Disaster Prep- Criteria for passing



Disaster Preparation badge

- Criteria for passing -

This is a very advanced badge and is not intended to be an easy one to earn. It takes a real commitment to having a plan for emergency situations not only for yourself, but also your pets and your family. Being prepared enough to earn this badge will give you good peace of mind, help prepare your dog(s) and reduce their stress should the worst occur.

Permanent ID – Tattoo or microchip or future permanent marking technology in addition to a collar with ID tags showing at least one phone number from out of the area (friend, national registry, etc.) or a tag like the “home again” that has contact info online that can be updated easily.

This requirement ensures that the dog can get back to a person that owns it or at least someone who knows it and can make proper decisions for it in the event that the owner has lost their life in the disaster or is otherwise unable to care for the dog at that time (like if all possessions are lost and the person must live in a temporary shelter).

In a disaster, it’s possible that the phone and address on a dog’s tag or microchip no longer exists. So something on the dog needs to provide a way to contact a person who is well outside the geographic area (at least 100 miles away) and who knows the dog (can identify the dog in a shelter) and who would be willing to do what they can to be sure the dog is cared for until the owner is able to reclaim the dog or will find the dog a suitable home in the event the owner has passed away. This can be a friend, family member or another Dog Scout member with whom you have made contact. This person MUST agree to these duties and should also have a copy of your emergency packet.

An alternative to putting that person’s number on the dog’s tag is a tag that connects the finder to an online registration for the dog that the owner can update easily and from any internet connection. This is less ideal than the 2nd person option because the owner won’t be around to update the info if they have not survived the disaster. But it is still a good way to be able to instantly update the owner’s contact info if the dog goes missing while the owner is on vacation or in the event of a disaster that the owner survives.

The dog MUST have a permanent form of ID that connects the finder with some way to locate the owner. The microchip may go to the breeder or rescue (who knows who bought the dog) if the owner was the one who bought the dog from the breeder/rescue. Otherwise, the chip should have contact info for the owner and ideally have a way to update that info online or with a phone call in case the original phone/address no longer exists.

A tattoo, to be valid for this purpose, must be from one of the nationally known tattoo registries. If your dog gets picked up as a stray during a disaster and gets shipped to a shelter that is willing and able to handle the overflow but is outside the area, that shelter needs to be able to recognize the tattoo origin so they know what tattoo registry to contact. The tattoo a breeder put on the dog may or may not be recognized by shelter staff as useful (even if it’s registered with AKC). The tattoo must be easily visible and fully readable. And the dog needs to allow a stranger (or the evaluator) to check the tattoo location closely enough to read the tattoo.

For evaluation… Tattoo would need to be seen by the evaluator or on shown on video. Paperwork for a microchip should be seen by the evaluator or a copy of the paperwork should be submitted with the video. The collar tag(s) should be seen by the evaluator or shown on video and the owner should point out which number is to the alternate contact and/or the online registry. The collar with the tags should be secure and in good condition.

NOTE: All portions of the testing that are to be done “by a stranger” should be done by a person that is not well known to the dog (can be an acquaintance). The Evaluator or person acting as the evaluator (and the person doing the video camera operation) should not be well known to the dog or someone the dog gets excited about when they see that person. If the Evaluator is well known to the dog, the Evaluator should use a person that is not as well known and observe the interactions from a distance (at least 15’). In camp situations, someone the dog has seen and occasionally interacted with over the course of the week is fine. A friend of the owner that has traveled to camp with them, is sharing lodging and that the dog sees on a regular basis at home would not work. In a troop setting, if the dog only sees the Evaluator/helper at meetings and doesn’t get excited to see these people, that will work. If the dog is excited to see anyone and everyone, it still needs to be someone that the dog doesn’t see on a regular basis. The person should act as though they don’t know the dog at all and treat it the same way they would treat a stray dog they just rescued/found. The stranger/evaluator should not use the dog’s name when they interact with the dog. A shelter worker or rescuer won’t likely know your dog’s name. Calling the dog “puppy” or “honey” or “buddy” (as long as that’s not the dog’s name) is fine.

Will allow a stranger to leash and remove them from a place they consider their own (crate, car, home, etc.) without owner present (simulates a rescue from their home).

Sometimes in a disaster, a dog will not allow a stranger to enter the home or will appear to be dangerous once the dog is inside a crate or kennel. This can delay or prevent rescue and may hinder their care or cause rescue/shelter personnel to only handle the dog on the end of a catch pole. This can be very traumatic for the dog. The owner might not know that sweet Fido becomes “Cujo” in this type of situation until they try to simulate it.

