PUPPY / BASIC – WEEK 2



[pic] COME

COME = COME TO ME AND SIT DIRECTLY IN FRONT OF ME

(HOW TO GET A SOLID RECALL)

GOAL: With one call, your dog runs to you, past minor distractions, sits directly in front of you, close enough to snap on a leash.

EXPLANATION: Some dogs have learned a poor association with the word COME.

It is common to see someone say COME at the dog park, repeat the command over and over, get very frustrated, maybe even chase the dog and when they finally catch the dog, they yell at him. All the dog learns from this experience is he gets punished after he hears the word COME and the owner is very mad.

Come is not a substitution for a leash or a fenced yard, but is an exercise that could save your dog’s life. IT’S IMPORTANT TO MOTIVATE YOUR DOG TO WANT TO COME TO YOU. Chances are he has figured out that you are in no position to make him come unless he’s on leash. Threats won’t work.

NAME IT: The COME command should always be associated with something good. Use high value rewards or treats your dog only gets while training this behavior. Even if your dog does not come to you right away - when the dog does come to you, praise him TONS.

COME SHOULD ONLY BE USED FOR A RECALL.

Don’t dilute it by using it for anything else. For in the house, or inviting the dog on the

couch or bed, say CMON or CMHERE.

SAY COME ONLY ONCE. If you get in the habit of repeating the command, the word COME loses meaning and becomes optional.

SAY COME ONLY WHEN YOU ARE PREPARED TO REINFORCE HEAVILY.

SAY COME ONLY WHEN YOU ARE 100% SURE THE DOG WILL COME TO YOU. (Are you willing to bet $500 that your dog will actually come to you? If not, do NOT use the word. If you do, you will begin to poison the cue.)

SAY COME ONLY WHEN YOU CAN MANAGE THE BEHAVIOR (make sure you use a long line – that’s your portable fence).

MAKE SURE THE DOG COMES WITHIN A FEW INCHES.

[pic] COME

PRACTICE EXERCISES:

All of the following exercises assume you are indoors, in a fenced area outside or using a leash OR long line.

THE GOTCHA EXERCISE

This is to condition your dog to anticipate good things when you grab his collar. Some dogs tend to shy away when you grab for them, knowing that something good ends.

Several different times a day, when your dog is up and about, grab his collar and give him a “YES!”/Treat. No name, no word COME. Do it slowly, do it quickly, do it while you are walking, etc. Do it in lots of situations.

Once in a while, grab the collar, put the leash on and give the “YES!”/Treat, but take the leash right off again. This teaches the dog not to duck or play “keep away” when someone wants to put a leash on him. Take every opportunity to make collar grabs a good thing. Don’t use the word COME.

FOOD BOWL COME

By now, you are probably using a great deal of your dog’s food for hand feeding to establish a bond. You may also be putting food in toys as enrichment and using food as training treats. Use your remaining food for twice daily feedings. As you prepare his food bowl, your dog will probably be right there with you, having heard all the cues that means food is coming: opening cubboard, bag rattling, can opener, etc. Even if he is right there by your feet when you’re ready to put the food bowl down, quickly step backwards a few paces and say, “COME” as he reaches you and the bowl. Then, stand still and say “YES!” and give him the food bowl. Sometimes say his name first and then say COME.

SURPRISE – CONTROLLED COMES ON LEASH

Most dogs cannot resist investigating when you quickly move away. While on a walk, at a point when your dog seems least engaged in the environment, stop suddenly. Become dramatic and make some sort of explanation like “WOW!” and either back up quickly or turn around and run away for a few feet. Your dog will wonder what’s up and will turn to see, perhaps even begin to run up to you. When you see that he is highly motivated and moving toward you, call the dog’s name, say “COME!” and pull something wonderful out of your pocket or play a tuggy game.

[pic] COME

TAKE IT ON LOCATION

Same exercise as above, only now find new and interesting places to practice.

KEEP HIM GUESSING

Coming to you shouldn’t be boring. Keep your dog guessing as to what will happen the next time he gets to you. At times you should touch his collar. Sometimes put on the leash and then immediately take it off. (This way he will learn that coming when called and the presence of the leash won’t always mean the end of a good time.)

MY HUMAN DOES MAGIC

Before you go on a walk, hide something great in your jacket or sneak out without your dog and hide something in a tree or on a fence. Periodically call your dog for a game or for a treat. This helps you maintain appeal even with new and interesting things to explore.

