STALL AND STABLE



GROOMING – B

Instructor’s Guide

Part I –Basic Grooming

|Purpose |

|truly groom a horse |

|demonstrate routine, efficiency, handling (from tying up to completion) |

|Teaching Suggestions |

|Note that NZ2 95 and HN 36 use the term “strapping” to describe a full groom but the term “strapping” is more recently used to |

|refer to the massaging component of grooming (MH 200). A “full groom” is the more accurate term for a complete grooming. |

|Bring a complete grooming kept and have students put everything in order |

|Using a paper have students race to write down a complete grooming. Add a 5 second penalty for every procedure missed. |

|Where possible have each student bring a grooming kit to a barn and groom a horse. Ensure every student has all necessary |

|supplies. |

|Emphasize routine and efficiency ( watch for students who seem to be running back and forth to kit, handling the horse in an unsafe|

|manner or using tools inefficiently. Make suggestions where appropriate. |

NB: each reference has a slightly different order for grooming. The main thing is to do everything efficiently and the same way every time. (MH – 202; GTW – 48))

|Hoof Pick |use the point of the hoof pick working from heel to toe to remove all material lodged in the foot |

| |tap the shoe to see if secure |

| |use hand to check for risen clenches (MH – 203) |

|Dandy Brush or Cactus Cloth|used all over the body and can be held in either hand (you may use a rubber or plastic curry as an |

| |alternative) |

| |start at poll on left-hand side and work over the whole body and legs |

| |do no brush too hard on sensitive parts but everywhere else use a circular or scrubbing motion to |

| |loosen stubborn dirt |

| |if the horse is clipped, only use where longer hair remains |

| |the cactus cloth can be used on a stabled horse as an alternative to the dandy brush |

|Body Brush and Curry Comb |the body brush is the main grooming brush and curry comb keeps it clean |

| |Mane |

| |throw mane to other side and brush crest |

| |replace mane |

| |beginning at the poll gently use your fingers to separate hairs |

| |if you brush, start at the tips of the hair and work to the roots |

| |Body |

| |begin at the poll on the left |

| |work over the whole body in the direction of the lay of the coat |

| |hold the body brush in the hand closest to the head and the curry in the other |

| |lean your weight on the brush as you stroke and use short circular strokes finishing each stroke in the|

| |direction of the lay of the coat |

| |after 4 or 5 strokes run the body brush over the curry to clean it |

| |repeat on the right side |

| |Tail |

| |separate a few strands at a time with your fingers and start to brush at the tip working up to the |

| |roots. Be careful not to damage hairs. |

| |Head |

| |untie the horse, put the halter around the neck, use your free hand to steady the head and use the body|

| |brush carefully |

| |replace the halter and tie back up |

|Wisp or massage pad |wisping is massage that helps develop and harden muscles and brings shine to coat |

| |only wisp on the muscles of the neck, shoulders, quarters and thighs |

| |dampen the wisp slightly and massage by slapping the muscles in a regular rhythm in the direction of |

| |the lay of the coat |

|Sponges and water |sponging eyes, nose and dock cleans and refreshes the horse |

| |keep two sponges of different colors, one used only for the dock |

| |Head |

| |wring out the sponge so it is soft, clean and damp |

| |start with eyes moving away from the corners and around the eyelids |

| |wring out the sponge again |

| |wipe the muzzle including lips and inside and outside of nostrils (in that order) |

| |Dock |

| |use the other sponge to move behind and wipe the whole dock region including the skin on the under |

| |surface of the tail |

|Water brush |dip the bristle ends into bucket of water and shake off extra water |

| |Mane |

| |brush the hairs of the mane from the roots downwards so they are left slightly damp and in the required|

| |position |

| |Tail |

| |lay the hairs of tail on either side of dock in the same way as for mane |

| |apply tail bandage if desired |

| |Hoof |

| |clean the outside of the hooves |

|Hoof oil |if/when the hooves are dry apply a thin coating of hoof oil or dressing |

|Stable rubber |used to remove the last traces of dust |

| |give the horse a final polish in the direction of the lay of hair |

Part II – The Skin

|Purpose |

|Understand functions of skin |

|Teaching Suggestions |

|Review functions and terminology below |

|Functions of the skin |Mechanically protect the body |

|(KYH – 26) |Keep out toxic agents |

| |Prevent excess water loss |

| |Protection against irradiation |

| |Heat control |

| |Sensation (all sensations are subject to nerves which penetrate the skin) |

| |Secretion of sweat and sebum |

| |Formation of Vitamin D |

| |Camouflage (MH 421) |

|Sebum |oily wax like substance secreted by glands which are found all over the skin |

| |coats and protects the hair from drying out, over-wetting and other physical damage |

| |makes the coat shiny and sleek |

| |provides a form of insulation |

| |part of the protective mechanism of the skin |

|Irradiation |exposure to radiation |

Part III – Reasons for Grooming

|Purpose |

|Reasons for grooming |

|Teaching Suggestions |

|See how many of these students can come up with. |

|If the students can remember the two categories and the groupings beneath them they can list all of the reasons for grooming. |

