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Table of Contents

About The Author 7

Introduction 9

Part 1

Lesson 1 What A Guide Dog Can Do For You 12

Lesson 2 The Decision To Apply For Guide Dog Training 13

Lesson 3 Your Own Personal Adjustment 17

Part 2

Lesson 1 Choosing A Guide Dog Facility 20

Lesson 2 Application Process 21

Lesson 3 Breeds Used For Guide Dog Work 22

Part 3

Lesson 1 Acceptance For Training – What To Expect 24

Lesson 2 Orientation At Training 26

Lesson 3 The Guide Dog’s Experience 29

Part 4

Lesson 1 Is It Christmas? 32

Lesson 2 Working With Your New Partner 34

Lesson 3 Emotions And Insecurities 35

Part 5

Lesson 1 Preparing For A New Life Together 39

Lesson 2 Flying With Your Guide Dog 40

Lesson 3 Planning For Your Arrival Home 42

Part 6

Lesson 1 What To Do When You Get Home 44

Lesson 2 Setting Boundaries For Your Dog 46

Lesson 3 Introducing Your Dog To Family and Friends 48

Lesson 4 Introducing Your Dog To Other Pets In Your Home 50

Lesson 5 Introducing Your New Guide Dog To Your Retired 53

Guide Dog

Lesson 6 Introducing Your Guide Dog To Your Cat 54

Part 7

Lesson 1 Adjusting Your Dog’s Park Schedule 56

Lesson 2 Oops! Accidents Happen 59

Part 8

Lesson 1 Working Your Guide Dog In Your Home Area 61 Lesson 2 Patterning 62

Part 9

Lesson 1 Acclimating Your New Dog To The Work Place 65

Lesson 2 Dealing With People In The Work Place 67

Lesson 3 Continuing The Education Process 68

Part 10

Lesson 1 Managing Your Dog And The General Public 70

Lesson 2 Learn From My Experiences 72

Lesson 3 Asking For Help 73

Lesson 4 Dealing With Others’ Questions 75

Part 11

Lesson 1 Following Training Advice 77

Lesson 2 Keeping Your Dog Safe 79

Part 12

Lesson 1 Dealing With Difficult People 82

Lesson 2 Correcting Your Dog In Public 83

Lesson 3 Consistency 84

Part 13

Lesson 1 Self-Advocacy For You And Your Dog 86

Lesson 2 Respecting The Rights Of Others 88

Lesson 3 Taking Responsibility For Your Dog In A Private Home 91

Part 14

Lesson 1 Your Dog’s Appearance 93

Lesson 2 Brushing Your Dog’s Teeth 94

Lesson 3 Your Dog’s Nails 95

Lesson 4 Bathing Your Dog 96

Lesson 5 Feeding And Maintaining Your Dog’s Weight 97

Lesson 6 Dog Treats 99

Part 15

Lesson 1 Controlling Your Emotions 101

Part 16

Lesson 1 Choosing A Veterinarian 104

Part 17

Lesson 1 Spending Time Away From Your Dog 107

Lesson 2 Traveling With Your Guide Dog 109

Part 18

Lesson 1 Retiring Your Dog 112

Summary 121

About The Author

Shelley McMullen is a native of Houston Texas. She is congenitally totally blind due to retinopathy of prematurity. She attended public school in Houston and acknowledges that she will be forever grateful for the variety of experiences that accompanied her public school education. She obtained a Bachelor of Music Education degree from Arkansas State University in 1976. She has a Masters degree in counseling from the University of Arkansas as well.

Ms. McMullen lived in Little Rock Arkansas for 20 years, and was a responsible employee in the corporate world. Her employment history includes work as fulltime receptionist in the Attorney General’s Office and Governor’s Office respectively. She worked as an independent living specialist for Mainstream Living, an independent living center for the disabled, and as a job placement counselor for the Arkansas Lighthouse for the Blind. She was an employee of Lion’s World Services for the Blind for 8 years as a rehabilitation counselor and volunteer coordinator

In 1996 Shelley returned home, to Texas, in order to be closer to her family. She lived in Austin, for 5 years and briefly worked at the Criss Cole Rehabilitation Center as a personal and social awareness instructor, and in a summer position as a volunteer coordinator for Goodwill. She met her husband Joe in June of 2000 at the American Council of the Blind of Texas state convention. She married Joe in May of 2001 and moved to San Antonio. Ms. McMullen currently resides in San Antonio with Joe, and her current guide dog, yellow Labrador retriever, Bailey.

Ms. McMullen has an overwhelming desire to be independent. She has been a guide dog user since May of 1975. She values all of the dogs she has had, and appreciates all of the training she has received over the years.

Shelley has had success throughout her life. Her blindness has in many ways served as an asset, rather than a liability.

She has been recognized for the following accomplishments and responsibilities:

Arkansas Council of the Blind Employee of the Year 1977

Pilot Club Handicapped Woman of the Year 1985

Emmaus lay director Laurel Heights United Methodist Church

Chancel Choir Member and Soloist Laurel Heights United Methodist Church

Sunday School Class Member Laurel Heights United Methodist Church

Stephen Minister and Stephen Leader Laurel Heights United Methodist Church

Alamo Council of the Blind Advocacy Chair and second Vice President

Ms. McMullen is a certified Christian Life Coach. She obtained her certification from the Professional Christian Coaching and Counseling Academy (PCCCA) in March of 2008. Ms. McMullen has a burning desire to assist adults who are blind or visually impaired with God’s help, to reach their highest potential. So if you are struggling with issues related to independence as a blind person, deciding whether or not to obtain a guide dog, or the grief you are suffering as a result of vision loss, loss of a job or any other circumstance that relates to a major transition in your life please feel free to contact her. Family members of those who are visually impaired and want to acquire a better understanding are also encouraged to seek Ms. McMullen’s assistance. A free initial consultation will be provided. Ms. McMullen’s approach is Christ centered, but she is ready and willing to help you from your own prospective and will respect your values.

For more information about coaching or speaking engagements, please contact:

Walking Blind By Grace

(210) 824-2617

Email: lifecoachshelley@

Introduction

The purpose of this book is to provide a basic, practical, easy-to-understand guide to those blind or visually impaired adults who might be interested in learning about or obtaining a guide dog. It is my hope that obtaining a dog would enhance their ability to travel safely and independently. Suggestions made and experiences shared within this book hopefully will be beneficial to guide dog users who may be struggling with specific questions, concerns or issues with regard to their current guide dog. The information outlined within this guide may be of interest to friends, acquaintances or family members of a blind person with the idea of showing empathy, help and support to the guide dog user with whom they are acquainted. The materials might appeal to Lions’ Clubs, as well as to other civic groups and organizations that may consider supporting or donating to one of the guide dog schools as a project. This information may serve as a resource for orientation and mobility instructors and other professionals who are employed in the blindness field. It might be that there will be those who are just simply curious. Whatever one’s reason may be for seeking out this valuable information, this book will serve as an excellent resource for increasing public awareness about guide dogs, their ability, training, and function within society. This book is written in order to give a very personal prospective rather than a training outlook, and should provide a dose of reality to its readers. However, it must be noted that I, the author, am not submitting this helpful guide as an endorsement of or preference to one guide dog school over any other. Beyond this I am writing in order to identify, clarify and explain some of the myths associated with guide dogs, their training, their responsibility, and level of capability.

Furthermore, it is my intent to discuss pros and cons with regard to owning and caring for a guide dog. Topics of focus within the text include Issues beginning with the decision to obtain a guide dog, choosing a guide dog facility for the student’s training, various aspects of the team partnership, and finally the dreaded decision to retire a faithful, loving partner, guide and companion. This is not written to serve as a supplemental training guide. I have had over 30 years of experience as a guide dog handler, but feel the necessity to leave the expertise of the training process to the respective schools. Although training basics are similar, each school practices a variety of individual techniques. This type of discussion could be confusing and misleading to potential guide dog users. I do not claim to be a guide dog trainer or expert, but am just filled with a strong desire to help others who may want to learn about or to have an enriching experience as a guide dog user.

Before we begin our in depth discussions it is necessary to clarify terminology.

The term guide dog refers to a dog that has been trained to guide the blind. Other names such as Seeing Eye and Leader Dog for example refer to specific facilities that train the dogs. The term guide dog is generic in nature. In other words this term reflects what the dog actually is trained to do. A guide dog who has been properly trained must be wearing a specially designed harness not only in order to guide a blind person, but as a means of identification.

Part 1

Part 1, Lesson 1

What A Guide Dog Can Do For You

First and foremost a well trained guide dog can guide a blind person in just about any given situation. The purpose is for the guide dog team to be able to travel from point A to point B in a safe manner. The dogs have been trained to take the path of least resistance and are trained to work in rural areas as well as in the busiest of cities. They safely guide their blind partners around obstacles and other pedestrians. Furthermore, these wonderful animals have been trained to lie quietly in cars and are allowed to accompany the blind person on all forms of public transportation. Those with visual impairments and their guide dogs are allowed in all public buildings and facilities accessed by the general public. Guide dog teams are protected in the United States by both state and Federal law. The laws require that the dog must be wearing a harness as a means of identification when in public places such as restaurants, malls, and Professional buildings.

Guide dogs supply companionship. The blind person and guide dog are basically together 24 hours a day. So a guide dog can be your best friend. Their unconditional devotion can most closely be compared to God’s undying devotion to us. These dogs are God’s little angels. They not only provide safety and mobility, but truly their love and commitment to us as handlers simply cannot be measured.

Part 1, Lesson 2

The Decision to Apply For Guide dog Training

First, before applying to a guide dog school, you must decide if a guide dog is right for you. You must take the time to examine your personal circumstances very carefully. If you are blind or visually impaired you must ask yourself if you truly like dogs? Are you comfortable being around them? How would you feel about having a guide dog in your home with you and your family? If you answer these questions with a resounding yes then you may be a good candidate for training.

Timing with regard to proceeding with the application process is critical. What this means is that if you are sincerely interested in having a guide dog as your mobility tool and partner you must be well acquainted with your home area. This statement dispels the myth that guide dogs automatically know where their blind masters want to go. Nothing could be further from the truth. Guide dogs can be patterned to frequently traveled routes, but it is the person’s initial responsibility to teach the dog where to go using the commands of “forward” “right” and “left.” If you are unfamiliar with your home area, but are interested in becoming more mobile and independent then it would be recommended that you seek the assistance of a certified orientation and mobility instructor. It is a good idea to perfect your cane skills before considering applying for a guide dog. If you are a client of a state agency for the blind you might want to request the assistance through this type of agency. There are also a number of large rehabilitation facilities for the blind throughout the United States and in other countries where you could receive this training.

If you relocate to a new area or for that matter move to a different neighborhood it would be a good idea to consider being in your new location for a minimum of 6 months before applying for a guide dog. This will not only make the transition to your environment easier and less stressful for the dog, but it will enhance your level of success as a team more quickly.

It is here that it is important to address the myth that dogs who guide the blind can tell when to cross the street by the color of the traffic light. This is completely false. Dogs are color blind. It is the responsibility of the handler to listen to the traffic pattern, and to determine when it is safe for the team to cross the street. There may be times when the dog will exercise what is known as intelligent disobedience. This for example would mean that the handler has commanded the dog to proceed across the street when it is unsafe. The ability to correctly read traffic is a must prior to the obtainment of a guide dog. Remember that working with a guide dog is team effort

Suggestion: If a sighted person standing at the street crossing tells you when to cross do not listen to them. It is certainly appropriate to thank them, but wait until you have an entire traffic cycle in your favor before you attempt to cross the street. I have observed that sighted people have a tendency to cross whether the traffic is in their favor or not.

Having a guide dog as an integral part of your life requires discipline and responsibility on your part. The relationship is one of mutual devotion, trust, and dependency. The dog will need to be relieved at least 4 times each day, and will need to be fed and groomed daily. An obedience routine is recommended as well. Specifics with regard to obedience exercises will not be addressed within this text. These obedience exercises and how to apply them will vary with each individual school. However, carrying out these exercises each day is extremely important to the guide dog team development and is essential in maintaining control of the dog, especially in public. All of the training facilities would agree on these points. If you do not wish to carry out these responsibilities as a part of your daily life, than a guide dog is not for you. The approximate cost for the training of a guide dog team at present is $50,000. This price tag includes all of the dog’s training, its shots and surgeries, supplies and so on as well as the student’s training which includes room and board and issued equipment (dog’s leash and harness. This decision needs to be taken very seriously. These dogs are not glorified pets and need to be treated with the love and respect they so deserve

Most likely this will be one of the biggest decisions you will ever make. It could turn out to be absolutely one of the best decisions you can make for yourself. It requires a huge emotional investment and commitment on your part. It is important that other family members, i. e. members of your immediate household fully agree with your having a guide dog and the fact that the dog must reside in the home with you as opposed to being expected to live in a yard, garage or basement. If your family does not agree with your decision it might perhaps be in your best interest to seek finding your own residence so that the dog can be with you as required. If you are in disagreement about this with your spouse or significant other you may have to dismiss the idea of getting a guide dog until your human partner can receive some education about this and the issue can be resolved. Remember that the dog will be devoted to you and its needs and feelings must be taken into consideration. The members of your household and any others with which you share your life must understand that the dog has been trained to guide you, and has the right to accompany you everywhere you go if that is and it should be your personal desire.

