Laser Cut Kits For The Model Railway Modeller - Railway ...
COLCHESTER 104 - TMD OFFICE BLOCK*****PLEASE READ THROUGH THE INSTRUCTIONS FIRST*****REMEMBER THIS KIT WILL REQUIRE SANDING IN PARTS AND IS MADE FROM MDF WHICH CREATES DUST WHICH SHOULD NOT BE BREATHED IN - WEAR AN APPROPRIATE MASK WHEN SANDING OR DO IT IN A WELL VENTILATED AREA.Items Required to build this kit (which are not included):-Primer - Variant in coloursAcrylic/Enamel paintPVA glue or equivalentSuper Glue (optional)Sharp Craft Knife/Scalpel/Zippy BladeSanding BlockSandpaperPencil90 degree square (optional)PaintbrushesMasking tapeProtective glovesAfter checking all pieces are present, we highly recommend that you prime/paint some of the pieces before assembly, however, please do read through the instructions first.For priming, we use Halfords Car Primer, in white (other primers are available but have found these to be of the better quality).WHITE PRIMERPaint the following:-Internal sides of the skeleton framework (making sure these are the correct way around)Ceilings of the interior cross panels (middle and top parts)Bottom and Top room dividers (both sides)Door Pack (one side)Window Pack (one side)Stairway covering (one side)Lift Pack 2 (one side)THE BUILD:1. Skeleton Framework - To make the skeleton framework we need the base,two sides and the two ends The base will only fit one way, so dry check this to make sure you have this the correct way (you can always mark it as this will not be seen). Once we’ve checked the base fits with the side panels the correct way, you will also want to mark the exterior sides with a pencil as these will be the sides facing outwards and will NOT require painting. As the inner sides will form part of the internal design, you need to paint this, we used Halfords White Car Primer. In a well ventilated area and using an appropriate mask, apply a first coat lightly which will form the key to the next couple of coats. Allow to dry and then build up the next couple of coats to all panels to a desired finish. Again, allow to dry fully before using these pieces. Now that these pieces are dry, you can glue them all together to form the internal skeleton framework. Apply PVA glue to the edge of the top of the base, also on the inner edges of the parts that fit into the base. Make sure that you have the framework at 90 degree angles at each corner and that every panel is fitting as tight to each other panel as possible. Wipe away an excess glue with a damp brush.Put framework away to one side and allow to dry fully,preferably overnight.Lift Pack (x2) - Using a craft knife/scalpel/zippy blade, remove the pieces from the template and lightly sand any parts left over.The top two parts are the front and rear, the bottom left parts are the sides and once all glued together, you can add a small amount of glue to the inner side of the lift hole and maneouvre the lift doors in place, making sure that they are flush with the bottom of the lift and centralised too. Remember to remove any excess glue from the inside and outside with a damp brush. Allow to dry.Once dry, you can then paint the lift. We used a flat aluminium acrylic colour and painted the whole inside and then the front of the lift, along with the lift doors. From the window pack, cut out the 4 small square pieces to fit inside the lift doors using a small amount of glue around the edges.You need to white prime the lift pack 2, so do this,giving it a few coats to cover….allow to dry.Cut the lift front cover away from the template, add some glue to the back of this piece and fit over the front of the lift, making sure a flush fit around the inner edges of the lift door area. The remaining parts in the template that you need to cut out are the surrounds that include the lift button and we also painted this in flat aluminium, making sure you paint the edges as these will show.Once fully dried you can now add this surround to the lift. You will notice after fitting this that the front cover edge now shows white between the aluminium, so simply paint around the inside edges to cover.Move these to one side and these will be fitted later.Stairway Pack (x2) - Cut all the pieces out from the template,lightly sand where required. Firstly, make up the stairway exterior back panels up and the internal front sections. The exterior stairway back panels must be at 90 degrees to make sure everything fits. The sides only fit one way so again, dry check prior to assembly.When glueing together, make sure the wordings on the panels are facing outwards as the back panel will be white primered. The front internal sections will have cladding around it. Allow to dry fully.Making up the stairs - Each stairway step is numbered. Glue pieces 1 to 5 on top of each other (make sure the numbers are facing downwards). Use the back panel as a guide to getting these all spot on. Make sure you only use a very small amount of glue here as we do not want glue seeping out to