HISTORY OF MIDDLE MUSQUODOBOIT

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zhHISTORY OF MIDDLE MUSQUODOBOIT

The village of Middle Musquodoboit is located on the Musquodoboit River, about 23 miles southeast of Truro. The name is the anglicized version of the Indian name Mooskuduboogenek. The Indian name was Natkamkik the river extends uphill. Soon after Upper Musquodoboit was settled (spring 1784) William Guild, so it is reported, was the first white settler in Middle Musquodoboit. He came alone from Scotland and a year later his wife, three sons and two daughters arrived. His grant of land is dated March 1, 1787, ten grants of land in the Musquodoboit area were granted on March 1, 1787. William, the pioneer, settled where Melvin Higgins resides in 1983, often called The Sedgewick House. First he built a log cabin, later a frame house. William was drowned in the river near Mount William in Upper Musquodoboit and was buried on that hill. The original Guild house was built on the same site as the present house, which was erected in 1878 by William Guild, son of the pioneer. Later he sold it to William Sedgewick, his father Dr. Robert Sedgewick also moved here. The old Guild house was moved back a short space and used as a wood house. About 1800 John Layton settled where Mrs. George Fulton lives in 1983. Johnson Kaulback located on the present Hugh Kaulback property, first he built a log cabin in the orchard behind the present house, which was built about 1820 by pioneer Johns Kaulback. The Kaulbacks had the Post Office about 100 years, the Sam Hanna built the first Post Office in 1900. Over the years it was renovated until the present brick Post Office was opened May 5, 1959 with Wilfred Milne as Postmaster. In the early days the Kaulback house was a stagecoach stop and hotel. The bake oven is still in the basement. This property has been Kaulback property for five generations. In early years a tailor, Peter Clark, lived approximately where Raymond Ryan now lives in 1983. The road on which he lived was called Thimble Street. Alexander McCurdy came from Onslow in 1813 and settled on the North half of the 300 acre lot his father had purchased earlier. It was all woods. He built his house on the old road later, when the present road was built in 1847, he moved the house and barn to the present site. The house was later remodelled, in 1983 the home of Frank McCurdy and Mrs. Roy McCurdy. Matthew James McCurdy built his house on the same property now owned by Carl Gilroy. He was a carriage builder and his carriage shop was across the road, approximate site of George MacQuarries home. William (Billie) Logans property across the road from Conform Office was sold to Joseph Bruce, later purchased by Warren White and his father. This house was later demolished when the road was straightened.. The property now owned by Cyril Hubley in 1983 belonged to Robert, son of William and Sarah Logan. According to school records available at Public Archives, Middle Musquodoboit was called Middle Settlement. The first school was built on the site now owned by Mrs. Greta Dickie on the old road to Glenmore. It commenced on February 1, 1817. Peter Amiraux, one of the first teachers, was recommended for a provincial grant in 1817 by the following: James Benvie, J.P., Thomas McCallum, Adams Archibald J.P., Johnson Colbeck, M.T. Archibald, John Taylor, Hugh Archibald. At that time the School District was seven miles from school. Hugh Smith is listed as teacher October 1816-April 1817; Peter Amiraux 1817, 1818, 1819, 1820; John Wiseman (Army) 1821-1822; Andrew Muir; the trustees Hugh Archibald, David Archibald and William Logan. List of pupils for 1822: June 10 to November 30, 1828 teacher was John MacDonald. From December 1832 to June 1833 teacher John MacDonald with 61 pupils listed. In early days school masters boarded with the parents, the length of stay depending on number of children attending school. On weekends you could see the schoolmaster making the rounds of the village with his possessions. His clothes flutter and bagged in the wind like a scarecrow. The second school was built before 1860 on the same site as Austin Millers home. As the pupils increased, the community built a larger school of two rooms. The old school house was sold the William Sedgewick who used it as a carriage shop on the present Melvin Higgins property (1983). The third school was built about 1894 on the present school property. A third room was added. When this school ceased to be used the new room was sold to Raymond Ryan who converted it into a house. The fourth, a brick building, was built in 1964, a six room Elementary School, as children from surrounding areas are transported by buses. John Layton donated land to erect the first Presbyterian Church and in the autumn of 1814 a building committee was chosen. It was located about the centre of Pioneer Cemetery in the vicinity of the Kaulback lot. The first minister was Rev. James Laidlaw of Scotland. The second Church was dedicated December 1869 on the present site. It became the Middleton United Church after 1925. Early church records have been placed in Pine Hill Divinity Hall, Halifax, N.S. in their Archives. In 1830 Holy Trinity Church was built on LaPrairie Farm, Colonel Gladwins estate in Middle Musquodoboit. Little is known of early clergymen in this Church. Colonel Henry Arthur Gladwin died in 1881 at the are of ninety and is buried close to the Church. It apparently was abandoned by the Church of England about 1890, sometime after this, the old Church was sold at auction. In 1847 Rev. Sidney Smith Murkland was the first Congregational Minister to arrive in this area. At this time the Presbyterians and Congregationalists shared the same meeting house on alternate Sundays. Later they erected a small building of their own on the present Exhibition grounds in the vicinity of the old cow barns. Rev. Sidney Murkland made his home in a house located close by the Congregational Chapel. He remained about one and half years, going to Liverpool from here. Then came Rev. Joseph Peart, Rev. Charles Gaskin, and Rev. Joseph Sutcliffe. When the Methodists began here in 1855, many Congregationalists became converts to Methodism. Finally, the small chapel was sold to Charles Archibald who moved it across the road where he kept a general store, later to was sold to Arch Dickie for a machine shop. The Wesleyan Methodist Chapel was built in 1856 on a site donated by Dr. Harrison on a corner of the present Hillside Cemetery in the vicinity of graves of Capt. A.G. Morris and Mr. & Mrs. Harold Conrod. The Mission House was purchased in 1859, site was located near Gerald Cavicchis garage (1983). The Church records of 1865 refer to Middle Musquodoboit as Laytonville, Centre Musquodoboit as Kentville, Taylor Settlement, Little River (Elderbank). A new parsonage was built in 1882-84 and in 1983 is the residence of Mr. & Mrs. William McCurdy. In 1925 Presbyterians and Methodists formed the United Church of Canada. The Methodist Church burned in 1925. The new Rural High School was opened in September 1952. In 1830 Dr. William Harrison came to Halifax and settled in Middle Musquodoboit. He was born in Liverpool, England 1806, died July 18, 1864 aged 58 and is buried in Hillside Cemetery. First he lived on the site of Mrs. Ira McFetridges house, after he purchased an extensive homestead and built one of the finest residences in Halifax County. In 1910 it was purchased by the Agricultural Society along with seven acres and has been the main building of the building of the Halifax County Exhibition which was formed in 1885. In early days there were three hotels: the Kaulback house which was a stagecoach stop, hotel, post office, and the first bank was also