>1986 TROOPER LE 2 DOOR
> I also saw the new articles too. I have a couple things to add about the tow hooks :-)
Please do shoot the shots and send 'em -- I'm curious, and definitely willing to post. Is it OK if I forward your words on this subject to Andy Scoggins, the author of that article?
> I just noticed your grill is different than mine too. I seem to recall now from somewhere that they added a "dip" in the grill around '93 or so. I see what they mean now.
Yup. I call that the 'smiley face.' This really messes up fitment of grill guards and aftermarket bumpers.
> I got the AFCO spring pads and some other tools.
Did I specify the suggested extensions to those spring pads sufficiently?
> Just checked on some 2" tubing. $35 for 20' for .120 wall thickness. 1st cut is free.
Hmm -- I think that would be fine for roll cages, but I bet you want it thicker for nerfs and bumpers. Especially if you pivot on your rockers like I do.
I ran across an old 4x4 magazine that had some thoughts on custom tube additions. If you want, I'll bring it in, copy it, then fax or mail it to you.
> I think I'm just gonna try my hand at some nerf bars if I can rent a bender. See how that goes before buying material for bumbers or roll cages.
Sounds pretty reasonable. Other ways to do it are to just buy the bends and weld them up yourself (referred by a friend, I've personally no idea where he got the bends) or call around and find a local muffler shop that has its own hydraulic bender. You give them a template, they bend it up, then you just figure how to mount the things to your frame. I bet you could do that cheaper than renting a bender.
As to templates, here's a trick I figured from my rollcage templates - PVC bends quite nicely when heated with a heat gun. Hell, for your 90 degree angles, you could just buy elbows, then eyeball the fit until you are happy with it.
> I'll probably end up going to a fabricator for that.
I designed mine, worked with the guys to have it bent, then worked with the welder to have it put together (I won't weld on safety items). It probably would have been easier to have it fabbed, but I'm never easy.
> Did you flip your overloads on your SOA or pull them? How's the ride?
Pulled them completely -- better ride, can't carry a big load. If I did it over again, I'd probably flip them.
> Also, I looked closer at raising the tank. I should be able to lift it 2.5" easy after the body lift without too much trouble. Looks like the easiest way is to grind the old brackets off the frame and cut/re-weld 2.5" higher.
Yep. Be very careful around the tank (obvious, I know). I've welded in close proximity to the tank by swiping my wife's least favortie bathtowel, soaking it, and filling the space between the weld and the tank with a couple of inches of wet towel.
> Definitely have to do something more heavy-duty with the bash plate. It's *really* bashed in. I'm very lucky the drain plug didn't snag. There's a gouge in the armor about 1.5" from it.
Sigh -- I need to get off my ass and scan some photos for you -- Steve Gardiner, another Amigo chap from So. Cal, has made up some excellent armor -- I'll try to scan them and post them where they can be viewed soon (though I don't think I'll have the story to go with them that fast). Steve has some excellent ideas enacted in his armor.
> Any other final advice on the SOA? I am gonna get one of those magnetic protractors too to measure driveline angle.
Yup, definitely do that. My driveline vibration is still present, though less. I think you just have to find the 'sweet spot' for your rig.
You won't be able to use your stock u-bolts, I suggest having some made up at a local spring shop -- they'll be better quality and probably cheaper than the shrinkwrapped Rancho ones. You'll need to retorque them several times a couple of days space between, as they stretch to their final 'set'.
Taking the old spring pads off the axle is pretty easy -- just lightly grind the welds on one side of the pad (you'll see what I mean), then sledge hammer the thing until that weld separates, twisting the pad up away from the axle housing, pivoting on the weld across the opposite side from where you ground.
Replace your bushings while everything is apart -- good luck getting them apart without burning them out. Don't forget to lube the bushings, if using poly.
You'll probably need extended brake lines for full travel - I made my own with Earl's line and fittings, you could also fabricate up a simple drop bracket for the line at the frame.
You'll probably need extended diff lines for full travel - easy enough to extend.
APPROXIMATE COST:
That's tough. The resplining will cost me ~$100, the adaptor plate will cost me at least $200, machining the back of the front transfer case will run me $40, and a new shaft for the front wheel drive side of the 'case will cost me $150-$200. Throw in an automatic transfer case for $300, and materials cost is in the neighborhood of $900. That could go down with production, but I'm not willing to bet on that. For approximate cost, I'd probably want to price it somewhere between $1000 and $1500, depending on the final material costs. Yipes.
IRREVERSIBLE STEPS:
Cut a new hole in the floorpan for the second shifter.
Optional -- cut up your rear driveshaft for parts
STUFF YOU'LL HAVE TO BUY:
Rear driveshaft with slip yoke in the driveshaft
RTV sealant
STUFF YOU CAN KEEP:
Tranny/Transfer Case (xfer rear cover swaps out for my adaptor)
Transmission crossmember
T-case skidplate
Front driveshaft
ASSEMBLY STEPS:
1.) Remove rear transfer case cover
2.) Remove 2WD/4WD shifter fork
3.) Remove front drive flange
4.) Remove 2WD/4WD shaft
5.) Install second transfer case pack (second 'case, adaptor plate,
modified rear cover)
6.) Install front drive flange
7.) Cut shifter hole, install shifter
8.) Bolt up the front driveshaft and drive in front wheel drive to get a new rear driveshaft.
The back RS9012's set on 5 nicely damp the bumps -- and almost make up for the current lack of front shocks.
Well, lowering crossmember helped decrease the vibration, but its definitely there, especially at highway speeds. For a change, I remembered to check the system-wide effects of a minor change, and saw the interference at the fan shroud after I tipped the engine. There's very little room back by the firewall to allow you to tilt the engine back by much.
> One suggestion. You mentioned over the phone that with the stock setup, you can't pull the rear driveshaft without leaking tranny oil. I'm assuming the second xfer case will have its own output shaft. Can you make this one the type that won't leak if you pull the drive shaft?
Ayup. Already done. This would have the same flange face and mounting holes as the front driveshaft. This will require a custom driveshaft (since the stock Amigo slip yoke is integral with the transfer case), but it allows inclusion of a mcuh longer slip yoke (allowing more travel) and will allow you to run with no driveshaft as required.
> With any luck, it'll last until I have to take the tranny out. Like when I'm putting in the dual tcase...;)
Won't have to take that tranny out (don't think) to install what I have in mind -- you just pull your rear transfer cover and bolt up the new assembly.
Swap out your rear transfer case cover, and this would replace that with a new cover and a second transfer case. If I manage this, the biggest drag in the install will be cutting a new hole in the floor board for the shifter and shortening the rear driveshaft. Everything else will be a straight boltup - including the front driveshaft and crossmember.
Well, I gotta tell you (but remember, you started it) sorta what I had in mind. The side and rear windows on the MU pop out -- I'm thinking the best way to work it would be a removable roof panel, and just some sort of foldable substructure for all the panels to rest on. Now the Mu has curved side glass, it looks like. I think the cheapest and easiest way would be to use flat tempered panes. All that leaves is the framework and attachment to figure out fiberglass is incredibly strong when set with epoxy -- and wood could be used as the subskeleton -- easy to work with. I bet I could totally do this - we definitely need to get together.
Steven Gardiner
118 Kodiak St., Unit "D", Anaheim, CA 92807
Day Phone (714) 632-1785
Home Phone (714) 637-9076
BTW, I'm hoping that the RUbicon Zu Zoo can be done attached to a weekend (not a holiday weekend) where folks can just take a day on either side. I should probably state something to that effect on the webpage, eh?
> sooo... What else were you painting gloss black?
I was painting an extension plate for my new rear shock crossmember that will allow me to run 14" travel Rancho 9012s. The shocks I had were really limiting my droop travel, and I'm anxious to see what my LONG chevy springs, dual shackles, and super-droop shocks will really allow for droop. I may need to get a 60" hi-lift jack to change the rear tires. ;)
> On your crawler setup, are you shortening/lengthening driveshafts? If so, How much & where.
The front driveshaft looks like it will be exactly the same length, but the rear driveshaft will be significantly shorter, due to the extra drivetrain length. I'm not sure how much at this point. My current driveshaft is 31.5" from cross to cross, and some rough math tells me that the newdriveshaft would have to be approx 18.5" long (all this assumes an Amigo). This is pretty short, as far as driveshafts go, and the angles are pretty steep, as well, but CJ5's and Wranglers have similar issues. I could make the things a few inches shorter at the transfer case, without compromising strength, but the cost goes up dramatically, so I'll probably try to make it work long first -- the prototype lends itself to this midstream change pretty well.
There was a discussion similar to this on the Offroad digest, and there were several ideas mentioned. The one I liked the best was to have a bar/bracket solidly attached to the rear axle, and on the other end of the bar to have a shackle--one end attached to the bar, the other end attached solidly to the frame.
I have heard of all the talk of design of rear trac bars and have to add my .02. I currently have a design on my 91 Toy that I am very pleased with. It is almost the same design as Jack A's except for a few minor diffs. Here it is: 1 1/4" cromoly tubing with 3/4" thread bar welded into each end w/about 2 1/2" sticking out each side. To each end I have a female ended "Heim" joint screwed into the thread bar, so the bar is freely moving/twisting when installed. The "Heim joints" not only allow for max vertical movement, but also will allow the axle to shift from side to side, which does happen when one wheel is stuffed (not much 1"or2 either way under extreme situations: rock crawling exc). The reason I went with this set up is that I have seen the axle shift far enough to one side, that with the "bushing type mount" set up at the cross member, it will rip the mount for the trac bar off the crossmember, because there is not enough side to side movement built into it. The bushing type mount is only designed to handle virtical movement, and very little side movement. The Heim joint set up is what they use on many of the baja race bugs and trucks. I have had no problems with my set up and it has eliminated 90% of the rap without limiting any of my articulation or wheel travel.
I use what is basically a triangulated ladder bar that attaches at two points (vertically) on the rear axle near the center of the axle. On the forward end I use a heim joint mounted to a shackle, mounted to the horse-collar crossmember.
The triangle holds the axle to prevent wrap and the shackle allows for articulation movement.
One friend of mine is experimenting with another forward mount using what looks like a sway bar bolt/tube apparatus.
Dan H: I've been having some weird things happen with my clutch. First of all, it's never engaged until I have almost to the floor. I just assumed this was normal, but I've driven a couply manual cars since I got this and they all seem to engage very early in clutch travel, like just about as soon as you start to push it.
Hmm. My 1990 has a brand new clutch - thanks to my poor 'wheeling abilities and finished by Double Whammy in Moab. The action is very positive and is well off the floor. That truck had 115,000 miles on the stock clutch. My 2WD 1989 has 175,000 miles on the stock clutch and has a down-by-the floor action like you describe, but no slipping. You can adjust these a bit, even with a hydraulic linkage, so that may account for the difference. Its never bothered me enough on the 89 to actually adjust it, though it is a big difference driving the trucks one after another.
Test your clutch for slipping. In 4WD low, stand on the brakes and pop the clutch quickly. If your clutch is good, it will die with an immediate jerk. If it slows, then dies, your clucth is slipping. Now do the same thing but EASE the clutch into engagement (still on the brakes) -- there should be a fairly progressive engine slowing at the point of engagement (that really isn't a long distance in actual pedal travel) followed by a definite stall. If it doesn't stall, or seems to slip too easily, youprobably need a new clutch. I place limited credence in the opinions of mechanics who are trying to sell me a clutch job. Clutches are either good (almost no slip) or bad (too much slip). Bad clutches mecome increasingly obvious, for instance when it starts slipping while going uphill in fourth gear.
Dan H: The last two weeks, I've driven up into the mountains to do some hiking. Each time I get up in altitude, the clutch becomes almost use- less. I have to practically shove it through the floor and even then it goes into gear vert stiffly. The pedal also "sticks" and doesn't come back up all the way unless I hit it and let it pop back up after I'm going. It's never done it before. Fluid is OK. It's got about 80,000 miles on it I'd guess. I'm just assuming it's time for a new clutch. Any ideas?
My 1989 clutch is sticky -- but at the pedal and not at the clucth. The clutch can be fully engaged (BIG springs on the disk) but the pedal spring won't always pop the pedal immediately back. This sounds like it may be a sticky or out of adjustment linkage, if you are not experiencing clutch slippage - which you'd probably have noticed. Try cleaning and relubing all the pivot points. I know you said fluid was OK, but it's never a bad thing to bleed the fluid.
Cleaning and checking the linkage is WAY easier than a clutch job. A clutch job isn't that technically difficult, its just a time consuming and weight- lifting pain in the ass. I'd do it again, but only when TOTALLY necessary. If you haven't done it already, that would be an excellent time to vent the tranny and transfer case with something better than plactis spring caps.
Dan H: I've gotten more info on the supercharger too. I really want it bad.
I'd love to see what that would do to an Amigo -- its just that after this impossible driveshaft vibration issue, I'm a little down on pioneering modifications myself.
Dan H: BTW, I still haven't figured out what your clearanced t-bar adjusters are. Before you send them to me to use, I want to make sure it's something I can handle on my own.
Methinks I took a picture. You can sorta see them in:
I will try to locate a better frame and send you the URL. BTW, the adjusters are still yours for the asking, I just haven't packaged them up and sent them.
How are your adjustable spring perches working out?