the sides. A small dab in the centre of each piece will suffice. Put these to one side once dryNow glue pieces 6 to 11 on top of each other, then add pieces 12 to 19, again using the back panel to give a correct fitting. Put these to one side once dry.Finally, glue pieces 20 to 33 on top of each other and then pieces 34 and 35, using the side back panel for correct fitting. Put these to one side once dry.Step 36 is 1mm and included on the ‘stairway covering’ pack. Depending on how you’ve glued 20-35, you may or may not need this piece. You will find out once we fit the stairway to the interior section.White primer the inside of the rear panel inside and on the outside of the side panels. Apply a few coats to cover. Allow to dry. While you are white priming these, the ‘stairway covering pack’ can be white primed at the same time.Now all the steps have been put together, you now need to paint these. We used Precision Paints ‘Weathered Concrete’ enamel paint. Paint only the tops of the steps,and just to the sides to cover where the steps are. There is no need to paint the whole of the sides. Whilst you are painting these, all the window and door ledges ideally need painting and we used the same colour here, so we painted all these at the same time. However, this is only our guide!You can now go back to the internal front section we made and this will now require the cladding to be glued around this. Cut the 3 covering panels from the template. It is worth dry checking first to make sure that the coverings all fit flush. If they do not, you may need to sand the internal section sides so the coverings do fit flush. REPEAT FOR THE SECOND STAIRWAY PACK - hopefully, you have read through the instructions first and make the two up at the same time!4. Ledges Pack - As mentioned above, if you are painting the steps in a concrete colour, it is an ideal time to get hold of the ledges pack and give these a coat of paint. These may need 2 coats. Also, when you cut them out from the template, you will need to paint the edges of these as they will be visible.5. Internal interior pull-out section - You can now concentrate on doing the internal interior section. We need to get the 3 internal floor pieces. Get the base floor, middle floor and top floor and make sure that these are the right way around. You can tell with the middle floor as the cut out section for the stairways to fit through are at the front of the building, with the majority of the wall divider holes also to the right (see image).The above image - 1st piece (top one in the image) is the bottom base and you do NOT need to prime this piece. Get the tile pack piece (below image) that matches the holes, apply some glue or spray adhesive to the panel and gently align the tile piece over the top to match. We started at the right side of the panel and made sure it’s aligned whilst gradually working our way down the panel. Take your time doing this. Put to one side.The 2nd piece (middle one in the image) is the 1st floor panel. You need to white prime the underside of this panel as this will create the ground floor ceiling. We marked the top with an ‘X’ with a pencil to remind us NOT to paint that side but do the other side! Apply a few coats to make good as per the internal skeleton framework we did earlier. Allow to dry.The 3rd piece (bottom one in the image) is the 1st floor ceiling/roof and therefore you also need to white prime the underside of this piece, again, marking the top with an ‘X’ in pencil. You do NOT need to do anything to the that side as we will be glueing the top frame overlay to this part later. Again, leave to dry.Go back to the centre piece and add the other tile pack to the non primed side, following as we did above. You now have our three internal sections complete, it’s time to turn our attention to the bottom and top wall dividers, along with the two end panels.These will need to be white primed BOTH sides, (APART FROM THE END PANELS, THESE ONLY REQUIRE PAINTING ON ONE SIDE, these are the two left items with three holes in, so once painted, you can cut these out of the template before priming the other side of the remaining dividers, this will save you primer too!), so do one side at a time, do a few coats to cover the dividers. Allow to dry and then complete the other sides, allow to dry.Each template dividers are numbered i.e A1/2/3 etc.Take the base internal floor and then add the left hand end panel first (A1), adding glue to the base holes and also on the underside of the end panel as this will need to be bonded well. You may need to hold this end panel in place for a few minutes to set,or offer something up against it to secure at 90 degrees to the base panel. Then add the bottom floor dividers into the appropriate holes, starting from left-to-right, A2, A3 etc (LEAVE THE RIGHT HAND END PANEL (A9) UNTIL WE COME TO ADD THE TOP PANEL ON OTHERWISE IT WILL NOT FIT!) You will need to add some PVA with a small