For this part of the requirement, the evaluator (or person acting on the evaluator’s behalf for video eval) will need to use caution and should be very good at reading a dog’s body language. The owner should not be in the area and certainly not visible to the dog. If the dog shows ANY signs of aggression, do not proceed. If the dog is showing avoidance, use your best judgment on whether to proceed and possibly push the dog to the point of feeling trapped and defensive. Err on the side of caution with any dog not coming directly and calmly (or happily) to the stranger or evaluator. The owner will need to arrange for further training of this situation to help the dog get comfortable if it is not comfortable with this portion of the test.

If using a crate or kennel, allow the dog to settle inside for at least 10 minutes. This portion can be done after the dog has completed the settle in a crate portion out of view and earshot of the owner. If using the dog’s house, the owner should drive away (or leave however they normally do) so that the dog hears and/or sees them leave and leave the dog alone for at least 10 minutes before the exercise begins. No one should be in the house with the dog. The lodging being used for camp CAN be used as long as the dog & owner have been housed there for at least 3 days prior to the testing. If using the car the dog normally travels in, it will need to be safe to leave the dog in the car for at least 10 minutes prior to the evaluator/stranger trying to remove the dog. This gives the dog time to settle in and feel the space is theirs and know that the owner is gone.

The dog should be left in a way that it is normally left in that situation. So if the owner only leaves the dog in the car, in a seatbelt, with the remote start running and radio on, then that is how the dog should be in the car for this test. If the person normally leaves the dog loose in the house/lodging, then the dog should be left loose in the house/lodging for this test.

For video, explain where the owner went and validate that the owner has been out of sight and not heard by the dog for at least 10 minutes. The videographer should be behind and slightly to the side of the person acting as evaluator so that both the evaluator and the dog can be seen at all times during the approach and interaction, but the focus should be on the dog. So if the dog moves, stay focused on the dog until the position behind the evaluator can be reestablished.

Will go to a stranger that calls them (not using dog’s name) or will allow self to be easily caught when loose without owner in sight (food can be used) (Simulates a rescue when dog is loose).

For this portion of the test, the owner needs to trust the dog not to take off. It should be done in a safe, outdoor location with very little or no traffic, but should not be in a fenced location unless the area is large enough for the fences not to be visible to the dog from the location of the test. This portion can be done similarly to the travel safety badge in which the dog is left in the car, owner goes to a place that is out of sight and not accessible to the dog at least 20’ away (such as inside a building or crouching down out of sight in another closed car). The dog is let loose by a helper (can be the person doing the video) and is then called by the evaluator or person acting as the evaluator who is at least 15’ away from the car. The person calling the dog can use a treat or act like they have a treat to entice the dog. The dog should be willing to leave the area of the car or crate and approach the person calling. If the dog goes to look for the owner, the person calling should try to call/entice the dog at least 15’ away from the owner’s location (or where the dog thinks the owner is located). The person will need to be able to capture the dog and then attach a leash or walk it by the collar at least 10 steps away from where the owner went and away from its vehicle or crate without the dog resisting or getting overly stressed. Obviously if the dog is getting too stressed or takes off, end the exercise immediately and have the owner come out of hiding to call the dog. A dog that gets overly stressed or shows any aggression would not pass this portion. Further practice/training would be needed.

To train this- Start with the stranger holding the dog’s leash while the owner ducks out of sight behind a corner. The helper then tries to get the dog to look at the helper. The reward for eye contact being that the helper takes the dog to the owner. Gradually increase the distance from the owner’s hiding spot, have the dog on a long line so it has to come farther away from the owner toward the helper and work with multiple people till the dog generalizes that the way to get to the owner is to come to the stranger. If the dog will take treats, he stranger can give the dog treats too. This can greatly speed the capture of the dog if it were to escape from home and become missing.

Video needs to show the location where the owner is hiding (shown from the place where the dog is located so the distance can be judged and so it’s obvious the owner is not in sight), show the dog being let loose and without pause, follow the dog till he/she is captured and walked away.

Can be handled all over by a stranger without owner present

This can be combined with other parts of the test in which the stranger is handling the dog without the owner present, but doesn’t have to be. The dog should tolerate the exam without being muzzled. The stranger should be able to touch and examine the dog’s feet, ears and tail (where injuries often occur) and inner thighs (where tattoos are often located). The Evaluator can also observe any unique identifying characteristics shared by the owner in the owner’s portion of the badge test. The stranger should be aware of dog body language and stop the exam if the dog is showing signs that it might be overly stressed or get aggressive. The stranger can use common cues such as sit, down, roll over, etc. and soothing words such as easy, relax, it’s ok, etc. but may not use the dog’s name, usual cues or foreign language cues. The person should act as though they have just found this dog and don’t know the dog.

Accepts being muzzled by a stranger without owner present using a standard dog muzzle

This can be the nylon type or basket type or other muzzle that would prevent the dog from being able to bite. The dog should accept the muzzle being put on without fuss or too much avoidance and should be able to move/walk on leash or when held by the collar for at least 10 steps with the muzzle on. This test can/should be combined with the next portion.