here. Fairview Hotel was operated by Thomas Green, the Connaught Hotel was operated by C.F. Blackadar, now the home of Mrs. George Fulton. Later, Riverton Hotel was opened by Cumminger Holman, the site where Everett Yonke resides in 1983. In 1851 there was in Musquodoboit, St. Marys and Shubenacadie some 53 officers and eleven hundred men sufficient to have five companies. Lt. Colonel Henry Arthur Gladwin was officer in command of 5th Halifax Regiment Militia a position he retained for 31 years. His son, Lt. Col. A.S. Gladwin, took command until the militia disbanded in 1868. There was a rill shed on the site of Logan Brothers Drilling Company. On December 18, 1848 a charter was granted to the Rising Sun Division, Middle Musquodoboit with 15 charter members. They held their first meeting in the home of Robert A. Kaulback. The first hall was built in the vicinity of Parkers Esso (1983) but on April 26, 1885 this hall was destroyed by fire. The new Temperance Hall was built on the extreme West end of the manse property by Samuel Hanna in 1889. In 1939 the United Church purchased it. The Hall served as a library, rented for high school classes and at one time was a dwelling. The upstairs was used for Boy Scout meetings; in 1983 it is used as Encore Attic by the Enterprisers. In 1974 the building, rapidly becoming derelict, was taken over by the Enterprisers who, with a grant from the New Horizons program, restored the Hall. In 1983 the Enterprisers Centre is providing a most necessary meeting place for various organizations. In 1860 William Layton operated a store directly across from the Presbyterian Church. The store, now vacant, is owned by John Wilkinson. His brother, Francis, had a blacksmith shop which stood on the site of Haverstocks Pharmacy. The old road to Glenmore ran directly North of the pharmacy over Kaulbacks Hill, coming out by Mrs. Frances Hamiltons then up the hill to site of lime quarry where it branched out behind Florence Archibalds mill pond then on to the home of Mrs. Mildred Holmans, at that time the last house in Glenmore. The road to Upper Musquodoboit went down by the Fire Hall, up the hill behind Danny Ross in an easterly direction behind Frank McCurdys farm, the Benvie farm, the Fisk farm, the Fisher farm, etc. In early days the roads ran over the hills, in 1847 the present road was built and the residents moved their buildings down to present locations. In 1836 a ship The Royal Tar had a burning between St. John and Portland, Maine. On board was a circus comprised of birds, zebra, goat and an elephant. The circus played at Truro August 22 and 23, Stewiacke the 24th, Musquodoboit the 25th, Gays River the 26th, Dartmouth the 27th, Halifax a full week (Archives reference). The first Reid store was built in 1883 by A.J. Reid who sold it to Daniel Reid in March on 1885. After he was married in 1886, they lived in a small kitchen built on and upstairs over the main store. A back shop for feed, etc. was added to the main store in the early 1900s. This store was burned in August 1958. The present store was built in the fall of 1958 by Frank Holman. In 1983 it is operated by Jimmy Reid, grandson of Daniel Reid. Other early stores were owned by John Higgins, Sidney Lindsay (home of Ronald Guild, 1983) and Charles D. Archibald specialized in the flour and feed business on the present exhibition grounds. The Co-op Store is owned and operated by members in 1983. Ira J. McFetridge purchased his store February 1, 1914; later his son Donald operated it then sold it to Haverstock Pharmacy. Originally it was built by Sam Hanna in 1898 for Ainslie Shaw. Mr. Hanna also built the house for Mr. Shaw across from the Pharmacy. The first Bank was in the room built on the side of Hugh Kaulbacks home. The second Bank was built in 1920 by Joseph Holman; it was sold in 1982 and converted to a funeral home. The third Bank was opened October 18, 1982 situated beside the present Post Office. The Musquodoboit Valley Memorial Hospital, a Red Cross Output Hospital, opened its doors March 29, 1948. Dr. J.R. Cameron was the physician. This served the surrounding community until the present hospital was erected on the same site a little further West. The dedication ceremony took place October, 1976. In July of 1915 Musquodoboit celebrated The Centenary of Presbyterianism in the Musquodoboit Valley, 1815-1915. A small booklet The Centenary was published recording all the events. The Community Herald was first published in May 1927. It continued for about one and a half years. In early days most communities had their own blacksmith shops, grist mills, carpenters shops and carriage buildings. Our ancestors had their hardships. There was the year of the mice, year of the cold summer, in September 1792 there was a great freshet. Then in 1811 there was a big wind which blew down houses and did great damage. The following is a story of a tragedy in Musquodoboit which was written in the Centennial Book of 1915 by Samuel Hanna (Mrs. I.J. McFetridges father). In 1851, David MacKeen, John Reid, Joseph Parker and James Higgins attended a road sale at Ship Harbour. They went there to place a bid on a section of the Eastern Shore Road that was being let to contract for clearing the land and preparing the roadbed at a stated price. When the men were returning home on June 13, via Long Lake, their canoe foundered in the heavy swell caused by the high wind that was blowing. Indians from a nearby encampment heard the men shouting, but when they reached the lake no one could be seen and John Reids dog, Caesar, was bringing the mens hats ashore mute evidence of the tragedy. Frank Paul remarked sadly If only me had seen John Reid med have risked me life to save him. John Higgins made record time to Musquodoboit with news of the multiple fatality that involved so many families and cast a gloom over the whole valley. Search was made for the bodies and James Higgins, who could not swim, was found where the cane sank. The other men attempted to reach shore but the rough water and the steep banks of the lake prevented and they sank. The funeral for the three men was the largest gathering of its kind known in that area. D.W.B. Reid (Johns son) married a daughter of David MacKeen, so their descendants look back to a double tragedy in their ancestral background. Numerous descendants of the four men live in Musquodoboit and elsewhere. Special mention should be made of the loyalty and devotion of Caesar, the dog that lay under his masters coffin while it was in the home, refusing to leave until the remains were removed for burial, when he accompanied the procession to the cemetery. He was known to make one trip to the scene of the accident, but he would not enter the house again. In about three weeks the faithful animal had grieved himself to death. Unfortunately, early records of the establishment of the Musquodoboit Creamery are not available. Dr. Charles Henry Morris provided data that he worked on the Creamery while it was being built in 1893. It was closed during December 1961. In 1971 Everett Yonke purchased it and converted it into a dwelling. It burned in September of 1981. The soldiers monument was raised directly in front of the Church July 1921. The bronze figure of the soldier, in the uniform of the time, stands erect on a handsome pedestal. The model for the statue was the late Henry Gladwin. The railway station was built about 1916. The first station master was Henry Hall. After the station closed, being vacant it was demolished. The Railway Transport Committee had a meeting in Middle Musquodoboit in September 1980 as the Canadian National Railway wanted to abandon the line; it is still in occasional use in 1983. The Oddfellows Hall was built in 1928, costing eleven thousand dollars.