It is important to understand that your responsibility to a guide dog goes beyond daily grooming, feeding, relief time and obedience exercises. You as a guide dog owner will be responsible for your dog’s medical care and expenses. This care includes a physical examination every 6 months, as well as vaccinations, heart worm preventative, flea and tick prevention and other medical issues that may periodically arise. A medical problem that is undetected or not addressed by a veterinarian could interfere with the dog’s work, overall health and general well being. Negligence on your part could lead to serious illness or even death.

Part 1, Lesson 3

Your Own Personal Adjustment

It is important for you as a potential guide dog candidate to evaluate your feelings about your blindness or visual impairment. If you have been visually impaired your entire life you probably are reasonably well adjusted, and are able to cope with stress related to your impairment. It is my opinion that having a guide dog requires emotional maturity and a sense of balance and well being in one’s own life. Furthermore, I feel that it is wrong to apply for a guide dog, just because someone else tells you how much it will change your life for the better. This experience can truly have a positive impact on your life, but that will not be the case if you are not emotionally ready, or if you feel that you would be uncomfortable with having the responsibility that accompanies ownership of a guide dog.

If you have recently lost your vision, or you have an eye condition that is progressive in nature, you may be dealing with adjustment issues such as anger and depression that could affect your relationship with the dog that is chosen for you if you are accepted for training. The dog cannot correct what has already happened to you. It can help you change your level of independence and confidence, but cannot heal hurts from your past or change your attitude about them. All of these factors need to be carefully weighed before you begin the application process.

In short it is imperative for a potential guide dog user to thoroughly examine all of these concerns before beginning the application process. If one is not able to comply with these responsibilities it is my opinion that a guide dog is not appropriate and that the dog should be available instead for one who will respect, love, utilize and cherish it.

Part 2

Part 2, Lesson 1

Choosing A Guide Dog Facility

There are currently13 guide dog facilities in the United States as well as schools in other countries. As previously stated I do not intend to advocate for or show partiality to any particular school within this manual. You are probably wondering how you would go about selecting a guide dog school for training. In 2006 a majority of the guide dog schools within the United States participated in a survey which addresses their respective offerings. In order to access this survey visit . Every school has its own amenities which may or may not be appealing to each person’s individual needs and preferences. Areas you might want to research include but are not limited to climate, dog breeds used, admission services, graduate or follow-up services, and financial assistance.

If you have friends or acquaintances who have guide dogs you might want to get their opinion about their school. It might be a good idea to come up with questions to ask them about their dog and where it was trained.

You want to speak to people who are honest in their opinions about the schools, but try to select people to consult who focus on positive aspects of what their respective schools have to offer.

Part 2, Lesson 2

Application Process

Each school of course has its own application questions, but the process for each is essentially the same. Guide dogs schools always request a detailed medical report from a licensed physician They may ask for a psychological evaluation as well. They almost always require a minimum of 3 personal references or more for first-time students. It is always a good idea to provide a variety of references. Some Professional references and others who know you on a very personal level. It is helpful to request that an orientation and mobility instructor, or perhaps a rehabilitation counselor or teacher serve as a reference for you. Some schools conduct telephone interviews as a part of the admission process while others prefer face-to-face contact. The school to which you are applying may require a demonstration video of your travel skills, while others may visit your home in order to assess your individual needs. All of these methods are helpful to the schools with regard to matching you with the most appropriate dog in order to suit you and your life style.

Part 2, Lesson 3

Breeds Used for Guide dog Work

Most of the guide dog schools use German shepherds, Labrador retrievers,, golden retrievers, and lab golden crosses as their primary breeds of choice. Occasionally other breeds such as Boxers, smooth coat collies and standard poodles are found to have the temperament needed for guide work. Standard poodles and Boxers seem to be the recommended breeds for those who suffer with allergies.

I feel that at this point it is important to give some practical advice with regard to a breed choice. As a result of years of experience and many mistakes I have learned that the decision and matching process should be left entirely up to the school and its staff. You may favor one breed over another, but other factors come into play in the selection process. So try not to be insistent upon a particular breed. Just be open to what is best for you! Although there may be dogs available in your breed of choice, those dogs that have completed the training cycle prior to your entry into class may not possess the qualities you need for your type of environment, walking speed, level of physical strength and endurance, and so on. If you insist on a certain breed there is a strong possibility that you and your new partner will not be as successful as you would like due to incompatibility. In fact these kinds of difficulties could mean that it would be necessary for the choosing of a new guide dog for you. The simplest plan of action is just to allow the instructors at the school you choose to do their work in insuring that you are matched with the best dog for you. Most schools will certainly take your breed preferences into consideration, but there is no guarantee that your preference will be honored.

Part 3

Part 3, Lesson 1

Acceptance For Training - What To Expect

The application process can be quite lengthy. However, in general most guide dog schools evaluate, choose and accept prospective first-time students within 4 to 6 months. Graduate students who have had previous dogs in general may reapply and be accepted into class more quickly, usually in approximately 2-4 months.

The day an applicant receives a letter of acceptance from a guide dog school is very exciting! The prospective student knows that the dog will change their life in many ways. The student anxiously awaits the designated class date with enthusiasm, curiosity while experiencing feelings of apprehension. The feelings and emotions associated with acceptance for guide dog training can be compared to the first day of school, for example, the transition from elementary to middle school. Family members and friends will be equally as excited, but in a different way. Everyone will be asking, “What kind of dog will you be getting? How long will you be gone?” Others will say, “This will be like a vacation for you!” Most likely most people in your life at this point will not have a clear understanding of how exhausting and stressful guide dog training can and will be for both new and graduate students. Although daily scheduled activities and their times will vary from one school to another, time spent during training entails days of approximately 14 hours of work and training each with the exclusion of Sunday which is designated as a day of rest.

Days during training will usually include 2 trips working your dog, designated relief or park times, feeding and grooming your dog, as well as instructional lectures several times each week Most schools provide students copies of their lectures on cassettes, CDs or in other media.

Every school has an assigned length of stay for its students, but in general one would need to plan for approximately 3 and 1 half weeks. Most employers are more than willing to accommodate visually impaired workers who choose to be trained with a guide dog where time off is concerned.

Students can expect to arrive at the school on either Saturday or Sunday, depending upon the school’s training schedule. Those who live far away can arrive by airplane, bus or train. and students who reside in the vicinity of the school may arrive by car. Some guide dog facilities pay for transportation expenses to and from class while others do not.

Part 3, Lesson 2

Orientation to Training

The first day is spent giving new students an opportunity to unpack, to get settled in their rooms, and to begin to become familiar with the layout of the school. Most students are exhausted by the end of the arrival date, and welcome the opportunity to retire early. Students are encouraged to use their canes at first while orienting themselves to the facility. Instructors other staff, and sometimes volunteers are available to help new students through this orientation process. Students may take advantage of this free time to meet other class mates as well.

The first day of class is usually spent meeting school instructors, other staff, and learning about the rules and policies set forth by the school. This is an intake process and most likely there will be agreements for students to sign before class actually begins. There may be time for the first “Juno” walk. Juno refers to the fictitious name that is used for the instructor who plays the part of the dog. The student holds onto the harness handle, and gives the instructor commands as he learns them such as “forward “right” and “left.” The number of days doing Juno walks may vary from school to school but is used as a form of training in order to further determine each student’s individual needs and abilities in the dog matching process.

I feel it necessary and my obligation at this point to provide some very practical advice. When you are doing the Juno routine with your instructor or for that matter any time during class please, by all means, be yourself. Do not fake it! Do not tell your instructor that you have the physical ability to walk 4 miles if in reality, for example, you can only comfortably walk 2 blocks. You are not there to impress your instructor, other staff or your classmates. Your training at the school is not a competition. You are there to have your needs met, and to be successful with your new partner and guide. Your instructor needs to know about your life style in detail, and how much you will be working your dog after you return home. If you have health conditions please let your instructor know. All of these factors will play a part in the matching process. The more information you give the easier it will be for the instructors to provide a good match for you.

Furthermore, these walks are used to familiarize the new student with the commands that he will use when working the dog. Instructors listen for voice inflection. The instructor will use this time to clarify what the person’s life style is like, whether they have other pets in the home, small children, and so forth. This Initial phase of training is enjoyable and relaxing. There is plenty of time to continue to get acquainted with other students as well as time to practice acclimating oneself to the school. I feel that making friends with classmates is healthy, but should not over shadow the reason for being at the school in the first place. After the obtainment of the guide dog partner, the effort or lack thereof by each student will determine the level of success achieved by the guide dog team. Sometimes students become friends during class, say good-bye when class is over, and never correspond again. In other instances close relationships develop, and graduates help and support each other for the rest of their lives

During this initial phase of instruction students receive an explanation with reference to what the dogs have been through prior to coming into class. For the most part guide dog schools will share very similar information when it comes to this.

Each student is given equipment (harness and leash) to use during class. New harnesses are issued prior to the end of class. The new harness given at that time will be one that is designed for each dog’s individual size. Harnesses usually come in 3 sizes, small, medium, and large. Most schools prefer to use older previously used harnesses during training. However, the leash one receives is brand new. Students are instructed to work the leash with their hands not only to soften the stiff new leather, but to release their scent on the leash. This is helpful when they receive the new dog so that it will have had a chance to pick up on the person’s scent prior to the introduction to the student. Instructors strongly urge class members to get into a habit of having the harness and leash with them at all times, so that they will be used to this process by the time dogs are issued.

Students are encouraged to get a good night’s sleep, the night before receiving the dog, and are advised to wear comfortable clothing the following day. The first day with a new, furry friend will be exciting, stressful and tiring.

Part 3, Lesson 3

The Guide Dog’s Experience

Most schools have their own breeding programs, or may obtain their puppies from other reputable guide dog facilities. Some schools accept donated dogs from the general public as well. In general most guide dog schools have a puppy raiser program, and provide on-going training and support to their raisers. Puppies are issued to raisers at approximately 7-8 weeks of age. They are usually returned to the school between 1 and 2 years of age to be evaluated for training. The return of the dog to the school is of course a very emotional time for the raisers and their families who have devoted time socializing, house breaking, and loving the pup. This process for the dog is confusing and traumatic. The dog loves its family, and does not understand the sudden separation from them. When the dog realizes that the family has left without him, he experiences feelings of rejection and fear. The dog will usually be depressed for several days, but quickly adjusts to life in the kennel and begins to bond with other dogs. Play time is awesome, but other things begin to happen that are disturbing and unpleasant. Frequent physical visits to the school’s vet clinic become necessary and this is not fun! After a little while the dog will meet a new person who will be its trainer. At first this isn’t too much fun either, but eventually the dog looks forward to spending time with its new friend. Why? This is simple. After a little while the dog gets to go downtown on the training truck, into stores, restaurants, and on public transportation. From its prospective this is really cool! Other dogs cannot do all of these fun things! Most dogs are in a back yard somewhere all by themselves.

This new exciting way of life continues for 3-4 months or longer, and the dog is very happy! All of a sudden the beloved trainer and friend do not show up to the kennel for several days, and the dog starts to worry! In his mind he may wonder why his trainer has gone away or something else equally as serious. This illustration is simply an explanation of what the dog has gone through before being issued to the new blind student. This is thoroughly explained before dogs are issued during training. This explanation gives students a better appreciation for and understanding of the dog’s prospective, and will hopefully help them to understand some of the dog’s behaviors. Some students become emotional during this story, and tears often flow.

Part 4

Part 4, Lesson 1

Is It Christmas?