REAL-LIFE DISTRACTIONS

If you train alone, you are tempted to leave your dog in a SIT/STAY, then walk way and call her to you. In real life, you rarely call a dog from a Sit. Have a friend hold your dog by the collar and talk or play with him. Then call your dog.

COME AND RELEASE TO TREAT

Have a handful of goodies. Call your dog to you. Give a treat. Release him and throw a treat several yards away. When he eats it, call him to you. Give a treat. Release again and throw a treat in the other direction. Now be random. Sometimes there is no treat when he runs up to you, but you’ll throw one for him to go get. Sometimes ask him to sit before you throw a treat. Sometimes touch his collar before you treat.

IGNORING THE DISTRACTIONS

Your helper has something great on a leash – a toy, a ball, and bounces or wiggles it on the floor near the dog’s path to you. If the dog pays attention to the distraction, it’s retracted quickly by your helper. Out comes something even better from your pocket. Play with the dog when he gets to you, or have your helper toss YOU the toy.

[pic] COME

STRATEGIES FOR EMERGENCIES

Train a positive COME with high value, but random rewards. Practice good management with leashes and fences. What if the dog gets loose accidentally? In an emergency, run away from him, he will think he’s missing something! Be dramatic and convincing and he might follow to see what’s going on. Try opening a car door. If your dog loves to ride, he might come over and hop right in. Pretend there is something good on the ground.

Here’s a great game for teaching EMERGENCY RECALL:

Fill a tin can with dry dog treats / cookies.

Step 1: Yell COOKIES!

Step 2: Shake the tin can

Step 3: Drop a handful of SUPER HIGH VALUE TREATS on the ground in front of your feet and walk away. Practice sometimes walking away and sometimes gently grabbing his collar and giving him more fantastic morsels.

Repeat several times a day in different rooms of the house. Gradually move the exercise outdoors (fenced in area first).

When you are ready, test it! Yell COOKIES! And see if your dog comes running. If he does, BINGO! You have an emergency recall.

PUPPY PING PONG – Have one person on each side of the room. Each person has a variety of high value treats or a favorite toy that the dog loves. Say the dog’s name, then say the cue COME. When the dog arrives and places his butt on the floor, click and treat. If the dog gets distracted half way to you and checks out something else in the room, check the distance you are working with the dog. For example, if you and the other person in the room are 10 feet apart, decrease the distance to 5 feet and try the exercise again. Remember, always set your dog up for success. In order to do that, you must manage and control the exercises.

FLYING FRONTS

In order to practice recalls for the real world and also a nice straight front you must start by getting your dog to go away from you so you can call him back.

Toss treat a few feet away. Tell the dog to “GET IT!” Run away fast!

Hopefully, the dog will chase you. As he is on his way, say COME, (not while he is eating the treat). When he gets to you, C&T (or say yes! and treat). Give several treats to the dog in succession. Next, start throwing the treats farther away from you.

When you have at least five to ten feet between the two of you, show your dog the “right” picture as he is racing toward you – standing up straight, legs together, arms down at your side. At the last minute, spread your legs and toss the treat between them so that he races through them. If you have thrown your treat far enough between your legs, you can then just turn, face your dog again, show him the right picture and repeat the process. Once you have done this a dozen times, pull a switch and don’t spread your legs. Reward.

HIDE AND SEEK

Hide in the house. When your dog finds you act like he just won Westminster! Make the game easy at first and gradually hide in harder to find spots.

[pic] COME

HOT POTATO

Either inside or in an enclosed area, run away from your dog. The object of the game – don’t let your dog touch you. If the dog touches the hot potato (YOU) he wins.

HELPFUL HINTS:

Be aware of your posture when calling your dog. Don’t bend over or stretch your hands out to your dog. (You may stoop down for a small or shy dog.)

Different cues for different situations. Decide what COME really means and stick to it.

If your dog is ignoring the old word COME, choose a new word like HERE.

No more bad associations. Don’t call your dog away from fun. Don’t call him and punish him. If need be, go get the dog, but don’t call him to you. Don’t abuse the word by expecting results before the dog is trustworthy.

Make it a habit of calling your dog from a variety of situations, not just when he’s in the trash or about to mug a child for his ice cream cone.

Here’s a great article on Choosing to Come from



Jamie Bozzi, CBCC-KA, CPDT-KA, KPA CTP, ACDBC, CNWI, CC

Professional Dog Trainer and Canine Behavior Consultant

Smrtdog Behavior & Training

AKC CGC / STAR Puppy Licensed Evaluator / Tag Teach Certified

Jamie@ 619.246.5634

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