CHOICE #81 CARPENTER
CHOICE #81 CARPENTER
STUDENT MANUAL
IINTRODUCTION PART I
AT THIS MODULE YOU WILL HAVE A HANDS-ON CAREER
EXPLORATION EXPERIENCE AS A CARPENTER. YOU
WILL USE SOME OF THE SAME TOOLS AND MATERIALS
AS A CARPENTER TO DO THE FOLLOWING ACTIVITIES:
1. READ AND INTERPRET A BLUEPRINT.
2. MEASURE AND CUT THE STUDS, PLATES, AND
3. FIRE-STOPS USED IN A STANDARD FRAME WALL.
4. LAY OUT THE PARTS OF THE FRAME WALL AND
NAIL THEM TOGETHER.
5. TILT UP THE CONSTRUCTION WALL.
6. CHECK THE WALL TO BE SURE IT IS VERTICAL
(PLUMB).
7. NAIL THE WALL IN PLACE, AND INSTALL
FIRE-STOPS.
8. DISASSEMBLE THE WALL AS A CARPENTER
REMODELING EXPERIENCE.
YOU MAY ALSO:
COMPUTE BOARD FEET AND LUMBER LENGTHS.
BEFORE BEGINNING THESE ACTIVITIES, YOU WILL
FIRST LEARN ABOUT A CAREER AS A CARPENTER.
CARPENTERS CONVERT STACKS OF LUMBER INTO
HOUSES AND BUILDINGS. THESE SKILLED BUILDERS
ARE EMPLOYED IN ALMOST EVERY TYPE OF
CONSTRUCTION ACTIVITY.
CARPENTERS BUILD THE FRAMEWORK OF BUILDINGS,
LAY FLOORS, AND BUILD STAIRS. CARPENTERS USE
HAND TOOLS SUCH AS HAMMERS, SAWS, PLANES, AND
CHISELS. THEY USE POWER TOOLS SUCH AS ELECTRIC
SAWS, DRILLS, RIVET GUNS, AND GLUE GUNS.
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MOST CARPENTERS ARE EMPLOYED BY CONTRACTORS
AND HOME BUILDERS. ALSO, MANY DO MAINTENANCE
WORK IN FACTORIES, HOTELS, AND OFFICE BUILDINGS.
GOOD PHYSICAL CONDITION, A GOOD SENSE OF
BALANCE, AND LACK OF FEAR OF WORKING ON HIGH
STRUCTURES ARE IMPORTANT.
CARPENTERS SHOULD BE ABLE TO WORK SKILLFULLY
WITH THEIR HANDS. THEY MUST ALSO BE ABLE TO
SOLVE ARITHMETIC PROBLEMS QUICKLY. WORKING
OUTDOORS MOST OF THE TIME, THEY CLIMB, STOOP,
KNEEL, BALANCE, AND CRAWL. IT IS OFTEN NOISY
AND DIRTY.
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TO BECOME A CARPENTER, MOST TRAINING AUTHORITIES
RECOMMEND THE COMPLETION OF A FOUR-YEAR
APPRENTICESHIP PROGRAM. HOWEVER, THERE ARE OTHER
TRAINING ALTERNATIVES. THESE ALTERNATIVES INCLUDE
VOCATIONAL/TECHNICAL SCHOOL AND ON-THE-JOB
TRAINING.
THE EMPLOYMENT OUTLOOK FOR CARPENTERS THROUGH
THE MID 1990'S IS EXCELLENT.
THE NUMBER OF OPENINGS MAY VARY FROM YEAR TO
YEAR BECAUSE OF UPS AND DOWNS IN THE CONSTRUCTION
INDUSTRY. BUT IN THE LONG RUN, POPULATION AND
BUSINESS GROWTH WILL LEAD TO A DEMAND FOR MORE
HOMES AND OTHER STRUCTURES. MORE CARPENTERS
WILL BE NEEDED FOR THIS AS WELL AS FOR
ALTERATION AND MAINTENANCE WORK.
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NOW THAT YOU HAVE BEEN PRESENTED A FEW FACTS ABOUT A CAREER AS A CARPENTER, DO YOU THINK YOU WOULD WANT TO DO THAT TYPE OF WORK FOR A LIVING?
TAKE THE INTEREST CHECK SHEET FROM THE CLIPBOARD AT YOUR WORK STATION, AND FILL IN YOUR NAME AND TODAY'S DATE. CHECK YOUR ANSWER TO QUESTION #1 (NO,
I WOULDN'T; MAYBE; OR YES, I WOULD), AND CALL YOUR EVALUATOR.
(OBSERVATION POINT #1)
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ON THE SAME CLIPBOARD IS A WORK SHEET. REFER TO THIS WORK SHEET AS IT IS REVIEWED WITH YOU.
1. WALL PLAN. THIS IS THE "BLUEPRINT" OF THE
WALL YOU ARE GOING TO CONSTRUCT. ALL MEASUREMENTS
ARE GIVEN BUT THE STUD LENGTH (X) AND WALL HEIGHT
(Y). YOU WILL BE COMPUTING X AND Y.
