guerlain (founder of the house of Guerlain). Also used dimethyl hydroquinone and methyl anthranilate.

Mitsouko (Guerlain 1919)

Represents the first aldehydic chypre with aldehydes and high fruity notes modified by an oriental background. Contains bergamot, vetiver plus gamma undecalactone - the first time that peach had been blended with a chypre accord.

Chanel No 5 (Chanel 1921)

Citrus, aldehydic floral chypre (including natural florals jasmine, lilac, carnation & Ylang ylang), which is also mossy, woody, amber & animalic. Contains fatty aldehydes C10, 11 & 12.

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