Review 20131002



RoR Step-by-Step Review 20131002*

1990 Ford Mustang LX 1:25 Scale Revell Model Kit #85-4252 Review

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The Ford Mustang from the years of 1979 until 1993 was built on the platform known as the “Fox”. The fox body mustang was offered in many different versions. The popular LX model was a way for the consumer to get high performance without the high sticker price of the GT model. The LX had all of the power of the GT but none of the frills. In addition the LX coupe body style made for a lighter car. For the same reasons, the LX coupe was popular with state and some local police departments around the country. There were many changes made to the fox body Mustang from the previous, unsuccessful Mustang II. The original concept for the mustang was all about performance not found in the Mustang II but was incorporated into the fox body. Improvements such as the ’86 EFI (electric fuel injection) system and the “quad” shock system improved power and handling. The fox body style and new performance platforms made the fox body Mustang one of the most popular Mustangs of all time.

For the Modeler: This is a Revell Special Edition Series ’90 Mustang LX 5.0 Skill level 3 kit #85-4252 review. This kit contains 131 parts molded in white, chrome, transparent red, and clear. The kit’s waterslide decals are nicely done with stock and police versions and a nicely done instruction sheet. This kit features a detailed 5.0 liter V-8 engine, quad shock suspension system, police light bar, radio and rear spotlights. Finished dimensions are: Length: 7-1/4", Width: 3", Height: 2-3/8." Happy modeling!

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(Figures 100-0000a & b) When I first opened this kit I noticed nicely molded and detailed parts. The body and parts had little to no flash. Instruction sheet as with all newer Revell kits is very extensive including parts numbers, names, paint suggestions, info about the model and real life versions. The decals looked very well done with choices of stock and police versions.

Preparation:

(Figure 2074) Before beginning any work to the model we must wash all parts to remove any chemicals or any mold release agents that may have left any residue. To do this I simply soak all parts in warm water and dish washing liquid over night. Then I pull parts out of soapy water solution and rinse with cool water. I used were super glue (CA) and Micro Scale Micro Weld for the entire build until I got to the light reflectors (photo 2893 below) where some quick setting epoxy was required..

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(Figures, 2643 & 2646 The next step after washing all parts is to begin removing flash, mold lines and pin marks. This is a step I do to all my builds to give the model a more realistic and smooth look. First I begin by removing flash, mold lines and pin marks from body, being that the body is the largest part. After the body, I go through each parts tree doing the same steps. To remove the flash and other unwanted marks I use sanding sticks, emery boards and sand paper. I like to start with a medium grit then work my way to a fine grit. Examples are like 800, 1000 and 2000 grit sand paper. As in most revel kits these areas are minimal to none, making this step easier.

(Figure 2631) Even items like the Revell trademark on the gas tank need to be removed for realism.

Figures 2651, 2658 After removing all unwanted flash, pin marks, and mold lines I repeat step one to remove all unwanted dust or other particles and to prepare for primer coats (I use the same type water solution as in step 1). I usually only soak parts at this point for a couple hours then rinse with running water in my sink.

Paint and Detailing:

Figure 2680 Since the body will take the longest time to paint I started with the body first. First in the steps of painting is the primer coat. I usually spray a light to medium coat on first and allow to dry over night. Then I check body for any areas that may require more sanding, if none then I spray a medium to heavy coat next. Primer used on this kit was Krylon indoor/outdoor white primer. I also decided to use this primer as primary white on paint job.

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Figures 2687 The next step (to body) was a preparation step. Since I was building this Mustang as the police version there would be a two tone paint job. My next step was to tape off areas that I wanted to leave white so that I could spray the black areas. Tape used to do this was RustOleum automotive and 3m masking tape, that can be purchased at your local Wal-Mart. To tape these areas I simply cut a piece of tape to slightly cover past area I needed to leave white. Then using my X-acto knife I trimmed tape to shape. Make sure to use a new blade in X-acto knife so that you can get clean cuts.