2. WALL HEIGHT TABLE. THE BOXES IN THIS TABLE,
WHEN FILLED IN BY YOU, WILL ASSIST YOU IN
COMPUTING X AND Y.
3. FILL IN THE TOP LINE WITH YOUR NAME AND DATE.
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YOU WILL BE USING 2 X 4'S TO COMPLETE THIS JOB.
"TWO-BY-FOUR" (2 X 4) IS A NAME FOR THE SIZE
OF BOARD USED FOR FRAMING WALLS. THESE BOARDS
WERE 2" BY 4" WHEN FLAT SLICED. PLANING REDUCED
THE 2" BY 4" TO 1 1/2" BY 3 1/2". THE SAME PROCESS
THAT TAKES PLACE FOR ALL STANDARD LUMBER SIZES.
GET YOUR LUMBER, AND PLACE THE BOARDS OF THE
SAME LENGTH TOGETHER.
STOP THE TAPE, AND GET YOUR LUMBER.
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YOU WILL NOW HAVE AN OPPORTUNITY TO PERFORM
SOME OF THE TASKS DONE BY A CARPENTER IN THE
WORLD OF WORK.
THE TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT YOU WILL BE USING ARE:
HAND SAW
CROWBAR
TAPE MEASURE
LEVEL
CURVED CLAW HAMMER
FRAMING SQUARE
SAW HORSES
CARPENTER'S APRON
STOP THE TAPE, AND LOCATE THE TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT.
IF YOU CANNOT LOCATE ANY OF THE TOOLS OR EQUIPMENT,
CALL YOUR EVALUATOR.
(OBSERVATION POINT #2)
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BEFORE BEGINNING THE FIRST TASK, PUT THE
CARPENTER'S APRON ON TO KEEP YOUR CLOTHES
FROM GETTING DIRTY.
CHECK TO BE SURE THAT THERE ARE NAILS AND
A CARPENTER'S PENCIL INSIDE THE APRON POCKETS.
IF NOT, CALL YOUR EVALUATOR.
(OBSERVATION POINT #3)
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AS YOU READ THIS PAGE, LOOK OVER THE BLUEPRINT.
HOMES AND BUILDINGS ARE USUALLY DESIGNED BY
ARCHITECTS. DETAILED DRAWINGS OF THE DESIGN
ARE THEN MADE BY DRAFTERS AND SOMETIMES BY
ILLUSTRATORS. THESE DRAWINGS SHOW WHAT THE
STRUCTURE WILL LOOK LIKE, HOW IT WILL BE
BUILT, WHAT MATERIALS TO USE, AND IMPORTANT
MEASUREMENTS. COPIES OR "BLUEPRINTS" OF
THESE DRAWINGS OR "PLANS" ARE USED BY BUILDERS
TO GUIDE THEM IN MAKING THE FINISHED STRUCTURE.
A CARPENTER WOULD WORK WITH A DRAWING LIKE THE
ONE ON THIS PAGE. THIS BLUEPRINT IS THE FLOOR
PLAN OF A HOUSE.
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GET THE TAPE MEASURE.
THE PARTS OF THE TAPE MEASURE ARE SHOWN. THE
STEEL TAPE WINDS INTO THE CASE WHEN NOT IN
USE. THE HOOK IS USED TO HOLD THE END OF THE
TAPE IN PLACE WHEN MAKING "OUTSIDE" MEASUREMENTS.
WHEN MAKING "INSIDE" MEASUREMENTS, THE
LENGTH OF THE CASE (2") CAN BE ADDED TO THE
MEASUREMENT ON THE TAPE TO GIVE THE TOTAL
MEASUREMENT.
DO NOT BEND THE STEEL TAPE TOO SHARPLY. IT
MAY BREAK IF YOU DO. TO KEEP THE TAPE FROM
SLIPPING BACK INTO THE CASE BEFORE YOU ARE
THROUGH USING IT, HOLD YOUR THUMB IN THE
GROOVE AS SHOWN.
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USE THE TAPE MEASURE TO FIND THE TWO BOARDS
YOU LAID ON THE SUBFLOOR CLOSEST TO 32" (BUT
NOT SHORTER). THESE BOARDS WILL BECOME THE
TOP PLATE AND THE SOLE PLATE.
STOP THE TAPE, AND FIND THE TWO BOARDS CLOSEST
TO 32".
GET THE CARPENTER'S PENCIL.
THE CARPENTER'S PENCIL IS FLAT SO IT WILL HOLD
ITS POINT LONGER AND MAKE A DARKER LINE. WHEN
YOU USE THE PENCIL TO MARK A MEASUREMENT, MAKE
AS THIN A LINE AS POSSIBLE, AND BE SURE THE LINE
IS EXACTLY ON THE CORRECT MEASUREMENT.
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USE THE TAPE MEASURE AND CARPENTER'S PENCIL
TO MARK OFF 32" FROM THE END OF EACH BOARD
(PLATE) AS SHOWN.
