New Pool Owners Information and Tips Guide



New Pool Owners Information and Tips Guide

Courtesy of

Spa & Pool Service Inc.

2235 Old Washington Road

Waldorf, MD 20601

301-843-0400

1) How Many Gallons is my pool?

If you are not sure measure the pools length and width at it’s widest and longest section. Is the pool all the same depth or is there a deep end?( If you don't have a measuring tape, count the toe to toe steps it takes you to walk from one end to the other. Repeat this from one side to the other.)Having this information we can compute the gallons so not to over or under chemicalize your pool. Also if you bought the house with an existing pool we might have the address already in our computer under the previous owners name.

2) What type of filter does your pool use? Sand Filter ? D.E.

( Diatomaceous Earth ) ? Cartridge ? How does it operate?

Unsure which type? One clue, is there a bag or box of white powder in the pool shed? Also getting the name and or numbers off of the filter will help us figure out which filter it is. Another helpful thing is to take a Polaroid picture and bring it in to us. All three types of filters are used and clean in specific ways.

Sand Filter – Actually uses sand as the filter media to remove debris from the pool water. For above ground pools it is recommended to change the sand every year. If you do not change it, it should at least be cleaned with a degreaser. ( Strip Kwik )

In ground pools should have the filter sand changed every three years and degreased every year in between.

Over time the sand becomes gunked up from filtering debris and sand actually forms channels through it much like an ant farm. This means the water as it passes through the filter will follow the path of least resistance. Flowing through these channels no longer filtering. Letting debris go back into the pool causing it to become cloudy. If you are unsure when the sand was last changed as a precaution we recommend that you go ahead and change it with the proper poundage of no# 20 silica sand. It is important too use the correct amount of sand for the diameter of filter you have so the filter will run efficiently.

Remember this: A sand filter actually runs it's most efficient with a little dirt in it. Do not backwash a sand filter unless you have put your hand in front of the return line to the pool and the water is flowing very sluggish. If the water pressure pushes your hand 2 to 3 feet away from the wall, leave the filter alone.

D.E. – ( Diatomaceous Earth ) - Is a white non chemical powder which coats the inside of the D. E. (filter called grids or fingers). This powder is the filtering media which strains dirt from the pool water. The appropriate amount of D.E. should be applied to your filter after every backwash cycle. Do this by removing the skimmer basket and slowly pour the D.E. powder down through the skimmer ( 4 to 6 pounds). Running your filter without it will ruin it. These filters need to be periodically cleaned with Muratic Acid. Ask us for an explanation of this. ( This is one of the rare things which can be put down through the skimmer.) see No# 6 and No# 7- 1b

Cartridge- These filters are made of a folded material called polymer. It is tightly folded and the folds are used to catch the debris from the pool. When possible there should be two cartridges. One which is

in the filter and one that has been cleaned and is in the shed ready for use.

These are the least efficient filters and since they are made of polymer

they must have the opportunity to dry so they can shrink back into place.

If they are not allowed to dry occasionally they tend to stretch and not

filter properly.

3) Follow a weekly schedule for chemical treatment of the pool. This should insure a sanitized and safe pool for all to enjoy.

The typical weekly maintenance includes the following using chlorine as the pool sanitizer. For nonchlorine pools use the same balancing chemicals but check what the sanitizer levels should be with a pool professional.

a) Chlorine level should be held at 3.0 to 5.0

Or appropriate amount of the sanitizer you use

b) PH level should be held at 7.4 to 7.6 ( cooked shrimp color ) this level changes to 7.4 to 7.8 for a Biguanide

c) Keep chlorine in all skimmers at all times.

d) Once a week add Burnout at dusk, follow up the next morning with the appropriate amount of algaecide and clarifier.

e) Use your test kit at least 2 to 4 times a week.

f) If you use another sanitizer other than chlorine ask your pool professional about weekly maintenance.

g) If you use another form of sanitizer other than chlorine see your pool professional for the proper level it should be maintained at.

Hint: PH - If the ph will not stay stable no matter how much ph up you put into the pool, have the water tested. It is most likely an Alkalinity problem. Alkalinity is the buffer which controls ph. If it is not in balance the ph level will fluctuate, but once the level of Alkalinity reaches a certain level it will become very acidic which ph up can no longer work. Being unsafe for use causing dry skin and itching. On the other hand a high ph causes cloudy water and the eyes to burn.