brush into the internal floor section and cut out each dividing section from the template with a sharp craft knife or similar, one at a time as you glue them. This way, you won’t fit the wrong divider in the wrong hole! Put to one side and allow to dry.Next, do the internal 1st floor dividers. Fit B1 to the panel, then B2 to B7 all join to each other (see image) and it is easier to glue these together prior to fitting in the internal floor holes. ADD IMAGE HERE OF B2-B7 JOINED TOGETHER!Add some PVA to the divider hole and fit B1. Then, away from the internal floor section, join B2 to , B3 (towards the front) and B4 (towards the rear). Then add B5 up to the ends of B3 and B4, making sure the the two holes next to each other on B5 divider are at the front. These parts will form a rectangle. Then add B6 to the front remaining hole of B5, with the door end on B6 furthest away to the right. You can then add B7 to the other end of B6. Whilst these are starting to set, offer them all up into their appropriate floor holes, adding glue prior into the holes and making sure that none over-spills to the other side as this is the ceiling. If so, wipe away with a damp brush. This part is fiddly, but we’ve allowed slightly bigger holes on the internal panel to allow for the priming of the dividers, so they should fit in nicely without too much issue. Take your time doing this and it will pay off. Once this is all dry, fit the centre interior floor panel up to the bottom floor panel, inserting into the end panel (A1) holes (add some glue) and gently pushing into all the bottom dividers, add a small amount of glue to the inner holes of the centre panel so when pushed in, this will help with bonding it together. Wipe away any excess glue with a damp brush. Your centre panel should now fit nicely onto the bottom panel. Allow to dry.Before fitting the other end panel (A9), you need to fit the stairways in at both ends and the lifts. Now, the stairways are a tight fit so be extremely careful when pushing through as there is little support at the front. If the worst happens and you accidentally break the piece, you may be able to glue it back in position. It won’t affect its stability and won’t be seen through the windows, its only there to enable support through of the end panels. Once happy that the stairways are in, gently lift them up a bit and add some glue underneath the stairways and then fit back in position, making sure they still fit flush. Allow to dry. Now, do the same with the top lifts, dry fit into position and butt this up against the side of the stairways checking that it does not overhang the side of the floor panel. If you have put too much paint on the sides of the stairways, you may need to lightly sand the edges of the lifts to it. Once happy that it is correct, take some glue and add a little to the underneath of the lifts and place in position, wiping away any glue. Allow to dry.The bottom lifts can be placed in afterwards, glue in position, as above. Also, the interior doors can now be added, either in a closed or open position and you have the option of painting these in a different colour if preferred. Add a small dab of glue on the underside of the bottom of the door and fit accordingly. Wipe away any excess glue with a damp brush.Roof Top Overlay - The roof overlay now needs to be made and is made up of a base plate and 6 side pieces (see image)Add some glue to the edges of the the long strips and fit together (see above image as these are facing the right way) .Each side has two parts that will require glueing together at 90 degrees before fitting to the edge of the top panel overlay.The left ends parts only fit ONE way and one is etched to show which way they go. They will NOT fit the other way around. Once these are starting to bond, glue along the top edges of the roof panel overlay and fit the two long ends first, then the small end piece. These should all fit together and once done, we turned the panel over to get an even edge all the way around. Wipe away any glue around the edges with a damp brush and also on the other side, albeit we will be painting this roof, it still pays to make sure there are no unsightly lumps of glue left!Allow this to dry fully. Once dry, we can check that this fits inside the skeleton framework. It should be a nice tight fit, but allowing to lift out without too much resistance. Light sanding inside the inner edge of the roof overlay may help with it fitting if required.Next, place the internal section inside the skeleton frame and again this should drop nicely inside without any resistance. If there is, then either the tile floor overlay is sticking out one side and not fully flush, so you may need to rectify this or you may need to sand down the end panels and the small noggins protruding out. We have now test built three internal sections without any rectification work required, so hopefully this will be the case with yours.Once dropped