The day has arrived! The time has come for students and their dog partners to meet. Dogs are individually issued to students either in their dormitory rooms, or in a common area such as a student lounge. The dormitory setting is unfamiliar to the dog so it will be excited and curious. The instructor will most likely request that the student call the dog by name upon its arrival, and then the instructor will hand the leash to the student. At first the dog is more than willing to meet the new person, because his wonderful friend and trainer is there so he feels comfortable and safe. The instructor gives some additional information about the dog, such as its weight, color, breed and possibly a little something personal about one of its featured characteristics. The student is specifically given instruction not to allow the dog on the bed and furniture. Furthermore, the dog should not be permitted to jump on the student. It is usually made clear that the dog is not to receive any commands such as sit or down for the first few hours. This could interfere with the bonding process if the student becomes an authority figure from the dog’s point of view during this initial meeting. The dog is content until its trainer leaves dog and student alone! The dog views the separation from its trainer as another form of rejection. The dog does not understand why it has been left with this weird person who doesn’t know it, or for that matter how to treat it. So guess what? The dog reacts by pulling or chewing on the leash, jumping on the student, or on the bed, or whining. It will appear that the dog has had no training at all!

Instructors assist students in taking their dogs to relief areas, and to meals. I can attest to the fact that the first few meals with a new dog can be a frustrating experience with little time for eating one’s meal. The dogs are constantly getting up and need to be told to return to the down position. They are eagerly anticipating dropped crumbs of food or napkins.

Part 4, Lesson 2

Working With Your New Partner

The new guide dog team is accompanied by the instructor for the first few walks. The dog will be anxious to go to work with his trainer. Meanwhile the new student may be struggling to put the harness on correctly, and the dog’s excitement and possible constant wiggling may not be conducive to accomplishing this. The instructor will walk on the student’s left side with an additional leash attached to the dog’s collar. In other words you might think of this situation in contrast to the child who is initially learning to ride a new bicycle with training wheels under the watchful eye of a parent, sibling, or other adult. During the first few trips the student begins to get a feel for the dog’s pull and how it is reacting. The instructor is there to help, advise and to correct the dog if necessary. The instructor will very gradually back away from the team. Other instructors who are not personally acquainted with the dog may work with the new team in order to promote success and to facilitate the turn-over. This is a testing phase, and the dog will usually resist the turnover to its new handler. The dog is not able to understand why his old friend and partner is no longer walking with him, and why his buddy only reprimands him when he does something wrong. Besides this the dog will in various ways test the authority of his new handler. for example, sniffing, pulling, disobeying a command or request, and so on both in and out of harness. In approximately 7-10 days the dog still looks for instructors, but usually turns over to the new handler. From the dog’s prospective he has a good deal going! Now he cannot only see his trainer each day, but he gets to live in the dormitory with his new friend rather than being stuck in the kennel. He also gets to see his dog friends who were in the kennel with him, because they are in class too.

Part 4, Lesson 3

Emotions and Insecurities

The training process in its entirety can be overwhelming for both first-time and graduate students who have had dogs previously. Remember that dogs are just like people in that they have their own personalities, characteristics and ways of reacting. Although the dogs have been thoroughly trained, they experience off days as well. A student may become disoriented while on a specific route, may forget directions of the route, or may veer into traffic when crossing the street. This kind of thing is common and the reader of this manual should not become alarmed. There are always instructors available to assist guide dog teams when they experience problems, or get temporarily into trouble. The safety of the team is the most important aspect of training. Instructors work with teams to correct any problems that might arise.

There may be days when a student may feel that they don’t have the emotional strength to work the dog. They may be experiencing an overwhelming sense of fear and anxiety due to a previous bad day with the dog, or may be preoccupied in relation to a problem at home. I can tell you from experience that the times I chose to call upon God during training things absolutely went much more smoothly. I was fortunate enough to be in a class of students during training for a previous dog when several of us in the class prayed together before we worked our dogs and had daily devotionals each evening and on Sundays. God saw us through as he always does when we allow him to lift our burdens. All through training during that class I continued to remind myself of my favorite Bible verse: from Philippians 4-13 I can do all things through Christ who strengthens me. I believe that this dependence on God along with a strong belief in one’s self and a positive attitude can help a student to cope with difficult and stressful times during training.

I have had some wonderful, supportive trainers over the years, but I would like to acknowledge one in particular. Her name is Debbie. It is evident that she loves her job and is dedicated to helping students to feel comfortable. She does not judge students when they are having a bad day. She is always there to provide an encouraging word or a hug. The level of success one accomplishes during guide dog training is contingent upon the student’s efforts, but the presence of a compassionate, understanding and patient instructor can and does make a world of difference. Debbie is particularly sensitive to the needs and struggles of graduates who have had previous guide dogs, because their feelings and needs are different than those of first-time students.

The training is comprehensive and a wide variety of experiences are provided. As stated the dogs have been trained to navigate in large cities, small residential areas, and so forth. As training progresses routes become increasingly difficult. Dogs guide students safely around other pedestrians, obstacles of all kinds, and safely across busy intersections. Country work without sidewalks is also a part of the experience. Most schools make an attempt to individualize training so that each student will be given a chance to focus on the kinds of routes that they will deal with at home.

It is important to point out here that no guide dog team has reached a level of perfection when training is completed, accomplishing the basics is key, but instructors will not graduate a team that has not fully demonstrated the ability to work together and to travel safely. Students as previously noted are comfortable in their own environments and should be able to problem solve most situations that may occur. However, if either instructor or student has concerns or reservations about progress as a team such issues are addressed. If the match does not seem to be working out, for whatever reason, most schools have a second dog available as a possible match. In this instance a new dog would be issued in ample time for the team to successfully complete training by the specified end of class.

Part 5

Part 5, Lesson 1

Preparing For A New Life Together

Training is over at last! It is for most students a mixed blessing! Each team has been successful, and must now say good-bye to classmates, instructors, and other school staff. It is a time of both excitement and apprehension. Dogs see suitcases being packed, and in their own way wonder what lies ahead for them! Will they say good-bye and be rejected again? Little do they know that they will be entering a new phase of life with their new beloved friend and partner for hopefully many years to come.

As a part of the termination of training many schools offer an exit interview which is conducted in a confidential setting. This interview gives each student if they so desire an opportunity to reflect on their training, how they benefitted from it, and offers them a time to give suggestions and feedback for improvement. These interviews are conducted by staff other than the class instructors.

Students can expect to receive a packet of information which may contain a contract as well as other valuable, important materials. Schools in the United States usually provide students with a handbook that contains information about laws that protect guide dog teams in each state. The documentation that is distributed at this time will vary from one school to another.

Part 5, Lesson 2

Flying With Your Guide Dog

Guide dog facilities provide transportation to graduating students to air ports, bus terminals, and train stations upon completion of training. Some schools expose guide dogs to security points at air ports as a part of training. However, the dogs have never actually experienced being on an airplane. Most schools assist graduates in airports, and work with airline reservation agents on seating assignments for the guide dog team. This includes a request for sighted assistance on and off the plane, along with comfortable seating arrangements which will allow enough room for the dog to be comfortable. It is my opinion that the dog should be harnessed while on the plane and should lie quietly at the graduate’s feet. The flight can sometimes prove to be very stressful for the dog. If you have ever flown you probably know that frequent swallowing or chewing gum can keep your ear popping to a minimum as the plane ascends and descends. Since your dog will not know how to cope with his popping ears. I would like to offer some suggestions that will help your guide dog to feel relaxed during the flight.

First just simply petting the dog and reassuring him with kind words can be calming. Besides this you might want to incorporate some massage techniques. I am personally aware of the fact that many guide dog facilities are now teaching students massage techniques that are specifically used for dogs. It would be advisable to follow instructions received from the school where you and your dog were trained. The bottom line is that if you are calm your dog will be as well.

As stated earlier in this manual, most schools make sure that guide dog teams receive appropriate assistance both on and off the plane. I can tell you from years of experience that airline personnel are well meaning, but may not know how to best assist you. It is important to be courteous, and diplomatic but firm. Remember that you and your dog will be nervous upon your arrival to your destination, your home, and it is not fair to ask your dog to work in a strange airport under these conditions. It is best to ask the airline employee who assists you from the plane to please allow you to walk sighted guide, meaning that you will take their right arm or elbow. This will give you the freedom to heel your dog on your left side. You may encounter a helper who insists that you ride through the airport in a wheelchair. This would be confusing and unsafe for the dog, and certainly is not necessary or advisable. However, you would want to be firm but polite about this. There are visually impaired people who would strongly disagree with this opinion. In this instance it is the dog’s safety that must always be a top priority. The dog does not understand and has not been trained to heel beside a wheelchair. It is understandable that airline employees are busy, but again the dog’s needs must override convenience. If you disagree with this opinion you might want to consult your instructor prior to the end of class. Just explain that you are blind, but that you are perfectly capable of walking. If you are not comfortable getting on an escalator with your dog, by all means please do not attempt it in the airport. Just inform your sighted guide that you will need to take an elevator or the stairs instead.

Part 5, Lesson 3

Planning For Your Arrival Home

Meeting family or friends at the airport upon your return home with your new guide dog partner can be exciting for you. However, the experience can be overwhelming for the dog, especially if those who meet you want to take pictures or otherwise delay your time at the airport. This may cause additional stress for the dog. It may be that you are a member of a Lion’s Club or other civic group that may have a vested interest in you and your dog because they may have provided a financial contribution to your transportation to the school, or training. If at all possible this type of interaction on your first day at home with your new guide dog should be avoided at all cost. It would be up to you to explain in a diplomatic manner that this is not good for the dog, and that meeting the dog in this way would be better at a later date.

Part 6

Part 6, Lesson 1

What To Do When You Get Home

I have learned over the years through experience that the best thing you can do for your dog is to give it ample time for relief before you enter your home with it for the first time. If your home is not in the vicinity of the airport, or bus terminal you might want to consider giving the dog some relief time at an appropriate place on your way home.

Once you arrive at your home an additional park time would be a good idea. It is suggested that at least initially that the dog should be taken to the same location for its relief time. This applies whether you have a fenced in yard, or you live in an apartment complex.

Once you enter your home, it is a good idea to have your dog on leash with you. The dog will begin to relax if you take the time to show him around your home. It helps to Verbalize what the rooms are as you go. It may sound silly, but your calmness and physical presence as you do this will ease any stress that the dog may be feeling.

Guide dog facilities usually advise graduates to keep their dogs on a leash or a tie down chain for several weeks after going home. This for the dog simulates a training environment. If you follow this advice you will always know where your dog is and what it is doing. It will eliminate for the dog the temptation to get into things such as trash, and will not give him an opportunity to steal food that may be left within his reach. Thus you are able to maintain better control. You might wonder what place would be the most appropriate for a tie down chain for your dog. The dog will feel secure being as close to you as possible. So having a tie down chain in your bedroom will help the dog to feel better about his new environment, especially at night. If you have a two-story home having a tie down in a designated place on both levels would be helpful. This does not mean that the dog should always be tied down for the first few weeks. Your dog will still enjoy being with you, just as he did during training. Your dog will love being with you on leash. The tie down is a means of maintaining control when you are busy with tasks such as cooking, laundry, or showering when it may not be possible to have the dog at your side.

Part 6, Lesson 2

Setting Boundaries For Your Dog

As stated the leash and tie down are excellent tools to help you maintain control of your dog in its new environment, your home. I am quite sure that you were instructed in training not to allow your dog to bark or growl at any time. If your dog or other dogs did so during training you and other class members were most likely told to correct them verbally using the word no immediately. Trainers did not tolerate barking while they were training your dog. Sighted people and even some blind people who have not had dogs view this as being unfair to the dog. It is natural for a dog to bark. This is its way of communicating and expressing itself. However, my experiences have shown me that if you allow your dog to bark at home, he will eventually at some point barking public. It is embarrassing to have your dog barking in a restaurant or some other public place. The dog cannot differentiate between home and public places, I can bark at home, but not in a restaurant or on the street. They simply can’t reason this out. Dogs who are allowed to bark when someone rings the doorbell, or when they see something they don’t like have a tendency to become aggressive and overly protective. Guide dogs have to be friendly. They have no way of determining whether a person is a friend or someone you don’t want to deal with. I have often heard trainers say that a bark leads to a growl and a growl leads to a bite.

If you do not correct your dog for barking the situation can quickly get out of hand, and unfortunately your dog will be out of control.

It is important that readers of this manual understand that guide dogs are only for guiding. They are not for protection.

I would certainly agree that having a guide dog, especially for women eases feelings of vulnerability when in public. Most people who might intend to cause harm to you would certainly think twice before approaching you if you have a guide dog with you. This is reassuring, but your dog is not trained to protect you. Yes it is true that natural instinct might override training, but the dog should be corrected verbally if he chooses to bark or growl! If this behavior persists there is a good chance that the dog would become protective of you. The combination of guiding and over protectiveness just does not work. Why? Your dog cannot tell the difference between friends and those who might bring harm to you, or someone who might intend to cause problems for you. If your guide dog bites someone, you are responsible, and so is the school where your dog was trained. Guide dog schools are likely to remove a dog from an environment if the graduate is allowing the dog to be aggressive if they are notified. This also does not set well with the general public, so if your dog barks when the door bell rings consistently correct, because this can get out of hand quicker than you can imagine. This is another example of what one of us does affects all other guide dog users. We have enough battles to fight, without either intentionally or unknowingly, creating unpleasant situations. In other words having a guide dog as a protector, is not cool, or is not something to be proud of.

