Amnesty International



Introduction to Photography These course notes are designed to accompany the Introduction to Photography course run by the Audio Visual Studio team at the International Secretariat.The notes should give a reminder of what is covered in the course: from what the buttons on the camera do; to how to take portraits; to uploading the photographs you've taken to ADAM.These course notes only refer to digital cameras, because realistically Amnesty International staff will only be using digital cameras in the course of their work.So they refer to sensors rather than film, and ISO rather than film speed, but the techniques and instructions for digital cameras equally apply to film cameras, should you happen to use one.Why photography?It is important from the outset to look at why you are taking a camera with you? What is the main purpose of collecting photography??While the content of an Amnesty International report/briefing/press release is the intellectually important output of a mission, AV will complement and support it and hopefully increase its distribution possibilities.The answer to the question; Why photograph? Is very obvious in relation to the work you are doing - you wish to document the issue you are working on - illustrate written material be that testimony from subjects interviewed or the general context of an area of concern you are investigating. However it is also important to look at the wider picture, how else could the images you collect be used? The pictures you take could become very relevant in the future if the political situation changes in a region or country you visit.Outlined below are the main areas where Amnesty International uses photography:1, Internal:?Printed report / campaigning materials (providing individual consent obtained) / web story page, galley page / social media - Facebook, Instagram, Tumblr, Twitter / Wire magazine / general use by amnesty to promote organisations work / regional and country specific images used for contextual illustrations.2, External:?Press in connection to report launch / wider issues relating to focus of mission. Other NGO’s wishing to illustrate relevant issues.Although you have primary objectives in the work you are undertaking it is important to consider additional uses for the images you take. The access Amnesty staff / researchers often have is quite unique providing an opportunity to gather images which are not easily obtainable through agencies or freelance photographers.?What makes a good photograph?Think of the primary focus of your work - the key individuals, locations and supporting material which has significance to the issue you are writing about. Make a check list of this just to help you remember - think of interesting ways to document these people/places/things.Context is very important in this regard ensuring that the key element to the image is clearly situated - the background of a shot can help inform the narrative of the image / provide greater insight to the viewer / aesthetically make a viewer want to look further - to read the image.e.g. Think of asking a subject to stand against a background which can in some way inform the story further, add greater significance.If permitted take a variety of contextual exterior and interior shots of a persons home / place of work etc. - look for significant details which again relate to the wider issue you are writing about - a series of images can be used in an interesting way to both illustrate a case study or work as a visual narrative on their own.Some ideas about content you should considerEvidence of HR abuses (e.g. injuries from torture, prison conditions) and their consequences (e.g. refugee camps), portraits of people who have given important testimonyAmnesty work in the field (e.g. taking testimony, meeting key contacts)Work on the ground by sections, local NGOs and human rights defenders?Areas and places where HR abuses happened (e.g. outside shots of prisons, destruction of villages)It is difficult to capture HR abuses – but you can document people, scenes and consequencesAllocating time & effort.Being an Amnesty International “subject specialist” on mission but also having to produce AV material can easily become an irritation, unless you allocate sufficient time and effort……..and accept the importance of distributing your output. A person you are interviewing/profiling will most often have more time available then you do along with a “victim’s” psychological need to tell their story. Deciding to take pictures before and/or during and/or after interviewing people is a case-by-case decision that usually can’t be made before you meet the individual. Additional influential factors might be: Working through a translator.Emotions; fear, anger, grief, etc.Confidentiality.You are the only person who can evaluate all these factors and make the decision as to how best to cover all aspects of your assignment. It won’t always be the “perfect” decision but usually a compromise….so don’t beat yourself up about it afterwards!!! Experience isn’t based upon perfect performance every time but upon a self-critical evaluation