STOP THE TAPE, AND MARK THE BOARDS.
MEASURE THE THICKNESS OF EACH BOARD (PLATE)
AND WRITE THE MEASUREMENT IN BOX A AND B
OF THE WORK SHEET.
STOP THE TAPE, MEASURE AND RECORD THE THICKNESS
OF EACH BOARD (PLATE), AND CALL YOUR EVALUATOR.
(OBSERVATION POINT #4)
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USE THE TAPE MEASURE TO FIND THE TWO BOARDS
CLOSEST TO 13 3/4" LONG (BUT NOT SHORTER).
STOP THE TAPE, AND FIND THE TWO BOARDS.
USE THE TAPE MEASURE AND CARPENTER'S PENCIL
TO MARK OFF 13 3/4" FROM THE END OF EACH
FIRE-STOP.
STOP THE TAPE, MEASURE AND MARK THE TWO
FIRE-STOPS.
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FOR THE STUDS IN YOUR WALL, YOU WILL NEED
THREE BOARDS. THEY MUST ALL BE CUT TO THE SAME
LENGTH. LOCATE THE THREE LONGEST BOARDS.
USE THE TAPE MEASURE TO FIND THE LENGTH OF
EACH BOARD (THEY SHOULD ALL BE THE SAME), AND
WRITE YOUR MEASUREMENT IN BOX C ON THE WORK
SHEET.
STOP THE TAPE, MEASURE, AND RECORD THE STUD
LENGTH.
NOW ON YOUR WORK SHEET, SUBTRACT THE NUMBER IN
BOX D FROM THE NUMBER IN BOX C, AND ENTER
YOUR RESULT IN BOX X. THIS WILL GIVE YOU
THE LENGTH THE STUD IN YOUR WALL WILL BE (THE
X DIMENSION ON THE DRAWING OF THE WALL PLAN).
STOP THE TAPE, AND ENTER YOUR ANSWER IN BOX X
ON YOUR WORK SHEET.
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NOW, ADD THE FIGURES IN BOX A, BOX B,
AND BOX X. WRITE YOUR ANSWER IN BOX Y
ON THE WORK SHEET. THIS SHOULD GIVE YOU
THE HEIGHT OF THE WALL YOU WILL BUILD.
STOP THE TAPE, AND COMPLETE THIS TASK.
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WRITE THE MEASUREMENTS IN BOX X AND Y NEAR THE X AND Y ON THE WALL PLAN FOUND ON YOUR WORK SHEET.
YOU NOW HAVE ALL THE MEASUREMENTS YOU NEED TO CUT THE PARTS OF YOUR WALL. CARPENTERS FREQUENTLY MAKE CALCULATIONS OF THIS KIND.
STOP THE TAPE, AND CALL YOUR EVALUATOR.
(OBSERVATION POINT #5)
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FIND BOX X ON YOUR WALL PLAN. THIS IS THE
MEASUREMENT THAT YOU WILL USE TO MEASURE THE
STUDS.
USE THE TAPE MEASURE AND PENCIL TO MARK THIS
MEASUREMENT ON THE STUDS.
STOP THE TAPE, AND MARK THE THREE STUDS AT
THIS TIME.
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TAKE THE FRAMING SQUARE OUT OF THE TOOL BOX.
YOU WILL USE THE FRAMING SQUARE TO MARK
CUTTING LINES.
LAY THE FRAMING SQUARE ON THE MEASUREMENT MARK
YOU MADE AND AGAINST THE EDGE OF THE BOARD AS
SHOWN.
USE THE CARPENTER'S PENCIL TO DRAW A LINE ALONG
THE EDGE OF THE SQUARE ON THE MEASUREMENT MARK.
DO THIS FOR THE TWO PLATES, THREE STUDS, AND TWO
FIRE-STOPS YOU HAVE ALREADY MARKED.
STOP THE TAPE, MARK THE SEVEN BOARDS, THEN CALL
YOUR EVALUATOR.
(OBSERVATION POINT #6)
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TAKE ONE SAWHORSE OUT OF THE TOOL HOLDER.
SET IT UPRIGHT (LEGS DOWN) ON THE FLOOR.
UNFOLD THE SAWHORSE.
HOOK THE MOVEABLE BRACE OVER THE HOLDING
SCREW.
DO THE SAME FOR THE OTHER SAWHORSE.
STOP THE TAPE, AND SET UP THE SAWHORSES.
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SAWHORSES ARE USED TO LAY BOARDS ON FOR SAWING.
CARPENTERS OFTEN LAY BOARDS THEY ARE WORKING
WITH ON SAWHORSES. THEY HOLD THE BOARDS DOWN
WITH A HAND AND KNEE AS SHOWN.
PAGE 21
TAKE THE HAND SAW OUT OF THE TOOL BOX.
GET A BOARD YOU HAVE MARKED FOR CUTTING.
LAY THE BOARD ON THE SAWHORSES SO THE
GUIDELINE IS ABOUT FIVE INCHES OUT FROM
THE END.