Part 6, Lesson 3

Introducing Your Dog To Family And Friends

It is essential for you to remember that the dog will always need to remain under your supervision. When you return home from training you and your dog will still be bonding. As stated your dog is in an environment that is completely unfamiliar. He will need your love, commitment and leadership more than ever. You need to be ready to take on the challenge! This includes explaining your role in the dog’s life in a loving, assertive manner to friends and family Hopefully they will respect any decisions that you will make in relation to you and your dog. If they are offended you must not be troubled. Your approach can make a huge impact upon them. If you are vague in your explanation, or you don’t give instructions at all and then become angry or upset, you are not only causing conflict in your personal relationships, but your actions or the lack thereof could affect your dog’s emotional health.

Furthermore, friends and family must understand the importance of not petting, or distracting your dog when it is wearing its harness. They need to have a clear understanding of the fact that your dog is in the working mode when in harness. Beyond this significant people in your life especially those with which you live need to understand that it is not a good idea for them to play with your new valuable partner, at least not for the first few months. The dog’s behavior will need to be monitored with regard to this. You were most likely instructed during training about what dog toys can be used. You need to spend some quality time each day playing with your dog yourself. After all, the dog works hard for you, and deserves some fun and relaxation in return!

So what can family members do to make the dog feel welcome? They may want to talk to the dog a little, and should give it some physical attention. However, petting from other family members should be limited at least for the first few months. Since you and your dog are a new team, the dog could easily become more bonded to someone else within your household if too much attention is given by that person. Guide dogs usually fit in quite well, and adjust quickly to their new homes, if you are firm in maintaining and supervising them when you first arrive there. Guide dogs learn to love the entire family, but you the handler must always be their primary concern focus, companion and friend. You must be in charge of your dog.

Part 6, Lesson 4

Introducing Your Dog To Other Pets In Your Home

Most likely when you filled out your application you answered a question about pets in your home. If you indicated the presence of other animals at home this was a consideration taken by instructors in choosing a dog for you.

First it is important to explain how dogs operate. As you probably know dogs are direct descendants of wolves. Because of this dogs see themselves as part of a pack where they have a position or status in comparison to other pack members. In your home you according to your dog’s mentality are pack leader, because you set his routine, and work and supervise him. Your family members are also a part of that pack mentality, and so are your pets. If you think of this in terms of pack membership technically your guide dog will be at the bottom of the pecking order. Although this rank is significant with regard to the way your dog conducts himself in your home and among the other dogs there your guide dog will understand that he is more important to you because of the work that he does for you.

It is important that introductions between your dog and other dogs in the home be done correctly to eliminate the possibility of jealousy, possessiveness over food, toys, etc.

Before you return home from training it would be helpful to explain to your spouse or another member of your household that the pet and your new dog be introduced on leash on mutual territory. Your yard or other place outside on your property will work well for this introduction Your dog should only be on leash when the initial introduction is done, not in harness. You should be holding your guide dog’s leash, while the family member holds the leash of the pet. The two dogs need to be given an opportunity to sniff each other, because this is the way dogs meet and greet. This simple introduction will give you an opportunity to see how they will react. After all seem to be comfortable, it is permissible to go into the house together. Your dog will be with you on leash so you shouldn’t have difficulty monitoring behavior. The pet dog may be upset at first, but most dogs enjoy having the companionship of another dog in the home. Your pet will view your home as its territory because it was there first and this to needs to be taken into account. Both dogs need to receive attention from you. The entire process is simply a matter of patience and common sense.

I would advise as would most guide dog schools that you separate the dogs when they are being fed. Dogs that get along may become aggressive when food is involved. If your family is accustomed to free feeding or leaving food down for your pets, you may have to resort to picking the food up once you return home with your new dog. Scheduled feedings are actually better for pets as well. If the members of your household are not receptive to this idea you will need to explain that it is not fair to set your dog up for correction. If the food is left sitting out it is too tempting for your guide dog to eat it. The type of food you and your family feed your pet may be different from the diet your dog received during training, and consequently your dog may become ill as a result. If the pets in your home are fed from the table or are allowed to beg for food you may find it necessary to have your guide dog on a tie down in another room while you are having meals to keep your dog from picking up these bad habits. Your dog is allowed to accompany you in restaurants, and might resort to begging if he is allowed to do so at home A patron of a restaurant would not be pleased if a guide dog grabbed food off of his plate. This would be an embarrassment for you as well. Guide dog schools discourage handlers from feeding human table scraps. Human food in general is very unhealthy for our guide dogs So if your family insists upon feeding your pets table scraps the tie down procedure during meals would also certainly be recommended.

After you and your new dog have been home for several weeks, and you feel that your dog is settled it is appropriate to allow the two dogs to play as long as things don’t get out of hand. Please correct both dogs if there appears to be a problem between them. Try not to favor one over the other. Yes your guide dog is well trained, but he is still a dog, and in some situations natural instincts will override the training he has received.

Part 6, Lesson 5

Introducing Your New Guide Dog To Your Retired Guide Dog

You may be reading this manual as a previous guide dog graduate. Your previous dog may no longer be able to work, but you may have chosen to keep your dog in your home as opposed to placing him with another family, or returning him to your guide dog school. If your retired guide dog will be living with you introductions to your new guide dog are equally as important. The old dog will go through a definite transition, because he loves you, but for whatever reason is no longer working for you and accompanying you wherever you go! He may not understand this, and may become upset when he sees the new dog having its harness put on. In most cases both old and new guide dogs usually bond quickly, and learn to live in harmony in the home.

Instructors certainly take this into account during the matching process. They want to make sure that the two dogs will be compatible in your home. This is an adjustment, but usually works out beautifully. In fact the adjustment will most probably be more difficult for you than for the 2 dogs, because now you will have more responsibility in terms of caring for both dogs. While you were away at training with your newest guide dog it might have been that your retired dog may have bonded with another family member who will be able to help you in carrying out all of this responsibility.

Part 6, Lesson 6

Introducing Your Guide Dog To Your Cat

Cats are a totally different species. They are independent, and generally play by their own rules. If your instructor knows in advance that you have a cat in your home, you will probably be given an opportunity in training to see how your dog reacts to cats. Most guide dogs react favorably and usually adjust to cats being in the home.

Caution: If you have a cat please keep the litter box and your cat’s food out of your dog’s reach. For some reason dogs are sometimes attracted to cat litter, and will eat whatever happens to be in the box. Unfortunately I have had firsthand experience with this. I once had a golden retriever named Buster who loved cat litter. Once while visiting a close friend the dog got into the litter, consumed everything in the box, and became quite ill the next day as a result of his antics.

Dogs seem to enjoy eating cat food as well. Since the food has been designed specifically for cats, it is different in composition than dog food, and contains some ingredients that might be harmful to your dog. It is also higher in calories and could cause serious weight gain and stomach upset.

Part 7

Part 7, Lesson 1

Adjusting Your Dog’s Park Schedule

You learned during your training at the school that there were designated times for relief or park time for your dog. As noted your dog needs at least 4 park times each day, especially in the beginning. The stress that results from training and your return home may cause your dog to need to relieve itself more often. Make sure that you give your dog plenty of time for this. If you take the time, this extra precaution will prevent unwanted accidents. If your dog does have an accident in your house or on route shortly after you have returned to your home, it is best not to correct him for making a mistake. The accident may be stress related. If accidents persist, and you have followed the procedure outlined to you by your instructor you might want to contact the graduate department for additional assistance. Some dogs become nervous and may need extra park or relief times.

Always allow a few minutes for your dog’s relief time. Do not be impatient. When you first get home from training your dog may be distracted by people, noises, and other animals. This can interfere with his timeliness with reference to relief. This should improve over time. Your dog was probably slow to relieve at first when you were in training together, and things got better as training progressed. You probably reached a point when you could predict the consistency of your dog’s park schedule. The same applies once you return home.

You will be able to predict when the dog is most likely to eliminate. Common sense tells you that the dog must be relieved upon your awakening each morning. It is a good idea to give your dog a chance to park just before you retire for the evening once you return home. Guide dog facilities realize that students who reside in a different time zone from the school will gradually need to adjust the park schedule accordingly. It is important, at least for the first few months or so to lavish your dog with praise when he has relieved himself. Whenever you plan to enter a shopping mall, restaurant or other public place it is equally as important to give the dog an extra park time as a precaution. This could alleviate possible embarrassment for you if your dog should have an accident in a public building. From another prospective it is not fair for you to expect your dog to work for you, if he needs to relieve himself. Think how uncomfortable you would be if it were you!

On the other hand if your dog should have an accident, please don’t expect some one else to clean it up! If a kind person offers to assist you with this task, work with them, and by all means apologize and thank them for their efforts. It is understandable that occasionally a dog may have gotten into something that causes stomach upset, or he may have become ill. In either case seek help from your veterinarian. This kind of problem just emphasizes that it is always a good idea to give your dog a park time before going inside a public place.

If you are in a public area and you are not familiar with your surroundings it would be a good idea to seek assistance in finding a relief area for your dog.

When you were in training with your dog you probably received instruction as to how to pick up after him. It is not certainly the most pleasant task, but it is your responsibility to clean up after your dog. Most apartment complexes, and other public areas require that pet owners pick up after their dogs. Blind people who choose to travel with guide dogs should not be the exception to this rule. The bottom line is just to be considerate of others. Be sure to carry plastic bags at all times to avoid an unpleasant, embarrassing situation.

If you are in an unfamiliar area inquire as to the location of the nearest trash can so that you can dispose of your dog’s waste.

Although laws protect guide dog teams it is unacceptable to expect owners of eating establishments and other public places to tolerate accidents. If your dog becomes sick or has an accident it is your responsibility to take care of it, and it is felt that you will owe the proprietor of the business an apology as well. Remember that what you do as a guide dog user not only affects you, but also has an impact on other guide dog teams. First impressions are important, and unfortunately negative impressions are very difficult to overcome.

I have been a guide dog user since 1975. You may find the following topic to be unpleasant, but it is necessary and is a definite part of your responsibility as a guide dog user. In recent years guide dog schools have required that all students learn how to clean up after their dogs have eliminated. So please always carry several plastic bags with you for cleanup purposes whenever you relieve your dog.

Part 7, Lesson 2

Oops! Accidents Happen

I would like to site a particular example that happened to me during training. My trainer was so cool, and eased my embarrassment as a result of her composure. My dog chose to relieve herself in a large discount department store. I didn’t even realize that the dog was having an accident. She was in harness, I was holding onto a shopping cart while heeling her. She had her accident as she continued to walk. My trainer didn’t realize it either until a customer pointed it out to us. I wanted to crawl in the nearest hole if only I could find one! My trainer said “Don’t worry about it. I’ll be back. I just have to get some paper towels.! So away she went to purchase the paper towels. She cleaned up the mess, and while she was doing so another customer just happened to ask what happens to the dogs who don’t make it through training? My instructor and I both laughed about it later Then my instructor just asked what do you need to buy in here?.

Part 8

Part 8, Lesson 1

Working Your Dog In Your Home Area

As you learned while in training your dog has been trained to work in a variety of settings. The fact that you have been previously oriented to your home area is a plus, because you will be able to teach your dog the routes you frequently travel once you return home. Your guide dog has become very familiar with the areas in which you traveled during training, because he had been trained there before your arrival. Now the tables are turned, so to speak. The dog knows nothing about its new location, and is completely dependent upon you to teach him the routes you travel.

You are perhaps wondering how you will have success with this process? The first routes should be simple, and short, such as around the block or something similar. If you are comfortable enough to go alone the first time, it would be helpful. An initial success is extremely important. Later on when teaching a more difficult route, you may want to solicit assistance from a friend, family member, or orientation and mobility instructor. Be careful that the dog looks to you for direction instead of becoming dependent upon the sighted person who is accompanying you.

Part 8, Lesson 2

Patterning

Many guide dog facilities are now incorporating a technique as a part of training known as patterning. This term refers to the idea of teaching a dog a particular route that you use frequently. Basically the blind person travels the route using a cane, while heeling the dog. The route should be repeated several times using this technique. Then you might want to work the dog having him guide you on the same route. If the dog is distracted or does not appear to be comfortable with the route repeat it until he is able to do it successfully. You may need to divide the route into sections giving the dog an opportunity to learn a little at a time. The important thing here is a successful accomplishment no matter how long it takes without overwhelming the dog. Then lavish with praise, praise, and more praise! both physical and verbal praise will motivate your dog to work harder and smarter. Get excited! This will motivate your dog even more!