Well - the problem lies not with them. There are several small mods that I'd recommend doing to them, hoever. I have been gorrilla torquing my u-bolts, and I actually put a shalow dent in the axle tubes at each u-bolt, but this has had no effect on the axle. I'd widen the center of the bottom collar piece so that the U-bolt rests on that before the axle to spread the load. I also modified the tops of my saddle collars -- ready for some bas ASCII? Here's the exploded view:
springspringspringspringspringPINspringspringspringspringspringspringspringspring
springspringspringspringspringPINspringspringspringspringspringspringspringspring
PIN
WWWWWWWWWWWWWW WWWWWWW WWWWWWW WWWWWWW WWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWW
WWWWWWWWWWWWWW WWWWWWW WWWWWWW WWWWWWW WWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWW
PIN
SADDLESADDLEPINSADDLESADDLE
SADDLESADDLEPINSADDLESADDLE
SADDLESADDLESADDLE
SADaxleaxleaSAD
axleaxleaxlea
axleaxleaxleaxle
axleaxleaxleaxle
axleaxleaxleaxle
axleaxleaxlea
axleaxlea
This allows me adjustability of the axle fore and aft - which was key for zeroing in the wildy long chevy springs I'm running in back. I have holes drilled in the intermediate plate (2.5 x .5" flat stock - also doubles as low-tech overload spring and 'slapper bar') every one inch, and I can drill them closer if necessary. Why adjust here? Consider it future planning if you want to swap in longer springs, different springs (this accepts a wide location of center pins) or maybe you just don't have the $$ to lengthen your driveshaft -- you can scoot it .75" forward in the wheelwell. I'm tickled with this mod. even if it makes no sense to anyone else. ;)
Dan H: Was that with the new perches?
Nope. The perches have been EXCELLENT, allowing me to try many different angle combinations of the pinion. I'm confident that they are not at fault, but I have yet to fully remove the vibration. Dammit.
Dan H: Were you able to grind the seam on the axle down OK to fit the perches?
Yup, no problem. I have pictures on that waiting for pickup on Photo CD.
George,
ISUZU EDITOR HAT:
Sometime in the next few months, I'm curious whether the 2WD torsion bars are still providing increased clearance. I've got pictures of torsion bars, installation, etc. so that article would be a slam dunk if I could get some objective data, I'd use my (and your) subjective data. This is an easy mod that crosses over well to general tech (Toyota, Chevy, Isuzu, Mazda, etc.). that I'd love to get out (though CALMINI may be less pleased when it cuts into their marketshare)
Did I ever update Samson's page? I would still like to move most of the non-specific pictures into a separate file, like I've done with Dan Evander's Rodeo and Todd Adam's Amigo. This would quicken loading.
What size drill did you use to make greasable shackle bolts? I'm finally getting off my butt to work on the shackle installation article for the web page. This is another easy mod. that I think will generate high traffic from the general tech. section.
> Randy, I saw an add for a lockright for Izusu's.
Kevin -- forgive me, I've lost track of what flavor Isuzu you drive. I'm fairly certain that the Lock-Rite is available for only one of Isuzu's corporate axles -- the one available under the early Trooper and Trooper II. I could be wrong, though, and I'd love to be corrected if that's the case.
> What do you think of them?
They are purported to be an easy-to install unit that holds up well when not subject to tires larger than 33".
> Do they bang around courners like Detroit lockers?
It still snaps and clicks, but nothing is as loud as a Detroit -- though the mechanism is similar. My bet is that the Detroit is ultimately stronger, but the LockRite won't break in your application, and a Detroit isn't available anyway.
> Do you know who has them new?
Reider Racing advertises in most every 4x4 magazine, and has expertise in all differentials. Look 'em up and give 'em a call.
Arnold Mahachek: AMAHACH@gwgate1.jhmi.jhu.edu
devander@
>
>If you agree with the above and feel your project meets these requirements
>then I'd be interested in following your project, but In order to write-up
>your project, I'll need several things from you.
>
>First take a lot of pictures because most don't turn out well enough for
>scanning. I like very detailed shots which show how something was done or
>someone doing it. For example, instead of having the same 5 pictures of your
>engine, I'd like to see shots that show more detail, different views and any
>installation shots.
and myself ) will try to obtain components for your project to you free of
>charge or at a reduced cost. In exchange for this, we need two things from
>you, a written plan and wish list for your project and a possible product
>review from you.
>Dave and I need a plan that we provide our product vendors with that helps to
>show where their product fits into the over-all project schedule. It also
>helps to show that this is a serious project and not a guy just asking for
>parts. We also need a list of parts that you would like to have or plan to
>have installed as part of the project. This helps us to allocate product
>among our growing number of ORC sponsored projects.
>
>Let me know if your project fits these requirements and if you are still
>interested.
>
>Thank you,
>Mike Childs
>Project Vehicle Editor
>
Since you are building a Reader's Project, not all of the formality applies, but the general goal is still a plan, with milestones, and step-by-step writeups at each milestone, with photos and text. In exchange for this expectation, ORC's marketing group can work with vendors on your behalf to obtain (possible, but not guaranteed) significant discounts on parts which then must be documented at ORC. At the very least, the closer relationship with the manufacturer will generate better technical support and inside scoops on future products.
I think this is a good enough deal so that I will be doing it. I'd be happy to chat with you if you have any questions or qualms -- and I'd love to run your rig as a Reader's Project... and also work with you and ORC's Marketing department to pursue some of the discount perks that come from being a member of the enthusiast press.
> Being the Budget knowledgable wheeler. I trimmed (not removed) my front lower bump-stops for more "droop". My next mod will be shocks, 2" longer than stock, soft with progressive dampening, and shackles,
Sounds like a great plan. Aftermarket shocks will also help the road manners of your ride, in addition to allowing more travel. With some minor (and cheap) tweaking, you can really get quite a bit of travel out of your rear suspension, so don't rush to get shocks until you've done that. Then you may need more than 2". Opening up the spring pack clamps did wonders for my travel, as did removing the rear overload leaf (but if you do the latter, you've got to remember not to carry much weight in back). I'm sure you've thought of this (ahem -- I didn't) but you'll need to lengthen your rear brake line to accomodate this travel.
> I'm considering Fabricating my own "Missing link" setup).
I've done it, but not yet trail-tested it. I'm not sure it will help much, but I'll be sure to post results. I've also implemented longer springs at the same time, so it travels nicely but its hard to distinguish which mod helped more.
PHOTO PAGE
Going up Wipeout Hill, an easy 4+
This is the Dragon on Steel Bender Trail. Just about everyone who tries this optional climb gets a wheel in the air. This photo also shows the removable winch.
This photo shows High Dive's steps better than the last one but is not as sharp. Our tailgunners stood on the rear bumpers of most of the vehicles that came down the hill to lessen the possibility of going over forrwards. Everyone that was on the trail had to to come down through here -- there is no bypass.
This is High Dive on the Behind the Rocks Trail. It is one of the most intimidating hills that I have ever been on. The steps are much larger than this photo shows. Just after our group was done, a truck rolled coming down.
This is The Chute on the Hole in the Rock Trail, a wagon trail that was used by Mormon settlers in the late 1800's to settle south east Utah. It is now one of the premiere 4x4 trails in the US and one of my favorites. The trail begins at the airport near Halls Crossing on Lake Powell.
There are lots of cracks around Moab and this is another famous one, Devil's Crack on the MOab Rim Trail. Not shown in this photo is that this ledge is an overhang and that the photographer is standing 100 feet over Kame Creek Road.
This is the Golden Crack on the Golden Spike Trail. This is one of my favorite trails and is well within the capabilities of 3WD AMIGO.
Up the Rock Pile on Pritchett Canyon. This is one of the four spots going up Pritchett Canyon that I had to take a strap. Just a few minutes after this picture was taken, a friend rolled his rig.
Down the Rock Pile on Pritchett Canyon If you go down Pritchett Canyon, be aware that there is a 4+ hill to climb on the way out with no bypass.
This is a pair -- on some trails we use both vehicles.
Our idea of camping out.
INTAKE
Shawn:
> Regarding the airbox. I drilled seven holes in the bottom of the airbox, opposite from the engine. 3/8 inch bit was used. This allows the intake to suck more air, and by drilling opposite from the motor you don't pull in hot air.
RANDY:
Makes sense. Does your truck still have the input ducting that reaches
across behind the radiator?
> Yep I kept the duct, if it were to be removed the intake hole where it plugged into the airbox would be too close to the hot air coming off the motor.
I discarded all that ducting, since it must limit airflow, but I am planning a
fresh (cool) air intake.
> Then I replaced the factory air filter with a K&N which is less restrictive.
This is one of the drop-in K&N filters that uses the stock airbox, right?
> Right, it was about $54 and five minutes for the drilling.
> This allows much more air to enther the engine causing fuel to burn more effeciently at high RPM's.
Yup - and even better, since you have a fuel-injected truck with a close-loop 02 sensor, more air in means the computer compensates with more fuel, and you get even more power.
> The only noticable downside to this procedure is that I can no longer submerge the front of my car without getting water in the airbox.
Shouldn't be too bad, since water in the bottom will be stopped mostly from being pulled up and through the filter. This is not much of a loss, since submerging the front of your truck prior to this mod would have also brought in water from the intake ducting -- just from a different place. Make sense?
> Yeah, the intake duct is slightly higher than the bottom of the airbox though, about 1&1/2 inches, not a biggie though.
> And there is a slight sucking sound when traveling at high speeds.
You should hear mine -- MAJOR suckage. Still, a worthy trade off, IMHO.
EXHAUST
I'll forward a segment of it to you, if you need more, lets do it by phone. The segment is now attached at bottom. Briefly, I tried a whole bunch of pipe sizes, with empirical testing, and 2.25" is the right choice. My exhaust is a straight run out the header, through the cat, into the muffler, and turned down and out just before the driver's side rear wheel. Very simple, very light. If I do it again I might not turn it down at the tip, because it stirs up dust. Just out would be good. With a torsion bar, its a tight fit, but I no longer have that problem. ;)
> I'm planning on a free-flow cat and probably either a Walker or Flowmaster
> muffler with 2 1/4" pipe.
I'm not convinced that expensive mufflers are a good deal -- I get cheap free-flowing
mufflers and then I don't worry about bashing them. All my exhaust is above the
bottom side of the frame, no problems so far. Aftermarket catalytic converters
have come way down in price, too.
> I'm kinda concerened if torque will be affected. I've heard that backpressure
> actually helps torque and freeing up the exhaust may hurt that some.
Yeah -- that's real hard to test, but the 2.5" pipe I ran showed a marked reduction in
power, so I think if you sty 2.25" you'll be fine. All bets are off, however, with forced
induction.
Ravi: > I've gone ahead with a custom air-intake system (fitted by a local
> mechanic). It's a cone filter with a custom tube. Looks quite nice.
Randy: I designed my own that sounds similar, and I was very pleased with the
improvements relative to the stock restrictive nest-of-snakes system.
One of the things I plan to document at Off- is intake changes
such as this, and I'd love to post pictures of a different implementations.
If you can shoot the photo and get it developed, I can scan it and post it
if you wish.
> Performance has definately improved, I feel.
Mine was empirically measurable, but it is still a fairly small change, and
my Amigo, dragging all the armor and bigger tires around, is still pretty
slow.
> I'm now looking at a free flow exhaust muffler. I'll see how that works out.
That was a great modification for me, too. Not only was I able to cut the
weight of the exhaust sytem by more than half, I ended up with a short straightline
exhaust run with larger diameter pipe. 2.25" worked best for me, though I did try
3", 2.5" and 2" diameters as well. This may be different on your Rodeo if you have
the V6. I encourage you to find a local exhaust shop that bends their own tubing
and can fabricate an exuast for scratch for you -- IMHO there's no need to match
the routing of the overly restrictive stock system. Having said that, Calmini may
have a header which fits your truck -- I've been happy with mine. I don't mean to
pimp ALL of their products, but I'm definitely happy with their header -- better
power across the range, but especially good down low.
This exhaust work can be done on a budget: my header, cat, muffler, and all my
bending, totalled $350. Not bad, considering $200 of that was header.
Author: Randy Burleson
Special thanks to Arnie Mahachek, Ravi Kohli, Dan Houlton, and George Reiswig for thinking this out with me by email.
Stock Exhaust
The exhaust on these trucks begs for performance upgrades. On the Amigo, the exhaust dumps out of the head into a cast iron exhaust manifold, which bolts to a 2 into 1 downtube that goes down underneath the firewall to a stainless steel flex joint. From there, the exhaust goes back under the seat area, crosses over the driveshaft, runs back through the catalytic converter, U-turns and runs back forward under the catalytic converter, crosses over the driveshaft again, turns toward the rear of the truck, and runs through a muffler before exiting AT LAST out the tailpipe in the left rear corner of the rig. Auto manufacturers have different compromises and rules that they have to face, which may have led to the pretzel-ed exhaust that comes stock under an Isuzu, but we enthusiasts have a different set of compromises.
Heavy, restrictive, and low-hanging as it is, I've got a stock exhaust that's still going strong after 170,000 miles. Isuzu builds truck that last.
Exhaust Theory
Much has been written about exhaust restriction and backpressure. Briefly, too much restriction in the exhaust system is bad, because the engine can't breathe. Too little restriction in the exhaust can mean too little backpressure, which limits the scavenging of the combustion chamber at certain revs. If you are building a top fuel dragster, you fit the largest exhaust you can, for the least restriction, because you only care about moving huge amounts of air at high revs. A gas-powered generator, runs at one medium-revving speed, and exhaust can be moderately sized and optimized for that speed. Trail vehicles, it stands to reason, would optimize their exhaust for low revving, and not worry about restricting high-revving air flow. Real world vehicles have to strike a balance between these extremes. Installing the right exhaust will likely measurably improve your performance. Putting an over-the road diesel truck exhaust on your four-banger will likely decrease your engine's performance, though it may help you bag babes at the local hangout.
