Oils and Butters
DIY Supply List Rebecca E. Robinson July 2016 This list will help you determine which items to purchase first when you start DIY projects. I have a list of basics, which I recommend starting with. Depending upon what you want to make, I have suggestions for some other useful ingredients and tools. Basic List of Supplies Oils and Butters Almond oil (Sweet almond oil) Moisturizing and soothing oil that is high in Vitamin E; protects skin from sun damage, smooths skin, reduces scaring, and reduces wrinkles and fine lines (absorbs slowly) Helps with psoriasis and eczema; reduces inflammation, dryness, irritation, and itchiness; good for crow’s feet under eyes High in oleic acid (66% oleic/24% linoleic); low melting point (0°F); SPF ~ 5 Contains: Vitamin A, E, B, D, magnesium, calcium, manganese, potassium, iron, zinc, selenium, and protein Shelf life/storage: ~ 10 months in cool place, out of sunlight (Vit E helps prolong life) Apricot seed oil Easily absorbed, light-weight, gentle moisturizing oil good for sensitive or aging skin Helps firm and tone skin, reducing sign of aging; good for skin conditions like eczema due to its anti-inflammatory properties Light and balanced, making it good for face oils, lips balms, and as a carrier oil High in oleic acid (60-75% oleic/20-30% linoleic) Contains: fatty acids, Vitamin A and E Shelf life/storage: ~ 1 year in cool place, 2 years if refrigerated Avocado oil Heavy oil that helps soften skin, builds collagen, improves skin elasticity, helps cell regeneration, and protects skin from sun damage Good for hair – it’s a humectant, meaning it locks in moisture High in oleic acid (63% oleic/28% linoleic); liquid at room temp; SPF ~ 4-15 Contains: Vitamin A, B, C, D, E and K, potassium, and fatty acids Shelf life/storage: 6-8 months in cool, dark place; ~ 1 year in fridge Cocoa butter Rich and creamy moisturizing butter that’s solid at room temperature; has lots of antioxidants (good for UV protection and heals sun damage to skin) Good for dry, sensitive skin (helps eczema and dermatitis); reduces stretch marks – keeps skin supple and soft (helps with collagen production/retention) Useful for hair/scalp – strengthens fine hair and controls frizz; adds moisture without weight Works well in body moisturizers, hair treatments, lip balms, and shaving creams; not good for face – heavy and can clog pores easily High oleic acid (34% oleic/3% linoleic); high melting point (93°F); SPF ~ 4 Contains: Vitamin E and K, saturated and unsaturated fats Shelf life/storage: upwards of 5 years in cool, dark place, or in fridge (buy unrefined, raw, organic) Coconut oil (unrefined) Extremely versatile oil that’s solid (but soft) at room temp; it’s long shelf life and natural antimicrobial properties make it useful in many products; it’s also anti-inflammatory Soothes and softens skin, repairing cracks, wrinkles, and scars; helps with eczema, psoriasis, and acne and helps strengthen and soften hair Anti-inflammatory helps with skin conditions, and antimicrobial helps with acne It’s also useful in salves and balms for burns, cuts, and fungal infections like athlete’s foot Works well in shaving creams, body moisturizers, homemade deodorant, healing salves, hair treatments, body scrubs, and more Balanced in oleic/linoleic acids (5-10% oleic/2% linoleic); high melting point (75°F); SPF ~ 2-8 Contains capric acid, lauric acid, and caprylic acid (all helpful in fungal infections) Shelf life/storage: stable for years in cool, dry place (recommend unrefined for personal care use) Grapeseed oil Quick absorbing lightweight oil that moisturizes and tightens skin (lots of antioxidants) Reduces acne (linoleic acid is high), scaring, wrinkles, fine lines High in linoleic acid (16% oleic/70% linoleic); low melting temp (14°F); SPF ~ 4 Contains: beta-carotene, Vitamins D, C, and E, and fatty acids Shelf life/storage: ~ 3 months in cool, dark place or ~ 6 months in fridge Olive oil This common cooking oil also makes a great everyday oil to use on your skin; it’s high in antioxidants and anti-inflammatory, making it excellent for improving skin and hair health Softens and smooths skin, reducing lines and wrinkles; soothes irritated skin and reduces inflammation making it great for eczema, psoriasis, contact dermatitis, and dandruff Promotes radiant/smooth complexion (good for oil cleansing) and is a great makeup remover High oleic acid (55-83% oleic/3-21% linoleic); low melting point (21°F); SPF ~ 2-8 Contains: Vitamin E and K, and fatty acids Shelf life/storage: ~ 2-3 years in cool, dark place (can store in fridge too) Shea butter (or Karite butter) Heavy, thick moisturizing butter that’s exceptional for healing skin – high healing “fraction” (the fraction of the butter/oil that contains beneficial vitamins and minerals) Softens skin and helps build elasticity; good for stretch marks, scars, burns, and wrinkles West Africa and East Africa produce different shea butters: West: firmer and waxier; nutty, richer odor; traditional origin (extracted from native Savannah tree species Vitellaria paradoxa) East: softer, creamier butter; lower melt temp, higher in oleic acid, vitamin E & A; higher price/harder to find (extracted from sub-species tree Vitellaria nilotica) I use West African shea butter – works great