You may want to use a treat to reinforce your dog’s success, but be careful not to use treats except only occasionally. You don’t want your dog to depend on treats as a constant reward for working for you. Besides dog biscuits contain many calories, are high in fat, and will cause your dog to gain weight quickly. They are however, great for keeping your dog’s teeth clean. I would recommend small puppy biscuits 1 or 2 for treats each day, but if you go for training please consult your school with regard to giving treats to your dog.

As a part of training in your home area, you may also want to use the patterning method in an additional way by walking sighted guide and heeling the dog. You can use the same procedure, as mentioned, repeat the route several times, and then allow the dog to guide you through it in the previously described way.

Caution: Please do not attempt to do too much too quickly! If you try to force your new dog to learn everything in a rapid manner, both you and the dog may become frustrated. You want as smooth of a transition from training to every-day life in your home area as possible. It is like a large puzzle, just put everything together one piece at a time. Take baby steps and reflect on your training, and the fact that a little something was added for you to learn each day. The same procedure applies to your dog in your home area.

Just be patient with yourself and more importantly with your dog. It is estimated that the development of a seasoned guide dog team can take from 6 months to 1 year. The time will come when you and your dog will anticipate each others movements, and the need to give corrections will become the exception rather than the rule. One day you will look back on all the hard work you and your dog went through in order to reach this level of cohesiveness. By that time you will probably have blocked out most of the initial difficulties you had as a team, it will be almost a blur! You will have achieved so much, and you will have so much to be proud of! You will be so thankful and blessed.

Part 9

Part 9, Lesson 1

Acclimating Your New Dog To The Work Place

The return to a work environment for you after returning home from training with your new dog can be a very stressful experience for both of you. This to requires patience, and more importantly a common sense approach. It is best if you can have a couple of days at home with your new dog before you take your dog to your job site. This will give both of you a time to regroup, and will give your dog some time to get used to its new home before jumping into a work routine.

I personally have found that things appear to go relatively smoothly if one takes the time to go to the office environment during a quiet time when there won’t be co workers, or janitorial staff around to distract or interfere with the dogs comfort level. If you work in an office you can simply pattern your dog around the building. Then it is wise to go to your office or designated work space in order to let the dog become familiar with it, and to become comfortable there. You can facilitate this process by sitting at your desk for a while, turning on the computer and maybe even by making some phone calls. It is recommended to have the dog either in harness while you are on the job, or at least on a tie down chain in your immediate work area. It is not a good idea to allow the dog to roam freely throughout your office building. The dog cannot reason that if he is off leash or tie down that he is to remain in your office if the door is left open. This is unfair to him, and just securing him on a tie down or having him in harness under your desk or work space establishes routine and keeps the dog in the working mode. If the dog is allowed to explore the building, he may get into trouble, or might even escape. Co-workers and visitors may be tempted to offer your dog human food which could result in accidents or illness. Your dog is always your responsibility, should remain under control, and your work environment is certainly no exception.

It might be a good idea to accept rides to and from your work place for the first few weeks. This gives the dog time to adjust to your office before adding additional time as part of the daily routine dealing with public transportation. Again it is simply a step-by-step process for you and your dog as a new team.

Part 9, Lesson 2

Dealing With People In The Work Place

Co workers and other people who might visit your office should receive strict instruction from you not to bother the dog during the work day. The dog will quickly adjust to its new routine in the work place. If you follow the suggested procedures prior to returning to work your new partner will be less distracted and stressed. It is equally important for you to give your dog a sufficient time for park or relief time before the beginning of your work day. If you can arrive early it would also help to go for a short walk around the block so that the dog will be ready to relax at the actual time that you begin your work day. Once again the dog needs a time for relief during a late morning break, or during your lunch break. The dog should be offered water periodically during the day while you are at work.

If your dog is well behaved at work which he should be, it would be permissible in my opinion to occasionally allow co workers to pet him in a controlled environment. It would be best to allow this with 1 or 2 people at a given time. Please request that folks approach your dog calmly and quietly so that you will be able to keep him under control. The dog in my opinion should be sitting at your left side on leash in order for this to happen. Co workers need to understand that they are not to give the dog commands, and that food should not be offered to your dog. It is a good idea to apply the principals mentioned in this section of this text in other situations that may be a part of your life such as church or other locations that you visit on a regular basis.

Part 9, Lesson 3

Continuing The Education Process

It is suggested that you provide a clear explanation to co workers, and other people you come in contact with on a frequent basis. Guide dog schools provide brochures and other materials to aid you in the process of educating the general public. You might also want to come up with a list of frequently asked questions to distribute in order to facilitate understanding.

Remember that educating the public is an on-going process.

Part 10

Part 10, Lesson 1

Managing Your Dog And The General Public

It is important to point out here that people in general are well meaning, and have our best interest at heart. The general public, for the most part, appear to be much more aware of the needs of people with disabilities, but there are still a number of folks who don’t have a clue what a guide dog is, and what it does. There are those who think that the dog automatically knows where to go, how to read traffic, and even some who believe that the dog sits with his watchful eye protecting us from the rest of the world. Many people see the dog as a robot that should never make any mistakes. Some don’t understand why it is necessary for the dog to accompany a blind person who is with sighted people. So based on all of these erroneous assumptions it is our responsibility to educate the public, and to help them understand what we need or don’t need from them as guide dog users. Remember that we can educate people from now on, and there will still be those who will never understand, and those who have been enlightened, but just do not want to adjust their thinking and attitudes.

A rule of thumb when dealing with the general public, is to be consistently firm, but diplomatic. People will want to pet your dog when your dog is wearing its harness. Guide dog users do not always agree with the policy of restricting attention to the dog from the public when the dog is in harness. I have found that restricting the dog from petting and other forms of attention when it is harnessed will produce a dog that is well under control. There is an appropriate way to deal with this without being rude or offensive. You can certainly dismiss this advice if you like, but what seems to work best when a person asks to pet the dog who is harnessed is to say “I’m sorry he or she is working right now, and shouldn’t receive any attention, but thanks so much for asking.! That way you are not chastising the person for asking, or implying that they should know better. This approach also helps people to be more comfortable with the handler.

I can honestly say that on a personal level I have been accused of being too strict with my dogs. My many years of experience as a guide dog user have shown me that firmness both with the dog and educating the public pays off in the long run. If you constantly fret over what people will think you will never have any sense of peace. Your guide dog is responsible for your safety. If you allow the dog to have too much attention while it is in harness he will be more interested in other people than in his work. I was in college when I obtained my first dog in 1975. I was afraid I would cause hurt feelings among students on campus so I allowed the dog to receive too much attention from them. Consequently after 9 months I had to return my dog to the school. I need to point out that the dog had other problems as well, but I learned a very valuable lesson from my lack of discipline.

Part 10, Lesson 2

My Experiences

I would like to site some examples of someone petting a dog without permission. I was employed as receptionist in the Attorney General’s Office in Arkansas. There was a sign on the front desk, my work station explaining that the dog was at work and should not receive any attention. I was busy assisting telephone callers and later learned that a gentleman who was visiting the office crawled under the desk in order to pet the dog. A co worker waved the sign in his face, and he removed himself from the vicinity of the dog. We laughed about this incident after he left. The point is that sometimes we can cope with awkward situations with a better attitude if we find the humor in them. This admittedly so is not always easy, and people can be absolutely annoying.

On another occasion I was visiting a department store. My dog Milo was new and I didn’t want him to be distracted by other customers or workers in the store. Someone asked the dog’s name and I said Juno so that they wouldn’t use his name. I forgot that I had done this. When I picked up the harness after my purchase, I preceded to the front door by saying, “Milo, find the door”. I heard the clerk who had assisted me say I thought she said his name was Juno? I blew it, but at least the dog was able to do his job without being distracted.

Part 10, Lesson 3

Asking For Help

If you should become disoriented or you find that you could use some assistance from a sighted person, your approach again should be one of diplomacy. Explain what you need, or where you are trying to go. Then it is up to you to let the person know how they will best be able to assist you. You might want to drop the harness, take their arm while heeling the dog until you are oriented, again, and can proceed on your own. Another approach would be to instruct your dog to follow them. If you choose the following method, it is a good idea to explain to the person giving assistance that they need to talk to you as you follow them so you know where they are at all times, and to notify you if they are turning right or left. No matter what method of assistance you choose please be as courteous as possible, and thank the person who helped you. If the person calls your dog or attempts to give him commands please politely ask him to refrain from this. Further explain that the dog needs to receive all of its commands from you. Again be courteous but firm

I would like to site an example of this very thing. This morning my golden retriever Ella and I were walking in our apartment complex. This one absolutely blew my mind! As we walked a man from a car within a few feet from us repeated the word or command straight. I didn’t recognize his voice, but apparently he must live here. He I assume must have heard me giving Ella the straight command at another time. I stopped and simply said “excuse me, sir, but my dog should receive commands from only me, not anyone else.” He was receptive and apologized. I could have become angry, but chose just to assert myself. I was amazed that he would take the initiative to give my dog commands like that, but one never knows what will happen next!! Most people will be receptive to honoring your request in terms of assisting you. Remember that first impressions can and do make a world of difference.

If the person points in some direction and says this or that way please explain that you need clear verbal directions. It is difficult, but try not to appear annoyed when the person tries to help you by pointing, grabbing your arm, or pushing you. You may encounter a person who will even grab the dog’s harness. This in particular is inappropriate and not helpful. People usually mean well, but just don’t know any better.

Part 10, Lesson 4

Dealing With Others’ Questions

You may find that people you encounter while in public with your dog will ask you a variety of questions. Some questions may sound ridiculous to you, but here again tact is the key. I for instance was asked if my dog knew its name. When this sort of thing comes up a good old fashioned sense of humor is the best approach. I smiled and said he knows a lot more than that, or I’m in big trouble! On another occasion after giving a rather lengthy presentation to a Lion’s Club a gentleman asked me some very strange questions! First he wanted to know if I had to take the dog to a special room in order to put the harness on? Secondly he wanted to know if I told the dog how long he would be working that day, and lastly he asked if the dog would come when called? I smiled and simply answered his questions as politely as I could. I thought his questions were preposterous, but I did not let it show. The bottom line is no matter what you are asked just be tactful. Remember that you are representing your school of choice as well as all guide dog users every time you venture out into public. It is a constant test and from time to time you might fail with regard to the reactions or responses you give, but forget it, and move on. Consider each and every instance as a learning experience, and ask God for patience and guidance!

Part 11

Part 11, Lesson 1

Following Training Advice

When you were in training with your dog, your school gave you very specific instructions about how to work and handle your dog in a number of different situations.

Suggestion: Do not allow your family, friends, veterinarian, dog obedience trainers, or anyone else other than someone from your school to dictate how you should work with your dog. Guide dog facilities are designed to do that. They are there to assist you once you return home if you are experiencing difficulties. The general public, usually as stated, have your best interest at heart, and think that they are helping you, when in fact they may be complicating your problems. You went through training with your dog, and after a time you will be able to detect your dog’s movements, feelings, and any particular problems that may be developing. Instructions given by friends or family may be different than those you received from your class instructor. This will be confusing for you, and even more so for your dog. If you are uncertain as to how to handle a specific route or problem with your dog, by all means notify the school. Sometimes sighted people don’t understand why a guide dog may be making mistakes especially in the beginning. Communication between you and your dog is key here. Do not allow sighted people to give instruction to or call your dog. All commands need to come from only u, and you must make this clear if you are to have success as a team. You want to remain patient and diplomatic, but if you do this and someone is offended by your words or actions you simply must not worry about it. You are only carrying out what you have been trained to do with your dog.

There may be times when you become frustrated with unfair criticism, and yes even harassment from sighted people, and you may in fact occasionally lose your cool. It happens, because you are human! Be aware of comments and situations that trigger high emotions, and if you are irritated, don’t beat yourself up for it! Try to handle things better the next time. Apologize to the person who has upset you if you feel it is necessary, but just move on when these things happen!

Part 11, Lesson 2

Keeping Your Dog Safe

If you are reading this manual as a guide dog user, you learned in training that your safety as a guide dog team is the most important aspect of your training. Beyond this you were instructed to make sure that your dog would be safe in all circumstances. This will require constant assertiveness on your part. To be more specific you must avoid situations where your dog could be injured. As stated before most people are well intended, but don’t understand how your dog has been trained.