Header
I installed the CALMINI header for the 2.6 liter engine and was quite impressed with the results. Timed runs showed significant improvements over the stock manifold and the truck has much more pep. You can install a custom exhaust and this header together, or separately if you are on a budget, but installed together, you'll get the full benefit out of both.
CALMINI manufacturers headers and exhausts for the 2.3 and 2.6 liter four cylinder engines, and the 2.8, 3.1, and 3.2 liter six cylinder engines. They also manufacture exhaust systems for most vehicles across the Isuzu product line.
Exhaust Exiting the Back of the Truck - George Reiswig
2.25" tubing
Exhaust Exiting in Front of the Wheel - Randy Burleson
I ran several test mufflers and four foot sections of exhaust pipe. My local exhaust expert, Mark, at Marco Muffler, recommended 2.25" tubing. Ever the empiricist, I tried 3", 2.5" and 2" diameters as well -- and he was correct. The other sizes of exhaust both measurably and perceptibly reduced performance. This may be different on other Isuzu engines, so talk to your local exhaust expert, odds are they'll have a recommendation for you. I encourage you to find a local exhaust shop that bends their own tubing and can fabricate an exhaust from scratch for you. If you don't want to go that route, many vendors, including CALMINI, offer pre-bent mail-order systems for you.
Having your own tubing built from scratch means that you can carefully pick the components you want and contour the exhaust to the bottom of your truck to minimize the possibility of dragging it.
You can also build it with as many, or as few curves as you want. The fewer curves that your exhaust has, the less restrictive it will be. I opted for a straight-through design and squeezed all the components between the header's output flange and the driver's side rear tire. I had to pick my exhaust components carefully, with the rear tire, header flange, torsion bar, and transmission/transfer case boxing my components in. To get the exhaust to dump out before the wheel, I needed every bit of space available, so I did move the handbrake cables. If you remember, I'm using a twin-stick control between the seats (just like you see in every econobox, but with two of 'em) to run the hand brakes. Rerouting the cable and still using the under-dash handle could be dicey.
I have proven to myself that I am tough on exhaust, so I opted for the cheapest, most easily replaced components I could find. I located a 2.25" catalytic converter at Pep Boys for $80, and a low-restriction 'Turbo Flow' muffler at Super Shops for $25. I visited Marco Muffler and had them flare several short sections of tubing so that I could slide all of the components loosely together and test them in the space that I had available. When I had it exactly the way I wanted, I drive into the muffler shop and they artfully bent the tubing and welded in the components. The tailpipe exits the muffler, doglegs to the side, and crosses under the frame just in front of the right rear spring mount, then turns down and is slant cut. I've since rested my truck on this juncture, and it ovaled out a little bit, but the frame and spring mount prevented it from being smashed flat.
Long Term Thoughts
The stock exhaust system was barely audible, even at full throttle. Wind noise would drown it out on the freeway. My custom exhaust is throatier and is audible above that wind noise, but I think that this is an improvement, and not a problem. The resonant frequencies inherent in highway cruising are most audible from the copilot's chair, but are not intrusive.
Not only was I able to cut the weight of the exhaust system by more than half, I ended up with a short straight-line exhaust run with larger diameter pipe, and I carry a short sections of flexible 2.25" ID exhaust pipe, so I can even make minimal trail fixes. Ask George how fun it was running the Rubicon with an open header-ed four cylinder. His ears are probably still ringing a year later.
Some folks have expressed concern for the heat generated from this exhaust system, but it has been tolerable for 10,000 miles of highways and trails, and the paint on the bottom of the truck isn't even blistered. Maintain a reasonable air space, and you won't have a problem, especially since most aftermarket catalytic converters come with their own attached heat shields.
I'm not honestly sure I like the exhaust dumping out the side. It is little louder, which is not a big deal, but it really stirs up dust, which then comes in my window. I'm going to try turning the exhaust tip straight out, instead of its current downturn, and see if that helps.
Legalities
The stock exhaust system was barely audible, and if you build a monster exhaust and use 'glass packs, you may pique the interest of the local constabulary. Choose your muffler wisely and this will not be an issue.
California has some of the most restrictive smog laws in America, but as long as you have the components to pass the visual inspection, and a clean enough exhaust to pass the sniffer, they don't care what you do with your exhaust.
Some folks recommend reaming out the catalyzing element in your catalytic converter to reduce the flow restriction. From the outside, you'd never know, nor will the smog referee. I'm running a low-restriction catalytic converter that is the same size as the rest of my exhaust tubing, so I don't think this sort of destruction is necessary. Make your own decisions and live with the consequences -- remember, you've got to breath the air, too.
I've been told that some shops won't replace a catalytic converter unless it is damaged. This seems silly, and may just be the law, but you can remove the exhaust at home and get around this. You may even save a few bones since the exhaust shop won't have to remove the old system. I've also heard that drill bits easily open a stock catalytic converter, and then? Well shucks, that catalytic converter has a hole in it and needs replaced. Again, make your own decisions and live with the consequences.
Spring Width = 2.5" (damn close to stock)
Leaves = 6 3/8" thick + 1 3/4" thick over load spring (BOING!)
Eye to eye = 54.25" unloaded
Arch = 7" unloaded
George:
long term torsion bar swap report
door seals
erred engineering --spindle story
update samson's page, take out pictures (in photo.html anyway) unless in buildup sequence
want in on the isuzu@orc mail alias?
centering mainshafts (tranny/transmission)
ask George what size drill he used to make greasable shackle bolts
Micolock
> >>I used to run the Micro-lock in my CJ5. It worked well but, it was not
> necessarily a positive brake. I could always get the break pedal firmer
> when I used my foot. There are solenoid operated locks available that
> attach right at the master cylinder that look like a better option to me.
> I believe that they run about $75 each. This is what I would add if I was
> to do it again.
>
I've got a solenoid type line lock on my front brakes; it was $50 through
Summit, plus plumbing and wiring and switches. It's made by Sam Biondo
racing, and works incredibly well.
When activated, it's a one-way valve; you can add pressure, but it will hold
the highest pressure produced by the pedal. When you release it, you're
free again. Excellent hill-holder in tricky terrain. Mine is activated by
a push-button switch in the middle of my shifter knob, and has an over-ride
switch on the dash (since I tend to fiddle with the shifter button when I'm
bored while driving) even though the device itself produces no brake line
pressure.
- --scott
CHIP
Arnie:
I installed my superchip and socket monday. Not too hard a job with a good soldering station. There is a separate test point double socket already on the board completely surrounding the k-112 chip to be removed. I assume this is a factory test point after the board is newly completed. The service manual always says swap the whole module if it is defective, but doesn't say if the boards are rebuilt at the component level. Anyway, the test socket donut hole is too small to fit the descrambler board which the super chip is soldered to so it had to go. I temporarily taped the whole module over the module installed in my 2wd auto amigo so that i could swap the three connectors real quick to compare the old chip to the new chip. I'll probably get around to that this weekend, but i drove it to work today. On the interstate to work there are three long hills which i have noticed i could maintain 70 on in high gear but at 65 it would down shift to third. Today it did not down shift at 65!! It was a cool morning so everyone's engine had a little more power so i need to do some real comparisons swapping the connectors to get same conditions. But it is encouraging. I have an accelerometer which supposedly measures 0-60 and 1/4 mile times. I haven't used it for this purpose before so it should be fun on a side road.
GEAR REDUCTION
see if Rodeo has same # of teeth as auto (part numbers are different)
• Rodeo rear block gear 32-14
• Amigo rear block gear 28-12
1. stock Rodeo shaft is 2.5" shorter at max. insertion
2. stock Rodeo shaft is 3.5" shorter at max. insertion if I chop end threads and use stock splines
3. resplined and shortened Amigo shaft can be 5" shorter
4. may be able to narrow shaft between splines and bearing to allow female shaft to slide PAST the splines for even more room
5. may be able to trim down transfer case input shaft for even more room
4 x1.25" maximum rear spline engagement length
George Reiswig: 2742 Buxton Street, Forest Grove OR, 97116
home: 503-357-0103 work: 503-264-9621
Jack O'Brien: 1302 Hidden Court, Roseville, CA 95661, home: 782-3778
701 Riverside Ave., Roseville, CA 95678, 916/773-3278 work
Four Wheels West offers a gear reduction system for four-cylinder Toyota pickups and 4Runners. The JP Eater compact design (only 6.375 inches) and integrated shifting linkage provides for efficient use of the limited space under a Toyota, giving a 127 percent low-range gear reduction without affecting 4-Hi or 2-Hi. The system comes complete with all the hardware needed for a bolt-in installation. This is essentially two sets of 2.28:1 gears.
Marlin Czajkowski: 1543-B North Maple, Fresno, CA 93703, 209-252-7295
Marlin Crawler offers a similar intermediate transfer case arrangement for Toyotas. Marlin also offers 4.70:1 gears which can replace the stock Toyota transfer case gears for obscenely slow rock crawling. If you've got the driveline length avaailable and the dollars to do it, you can string multiple reduction boxes together for REALLY slow speed travel.
double transfer case gets 84.36
triple transfer case gets 192.34
Names:
• crueller
• 'zu-lude
• super slow mo Amigo/Rodeo
• snail or banana slug with BFG MTs
• lava - unstoppable and slow
• creeper
1. Mill back of front case
2. Mill front of back case
3. Cut down front output shaft
4. Cut down rear input shaft
5. 2WD/4WD output shaft - extend and link TC1/TC2 or machine all in one
consider using stock Amigo driveshaft slip yoke for pre-splined coupler
machine Amigo output shaft to accept Rodeo input shaft gears
> TODD ADAMS> I know George called them after I told him it was a possibility. But he chose to go another direction with his Amigo.
Yes, and it worked out REALLY nice -- I've wheeled with him and his truck, and I'm quite jealous of his low gears. Enough so that I am seriously working to engineer a solution using most of the Isuzu transmission and transfer case in conjunction with a Toyota t-case.
D: Determine shaft length - which way to err?
D: Have shaft cut and splined to fit stock Toy joining splined collar.
D: Arrange for fill -- maybe use stock breather hole
Modify driveshafts
$105.92 4x4 rear mainshaft
$412.08 4x4 rear transfer case cover
DAN HOULTON: >> This is something I would seriously consider.
I am seriously considering it. There's a whole host of problems with adapting our transmission to another transfer case, since the two are wedded by Isuzu, and there's not a discreet transmission output shaft. The solution I'm looking at is two modified or new castings for the transmission, which would retain the Isuzu hi/lo shifting mechanism but omit the front wheel drive section of the Isuzu transfer case. The back of the rearmost casting would allow bolting up a Toy transfer case, for an additional 2.3:1 reduction, or any of the commercially available crawler gears/additional transfer cased for Toyotas. This is not going to be easy, but I think it will be worth it.
DAN HOULTON: >> Ever hear of the Rock Crusher for Sammis? Lowers the high range something like 12% and gives a 4.xx to 1 low range.
Yeah -- I want the lower high range, too, for running larger tires, but that's into the realm of cutting custom gears, and the learning curve goes WAY up. Custom-casting the cases is tough enough, but I think it might be realizable. I may put this information up on the web page just as a current FYI state-of- events, and to gauge interest from others for a full scale production run. I think prototyping is the first step, though.
HIGHWAY DYNO
> Gear shifting is the key.
I do my testing over the same slightly uphill chunk of highway, staying in one gear, clicking my stopwatch when the speedometer swings past 30mph, reading off 5 mph increments into a small recorder, and stopping the watch at 75 mph -- this takes my shifting skill out of the equation. This gives me repeatable times and pretty decent data. I wish I had one of those G-tech accelerometers, though.
INTAKE
Special thanks to Ravi Kohli, Randy Burleson, LCFERRARO@ and George Reiswig for thinking this out by email.
K&N pictures: stock filter and hoses, stock filter vs. K&N filter, new intake hoses, George's setup, disconnected stuff off truck
RAVI: I've gone ahead with a custom air-intake system (fitted by a local mechanic). It's a cone filter with a custom tube. Looks quite nice. Performance has definitely improved, I feel. I've tried to test 0-60 times with an accelerometer. With my launching techniques, I'm getting 10.4 sec which is bad. My friend (driving for me) who is more experienced got 9.8 sec and lesser. I still need a little more testing. Edmunds performance. data in their web page says 10.0 flat for a stock vehicle. I'm still guessing.
I designed my own that sounds similar, and I was very pleased with the improvements relative to the stock restrictive nest-of-snakes system.
RAVI: Performance has definitely improved, I feel.
Mine was empirically measurable, but it is still a fairly small change, and my Amigo, dragging all the armor and bigger tires around, is still pretty slow.
RAVI: Experiences so far with the air-intake system: Installation - The engine wouldn't start up without the air velocity meter. Diameter of the circular edges of the velocity meter were tricky to fit with the tube of my air filter. Had to use a section of the factory hose to on one end of the velocity meter. The cone fitted snuggly on the other end of the velocity meter. Needed a little bracket to anchor the whole assembly to the engine compartment. Regular clamps did the trick securing the rubber tube joints. There is enough room in the engine compartment to keep the cone away from most of the hot air around the radiator fan. Placement I think is quite good.
RAVI: Problems: One of the clamps loosened itself, popping out the filter tube, stalling the vehicle while launching the vehicle hard on a 0-60 test. :-(. But just popped it back in, and tightened the clamps. Probably were loose to start with. The vehicle started fine. Overall no problems
RAVI: Goodies: Acceleration seems improved even though I haven't got an accurate assessment of increased performance. Looks wise, the air intake assembly looks great. Accelerator response is certainly better.