Reasons (objectives) for grooming (HN – 30)

All reasons for grooming fall into two basic categories which can be further subdivided as follows:

|Health |General health |

| |removes waste products |

|HN 30 |stimulates the circulation of blood and lymph |

| |improves muscle tone |

| |prevent girth galls and saddle sores (NZ1 – 145) |

| |picking feet helps prevent thrush (GTW – 42) |

| |Condition of skin |

| |remove the sebum, dandruff and dirt that mix with sweat to make a scummy lather ( slows cooling and |

| |reduces insulation (GTW – 31) |

| |keep sweat pores in healthy condition (KYH 26) |

| |Prevent disease |

| |look for ticks and skin problems such as rainrot (GTW - 42) |

|Appearance |Overall appearance |

| |stimulates the production of sebum (skin oil) and distributes it evenly over the surface of the hairs (|

| |shine and tidy(GTW – 33)] |

| |Cleanliness (also related to health) |

| |removes loose hair and dirt |

|Notes |most effective when done right after exercise (skin warm and pores open) (GTW – 33) |

| |effective means of training for simple obedience and stable manners (GTW – 42) |

| |helps to establish trust and respect between horse and handler (GTW – 42) |

Part IV – Grooming for Different Conditions

|Purpose |

|Grooming for different conditions including pasture, stable and season |

|Teaching Suggestions |

|Review material below focusing on practical application for students. |

|Look for examples where students have done these various things and discuss the situation. |

Horse in stable

|General |the complete grooming procedures and purposes for grooming are all intended for a horse in stable |

| |there are several grooming procedures (covered in previous pony club levels) such as quartering, |

| |strapping and set fair which apply to stabled horses |

|Sick horse |keep to minimum for very sick horse |

| |spongeing eyes, nose and dock is refreshing for him |

|(NZ2 – 229) |pick out feet (twice daily when in stable) |

| |quarter him lightly with body brush or stable rubber taking care he does not get chilled |

| |hand massage or rub legs with a rough towel if the legs fill |

Horse at Pasture

|General Principles |In general, horses at pasture require less grooming as they use rolling and dust baths to keep |

| |themselves comfortable (GTW – 42). |

| |Use of the body brush is avoided as it will remove natural grease and scurf of coat that protects him |

| |from getting wet and cold. (USD – 173) |

| |It is normal for a horse at pasture to have more dust and grease in coat than a stabled horse (USC – |

| |160) |

|Daily |pick out feet and check shoes (MH – 210) |

| |curry and brush with dandy brush to make his coat smooth (USD – 173) |

| |use body brush or an old soft dandy brush to keep the mane and tail tidy (MH – 210) |

| |sponge out the eyes, nose, muzzle and dock (MH – 210) |

| |check for injuries, ticks and skin problems such as rainrot (GTW – 42) |

| |fly repellent if needed (USC – 160) |

|Riding/Special Occasions |cleaned before they are ridden (GTW – 42) |

| |brush down with dandy brush or rubber curry comb to remove mud and sweat marks (MH – 210) |

In winter/cold weather

|Trying to keep the horse |If the horse has been regularly groomed he will have less oil and insulation in his coat so may need |

|warm |more covering than other horses (NZ2 – 97) |

| |For stabled horse, in cold weather fold the rugs half-way back in order to quarter the forehand, and |

| |then fold them forward to complete the task. (MH – 199) |

| |Do not bathe a horse in cold weather when it may catch chill/cold (GTW – 77) |

| |Thick mane helps prevent the horse from losing body heat at the top of the head and neck and heavy tail|

| |protects the thin-skinned groin area (GTW – 100) |

| |Long hair under the chin and lower jaw insulates him (GTW – 120) |

| |Fuzzy ears ward of frostbite (GTW – 120) |

| |Coarse heavy hair around face ( insulation (GTW – 122) |

| |If the horse is worked in the winter and the coat contains excess sebum, dandruff and dirt; the sweat |

| |becomes dirty, works into a lather and reduces the insulation to the horse (GTW – 31) |

| |Consider the winter temperatures when determining if and how much you will trim or clip (GTW – 119) |

|Trying to help the horse |Long winter coat may need to be removed on horse working during winter to improve ability to cool (GTW |

|cool |– 142) |

Part V – Miscellaneous Grooming Notes

|Purpose |

|Discuss purpose of various mane treatments |

|Reasons and considerations when clipping |

|Teaching Suggestions |

|Review materials below. |

Mane Treatments (HN – 92)