First and foremost it is my opinion that you should open doors for you and your dog. It is natural and a common courtesy for folks to want to assist you by opening the door for you. It is always best to be receptive to the offered help and to always say thank you. You as I see it have the responsibility to explain why you need to open the door for you and your dog. Each school has its own techniques in terms of working a guide dog through an opened door, but your dog will be more comfortable if you are in charge of the door that is being opened or closed. Sighted people do not understand that the door must be held open not only for you to walk through, but the dog must be given time to get through it as well. Typically what happens is that a well meaning person will let the door go before the dog has been able to get through it safely. If the dog’s tail gets caught, or he gets hit in the face by a closing door not only will he be injured, but you run the risk of having a guide dog who will refuse to work through another door as a guide. Consequently the dog might be so traumatized that he may need to be retired as a result of this kind of incident. Again be polite, but explain why you need to take care of doors yourself. If you are uncomfortable refusing help with this , please instruct the person who is holding the door to make sure the dog has made it through before closing the door. If people are offended because you choose to be independent and safe it is not your problem! Your dog must come first!

When you were in training you were introduced to escalators, and revolving doors. In my view both of these are extremely dangerous for guide dogs teams. If you were not comfortable following procedures for escalators and revolving doors while in training, please do not suddenly decide to change your mind and use them. You could be putting both you and your dog in danger. I would suggest contacting your school for additional help if you should decide to use them.

Part 12

Part 12, Lesson 1

Dealing With Difficult People

You may find that there will be times that you and your guide dog will encounter those individuals who will attempt to make your life miserable. It is often hard to determine why such persons choose to react in a negative, condescending or difficult manner. You might for example run across a person who seems to delight in making an attempt to distract your dog with food, or by teasing it with the use of hand motions, or who knows whatever reason they may take pleasure in disrupting your work as a team.

The best advice is to ask the person in a polite way to refrain from whatever they are doing that is interfering with your work. If you are not sure what they are doing to distract your dog, just simply try to work your dog through the situation. This will usually resolve the problem. It is not productive to argue with the person who may be harassing you or distracting your dog. You may find it necessary to contact local authorities such as the police department if this kind of incident occurs. Please understand that people who want for whatever reason to antagonize you are in a small minority. Such instances are not the norm for most guide dog users.

Part 12, Lesson 2

Correcting Your Dog In Public

You may very well at times be criticized unjustly for correcting your guide dog in public. Sometimes if a verbal correction is not effective, you may find it necessary to administer a leash correction for which you may hear negative comments. In the first place leash corrections are not physically painful for your dog. It is simply the sound from the sharp, quick jerk on the leash that causes the dog to react. He will consequently stop what he is doing that is wrong. Again remember that most people haven’t a clue why you corrected the dog. Corrections are necessary in maintaining control of your dog, especially while the team is becoming a solid entity. Be sensitive to the concerns of others, explain if appropriate, but by all means don’t stop giving corrections if you feel they are needed!

Part 12, Lesson 3

Consistency

As you learned in training your dog has been taught to respond to both verbal and physical corrections. I think in general guide dog instructors from all schools would agree that a verbal correction should be given first followed by a leash correction if a verbal warning has not been effective. The physical correction as you know is a quick snap or jerk of the leash which is attached to your dog’s collar. The administered correction does not hurt your dog. He is responding to the noise made by the giving of the correction, and not its impact. For example, if your dog runs you into an obstacle that he should have cleared while guiding you, this would be a reason to give a correction. It is important to be consistent when giving corrections. If the dog is not corrected each time he makes a mistake, he may become confused, and as a result you may be injured. Your relationship with your guide dog is based on unconditional love and mutual respect which in my opinion includes corrections. You can’t spend your time worrying about what sighted people think about how you handle your dog. If public criticism is interfering with your work as a team please consult with your school.

Part 13

Part 13, Lesson 1

Self Advocacy For You And Your Dog

As mentioned in an earlier section of this manual guide dog teams are by law allowed access to all public facilities: restaurants, shopping malls, business establishments, and so on and are given the right to travel on all forms of public transportation. As a general rule most business proprietors are aware of access laws that pertain to guide dog teams. However, occasionally one might experience difficulties with regard to such access. It is tempting to over react and to become emotional demonstrating feelings of frustration and anger. Most folks who may ask you and your dog to leave the premises are usually just unaware of your rights. I feel that you have the responsibility to explain your rights to the owner. Most schools issue an ID with a photograph of you and your dog stating that you are graduates of their school. It is a good idea to carry a copy of your state law with you as well as a handbook of laws as they relate to your specific area of residence. I would like to site two specific examples. The first one happened in 1982. I was having lunch with an acquaintance at a restaurant. The manager asked us to leave because of the dog. I explained and the manager said that we could stay, but insisted that he would need to contact the local health department. He did so, and came over to our table after his inquiry and apologized for his lack of awareness and error in judgment.

On another occasion I visited a familiar fast food chain with my husband and guide dog. The young man who was assisting customers at the counter allowed us to order. He quietly pulled my husband aside and stated that he didn’t believe that the manager would approve of our presence. I, immediately checked the restaurant’s website as soon as we returned to our home. I found a comment under frequently asked questions that indicated that guide dogs were allowed in the facility in question by Federal law. I promptly filled out a customer complaint form reviewing the events of the day at the restaurant we had visited earlier. Within one hour the telephone rang. It was a local representative of the company who apologized for this mis- understanding and offered my spouse and I a complimentary meal at the establishment in our immediate neighborhood where the incident in question took place. I first accepted the verbal apology and then requested documentation containing an apology in writing, and then graciously accepted the offer. I then submitted a thank you note to the local Corporate manager who had contacted me. So what is being said here is that self advocacy is extremely important. We must take care of ourselves and our needs, while respecting the rights of others at the same time. Although it was tempting to contact the local police department and newspaper, it is my opinion that the steps taken instead were much more effective. Education and public awareness was provided, and this incident paved the way not only for me, but for other guide dog teams in this area as well. If we conduct ourselves in a positive, assertive, diplomatic manner those we educate will see all of us as guide dog users in a positive light, and if we do the opposite we damage the good that a guide dog team in the future may do within that particular establishment. As we know first impressions again are lasting, and sometimes appear to be almost impossible to overcome.

It is important to note that guide dog schools will advocate for their graduates in difficult, unpleasant situations if they are requested to do so by the graduate.

Part 13, Lesson 2

Respecting The Rights of Others

There will be times that you as a guide dog user will come in contact with people who will not welcome the presence of your guide dog in their home. The person who says no may be afraid of dogs, may be allergic to them, or just may not be willing to allow a dog in their home for any reason. It may not matter to them that your dog is clean and well trained.

We know that guide dog teams are protected by both state and Federal law, but we can’t force folks to allow us in their private homes.

So what are you to do? You could become angry defensive, and argumentative, but this in my opinion would accomplish nothing. You of course always have the option to stay at home. You will need to evaluate the importance of the activity or event, and will have to decide how important it is to you. If you would only be away for a few hours, it would certainly be fine to swallow your pride, forgive as God would expect, and leave your dog at home. However, if this would be an outing that would involve an entire day or longer, it in my opinion would be in your best interest as a team to stay at home. You could make arrangements to leave your guide dog with a friend or family member, but if you choose to do so it is recommended that you provide detailed instructions with regard to your dog’s care. Another option would be to board your dog at your vet’s office, or at a kennel. Some guide dog facilities offer boarding for dogs that were trained at their school in special circumstances.

Personally I am not comfortable being away from my guide for extended periods of time. I certainly respect the rights of others, but there seems to be a very fine line. Overall if my dog is not welcome, neither am I because my dog is an extension of me.

If you visit someone and the dog is only allowed if you are willing to leave it in their garage or back yard, it is best to refuse the offer in my opinion The dog won’t understand this separation. Your dog is used to living in-doors with you, and could become stressed and ill as a result of extreme heat or cold. Besides this there could possibly be things that your dog could get into in another person’s back yard. He could even be stolen! You need to be responsible and perhaps a little selfish in the eyes of the sighted world where your dog’s safety and welfare is concerned. Your dog is probably as valuable to you as your spouse, significant other or child, and that’s exactly the way it should be! Remember to be tactful but assertive in all situations.

Many years ago shortly after I had re-located from Texas to Little Rock Arkansas for a job in the Attorney General’s Office I began to look for a church. I contacted a church in the vicinity of my apartment complex. The lady who contacted me was warm and friendly until I mentioned that I had a guide dog. She indicated that she would be happy to provide rides to church, but stated that she would prefer not to have the dog in her car. Again this is her right, due to privacy issues. I was appalled, angry, at first, but after contemplation graciously declined her offer. I could have been aggressive, but it wouldn’t have changed her mind. I found another church in the meantime.

As another example at one point in my life I was very lonely, and vulnerable. I had just broken up with my boyfriend. I joined a church choir, and met several people there. A lady who shall remain nameless befriended me there, and began to offer to help me with groceries, organizing my clothes, and other personal needs as well. This was great, and we got along well with the exception of one thing! It was her definite opinion that it was unnecessary for me to have my guide dog with me in public when she was there to guide me.

It was almost like a competition, she didn’t want my dog to guide me unless I was alone. I was lonely, emotionally needy for friends, and passive. I did not want to be difficult so I gave in to this for 4 long years. The relationship ended over these issues and I regained my independence. Please don’t ever allow a domineering demanding person to control you with regard to your guide dog, or for that matter in anything.

I need to point out that I did not neglect my dog in any way during this period of my life. We were together just about all of the time during the week. I only was expected to leave him frequently on the weekends. As you know dogs are forgiving and love so freely, that I don’t think this problem caused any difficulties in our relationship However, when I retired Buster at age 10 I believe the grief and guilt I experienced was intensified as a result of those times I had left him so often a few years before.

Part 13, Lesson 3

Taking Responsibility For Your Dog In A Private Home

When you visit someone you are responsible for your guide dog’s behavior. I would recommend keeping the dog in harness or at least on leash in order to maintain control. If your dog mis- behaves, chews up something, or has an accident in a private residence, the school is not responsible, you are. Even though your dog is very well behaved at home, he may become curious or excited in another place, and may act out or get into something. Remember dogs are just like children in this regard.

Whatever you do, please don’t let others dictate to you how and when your dog should be harnessed, on or off leash etc at their residence. The decisions about this need to be made by you, and only you! It is a good idea to gently remind other people that you went through the training and were given instructions about how to handle your dog in any given situation.

Part 14

Part 14, Lesson 1

Your Dog’s Appearance

It has been mentioned in an earlier section of the book that daily grooming is a responsibility that should be taken very seriously by guide dog users. It is essential that the dog be well groomed in order to accompany his partner in public places. You will find that if you keep your dog looking clean and healthy you will for the most part be more than welcome, and you are likely to receive a multitude of compliments with regard to your dog’s appearance. Daily grooming will stimulate oils on your dog’s coat, and body, and will help to keep the coat clean and shiny. Frequent grooming will eliminate doggy odor. Besides all of this the other advantage to daily grooming is that you will enhance your relationship with your dog. In other words grooming is relaxing for the dog, and it serves as a thank you for a job well done. It is felt that the dog just feels better as we do when it is kept clean. Furthermore, daily grooming will keep shedding to a minimum.

Part 14, Lesson 2

Brushing Your Dog’s Teeth

You will probably learn during training that it is important to brush your dog’s teeth. This is a difficult task to master, and dogs for the most part do not enjoy it! It is best to use a hand held toothbrush that is specifically designed for dogs. You can purchase doggy toothpaste which tastes pleasant to your dog. It is not advisable to use human toothpaste. As stated most dogs protest having their teeth brushed initially, but become used to this as a part of grooming. You should brush your dog’s teeth 2 to 3 times each week. This habit will keep your dog’s teeth and gums healthy, and will prevent him from having bad breath. You will also save yourself money with regard to finding it necessary to have your dog’s teeth cleaned as often.

Part 14, Lesson 3

Your Dog’s Nails

It is important to make sure that your dog’s toe nails are kept fairly short. First your dog could scratch you or someone else whether he means to or not if his nails are kept too long. It may also be that the floors in your home as well as your furniture may be damaged as a result of long toe nails. The dog does not feel comfortable when his nails are too long. If nails are neglected for an extended period of time it can actually become painful for your dog to walk. Typically regular walking on concrete surfaces will help to keep the nails worn down, but trimming may still be necessary on a fairly regular basis. I have been told that a dog who has long nails feels the same kind of pain and discomfort that we experience when we are wearing shoes that are too tight. It is recommended that you request that a vet, groomer or other sighted person trim your dog’s nails. Dogs do not enjoy having their feet touched, and if you try to clip the nails yourself you may injure yourself or your dog.