Figure 2691 Sealing masking tape: To seal all taped areas so you don’t get any paint bleed through, I like to spray areas that are taped with a clear coat. This usually seals all tape with no issues. I allow the clear to dry over night. The paint used to accomplish this was RustOleum 2x clear purchased at my local Wal-Mart.

Figure 2706 After allowing clear to dry overnight we were ready for next color of paint (black). I first sprayed a light to medium coat then two coats of medium to heavy on areas not masked. For this step I used a store brand paint. Fred’s fast dry matte black ( Fred’s being a local dollar store). Then once I completed coats I allowed that to dry over night once again. Again, after allowing for paint to dry over night, I then removed all masking tape. After allowing for proper paint drying time, I then brushed on a light coat of Pledge Floor Shine with Future Shine as a clear coat to prepare for decal placement process. This is a must when using a flat or matte paint (black being the worst of all paints.). This keeps decals from having a silvering effect. Once again allowing the clear to dry overnight..

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Figure 2726 After allowing clear to dry I begin the decal process. To start the decal process I first placed small front fender decals then moved to door area. I then did the same for other side. After both side decals had set for a few minutes I then placed all decals on rear areas. Moving next to grille and hood, I placed the last of body decals. Seeing that this is a mustang I chose not to use police dog decals, I just didn’t think they fit the build being there isn’t any room for a police dog in rear of car and in my research of 1:1 car I did not find any k9 highway patrol cars. After completing decal placement I allowed decals to dry overnight.

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Figures 2616, 2617, 2618 At this point I determined it best for de-chroming some parts. First I gathered parts that I needed to remove the chrome from. In this case, I just needed to de-chrome all four rims so that I could paint them black later. I decided that I would try a new technique this time around to remove the chrome plating. I used cheap liquid drain cleaner. I just simply dropped parts in a plastic cup and let them set for a couple of minutes, then I rinsed parts with warm water.

Figures 2664, 2666 Sub assemblies: I first gathered rear axle: rear axle top 1, rear upper control arms and glued them together. Then I gathered engine parts like engine halves and engine heads, after gluing I then allowed all parts to dry before preparing for paint. I then gathered front seat and front seat backs and glued them together as well using micro scales micro weld to glue all sub assemblies together. Using clamps to hold parts together helps with gluing.

Figures 2735, Detail painting like the instrument panel is next. When I detail paint I have a couple of ways I like to do so, First I use Testors and Model Masters bottle paints with fine artists brushes to do some larger details. For the Smaller detail work I use same paints but chose to use a toothpick so not to paint unwanted areas. Detail painting to me just makes the build look so much more realistic I chose to do so on all my builds.

Figure 2749 Detail painting can sometime be done right on the plastic trees. If needed, they can be touched up easily after removal from the sprues.

Engine Assembly:

Figure 2770 For the engine assembly, first I gathered engine sub-assembly I put together earlier (2664), then I gathered the intake, water pump, oil pan, and valve covers. Then I started the assembly process gluing parts to engine sub assembly. Then I gathered engine belts and pulleys, power steering pump, air pump and alternator, then assembled these parts and allowed to dry.

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Also during this step I gathered the starter and glued starter to the right side of the engine assembly. At this point I needed to stop and allow all parts glued to dry thoroughly.

Figures 2809, 2815 Engine construction and wiring. Gathering assembled belts and pulleys, oil filter, oil fill tube, engine fan, exhaust manifolds and distributor, I prepared for more engine assembly. But before going further with assembly I had some decal placement to be done and engine prep for wiring. Decal placement used in this step was decal #10 to top of oil fill tube and decal #6 to side of oil filter, once placed decals where allowed to dry.