LCFERRARO@ > I was thinking about replacing the stock air box with a K&N filtercharger but,as we know, none are avalable for 2.6L Isuzu.
Wouldn't aftermarket support be grand?
LCFERRARO@ > I have researched K&N's catalog and this is what I discovered. Universal filters are the same as "filterchargers" but about $125.00 less.
Yup -- that's what I figured as well. The filterchargers come with some snazzy bracketry and some may also come with a MAF sensor -- but when I did mine I just found a K&N that would fit the side of the stock MAF sensor that points away from the air cleaner. Some K&N's even have provisions for the smog pump intake --- but I got one without. Mine is just a big K&N sorta-cone-shaped filter, about 8" long, 4" diameter at the top, 6" at the bottom, with a 3" rubber throat on it that is a slip fit on the MAF sensor outer diameter. A big hose clamp seals that off, and I customized my own simple bracket after the filter flopped around my engine compartment for a few months (with no damage).
The K&N filter I'm using is one of their cone filters, and has B046A6 stamped into one of the rubber ends. The filter element measures 6" in diameter at one end, 4" in diameter at the other, and 9" from end to end -- the rubber coupler that attaches to the MAF sensor is extra length beyond that.
K&N 6x4x9 B046A6
> I have researched K&N's catalog and this is what I discovered.
> Universal filters are the same as "filterchargers" but about $125.00 less.
Yup -- that's what I figured as well. The filterchargers come with some
snazzy bracketry and some may also come with a MAF sensor --
but when I did mine I just found a K&N that would fit the side of the stock
MAF sensor that points away from the air cleaner. Some K&N's even have
provisions for the smog pump intake --- but I got one without. Mine is just
a big K&N sorta-cone-shaped filter, about 8" long, 4" diameter at the top,
6" at the bottom, with a 3" rubber throat on it that is a slip fit on the MAF
sensor outer diameter. A big hose clamp seals that off, and I customized
my own simple bracket after the filter flopped around my engine compartment
for a few months (with no damage).
LCFERRARO@ > K&N has only one universal filter that I think will work--part #RC-3250. Outside diameter is 5" at base,4" at the end and 6" long with a flange of 3 3/16th. List price is $50.00 and sounds like it will fit perfect.
Sounds very close to what I got. I got the biggest filter I could, reasoning that the larger the filter media, the less restriction I'd have at the intake. Also, a cone shaped filter makes the airflow 'bend' less than a traditional cylindrical filter with filter media on the outer circumference of the cylinder.
LCFERRARO@ > I will also need to filter the air pump inlet hose presently filtered at the stock air box.
As noted above, some of their filters come with such a fitting in place, opposite the rubber throat. You could easily fabricate and seal something like this, so I don't think its worth buying a separate filter. My '89 plugged into the airbox like we're discussing, and my 1990 came stock witha separate filter, and the airbox vent hole was plugged with a plastic fitting. A junkyard could easily yield this setup, as well.
LCFERRARO@ > I wonder why Camini has not done the same???
Good question -- I'll forward this to Steve at CALMINI -- all that would really be required as far as I can see, is a bracket to hold the filter up and bolt it to some of the holes left by removing the stock air box. Or maybe this somehow violates CA smog rules? Dunno. CALMINI is a bunch of pretty sharp folks, so there's probably some reason they haven't developed this yet.
BUMPER
TJM products, marketed by ARB America, orderable from nearest dealer - call 206-284-5906 for dealer referral - 6 to 8 weeks for delivery, imported from Australia
ARB Bumper pictures: on truck 2 angles, off truck 2 angles, brackets?
ARNIE: the bumper is black so it is difficult to show its shape in a photo. it is a TJM bumper made for the Australian rodeo which is a 4door pickup. it is available in the states by special order ( meaning a couple months shipping wait).
Yeah, ARB is getting better at dealing with special orders as they expand their product line and more customers take advantage of this.
ARNIE: > though not a perfect match for the amigo or USA rodeo it does bolt to existing holes. if anyone is interested, I can write a brief installation description. I took no photos of installation on the white amigo but I still have a second bumper in the box ready for my red amigo. though it is simple to install, I would take pictures if someone is interested.
When you do this second install, step-by-step photos would be great -- I know that when I look at a modification, I like to know exactly what it takes to finish it, and words are good, but pictures are better. There's no rush to do this install, but when you do, definitely shoot pictures.
lucidwray@> best friend works for a welding company and has access to any welding and cutting equipment we might need to make new bumpers and brush guards. we had planned on making me a new bumper and brush guard within a week.
My front bumper is a piece of 5x5 square tubing with triangular notches cut out of the backsides of the bumper at the ends of the grill opening to bend the bumper back to match the profile of the front of the truck. Weld and grind to make it flat, then do endcaps. My bumper brackets are custom due to my frame extensions that I required for the Toyota live axle.
I think to hooks should ideally bolt right to the frame, not the bumper.
The Isuzu frame horns in front are a bitch to get at for attachment. In back, everything is much easier.
lucidwray@> I want my bumpers to be strong but still look good and no weigh too much.
Mine are pretty heavy, but I stood my truck on its nose in Moab with no damage.
TOW HOOKS
Randy, George, and Andy Scoggins
I think George's rear tow hook setup is the hot ticket for rear hooks -- and I've tested their strength with the weight of my rig. ;)
The trick to George's way is to get them spread as far outboard as possible to keep them in the strongest position, close to the frame.
My trucks both have provisions for factory tow hooks, though these tow hooks are oddly shaped. Normal American-made tow hooks will not fit the bolt pattern. Look under your truck on the bottom of the right frame rail all the way up front. There should be two tapped holes about an inch and a half apart. Without major modification, I think that's the easiest way to get a tow hook up front -- but as noted, you'll need a factory tow hook. I have a spare (my front suspension swap required welding over those holes) that I can mail to you that should get there by Saturday, and be a straight bolt-up. I'd want you to eventually pay me back for shipping. I'm sure the dealer could also get this part for a price, as could a salvage yard that deals with Isuzus, such as Hyundai-Isuzu salvage at 916-635-7558.
There's also a small bracket that drops down from the bottom side of the right rear frame. This has the same bolt pattern as the holes up front and is made to accept the same kind of tow hook. As noted above, I like George's solution better. I have also bolted tow hooks through the bumper attachment holes on the side of the frame (you do have to give up your bumper for that) but I'm not overly confident in the strength of this arrangement.
If you are planning a hitch soon, you might consider bolting one on and using that as your rear tow hooks.
Least preferrable, but workable, would be using a short tow strap (tree strap) and a load-rated shackle. These are good things to have in your offroad toolkit, and can be used to tug folks who don't have tow hitches by carefully wrapping the strap around the frame and attaching annother strap and the two ends of the short stap with the shackle (clevis and pin). This can cut a strap up pretty quick, tho.
I originally mounted mine to the frame crossmember that those bolt holes that you talk about are on...they're for a hitch, as you note. I drilled a pair of holes up through the 4" axis of the 2" x 4" crossmember, sort of close to the frame rails. There was just barely enough room to get the bolts through...the bolts were hugging the inside of the crossmember. This setup sustained many hard pulls as I was either towing or yanking people out with them.
Uh, no. Not the ones I used, at least. These are cast pieces of metal with a 3/4 inch cross section and are available from the dealer (special order, $22.59 each) as 'tow hooks' for 'towing.' They don't have a nominal rating cast into them, as my American-made hooks do, but guessing from the similar cross section and assuming similar composition, I'd bet that they are equally strong.
Now the little 'loops' on my wife's metro -- I'll bet *those* are vehicle tie downs, intended for transport, and I'd never try a yank-strap vehicle extraction with those loop hooks. Of course, with my wife's metro, you can just step out, lean down, and gently pick up the whole car between your thumb and your forefinger. ;)
Caveat emptor concerning the factory "tow hooks." They are not tow hooks. They are, I believe, attachment points for shipping the vehicles, and may not have a very high load rating. My tow hooks are rated to 10,000 lbs.
SNORKLE
scan Downey illustration for snorkle
ARB Snorkel pictures: exterior shot, underhood, in fenderwell
Safaru Snorkle product, marketed by ARB America, $350 orderable from nearest dealer - call 206-284-5906 for dealer referral - 6 to 8 weeks for delivery, imported from Australia
ARNIE: > the snorkel is by safari and I believe George found that it was not yet imported to USA ( I don't think it is related to ARB but they may be handling the marketing state side). it is also for the Australian rodeo which has different sheet metal and a diesel engine with different air cleaner. I also have a second one of these in the box for install on the red amigo but until it is available to USA it probably would not make sense to write up the somewhat complicated modifications to fit amigo. ......unless such a write up would generate enough interest that importation would be successfully encouraged.!!!! it would also easily fit the USA rodeo.
I have talked to ARB America, who is importing these from Safari Snorkels of Australia, and they are implementing the same order structure that they have for the ARB product line. They'll stock the big sellers, and special order all others -- this is better than when you imported your Snorkels and had to finagle to get 'em in. CALMINI is also discussing doing a snorkel for Isuzu light trucks.
SKIDPLATE
> ARNIE QUESTION: will CALMINI's rodeo front skid plate which now comes with its own cross member fit the amigo??? I don't have any rodeos around to measure to see if the bolt patterns are identical.
I don't know, but next time I talk to Steve, I'll ask him and get back to you. Cool?
> ARNIE QUESTION: > also, will the transmission skid plate which CALMINI sells for the amigo (though I think it is made by someone else) be compatible with the new rodeo front skid plate???
I'll check again next time I talk with Steve.
> ARNIE QUESTION: > I have this in a box now and if the front skid plate will work with it, I'd like to try installing and writing/photographing for the site.
That would be great -- anything I can do to help this process, don't hesitate to give a call. I'm a marginal mechanic, and an even worse photographer, but I do OK writing.
STEVE GARDNER>> I use the one from Cal-Mini the fits behind the front crossmember. Although I think I am going to replace it with a 1/4 inch thick one (homemade). The CALMINI unit it not holding up to well. I replaced the stock one under the gas tank with a little beefier unit also.
SUPERCHARGER
For me, the swap is out. When I talked to AA, they had a kit for the Trooper but wouldn't guarantee that it would fit the Amigo. Also, I recall they wanted some un-godly amount for the kit.
Hmph -- well, that tranny would definitely fit, so I don't see why not.
What kind of spendy were we talking about, here?
> I'll let you know when I know a little more. I don't know if you saw my ramblings on the SC yet.
Oh yeah, I checked out your whole site. SC sounds like a good solution
all across the powerband, TC would help pretty much only in the mid to
upper ranges.
> Kenne Bell and Whipple Industries. I've got catalogs, but have yet to
> call them to ask specifics about my particular install since there is no kit.
The prices I have seen for these things make engine swaps look damn practical and I might even be able to get the engine swap smogged. Still, I'd LOVE to see someone else turn this trick.
DIFFERENTIALS
Special thanks to AMECAINC@, Amrod@, Randy Burleson, and George Reiswig for thinking this out by email.
I'm still driving around without a formal TAD -- just my independent parking brakes on the rear. It works OK and is cheap, but takes near continuous adjustment.
Traction-enhancing differentials make a huge difference in the off-road ability of a rig that starts with open differentials. The problem is that only a few vendors manufacture products for Isuzu differentials, and this installation is not cheap because of the skill and time involved. If you've got the right tools, it is possible to do this install at home, but then you'll have nobody to blame but yourself if it goes awry. I strongly recommend that you take all differential work, especially ARBs, to an experienced professional.
There's a good explanation of open differentials and traction-adding differentials at:
Basically, with open differentials, if you lose tractions to one wheel on each axle, the torque is diverted to the spinning wheel -- which means that axle is no longer helping. Traction-adding differentials make sure that at least some of the torque goes to both wheels. This means that you'll have to spin both wheels on that axle before your are thoroughly stuck.
Currently, there are two traction-adding differentials available for Isuzu-made differentials: the ARB Air-locker or the Tochigi Fuji limited slip. That's all -- you can't buy a Lock-Rite, Detroit Locker, or True-Trac for your Isuzu differential. You can, however, call them and tell them you want their differential modified to fit into the Isuzu differential. Contact them at:
Lock-Rite phone number?
Detroit Locker phone number?
True-Trac phone number?
Reider Racing: 800-375-1330
Your efforts now might make it easier to upgrade your truck later.
Some of the American-made Rodeos were made with Dana 44 rear ends, and a plethora of traction-adding differential options are available for this differential. Lockers for Jeep or Bronco Dana 44's should drop right in, but I only know of one in active use. Please correspond with the Isuzu staff if you are running a Dana 44 and a traction-adding differential.
If you are willing to try a major change, the entire Dana 44 rearend from the Rodeo would likely be a straight swap. If anyone is serious about pursuing this, I'm interested in documenting it and I'll help with procuring the Rodeo rear end.
Steve Kramer, at CALMINI, reports that they'll soon be producing different ratio ring and pinion gears for the Isuzu front and rear differentials. Stock, these trucks came with 4.1, 4.3, or 4.55 gears, depending on the model and engine. Swapping in a traction-adding differential requires complete disassembly of the differential, which almost demands that you swap better gears in if you're running bigger tires. Wouldn't it be nice to use fifth speed (overdrive) again?
BUMPER
AMECAINC@>After the limited slip/locker I am not sure what is next. Most likely a winch bumper. The stock bumper is a joke and I would love a mile marker winch.