NOTE: LISTEN AND READ THE FOLLOWING
INSTRUCTIONS BEFORE SAWING.
TO BEGIN SAWING, PUT THE SAW ON THE GUIDELINE
AT THE EDGE OF THE BOARD. HOLD IT AT THE
ANGLE SHOWN. PULL THE SAW BACK, KEEPING IT IN
LINE WITH YOUR THUMB. LIFT THE SAW, MOVE IT
FORWARD, LET IT DOWN ON THE WOOD, AND PULL IT
DOWN AGAIN. DO THIS UNTIL THE GROOVE IS DEEP
ENOUGH THAT THE SAW WON'T JUMP OUT WHEN YOU
PUSH IT FORWARD.
THE TEETH OF THE SAW CUT WHEN YOU PUSH IT
FORWARD AND DOWN. ON THIS FORWARD STROKE, YOU
DON'T HAVE TO PRESS DOWN ON THE SAW. THE WEIGHT
OF THE BLADE IS ALL THE PRESSURE NEEDED. HOLD
THE SAW SO THAT THE TEETH ARE AT THE ANGLE
SHOWN. THE BLADE SHOULD BE STRAIGHT UP AND DOWN.
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IF THE GROOVE STARTS GETTING OFF THE
GUIDELINE, MOVE IT BACK BY TWISTING (NOT BENDING)
THE HANDLE OF THE SAW SLIGHTLY AS YOU CONTINUE
SAWING.
AS YOU GET NEAR THE END OF THE CUT, USE ONE
HAND TO HOLD UP THE END OF THE BOARD THAT IS
NOT SUPPORTED. OTHERWISE, THE UNSUPPORTED END
OF THE BOARD WILL SPLINTER AND BREAK OFF,
LEAVING A RAGGED EDGE.
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CHECK THE GROOVE ON THE SIDES OF THE BOARD AS WELL AS THE TOP TO BE SURE THE CUT IS STRAIGHT AND SQUARE. REMEMBER TO HOLD UP THE UNSUPPORTED END OF THE BOARD AS YOU ARE ABOUT TO FINISH THE CUT.
NOW, SAW ALONG THE GUIDELINE UNTIL YOU HAVE CUT COMPLETELY THROUGH THE BOARD.
STOP THE TAPE, SAW THE BOARD, THEN CALL YOUR EVALUATOR.
(OBSERVATION POINT #7)
NOW CUT THE REMAINING SIX BOARDS, AND RETURN THE SAW AND SAWHORSES TO THE TOOL HOLDER.
STOP THE TAPE, CUT THE BOARDS, RETURN THE TOOLS, AND CALL YOUR EVALUATOR.
(OBSERVATION POINT #8)
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GET A PLATE (MIDDLE-SIZE BOARD). IGNORE
ANY PENCIL LINES THAT ARE ALREADY ON THE
WOOD.
LAY THE PLATE FLAT ON THE SUBFLOOR.
GET THE PENCIL AND FRAMING SQUARE.
LAY THE FRAMING SQUARE SO THE OUTER EDGE OF
THE WIDE LEG OF THE SQUARE LINES UP WITH
THE END OF THE PLATE AS SHOWN.
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DRAW A LINE ACROSS THE PLATE WITH THE PENCIL ALONG THE INNER EDGE OF THE WIDE LEG OF THE SQUARE.
LINE THE SQUARE UP, AND MARK THE OTHER END OF THE PLATE THE SAME WAY.
STOP THE TAPE, AND MARK THE PLATES.
DO THE SAME FOR THE OTHER PLATE.
STOP THE TAPE, MARK THE OTHER PLATE, THEN CALL YOUR EVALUATOR.
(OBSERVATION POINT #9)
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GET THE TAPE MEASURE.
MEASURE IN FROM THE END OF A PLATE 15 1/4".
USE THE PENCIL TO MARK THIS MEASUREMENT ON
THE PLATE.
STOP THE TAPE, MARK THE BOARD.
LAY THE EDGE OF THE WIDE LEG OF THE FRAMING
SQUARE ON THIS MARK SO THE OTHER EDGE OF
THIS LEG IS AWAY FROM THE END OF THE PLATE
YOU MEASURED FROM.
PAGE 27
HOLD THE SQUARE IN PLACE, AND MAKE A LINE WITH THE PENCIL ON THE PLATE ALONG BOTH EDGES OF THE WIDE LEG OF THE FRAMING SQUARE.
WRITE AN X BETWEEN EACH PAIR OF GUIDELINES. CARPENTER'S DO THIS TO SHOW WHERE THE STUDS WILL GO.
NOTE: BE SURE THESE MIDDLE MARKS ARE ON THE SAME SIDE OF THE BOARD AS THE MARKS YOU MADE AT THE ENDS OF THE BOARD.
STOP THE TAPE, DRAW LINES, AND MARK X BETWEEN GUIDELINES.
MEASURE AND MARK THE OTHER PLATE IN THE SAME WAY, AND CALL YOUR EVALUATOR.
