E.M.C.S. Tech. Ed. Site



Making a Simple Small Wooden BoxMaterialsSides = Pine 1X4 3 feet long Lid = any hardwood that is ~ 6” wide by 1 foot longBottom = 1/8” plywood blank ~6” X ~ 8”Process Break out stock for sidesMachine and fit sidesBreak out stock for bottomMachine and fit bottomGlue up box sidesBreak out stock for lidMachine and fit lidSand up to 150 Apply oil and wax finishBreaking out stock for sides:Choose a partner to work withCollect one 6 foot long board for you and your partnerBreak out stock for sidesPlane your 6 foot board to ?” thicknessCalculate how long of a board you will need to make a small box. Add it up:(2 x sides) + (2 x ends) + (2” waste) = (Total Length)Cut off snipe on each end of your board using the mitre sawCut your piece to rough length using the Mitre sawMeasure the width of your sides and rip to widthMust be a multiple of ?”Cutting Sides and Ends to Finished Length: (Use the Table Saw With a Cross Cut Sled)30734005651500Cut both ends squareRemove as little as possible.Use a stop block and spacer to cut partsCut ends for box 4 7/8” is suggestedEnsure that the ends are ?” shorter than the width you intend to make your topCut sides for box8” is suggestedEnsure that the length is ?” shorter than the total length you intend to make your lid.4481830-1016000Cut Finger Joints: (Use the Dado Set and Table Saw With ?” Finger Joint Jig) Read Making Box Joints InstructionsCut Finger Joint on both outside edges of both endsCut opposite Profile on Both Sides Fit Box Sides Together and Don’t take them apartCut Slot for the bottom: (use the router table with a box slotting bit)Read Making Box Slotting Bit InstructionsClamp sides correctlyRoute the slot as outlined in the instructionsMake it ?” from the bottom of the boxMaking the bottom:Carefully measure the distance across from the inside of one slot to the inside of the opposite slot.Obtain a bottom blank and rip then crosscut to finished dimensionsCarefully check the grain direction to be sure your like itSand the round profile on each corner and carefully fit it into your boxGlue up the sidesCheck your dry fitSides should be tight and bottom should not be sloppy but pushing the sides or ends out eitherAsk your instructor about the tape trick to reduce glue inside the boxCarefully put glue between the pins and clamp the ends carefully ensuring the box is squareDON’T GLUE IN BOTTOMWait about 30 minutes for the glue to dry and carefully hand- sand the outside to get rid of excess glueMake the LidCarefully measure your box dimensions. Lid dimensions are as follows:(Length + 3/8”) by (Width + 3/8”) for ~ 1/8” all around(Length + 1/2”) by (Width + 1/2”) for ~ 1/4” all aroundWith your partner, select a single board that is long enough for both lidsIt must be at least 3/4” thick if planed smooth on both sides or 1” if roughIdentify your reference edge and faceJoint and plane as neededRip and crosscut on the table sawUse a rip fence and cross cut sled as requiredCalculate the dado cut needed for the lid to fit into the boxEnsure that there is about 1/8” extra in width and the length is about 1/16” extra so the wood move with moisture changesCut the dado all around using the dado saw or the router table equipped with a fence and 1” straight cut bitCheck the lid fit and adjust as needed to allow for a good fitProfile the top of the lid using a ?” or 1/8” round over router bitSand and finish as needed.Check fit Making Box Joints Before the advent of cardboard boxes, manufacturers joined the sides of thin wooden boxes with these joints because they were strong and fast to make. Today, box joints have taken on practical and decorative roles in projects ranging from jewelry cases to hope chests. After you build the jig featured in the Box-Joint Jig Project, follow these steps and see firsthand how easily you can master this joinery method.1. Before you cut the actual box joints, keep in mind that the width of your box sides must be an increment of the finger width. Otherwise, you'll wind up with less-than-pleasing partial fingers at the bottom of your box. So, in the example of 1/4"-thick stock discussed here and in the jig-building article, the width of the workpieces must be an increment of 1/4" (such as 5", 51/4", 51/2", etc.).Box-Joint Jig Project2. Mark the front, back, and side pieces of your box. Also, mark the top edge on each of these pieces.For each box you make, you cut the sides consecutively, and the front and back consecutively. It doesn't matter which pair you do first, so we'll start with the sides.For all of the following cuts, hold the top edge of the workpiece toward the jig pin for the first cut. Now, put hand pressure on the jig to hold its miter-gauge bar firmly against the right side of the tablesaw channel. Make the first cut as shown above. Place the just-cut notch over the jib pin and repeat to cut fingers along the full width of the workpiece. Cut the other side piece in the same fashion.3. Before you cut the front and back, cut one notch into a scrap piece, just as you cut the first notch into the side piece earlier. Position this notch over the pin as shown at left, and butt the top edge of the front piece against the scrap before making a cut. Make the remaining cuts in the front piece by removing the scrap, placing the notch over the pin, and proceeding as described earlier. Cut the back piece just as you cut the front.Page 24. To join your box pieces, apply glue to all of the mating surfaces with a small brush. Tap the joints together with a rubber mallet if necessary. Clamp the box together as shown above. (You may need to position a clamp diagonally to square the box.)Note that we used scrap pieces on each side of the corners to evenly distribute the clamping pressure along the joint. Wider boxes may require additional clamps.After the glue dries, sand the fingers flush with the sides, front, and back. Be careful not to round over the corners.