4) Having the pool water professionally analyzed ( every 3 to 4 weeks or if you are having a problem or more often if the weather has been very erratic-rain water is very acidic) will help insure that the pool water stays sanitized and balanced. You will also find that doing a little weekly maintenance along with having the water balanced that the pool will run more cost effectively. Bring a quart of pool water in a clean container (such as a milk jug, soda bottle, etc.,(not a bottle which has had chemicals in it) or in the water sample bottle provided by your pool store.

5) What do you use as a sanitizer? Chlorine? Soft Swim? Biquanide? Salt? Nature 2? Bromine? If your not sure, take an inventory of what chemicals are there at the house ( If any were left by the previous owner.) and we will try to help you figure it out. It is important for you to know what these chemicals do and how to use them. Some chemicals are not compatible and if mixed will cause a chemical reaction.

a) Chlorine Tablets or Sticks- (Trichloro-S-Triazinetrone) are stabilized chlorine compressed into one inch tablets, three inch tablets and eight ounce sticks. They put directly into the skimmer basket of an in ground pool. For an above ground pool they are usually placed in a plastic pool floater. Whether you use tablets or sticks is up to you. It comes down to personal preference. Never mix brands.

b) Soft Swim ( Biguanide) This is a milder organic sanitizer which is said to make the water feel softer. We recommend the use of this product for those people with allergies. Soft Swim will clog a D.E. filter very quickly. Therefore it is not recommended that you use Soft Swim if you have a D.E. filter. Soft Swim products are poured directly into the pool water.

c) Salt - (Granular or Pellet) When administered to your pool water the salt will dissolve. It then flows through a salt generator, placed up by your filter, which actually turns the salt into a chlorine gas. The generator then injects the gas back into the water giving the pool a chlorine reading. Salt is introduced to the water in one of two ways. Pellet salt is put into a basin, which is located near the pool filter system. Granular is poured directly into the pool water. ( Contrary to what some say, you must still shock your pool with regular shock. A salt generator can not shock the pool water sufficiently. Especially if you have algae.)

d) Nature 2- is a mineral pack using silver and zinc. When used together these are very effective sanitizers, which can be used with little or no chlorine. We recommend that you use the low chlorine recipe as a back up though.

e) Bromine - is a milder unstable sanitizer. You must use Oxysheen ( a non-chlorine shock ) as your weekly shock.

6) ALWAYS Add Chemical to Water --- NEVER WATER TO CHEMICAL - With a chlorine you can actually cause a flash fire to walk across water. NEVER pour anything down through the skimmer unless specifically told to by your pool professional.

Shock should never in any case be poured down a skimmer. It should ALWAYS be poured directly into the pool. Shock is very acidic and without the dilution of the pool water will eat away at the pool pump and filter. Also if by chance you forgot did not remove the chlorine tablets or sticks from the skimmer before pouring the shock down into it you could cause a chemical reaction.

7) Multiport Valve Positions - Normal operation involves filtering, backwashing, rinse, and occasionally the waste and recirculate positions.

This is the valve with a handle that sits on top of or to the side of the filter controlling the water flow.

a) Filter - position does just that. Runs water through the filter media cleaning it and then returning it to the pool.

b) Backwashing - involves reversing the flow of the water through the filter flushing out the debris. The dirty water will flow out a flexible backwash hose ( blue in color ) onto the ground. Do not backwash a sand filter unless the pressure of the water returning to the pool has become very sluggish. You determine this by putting your hand in front of the return line. If the water flow pushes your hand two or three feet away leave the backwash alone. If it only pushes your hand a foot away go ahead and backwash. Remeber after backwashing a D.E. filter you must administer the D.E. powder back into the filter. The dirty powder will have been flushed out.

c) Rinse - resets the sand after back washing. This position should be used on every sand filter for a few seconds after back washing before returning the handle to the filter position. This function resettles the sand in the filter tank.

d) Waste - sends the water out the backwash hose without it going through the filter housing disturbing the filter media. This position is recommended for use when trying to pump excess water from the pool or when trying to vacuum dead algae out of the pool keeping it from entering the filter where it can become lodged and reinfest the pool.

e) Recirculate - Used only in specific cases of trying to treat the pool chemically or if the filter housing is cracked, this setting is a temporary way to keep the pool up and running until you can change the tank.