HIJACKING ON THE OLD GUYSBOROUGH ROAD

IN THE GAY NINETIES BY Capt. Charles Morris Gladwin

Away back in the gay nineties of the last century I was sent by my father to assist a dealer in cattle known as a drover. He went all over N.S. buying up cattle and driving them to Halifax to sell to the butcher who supplied the garrison, Army and Navy stationed there. He had taken in about 30 head of oxen and milk cows from Musquodoboit and had sold them. One fine moonlight evening we started from Dartmouth for Musquodoboit by the Old Guysborough Road. Mr. Cruickshank, the drover, had a fine spirited horse called Prince. He was a beautiful animal sixteen hands high and very powerful. He could go along eight miles an hour with a light express, fully loaded without being pushed. He seemed to enjoy his work, held his head high, ears constantly working as if to pick up any sound going, legs working freely like piston-rods of an engine. He never needed the whip, and if he was touched with it would fairly jump out of the shafts. We got to McDonalds road house at Fall River just about dusk, gave Prince a feed of oats. Mr. Cruickshanks and Mr. McDonald had a swig out of the little brown jug of which we had several in the express wagon for farmers up the valley to prime them up in the harvest time. Mrs. McDonald gave me a glass of buttermilk and a handful of cookies. When Cruickshanks had a few pulls from the little jug and Prince had his oats we hitched up and proceeded on our way to Pat Stones roadhouse where we intended to get our supper and give Prince a rest. It was a beautiful fine moonlight night clear as a bell and just cool enough to make Prince feel frisky as he knew he was homeward bound. The roads were fairly good as roads went in those days. These were always at their best in the month of July when the frost had all gone out of the roads and settled down until the frost of December. Some parts of the road, the spruce, pine and fir made a canopy over the roads and in these spots the air would be fairly chilly and the smell of the pine and balsam trees very fragrant. Mr. Cruickshanks had several swigs from the little brown jug and began to sing, Roll Along Silvery Moon, Guide the Traveller on His Way, and By the Light of the Silvery Moon, etc. etc. He was feeling very happy and everything looked rosy with the help of the little brown jug the smell of the woods and the light of the moon and the glow of the fireflies in all directions in the forest. At last he became sleepy and gave me the rains saying, Charlie, just let Prince jog along at his own gait and let me know when Pat Stones house comes in sight. He held the whip in his hand, laying over his shoulder and was soon fast asleep with his head resting on his chest. At the intake of his breath he snored like a buzz-saw cutting through knotted timber and at the discharge of his breathing it was like to sound of escaped steam from the driving rods of a locomotive engine. For awhile I was wide awake with the importance of my job of driving Prince, whom Mr. Cruickshank never let any one draw rein over but himself. The influence of the moonlight, the fragrance of the pine and balsam woods and the soothing effect of the Jamaica rum had mellowed his mind. He had trusted his noble steed and the safety of his neck to a weary boy, who was dying for sleep after all the excitement of a week in the city for the first time in his life. The rhythm of Mr. Cruickshanks snoring and the clipperty-clopping of Princes feet soon had me snoozing when a gruff whoa there made me come to with a jump. Prince was rearing on his hind legs and a man with a slouch, wide rimmed hat and a mask was jerking his bridle rein, singing out your money or your life. Mr. Cruickshanks came to all standing and he hit Prince a cut with the whip around his flank. Prince bolted, knocking the robber sprawling on the road. I was holding on the rein like grim death. Mr. Cruickshanks fell back among the groceries, rum jugs and molasses kegs. The whip caught in the spokes of the rear wheel and was lost overboard. Prince galloped for about a mile before I could get him under control and help Mr. Cruickshanks back on the seat. He said Charlie what the H happened didnt you see that man before he caught hold of the bridle rein? I said, No Sir, I must have dozed off for a second or two. Dozed off he said, be damned, do you know boy I have over a thousand dollars in my purse and that man mist have been waiting there for us and probably was armed. Now, boy, let that be a lesson to you, never go to sleep when you are driving a horse. This is the first time I ever let anyone drive Prince and it will be the last. Now, boy, dont ever breathe a word of this to a living soul as nobody would trust me with their money again. I was so scared I was chattering as if I was at the North Pole. Finally we arrived at Pat Stones, I unhitched Prince, who was in a lather of sweat, rubbed him down and put a rug over him to let him cool off before giving him water and oats. Mr. Cruickshanks and Pat had a swig of the jug and Pat told me to go to the house to get warmed. There was a light in the kitchen and smoke pouring out of the stovepipe going straight up in the clear air. I opened the door and stepped into the kitchen and there was Pats wife, the famous Biddy Stone, of whom I had often heard my father speak. She was well known to all travellers who used the Guysborough Road. She was a buxom big woman about 220 pounds with rosy cheeks and smoking a short clay pipe. She took the pipe out of her mouth, spat in the sink and said, Boy, you look cold, sit by the stove and get warm, while Ill be cooking a bite for you and Mr. Cruickshanks. She cut two huge slices off a ham which was hanging to the ceiling rafter, put them on the grid-iron over the coals of a huge big fireplace. They were soon sizzling, sending out a smell that made my mouth water. She took a large loaf of homemade bread out of the cupboard, cut off big thick slices and laid them on the pine table. He took a big hunk of butter out of a wooden tub, slopped it on the bread licked both her thumbs, spread the butter with her thumbs then put the slices of ham on a tin plate and told me to hoe into it. I did and that ham, bread and butter spread on with Biddys spit and thumbs tasted good to me. Mr. Cruickshanks and Pat came in with the brown jug and Biddy put it to her lips, guzzle, guzzle, guzzle down it went. She must have drunk a pint of the clear Jamaica rum at one drink. She smacked her lips, licked them with her tongue and said, That drop of the craiture goes round the heart like a yard flannel. After Prince had his feed of oats and water we hitched up, left Pat and Biddy alone in their glory waiting for the next customer. I kept my promise to Mr. Cruickshanks, I never told of our hold-up until many years after Mr. Cruickshanks had slipped his cable. That night and Biddys bread and butter spread with her thumbs stands out in my memory as one of the tasty snacks of my life. The following is a copy of a letter written by Luke (2) to his cousin William in England, and quite soon after the familys arrival in Nova Scotia. To Mr. William Harrison, Rillington. Yorkshire, England, June 30, 1774.