I have found that it is helpful in terms of grooming to wash the dog’s face each morning, just as you do your own. When your dog wakes up he may have accumulated sleep in his eyes, just as we do. Since your dog serves as your eyes keeping his eyes free from dirt or debris is extremely important and necessary. It is recommended that you use a wet wash cloth or nonalcoholic baby wipe to wash your dog’s face. These wipes feel cool to the dog, and most dogs seem to enjoy this sensation. Many of these nonalcoholic baby wipes are lightly scented, and will consequently aid in good grooming.

Part 14, Lesson 4

Bathing Your Dog

I believe that guide dog facilities in general would agree that if your dog is properly groomed, bathing will rarely be necessary. Most facilities suggest that baths are usually only needed 2-3 times a year. You may take on the challenge. If you choose to bathe your dog yourself it is imperative that you rinse the dog thoroughly to make sure that there is no leftover soap on his skin. Soap residue can cause rashes and skin irritation. I have bathed my own dogs, but find it much easier to have it done by a vet or groomer.

Part 14, Lesson 5

Feeding and Maintaining Your Dog’s Weight

I have observed over the years that guide dog facilities appear to have become much more strict with regard to requirements when it comes to feeding your guide dog. They have learned that dogs who guide the blind have a tendency to usually gain weight more easily than pets. Guide dogs get exercise, but it is a different form of exercise than pets that run and play outside. Students often struggle with the idea of cutting back on food portions, because they are afraid that the dog won’t be getting enough to eat, or enough nutrition. Sometimes dogs are picky about their food during class, and lose weight as a result of the stress of training. Others eat every bite very quickly. The training environment from the dogs point of view is very competitive. Therefore dogs who gobble down their food are afraid that another dog will get their food if they don’t devour it quickly. They usually slow down once they become accustomed to their home environment.

When a student graduates from class instructors or the school’s veterinarian usually give the graduate an estimate of the amount of food the dog should be eating each day. As the dog matures and develops the amount of food given will most likely need to change. Dogs just like us have their own metabolisms and their weight and amount of food needs to be measured accordingly. There are light and weight control versions of most commercial dog foods. Available at grocery stores and pet stores. If your dog ever needs specialized foods for allergies or other health conditions these foods can be purchased from your vet and in some cases online. Please consult your vet and the school from which you graduated for assistance.

Just like people dogs who are allowed to gain too much weight feel sluggish and somewhat lethargic. I as a result of my concerns about this have adopted a policy to work my dog at least 30 minutes each and every day unless I am ill or there is an unusual circumstance which would limit our activity. This daily exercise will help to keep your dog’s weight in check, and will keep him from becoming bored. Dogs who become obese can develop arthritis, and other health conditions.

I would like to share an experience of a dog who gained too much weight. My guide dog Oneda weighed 72 pounds for several years. I knew she was overweight because the school’s recommended weight for her was 56 pounds. I never varied her portion, I measured it very carefully. She consistently ate 2 cups of weight control dog food each day, and no treats. However, at each and every annual checkup the vet insisted that she was healthy and looked great. Finally at age 9 she developed arthritis in her back as a result of the extra weight. The vet decided to do blood work and discovered that she needed thyroid medication. Soon after she began this treatment she quickly lost weight. Needless to say I was displeased with what I considered to be carelessness by my vet, and as a result of his mistake I changed to another vet clinic.

Guide dog schools do not recommend giving table scraps. Human food in general is unhealthy for the dog’s digestive system, and can certainly contribute to weight gain.

Part 14, Lesson 6

Dog Treats

In 1975 when I got my first guide dog the school I attended instructed us to give our dog 1 very large dog biscuit once each day. I usually did this in the morning so that my dog would have a little food in her stomach before our work day began.

Dog biscuits are high in fat and calories. I have observed that it seems most guide dog schools now provide treats but in smaller portions. Students are encouraged to give treats as a reward for a job well done, or for successfully getting the dog to respond correctly to a difficult working problem. I am of the old school philosophy, and keep in mind that this is just my personal opinion. I feel that guide dogs can become too dependent upon treats for reward. Besides giving too many treats can result in significant weight gain. I consider physical and verbal praise to be much more effective and the attention your dog receives from you with regard to doing a good job will be the greatest reward of all! Verbal and physical praise will make your dog happy and will strengthen the bond between the two of you. the bond will constantly develop and the relationship will continue to grow. Your safety will one day become your dog’s only concern.

Part 15

Part 15, Lesson 1

Controlling Your Emotions

It is here that I wish to give some very sound and necessary advice with regard to your emotions. Your emotional stability or the lack thereof can directly affect your relationship with your guide dog. All of us have bad days, including our beloved guide dogs. Life often changes and people and events can affect our moods and sense of well being. Even our health can affect what kind of day we will have.

I have learned over the years that if I am having a particularly bad day it is often better not to work my dog. You may be wondering why I choose to make this decision. I know that when I am feeling stressed or I am not feeling well I have a tendency to over react and at times have gotten frustrated and irritated with the dog. You know this happens when you have children as well. Because we are constantly in the public eye people will be able to pick up on our frustration through our tone of voice etc. They might just interpret our lack of patience as abuse. You and I know it isn’t, but we must be extremely careful not to give the general public a bad impression.

If I am having a bad day I cope by allowing myself to take a break from being with my dog. This in turn gives my dog an opportunity to spend some time away from me (see part 16 of this text).

It is also important to note that when the occasional bad day occurs the dog may take advantage of your bad feelings and frustrations. He may become more distracted than usual, or may act out by pulling harder, or in general may just exhibit signs of rebellion due to the frustration and tension that is created during this time. If you are upset about something please don’t take it out on your dog. Dogs are the most forgiving creatures in the world, because they live in the moment and bless their angel hearts love us unconditionally no matter what we do or how we act. However, they should not have to endure the brunt of our own weaknesses, fears and frustrations.

Many dogs are extremely sensitive to emotional upheaval, and may not be able to cope with constant emotional changes on your part. So consider your dog’s feelings first if you are having a rotten day. Sometimes after you have achieved a sense of serenity you may find that a nice long walk may be just what you need to feel better about things. It is better to work the dog after you have calmed yourself down. So take deep breaths, pray, talk to someone you feel close to or just do whatever it takes to get your emotions back into balance.,

Honestly if you are a person who struggles with constant emotional turmoil you might want to consider not having a guide dog until you can get your emotions under control. You may need to seek Professional help from a therapist, or counselor in order to accomplish this

.

Part 16

Part 16, Lesson 1

Choosing A Veterinarian

You have returned from your school with your new guide dog, partner and friend! You want to have your partner for as many years as possible! If you have had pets or a guide dog previously, you have established a good relationship with your vet. However, if you are getting your first dog, and do not have pets in your home, you may want to do some research in terms of choosing an appropriate vet. It would have been a good idea to have research this prior to going for training, but it is certainly advisable once you return home if you haven’t done it before you left for training.

There are some definite things to consider when choosing a vet. First you need to be practical with regard to location of the vet clinic. Is it within walking distance? If not will you be able to get there easily by using public transportation? Perhaps you have a friend or family member who will be willing to drive you and your dog to the vet’s office. This would work as well.

Secondly you might need to consider cost. Vets in general charge similar prices when giving vaccinations, the dispensing of medications, etc but may vary from one to another. It is appropriate when you inquire to ask about possible discounts for service dog users. However, it would be strongly recommended that you be concerned about more than just a discount. If necessary you might want to have a sighted person to accompany you to the vet office you are considering in order to examine it for cleanliness, attitude of staff, level of caring and so forth. In other words if you pay less you may not receive the best care and service for your dog.

Once you have chosen a vet be sure to take any paperwork given to you by your school so that your vet can make copies of your dog’s shot records etc. Follow specific guidelines given to you by your school during training as to how soon you should visit your vet after returning home from training. I feel that it is a good idea to keep the school informed about your dog’s weight, health and overall well being. Some guide dog schools offer financial assistance such as stipends with regard to a sudden serious illness or chronic health condition. Others do not. Consequently you must evaluate whether or not you would have the financial means to pay for mounting vet bills if your chosen school is not willing or able to accommodate you.

Part 17

Part 17, Lesson 1

Spending Time Away From Your Dog

Before you decided to obtain a guide dog you learned that you and your dog would be spending most of your life together for many years to come. During training you may have been asked to leave your dog behind in your dormitory room, on his tie down chain while you participated in a kennel tour or some other scheduled activity. You probably felt uneasy, were very concerned that your dog would be upset by this and rightfully so. On one hand you were told that your dog would need to accompany you everywhere, so being asked to leave the dog alone for a short period of time seemed to be contradictory. However, leaving the dog occasionally is actually in the best interest for both you and your dog.

You need to use a common sense approach just as with everything else that pertains to your guide dog. Although your dog loves you and enjoys being with you more than anything else, he may sometimes enjoy having an opportunity to just be a dog without any responsibility. In other words the dog doesn’t mind being by himself on occasion. This process needs to be a slow one. leaving the dog alone for only a few minutes the first time, gradually increasing the time as you go. It is all right to leave the dog for several hours at a time once he has adjusted to spending time without you. In general, guide dogs who are well adjusted behave well when they are left alone. It is a good idea to leave the dog on a tie down chain or in a crate the first few times. This will help him to feel more secure. If your dog is accustomed to being by himself from time to time he will usually adapt to you being away for an extended period of time such as a hospital stay. Hospitals by law allow guide dogs, but sometimes it would not be practical to have your dog with you in a hospital room if you are too ill to care for him properly. In a case such as this it is my opinion that the dog would be better off at home in the care of a responsible family member, or friend with whom you have provided specific instructions. You might want to have a member of your household to occasionally park or feed your dog for you in case a situation or emergency would come up that might require leaving the dog for a few days or extended period of time. If the dog has become totally dependent upon you, he might grieve in your absence and refuse to eat. This is not an implication that you should expect another person to carry out your responsibilities where your dog is concerned. These things should only be done on a very occasional basis. If you are ever in a position that would require leaving your guide dog in the care of a responsible family member or friend make sure they are capable of doing what you ask with regard to the care and treatment of your valuable guide dog. You might want to put instructions in writing so that the person in charge of your dog can refer to them as needed.

Your dog should never be worked by anyone other than you. Your dog has been carefully selected for you. It is inappropriate for a spouse, other family member or friend to utilize your dog as their guide under any circumstances. This is not just my personal opinion. I am confident that all guide dog schools would wholeheartedly agree with me on this one. If you are ill or out of commission yourself for a while it is perfectly acceptable to have a family member or friend to take your dog for a walk to provide daily exercise. The dog should be in the heel position on the person’s left side. The person who is walking the dog should be instructed to stop at both up and down curbs so the dog won’t get into a habit of jumping them when he is in harness, and guiding you.

Part 17, Lesson 2

Traveling With Your Guide Dog

I have a very definite opinion about taking the dog along on trips, to seminars or conferences where out-of-town travel is involved. I believe that it is an honor to be accompanied by a guide in situations such as these. The dog certainly deserves a break, just as we do, but would prefer to be with you as opposed to being left at home. It is perfectly fine to leave a guide dog in a hotel room for a couple of hours to give him a break from a busy schedule. It is simply a matter of considering the dog and his needs while accommodating your own life style and travel needs. Remember that your guide dog is your partner, and needs to be included in as much of your life as possible.

It is important to think about places where your dog may be uncomfortable, or situations that could cause harm. In my view taking a guide dog to a bar or restaurant where alcohol is being served is just not a good idea! In the first place if you choose to drink alcoholic beverages you may be altering your own ability to function. Your altered state may be confusing for your dog. You may become disoriented, or you may have trouble maintaining your balance, or your ability to walk in a straight line. You might even become impatient with your dog who intends to please you, or you might give the dog incorrect commands which will only confuse him more. If you intend to partake of alcoholic beverages please by all means leave your dog at home!

It is not a good idea to expose your dog to extremely loud music, or large crowds at events or concerts where people in attendance may be out of control. This could potentially cause your dog to be injured or stepped on. If there is dim lighting audience participants may not be aware of your dog’s presence. Again use common sense, and leave the dog behind at home or in a comfortable place. By all means park your dog before you leave him alone at home!.

If you are employed in a factory or similar setting, it would be best to keep your dog in a quiet place either on a tie down chain or in a crate Safety should always be the first consideration for your dog. Employers are usually receptive to accommodating you and your dog’s needs. Don’t forget to park the dog at appropriate times, offer him water, and provide some exercise during your lunch hour or during a break.

Part 18

Part 18, Lesson 1

Retiring Your Dog

So you have had your beloved friend for many years. In general most guide dogs can work effectively for approximately 8 to 10 years. However, sometimes circumstances dictate that you must retire your dog much earlier. Retirement may be due to a medical problem, or can be related to a behavioral or working issue. It is important to stress the fact that no guide dog school is flawless. Moreover, sometimes a school may match a team that just doesn’t work out. There are no guarantees! It doesn’t mean that the school isn’t reputable, it is just all part of the process, and as we know the only perfect person on this earth was Jesus Christ, no instructor is perfect! Clearly guide dog schools do their very best to match students and dogs, but no one of course can predict what will happen after the team goes home.