NOTES -

1a) Always turn the handle on the multiport ( some are mounted on top of the filter some are mounted on the side ) one direction. Clock wise or counter clock wise, choose a direction and stick with it. Going back and forth rocks the gasket in the multiport out of place causing water to leak past the gasket and out the backwash line. If this gasket goes bad it can empty the pool of water over night.

Each time BEFORE you change the position of the multiport valve you should turn the pool motor off. Then turn it back on after the handle is in the correct position.

1b) A Bump filter (which uses Diatomaceous Earth- D.E. for short) does not have any of these multiport positions. BUMP FILTER - On this type of filter you pull the handle on the top of the filter up and let it fall back into position using the handles own weight to pull it back down. Repeat 2 to 3 times. This causes the D.E. to fall off of the fingers (tenticles) inside of the filter. You can then unthread the plug at the bottom of the filter letting the dirty D.E. be flushed out. When adding D.E. it is applied the same as any other D.E. filter, through the skimmer.

8) Valve settings- If you have a main drain in the deep end of your pool (mostly found on In Ground pools), that valve should be opened completely running full throttle. The skimmer valve should always be set so it skims only the top of the water. Preferably, at half throttle. Once you have determined what each valve does, it is highly recommended that you tag, and or label all of them.

9) Does my pool have a leak?

Answer these questions first before proceeding.

1)Is it the pool which is losing water or the plumbing?

2)Is there any water on the ground by the filter? or

3)Is there a soft spot on the ground around the pool, farther into the yard, or even in the neighbors yard?

4) Are you adding water to the pool more often than you think you should have to?

Question No#1

a) First thing you do is fill the pool to its appropriate point. Whether your pool is a plaster pool, liner pool, in ground or above ground.

b) Turn off your pool motor and then use your winter plugs to close off the pool intake and return lines.

c) Close the valve for the main drain. ( If there is one. )

d) Tighten all faceplates- they may have loosened or the gasket could have gone bad

e) Put a small piece of tape at the water line and let the pool sit over night.

f) If the water level has dropped over night your leak is most likely in the liner or plaster shell.

g) If the water level has not dropped the leak is most likely in the plumbing.

Once this is determined we can better tell you how to go about fixing the problem.

Question No# 2

1)If there is water by the filter system check all the fittings and see if water is leaking from them.

2)Check the filter housing it self for any cracks.

3)Check the housing of the pump ( usually black colored pot with lid attached to actual motor). This housing will some times crack just below where it connects to the filter hose from the pool or at its base.

4)Check to see if the seal is leaking in between the motor and the pump housing. You won't be able to see the seal but you should be able to determine if water is leaking there.

Question No# 3

1)For an in ground pool- Check off all of the above from the possibilities then schedule to have a pressure test done on the plumbing lines. One may be cracked underground. Water will seek the path of least resistance and can actually be come up out of the ground in the neighbors yard.

For an above ground pool- Check off all of the above- If it is the liner water will follow the path of least resistance. Meaning the pool can be losing water at one end and it will travel around the pool and seep out from under the wall at the point of least resistance. The same holds true for in ground pools.

Question No#4 -

1) Check off all the above.

2) Using a Leak Detector kit while the pool is shut down should help you locate a leak in a pool liner. This is a dye kit that we can explain to you how to use.

10) When can I swim? - If you have your water balanced on a regular basis you can determine when it is safe to swim by using your test kit there at home. If you chlorine as the sanitizer as long as the Chlorine reading is 3.0 to 5.0 and the P.H. reading is 7.4 to 7.6 it is safe to swim. If you use a non chlorine sanitizer make sure the levels are within range. If you are adding balance chemicals to the pool the same rule holds true. Balance chemicals are irrelevant to swimming as long as the Chlorine and P.H. are with in range.

11) My Chlorine is to high. - If you have a liquid test kit as long as the color in the yellow test chamber does not turn brown the Chlorine is not too high. A dark yellow color is best. If you use the test strips a dark color is still good but you might want to have us test a sample.