Dear Cousin:

Hoping these lines will find you in good health, as we are at present, bless God for it.

We have all gotten safe to Nova Scotia, but do not like it at all, and a great many besides us, and are coming back to England again, all that can get back. We do not like the country, nor never shall. The mosquitoes are a terrible plague in this country. You may think that mosquitoes cannot hurt you, but if your do you are mistaken, for they will swell your legs and hands so that some persons are both blind and lame for some days. They grow worse every year, and the bite the English the worst.

We have taken a farm of one Mr. Barren, for one year, or longer if we like. The rent is 20 pounds a year. We have 10 cows, 4 oxen, 20 sheep, one sow and one breeding mare. The country is very poor, and there is very little money about Cumberland. The money is not like our English money. An English guinea is 1 pound, 3 shillings, 4 pence. In Nova Scotia money a dollar is equal to 5 shillings and a pistereen is a shilling. In haying time men have 3 shillings for mowing. The mosquitoes will bite them very often so that they will throw down their scythes and run home, almost bitten to death; and there is a black fly worse than all the rest. One is tormented all the summer with mosquitoes, and almost frozen to death in the winter. Last winter they had what was reckoned to be a fine winter, and the frost was not out of the ground on the 20th of June, which I will affirm as truth.

I shall let you know the affairs of the country another year, if God spares life and health.

Dear cousin, remember me to my Uncle and Aunt, and to all that ask for me. From your well wisher,

Luke Harrison

Direct your letters to John Harrison or Luke Harrison, at the River a Bare, nigh Fort Cumberland, Nova Scotia.

(I believe the River a Bare was the French pronunciation for River Hebert.)

Ancestors of Jennie Reid, Middle Musquodoboit. Personal opinions concerning conditions in general of Nova Scotia. Maccan, N.S. New Years Day, 1803.

Dear Cousin:

I received your favour of the 3rd of Sept. last, on the 24th of November following, which has given the whole family the greatest satisfaction of hearing from their dear friends. It is astonishing to us to hear of the carnage death has made since we left you. I hope these lines will find you in as good health as we are all in at present. Our family is greatly increased. It is larger than old Jacobs was when he went down to Egypt, so you may judge of the fruitfulness of Nova Scotia, nay some women that had left off bearing in England began again in Nova Scotia. You seem to have made great progress in making woods, but our woods are already made. You seem to want to know what sort we have. We have the very same sort you have been planting, which we call pitch pine, and it grows very long and straight. We have also white pine, which is the same sort as did grow before Jewets house, which grows thick and high, and of such they make ships masts and yards. We have also in some places oak trees, black, yellow and white ash, and plenty of beech, rock maple and white maple, the spruce tree of which we make our beer, the balsam fir tree, the hemlock, the hatmetack or larch, black, white and yellow birch and elm. The black birch makes furniture something like mahogany, and from the rock maple we get our sugar. My brother, William, made six hundred weight the last spring. We have thorns, but not like yours. The English thorns grow very well with us. We have some wild fruit that grows in the woods, such as wild cherries and gooseberries, bill berries, blueberries, buckleberries, strawberries, and cranberries. We have other fruits, such as apples, pear, plum, cherries, gooseberries, red, white and black currants. I wish I could get some grafts from your country, such as Sir Henry and Barton redings. I oft times think we might have grafts conveyed to America safely by being well fixed in clay. I have found out the time to graft in Nova Scotia is the 5th or 10th of May. Our crop of grain is middling this year, owing to the uncommon wet year. We have not seen the like since we came to N.S. I cannot help but praise up Nova Scotia for growing the greatest crops of potatoes, and the best, which answer well to eat with fish, as we have plenty, or may have, if we will. We have fine fishing and fowling, have plenty of wild geese, ducks, plover, curlew, partridges and snipe. Out partridges sit in trees and pidgeons too. One sort of our wild geese are the very same as Sir William Grey geese, but we leave the geese and talk about something else. Now if you have got any good spring wheat in your country I would gladly have a little of it, as I should not think it a hardship to get over, either from you to me or me to you. I cannot find out that gentleman that killed the fat ox, that only had 17 lbs of tallow in it. Your informant must have made a great mistake or the ox was killed to save his life. My father sold a cow to a neighbour, that he had milked all summer and until the morning that she was killed, that had 60 lbs. Of tallow in her, and I killed a very small cow that had 55 lbs. Of clear tallow in her, but I dont doubt but is possible to find an ox in any country that may have no more tallow in it, as your was informed, than our neighbour had. I can declare to you that of an ox that was killed at Halifax that weighed 1700 pounds. Our cattle in general are not a great deal inferior to your at Rillington. Our horses are smaller, sheep are nearly the same, a good cow will fetch 5 or 6 pounds, a yoke of good working oxen 15 or 16 pounds, horses from 10 to 20 pounds, as for hogs we all raise our own. As for market days, we have none. We are all our own butchers, we kill when we choose. We make our own soap, our own candles and our own sugar. Mens wages are as high as 20 pounds a year, As for young women they dont often hire by the year, but by the week or month at four shillings per week, and the best have five shillings, but we can hire men by the day, month or year, but they are scarce. Our carpenters that are good workmen have five or six shillings a day, shoemakers have 2s. 6d. a pair for making shoes, tailors have 2s.-6d. per day, weavers have 8d. a yard of weaving. We have more women weavers than any other. We want a fulling mill very much, or at least we want a fuller and dresser, as for a mill that can very easily be found. I have a noble mill stream wit h a corn mill and saw mill already upon it, and I could build a fulling mill, if I had but the fuller and his tools. Now if there is one of that occupation, that dares to come and set up that branch of business, he would soon make a fortune. Dear cousin you gave me an invitation to purchase a place in my native country, but I had rather, ten to one, stay where I am, unless I could live in it independent. Although in my mind I oft times visit Rillington. You write of coming to Nova Scotia. Nothing could give me greater satisfaction than to see you here. 500 pounds or 600 pounds would purchase a good place, but how you would like the country I cannot tell. The summer is very hot ant the winters are often very cold but we have wood enough to keep us warm. People that come from England like the country very well, and those that are advanced in years live to a great age. In this country are lands of different quality, as there is in all countries. You mention bog and swamp, which we have in places, but we have good land, which grows good wheat, rye, barley, oats, Indian corn, buckwheat, pease, flax, hemp, turnips and the best potatoes in the world. Our land here as soon as cultivated naturally brings us white clover. Dear cousin, I give you leave to judge for yourself. You shall, if you come, have every assistance at your landing. If you intend to come send me word, and whatever your command is maybe they shall be punctually obeyed by your loving friend and cousin.