2830 For engine wiring, I first drilled holes on each end of the distributor using my pin vise and a small drill bit. At this time, I also drilled slightly larger holes in the heads in the same place using a slightly larger bit than before, allowing enough room for the spark plug boots. For the spark plug wires I used the small diameter wire from the AMT 57’ Chevy Bel Air Coca Cola kit. For spark plug boots I used the wire coating from a small telephone cable. It’s the same cable used to wire your home phone. Wiring the distributor on this kit is a simple process of placing four pieces of the small wire on each side and gluing it in place with some super glue gel. For wiring to the engine block I cut wires to the desired length then glued the boots to the wires using the same super glue. Then I glued the boots with the wire attached into the holes in the cylinder heads. After the wiring was complete, I then finished this step by gluing the other parts to the engine assembly.

Interior Assembly:

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Figure 100_2841 This part of interior assembly is for the police version only. First I gathered the interior floor, and by using my X-acto knife I cut open two small holes in rear dash as directed in instructions. Then I gathered emergency lights and emergency lenses. Instructions call for these to be clear but they are molded in transparent red. One must be transparent red and the other transparent blue. So to accomplish this I simply filled in one emergency light using clear 5 minute epoxy. Once dried I then painted that area transparent blue. I glued in red emergency lens in other emergency light and glued both to rear dash in previous drilled holes.

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Figure 100_2842 First gather the: center console, shifter, emergency brake handle, and arm rest. Next I gathered the sub assembly of front seats, rear seat, interior door panels, firewall and brake master cylinder. To begin this part of step I first glued in assembled center console, then rear and front seats. Next I added interior door panels then fire wall and allowed this to dry a few minutes. Then I glued brake master cylinder in place and allowed to dry completely. First gluing emergency brake handle then moving on to gluing shifter in place. Last of the assembly was on, I glued the arm rest into place. After assembling these parts I set assembly aside and allowed glue to dry.

Figures 2843, 2848 The next step in the interior process (since I am building the police version) was the radio assembly. Gathering radio cabinet, radio mount and police radio, I first glue radio cabinet to police radio and allowed a couple of minutes to dry. Then I glued radio mount. Next I gathered dash board and gauge panel. At this point there was some decal placement that must be done. Gathering decals 1 and 2 I prepared for placement. Taking the gauge panel and decal 1 I then placed decal in gauge area. Next taking dash board and decal 2 I placed decal 2 in the glove box area (right side). I then allowed decals to dry before moving on. At this point I also decided to place decals 8, 12, and 11. Each of these decals I placed in the front of the interior tub at the hood latch area. After all decals had dried properly I moved on with assembly. I gathered upper steering column and steering wheel. Taking gauge panel, upper steering column and steering wheel I assembled these parts. First I allowed them to dry then glued assembly to dash board. Next I took the police radio assembly and placed radio to the right side of the dash board. Then set aside for a few minutes to dry. Next I gathered the pedals and glued them to rear side of dash board underneath gauge panel. After pedals had dried for a few minutes I then placed assembled dash board into slots provided in the door panels (already glued to interior floor and interior assembly). The next step was to gather the battery and place it in the front left corner of the fender wells. Then I set all aside to allow for drying time.

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I gathered chassis, front cross member and assembled engine. First I glued cross member to chassis, allowed for a few minutes to dry then place glued assembled engine into chassis. As in all other steps I then set aside to allow for glue to dry fully.

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Before I could begin to start this step there would be some decal placement. Gathering the fan shroud, decals 7 and 8, I start decal placement. First placing decal #7 on the fill cap (on left side of shroud) then place decal #9 to middle of fan shroud. After allowing decals to dry I gathered the radiator and fan shroud, glued them together and set aside. Next I gathered radiator with shroud, top radiator hose, and bottom radiator hose. I first glued radiator with shroud to front side of chassis. Next I glued bottom radiator hose into place then glued top radiator into place. Next I gathered chassis and interior assembly, and then placed them together. Once again I set all aside and allowed glue to dry.