Yes that stock bumper is crap. I made my own after trashing my stock bumper, and based on the nose stand I did in Moab, the new bumper is plenty sturdy. CALMINI makes some tube bumpers (that I don't particularly like the appearance of) and most aftermarket places carry brushguards that work with the existing (crappy) bumper. ARB makes an excellent bumper but it is pricey.
ROOFRACK
ARNIE: where and how is your roof rack attached to the body??
Complicated answer. There are four supports which slide through rubber-sleeved ports in the soft top that support the rear halo (what you saw in the Rubicon pictures). the rack also telescopes forward (like you saw in the Moab pictures) and then the front is supported by an adapted Yakima set of towers.
MODESTY
ARNIE > mine would look feeble with yours and George's.
Its not about that, for me -- I'm sure there will always be someone who is better equipped than me. And I'll probably be better equipped than others. To me, this is about sharing ideas and experience, brainstorming and bullshitting about future modifications, and bench-racing amongst folks who won't put me down for driving an Isuzu. If nothing else, Arnie, I want to get you coming back to check the website every month or so. Better yet if I can get you to send an occasional picture or technical idea -- I know from previous mails that you think things through and have done some cool stuff to your rig.
LIVE AXLE SWAP
DAN HOULTON: >> Don't think I'll attempt the axle swap, but I would love to read about it when you're done.
Not sure I'd recommend it -- there's SO much involved.. I should have worked the low gearing first, one return per dollar and hour of time. Fun engineering, though.
> Better to perhaps tell what the individual steps necessary are in order, and put the pictures in the appropriate spots, with arrows, captions, etc.,
> The caliper shot isn't really useful. I guess it's a Toy caliper on a Toy rotor? So....
Had you seen the caption that goes with that you'd know that this picture shows the minor grinding I had to do to clear the wheels.
> Did you have to redo motormounts?
The caption that doesn't exist yet points out that the old brackets for the upper control arm are tied into the motor mounts, and that I filled these cutoff brackets with 1/2" steel plate, then seam-welded the insert.
> steerarm.gif - Any way of zooming out some so I can see what the angle
> is, etc?
Nope -- but the next set of pictures will show this better. Good suggestion.
> Also, it looks like a steep angle on the rod end...why not put it on top
Wheel clearance currently does not permit that -- SOOO close. The angle is not that bad, but I would like to have the rod-end on top of the steering arm -- a narrower set of rubber will permit this
EMAIL ADDRESSES
DAN HOULTON: >> PS, I have two addresses for you. Which do you prefer or does it matter?
Actually, the randii@ is home, this ones's work -- and I respond much better at work, but I like to keep a copy of web-related mail at home, so can you mail to both, for convenience's sake?
PARTS
Depends what parts you seek.
There's a company called 'I love trucks' that advertises in the back of the popular four wheel drive magazines. They sell sheet metal at pretty good prices.
Hyundai Isuzu Salvage out here in CA salvages and sells Isuzu parts -- their number is 916-635-7558.
CALMINI sells aftermarket performance products for Isuzu -- they advertise off the main Isuzu page at Off-. Phone: 800 345-3305 Fax: 805-398-9555
Beyond that and the dealer, there are companies that carry parts which will fit Isuzus, but its pretty much up to you to figure out what those parts are and if they'll fit your truck. Sadly, there just aren't a lot of aftermarket manufacturers that work with Isuzu products.
Randy Burleson
Editor, Isuzu Webpages@Off-
ROLL CAGE
The 1.75 x .120 sound good. I wanted small diameter bars for less impact on passenger compartment.
I used 1.75" OD .120, I think it was a chromoly, but I'll have to check.
NERF BARS
STEVE GARDINER: > 5) Custom nerf bars (expensive, but very, very functional) out of 1 3/8 inch round tubing.
STEVE GARDINER: I can't remember the wall thickness, I will check. They were made by the guy who owns Off Road General Store. He always has his rig in the magazines. He does a lot of pioneering stuff with Grand Cherokees (and Cherokees). He gets them working real good. In addition to what I told you about the nerfs, they are double bars running front to back. One that stick out to "nerf" around stuff with, the other runs next to the tab where the floor pan meets the rocker panel. I will try to get some pictures in a format the can be E-Mailed.
Engine Swap
2.3 to 2.6
The local Isuzu recycle yard tells me that the transmissions are exactly the same.
There number is (916) 635-7558 and they also sell 2.6l engines. They said that the engine mounts were different, but that the 2.3 mounts would bolt right up to the frame after you took off the 2.6 engine mounts.
Having said that, I'd be reluctant to swap a 2.6 in place of a 2.3 just because of the expense involved. If I was swapping, I'd go large, and talk to Advanced Adapters about their adapter to put a 4.3 Chevy V6 into it.
2.6 to SBC?
> I HAVE BEEN CONTEMPLATING CHANGING THE ENGINE, TO A 6 CYL OR POSSIBLY
> EVEN AN 8 CYL. I WAS WONDERING IF YOU HAVE EVER HEARD OF THIS TYPE OF
> SWAP BEING DONE. I KNOW THAT AT ONE TIME ISUZU WAS USING CHEVY V-6S
> IN THE RODEOS.
Well, yes, the 3.1 V6 was a GM derivative, but I think you'd need to swap the whole tranny
and transfer case in to complete that swap.
The local Isuzu recycle yard has completed this swap, but I heard thatit wasn't easy.
Their number is (916) 635-7558 and they also sell engines. They said that the engine
mounts were different, and that welding was definitely required.
> MY THINKING IS THERE IS SOMEONE THAT KNOWS WHAT IT TAKES (PARTS WISE)
> TO HOOK UP A CHEVY 350 INTO ONE OF THESE TRUCKS.
I've done the measurements and I think it would be quite the tight squeeze for the Chevy V8.
A Ford 305 would work better, IMHO, since the distributor woudn't end up in the firewall.
Either way, you'd have to scoot the radiator forward. This would be a neat conversion, and I
have heard that it has been done (though I have no names), but I think the V6 swap has
more merit.
Advanced Adaptors sells a 4.3 Chevy V6 conversion kit for the Trooper, which starts with the 2.6
4ZE1 engine and MUA Tranny -- but they don't guarantee that it'll fit the Amigo, and price starts
over $1000 for the bell housing alone -- and much more would be required. I'd love to do the 4.3 Vortec swap myself, but it won't happen soon at that price. A chap from ITOG (whose web site is at: ) has documented this
swap and is pleased with it.
WHY BUY AN AMIGO?
TODD ADAMS> I decided on an Amigo before I had even test driven one for these reasons. It came equipped with 31" tires, 456 to 1 Gear ratios in the differentials and of course good looks.
Luckily, it was a secret to most off-roaders, so the price stayed low.
AIRBAGS
TODD ADAMS> After a camping trip loaded down with everything including a kitchen sink, I decided I needed something to take care of extra loads while off-road. I fabricated mounts for Firestone air ride air bags between the frame and rear axle. This not only levels out the vehicle with a heavy load but I can lift the rear an additional 31/2". I installed air gauges in the dash for system air and air ride pressures, with a dash mounted control for the air ride bags.
This is an interesting mod -- George runs air bags off the differential -- I presume yours are more conventionally placed at the frame? Did this interfere significantly with travel?
WINCH MOUNT
TODD ADAMS> > I didn't want any decrease in approach angle so I opted for a removable mount. I fabricated a winch mount out of 2" steel pipe that inserts into the front frame mounts with latch pins. When removed all that can be seen is the electrical plug and two 2" holes through the front air dam. This ended up a very strong set up and has been used to extract full sized vehicles,
I'd love to crawl under your truck and check this setup out. The Amigo frame is so low relative to the bumper that custom bumper fabrication is a pain, as is winch mount, unless you are willing to use something like the Warn multi-mount and take the big decrease in approach angle.
TIRES
> The new B.F.G. Moab edition tires work as advertised, and this ended up being a problem. They grip better than any tire I have used but when they slip they have a tendency to hop. We were on the Behind The Rocks Trail and trying to clime "The Dome" near the top. The aired down to 8psi Moabs decided to hop. ( an early Bronco rolled here over this last Labor Day weekend ) This is the closest I have come to rolling and I did not want a repeat. The Amigo now wears 32" B.F.G. Mud T.A.'s on 15" X 10" rims. These tires are the best for slickrock in my opinion, when they slip they do just that with out hopping . When we took the Amigo on Golden Spike Trail the first time I was very apprehensive about the "Launching Pad" but the M.T.A.'s never made a sound going up and over.
Cool. This is much-needed information that I'll save for when I next buy tires. I have run ATs for a while, and my current set are 33x12.5 Laredo ATs. I am leaning toward the regular BFG MT's, because I need a tire that will wear well in my many road miles. The hard part will be finding a tire that meets my needs -- I'm looking for a 35" tire with a smaller inner sidewall bulge (TIGHT clearance with my swapped in Toy live axle tie rod ends) than what I'm currently running. Unfortunately, the only manufacturer that seems to cater to tall and skinny tires is the folks that make Swampers -- but I'm not sure I can live with their road characteristics and noise level. Perhaps one of their radials could suit me. Wouldn't it be nice if you could just try 'em on like we do shoes?
> Just wondering if anyone has specs on a 1990 Amigo for the following:
> Largest size tire that will fit on stock rims without a lift.
Well, I run 33x12.50's (true height 32") and have with just tweaked torsion
bars and Calmini shackles, and I got rubbing only at full-tilt travel on the
inside of the rear wheelwells in back and slight rubbing on the frame in
front at full lock. I think narrower tires would stop both of these rub
spots, since 12.5s just barely rub. If you run anything more than 32" true
height, you will probably hit the rear of the front wheelwells at full
travel -- which could be expensive.
> Largest size tire that will fit on stock rims with a 3" lift.
I'm presuming that you have the stock aluminum rims (not steel) and that you
are talking about the Calmini lift. The same rubbing occurs on the front
frame rail with 33x12.5o tires, and goes away with narrower tires. George
runs 34x9.50 (true measurement) without interference up front or in back.
IMHO, you could run up to 35" tires and still fit them in the rear
wheelwells, but the front wheelwells run out of room quickly at the rear of
the opening -- max. size with lift would be 34" -- and then only because the
Calmini lift limits front wheel travel. I'm running a toyota live axle up
front, and because I scooted the front axle forward two inches, I could
probably run 35s.
> Largest size tire and rim that will fit with a 3" lift.
I think the same answers apply here. Any rim within a few inches width of
the stocker will have very close to the same dimensions. IMHO, the stock
rims are fine, because wider rubber protects them -- even if it is beyond
what the tire manufacturers 'recommend.' I run 10 psi on the trail and have
yet to lose a bead.
> Thanks for your help....If anyone can point me to a better source for this
> kind of info I'd appreciate it!
Well -- eventually the ORC Isuzu web page will have this --- but in the
meantime, please keep me informed as to what wheels and tires you go with.
The above info pertains to my experience with 3 lifted Amigos, and more data
points are always welcome.
AFCO SPRING SADDLES
Houlton AXLE TUBE:
> Measured again last night and comes out about .005 over 3".
Houlton >The only thing I'm wondering about is the welded seams on the front and back of the tubes. You would have to grind them down flush to get a 3" i.d. tube over them. Don't know if that's such a good idea.
If its a good, penetrating weld, it shouldn't matter much, but I'd want o take off as little as possible. I think any thickness lost by grinding the weld would be more than compensated for by the added thickness and strength of the bolted-on collar, and I suppose one could argue that the saddle on a collar better spreads the load than the welded-to-the-tube spring perch.
Houlton > If you went to a larger size to fit over the seams, would it still clamp tight enough to keep the pads from rotating?
Don't think so, unless you welded on new material to bring the OD of the tube to the same OD as the seams.
My local AFCO vendor is Welch Motorsports at 989-3306. Not sure if he does shipping -- I can hook you up with that if you want.
These clamp-on brackets run $25.50 apiece - hell, the stamped saddles I bought were 20 for a pair, so that's not a bad price at all.
U-BOLTS
I bought my last set of u-bolts from my local spring vendor, and they cold-formed them while I watched -- a set of 4 (with nuts and washers) for $35. Don't think you can do better price-wise, and though I couldn't stay with the guy technically as he explained why his bolts were better than Grade 8's, he made sense. Just tech- wise over my head. Granted, he sells them, and thus was selling his product, but over-the-road truckers use these bolts, and they are REALLY picky about their components.
'ZU ZOO
> Here are my thoughts on your planed outing. First Moab or any other desert area is way too hot to have a good time in July. The Rubicon might be all right but I understand there are so many vehicles on it and there are sanitation concerns as well that distracts from a pleasurable trip.
Agreed, and good point on temperature. As long as you avoid the 'big weekends' and trail festivals, it is still a great trail to travel on a summer weekend. You may see people on the trail, but crowds are an exception, rather than the rule, and if your group is flexible, it is still pretty easy to find a good campsite near the lakes. > Here is a suggestion you might consider. There are some great trails in the high cool mountains of Colorado. I spent just over a week last year making day trips out of Ouray Colorado in August. Trips included Black Bear Pass, Imogene Pass, Engineer Pass, Poughkeepsei Gulch and others. Most of these trails are on the easy side but worth considering if you want all levels of experience. Good point. I spent some time there as well on my last vacation, and it was beautiful. The snow was out late then, so it diminished the number of open trails, but it was still quite fun.
BRAKE LINES
UZI's brakes are also at 100%, with some final twiddling required to balance them front to rear. All of those braided stainless lines have given me the hardest pedal I've felt in *any* vehicle -- no cush, no slop, nada. No line hanges below the frame, and at each axle, the line runs along the top of the driver's side leaf spring, to a t-joint atop the spring and u-bolts, from which it splits left to right. I won't be snagging these babies.
