“Stakes and Professions in Perfumery”
NEW!
“Stakes and Professions in Perfumery”
A limited Edition (2007 Publication)
under the direction of François Berthoud (former CEO of Givaudan France)
All the professionals agree that the perfumery has undergone a significant and decisive change in the past years: globalization, reduction of the number of key players on the market, changing distribution, numerous launches, legal constraints and incredible technical changes...
“Stakes and Professions in Perfumery” is a writers’ collective, which is a major contribution for a better understanding of the Fragrance industry today - and in the future.
• The chairman of “Le Comité Français du Parfum”, Gérard Delcour, kindly wrote the introduction and Michael Edwards delivered a very interesting foreword.
• The first and second sections written by about thirty key players in the industry give a global overview of the main markets in the world and the stakes for the years to come. Sometimes, their analysis is tough, without concessions, underlying the contradictions and difficulties, but also talking about openings and growth on the markets.
It was essential that they should say what they felt in their own words and in their own style.
This is probably what makes the work so rich.
• The third section is made up of about fifty interviews which were carried out in the months preceding the publication. Interviews were spontaneous with professionals all active in jobs of interest to anyone working in this profession or wanting to go into it.
Everybody was proud to talk about an industry which brings happiness and beauty to those it touches.
1st Section: The Perfume Planet
A Success Model which has run out of breath? Barbara Le Portz
Introduction to the Perfume Market Martine Ringwald
Great myths of perfume Annick Le Guérer
Perfumes of brands or… brands of perfumes Georges Lewi
Focus on
The USA: freeze frame on the market Michèle Meyer
The label “Made in France”, a successful globalization Nathalie Charon
The UK Premium Fine Fragrance Market John Ayres, Sumit Bhasin
Japan: Empire of cosmetics Pascale Elmalan
China: The Asian Eldorado Pascale Elmalan
Latin America: Emergences Luiz Seabra
An olfactive voyage in South India Patty Canac
Middle East: real opportunities Benoît Rouquayrol de Boisse
Russia: a market with an exceptional growth Patrice le Lann
The economic pole of perfumery development in France Jean-Luc Ansel
What future for Grasse? Han-Paul Bodifee
The WPC (World Perfumery Congress), a major event in perfumery Jean-Pierre Subrenat
2nd Section: Stakes For Tomorrow
The creation of a perfume
Perfumes and olfactory research André Holley
The sense of smell and its language Barbara Le Portz, Claudine Drai, Jean de Kervasdoué
The Nature and Chemistry of Synthesis. An inescapable association Francis Thibaudeau
Creative Processes in Perfumery Christophe Laudamiel
The Electronic nose Marion Bonnefille
Youth-like Perfume Jean-Pierre Forestier
Constraints and Hopes
French Federation of Selective Perfumery François Forget
Legal constraints for the distribution of perfumes Jean-Jacques Le Pen
Perfumes under strong supervision, Perfumes & Ecology Nathalie Charon
European and global regulations. How can they be harmonized? Véronique Epstein
REACH – Preparation of the Perfumery Industry Robert Fellous
The role and the action of IFRA-RIFM Jean-Pierre Houri
Creative stakes within the “Perfumery Profession” Karine Lebret
The Perfume: a Work of Art? Property and Copy Jean-Jacques Le Pen
The Creation of Brand Names in the field of Perfumery Marcel Botton
3rd Section: Professions in Perfumery
Brands
Marketing Director: development of a brief Virginie Balleys
Creation, a source of revelation Serge Lutens
Quality and innovation at a gentle price Ulric Viellard
Frédéric Malle Editions: a successful example of “Niche” perfumes Frédéric Malle
Launch of a brand: parfums Jovoy François Hénin
Wholesale-Distributor Perfumes : another view Sophie Thiolas