Luke Harrison

ENTERPRISERS HALL

Across the street from Melvin Higgins stands the Enterprisers Hall. The Hall, now known as the Enterprisers Hall , was built in 1889 and was the meeting place of Rising Sun Division No. 52, Sons of Temperance. Rising Sun Division was organized January 1st, 1849 with a membership of 15. For the first nine months of 1849 the meetings were held in a room in Mr. Robert Kaulbacks house at a rental of 20 shillings per quarter. At the close if the third quarter the members began to agitate for a building of their own. John McCurdy offered a house owned by him which stood where William McCurdy now lives. While this proposal was being studied, the Division met in a room gratuitously offered by Dr. William Harrison, one of the charter members of the Division. At the same time, a committee was appointed to examine the house offered and also to report on a new building, giving estimates, etc. When this committee reported, it was resolved that a new building be erected on a site offered by Brother Alexander McCurdy. At a subsequent meeting it was resolved that the building be placed on a site purchased from Brother Robert Kaulback. This was approximately where Austin Miller now lives. In two months the Hall was so far finished that the first anniversary was celebrated in it. During these two months the meetings were held in the school house which was then located nearby. On April 26th, 1888 this building was destroyed by fire. At the first meeting following the fire, it was resolved to rebuild and after disposing of the site and agreeing on another, a building committee was appointed: Samuel Hanna, Walter McCurdy and Alfred Murphy with J. Watson McCurdy as secretary. This building, the present hall was erected at a cost of $1,184.76. In 1898 when the Division celebrated its 50th anniversary there was only a debt of $100 remaining. This information was taken from a booklet printed on the occasion of the 50th anniversary of Rising Sun Division and written largely by the late J. Watson McCurdy. The Hall, if walls could talk, could tell many tales about the social events which were held there. Prime Minister Robert Borden addressed a meeting in the upper hall and at least one Lt. Governor of Nova Scotia also visited us. On the eve of elections, public meetings were held at which the issues of the day were debated by both Conservatives and Liberals, a truly educational experience for young people especially. It was also used as a polling booth until the IOOF Hall took on that function. The mid-week prayer meeting was held in one of the downstairs rooms for many years. Xmas concerts took place in the upper hall now Encore Attic. Each year the Howard Taylor family entertained us with their concerts, instrumental as well as vocal music and all of a high order. Recruiting meetings were held during World War I and receptions for those boys who were fortunate enough to return. Perhaps the highlight of the year was the anniversary celebration of Rising Sun Division. From its organization in 1849 until the decline of the Temperance Movement, it celebrated its anniversary on January 1st by a supper followed by a concert. This attracted visitors, not just from the Musquodoboit Valley, but from Stewiacke and other places at a distance. They came on bob-sleds, while loads of them, in spite of the cold and thoroughly enjoyed it. Sometimes the entertainment was imported from Halifax which entailed a rail journey to Stewiacke or Shubenacadie and a sleigh ride of sixteen or eighteen miles in the depth of winter. We always seemed to have snow then. Today, the Hall is still serving a useful purpose. Senior Citizens hold regular meetings and numerous crafts such as pottery are carried on. Long may it continue!

POSTAL SERVICE IN MIDDLE MUSQUODOBOIT SINCE 1900

A Post Office Building was erected by Mr. Samuel Hanna, in 1900, to replace facilities formerly provided in a portion of the home of William Kaulback. Mr. Hanna remained as postmaster until 1920 and was succeeded by Mr. E.D.T. Snow who served another 20 years. Mr. Robert Guild was Postmaster for two years and was succeeded by Mr. Alfred Guild who served until 1951.

Wilfred Milne was appointed in December 1951 and remained as Postmaster until his retirement in 1978. The new structure was erected in 1959. The present Postmaster is Mr. David Pilot. During the above period some of the dedicated and capable assistants were: Mrs. Norma Hanna, Mrs. Snow, Mrs. Louella (Eisan) Stewart, Mrs. Alice McCurdy, Mrs. Jamesina McCurdy, Mrs. Alfred Guild, Mrs. Florence Langille, Mrs. Frances Kellough, Mrs. June Yonke, Mrs. Audrey Hill.

HOME OF VALLEY VIEWS, THE VAUGHANS AND LOGAN DRILLING

This large building is right opposite Snooks, one the square. It is actually three buildings in one. The two end parts are the oldest, pre World War II, and the large middle section was added in the 1940s. This establishment was for a long time owned and operated by Messers. Bentley and Archibald. They sold and services Fords and farm machinery. The establishment was later sold and operated as a garage and gas station (Gulf). In 1974 it was bought by Rodney and Rose Vaughan who make the west end of the building (once a showroom) their home. Rose has her pottery studio upstairs. The rest of the property is rented by Logan Drilling Ltd. As office, maintenance, and storage facility. This building is also the madcap home of the VALLEY VIEWS!