Sometimes dogs need to be retired early or returned to the school, because the student did not follow the instructions outlined during training. Remember that guide dogs are not necessarily for every blind or visually impaired person. After the completion of training and a return trip home a graduate may discover that the dog is just too much responsibility, and unfortunately at times simply too much trouble! Some people figure out that they can’t handle the demands and constant presence of the dog 24 hours a day. Some people come to realize that they are just more comfortable traveling with a cane. If a graduate in fact makes a decision to return the dog to the school he will still most likely grieve over such a painful choice. The graduate may be burdened with guilt over the acknowledgment of his true feelings about this. There is however, a bright future for the dog. If the guide is still young and in good health, it will be reevaluated by the school, and will go through an additional training cycle, and will be matched to another student. This of course is an extra adjustment for the dog, but he will survive it with little difficulty.

Graduate students because of previous experience may attempt to push the dog too quickly in its new environment when they return home after training, for example, taking a new dog into a work environment without introducing it to the work place first during a quiet time)

Guide dog schools can usually follow up with the team to alleviate working or behavioral problems at home, but at times this does not work. Consequently it will require that a dog may need to return to the school for additional training, or may in fact need to be retired. It may be that the dog is more suited to another student’s needs, and if he is young enough may be placed with someone else.

Often the stress a guide dog endures when working is just too much for him to bear. Dogs who cannot cope are referred to as career change dogs. Dogs such as these are either returned to their puppy raiser, or they are placed in loving homes with carefully screened adoptive families.

Even if you have a guide dog who needs to be retired due to behavioral or working problems, this doesn’t lessen the impact of the emotional roller coaster that you will experience.

The only real comparison that seems to be equivalent is that of losing a child to death. No matter what the length of time may be when you make the choice to retire your dog for whatever reason, it doesn’t ease the pain you will go through. Your feelings certainly should not be ignored or dismissed. You will experience all of the normal emotions associated with grief in any given situation. Your grieving will include shock, denial, anger, depression, and guilt and finally acceptance.

You might initially deny that there is a problem with your dog, whether it be behavioral, or medical in nature. You are hopeful that you can work it out, and that it really isn’t a big deal anyway. Once you have gone through this phase you may feel some guilt, you didn’t do enough especially if the reason for retiring your dog is a medical one. You will most certainly become depressed and lethargic. You may feel anger toward yourself, toward God for allowing this to happen to you, and yes perhaps you might feel some resentment toward your dog. Why should you have to go through this? After all you have been there for him, and have provided the best care possible. It just isn’t fair!

You may have had to have your dog put down due to a serious illness. This is perhaps the most gut wrenching part of all.

As stated in another section of this manual people are well intended, and want to support you through this difficult time in your life. Friends, associates, and acquaintances don’t know what to say to you, and more importantly how to say it. I can site some very specific examples through my many years of experiences to emphasize this point.

I have had a number of dogs over the years! In 1985 I retired a wonderful male golden retriever named Buster. He had been my loyal guide and friend for 8 years. One day I noticed that his body shape was beginning to change, he became much thinner around his hind quarters, and that he was extremely lethargic at age 10. I verbalized to my vet that I had noticed that he appeared to be drinking much more water than usual. After an examination and blood work the vet discovered that he had liver disease. I was heartbroken. I had a very stressful job, was not in good health, and just didn’t feel that I had the time or emotional and physical strength to go away for training with a new dog. My dog was given a high dosage of antibiotics, but I didn’t notice any improvement. So I had to let go of my own agenda and do what was best for him. I contacted my school and was assigned to the next class only a couple of weeks later. Some very close friends offered to take the dog to live with them which made everything so much better! I knew he was in very good hands. The dog loved my friends, could sense my closeness to them, and was comfortable at their farm house. He had met their animals and their acceptance of each other was mutual. So I left and went to get my new companion and guide. It was painful, but I made it through, and I could call and ask about Buster my previous dog any time I wanted. My friends were so kind and compassionate toward me. They did not talk about Buster unless I asked. They completely respected my need to grieve privately.

One day after we got home from our training my new golden retriever Milo and I were walking in our neighborhood. A person who lived in the neighborhood had seen Buster and I out walking many times. They saw me with my new dog, it was easier to pick him out. Although both dogs were goldens, Milo was lighter in color and much larger. They wanted to know where my previous dog was, and I explained about the liver disease. Instead of oh I’m sorry, or a similar condolence I heard “Well, was the dog an alcoholic?” I was so hurt and as the person walked away, I couldn’t compose myself and began to weep uncontrollably. I let go of a great deal of my grief that day, but oh my, it was so painful!

The experience I am about to describe is perhaps the most traumatic guide dog experience of my life! I believe this was in 1994. I returned to the school for my newest dog! I was very surprised to receive a beautiful 75-pound German shepherd named Kermit. Kermit did not have the typical shepherd characteristics. He was calm, mellow, and just content to be with me. We bonded quickly, and only had a few very minor problems as a team during training. We returned home, I went back to work, and all was going well. After being home with Kermit for only one week everything drastically changed! It was Saturday morning, and I was extremely grateful for a day off! I had gotten up early to give Kermit his first park time of the day! He had some water, and we went back to bed to get caught up on our rest. I hadn’t yet recovered from training, and was even more exhausted as a result of a stressful week at work. Around 10 AM, I was awakened by Kermit whining, and thrashing around. He was on his tie down chain, and it sounded as though he was throwing himself against the wall. I knew the horrors of this thrashing because I had years before had a dog who developed epileptic seizures. I was hysterical, and called a good friend. She offered to rush us to my vet’s office. Kermit had another seizure on the way. My vet was supportive. He asked me some very specific questions about Kermit’s health history. Had he been exposed to lead or antifreeze? Of course my immediate response was no! We assumed that it must then be epilepsy. Was I really awake? This really couldn’t be happening, not to my beloved angel Kermit! So the vet gave Kermit a sedative, and he was carried to the car, and we went home. He slept and slept. When he finally awoke that evening he seemed to be depressed and confused. He whined and paced the floor for hours. No matter what I did, I couldn’t calm him down. The next day the seizures started all over again, and I believe he had 3 of them. I was single, alone and terrified. My parents were far away, but called me every hour that day just to provide some support.

The next day I returned to the vet with Kermit and left him there. The result of the blood work came back positive for lead poisoning! I was absolutely stunned! I asked the health department to come to my home to test the paint for the presence of lead. They found a very small spot of lead based paint that remained on the kitchen wall. It was a freak accident! Apparently Kermit was attracted to the sweet taste of the lead. My vet said that it would only take a trace to cause his illness.

Meanwhile Kermit was treated for lead poisoning, and I was able to bring him home a week later. He was frisky and happy and we were able to resume what I thought to be a normal life. Approximately 1 month later the seizures returned with a vengeance, and once again the vet administered the treatments. Again Kermit came home and all was well, but not for long. I had my precious shepherd for only 3 months! He was a brave little guy, but lost the battle. The seizures continued and his kidneys failed as a result of the treatments. He passed away at the vet’s office. I was in shock, I screamed, yelled, and mourned. It was so hard to get up and go to work! I was employed at the time at a rehab facility for blind adults as a counselor. I had to be strong during the day to help the trainees that were assigned to me, and at home each night I grieved and cried. I even found it necessary to seek the assistance of a therapist for a few weeks. To be perfectly honest I’m not so sure I have ever gotten over that experience with Kermit.

I believe that any graduate who has had several dogs will tell you, that there will always be one dog, and one experience that will be more difficult than any other to work through and to overcome. Time does help, and a new dog will lessen the pain, but some experiences will stick with you forever!

When you are in the throes of grief, and you receive your new guide, you may have a very hard time bonding with the new dog. You know that the dog does not care about you and that it wants to be with its trainer. Whether a graduate student chooses to admit it or not, at the time the feeling is mutual. You in turn are hurting, because you are reeling in the memories of your old beloved friend and partner. You think life will never be normal again, and no dog will ever be like your favorite one who worked so well, and served you so faithfully for so long!

I can remember when guide dog schools did not seem to acknowledge the grief that a student must suffer when a dog is retired. The approach was one that implied that one needs to just get over it. Just move on and forget it! It just isn’t that simple! However, in recent years schools have become more sensitive to the needs and feelings of their graduates with regard to the grief process. In fact some schools offer a grief or transition lecture for graduate students prior to the receipt of their new dogs. The session is usually conducted by an instructor or other staff member who is particularly sensitive to these needs. This session is confidential in nature, and first-time students are not allowed to attend. It is often during this session that graduates in the class begin to develop a very close bond and consequently begin to trust each other.

It is a time to share stories, laugh, cry, hug and just to do whatever students need to do in order to move forward. This does not mean that these graduates will not have additional hard times during the remainder of the class. All students with their new dogs have good and bad days, but graduates seem to struggle more and to be affected more intensely. , because on the bad days once again those memories of the previous guide may return stirring up feelings of frustration, anger and sadness. It may take a graduate a good 6 months or perhaps even longer to develop the deep bonding that they may have felt with a previous guide dog. It is not time bound, just as no other type of grief will end according to a set amount of time. There are no set rules for this traumatic emotional time. Each person is different, and will work through the process in his own way. No matter how long it takes it is all right, and feelings of sweetness, joy, and peace will come at some point!

I cannot give any specific recommendations with reference to how long to wait before getting a new guide dog after you have lost a precious one. For some it is best to plunge right in there, and to get into a class as soon as possible. Others need a few months to grieve and to recover before they are ready to move on with a new dog. I have done it both ways, and have personally found that a little time to regroup has been extremely helpful. I believe that this approach to training will enhance success with a new dog. No matter which approach is chosen by the graduate it is never easy. Just ask God for guidance, and/or seek Professional help if you need it. Sometimes it helps to talk to family or friends, or your minister, but remember as I have mentioned that people will sometimes say things that will upset you more, but again it is not their intent to hurt you. They are probably as uncomfortable with the situation as you are, and are just trying to help in their own awkward way.

It is important that you know yourself, your emotional makeup and your ability to handle insensitive comments. If you know that certain people will make light of your feelings, or might say something that will make you feel worse, try to avoid those persons, or stay away from discussing your decision about retiring your dog. You have the right to politely state that you just don’t feel like talking about it. Most people will certainly respect your feelings and wishes.

If you are a person who needs to retreat for a few days weeks, or even a few months from your regular activities please by all means do so. If it is just too painful for you to go to familiar places that you and your dog traveled to together than don’t go there. People will be constantly asking where your dog is, and this can be just simply too much to bear. No one has the right to judge you for your decision to stay away. Your feelings with regard to this deserve to be respected, and please don’t appease other people during this tragic time in your life.

Some people may feel that you are over reacting, or that your retreat is unhealthy. The only people who will have walked in your shoes are other guide dog graduates. Even so all graduates are individuals, and react to and cope with grief in their own ways. Just do whatever you have to do to grieve, survive and then move on.

A person may say to you that they empathize because they have lost a pet. If someone loses a pet their feelings need to be acknowledged. However, in my opinion a pet can in no way compare to the pain of losing a guide dog. You have not only loved your dog, but you have depended on your dog as your means of travel and independence. Your dog may have even literally saved your life more than once. Your dog has been an extension of you!

Guide dog schools and their instructors deserve our utmost respect, appreciation and admiration, but even they cannot identify with an/or comprehend our loss and pain. Yes, they have tirelessly devoted themselves to training these wonderful animals and their work, they have not had the day-to-day experiences that guide dog users have had with the dogs. It is only another graduate who has loved and depended on his beloved guide and partner who can readily identify with us.

Summary:

In conclusion, this book was written to assist blind and visually impaired adults in making a realistic, quality decision about their travel. I have made an attempt to provide education with regard to guide dogs presenting both advantages and disadvantages of owning and caring for a guide dog. It has been my intent to bring to light guide dog issues from a very personal graduate student prospective. After reading this manual if your opinions are different from mine, that is certainly your prerogative. I have only intended to provide tips using a common sense approach to current and prospective guide dog users based on my experience and training. I hope that this book will be beneficial to rehab professionals, civic groups and organizations, and to the general public as well. As stated, this is not an endorsement of any particular school.

Obtaining a guide dog is a decision that needs to be taken very seriously. It requires prayer, deliberate contemplation, along with extensive research of the various guide dog facilities and their offerings.

I, Shelley McMullen, am passionate about guide dog issues and it is my hope to be able to provide coaching and assistance to guide dog user, not only in my profession, but on a very personal level as well.

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