12) What is shock and what does it do? How do I use it? In a chlorine pool shock is unstabilized chlorine which is designed to take the chlorine count up past ten (10) parts per million to kill bacteria. This is too high of a chlorine count for you to swim in. Because of this we always recommend that you shock the pool at dusk on an evening that no one will be swimming. This most likely should be on Sunday nights. Follow up the next day with algaecide and the appropriate amount of clarifier if needed.

In a non-chlorine pool the shock is a liquid which is pour directly into the pool. Check with your pool professional.

Chlorine shock works best in the evening because it is unstable chlorine the sun tends to pull it back out of the water very quickly. Using it during the day is a waste of your money.

There are several ways to apply a chlorine shock to the pool water. The most common way of doing this is just to pour it directly into the pool. Some people will tell you to put shock down through the skimmer to disburse it into the water better. Please do not do this. By putting shock down through the skimmer you can clog the pools plumbing as if you put cement down through them. If you pour the shock down the skimmer with out removing the skimmer basket with tablets or sticks in it you can cause an explosion. When trying to help you decide how much shock to apply to your pool we need to know is if the pool is clear or is there algae in the water? Is the pool made of plaster, or vinyl, and how many gallons the pool is.

a) Calcium Hypochlorite Shock - Made for White Plaster pools but useable in vinyl. When administering to White Plaster pools pour directly in to the pool water.

NEVER- NEVER - NEVER POUR SHOCK DOWN INTO THE SKIMMER

When administering to Vinyl pools if put directly into the pool this shock over time can cause bleaching of the liner. You must pull a bucket of water from the pool and pour the shock into the bucket. Dilute it for five (5) minutes and pour only the milky solution into the pool. The white crystals in the bottom of the bucket should be discarded into the bushes. It is nothing but calcium, which makes the shock safe for shipping. Use one (1) one pound per ten thousand (10,000) gallons of pool water. Do not put the calcium crystals in the trashcan. When the pool water is green you must adjust the ph level to 7.2 to 7.3 . Than administer triple the amount of shock that you normally use. The pool should turn a milky blue, if not it is possible that you did not use enough shock to kill the amount of bacteria in the water and you should use even a higher dosage.

Note: Calcium based shocks can make the pool water a little cloudy. Using a clarifier the next morning should help pull the cloudiness out.

b) Lithium Hypochlorite Shock - Made for vinyl liner pools. Also used in pools which have a very high calcium count. You can pour this directly into any pool. It will not bleach or add any calcium to the water. NEVER POUR SHOCK DOWN INTO THE SKIMMER Use one (1) pound per Six Thousand (6,000) gallons. When the pool water is green you must adjust the ph to 7.2 to 7.3 . Then administer triple the amount of shock that you normally use.

c) Oxysheen - A non-chlorine shock used on pools and spas. You can swim fifteen minutes later after using this oxidizer.

13) Motor sucks air or won't hold prime - Quick fix: check the weir door on the skimmer, it may be stuck in an up position not letting water pass by it into the skimmer. Also if the water level is low stick the hose in the pool and add water to the pool bringing it up to level. If the water level has dropped below the skimmer faceplate, it can not, be pulled by the pump.

The water you see flowing through the pump housing should have no air bubbles. No turbulence. If there is some, take the lid off, clean up the threads, and clean and put some lithium grease on the o-ring. Reseal and watch. If the o-ring looks to be stretched replace it. The pump housing should always have water in it. Make sure the water level is up and flowing into the skimmer.

Note: 1) You should take the time to look over your plumbing, pump housing, skimmer, and any hoses. A fine crack in any of these items can cause the motor to suck air. Some pump housings can crack around the bottom or around the threaded connection.

2 ) In the spring the most common reason why a pool motor will not prime or pull sufficient water flow is that there is an obstruction in the impeller. Separate the pump housing from the motor exposing the impeller and remove the debris. Then replace the housing.