of “what could have been done better….next time”!A Practical Checklist for Conducting Photography on MissionBefore you goOnce the mission itinerary has been decided you can begin to compile a list of objectives for capturing stills and possible photo opportunities. The AV team would be happy to discuss any ideas and issues with you as well as provide further advice on taking photographs and delivering them to the movement. ?If at the IS, meet with AV to organise camera loan, equipment and training.Make sure you have copies of the Subject Release form (along with the ‘How to use’ guide) in the relevant language. They are available in core and some non core languages. Please consult with AV and allow enough time to get a translation if needed.Read the ‘How to take photos of vulnerable or at risk subjects’ guide.Make sure you have access to all areas and persons necessary to get the photos you need.Check your Kit - once camera kit has been obtain make sure of the following:Your camera is working and you have it on the relevant settings (L - Largest files size).?Ensure that you have enough memory cards, it is always useful to have minimum 2 cards to allow for technical failure / security issues / loss.Your battery is charged and you have relevant charger and leads - as above its often useful to have a backup battery.During the missionMake assessments of what needs to be documented and what will be of most use (e.g. for media, reports, web actions).Take multiple photographs of main events/characters to ensure a good photo.With portraits, get in close and try to capture the subject in a flattering pose. Use the ‘How to take photos of vulnerable or at risk subjects’ guidelines if necessary.With action, look for establishing shots, close-ups, materials (banners, posters, costumes, etc) reactions, angles, perspectives.With landscapes, keep the horizon straight and identify the main point of focus.Document all relevant information particularly names and places, insuring correct spelling.?When possible (e.g. at the end of each day) download the images you have shot and back up on a laptop, make sure notes / captions are easily associated with the correlating image.If working in an environment with potential security risks, ensure that all images are stored safely and all risks of images shot are not left on a card in the camera on consecutive days, be mindful of having camera taken / confiscated and what risks this may pose to the individuals you have photographed previouslyAfter the missionMake a selection (be ruthless). Less is more! Do not duplicate shots, just choose the best form a seriesThe AV team can help with this, but it is important you get into the habit of editing your own photos.Conduct any necessary postproduction - lightening, cropping, blurring faces of individuals who’s identity needs to be protected - for advice on this please contact the AV team.?Upload images to ADAM in there highest quality possible, being sure to include all relevant caption information: who, what, when, where. Add relevant keywords. The detail you can provide the more useful the image becomes.KNOW YOUR CAMERAIn order to take good photographs you should know how your camera works, not necessarily in great technical detail, but knowing even the basics will improve your chances of taking a good photograph.On your camera find the following:On/off button - switch the camera onShutter release button - pressing this to take a photo, and on most automatic cameras will auto focus and auto expose as well.Zoom - use this change the focal length of the camera, switch often found around the shutter release, or on the back of the camera, marked W and T for wide angle and telephotoFlash button - find the button that turns the flash off and on.Macro button - find the button that puts the camera into macro (close up focus) modeReview button/dial - find the button that shows you the photographs you have takenISO - find how to change the ISO (sensitivity of the camera image sensor to light)Exposure compensation - find out where you can increase or decrease the exposureMode dial/button - this changes the shooting mode of the camera; most of the time Auto or Scene Recognition Auto will sufficeDigital out - USB socket on most cameras, you will plug a cable in here in order to download imagesBattery - you will need to take this out in order to charge itMemory card - you may need to replace the card if you fill it with images, or you may download the images from the card using a card reader, or you may want to keep the card separately from the camera for security reasonsCamera set-upThe digital cameras that the AV team send on missions are already set-up, do not reduce the image size.If you are using your own camera set the camera to take the largest images it can, at high or fine quality.The date and time of the camera should be set to today's date. This is important because any images you take will have this date recorded in their metadata, and allows us to know exactly when the image was taken.File numbering should be set to 'Continuous'BASICS THAT YOU NEED TO BE ABLE TO DO BEFORE YOU TAKE A CAMERA ON MISSION:KNOW WHAT THE SYMBOLS ON THE SCREEN MEANThe screen displays useful information it tells you:- the number of shots remaining- how much battery charge remains- whether the flash is on or off- camera shake warning - shown in low light to warn you that shaky blurred images may result from slow shutter speed- which focus mode you are in eg. normal vs macro (close up) vs Infinity - if the camera has focused on the subject.