(OBSERVATION POINT #10)
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SET A PLATE ON ITS EDGE AT THE END OF THE
SUBFLOOR. (YOU MAY SET THE PLATE AGAINST
THE BRACING BOARD IF YOU WANT). THE
POSITIONING MARKS ON THE PLATES SHOULD FACE
INWARD.
GET THE STUDS AND LAY THE STUDS ONTO THEIR
EDGES.
SLIDE THE ENDS OF THE STUDS AGAINST THE
PLATE. THE ENDS OF THE STUDS SHOULD BE
WITHIN THE POSITIONING MARKS YOU MADE ON
THE PLATE.
STOP THE TAPE, AND POSITION THE PLATE AND
STUDS.
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SET THE OTHER PLATE ON ITS EDGE, AND SLIDE IT
AGAINST THE OPPOSITE ENDS OF THE STUDS. BE
SURE THE ENDS ARE WITHIN THE POSITIONING LINES
FOR THE STUDS. ALSO, BE SURE THE MARKS ON THE
PLATES LINE UP WITH THE MARKS ON THE OTHER
PLATE. IF THEY LINE UP, THE MIDDLE STUD
WILL BE STRAIGHT.
STOP THE TAPE, POSITION THE PLATE, AND CALL
YOUR EVALUATOR.
(OBSERVATION POINT #11)
PAGE 30
NOW THAT YOU HAVE LAID OUT THE WALL, YOU WILL USE THE HAMMER AND NAILS TO FASTEN THE PARTS TOGETHER.
OF THE MANY VARIETY OF NAILS, YOU WILL BE USING TWO: THE BOX NAIL AND THE DOUBLE-HEAD NAIL TO FASTEN YOUR WALL TO THE OTHER WALL AND THE SUBFLOOR.
PAGE 31
WHEN STARTING A NAIL INTO WOOD, HOLD IT WITH
A COUPLE OF FINGERS, AND HIT IT LIGHTLY WITH
THE HEAD OF THE HAMMER. WHEN THE NAIL CAN
STAND INTO THE WOOD BY ITSELF, LET GO, AND
POUND IT IN WITH HEAVIER BLOWS. BE SURE THE
HAMMER STRIKES THE HEAD OF THE NAIL SQUARELY.
OTHERWISE, THE NAIL WILL GO IN CROOKED OR
BEND.
NOTE: BE CAREFUL NOT TO HIT YOUR FINGERS
WITH THE HAMMER!
IF YOU SHOULD NEED TO REMOVE A BENT NAIL, THE
CURVED CLAW IS USED TO PULL NAILS OUT OF THE
WOOD. IT WORKS LIKE A LEVEL AS SHOWN. SOME-
TIMES A BLOCK PLACED UNDER THE HAMMER HEAD
WILL GIVE ADDED LEVERAGE AND HELP THE NAILS
STAY STRAIGHT SO THEY CAN BE USED AGAIN.
PAGE 32
GET THE HAMMER.
USE THE HAMMER TO DRIVE BOX NAILS THROUGH A
PLATE INTO THE ENDS OF THE STUDS. DRIVE TWO
NAILS INTO THE END OF EACH STUD IN THE
POSITIONS SHOWN.
ATTACH THE OTHER PLATE TO THE OPPOSITE ENDS
OF THE STUDS, DRIVE TWO NAILS FOR EACH STUD.
NOTE: BRACE THE ENDS OF THE WALL AGAINST
THE BRACING BOARD ON THE SUBFLOOR TO HOLD
THE BOARDS STEADY FOR NAILING. TURN THE
WALL OVER SO THE OTHER PLATE CAN BE BRACED
AGAINST IT BY TILTING THE WALL UP AND OVER.
STOP THE TAPE, NAIL THE BOARDS, THEN CALL YOUR
EVALUATOR.
(OBSERVATION POINT #12)
PAGE 33
TAKE THE LEVEL OUT OF THE TOOL BOX.
THE LEVEL IS USED BY CARPENTERS TO CHECK THAT
BUILDING COMPONENTS ARE EXACTLY STRAIGHT UP
AND DOWN OR EXACTLY SIDEWAYS. WHEN A WALL IS
EXACTLY STRAIGHT UP AND DOWN, IT IS CALLED
"PLUMB".
WHEN THE BUBBLE LINES UP BETWEEN THE LINES ON
THE LEVEL, THINGS ARE EITHER STRAIGHT UP AND
DOWN, OR SIDEWAYS--DEPENDING ON WHICH WAY THE
BODY OF THE LEVEL IS POSITIONED.
LEAN THE LEVEL AGAINST THE ALREADY STANDING
WALL SO YOU CAN REACH IT EASILY.
PAGE 34
TILT THE WALL UP AS SHOWN.
SLIDE IT INTO POSITION AGAINST THE ALREADY
STANDING WALL AS SHOWN ON THE BLUEPRINT.
WHILE HOLDING THE WALL UPRIGHT, GET THE LEVEL.
PLACE THE LEVEL AGAINST A STUD AS SHOWN.