-746150000-548641-61447700-613588-31417300Make a quick box using box joints by tkohler – Accessed 7 May 2016 I wanted to make a small box for a project and I wanted strong joints. A mitered and glued box wouldn't be strong enough for what i had in mind so I tried box joints.?There are all kinds of commercially available jigs and tools to assist in making box joints (or dovetails) but I made my own jig quickly and easily with the router table at TechShop and some scrap wood.Tools needed:Router table and a 1/4" straight bitCompound miter saw or table sawPlaner/Joiner*Belt sander*Straight fileSome clamps*optionalMaterials:3-4" wide boardScrap boardI made it at TechShop! Step 1: prepare the sidesPlane your board to the desired thickness. I used 2.5" wide maple planed to about 3/8" thickness.Cut four sides. Label each piece lightly in pencil: front, back, left and right. It helps to put the label at the top of each piece to aid in orientation later.If it helps, lay them out in the way they will be assembled.32696151143000Step 2: Prepare the jigFor this box, I wanted 1/4" fingers. I inserted a 1/4" straight bit in to the router table and set the height to be the thickness of one of my sides. A quick way to do this is to stack two piece on top of each other with one offset from the other. Raise the router bit until it just touches the offset piece on top. DO NOT CHANGE THE HEIGHT AFTER THIS STEP!Take a piece of flat scrap wood and clamp it to your miter gauge. In my case, I needed an additional piece of scrap to provide a good clamping surface on the rear of the miter gauge. The front piece is flush with the surface of the router table, the second, clamping piece, clears the router bit.Turn on the router and rout a rectangular hole in the front piece of scrap. This hole will hold the jig "finger".Cut a piece of wood, perhaps from your board, just larger than your bit size, in my case 1/4" x 1/4" x ~2"Fit the piece in to the slot you cut in the jig board. File or sand it down to a tight fit. Also, sand the bottom down so the finger is flush with the bottom of the jig board.Now, realign the jig board on the router table, against the miter gauge. This time, however, you will clamp the board offset from the bit by EXACTLY the width of the bit (1/4"). I used a 1/4" drill bit as a spacer between the jig finger and the router bit. Clamp the jig board in to position. DO THIS STEP CAREFULLY. Be sure you are measuring against the widest part of the router bit and that the fit is as exact as you can get. This step determines how well the box will fit.Now, with the jig board clamped in place, route a second hole in the front of the jig board. It should now look like the picture. 419100053657500212788553594000-63553975000Step 3: Cut the fingers on the first pieceNow, you can start cutting fingers. It is a good idea to make some test fingers on a few pieces of scrap wood to test the alignment of the jig. If the fingers don't fit together closely, try the alignment again.For the first cut: Align one side of the side piece with the inside edge of the jig finger. Route a hole. You should now have a piece that has a 1/4" square hole, 1/4" in from the left edge (see picture).?For the second and following cuts: move the piece so that the slot you just cut fits over the jig finger. Route a new hole. Repeat until you run out of board. If the last hole doesn't align perfectly with the edge, don't worry, the corresponding piece will have the same amount of left over hole.Between routing holes, especially if the jig finger is a tight fit, you may want to run a square file through the newly cut hole to adjust fit. Don't file away too much, just enough for it to fit tightly. 428625025654000Step 4: Cut the fingers on the second pieceThe second piece is cut the same as the first piece EXCEPT: the first finger is a hole on this piece, so you have to adjust the offset of the first hole. There is an easy way to do this.Take the corresponding piece you just cut, place the hole closest to what will be the top of the box on the jig finger. Align the back piece with the edge that will be the top of the box touching the top of the side piece (this is where the pencil marks come in handy).?Route a hole. This will make a hole that is at the top of the edge, corresponding to the top finger of the other piece. If everything is well aligned, the router bit should not cut anything from the piece on the jig finger.?Now proceed as before, cutting fingers by aligning the holes on the front piece on the jig finger as before. 354520525463500Step 5: Test your fitDry fit your pieces. If it is too tight, try some light filing. If it is too loose - oops. try again with better measurement on the jig finger and the router bit alignment.If the ends of the fingers are too long, that is ok since you can cut/sand them down after the box is complete. If the ends of the fingers are too short, your bit is not high enough. You might be able to file the holes slightly deeper to make a better fit. 4267200-2540000Step 6: Make the other two sidesCut fingers on all eight sides following the same procedure as the first two sides. 426402532194500Step 7: Bottom and Lid426466048641000For this box, I wanted a lid that would fit loosely in to the top and a bottom I could glue in place. To do this, I took the top and bottom and routed a 3/8" rabbet around all four sides. Close measurement is helpful here.?To do this, I set up a fence against the router bit, now a 3/8" bit, set to a height of about 1/8". The fence is just about even with the edge of the bit. Again make a test cut or two on scrap to test the fit.?The miter gauge helps to keep the lid square when routing the short side. 350329527432000Step 8: Glue and finishMy box joint fingers were so tight that I had to use a mallet to softly bang them in to place. I probably didn't need glue. The bottom piece glued in to place easily and the lid nestles nicely in the top.Stain or paint as you like. ................
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