- what type of scene the camera has selected (when set to auto scene recognition mode)KNOW HOW TO HOLD THE CAMERAFor stability hold the camera in two hands and with your upper arms against the front of your body.On many of the compact cameras it is easy to cover the flash with your fingers, be aware of this when holding the camera.Be aware of shutter lag - time between fully pressing the shutter release button and the camera taking the photograph, most of the lag is due to the time it takes the camera to focus and flash charge time will also contribute.You need to hold the camera still after you have pressed the shutter release until it has taken the picture - otherwise you may move the camera before it has finished the exposure.You also need to hold the camera still if you are using slow synchro flash - see below - because the shutter will remain open for some time after the flash has fired.KNOW HOW TO AUTO FOCUS THE CAMERA AND HOW TO REVIEW THE IMAGESFIRST - gently press and hold the shutter release button until the camera focuses on the subject.On the Canon G16 you will see that the focus rectangle goes green (bleeps twice) or finds the face of your subjectPlease note: Some cameras will take a photograph - even if the subject is not in focus - if you press heavily on the shutter release button without waiting for the camera to focus. Instead you should gently half press the shutter release, give the camera time to focus, and then press it all the way.Most of at Amnesty International's cameras either have the focus area set to the centre of the frame or are set to face recognition.If the camera will not focus on the subject: either the camera cannot find focus or you are too close to the subject.SECOND - review any images you take in order to confirm that they are in focus: review the image, and then zoom in to an important detail, for example a face, and check that it is in focus not blurred.What to do if the camera cannot find focus: - Change the camera to program mode so that the focus area is in the centre of the frame, put this focus area over your subject and half press the shutter release button to focus the camera, then either take your photograph, or, keeping the shutter release half pressed recompose the image and then fully press the button when you are satisfied with the composition. (see below for an explanation on how to recompose a photograph)- Move the camera so that a 'hard edge' is inside the focusing area, cameras find it easier to focus on hard edges, then recompose.Camera autofocus can fail especially in the following circumstances:- Very low contrast subjects - for example: clear blue sky or solid colour walls- Subjects in very low light - for example a gloomy interior- Backlit or reflective subjects- Near and far subjects together in AF point - for example: a person behind a fine mesh grill- You are too close to the subject - if the subject is small, such as a family photograph or a bullet, switch the camera into macro (close-up) mode this will allow the camera to focus close up. Some cameras will do this automatically if they have an Auto scene select mode - a tulip will appear on the screen.- The lens is zoomed in - generally if you are zoomed in you cannot focus as close as when the lens is wide, this is also the case when the camera is in macro mode.KNOW HOW TO TAKE A PORTRAITAgain think about the outputs what kind of photographs does Amnesty International need to its membership magazines or for reports?FRAMINGSimple headshot / head and shouldersA tightly composed photograph the collar bone at the bottom of the frame and the top of the head at the topEnvironmental full length portraitWhat is interesting or distinctive about the subject's surroundings? Can you show where they are from?LIGHTINGHow is your subject lit?You could take the photograph in open shade - for example beside a low building or in the shade of a tree with open sky above - rather than in full sun.There are some advantages in using open shade: the light is soft, so no hard shadows - whereas if you take the photograph under high sun the eyes will be hidden in the shadows cast by the brow.If you are in sunlight - position the subject so that their face is lit from the side so that they aren't squinting into the sun - you might want to use flash to fill in the shadows.Move around a subject, take photos, noting where the light is on their face - try different angles.Use the zoom and flash for dark indoors situationsIf the subject is in a really bad position where there is no light, if possible ask them to move.Even if they just move close to a window the chances of you taking a good photograph are greatly improved.How is the subject lit in