14) How do I vacuum ? - To remove the fine debris and or dead algae that will accumulate at the bottom of your pool during the summer you must occasionally vacuum it. To do this, attach the swivel end of the vacuum hose to the vacuum head. Then attach the telescopic pole to the handle of the vacuum. Place the head down into the pool water leaning the pole against the side of the pool wall. Now, attach what is called a vac plate to the other end of the hose, place this end in front of the return line of the pool (where the water returns to the pool from the filter system) watching the air bubbles rise from the vacuum head as the hose fills with water. Once the hose is full of water hold your hand over the opening of the vac plate walk over and place the vac plate on top of the skimmer basket. ( Note: A vac plate is used to prevent leaves, toys, and large debris from being sucked into the plumbing causing a costly plumbing problem.) A suction will occur holding the vac plate and hose in place so you may slowly move the vacuum back and forth by the pole cleaning the bottom of the pool.

15) There is sand going back into the pool.

If you have a sand filter there is most likely a busted lateral inside of the pool filter. You must take the filter apart and fix it. This type of damage will not get better, only worse. Even a small hole in one lateral can send all of the sand out of the filter and in to the pool within a matter of hours. You must turn off the filter system. Shut any valves near the system so water will not drain from the pool. Take the drain cap off of the bottom of the filter tank. Let all the water from the tank drain out. When this is completed remove the multiport (valve) from the top of the filter and scoop out the sand from the tank. Now you can locate and replace the broken lateral or laterals. When replacing the sand into the tank remember to put water into the tank just above the laterals. By doing this first the water will let the sand flow around the laterals so it goes beneath them and supports them. If you don't put some water in first the sand lands on the laterals, pushing down and possibly snapping one or more.

16) There is dirt or sand inside of the pump housing.

If there is a main drain it is possible that it has developed a crack in the plumbing lines. There can also be a crack in any suction line whether it be the main drain or a skimmer line. Schedule for us to come out and do a pressure test on the lines.

Note: If this is a new pool it is possible that the plumbing just might have a little dirt in it from when it was being laid.

17) I'm losing a lot of water out of the pool because it is escaping out of the back wash line.

The gasket inside of the multiport valve has gone bad. You must get the information off of the valve top and bring it to the store with you. Write down any numbers you see on the valve or filter. We must know what valve it is to be able to give you the correct gasket. If necessary take a picture or draw a picture of it.

To replace this gasket you turn off the system and remember what position, the handle is in, remove the top of the valve, and remove the old gasket. You might have to use a flat head screw driver to wedge it all out of it's spot. Place the new gasket back in place. Then just before you place the top back on rub a little lithium grease on it and then replace the top.

A quick fix until you get to the pool store is to turn off the system, remove the backwash hose and take one of your winter plugs placing it into the port that the back wash hose was attached to. This will stop the water from escaping allowing the system to still circulate the water, but this is only a temporary solution. You must fix the gasket.

18) Chemicals levels should be maintained at the following.

Sanitizer

Chlorine 3.0 to 5.0

Bromine 3.0 to 5.0

Soft Swim 30 to 50 ppm

Nature 2 .5 to 1.0 ( Chlorine level as a back up for the mineral pack)

PH

With Chlorine 7.4 to 7.6

With Bromine 7.4 to 7.6

With Soft Swim 7.4 to 7.8

With Nature 2 7.4 to 7.6

Alkalinity

With Chlorine----------- Vinyl pool --125ppm to 150ppm

Plaster pool--110 to 150ppm

With Bromine------------------ Vinyl pool -- 125 to 150 ppm

Plaster pool--110 to 150 ppm

With Soft Swim---------------- 125 to 150 ppm

With Nature 2------------------- 125 to 150 ppm

Calcium

With Chlorine------------------- Vinyl pool --175 to 225 ppm

Plaster-------200 to 275

With Bromine------------------- Vinyl pool --175 to 225 ppm

Plaster pool --200 to 275 ppm

With Soft Swim----------------- Vinyl pool --175 to 225 ppm

Plaster pool--200 to 275 ppm

With Nature 2------------------- Vinyl pool--175 to 225 ppm

Plaster pool --200 to 275 ppm

19) I have green water.

Most likely you have an algae in the water. Low alkalinity or metals

in the water can cause a green hue but have your water professionally

checked most likely you just need to adjust the ph level and shock the pool

water with at least triple the amount of shock that you normally use.

20) When I opened my pool this spring I saw there is a big stain on the

walls and or floor.

Come talk to us before you shock the pool, but have the pool up and

running for at least 24 to 48 hours so you can bring a good water

sample with you. It's possible that it is just an algae stain but it is better to be

safe about it.

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