CROSSMEMBER
The cross-section of the stock crossmember looks like this:
__________________________________________
\ /
\ /
\ /
\ /
-----------------------
I want to cut out the shaded section:
__________________________________________
\XXXXXXXXXXXX /
\XXXXXXXX /
\XXXX /
\ /
-----------------------
Leaving, for the 5 inch cutout segment of the crossmember:
_______________________
/
/
/
/
-----------------------
Note that for the rest of the crossmember, nothing would be cut out.
How to reinforce? Here's where I think reinforcement could be made:
_______________________
/BX /SSSSSSBB
/ X /BS S
/ X /BBSSSSSSSS
/BXXXXXXXX /
-----------------------
B is welded seam
X is some angle iron I've got laying around -- once the crossmember is
cut, I can insert it lengthwise in that segment of the crossmember.
S is square or solid stock that I'll purchase -- it needs to be short
enough not to interfere with the stock skidplate. Both X and S would
extend along the crossmember well past the actual cutout.
/ I'd also rebox the cutout section, basically welding the crossmember
back closed.
Here's a spot for you to sketch.
_______________________
/
/
/
/
---------------------
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Underhood Welder - Make Your Own
>Just picked up a 150 amp alternator cheep. How do you connect up for welding?
Install it in the 4-WHEELER wire a switch in to supply full voltage to the rotor, include a method of removing the battery from its output lead, install a voltmeter on the output, install a micro adjustable hand throttle, get some standard welding whip lead and a few good plug & connectors, a ground clamp and stinger, a hood some gloves and some SMAW rod (e7018, 5/32" works great). Start the 4-WHEELER, isolate the alternator from the battery, flip the full voltage switch on to the alt rotor, watch the voltmeter while bringing the engine rpm up (2500 rpm or so) until the open circuit voltage is about 75 volts, strike an arc and watch the voltage drop to about 30 volts. It's great fun, and you can't have this fun until you get started doing it. Don't try to figure it all out in advance on paper. If the diodes blow, replace them and add another set in parallel.
Randy Peterson
RKP2@PGE>COM
From: timcook@ (NZ8J)
Date: 1997/07/09
Message-Id:
Newsgroups: rec.autos.4x4,rec.autos
[More Headers]
On Sun, 22 Jun 1997 21:08:28 GMT, timcook@ (NZ8J) wrote:
>1995 Isuzu Trooper (UX) approximately 1500 pages exc cond $20.00
>
>1995 1/2 Isuzu Rodeo (UC) approximately 1500 pages new wrapped $25.00
>
>1990/1991 Isuzu Amigo/Isuzu Pickup (TC/TF) 2 volumes approximately
>1700 pages new wrapped $30.00
>
>1995 Isuzu Service Plus "1995 LV Owners Manuals Reference Book"
>owners manuals/warranty information/4-wheel drive supplement for
>Rodeo/Pickup/Trooper. All in one book 200+ pages. exc cond $15
>
>$75 for complete set.
>
>all prices plus shipping (they're heavy!!)
>Please email direct for more info.
>Thanks
>Tim
TOP TEN VEHICLE MODS (swiped from Big Bronco page)
This is an informal listing of popular modifications to late model Isuzu trucks. In no way is this a definitive listing but, may assist you in preparing your truck for the road or trail.
Suspension/Shock Upgrades/Tires - Suspension Lifts allow bigger tires and more suspension travel. Keeping your rubber on the ground is key to traction. Shock upgrades offer better handling characteristics on and off the road. Good quality tires benefit ride and traction - the added height is the only way to put more space between your differentials and the ground.
Extrication Equipment (winches, recovery straps, hi lift jacks)- What goes in must come out! A winch may be out of your budget but, don't go anywhere without a quality strap and jack(s).
Tow Hooks - Correctly (frame) mounted tow hooks are essential and the only safe way to extricate a vehicle
Tool Kits and Spare Parts - This deserves a list of it's own but, start by organizing a kit of essential tools, duct tape, wire, all fluids.... Know what tools and parts are required to maintain/repair your rig (i.e. u-joints, axles, fuel pump, etc., etc.). Begin stockpiling spare parts - you're gonna need 'em when you least expect it!
Roll bar/cage - A quality cage/bar is a must. It could save your life, and save your vehicle from some serious damage in a roll over - don't leave home without one. Roll bar kits are available.
Traction-Adding Devices- Locking and limited slip differentials offer the ultimate in traction.
Attention, Isuzu Enthusiasts
Our responsibility is far from over. This is our opportunity to do several things:
Aftermarket manufacturers who see that Isuzus are a viable market for the development and sale of performance parts by the content of what SCC writes, will be more receptive to the idea of designing and producing parts for our vehicles.
Isuzu enthusiasts who have Internet access but are not aware that we are here will be made aware of our presence.
Isuzu enthusiasts who do not have Internet access will be introduced to our group and made aware of our existence.
Import enthusiasts may be encouraged to also become Isuzu enthusiasts to join our group.
Won't it just be cool to see Isuzus in print?
We need to do everything in our power to make SCCs job as easy and as pleasant as possible. If they discover that they like working with us, they may decide that they want to work with us more often, and do more stories on Isuzus, maybe even your Isuzu.
heater hose for onboard shower
ITOG
The Isuzu Trooper Owners Guild is for owners of ALL Isuzu built SUV's.
Troopers, Rodeos, Amigos, Jackaroos, Fronteras, Panthers, SLXs,
Passports, Montereys, even the new VehiCross.
Our web site is open to all and we have an open forum called the ISUZU DISCUSSION. It is very active and the folks are owners and technicians who have years of information for all Isuzu owners.
Check it out!
Online aftermarket catalogs, online corporate information, even an online AIMI regional office locator.
If you wish to join the group, you will receive in addition to the free and open web site, 1 year subscription to the ITOG TROOPER newsletter, an ITOG window sticker and ITOG lapel pin. All this for only $15.
Coming soon, Genuine Isuzu parts at 15% off list and NO SHIPPING CHARGES just for being a member! Also if you join you are eligible for ITOG-MODs, 5%-10%-15% of regular prices from MAJOR Isuzu aftermarket manufacturers.
All you really need is an Isuzu truck and a willingness to modify it and then document these modifications. HTML skills are not required -- we can help with that. Vendors are sometimes willing to provide accessories at a substantial discount to builders of project trucks, but that's not guaranteed. What is guaranteed is a wealth of technical assistance, both from the manufacturers and from the staff at Off-.
Ideally, we'd have a project rig from each of Isuzu's major body types: an Amigo, a Rodeo/Passport, a Pickup, an early model Trooper, and a late model Trooper. Please mail me to discuss this -- feature truck or no, I'd really like to get access to your current documentation and keep in touch for future projects.
If rust is a big problem where you live try this. When you first spot the rust, spray on some Easy-Off oven cleaner, wait five minutes then rub it off with a damp cloth.
To keep from making a big mess when changing your motor oil, slip a plastic bag over the filter after breaking it loose with the filter wrench. Then with one hand hold the neck of the bag tight against the engine block use the other to unscrew the filter. The mess will be contained within the plastic bag.
If you use your receiver hitch as an anchor point for your tow-strap the edges will quickly cut and ruin the strap. To help prevent this damage cut an old bicycle tube and put it over the end of the receiver.
A nice and clean way to store your chains. Take an empty gallon jug of antifreeze and cut the top off around the spout. It's an easy way to keep the interior of your 4x4 clean. The handle makes it easy to carry.
If your wiper arms aren't doing the job like they used to even after you replaced the blades. Check your wiper arms for an extra hole in which to put the tension spring. Sometimes you can drill one with minimal effort. If you can move the spring it will put more tension on the blade.
If you need an add-on tow hook but don't have room to drill any holes in the back of your rig. Purchase an 8" to 10" piece of 2" square tubing to fit in the back of your receiver hitch. Drill a hole for your hitch pin and then two more holes to bolt on the tow hook. It's fast and cheap!
For a quick and easy way to air down your tires. Try cutting off the end of a "Fix-a-Flat" can. To air down screw the end on to the valve stem until the desired pressure is achieved.
When you go out wheelin' sometimes the brush will move your side mirrors and you have to re-adjust them when the trail is over. Take some fingernail polish and mark the mirror at both ends so that all you have to do is line up the marks and drive away.
Brake fluid bottles aren't always easy to pour the fluid out of. Especially into small clutch master cylinders on some of the new trucks and cars. Get an old dish soap bottle, clean it extremely well and dry thoroughly. Fill with brake fluid, now you have an easy fill bottle.
To avoid large oil spills such as when you change transmission fluid . Get a garbage pail lid and drill some holes near the center. Place it over your regular drain pan and you have a large funnel ready to catch any fluids. This will save you time you could spend doing something more productive.
If you haven't invested in an onboard air compressor for your four wheeler, here is a temporary air system. Using a old spark plug that fits your engine, remove the ceramic part of the plug and tap it to 1/4" pipe thread. Get an air hose fitting with 1/4" thread (available at your local hardware store) and screw it into the plug, a regular airhost and tire inflator will then hook up to your hollow plug. When you need air, install the plug onto one of your cylinders, hook up the hose, start the engine and inflate the tire.
To find the right air pressure to run in your tires on pavement. Find some smooth concrete and wet a section about 3 feet wide by 8 feet long. Over inflate your tires and drive through the water and see how much tire is making contact with the ground by looking at the pattern of water left on the concrete. Air down until the water pattern and your tread width measure the same. Note: front and rear tire pressure may not be the same.
DAVE GRAY
want to dyno a mod. before and after -- probably can get if for free
want to see it as a how-to (or Holley Projection review -- jeep page)
can support Dyno test later - expect a full review later
when they give us a part, we guarantee that we'll do a "timely, professional review,"
FACTUAL, include criteria we'll use to review in original request - quality of product,
performance gains, etc. Don't limit superlatives, but don't rip the heart out of it -- the
range is lukewarm to excellent. Try to say not appropriate for MY application, might
be appropriate for different markets -- street trucks, etc. If it is crap, we can say that
we don't recommend you buy this part -- we want to advertise good products, bad
products dirty our name.
I need to call Steve and solicit product release sheets -- but they go through Dave
ORC official process
talk to Dave
commit to write and photo
prove that up front, own webpage, or can vouch for builder
schedule project
has to have ORC stickers
attend events, get out into eye
ask Dan if he'd be willing to show his truck with the sticker
I do understand that you have to believe that a market that will bear the cost of the product, and that the cost of that product must include production price, development cost, and some profit for CALMINI. Having said that:
I see an opening in the market for greasable shackle and spring hangar bolts. Currie Enterprises makes them in standard sizes for American rigs, and Northwest Offroad make's em for Toyotas, but nobody makes 'em for Isuzus. I'd buy them, so somebody else might, too.
ARB is now importing its full line snorkels that they buy from Safari Snorkels in Australia -- I know CALMINI stocks the ARB locker, so I think the business infrastructure is in place to import the snorkel for the Rodeo and Amigo. I don't think I'd buy one, but I have a friend in Maine who runs one, and is very pleased with it. This might not be a stock item, but I bet you could make money off a special order. I'm planning to document the snorkel install with Arnie and put it on the web page. Can I list you as a provider for this?
I'd like to see some superlow gearing developed for the Isuzu platforms. As written up in a recent mag, and as you know personally, George Reiswig up in Portland has developed a custom bell housing to mate an Isuzu engine with a Toyota gearbox, enabling use of Marlin Crawler gears. That's fine and it works, but it requires replacing the transmission, and I like the smooth-shifting and robust Isuzu transmission. There's a chap local to me here in Sacramento that owns JPEater, that makes a competitor product to Marlin's crawler. JPEater may be interested in developing a product to make this gearing happen. I'm going to be in touch with him to get him copies of the factory manuals, and potentially to get him a look inside an Isuzu transmission for measurement and planning. Would CALMINI be interested in helping to develop, test, or market this product? I'll get you information to contact this guy, if you wish.
ARB Snorkel - ARB is now importing its full line snorkels that they buy from Safari Snorkels in Australia -- I know CALMINI stocks the ARB locker, so I think the business infrastructure is in place to import the snorkel for the Rodeo and Amigo. I don't think I'd buy one, but I have a friend in Maine who runs one, and is very pleased with it. This might not be a stock item, but I bet you could make money off a special order. I'm planning to document the snorkel install with Arnie and put it on the web page. Can I list you as a provider for this?
I have brought back the Off- News Server to centralize your
newsgroup posts and to further add features to our Off-Road Community,
ON-Line Destination.
This server traffics public and private newsgroups as follows:
Public:
rec.autos.4x4
You can call any of these newsgroups and launch a newsreader from IE3.0+
or Netscape 3.0+ by prepending the following text in a link on any of
your pages.
Example, to seek and read all articles in "off-road.vw_sand"
"news://unix.off-road.vw_sand"
This will launch the newsreader portion of your Internet Suite.
If you use a news reader not associated with an Internet Suite like
Netscape or MS Internet Explorer, simply point your newsreader client to
"news.off-" and subscribe to the newsgroups listed above.
PJC
measure hub to fender left, and right, ten inch actual difference (stock springs)
link for software to download videos
ORC guest list
dgilbert@; ashennin@; redhawk@; grovfam@; timdaffin@; rendelga@.id; FISHHEAD@; bmwpower@; mhalley@; edrew@ns.; dwp4806@unc.wil.edu
Custom Springs: The number at Bettes is 510-352-0111
Super droop snubbers -- stock vs. replacement
Header/Exhaust pictures: stock header, CALMINI header, stock exhaust, CALMINI exhaust, George Exhaust, stripped down side of engine
picture sequences for AVIs
Golden Steps Moab picture
Double Whammy Moab picture
Bikini top writeup
Steve@Calmini 800 345-3305 fax 805-398-9555
> ARNIE QUESTION: will CALMINI's rodeo front skid plate which now comes with
> its own cross member fit the amigo??? I don't have any rodeos around
> to measure to see if the bolt patterns are identical.