relation to the rest of the composition?One way to create more interesting images is to alternate light and dark tones - For example arrange the composition so that the lighter side of your subjects face is against a darker area of the background and the darker side of their head is against a lighter part.Do you need to move?If you have engaged with the subject, they will move to face you if you move.Use this to adjust the subject's position so they are well lit.DesignAre there interesting objects or structural elements that you are going to include in the photo? For example have them hold a photograph of a family member who has disappeared.Or frame your subject in a window, doorway, or another frame.Subject's poseHow are you going to position your subject?Trying different angles to make a more interesting photograph and to make your subject look better.Change the angle of the subject's face to the camera, additionally take some with their eyes looking at camera and others where they look awayFacial expressionSmiling, neutral or serious?It is good to have a choice of different photos.Remember that if you use wide angle close up this will distort the appearance of the subject's face - making their nose appear largerStep back a little and use the zoom for more natural looking portraits.Things to watch out for Very bright light sources in the frame (eg the sun behind your subject) or objects sticking out of your subject's head.If a very bright light source impinges on the frame an underexposed subject may result.Get subject releaseWhen taking photographs of individuals or groups of people you must make every effort to obtain their consent before these photographs are used in Amnesty International campaigns, actions or materials.To facilitate this Amnesty International staff or commissioned photographers must use a 'Subject Release Form' when they take photographs of individuals on missions.Concealing identityYou should also take unidentifiable photographs of subjects in case you subsequently decide that publishing an identifiable photograph will endanger them; you will not be able to do this if you only have a smiling portrait of them.KNOW HOW TO COPY A PHOTOGRAPH USING MACRO MODESwitch the camera into macro (close-up) mode - a tulip will appear on screen - this will allow the camera to focus close up.(Some cameras will do this automatically if they have an Auto scene select mode.)Put the photograph on a flat surface, close to a soft light sourceRest your elbows and/or forearms on the flat surface - this will enable you to hold the camera steadyHold the camera level - the photograph should appear square on the screenRemember you might need to switch the flash off - some cameras will do this automatically or will reduce the brightness of the flash - and watch out for reflections on a shiney photographKNOW HOW TO FOCUS AND RECOMPOSEPut the subject of the photograph in the focus areaHalf press the shutter release button to focus the cameraKeep the shutter release half pressed and recompose the photograph - rotate left/right/up, do not move backwards or forwards - with the subject to the side or bottom of the frameThis will allow you to make more interesting compositions rather than always having the subject in the centre of the image.KNOW HOW TO CORRECTLY EXPOSE YOUR SUBJECTCorrect exposure - What does this mean? Essentially this is subjective, but you could say that an image is correctly exposed if you can see all of the information that you want to show.On most cameras pressing the shutter release button makes it auto expose: that is calculate the amount of light in the scene and expose the sensor accordingly; which it does this by setting the shutter speed, aperture and ISO.Because of the way that cameras judge exposure, a light subject on a light background may be underexposed, whereas the same light subject on a dark background may be overexposed.Real world examples:A person's face lit only by the candle they are holding on a black background - most cameras will overexpose the persons faceOr if your subject has a bright light source behind them in frame - the sun, bright sky, flash reflected in a shiny object - then this may lead to the subject being underexposedUsing flash:For back lit subjects you can use fill flash(In Auto mode set flash to be on always)If you have used flash and your photograph is still too dark there are a couple of reasons why this might be the case:- Distance: the flash on a compact cameras is not very powerful so if the subjects are a long way from the camera only a little bit of flash will reach them - for example the way that light spreads out from the camera if you double the distance you quadruple the area, consequently for the same flash power the subject to receive 1/4 of the illumination.- Auto exposure: there is a object close to the camera which is strongly lit by the flash causing the camera to underexpose your subject which is further from the camera.