Marketing Group Manager Sophie Delatte
20 years of International Export Experience Benoît Rouquayrol de Boisse
Press Relations Elisabeth Sirot
Master-Distributor in the Middle East Julien Sprecher - Axel Berrier
Subsidiary Manager in Germany Stéphane Seidel
New Projects Manager Constance Deroubaix
Artistic Direction, the Guerlain spirit Sylvaine Delacourte
Duty-Free Sales Michel Mignot
Fragrance Companies
Perfumery plantations in South Africa Jean-Daniel Dor
Perfume Markets: an exploratory passion Patrick Saint-Yves
Marketing, Global Management at IFF Judith Gross
An Independent Perfumer Patricia de Nicolaï
A “Fine Fragrance” Perfumer Thierry Wasser
“Consumer goods” Sales Management Bruno Truchon Bartes
“Selective Perfumery” Sales Management Yvan Bagnis
A “Toiletries” Perfumer Dominique Hazael-Massieux
Evaluation, a métier behind the scenes Emeline Benech
Production, Control, Quality Jacques Vaillant
Partners
Independent perfumery, a specific model Violette Oumansky, Cyril Maurus
Perfume purchaser for department stores Soffia Meharbi
Freelance Beauty Consultant Laurence Goodman
Natural Raw Materials Sourcing Dominique Roques
A creator of legend Pierre Dinand
Designer, the art of the container Thierry de Baschmakoff
Market Research: the NPD Panel Martine Ringwald
Design and product conception, graphic creation Bruno Lablaine
A look at the profession, Cosmetic Mag Véronique Viaud
“abc-luxe” Web site Kathy O’Meny
“osMoz” Web site Julien Levy
Pictures from an Independent Photographer Dominique Silberstein
Creation of an event: les Places d’Or Richard Zaoui
Exhibitions, Luxe Pack Nathalie Grosdidier
Strategic recommendation and search for new concepts Catherine Disdet
Independent Consultant Rebecca Narewski
Beautiful shops for selling better Didier Clermont, Georges Olivereau
The indispensable sample Dominique Lourel
POS, display units, windows Jean-Pierre Pignot
Logistics of production and distribution, the supply chain François Conin
The French Society of Perfumers (SFP) Sylvie Jourdet
Training
Initial Training, Hélène Boucher High School in Toulouse Denis Akriche
Initial Training, University of Le Havre Catherine Malhiac
The ASFO & Grasse Institute of Perfumery Alain Ferro
Professional training, EDC and Sup Retail Florence de Finance, Thibaut de la Rivière
ISIPCA, Training perfumers Evelyne Robert
Training beauty consultants, Nocibé Isabelle Mory
Training beauty consultants, Douglas Gisèle Beauce
International Training, Coty Prestige Régine Pasquet
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Denis Akriche (Professeur, Lycée Hélène Boucher Toulouse), Jean-Luc Ansel (Directeur Général, Cosmetic Valley), John Ayres (President FIFI, Grande-Bretagne), Yvan Bagnis (Directeur Commercial, Firmenich), Virginie Balleys (Directrice Marketing, Parfums Lalique), Thierry de Baschmakoff (Président Aesthete), Sumit Bhasin (Director of Global Fragrance Development, P&G Prestige), Gisèle Beauce (Directrice Formation, Douglas France), Emeline Benech (Evaluatrice), Han-Paul Bodifee (Président, PRODAROM), Marion Bonnefille (Directrice communication, Alpha-Mos), Marcel Botton (Président, Nomen), Patty Canac (Ateliers Thierry Mugler), Nathalie Charon (Journaliste), Didier Clermont (Directeur général, Dragon Rouge Archi), François Conin (Directeur, 4 Pole), Sylvaine Delacourte (Direction artistique et création, Parfums Guerlain), Sophie Delatte (Chef de groupe marketing, Chanel), Gérard Delcour (Président du Comité Français du Parfum), Constance Deroubaix (Directrice nouveaux projets,