gently in,make sure that its actually right in, then offer up the roof overlay to test fit. This should now sit neatly on top of the internal section and be a nice fit around the edges of the skeleton framework. Once happy all is correct, we need to glue the roof overlay to the internal section. Take the roof overlay back off, add some PVA brushed all over the top of the internal section BUT LEAVE A GAP OF APPROX 10MM ALL AROUND THE EDGES. You do not want glue seeping out and forming a bond to the side of the skeleton framework! Place the roof top overlay onto the glued section and press down and hold, or use some items to weigh it down whilst bonding. Allow to dry fully.Now lift the internal section out by its roof, holding it from both end and lifting upwards. If you find that the edges are loose because you didn’t glue around them, you could add some diluted PVA or similar glue around the edges and let it seep in and then weight down again to try, but we found this wasn’t necessary. You may need to sand around the inner edges to help with the internal removal.The roof overlay panel needs to be painted or have a roof bitumen cover to look realistic. Find a product that suits as there are a number of different ways roofs were covered. We used MIG Asphalt product code MIG-2107. This is a gritty black paste and when brushed on and then stippled over can look like a good quality roofing cover. Allow to dry before handling!Roof Top Tower Lift Off Section - Using a craft knife/scalpel/zippy blade, gently cut the small tags holding the items in and then lightly sand any parts that may be left over.Dry-fit the parts first to familiarise yourself in which way around the parts go. Glue inside the holes of each part and around the side edges of the main inside rectangle piece and fit together. Allow to dry.Once dry,add some glue to the tops of the rectangle piece and then add the top overlay. You can move this around while the glue is setting to get it flush with the inner edges of the rectangle piece. Allow to dry.The brick part goes on the side that has the smaller over-hang from the top overlay part. It is highly recommended that the brick part is fully painted and mortar added prior to fitting (we give our painting guide further down the instructions with the building’s exterior brickwork).Door Pack - White primer this while it is still in its template. Once dry, you can paint the doors in the colours of your choice. A good couple of coats of paint should suffice. Put to one side and come back to these towards the end of the build to fit.Exterior Brick Panels - Before glueing these on to the skeleton framework and also the small tower lift off brick section, these panels need to be painted and mortar added.There are a lot of ways that the effect can be done and is normally down to personal taste. The brick panels can be either painted via airbrush or by hand using a brush, again, personal choice.Our preferred method has now subsequently changed and this is what we did to get the finish on our demo Office Block.We used ‘Burnt Umber’ acryclic paint in a tube which is of thicker consistency. Using a small brush, brush this onto all the bricks making sure that the mortar joins are covered too. Try not to paint where there are no bricks as you will be adding the concrete overlay onto this area. The cleaner this is, the less likely you will have any issue when glueing this to the panels.To add some colour differences throughout the brick panels, you can add this to bricks on a random basis. Allow all these panels to fully dry for at least 24hrs.To add the mortar to the bricks, we used a ‘ready-made’ polyfilla in a tub. You won’t use a huge amount so a small tub should suffice. Make sure the mix has been stirred to get rid of of any lumps. Once this has been done, take an amount out of the tub into a separate tub. From here, we added a few drops of ‘buff’ coloured acrylic paint to give the mortar a different colour that we hoped would match the real building. Again, this will be a personal preference and other colours would work accordingly.Using a stiff style brush, dip into the filler and then add to the panel, doing one section at a time. Fill over the whole of the area with filler making, then with a dry paper-towel sheet(we used a very good quality kitchen towel) wipe the filler off in a downward motion. This will remove a fair amount of the filler, leaving the mortar joins full. Now, with a fresh paper towel, rub away any filler on the panel, again, in a downward motion. You may need to repeat this a few times as the result we are looking for is filler only in the mortar joins. Remember to use a fresh clean part of the paper towel everytime you rub down the panel. If you find that you have removed filler from the joins, simply add a small amount and redo. Hopefully you will get different effects for each panel and will make it look more realistic. ALLOW AT LEAST 24HRS BEFORE FITTING THESE