- Reflection: there is a reflective object in frame - a mirror, framed photograph etc - that has bounced the flash back at the camera this again makes the camera underexpose the rest of the image.KNOW HOW TO TAKE PHOTOGRAPHS IN LOW LIGHTTaking good photographs at night or in low can be difficult, but there are a number of things you can do that will help you take better photographs.In low light conditions digital SLR camera will take better quality images because it has a larger sensor, you might want to consider one if you are going to primarily be taking photographs in dark places like a prison or at an Amnesty International night time event.Use wide angle - If you are using a compact digital camera or cheap DSLR zoom lens: set the lens to wide angle - rather than telephotograph (zoomed in).At wide angle these lenses can be set to a larger aperture, a larger aperture lets more light in to the camera, consequently your exposure time will be shorter and it is less likely your photographs will be blurred by camera shake. (Also camera shake is less visible when the lens is set to wide angle rather than telephoto.)Remember to get in close and ensure that the subject of the photograph is in focus.Use high ISO - ISO tells you how sensitive the camera's sensor is to light, the higher the number the more sensitive the sensor, and therefore your exposure time will be shorter.Press the ISO button and change the ISO setting on the camera to High or 1600+Remember as you increase the ISO digital noise increases, this is especially the case on compact digital cameras so if you use their highest ISO it is likely that the picture quality will be low: you will loose details in peoples faces and colour.Use flash - remember objects close to the camera will be well lit everything else will be dark.Use slow synchro flash - the shutter stays open for a long time so that you get background detail, but the flash also fires, illuminating nearby objects.If you use normal flash only the objects close to the camera will be well lit everything else will be dark.Use long exposure - for example by setting the shutter speed to 4 or 8 seconds anything that moves will be blurred.You will need to rest the camera on something or use a tripod if you want a steady clear shot.On a compact camera you might need to use the fireworks scene mode to be able to access long exposure.You might use this for a torch lit procession or for projections onto the side of a buildingUse scene modes - If you are using a compact camera you will probably get better results if you use one of the scene modes.For example: night portrait, night scene, candle light, low light etc.The specific properties of these differ from camera to cameraUse a larger aperture - If you have a camera that allows you to set the aperture, set it at f2 (larger apertures have lower f numbers)KNOW HOW TO TAKE A PHOTOGRAPH OF A MOVING OBJECTOr how to take a photograph of a prison from a moving car.If you want to freeze the motion of a moving object in a photograph you either need to increase the shutter speed to above 1/500 or pan to compensate for its movement.There are a few solutions - first set the change the camera from single shot to continuous shooting - then:- Fast shutter speed: Set the camera ISO to High+ or 1600 this will increase the sensitivity of the sensor and consequently increase the shutter speed.- Large aperture: on a compact camera set the lens to wide angel so you get the largest aperture - no good if your subject is in the middle distance.- Panning: focus the camera and then turn smoothly to follow the subject (pan) as it goes past, whilst panning fully press the shutter release, continue panningKNOW HOW TO DOWNLOAD PHOTOGRAPHS FROM CAMERAIt is a good idea to back up the photographs you take by copying them on to your mission laptopUsing a usb cable:1. Turn the camera off2. Lift the flap covering the usb socket and plug the smaller end of the cable in(before you go on mission you should check that you have the correct usb cable for your camera, the small end of the cable varies for some cameras)3. Plug the other end of the usb cable in to your laptop4. Turn the camera on - depending on the camera you may need to press the review button or turn the mode dial to review5. The camera's memory card should now appear as a removable drive, open the drive and go down a couple of folder levels until you find the images.6. Copy the images and paste them into a folder on the C drive of your laptop - do not delete or cut and paste this may corrupt the memory card.Using a card reader:1. Take the memory card out of the camera2. Slot the card into the card reader3. Plug the card reader into your laptop usb socket4. The camera's memory card should now appear as a removable drive, open the drive and go down a couple of folder levels until you find the images.5. Copy the images and paste them into a folder on the C drive of your laptop - do not delete or cut and paste this may corrupt the memory card.HANDLING DOWNLOADED IMAGESRetain the original filenames that the camera gives the images.If you do rename the file keep the original filename and add your new name after it, the reason for doing this is to keep the files in the order they were taken and avoids duplication and confusion.Make a wide edit of the images you