HISTORICAL NOTES

This address was taken from the Musquodoboit Centenary and was by J. Watson McCurdy on The Pioneers of Musquodoboit and What We Owe Them.

In the spring of the year 1784 131 years ago, said Mr. McCurdy, seven men with their families, removed from Truro to Upper Musquodoboit and commenced a settlement there. Their names were John Fisher, James Fisher, Samuel Fisher, Stewtley Horton, Thomas Reynolds, John Holman and Robert Geddes. In the year 1799 we have a list of names, residents of Upper and Middle Musquodoboit, which includes besides the above, Alexander Stewart 1st, Samuel F. Archibald, Matthew T. Archibald, William Archibald, Elizabeth Dickie, Simeon Whidden, John Pratt, Robert Hamilton, John Archibald 3rd, Alexander Henry, Alexander Stewart 2nd, Margaret Farnell, John Dean, David Dickie, David Archibald 8th, Samuel B. Archibald, Edward Braden, Samuel Nelson, John Scott, John Archibald, Adams Archibald, John Nelson, James Guild, George McLeod, John Moore, John Higgins, David Archibald 5th, Hugh Archibald, Johnstone Kaulback, Robert Nelson, John Geddes, Alexander McN. Fisher, Hugh Logan and Michael Geddes, 41 in all and it is not likely that this list includes even all the heads of families, so that in the 18th century, there were quite a number of people in these two sections. At perhaps and earlier day, Lower Musquodoboit Meaghers Grant was settled, for we know that in this last mentioned year the Rev. James Murdoch, who was settled in Horton, was drowned in the river, by falling from his canoe, (supposedly in a fit, to which he was subject), very near where the Presbyterian Church now stands, and was buried there, in what is now at least, their cemetery. We give a list of residents in that section in 1802: Ronald McDonald, Colin Johnson, John Dunbrack, Angus McDonald, Christopher Dillman, Thomas Hurley, David Bradley, John Ogilvie, William Fisher, John Fisher, Miles McInnes Esq., James Fisher, Alexander Grant , and John Cole. These were the original settlers of Meaghers Grant. In 1798 Samuel Fisher Archibald came from Truro and settled in Upper Musquodoboit on the property now owned by his grandson, P.G. Archibald. He was familiarly known as the Deacon and the section was known as Deacontown for half a century but the name has lately been changed to Centre Musquodoboit. The deacon carried on farming and tanning until the infirmities of age caused him to retire. He lived some 62 years in this place. Matthew Taylor Archibald, a brother of the Deacon, settled on the farm now owned by Harrison Gladwin, about the year 1800. In later years he sold this property to Colonel Gladwin, and occupied the one on which his grandson Adam now resides. He was familiarly known as Good Matthew, a name given him by the Rev. John Sprott. A year later their brother Adam settled in the farm now owned by Mr. Snow. His house stood on the Old Road (as we call it). He went by the title of squire, and in my young days, any one knew who was meant if you said the deacon or the squire. A little before this time William Guild with his three sons and two daughters came to Musquodoboit and he, the father, was drowned in the river near Mount William in Upper Musquodoboit, and he was buried on that hill, hence its name. His sons, James, William and Matthew, settled in Middle Musquodoboit. James, where William H. Guild now lives; William, where Mrs. William Sedgewick now lives; and Matthew, on the old road where Caspian Day now lives. One of the sisters became the wife of Good Matthew, the other of Colonel James Kent. In 1813 Alexander Shaw arrived in Nova Scotia from Banfshire, Scotland, and settled in Lower Musquodoboit. He was one of the first elders ordained in Musquodoboit. In the same year, 1813, James and Alexander McCurdy came from Onslow (a young man and a boy), chopped a field on a 300 acre lot their father had bought for them. This field was where M.R. Whites house now stands. They boarded with a Mr. Turner, whose house stood on the bank of the brook just above where Sidney McKeen now resides. This lot of land made two farms and was owned and occupied by these two brothers for many years. Subsequently, it was divided again and made four farms. Perhaps it is worth adding that the family from which these two brothers came was somewhat remarkable in several ways. A large family, seven sons and seven daughters, they all lived to grow up and have families, the youngest daughter dying first, leaving three children. The seven sons, when grown to manhood, just averaged six feet in height and were all either ministers or elders in the Presbyterian Church, but to none of them need it have been said, Woe unto you, when all men speak well of you. The eldest, it is said, never laughed except once, and that was the day when he and his wife came home and found the old hog lying sleeping on the carpet under the table in the parlour. These early settlers had their hardships. I remember hearing my father speak of the cold summer, the year of the mice, the year of the freshet, and I see by history that in September, 1792, there was a great freshet, carrying off the low lands all the hay and grain it could get hold of. Then, in November, 1813, the big wind, which blew down houses, and did great damage. Then there was near that time the cold summer, in which the crops did not come to maturity, and the year of the mice, so that if they had not ten plagues they had at least four. We, their descendants, have met with losses, but we must realize that to pioneers such as these the loss of a crop meant much more than to an older settlement.