Accepts being lifted/carried (big dogs need to accept a two person lift) without owner present

This can/should be done with the muzzle on the dog. The person/people lifting the dog should be able to walk a few steps carrying the dog. If needed, the video camera can be put on a tripod so the videographer can help with the lifting. The dog should not panic or be overly stressed or try to bite.

Will willingly go into a crate that is on the ground (For small dogs- will allow self to be lifted into a crate stacked on other crates or other raised surface)

This should be done by a stranger without the muzzle on the dog. Owner is not present. Preferred that the crate not be the dog’s own crate, but if that’s all that is available it is ok to use the dog’s crate with the bedding removed. This portion of the test is to simulate the dog in a disaster kennel situation in which all dogs are kept in crates and they are only taken out during crate cleaning and then need to go right back in.

In most temporary, disaster shelter situations, metal wire crates are used that have slide out metal pans and newspaper laid flat on the tray to soak up liquids. If the dog cannot exit/enter the crate willingly, the dog doesn’t get removed from the crate. The tray is slid out from under the dog, the tray is cleaned, paper replaced and the tray is slid back in under the dog. If a wire crate with removable pan is not available, the dog would be removed with and forced back in on a catch pole. So making sure a stranger can take the dog out and put them back in will help the dog get at least a little bit of movement each day and minimize stress.

Will remain calm in the crate for at least 10 minutes without owner present and not dig, chew or try to escape. Note: Strangers can observe the dog while it is crated

It is very disruptive and stressful to the entire disaster shelter (staff and dogs) if there is a dog that won’t be quiet. If space allows, these disruptive dogs may be isolated or put in a different room so that the rest of the shelter can relax. Depending on how far away the dog is, it can be easy to forget the separated dog is there, especially with a frequent rotation of volunteers. Dogs that spend their day trying to escape risk being lost again or injuring themselves. And outside the shelter situation, a dog that is not relaxed in a crate adds extra stress to himself if he needs to be kept at the vet for treatment. So it is a good idea, for several reasons, to teach your dog to relax in a crate. The DVD “Crate Games” has several ways to do this.

For this portion of the test, the dog is put in a crate (can be done by the stranger who takes the dog from the owner to start the testing portions that happen out of the owners sight). The owner should not be seen or heard by the dog while the dog is in the crate. The crate should be in a room (preferably one that is not well known to the dog) instead of in a car/van known to the dog. If the stranger remains in the room he/she should occupy himself/herself with other tasks in the room (reading, cleaning, etc.) and ignore the dog. The stranger may also leave the room, but should listen in on the dog for sounds of chewing, scratching, whining, pacing, etc.

Occasional pawing at the crate door or occasional whining is ok, but the dog should not be overly stressed. If the dog gets too stressed, the testing should be stopped.

For video submissions, set up the camera on a tripod so that it can see into the crate and video the entire 10 minutes, but if the dog lays down calmly or takes a nap, most of that portion of the video can be cut from what is submitted for evaluation. Keep the part showing the dog initially laying down and keep the part where the dog sees the evaluator return (if the evaluator has left the room) or when the dog is let out. If the dog is not completely comfortable, include the full 10 minutes for evaluation.

Can swim without panic or too much splashing without wearing a float vest

This can be shown on the video or the dog can be in the DSA database as having earned one or more of the DSA water badges (owner certifies that the dog wasn’t wearing a life vest to earn those badges). If video of the swimming is not shown, include a note with or on the video noting that this portion is covered by the earning of the water badge(s).

Has an emergency “wait” or “stay” cue that will stop their forward motion suddenly. Need to demonstrate dog will respond with handler behind the dog AND in front of the dog from more than 10 feet. When cued from a front recall, the dog should respond to the hand cue only.

A dog that responds to the universal “stop” signal (open palm facing the dog) may have its life saved. If the dog is running toward the rescuer, but has to cross a road or other hazard, the rescuer can signal the dog to wait. If the dog is floating on debris, it can be told to wait for the rescue boat to get close instead of jumping into the chemical and debris filled water. It can also help calm a dog that could be frantic about rescue approaching, giving the dog info that rescue is coming, just be patient. And a dog that is running away in a panic may stop or slow down and come out of blind panic mode if the stranger yells “wait!”

For evaluation, have the dog run after a toy, do a send out, respond to another person calling or otherwise get the dog to run away from the owner. The owner should be able to cue the dog to stop its run away. The dog may turn to face the owner, but should stop in place on the cue (not moving farther away and not coming toward the handler more than a few steps). The dog can stop in any position. A sit or down cue can be used instead of wait or stay. The dog should not be stopping because of anything except the cue (so sending the dog to a target of any kind and saying the cue when the dog reaches the target won’t count) but stopping the dog on its way to the target would (dog should stop roughly in the middle between the handler and the target/object/person/whatever). This is something the handler should be able to use with the dog when walking on a trail with the dog off leash to stop the dog in place.