have taken, it is often convenient to download images from your card/camera at the end of each day, allowing you to order them fro an easy edit. This may also be important for security reasons, ensuring you have the images stored safely.If working in a hostile environment where security concerns are an issue, make sure to make images off a card whenever convenient and wipe the card, protecting against the event of your camera being seized and the images ending up in the hands of authorities which may compromise the safety of subject photographed. KNOW HOW TO CAPTION IMAGESTake relevant notes which will relate to images shot , captions can be added to the image metadata using programmes such as Adobe Bridge, lightroom, Irfanview or Aperture. Alternatively captions can be added in ADAM – and this information along with usage agreements and consent documentation can be recorded and stored with the asset file, ADAM also automatically embeds caption information in the metadata of the image.Guide to writing image captions – the 5 Ws:Image descriptions (captions) are written in the present tense, and consist of a single sentence, although a second sentence can be added to give additional contextual information if required. When you are writing image descriptions for ADAM remember the 5 Ws: Who, What, Where, When and Why Who is in the photo? Always include first and last name of the subjects, and titles are useful too. What does the photo depict? A demonstration, a football match, or a press conference? What is the subject doing at the event? This must be written in present tense, as if you are there describing the event as it happens. Where was the photo taken? Give the city, state and country, and more specific information like opposite the Japanese embassy. When was it taken? Day, month, year. This should be written: 10 December 2009 Why is the photo relevant to Amnesty International? A picture of a police station means nothing on its own, but if PoCs are tortured there then it is relevant to AI, but you must explain this in the caption. This background information should come after the date the photo was taken.,KNOW HOW TO UPLOAD PHOTOGRAPHS TO YOUR COLLECTION ON ADAMIf you are on mission and you have taken important photographs that you want to share with the movement immediately you should upload them to your collection on ADAM - Amnesty's audiovisual database. Or if you fear that the photographs might be seized by the authorities you can upload them to ADAM and delete them from your laptop.Here is a step by step guide to uploading images to your Collection.If at all possible upload the original images that you downloaded from the cameraIf these images are too large for your internet connection speed resize the images, in the same way that you do when you email them, and upload these.Uploading Images:1. Login to ADAM2. Click on 'Add Assets' - in the menu on the left3. To upload one image click on 'Add Asset'i) Click on 'Choose File' buttonii) In the popup window find the file you want to upload, click on it and click on 'Open'iii) Then click on the black 'Upload' buttoniv) Wait for the file to uploadv) On the new page that opens add information about the image (metadata) to the boxes, the ones you must complete have an * next to them.The grey circles with the ? marks explain what information is needed.vi) Finally click on the 'Submit' buttonor3. To upload more than one image click on 'Bulk Upload'i) Then click on 'Start a new data import'ii) Click on 'Upload files' buttoniii) In the popup window find the files you want to upload, click on them and click on 'Open'If you need to add more files, or if the upload stops, you can click on the 'Upload files' button more than onceIf upload stops, click 'Cancel Upload' button and then click on 'Upload files' button and choose the files that failed to upload.iv) Click next - when upload has finishedv) On the new page that opens information about the image (metadata) to the boxes, the ones you must complete have an * next to them.The grey circles with the ? marks explain what information is needed.vi) Finally click on the 'Start Import' button4. When Bulk upload has finished the Import log says 'Finished Import'Editing the records immediately after upload:If you want to edit the records you have just uploaded - you might want to add specific information to some of the images, or you might have forgotten to add something to all of the images - you can do this once ADAM says 'Finished import'.To edit each record individually: click on 'Batch update the last imported batch'Make your changes to each record, clicking 'Save and Continue' as you goorTo edit all of the images at the same time click on 'Bulk update the last imported batch'Then click on 'Run an update on this batch'On the new page that opens click on the dropdown lists next to the boxes you want to editYou can either 'Replace' the old information or add more information using 'Append'When you have finished click 'Start Update'orTo edit one image, click 'View details'Then click the 'Edit' button on the right of the thumbnailMake your edits and then you have finished