Thierry Mugler), Pierre Dinand (Designer), Catherine Disdet (CDC, Catherine Disdet Conseil), Jean-Daniel Dor (Directeur adjoint arômes, Robertet), Claudine Drai (sculpteur sur papier), Michael Edwards (Fragrances of the World), Pascale Elmalan (Marketing & market research Director, Takasago), Véronique Epstein (Directeur affaires réglementaires et sécurité produits EAME, Givaudan), Robert Fellous (Vice-Président Global Regulatory Affairs, Symrise), Alain Ferro (ASFO-Grasse, Grasse Institute of Perfumery), Florence de Finance (Directrice générale, EDC Paris), Jean-Pierre Forestier (Maître de Conférences, Université Paul Sabatier, Toulouse, Biophysicien), François Forget (Président, Fédération française de la parfumerie sélective), Laurence Goodman (Conseillère beauté free-lance), Nathalie Grosdidier (Luxe Pack, Groupe ETAI), Judith Gross (Directrice Marketing Int’l IFF), Dominique Hazael-Massieux (Parfumeur, Givaudan), François Hénin (Directeur pôle cosmétiques, Parfétique), André Holley (Centre Européen des Sciences du Goût), Jean-Pierre Houri (Directeur Général, IFRA-RIFM), Sylvie Jourdet (Présidente de la Société française des parfumeurs, Créassence), Jean de Kervasdoué (Professeur titulaire, Conservatoire national des arts et métiers), Bruno Lablaine (Président, ABN Concept), Thibault de La Rivière (EDC Paris), Christophe Laudamiel (Senior Perfumer, IFF), Karine Lebret (L'Oréal produits de luxe, Directrice création et développement parfums), Annick Le Guérer (Historienne), Patrice Le Lann (Associé, ITEC), Jean Jacques Le Pen (Avocat, LPLG Avocats), Barbara Le Portz (Directrice Général, Fragrance Intelligence), Julien Levy (Directeur osMoz, Firmenich), Georges Lewi (Directeur, BEC-Institute), Dominique Lourel (Directrice Générale, Cofatech), Serge Lutens (Parfumeur), Frédéric Malle (PDG, Les Editions de Parfum Frédéric Malle), Catherine Malhiac (Maître de Conférence, Université du Havre), Soffia Meharbi (Senior Brand Manager, Selective Beauty), Michèle Meyer (Michèle Meyer Connections), Michel Mignot (Directeur Export, Chanel), Isabelle Mory (Directrice du Centre de formation Nocibé), Rebecca Narewski (Directrice Générale, FindinG), Patricia de Nicolaï (Parfumeur), Georges Olivereau (Directeur de création, Dragon Rouge Archi), Catherine O’Meny (Rédactrice en chef, ABC-Luxe), Violette Oumansky et Cyril Maurus (Parfumeries Carla), Régine Pasquet (International Training Director, Coty Prestige), Jean-Pierre Pignot (Président, ACP), Martine Ringwald (Vice President Beauty, The NPD Group), Evelyne Robert (Coordonnatrice pédagogique parfumerie, Isipca), Dominique Roques (Directeur achats, Biolandes), Benoît Rouquayrol de Boisse (Dir. général, Comptoir Sud Pacifique), Patrick Saint-Yves (Directeur ventes et communication, Takasago), Luiz Seabra (President, Natura), Stéphane Seidel (Filiale Clarins, Allemagne), Dominique Silberstein (Photographe), Elisabeth Sirot (Directrice des Relations Presse, Parfums Guerlain), Julien Sprecher, Axel Berrier (Sprecher Berrier International), Jean-Pierre Subrenat (Président WPC France), Francis Thibaudeau (Directeur Parfumerie, Robertet), Sophie Thiolas (Directrice Marketing, Parfum d’Image Group), Bruno Truchon Bartes (Fragrance Director French area, Givaudan), Jacques Vaillant (Directeur Qualité, Quest Intern. France), Véronique Viaud (Rédactrice en chef, Cosmétique Magazine), Ulric Viellard (Parfums Ulric de Varens), Thierry Wasser (Parfumeur, Firmenich), Richard Zaoui (Directeur commercial, Ch. Wauters & Fils).
François Berthoud – Freddy Ghozland
Sophie d’Auber
Introduction
Gérard Delcour
President of the French Committee of Perfume
Foreword
Michael Edwards
STAKES AND PROFESSIONS IN PERFUMERY
Editions d’Assalit
“STAKES AND PROFESSIONS IN PERFUMERY”
A limited Edition
is only available on request at the following contact:
Sophie d’Auber - +33(0)6 60 63 68 80 - sdauber@
80 signatures, 256 pages, about 100 illustrations, size 21 x 23 cm
Retail Price : ¬ 42.65 tax excluded, ¬ 45 trations, size 21 x 23 cm
Retail Price : € 42.65 tax excluded, € 45 tax included (VAT 5.5%)
For quantities > 5 issues, please contact us for the price
For a delivery in France, the price includes transport for orders up to 10 books.
For higher quantities, transport costs will be charged on the invoice.
Transport costs outside of France will be invoiced.
STAKES AND PROFESSIONS IN PERFUMERY
Editions d’Assalit
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