For video, have the camera behind and slightly to the side of the handler so both the handler and the dog are visible. Or have the videographer behind the target (or as the target) the dog is being sent to so the dog and handler are both visible (with the dog being closer).

For the stop on recall, it should look similar to the advanced obedience “drop on recall” exercise except that the cue should be an open palm shoved toward the dog instead of the typical obedience “down” cue. The person can step forward with one foot and/or bend at the waist when giving the cue. Dog starts at least 20’ from the handler, handler calls dog and then uses the “stop” hand signal to get the dog to stop at least 10’ away from the handler. Dog can stop in any position (sit, down, stand). Have the videographer positioned behind the dog’s starting position so that both the dog and full handler are visible.

Only gentle methods have been used to train the dog the required behaviors.

Clicker training/operant conditioning, etc. and other no force methods.

Owner understands the basics of disaster planning and preparation, why it is important and what often happens in various emergency situations. (Attend the O&S session)

For in-person testing, the handler needs to attend the lecture portion given by the evaluator. For video testing, the handler needs to submit the written test.

Needs to be able to identify their dog from others that look similar (Knows some describable, physical, identifying characteristics) when dog is not present/visible to owner.

The owner needs to know unique features of their dog that they can articulate to the evaluator that would help someone tell their dog from others that look similar, especially if the dog is a certain breed in which many others of that breed look almost identical (lacking unique coat patterns). The dog should not be visible to the owner when they are describing the dog’s unique physical traits, marks, scars, etc. and the evaluator should be able to find/see these characteristics on the dog without the owner’s help. It should be things a stranger could verify on the dog without the owner present. So if the identifying characteristic is on the dog’s gums, the stranger should be able to check the dog’s mouth without the owner present. It’s helpful if this portion is covered prior to the exam being done in the previous section.

For video, the owner should verbalize this portion on the video (dog not present), and then the evaluator can show on the video how the items described are visible on the dog and that the dog will accept them being checked/seen without the owner present.

It is strongly recommended that these identifying characteristics are captured in photos by the owner and that these photos are included in the emergency kit. But these photos may not be used when the owner is completing this portion of the test. They need to be able to verbally describe the characteristics well enough that someone else can find them.

Has to have an evacuation kit and a 5 day survival kit for themselves and their animals including at least the items that are specified. Photo of these kits can be used at camp for the badge

As stated, the person can take photos of their kit (showing the kit as it is stored in the home as well as showing all its contents laid out). A listing of the items and any pertinent expiration dates should also be provided. For video eval, either the photos/list can be included with the paperwork (which is preferred) or the person can take video of the kit location in their home and as they remove each item from the kit saying what each thing is.

Has to have their pet’s vaccination records and photos along with a signed letter specifying the person has permission to take the pet in case of emergency that is sent to a relative or friend that is at least 100 miles away. This needs to be a person that would be willing and able to search for the pet if it was lost and you were unable to look for your own pet.

The Evaluator should review this packet (owner keeps the original and a copy gets sent to the friend/relative). The Evaluator should also contact the friend/relative to be sure they have the packet and letter and understand their responsibilities and that they know the dog or could ID the dog. For video submissions, a copy of the packet and contact info of the person holding the copy needs to be provided.

Needs to understand what emergencies are possible in their area and have a plan and supplies for each. Written plans that can be periodically reviewed and shared with family/neighbors are preferred. Note: Most of the supplies are applicable to many different emergencies and disasters.

The owner should be able to tell the evaluator what emergencies are likely to happen in their home area and what they have done to prepare for those. This will be on the written test for the video submissions.

(optional) It is strongly recommended that you have a plan with a neighbor or friend that can evacuate your animals if you are at work or not home when an evacuation order is issued.

Often, emergencies like train derailments or chemical spills from an overturned tractor trailer or chemical plant explosion happen suddenly and may happen while the owner is at work or away from home. This means an area that is evacuated may be off limits for an extended period of time, preventing you from getting to your animals. Knowing that a neighbor that works different hours than you or that is retired will be willing to get your pets out if an evacuation is ordered will give you great piece of mind and may save your pet’s lives.

You should have the person visit your home and walk them through where your pets are likely to be located. Don’t have them try to bring anything you can purchase, like food or bedding. Just get the animal and any essentials and get out. They are not likely going to have much time to gather things.

Needs an out of town contact that other family members can call if you get separated from them

This is not really verified, other than getting the owner’s word that they have set-up a contact or way for family members to get in touch or to check in if they get separated during a disaster. This is important for families, but not really an issue for an individual that lives in the area alone. Though you might want to set up a plan like this if you and other friends are all living in the area alone without other family to check on you.

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