in lotion bars, sugar scrubs, salves, lip balms, and even as a simple styling cream for your hair High oleic acid (40-60% oleic/3-11% linoleic); high melting point (100°F); SPF ~ 6 Shelf life/storage: about 2 years stored in cool, dark location Dry Ingredients Bentonite clay Derived from volcanic ash, this grey/cream powder clay is excellent for healing and drawing out toxins from the skin How it works: when exposed to water, the polarity of the clay changes, attracted toxins with the opposite charge It’s good for healing wounds, reducing acne, and soothing skin conditions like eczema and psoriasis Used best for healing poultice, facemasks, and as a paste to put on insect bites or a flare up of a skin condition like eczema (like a mudpack) Contains a variety of minerals and nutrients including silicon, aluminum silica, sodium chloride, potassium, protein, calcium, sulfur, iron, and magnesium Shelf life/storage: keeps almost indefinitely, store in cool, dry tightly sealed container Notes: Do not use metal with bentonite clay – it reduces the potency; if using internally, purchase food grade clay Kaolin clay This off-white cosmetic clay is lightweight and is excellent at absorbing oils and sebum It’s commonly used in facial cosmetics, masks, deodorants, soaps, and body/face scrubs It’s good for sensitive skin, helps with circulation in exfoliating products, and works well in eye makeups (it is a good filler for eyeshadow and body powders) Shelf life/storage: same as Bentonite clay Arrowroot powder Lightweight powdered root starch similar to cornstarch – used as a thickener and replacement for body powders Softens and smooths skin; this is an excellent replacement for talcum powder (works well for things like diaper rash, athletes foot, or chaffing from exercise and sweat) This also makes a great filler for things like powdered deodorants and body powders Shelf life/storage: ~ 2-3 years in cool, dry place; some recommend refrigerating to keep fresh Sugar Sugar is beneficial for hydrating, encouraging cell regeneration, and exfoliating the skin Contains glycolic acid (an alpha hydroxy acid) that encourages cell regeneration, which makes skin look younger and fresher The granules make it good for sluffing off dead skin cells; this is useful in reducing psoriasis Choose the type of sugar that works best for you – brown sugar is softer, raw turbinado sugar is coarser, and the fine grain white sugar is hard, but less abrasive on the skin Shelf life/storage: basically forever in cool, dry place (brown sugar is best within 2 years though) Other Items & Tools Tea tree oil (Essential oil)Essential oil that I would recommend getting to start off; it’s useful for acne, fungal infections, scraps/cuts, dandruff, eczema, and psoriasis It is antifungal, antimicrobial, and anti-inflammatory Works well in medicinal topical products (poultices/salves), facemasks, after-shave oil, and face oils Shelf life/storage: ~ 6-12 months in cool, dry place; 2 years if unopened Beeswax Along with its own skin benefits, beeswax is used to harden oil mixtures for lotion bars, deodorants, lip balms, and salves; hardness depends on how much is used Protects skin, but doesn’t suffocate it; anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, and a humectant Softens skin, helps wounds heal, and soothes skin conditions like eczema and psoriasis Note: I prefer unrefined beeswax because it smells like honey – it does take more work, because it does have sentiment that needs to be filtered. After purchase, melt all of it in a metal pot, and then place the pot in the freezer. Remove it and scrape off the sentiment that has sunk to the bottom, remelt and repeat if necessary Accurate measuring scoops I recommend some sturdy metal and plastic measuring scoops that are labeled well and give you a range of sizes to use; you can always do without, but it might be a good investment Glass pyrex 2-cup measuring cup for heating oil/butter Excellent to use for mixing oils and butters on the stove. Fill a pot with water, then submerge the measure cup into the water, leaving the handle on the outside of the pot. A water bath like this is the best way to heat up oils, waxes, and butters slowly and without risk of burning Clean mason jars If you plan to make and store your products for later use or to give away, I recommend making sure you have some clean jars on hand to use Eye droppers These are useful for essential oils that do not have droppers on the top of the bottles Expanded List ***Information details for each item still in progress; document will be updated when ready*** Oils and Butters Jojoba oil Mango butter Sesame seed oil Hemp seed oil Aloe Neem oil Argan oil Tamanu oil Rosehip seed oil Essential Oils Rosemary Lemongrass Eucalyptus Clove Ylang-Ylang Lavender Citrus: Tangerine, sweet orange, lemon, or lime Other Items Rosewater French green clay Sea salt (Bokek, Grey, Himalayan pink) Kelp powder Honey Making Herbal Salves I would recommend starting with the following items for making your own oil infusions to create herbal salves. These are used on scraps, burns, eczema, et cetera. Cheesecloth Dried chamomile flowers Dried Calendula flowers (pot marigold) Dried arnica flowers Dried comfrey ................
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