> also, will the transmission skid plate which CALMINI sells for the amigo (though
> I think it is made by someone else) be compatible with the new rodeo
> front skid plate???
Specific Requests of CALMINI - hopefully to be filled ASAP, if pictures are on hand
pictures of installed and uninstalled cat-back exhaust system
Copy of shackle/bushing installation instruction
Specific Requests of CALMINI - Later Requests
Start engaging product evaluation process: Rodeo skidplate, ARB locker, cam
I need a project truck lead on: a Late-model Trooper/SLX
I need a project truck lead on: Rusty Everett's San Francisco Monster Cable Project Truck
Isuzu race truck slides
ComingSoon pictures of in-house trooper
Articles waiting on pictures/specs/product
header article - install, product eval. with pix, but no dyno (Randy Burleson)
Future project will include:
Dan Evander's CALMINI-lifted Rodeo
Dan Houlton's Amigo (CALMINI cam and header, soon to install and document lift)
Documenting CalMini's in-house early model year Trooper
1998 Rodeo this fall, with 5 link coil spring rear (same as product line in Europe, or back of Trooper here)
I need leads on:
Late-model Trooper/SLX
Rusty Everett's San Francisco Monster Cable Project Truck (new CALMINI Rodeo/Passport lift)
Factory Trip
I'll visit CalMini's factory in 9/97-10/97. Hopefully shoot production/ development pictures, 1998 Rodeo, 1990 CALMINI Trooper.
Press Releases
ORC needs CALMINI to document recently-released and soon-to-be-released products (e.g. rear axle truss/skidplate, Rodeo skidplate, new Rodeo/Passport lift, V6 headers, etc.) as done on the Suzuki page. Route these through Dave Gray in Marketing but cc: me so that I can keep him on schedule.
Think of these ways you can get free advertising at ORC: Project Vehicle, Press Releases, Project Evaluation, Provide Technical Expertise
ISUPAGE Truck and SUV Links
Isuzu Trooper Owners Guild
(ITOG) Covering information for all Isuzu SUVs
ITOG's
CALMINI Performance Parts Page
ITOG's Energy
Suspension Performance Parts Page
ITOG's
Gavin Industries Wilderness Accessories Page
ITOG's
John Baker Performance Parts Page
ITOG's
Quadratec Hard and Soft Top Page
Club UBS Isuzu
SUV Links Page
Popular Science's SUV Page
WWW.'s
Isuzu 4X4 Page
Brandon Bell's
Isuzu Trooper Page
LYLE'Z Planet Zuzu
The
Weems Isuzu Trooper Page
Ians
Adventure in the Woods; With His 1989 Isuzu Trooper
Dan Evander, Jr.'s
Isuzu Rodeo Page
Michael Levine's Isuzu
Pickup Page
e40's Isuzu Minitruck
Page
CALMINI The Number One
Manufacturer and Supplier of ISUZU SUV Parts
Quadratec Online Catalog
The Posting Boards at
The Rodeo Board
The Trooper
Board
The Amigo Board
Mark's 4x4
Engine Conversion Kits for Isuzu SUVs
CALMINI Products announces a 3-inch suspension system for Isuzu Rodeos/Honda Passports. The kit features a 25% increase in spring rate for
improved highway handling and accommodates up to 32-inch-tall tires without further modifications. Components include two front control arms, two
heavy-rate front torsion bars, four shocks, rear leafsprings, longer, heavy-duty rear shackles, hardware, and instructions.
idea: writeup and picture earl's hose installation
Submit Evander's Crown trail report as a trail report and then link to it
get action pix of Evander's Rodeo for photo album
move Geogre's pix from proj_sam.html to photo.html
add some sort of pix to trailrid.html (group shot would be great)
bigger project images on main page -- change from 33% to 50%
Uzi- parts/mods list, plus picture series (stock to present, like Evander)
late model Rodeo uses the same tranfer case innards, BUT a different transfer case outer with a bolt-on yoke instead of a slipshaft, as on all 2.6L 4x4 trannies. My transmission guy says that this is a straight boltup. So, if ya got a lot of travel and you're worried about hyper-extending your slip joint, just swap the entire rear cover from the Rodeo V6 transmission onto the 2.6 transmission/transfer case.
find engine with transmission bell housing larger than Isuzu, and an adapter plate is pretty straightforward, you just do a heavy ring bolted to the Isuzu transmission first (these bolts will be flush and inside the effective perimeter of the bell housing after the engine goes on) and then bolted to the engine from the outside
Arnie Mahachek
10416 Leslie Court
Silver Spring, MD 20902
JOHTUR@gwgate1.jhmi.jhu.edu
If I could just find the connectors that Isuzu
uses on the computer inputs in a maile/female pair, I'd create my own extension
and mount the damn computer on a sun visor.
Now all I need to do is some fine grinding on the rear pinion yoke to accomodate my (brace yourself) 22 degree at-rest driveshaft angle. My driveline guy assures me that u-joints can live that long in that environment as long as vibrations are minimized. The clamp-on spring saddles made adjusting the pinion angle quite painless. One of these u-joints is a short term solution, anyway, since a Toyota transfer case (however I get to that end) requires a flange yoke up front and an integral slip-yoke. If I've thrashed a u-joint in that short of time, I'll just rotate the pinion up and punt to a CV shaft.
A quick trip to the salvage yard Friday (the day they send out their scrap) netted me the complete aluminum casings for the transmission and transfer case. Cost me a 12 pack of pepsi -- what a deal. Prototyping may actually get an early start, since I may run down to Fresno this weekend to see Marlin on Friday night and run a trail on Saturday. That would be WAY cool. He's said that he'd like to see the aluminum casings and a main output shaft before he recommends a specific model of Toyota transfer case, splined-sleeve coupler, or intermediate (between stock transfer/tranny) plate. All I need to make that visit is a rear output shaft, and I can borrow that even if I can't acquire one free and clear by Friday.
I'd also like to ask him how to zero in on making the housing's shaft centerlines overlap as perfectly as possible. Some marine references I looked at this weekend specify a maxim non-concentricity of five thousandths. Wow. George, how did you determine the centerline of the shaft and then set about lining them up? It would seem that your application allows a little bit more slop, with the clutch plate, but you still had to get the tolerances CLOSE!
Headlight Bridge
From: "Charles B. Andes"
In the stock configuration when you switch on the 'high' beams the 'low' beams go off -- but sometimes you want both lighting patterns, and thus both lights.
Now I have the setup that allows both high and low beams on when in high setting, or only the high beams, and also low beams only in low setting. Now I can see both near
and far in high, and don't bother anyone in low.
On my Tracker, which is ground control, I used the Radio Shack diode,
PN276-1185, a diode bridge good for 25Amps at 50 volts. On the ground
side the the bulbs, the cathode (+) goes to the high beam control and
the anode (AC) goes to the low beam control. (The other three diodes are
unused.
Usually, the headlights are hot voltage controlled, just put the diode
in the other way. This part is heat sinked and easily mounted with a #8
screw to a metal part. In some cases, you may have to increase the fuse
a little also, 15A to 20A.
Another benefit, if a high beam bulb burns out, you will still have a
light on that side. Much safer and the cops will go on by. Could take
this one step further and turn on the fog lamps also. I suggest turn on
the low beams first, then go to high so that you limit the surge current
instead of turning all 4 lamps on at once.
Regards, Chuck
------------------------------
As promised to Neil, the following is a list of parts I needed to convert
a Frigidare A-4 (GM) compressor to an air compressor:
- - low side oiler is a tool lubricator from Sears, Part # 282.18072,
approximately $35.00. The intended mounting bracket is $17.00. I
fabricated mine from 2" flat aluminum stock.
- - Intake filter is Grainger Part # 4Z679, 2" h x 6" diam. w/ K&N type
filter and 1" intake, price $18.50.
- - 2 mushroom shaped 4 way manifolds connected for 6 inlet, outlets;
available from multiple sources.
- - 125 psi safety valve, Grainger Part # 5A708, $6.75.
- - Compact 1/4" M/M check valve between compressor and tank (in case the
compressor is lossy as in retired from A/C use), Grainger Part # 6D914,
price $5.99.
- - 20-100 psi pressure switch, Grainger Part # 5B418, preset @ 80-100 psi
(great for ARB lockers), $13.77. Mine actually operates from 83 - 97
psi.
- - Under hood 200 psi guage
- - In dash, backlit 200 psi guage
- - Locking T-handle throttle to bump rpms and promote faster tank fills
when working with hand tools, NAPA part # 731-1103, approximately $19.00.
I thought about using a throttle as found on gasoline driven contractor
compressors but this hand throttle will also help with winching, etc.
I used 1/4" fittings throughout and a high quality 3/8" rubber hose for
plumbing.
TIPS
Buy guages with approximately twice your pressure operating level; guage
readings are typically not accurate on the extremes.
You'll need a truckload of tees, connectors, various fittings, and
possibly pipe (for the intake stem) depending on your configuration.
Draw diagrams with ALL fittings shown to eliminate a dozen return trips
to your favorite parts supplier.
1" chair tips available at Wal-Mart are a snug fit on standard size
female quick connects (keeps the dirt out).
Salvage the stock hoses if possible. Fabricating fittings for an A-4
would be kinda tough.
Grainger is at
I think they have a presence in all 50 states plus Mexico.
See this URL for more converted a/c tips and other cool stuff. This guy
converted a York in a Wrangler. Might be of more interest than the A-4
since it will not require auxilliary lubrication. He also gives tons of
detail and good pointers on rounding up parts.
------------------------------
Houlton > Maybe adding a disclaimer would help add to the credibility. That
> the pictures came from CalMini, but the opinions are strictly mine.
Actually -- I think that's probably a good CYA step to implement in
all reviews -- I'll try to write it down and remember it.
(2.5 degree difference between pinion centerline and botton face of casting)
one piece semi-floating non-c-clip rear ends
----------
From: Burleson, Randy
Sent: Friday, September 19, 1997 10:30 AM
To: 'houlster@.com'
Subject: RE: FW: Cam article
There's still a chance of getting the SC smogged. The kits they produce are smog legal, so an install from their components may be smoggable as well.
Whew -- not in CA, maybe in AZ?
Cost of the unit itself is $1500. I figure I should be able to do the pluming, fuel, etc. for another $1000.
Didn't realize they were that reasonable. LOVE to see the
pioneering done for me. ;) LOVE to see it on the webpage,
as well.
The only thing I'm not too sure about is the fuel
We have a high pressure fel pump, that would probably work. At worst, you'd
need to adapt a HIGH VOLUME, high pressure pump, but those are only a few
hundred.
and computer.
Well, my LIMITED understanding is that as long as you blow through the MAF
sensor, the computer will figure things out. In a pressurized environment, sparks
are harder to light, but the Jacobs ignition should help there. They also offer
products to retard timing in high pressure environs, if that is needed.
I wonder how pressurizng the system would affect the various vaccum fittings
on these engines? You could move some of them to upstream of the 'charger,
that way they'd get vacuum instead of pressure....
Actual cost is still a little cheaper and I won't have the headache of ripping my engine bay apart and splicing in wiring for a new engine.
I didn't think of this until now, but I'm sure I'd have major problems with the A/C as well. Minimum would be draining and re-charging, but would likely take some custom pluming to make it work.
Definitely problems -- pretty easy plumbing, actually, but an additional pain
in the ass that you'd not have to deal with if you supercharged.
Besides, a SC just sounds a little more exotic to me. I've always rathered having a smaller, super-charged engine than a bigger one.
Me too -- I've been lusting to do it to my motorsickle -- but I'm game to do it
with my truck. Right now, with stomping the bugs out of my suspension,
maintaining and improving the webpage, and noodling on building a double
transfer case, my mental energy is just all tapped out.
Randii
A chap recently posted a brief description of how to do this that seemed generic to all vehicles.
I did this myself last year, and if you have a modern truck, odds are your headlight switchgear runs relays, which turn the juice on remotely. This makes it easy -- just install a diode to allow current to flow from the high beam switch lead to the low beam switch load, but not vice versa.
I took it one step further, since the CHPs like to bust us innocent citizens. ;) I installed a switch inline with the diode, so that I can run just stock beams or the diode-bridged hi and low.
Its a tremendious difference on an empty road, and for the price, I recommend it. If you haven't yet, also update your sealed beams to Hella replacement halogens for brighter, whiter lights.
And don't tell the CHP that I'm running 35/100W bulbs.
Randii
brake lines $100
brake pads and calipers $75
new rotors $80
kingpin shims $20
kingpin bearings $30
seals/grease/gaskets $100
welding $50
various metal stock $40
gears $200
poly spring/shackle bushings $40
proportioning valve $50
axle $60
steering arms $50
stock Toy junkyard springs $80
shackle sides $10
spring & shackle bolts $20
drag link
front driveshaft $100~$200
shocks ~$100
new springs $100~$200
Steve "Little Buddy" Gardiner's Feature truck
I will be monitoring it very closely. I think my game plan will be to add a
roll-bar sooner than later. With the rough 4-wheeling I do, this is probable
long overdue!
If you guys have some good pictures and or procedures for the roll-bar I
would be grateful.