PANELS TO THE SKELETON FRAMEWORK.Now, fit these panels to the skeleton framework. Add some PVA to the back of the brick panel and then offer this up to the skeleton framework, doing the front first, the back second and then each ends. Line the front and rear up with the windows/doors to make sure they fit exactly flush to the equivalent on the skeleton frame. You should be able to move these before the glue sets to make any adjustments. Any weathering can be done once the whole kit is complete.Concrete Frame Overlay - This is made from 350gsm quality card and will require painting prior to fitting.We used Woodlands Scenics ‘Concrete’ ST1454 and brushed onto to the card overlay,making sure all edges were painted as this will form an ‘overlay’ to the brickwork. Once painted, the card may start to slightly curl, which is normal. Once dried, turn over, cover the overlay and add some weights to hold it down. This will help straighten the card and make it easier to glue and fit over the brickwork panels.Here, it’s worth doing a dry-check to see if any slight trimming is going to be required at the ends of the card overlays. This will all depend on the thickness of the glue used on the framework and brick panels. Simply place the card overlay up against the brick panels and check. You may need to tip the building on its side to do this.When glueing, turn the card overlay back over, apply some PVA and then place into position, starting at one end and working down the panel. The card overlay will ‘hang’ over the edges of the front and rear brickwork sections to allow butting up to the side panel card overlays, so use the areas between the brickwork to guide the card overlay on. DO NOT RUSH DOING THIS.Before glueing the side card overlays on, check to see if any trimming is required to these side overlays then glue as per above and fit. You may have the slightest of gaps at each end and these can be covered with a dab of the concrete paint to cover should the need arise.Allow to dry fully before proceeding.Fitting Windows - The window pack needs white priming and prime these while they are still in the template. A few coats to cover them will suffice. Allow to dry.Each window consists of two of the same item, which will allow the acetate panel to be bonded between them.So, using a craft knife/scapel/zippy blade, cut all the windows out of the template, lightly sanding any parts that need to be sanded. Get the window glass pack and cut these out. You should find that they should come out without using a blade but go careful if you have to use a blade to prise them out!Put each window into its 2-piece item, along with the glass. Now, add a small amount of glue on both window inners (the sides that haven’t been primed), offer up the glass to one side and adjust with your fingers to get the glass to sit flush with the window. Now add the other window piece and here you can move them around until you get them aligned correctly. Use a flat surface to confirm alignment. Put each one aside as you do them to dry. Complete this action for all windows.Allow to dry fully - we advise 24hrs.You may want to dry-test fit a window to check that they fit…sanding around the edges lightly should you need to. Re-check.You can now glue these into the window recesses on the building. Take the internal section out so you have the hollow framework to be able to work from behind as well. You will only need the slightest amount of glue put in the inner edges of the window surrounds. In fact, our demo windows do not have any glue on them. They have simply been pushed in, adjusted and they won’t be going anywhere.Fitting Doors - You should have already primed and painted the doors. All you need to do is cut all the pieces out and as per the windows, the doors will have either 2 or 3 pieces to each one along with the acetate piece. Some of the external doors have 3 pieces, one of these is an inner part, where the acetate panel will glue into and then each side of the door will be glued to this. It gives the effect of a ridged recess door. Complete all and allow to dry fully - we advise 24hrs.Once dried, you can now fit all the doors to the framework, making sure the internal section is out and and manipulate them into place, adding a small amount of glue around the inner door recess if required.Congratulations - We have now completed the build. Any weathering can be done at this point.Thank you again for purchasing the TMD Office Block from Railway Laser Lines and we look forward to seeing your finished work on your layout.Please send any photos to:- HYPERLINK "mailto:steve@railwaylaserlines.co.uk" steve@railwaylaserlines.co.uk and we will post them on our Facebook page:- HYPERLINK "; have a product support page on our web site for any help/support that you require.Visit us at:- HYPERLINK "; 2019: Railway Laser LinesInstructions updated: 06/08/2019 ................
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