In this step I began suspension assembly. Gathering chassis, interior assembly, rear coil springs, exhaust and front sway bar. First I took front sway bar and glued it into place, and then I took real coil springs and glued them into place. Next was the placement and gluing of exhaust. I set this aside and allowed time to dry. Then I gathered rear end sub assembly (mentioned in sub assemblies) and differential cover, gluing these parts together and letting dry. After the rear differential assembly was dry I gathered the drive shaft and rear sway bar. First I glued driveshaft and rear differential into place, then glued rear sway bar into place. Next I gathered rear shocks and rear horizontal shocks placing one of each to each side of rear differential.

Figure 2854 After gluing these parts in place I once again set it aside to allow it to dry.

Then I gathered the front suspension, front coil springs, and the steering rack. First I glued front coil springs to front suspension then I glued the front steering rack in place. I then set front suspension aside to allow glue to dry. The next step was to gather the front struts. Taking the front struts and front suspension, I glued them to the chassis.

Figure 2860 In this step I gathered the tires and rims, placing them together but not gluing tires to rims. Each tire has a directional tire pattern, make sure you have them facing in the correct direction. Next I gathered front brakes, pin retainers (there is 4 of these), rear brake drums, and 4 metal pins. First I placed metal pins through pin retainers and glued them to front brakes and rear brake drums. Once glue dried I then glued them one each to back side of rims.

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Insert these assemblies into the front and rear axle locations and you have a rolling chassis.

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Figure 2872 Glue the interior tub to the chassis pan and let it dry.

Figure 2893 Gathering tail light reflectors, rear view mirror, dome light and body I begin this step. First I glued the dome light and rear view mirror to interior top of body. Next I placed tail light reflectors into rear inside of body and glued from the interior side one by one. Then set aside and allowed to dry. Next was window placement and in this kit windows are placed from outside of body instead of the inside like most kits. To glue windows into place I used clear 5 minute epoxy. I glued by placing small amounts of epoxy around outer edge of window frames on body using a toothpick then I carefully placed each window into place.

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Figure 2891 In this step I gathered the head light buckets, head light lenses (molded in clear), tail lights (molded in transparent red), and back up lights (molded in clear). First I glued the head light buckets into place. Then I moved to the rear of car so to allow glue to dry on headlight buckets. At the rear of car I did the same process as for windows (using 5 minute epoxy) gluing the tail lights in first then the backup lights. Then I moved back to headlight lenses and did the same process. Five minute epoxy used in this step was just the cheapest clear epoxy I could find at my local Wal-Mart. Next I placed body and rolling chassis together, lightly gluing and allowing it to dry.

Figure 2746 Gathering intake plenum, cold air intake, cold air intake top, and decal 5 I was ready to begin this step. First I had to place decal 5 to top of intake plenum, and allow it to dry. Then I glued intake plenum, cold air intake, and cold intake top. Then I took the intake assembly and glued assembly to top of engine. Next the hood could be placed on (remember not to glue the hood).

Final Assembly:

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Figures 2911 & 2930 . Gather the windshield wipers, mirror housings, mirrors, light bar tops, light bar base, and light bar brackets. First glue mirror housings and mirrors together. Then glue the light bar tops to the light bar base. Next glue the light bar brackets to the light bar base. While allowing these assemblies to dry I placed (glued) the windshield wiper into place. After allowing the mirrors to dry I then glued them into the proper place on each side. Next I glued the light bar assembly to the top of the car. Then I set the completed model aside and allowed it to cure (dry) overnight before handling it.

Kit Issues:

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Figure 2950 & 2955 the only real issue I found with this kit was the emergency light lenses. These lenses are supposed to be molded in clear so they can be painted transparent blue and transparent red, but both lenses are molded in transparent red. Being molded in red, painting one transparent blue (correctly) is more difficult.

Overall:

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Figure 9999 My thoughts on this kit after all was said and done is that this was another well done kit by Revell. It’s well molded and has many optional parts, this made for a fun build. Only having to do minimal flash removal and preparation work made for a great experience. I personally recommend this kit to any experienced modeler (seeing as it is a skill level 3). I am looking forward to getting another one of these kits and building the stock version. All I can really say is pick up one of these kits, build it and have fun!

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