Sometime in the 20s James Archibald, a brother of Sir Adams, settled on the farm now owned by William Gladwin, and his brother-in-law, Matthew McCurdy, one of the seven brethren, bought the property now owned by John Fox. They did not stay long for reasons which I will state later. About the year 1830, Colonel Gladwin came from England with his family and bought the property owned by Matthew Taylor Archibald (mentioned before). A few years later he bought LaPrairie from Captain Raine, and moved there. The Captain removed to Onslow, where his descendants still reside. I was told not long ago how he, the Captain, got that property, and although it is a little off the subject, shows something of the character of one of our pioneers. After selling LaPrairie he went over to Onslow, and meeting one of the residents, asked him if he would sell his farm, and was told that he had no desire to sell. Well, what do you consider it is worth, and he named a price. The captain came back to Musquodoboit, packed up his belongings, and with his family went again to Onslow. Going to the house he said: Well, Mr. McCurdy, when can you give me possession? Oh, Captain, I did not sell you the property. No but you said it was worth so much. I have the money in my pocket, my family and belongings are all here on the road, and I want itand to make a long story short, he got it. Joining LaPrairie the colonel bought the two properties from James Archibald and Matthew McCurdy, they removed to Old Barns, where their descendants still reside. He also bought two or three other properties and took out a grant of a thousand acres in Glenmore, which is now owned by quite a number as wood lots. Mr. Gladwin (with some help, perhaps) also built an English church (as we called it) and laid out a burying ground by it. It is not used now, and in one of the most romantic spots in Musquodoboita cemetery with its monuments in the woods. The church was taken down years ago. About the year 1840, Rev. James Watson came from Scotland and took charge of the school in Middle Musquodoboit. He was a thorough teacher and conducted a school which would have done credit to any town or city. A few years after this Upper Musquodoboit had a teacher in the person of Alexander Russell, another Scotchman, who wielded the birch and taught the people knowledge. I will just mention the coming of two of our clergymen, both from Scotland: Rev. John Sprott, who came about 1825, bought land and started to make the farm on which his grandson now resides. He did this besides exercising the office of the ministry in all the valley, and also made many preaching tours to the Eastern Shore; and the Rev. Dr. Sedgewick (the old man eloquent) who came in 1849, ministered to the whole valley for twenty-five years, and then to the middle section only, and celebrated his jubilee. Some of his descendants are with us, and many others in high places of the earth in many parts of the Dominion.

JOSEPH HOWE WAS ONCE A RESIDENT OF MUSQUODOBOIT

Middle Musquodoboit, 1915

W.C. Archibald , now of Wolfville, an old Musquodoboit boy contributed to the reminiscences in a pleasant way. For more than seventy years, he said, I have been wondering what there is in this Musquodoboit soil and landscaping that so constrains our love to gather in great numbers to recount the honours of the place and our ancestral homes. For more than a century this community has stretched for forty miles over-looking a beautiful winding river of clean water, netted with trout and salmon almost up to its fountain; and has imparted to us a something we cannot name and yet cannot deny. May I ask of you, Why is this rural people essentially different to those to the south and west of the Metropolitan city of Halifax? Musquodoboit is a community of race and of religion with a temperament peculiarly its own. There is in it a landscape with a kindly blend of rolling hills and valley ranges, singing along the north side, a narrow band of silver waters that forever are appealing to youth and age for corresponding ideals of beauty. In the happy days when I drove to Halifax on the market wagon, I noticed the predominance and warming colors of red houses, and wondered why it was they brightened all the road way. At the head of the river was Adam Deans, James Dean, William Dean, Nelson Dean, William Archibald, afterward the Annand Farm; Samuel Burke Archibald, Wallace Archibald, Samuel L. Henry, John Parker, James Archibald. Nature delighted the owners with lively Red Maples, with ruby tints that lasted for their scenery of life, and these pictures told of the aesthetically inclined. The sunlight accentuated the red to cheer and melt away the ices forces about us. Men do not grow premeditated lives by theoretic rules, but natural surroundings envelop and persuade. Our environment colors and shapes the trend of life and stimulates the way to gentler refinement. The red homes may be taken to mean a wider diffusion of a people of more than average stability, taste and culture. The correlated results of nature-teaching have been good for Musquodoboit. Along this fragrant rivernever rose in my day a more earnest, powerful life than Rev. Robert Sedgewicks whose cherished memory we unitedly honor. Whether in the pulpit of schoolroom the faithfulness and forcefulness of his appeals to young and old can never be forgotten. How vividly I recall the hearing of Dr. Sedgewicks lecture in old Poplar Grove Church on the Antagonisms of the century, and his illuminated face covered with fervid sweat! It was then he received the sobriquet of the old man eloquent. The next morning, on the train, I saw Dr. Sedgewick sitting in front of me. Presently I went forward. He held out his hand and I managed to say, I remember some of the things you have said and they did me good. He leaned back in the seat and in his characteristic manner said hm, hm, hm. The new school act came in 1864 that equalized educational advantages through the province. The coming to Musquodoboit of the Annands and Colonel Gladwin and others represented a wider social status and gave to the younger people a fresh desire for knowledge and literary attainments. Joseph Howe came to the Annand farm in 1845 and engaged in farming for the period of two years, as a recuperative relief from political warfare. Mr. Howe was a great lover of nature and the natural or simple life. He did much to inspire the young people by his poetic spirit and literary gems. Some of us committed to memory his poetry and prose writings, while they were fresh from his pen. There was a natural elegance and fullness and roundness of expression with an attractive beauty and inspirational spirit that roused young minds and touched the hearts for which we are grateful to him. It was on this river that Mr. Howe wrote:

OUR COUNTRYS PLEASANT STREAMS

In joy and gladness there ye go My countrys pleasant streams, And oft through scenes as fair ye flow As bless the poets dreams.

Here dwelt the father of responsible governmentjournalist, orator, poet, statesman, patroit, Briton, upright citizen, honest man, greatest Nova Scotian. To have lived as neighbours of Mr. Howe is an honor and uplift where his name will always be treasured.

HIGGINS The Higgins family had its beginnings in the Musquodoboit area in 1783 , when John Higgins of Wiltshire, England, and his wife Hester Carmichael Higgins took up residence in Higginsville. At the time of the American Revolution, John joined the Imperial Troops as a private and at the last moment before leaving for America in 1778 he was married to Miss Carmichael who had been reared in luxury as her people were wealthy. She, too, came to America as a soldiers wife. When peace was declared in 1783 he was granted a pension of 6 pounds sterling a year for life, besides 60 acres of land in Shelburne, N.S. When he checked out his property he found it of little value, and decided to look elsewhere for a place to settle and returned to Halifax. From Halifax he and his wife came eastward to Musquodoboit Harbour and then turned inland and with a canoe paddled up the Musquodoboit river looking for a place of settlement. When they came to what is now called Higgins Brook, they turned up it and about one and one half miles up the brook they came to a hill covered with heavy hardwood. There they camped for the night, Strange to relate, the family of two had by morning increased to three. Mrs. Higgins, while lying between two cradle hills, had given birth to a son in the night. Later they moved on to build their first home where Mrs. Freeda Butcher and her son Lloyd now live. It must have been hard sledding at the first. They were able to grow some wheat, but had to boil it for porridge. They would burn a hollow in the top of a stump, put in a handful of wheat and crush it with a wooden block, and use the crushed wheat for bread. John Higgins used to catch rabbits using wire out of his wifes bonnet. They cut down the largest hardwood trees and burned them, using the ashes to fertilize the land and so were able to produce a crop of wheat and potatoes. John and Hester had six sons and two daughters. In 1810 he was granted a total of 1,180 acres of land for himself and his sons. This area was named Higginsville and many descendents of this couple still live in the area. After six or seven generations many of the Higgins family have gone forth to various parts of Canada and the United States. Many of the Truro Higgins can trace their ancestry back to John and Hester.