editing click on 'Save Changes' at the bottom of the record.A PRACTICLE GUIDE TO THE BASIC BUILDING BLOCKS OF PHOTOGRAPHYThis final section takes a quick look at the basic building blocks of photography.f numbers, shutter speed and ISOf numbers: the size of the aperture (hole) that lets light into the cameraShutter speed: the amount of time that the shutter remains open, exposing the sensor to light ISO: the sensitivity of the sensor to lightWhy f numbers?f numbers are the ratio of the diameter of the aperture to the focal length of the lensf number is equal to the focal length of the lens divided by the diameter of the aperture - the higher the f number the smaller the holeSo even though the diameter of the f4 aperture on the telephoto lens may be larger than on the wideangle lens f numbers are standardised: f4 on a wide angle lens will let the same amount of light into the camera as f4 on a telephoto lens.f numbers increase in a regular pattern:f/# 1.0 1.4 2 2.8 4 5.6 8 11 16 22 32 45 64 90 128By changing from f4 to f2.8 you double the area of the aperture and consequently twice the amount of light will pass into the camera.On most digital cameras they increase in 1/2 or 1/3 increments.Relationship between f stops, shutter speed and ISOThe steps in f numbers are reciprocally related to the steps in shutter speed and in ISO What this means is that it is easy to obtain the same exposure a number of different ways.So for example the following will all give the same exposure: f2.8 at 1/1000 at ISO 400 = f4 at 1/500 at ISO 400 ... = f22 at 1/16 at ISO 400 You can see from this sequence that as the f numbers get higher (which means that the size of the aperture gets smaller, letting less light into the camera) the shutter has to stay open for longer in order to let the same amount of light into the camera.Alternatively you can maintain the same shutter speed, but vary the aperture according to your requirements:f2.8 at 1/1000 at ISO 100 = f4 at 1/1000 at ISO 200 ... = f22 at 1/1000 at ISO 3200Why would we want to use different settings?For example a higher shutter speed will allow you to take photographs from a moving vehicle without the image being blurredA lower f number blur the background behind your subjectA higher f number means that subjects close to the camera and those far away will be in focus GLOSSARYAuto exposure - Where the camera calculates what the correct exposure will beAuto focus - Where the camera automatically focuses on the subjectDepth of field - How far infront of and behind the point of focus will appear in focusDoF depends on lens aperture and focal length and a number of different factors:Smaller aperture = greater DOFLarger aperture = shallower DOFSubject distance greater = greater DOFSubject distance smaller = shallower DOFSmaller sensor = greater DOFLarger sensor = shallower DOFWider focal length = greater DOFLonger focal length = shallower DOFSmaller final print = greater DOFLarger final print = shallower DOFFurther viewing distance = greater DOFCloser viewing distance = shallower DOFExposure - The amount of light that falls on the camera sensorf number - f-number is the ratio of the diameter of the aperture to the lens focal length.Focal length - Angle of view; long focal length = narrow angle of view, short focal length = wide angle of viewFocus - An image or subject are in focus if they are sharply definedISO - Measurement of the sensitivity of the camera's sensorLight quality - whether light is hard or soft depends on the size of the light source in relation to the subject: a large source will be soft, a small source hard.Macro - A lens configuration that allows close focusMetering - The measurement of light Open Shade - An area of shade that is open the the shy aboveOverexposed - Where too much light has fallen on the camera's sensor and consequently the subject of the image is not visible Shutter - A mechanism that opens and closes letting light onto the camera sensorShutter lag - time between fully pressing the shutter release button and the camera taking the photographShutter speed - The amount of time that the shutter lets light onto the sensor forStop - a "stop" is a mutipurpose term that is used for a doubling or halving the amount of light reaching the sensor, or doubling or halving the sensitivity of the sensorSubject - a person or objectTelephotograph - A lens with a narrow angle of view; long focal lengthUnderexposed - Where too little light has fallen on the camera's sensor and consequently the subject of the image is not visibleWhite balance - Auto white balance compensates for the the colour of light whereby the camera aims to neutralise the effect of the differing colours of light.For example incandescent light bulbs emit warm red light, so in order to compensate for this the camera's auto white balance will add blue lightBefore digital photography coloured glass filters were placed over the end the lens in order to balance colourWide angle - A lens with a wide angle of view; short focal lengthZoom - A lens that changes focal length20.05.2018 ................
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