WHILE HOLDING THE LEVEL AGAINST THE STUD, MOVE
THE WALL UNTIL THE BUBBLE IN THE LEVEL SHOWS
THAT THE WALL IS EXACTLY STRAIGHT UP AND DOWN.
MAKE A SMALL MARK ON THE ALREADY STANDING WALL
WITH THE PENCIL AS SHOWN. USE THE EDGE OF THE
WALL YOU BUILT AS A GUIDE FOR THE PENCIL.
(IGNORE ANY OTHER PENCIL MARKS).
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STOP THE TAPE, MARK THE WALL, AND RETURN THE
LEVEL TO THE TOOL HOLDER.
HOLDING THE WALL WITH ONE HAND, GET A
DOUBLE-HEAD NAIL FROM THE APRON.
USE THE HAMMER TO DRIVE THE NAIL THROUGH THE
CORNER STUD OF YOUR WALL INTO THE EDGE OF THE
OUTSIDE CORNER STUD OF THE ALREADY STANDING
WALL. BE SURE THE EDGE OF YOUR WALL IS LINED
UP WITH THE MARK YOU MADE WHEN THE WALL WAS
STRAIGHT UP AND DOWN (PLUMB). DRIVE THE
NAIL ONLY AS DEEP AS THE LOWER HEAD.
STOP THE TAPE, DRIVE THE NAIL, THEN CALL YOUR
EVALUATOR.
(OBSERVATION POINT #13)
PAGE 36
MOVE THE WALL SO THE OTHER EDGE OF THE BOTTOM
PLATE IS IN LINE WITH THE OUTER EDGE OF THE
SUBFLOOR AS SHOWN. TAP THE BOTTOM PLATE
LIGHTLY WITH THE HAMMER TO MOVE THE WALL INTO
THE PROPER POSITION.
DRIVE A DOUBLE-HEAD NAIL THROUGH THE BOTTOM
PLATE AND SUBFLOOR INTO THE FLOOR JOIST AS
SHOWN IN THE DIAGRAM.
REMEMBER TO DRIVE THE DOUBLE-HEAD NAIL ONLY
AS DEEP AS THE LOWER HEAD.
STOP THE TAPE, AND DRIVE THE NAIL.
DRIVE SIX MORE DOUBLE-HEAD NAILS INTO THE
BOTTOM PLATE AND CORNER STUD OF YOUR WALL IN
THE SAME POSITION AS SHOWN IN THE LARGE DIAGRAM.
STOP THE TAPE, DRIVE THE NAILS.
PAGE 37
GET THE TAPE MEASURE.
MEASURE THE TOTAL HEIGHT OF YOUR WALL. THIS MEASUREMENT SHOULD BE THE SAME AS BOX Y OF YOUR WORK SHEET.
STOP THE TAPE, COMPARE MEASUREMENTS, AND CALL YOUR EVALUATOR.
(OBSERVATION POINT #14)
PAGE 38
FIND THE NUMBER BY THE X ON THE WALL PLAN
OF YOUR WORK SHEET. DIVIDE IT BY TWO.
NOTE: IF YOU ARE UNSURE HOW TO DO THIS,
CALL YOUR EVALUATOR.
(OBSERVATION POINT #15)
STOP THE TAPE, AND DO THE PROBLEM.
USING THE TAPE MEASURE AND PENCIL, MEASURE UP
FROM THE TOP SIDE OF THE BOTTOM PLATE AS SHOWN
IN THE DIAGRAM, THE DISTANCE EQUAL TO YOUR
ANSWER.
MARK THE INSIDE EDGES OF THE THREE STUDS AS
SHOWN IN THE DIAGRAM.
STOP THE TAPE, MEASURE AND MARK THE BOARDS,
AND RETURN THE TAPE MEASURE TO THE TOOL HOLDER.
PAGE 39
GET THE FRAMING SQUARE.
USE THE FRAMING SQUARE AND PENCIL TO MARK
GUIDELINES ACROSS THE STUDS USING THE LINES
YOU JUST MADE.
STOP THE TAPE, AND DRAW THE GUIDELINES.
ON ONE SIDE OF THE CENTER STUD, USE THE WIDE
LEG OF THE SQUARE AND PENCIL TO MARK A STUD
GUIDELINE (1 1/2") ABOVE YOUR FIRST GUIDELINE.
THEN MARK ANOTHER STUD GUIDELINE ON THE STUD
OPPOSITE THE SIDE OF THE CENTER STUD YOU JUST
MARKED.
STOP THE TAPE, AND MARK THE GUIDELINES.
PAGE 40
NOW MARK THE OTHER SIDE OF THE CENTER STUD
(1 1/2") BELOW YOUR FIRST GUIDELINE, AND STUD
OPPOSITE THIS MARK.
NOTE: REFER TO DIAGRAM.
STOP THE TAPE, MARK GUIDELINES, RETURN
FRAMING SQUARE AND PENCIL, THEN CALL YOUR
EVALUATOR.