HOSPITALS

The old Musquodoboit Valley Memorial Hospital was formerly the home of Prescott Holman. He built this house and lived there with his family from 1923 until his death in 1941. His widow, his son Ira and his wife Hilda with their sons Douglas and Ronald, continued living in the house until 1946. At that time, they sold the house to the Nova Scotia Division of the Canadian Red Cross for a hospital. When the new Musquodoboit Valley Memorial Hospital opened in 1976 this fine old building was demolished.

HOTEL

The Riverton Hotel was situated on the corner opposite the house now occupied by Harry McCurdy. It was a 2 storey building servicing the travelling public such as salesmen, coach passengers and regular borders. One of the earliest operators was Tommy Green assisted by his wife Georgie. Many anecdotes are remembered concerning the frugality of Mrs. Green. The Riverton Hotel burned down many years ago, With the coming of the car, the hotel business vanished and the Kaulback and Holman Hotels closed.

NORTH SCHOOL

The old North School was situated in the village of Middle Musquodoboit. It was situated closer to the present road towards the Coop store than the present Central Consolidated Elementary School . The present school was opened in 1962. It was not known when the last class was held in the Old North School. A school picture from 1936 from a school in Chaswood/Middle Musquodoboit shows students: Dora Sibley, Vernon Taylor, Goldie Taylor, Hilda Taylor, Gladys Taylor, Ralph Blades, Arthur Taylor, Hazel Malay, Ruby Day, Ronald Day, Ruby Blades, Shirley Taylor, Daisy Taylor, Ola Leck, Hazel Bell, Ross Leck, Irene Blades, George Bell, Gladys Sibley, Maynard Taylor, Frances Bell. Of these students there were two sets of twins: Ruby and Ronald Day and Ruby and Ralph Blades.

RAILROAD 1920

Plans were made as early as 1912, and a survey conducted from Dartmouth to Upper Musquodoboit, in preparation for building a railway line. Crews were soon busy cutting a right-of-way through the bush and blasting rock to make a uniform roadbed. Men came from all over the Province to get employment. The firm of Cavicchi and Pigano of Brookline, Mass., had obtained a contract to build the new line. A number of Italian workmen, who had recently come from their homeland were among the crew. The Italians lived in their own quarters , which was a caboose drawn up near their work. Andrew, who was a younger half-brother of James Cavicchi, the senior partner of the contracting firm, operated the stream shovel, which was a relatively new power tool at that time. By November 1914, track was laid as far as Meaghers Grant. And it gradually progressed to its destination at Upper Musquodoboit. The workmen found living accommodations in the homes along the route, as work went on to the completion of contracts, with no major accident to mar the history of its building. Young Andy was a romantic figure, who appealed to many of the girls in the area, but his choice was Miss Sophia Greenough, a daughter of Joseph and Sarah Greenough of Middle Musquodoboit. They were married on June 18, 1915 by Rev. D. Stiles Fraser of Lower Musquodoboit (Elderbank). When the new line was completed, Mr. & Mrs. Cavicchi moved to Lowell, Mass., and then from one construction site to another. They finally settled in Meaghers Grant, where his death occurred in 1964. Mrs. Cavicchi resides with a daughter, Mrs. Albert Ettinger, Middle Musquodoboit. Another romance is known to have developed during the construction of this railroad. This was between Clifford Lloy of Lawrencetown and Miss Pearl MacBain, whose parents were proprietors of a Hotel at Meaghers Grant, where Mr. Lloy boarded for a time. Mrs. Lloy is now a widow, living in Halifax. A nephew, Douglas MacBain, operates a general store at The Grant. Mrs. Bessie (Grant) Barker, of Meaghers Grant, remembers the Scandinavians who boarded at her parents home, while working in that area. These foreigners were wonderful people who had little English, but big hearts, she said. When they moved on as the line progressed, they visited the Grants every Sunday, with treats for all. Hans Olsen was an outstanding favorite with everyone, especially the children. Although he did not succumb to the charms of the girls in Musquodoboit, he married later and lived in Halifax. Leo Bianchi, another member of the Italian crew, returned to Mass., in the status of a bachelor, as he had come. The Musquodoboit Railway Service was established when an official Government train arrived at Upper Musquodoboit from Dartmouth on January 3, 1916. Later in the year an excursion train was run over the new road to celebrate Government ownership, after the contractors had fulfilled their obligations. Fifty years later, June 28, 1966, another excursion was run on this line. On both occasions, a picnic lunch was served to the passengers, when they gathered on the hill behind the former Stewarts Hotel. The last train to carry a passenger car, made the final run on January 23, 1960, without fanfare or celebration of any kind. After that, irregular trains for freight or express took the place of the daily run, and the stations are closed. The Musquodoboit train was dubbed The Old Blueberry Special by local residents who found it a very convenient way of transportation to Lower Musquodoboit or other areas where the berries grew in season. In 44 years many carloads of limestone and thousands of feet of lumber were shipped on this line. Hedley Creelman, of Otterbrook, was among the first to ship lumber on the Musquodoboit Railroad from logging operations on the Sheet Harbour Road. In twenty or more years the trend to motor transport began to show a curtailment of the rail services used. The older residents had seen a dream realized and then saw it gradually fade and die. In the beginning, numerous passengers went to the city for shopping and those who worked there found it a convenient means of transportation. When more people acquired cars, the rail passengers became fewer and fewer until finally they averaged about one per trip. Many of the older residents regretted the loss of these rail services as they firmly believed it was a paying proposition if handled properly. The station at Upper Musquodoboit was named Stewarts at first but was later changed to the name of the place.

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