1990 Amigo, bought new. First off-road damage 1-month later. (Just a small
dent.)
1) ARB in the back, compresor under the hood
2) Isuzu limited slip in the front
3) Cal-Mini 3 inch lift
4) Homemade rear bumper (2 x 4 rectanguar tubing)
5) Custom nerf bars (expensive, but very, very functional) out of 1 3/8 inch round tubing. These fit tight to the body, so as not to loose to much ground clearance. 2 plates with four bolts each attach to the frame and 4 attachment points along the sheet-metal tab were the rocker panel and the floor pan meet.
6) Lots of stereo
7) Extra skid plates
8) Usually have a Yakima roof rack, with a basket on top
9) Some extra lights on the roof rack
10) 32 x 11.5 BFG MT's
11) Center-console
12) Usually have a large, lockable, bolt-in tool box, in place of the rear seat. (A customized version of a truck box. Double doors that open forward. This way all my tools and recovery equipment are accessed from behind the seats, instead of being buried in the back. And everthing is secure from the not so honest people. The tool box stretches from wheel-well to wheel well, so it make a excellent back-stop for everything stored in the back.)
13) Customized fender flares (dents?) on three corners. I keep the drivers-side front in good shape.
14) Best-Top top. My factor top fit much better and was more water-tight, but I do like the Best-Top rear window.
15) Other Cal-Mini Stuff
Wish list:
1) Lock-up the front (live axle or Isuzu, I don't care)
2) Lower gearing
3) A little more ground clearance
4) Make a custom front bumper, with winch mount.
Just try to find a U-joint yoke (let alone a joint) that will live at 28 degrees. What I've got is Porsche 930 joints, at both ends of my front driveshaft, with a double-spline axle shaft in between them.
Yes, but they do this after the reduction gearing of the differential. Putting the CVs in the driveshaft runs 'em 4.55 times faster in my truck -- which is less of a big deal on the front 'shaft, but possibly an issue on the rear 'shaft, which regularly twists up to 80mph.
As for strength, it's not a major issue with a driveshaft, as much as it is with an axle; since there's about 4-5 times less torque on the drive shaft, strength is not the problem. Speed, however, can be. At very high angles, they can generate heat, and enough heat will cook the grease out. Even more heat can seize the joint, or un-heat-treat the shaft. As long as you use high-grade extreme pressure CV grease, though, they're pretty happy. I don't know what longevity would be like in constant use. I haven't had mine in long enough to have needed to maintain any of them, except for torn-up boots because of not setting the front end up right at first (leaving out c-clips, dropping shafts out of joints, etc.) I do know that they tend to heat up at speed, and will tend to cook the grease out if you don't use a good CV grease.
On the 930 joints, the bolt pattern is six on about 3.75" (I think it's actually metric, but I didn't measure for exact dimensions; I used one as a template) and the spline pattern is 28-spline (Ford 9" spec). Actually, the bolt holes (and flat sides) go all the way through; it's what's called a "pancake" joint. You can actually flip it over and put it in backwards, but it's not wrong to do that. There is no real backwards to install it; both sides are virtually identical.
Randy: output flange width is 4.125 instead of 4.25
Yes, this is true. I don't know how they'd do at maximum angle (supposedly 26 degrees for continuous operation) at that speed, but I'm sure that at 10 degrees or so, they'd be happy as clams, even at 80.
I know that they say that the maximum operating angle is 26 degrees, and they also say that the joints won't actually flex farther than that when installed. I think mine are nearly 30 degrees, but it's difficult to measure compound driveshaft angles.
Interesting -- its easy enough to cut the clip grooves, the trick is finding (or having made) the shaft in the right length.
Actually, after some research, I found that if you're running 930 joints on both ends, Sway-A-Way makes VW halfshafts in most any length on up to about 29 inches, in two to three inch increments. I don't know what the price tag looks like on one, but they make 'em as a stock item, so they can't be more than about $100 apiece.
If you get into something more custom, Moser will make just about anything your heart desires. Single shafts run $150 to spec, any spec, and pairs $295. I imagine they'd start to have trouble making a shaft longer than
about 30 inches, but they were OK with my 28" driveshaft.
So your slip comes in the actual splines built into the CV? Clever trick.
Actually, yes and no. Some does come from the splines in the CV, but the majority of it comes from the plunge design of the CV joint itself. You see, the joint looks just like a standard six-ball-in-grooves CV, but the grooves are angled, and the inner section can plunge in and out of the outer, even at angle. Gotta love that German engineering. :)
I was thinking that I'd run the following:
• pinion flange
• flat yoke
• u-joint
• tube yoke
• tubing
• inner slip splines
• shaft with slip-matched splines one end, CV-matched splines on other
• CV
• transfer case flange
Did you machine a spacer plate with an internal shoulder to center against the yoke, or just bolt up the flat side of the CV and shoot for getting it as close as possible.
I made spacers, but they're just a ring with holes going through it. The spacers are needed because of the through portion of the shaft, and to allow for some plunge action to occur. With a flat, shoulderless flange, you could probably get away without a spacer, but then you'd lose part of the function of the 930 joint, which is it's plunge action.
Agreed --- I think the real shortfall of this system is in decreased joint life due to the rotational speeds. This will probably steer me towards exhausting more conventional techniques first. If I can just get that vibration to go away, this issue goes away.
Yes, the setup does tend to go through joints. From what I can tell, 930 joints should last more or less forever, since they're totally rebuildable, with no parts inside that would wear out. There's only nine parts in a 930 joint anyway; the case, center, cage, and six balls. Everything is high-grade steel, and I don't forsee anything wearing out, unless you lube it with sand instead of grease.
As for load-bearing ability, they run 130+mph in BMW's (Porsche 930 joints are actually BMW factory parts) and in 500+hp sand drag hot rods, and also in SCORE Class 1 off-road buggies. As for absolute torque limits, I don't know what they are, but I'd say that I have no chance of ever getting close; word is that the shaft will break long before that happens. I just did break one of my prototype front halfshafts last weekend. It was a resplined shaft, so I know that it was relatively weak where it broke because of the machining required to re-spline it. I imagine that it's higher in overall strength than a U-joint of similar size (which would be something like a 1410 joint)
What I have connecting my front output flange to my front diff companion flange is a giant half-shaft. It has CV's on both ends, and the transfer-case end one is at its maximum available angle. The shaft itself is a Ford 9" axle, 28-spline, with snap ring grooves (c-clips) on both ends to keep the shaft from pulling out. There is probably a total of 3" available slip travel in the front shaft, but that's not enough for a straight axle.
As for an adapter shaft to mate the 930 to a slip yoke, if you' provide spline size(s) and lengths, Moser will make any single shaft for $150, but then you still need to come up with a yoke for the other end, and the rest of the actual shaft.
> I'm going to purchase a used Amigo. (I can get a 2WD one for short money.) I was wondering if this conversion is possible?
Anything is possible, given enough time and dollars. I don't want to discourage you from this, but it will definitely take plenty of both, and if you do it, I'd love to help you document the process for the webpage.
> If so, where can I locate the parts necessary?
There are Isuzu-specific salvage yards that would be sure bets for parts, but they won't be cheap. Your best bet would be finding a wrecked donor vehicle.
Try
> How much will it cost?
Your most expensive item will be the transmission and transfer case, which will run you more than a grand, probably. Dunno about the rest of the bits and pieces. I have some stuff left over from my swap, but I think you'd spend an easy grand on the front drivetrain, as well. If you are serious about the swap, we'll talk about my extras. Again, I don't want to discourage, but with some careful shopping you might find a better deal on a 4WD.
> Is it more than buying a used 4WD Amigo (currently ~8000).
All depends on your 2WD original purchase price.
> What parts will I need?
front axle center section/differential, front driveshaft, transmission/transfer case, halfshafts, spindles, 4WD disk brake hub, locking hubs
If you wanted to do the Toy live axle swap, it might save a few bucks since the parts are more available, BUT it requires more fabrication. The 2WD to 4WD conversion would probably be mostly a bolt-on.
Keep in touch with your decision,
Randy Burleson
Editor, Isuzu Webpages
* Gear ratios (:1): 1st gear: 3.77; 2nd gear: 2.25; 3rd gear: 1.40; 4th gear: 1.00; 5th gear: 0.81; Reverse: 3.87
* Automatic transmission (optional): Electronically controlled 4-speed with overdrive, driver-selectable power mode and 3rd-gear winter start mode, and torque-converter lockup in 2nd, 3rd and 4th gears
* Gear ratios (:1): 1st gear: 2.86; 2nd gear: 1.62; 3rd gear: 1.00; 4th gear: 0.72; Reverse: 2.00
* Axle ratios (front/rear): 4.1:1/4.1:1 (4.3:1/4.3:1 with 16" wheels)
* Transfer case ratios: 1.00:1 high, 2.28:1 low
* Frame: Box-section ladder type with 6 crossmembers
* Brake configuration: 11.0" ventilated front disc/12.3" ventilated rear disc
* Steering: Engine-speed sensing variable-assist power, 3.6 turns lock-to-lock
* Overhang (front/rear): 28.4/39.4 in
* Ground clearance (at differential): 8.1 in (8.5 with 16" wheels)
* Angle of approach/departure (degrees from horizontal): 37/25 (39.1/26.9 with 16" wheels)
How do you reset to o2 light once you replace the sensor???
I asked the very same question on a different discussion forum. Here is a description of the procedure. I have not personally attempted this as it appears to be a bit of work. I simply live with the light on for now.
Okay here is what you do: The O2 Sensor is connected to a Switch located in the Speedometer head unit. There are 3 milege counters, 1 for vehicle, 1 for trip and 1 for the 02 sensor. You have to remove the 2 screws to remove this and then remove the switch (2 more screws) The last number wheel has a cam on it that allows the switch to switch on. After you remove the switch you can rotate the last number wheel (It's spring loaded, and the switch must be removed to reset it.) You then can rotate it so the Cam is no longer in effect. IE: O2 light off. But you will have to do this every 90K. An Easier way would be to pull the SpeedOmeter head unit out and cut the White or Blue wire going to this switch (The yellow wire on my unit isn't going to anything.) This still enables the O2 sensors but gets rid of the 90K Maintance light. You could even remove the 3'rd counter that the O2 sensor swith is mounted on. Good Luck.
Let me tell you a little story. If you want to do all that work, well go ahead. If you want an easier suggestion, listen in. Once you have removed the cluster, look on the back ( printed circuit). There are 2 screw holes that are marked "KSW", one of those holes has a screw, the other doesn't, take the screw out of one and put in the other. BOOM your light is out
I have a '93 Rodeo and with a primary goal in increacing its miles/gallon, I did somthing about it. I originally started off with a reusable, free flowing conical shaped air filter in place of the stock filterbox and stock filter. The truck was able to breathe in a lot more air. Unfortunately, the air was still hot coming from inside the engine bay and was still naturally aspirated. So I ditched the filter and made a "ram air" system. I don't know if it is even illigal here in CA but it passes smog tests. I'll attepmt to describe how I made it and what materials I used. First, I plugged up the entrance into the filter box. Second, I had cut holes through the filter box (bottom) and the leftside front wheel well to fit a 6" to 4" dia. reducer. I glued the reducer to the filter box only. Third, I ran about 20" length 5"dia. hose (located inside the fender well) from the first reducer to a 5"dia. 90 degree elbow piece (this elbow is the main intake and is located at the lower left front, directly under the air dam). I obtained all parts (except the K&N air filter) frorm a hardware store. The the reducer and 90 degree elbow are ABS plastic plumbing parts, the hose is a heat and water resistant type, and all these parts were held together with 4 stainless steel hose clamps (this system is air tight). I spent less than $100 for parts(including the air filter upgrade). However, it took me about 6 hrs. in labor (and tweeking) time to finish (eliminating ground and tire clearance problems). I havn't encountered any problems since I put this in a year-and-a-half ago (but I wash and reoil my air filter every 3000 miles). By just looking at my truck the ram-air is hardly noticable. As a result, my truck feels faster and a get 18.5 mpg on highway. I have no idea if this basic design holds any patents nor do I care. I understand the saddening deficiency of performance parts for the Rodeo and so hope this might help someone in their persuit for performance and fuel efficiency.
the article on venting the diffs and tranny got me to looking around for other vulnerable items. the charcoal canister that vents fuel fumes worries me. if the gas tank is less than half full and is immersed in cold water suddenly, the air in it will contract and suck air in through the canister (as it is designed to do). the canister vent is a its bottom and is likely to be in the water so water will be sucked into the system to some degree. even if it can not get back to the gas tank immediately, there seems to be a route to the engine as part of the emission control system. i know from my saltwater fish days that the water will not hurt the activated charcoal but i dont like water in a fuel system as a matter of principle. since the canister vent is a projecting tube it should be easy to put a hose on it and run it where ever the other vent hoses go. of lesser concern is the belt driven air pump which puts air into the exhaust manifold.
Height Machine 988-4523
Carmichael Machine 944-2853
> I'd like some info about sending you some pictures of my 89 4X4 P'up.
> What do I do, when would they be posted etc. . .
Well, if you have them digitized, I can slap them up within a week or so in the photo album. If you've got some pictures of your rig four-wheeling, and have some specs on it, maybe we could work up a feature.
If your pictures are not digital, package them up really well and send them to my home: Randy Burleson, 4975 Amalfi Way, Fair Oaks, CA 95628
I'll scan them (probably in early January, when I get back from vacation) and then return the originals to you. Scanning is on a when-I-get-time-at-work priority list, so generaly takes at least a week and less than a month.
Randy Burleson, Editor
Isuzu Webpages at Off-
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