(OBSERVATION POINT #16)
PAGE 41
GET THE HAMMER AND ONE FIRE-STOP.
LINE THE FIRE-STOP UP BETWEEN THE GUIDELINES
AND NAIL IT THROUGH THE STUD WITH TWO BOX NAILS
IN EACH END.
DO THE SAME FOR THE OTHER FIRE-STOP.
NOTE: THE FIRE-STOP END AGAINST THE CORNER
STUD MUST BE "TOENAILED" AS SHOWN.
STOP THE TAPE, PUT IN THE FIRE-STOPS, AND MAKE
SURE ALL TOOLS ARE RETURNED TO THE TOOL HOLDER,
THEN CALL YOUR EVALUATOR.
(OBSERVATION POINT #17)
PAGE 42
YOU WILL NOW TEAR DOWN THE WALL YOU HAVE BUILT
AS A REMODELING EXPERIENCE AS A CARPENTER, AND
PREPARE THIS WORK STATION FOR THE NEXT STUDENT.
TO REMOVE THE DOUBLE-HEAD NAILS, YOU WILL USE
A CROWBAR.
GET THE CROWBAR FROM THE TOOL BOX.
USE THE CROWBAR AS SHOWN TO PULL OUT THE
DOUBLE-HEAD NAILS THAT HOLD THE BOTTOM PLATE
OF YOUR WALL TO THE SUBFLOOR.
STOP THE TAPE, AND PULL OUT ALL OF THE
DOUBLE-HEAD NAILS FROM THE BOTTOM PLATE.
PAGE 43
NOW USE THE CROWBAR TO PRY OUT THE NAILS
HOLDING YOUR WALL TO THE ALREADY STANDING
WALL.
NOTE: PULL THE LOWER NAILS OUT FIRST,
THEN PULL OUT THE UPPER NAILS.
AS YOU PULL THE LAST NAIL OUT,
HOLD ON TO THE WALL TO BE SURE
IT DOESN'T TIP OVER.
WHILE HOLDING YOUR WALL WITH ONE HAND, SET
THE CROWBAR DOWN ON THE SUBFLOOR WITH THE
OTHER HAND.
CAREFULLY TILT YOUR WALL BACK DOWN UNTIL IT
LIES FLAT ON THE SUBFLOOR.
STOP THE TAPE, PRY OUT THE NAILS, AND
CAREFULLY TILT THE WALL DOWN ONTO THE
SUBFLOOR.
PAGE 44
GET THE HAMMER.
USE THE HAMMER TO KNOCK A PLATE AWAY FROM THE
STUDS OF YOUR WALL AS SHOWN. THE PLATE SHOULD
BE COMPLETELY SEPARATED FROM THE STUDS.
DO THE SAME FOR THE OTHER PLATE.
NOTE: PUT YOUR FOOT ON THE STUD YOU ARE
HAMMERING CLOSEST TO. THIS WILL
KEEP THE STUD FROM MOVING WHEN YOU
HIT AGAINST THE SOLE PLATE ATTACHED
TO IT. BE CAREFUL AS YOU SWING THE
HAMMER, KEEP YOUR LEGS AND FINGERS
OUT OF THE HAMMER'S PATH.
STOP THE TAPE, AND KNOCK THE PLATES AWAY FROM
THE STUDS.
PAGE 45
REST A PLATE ON THE STUDS SO THE POINTS OF THE
NAILS ARE POINTING UP. BE CAREFUL NOT TO STEP
ON NAILS OR GOUGE YOUR HANDS ON THEM!
USE THE HAMMER TO POUND THE NAILS BACK THROUGH
THE BOARD (DO NOT REMOVE THEM YET). HIT THE
NAILS ON THEIR POINTS. DO THE SAME FOR THE
OTHER PLATE.
STOP THE TAPE, AND POUND THE NAILS THROUGH THE
BOARD.
TURN THE PLATE OVER, AND SET IT ON THE STUDS SO
THE HEADS OF THE NAILS ARE UP.
GET THE CROWBAR, AND USE IT TO PRY THE NAILS THE
REST OF THE WAY OUT OF THE PLATE.
DO THE SAME FOR THE OTHER PLATE.
NOTE: USE YOUR FOOT TO BRACE THE BOARD.
STOP THE TAPE AND PRY THE NAILS OUT OF THE
PLATES.
PAGE 46
USE THE HAMMER TO KNOCK THE OUTER STUDS AND
CENTER STUD AWAY FROM THE FIRE-STOPS.
HAMMER THE NAILS BACK THROUGH THE STUD AS
BEFORE.
USE THE CROWBAR TO PULL THE NAILS THE REST
OF THE WAY OUT OF THE BOARD.
DO THE SAME UNTIL YOU HAVE REMOVED ALL THE
NAILS FROM THE STUDS.
STOP THE TAPE, KNOCK THE STUDS AWAY FROM THE
FIRE-STOPS, AND HAMMER AND PULL OUT THE NAILS.
PAGE 47
PUT THE NAILS THAT ARE STRAIGHT BACK INTO THE APRON POCKETS. PUT THE BENT NAILS IN A GARBAGE CAN.
RETURN ALL TOOLS AND MATERIALS BACK INTO THE TOOL BOX.
STORE THE LUMBER IN THE PLACE YOU HAVE BEEN DIRECTED BY YOUR EVALUATOR.
CLEAN UP THE SAWDUST AND LEFT OVER WOOD FROM THE SUBFLOOR AND SURROUNDING AREA WITH THE BROOM AND DUST PAN PROVIDED TO YOU BY YOUR EVALUATOR.
STOP THE TAPE, RETURN THE TOOLS, AND CLEAN THE WORK AREA.
PAGE 48
CONGRATULATIONS! YOU HAVE JUST COMPLETED YOUR WORK EXPERIENCE AS A CARPENTER.
TAKE THE INTEREST CHECK SHEET, AND ANSWER QUESTION #2. NOW THAT YOU HAVE COMPLETED THE CARPENTER WORK SAMPLE, WOULD YOU WANT TO DO THAT TYPE OF WORK FOR A LIVING? (CHECK: NO, I WOULDN'T; MAYBE; OR YES, I WOULD!)
STOP THE TAPE, ANSWER THE QUESTION, AND CALL YOUR EVALUATOR.
(OBSERVATION POINT #18)
PAGE 49
PART II COMPUTING BOARD FEET (OPTIONAL)
THE LUMBERYARD BUYS ITS LUMBER FROM THE MILL
AND SELLS IT IN A MEASUREMENT CALLED "BOARD ROUGH-CUT SIZE THICKNESS
FEET". CARPENTERS MUST WORK WITH BOARD FEET (IN INCHES) X ROUGH-CUT
MEASUREMENTS. THIS IS THE FORMULA TO CONVERT SIZE WIDTH (IN FEET) X
LUMBER DIMENSIONS TO BOARD FEET. LENGTH (IN FEET).
FOR EXAMPLE: YOU NEED TWO 2 X 4 STUDS, EACH
EIGHT FEET LONG.
FORMULA: 2" X 4/12' (WIDTH IN INCHES
CONVERTED TO FEET) X 8'.
CONVERT THE 4/12' FRACTION TO A
DECIMAL: 4 - 12 = .333.
NOW THE FORMULA CAN BE EASILY
MULTIPLIED.
2 X .333 X 8 X 2 (NUMBER OF PIECES) = 10.666
BOARD FEET. THE LUMBERYARD WILL OFTEN QUOTE
THE PRICE IN SO MUCH PER BOARD FEET.
PAGE 50
USE THE TAPE MEASURE TO FIND THE MEASUREMENTS AND OTHER INFORMATION CALLED FOR ON THE BOARD FOOT CHART OF THE WORK SHEET.
NOTE: IF THE NUMBER CONTAINS A FRACTION, DROP THE FRACTION AND USE ONLY THE WHOLE NUMBER (EXAMPLE: 7 1/2 WOULD BE 7).
WRITE THE INFORMATION IN THE CORRECT BOXES ON THE WORK SHEET.
STOP THE TAPE, MEASURE BOARDS, AND RECORD INFORMATION ON WORK SHEET, THEN CALL YOUR EVALUATOR.
(OBSERVATION POINT #19)
PAGE 51
USE THE BOARD FOOT FORMULA SHOWN AT THE
RIGHT TO FIND THE NUMBER OF BOARD FEET IN
THE PLATES.
T = LUMBER THICKNESS (ROUGH-
WRITE YOUR ANSWER IN WORK SHEET BOX E CUT SIZE IN INCHES).
ACROSS FROM "PLATES" ON THE CHART. W = LUMBER WIDTH (ROUGH-CUT
IN FEET YOUR ANSWER
12
DO THE SAME FOR THE FIRE-STOPS AND STUDS. L = LUMBER LENGTH (IN FEET)
YOUR ANSWER
12
STOP THE TAPE, AND COMPUTE THE BOARD FEET. N = NUMBER OF PIECES.
E = BOARD FEET
PAGE 52
ADD ALL THE ENTRIES YOU WROTE UNDER WORK
SHEET BOX E TOGETHER.
WRITE YOUR RESULT IN BOX F ON THE WORK
SHEET. THIS IS THE TOTAL NUMBER OF BOARD
FEET OF LUMBER IN THE WALL YOU WILL BUILD.
WRITE $.40 (OR THE COST PER BOARD FOOT YOUR F = TOTAL BOARD FEET
INSTRUCTOR GAVE YOU) IN BOX K OF THE WORK K = PRICE PER BOARD FOOT
SHEET. TC = TOTAL COST OF LUMBER
MULTIPLY BOX F AND BOX K.
WRITE YOUR RESULT IN BOX TC. THIS IS THE
TOTAL COST OF THE LUMBER IN YOUR WALL.
STOP THE TAPE, COMPLETE WORK SHEET, THEN CALL
YOUR EVALUATOR.
(OBSERVATION POINT #20)
PAGE 53
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