|Pulling |thin an over-thick mane |

| |shorten a long mane |

| |permit mane to lie flat |

| |make a mane easier to plait (MH – 219) |

|Hogging |complete removal of the mane with clippers |

| |eliminate work involved in the care of the mane |

| |when horse grows ragged mane which spoils appearance |

| |cobs and polo ponies often have mane hogged (MH – 219) |

|Plaiting |show off neck and crest |

| |train mane to fall on the desired side of the neck |

| |for neatness |

Clipping

|Considerations for Clipping|horse |

| |work required |

| |climatic conditions |

|(NZ2 – 101) | |

|Reasons to Clip (HN – 89) |work a horse (keep condition) through winter months by avoiding heavy sweating/undue stress (MH – 210) |

| |removes hair ( stays cooler and dries quicker |

| |permit horse to work longer and faster without distress |

| |horse stays cooler ( work longer/faster/better |

| |maintain condition by avoiding heavy sweating (MH – 210) |

| |heavy sweating can quickly cause loss of condition (NZ2 – 101) |

| |easier to get clean and dry and therefore less liable to chills |

| |save labour in grooming |

| |prevent disease (MH – 210) |

| |rainrot, ticks etc. can all be detected and diminished with good coat care |

|Points to Note when |Ensure horse is dry and well groomed |

|Clipping |If possible clip by daylight ( Clipping box must be well lit. |

| |Allow horse to become accustomed to the sound of the clippers before actually using them |

| |Before starting, use soap or chalk to mark the legs and saddle patch |

| |Do not push of force clippers. The weight of the clipping head provides all the pressure needed. |

| |Clip against the coat. Take as much with one sweep as possible. |

| |Leave difficult bits to the last. |

| |It is useless to continue clipping if the horse breaks out (starts to sweat). |

| |Application of a twitch may have the effect of making horse sweat. Do not use one unless absolutely |

| |necessary. |

| |If clippers get hot stop clipping and switch them off. Continue when they are cool again. Hot clippers|

| |will make the horse restless. |

Part VI – The Well Turned out Horse

|Purpose |

|able to turn out a very well groomed horse (braided) |

|Teaching Suggestions |

|The following materials cover the basics of turning out a well groomed horse (Grooming to Win). |

|Conduct a grooming barn day so students can practice these techniques. |

|Details on these procedures will be tested in future levels. |

Bathing the Horse

|Notes |bathing is not a substitute for good daily grooming |

| |too frequent and the detergents can cause dry skin and a dull coat |

| |it is best to bathe a day or two before a show so the full shine of the coat returns by show time |

| |if it is cold use the hot towelling method. |

Standard Bath: use on days that are not too cold or draughty.

|Equipment needed |several buckets of warm water |

| |a large body sponge |

| |a rubber currycomb |

| |a sweat scraper |

| |towels and a cooler or walking cover |

| |suitable shampoo (a horse shampoo or other mild shampoo) |

|Method |wet the horse all over down to the skin (use hose or body sponge). If using a hose start at the hooves |

| |with a trickle of water and gradually work up legs and over body. Include mane and tail. |

| |make a bucket of soapy water and sponge over the horse working from the neck back and down. Use the |

| |curry comb on each part to work up a lather. Keep the soapy parts wet |

| |rinse as you work by running the hose or squeezing out a large spongeful of clean water above the part |

| |where you are scrubbing until the water runs clean. The hair and skin should feel squeaky clean and be |

| |free of soap before you move on. |

| |wash the face and head with as little soap as possible and as much water as the horse will tolerate. |

| |Don’t let water run into ears or eyes. |

| |wash the mane and tail and apply a crème rinse if you do not plan on braiding. |

| |scrape the wet coat starting from the neck and working down and backwards in the direction the hair |

| |grows |

| |use a sponge that is wrung out nearly dry to wipe water from head, legs, flank and areas that are hard |

| |to scrape |

| |gently wring out water from the tail |

| |apply a coat dressing (showsheen) if you wish. Makes hair shiny and helps repel stains. Should not be |

| |applied on the area beneath the saddle or on the horse’s back if you plan to ride Bareback Equitation. |

| |cover the horse with a cooler, walking cover or light sheet and keep him out of drafts until he is dry.|

| |Don’t leave him somewhere where he can roll. |

Hot Towelling Method

|Notes |a good way to remove stubborn dust and excess scurf from places like the head, the croup and the roots |

| |of the mane. |

| |can be done when the weather is too cold to wash a horse or expose him to chills. |

|Equipment needed |large, light-colored turkish towel or two |

| |a pail of very hot water |

| |rubber gloves to protect hands |

| |small amount of detergent or shampoo (less than a capful in a large bucket) |

|Method |wearing rubber gloves, dunk the towel in the bucket and wring it out until it is almost dry (it should |

| |be too hot to handle comfortably without rubber gloves) |

| |place one hand behind the towel and rub it quickly through the roots of the coat. The hair should not |

| |be wet but dirt and scurf will quickly blacken the towel. Shift your hand to a clean place and |

| |continue. |

| |when the towel begins to lose heat, dunk and wring it again. |

| |continue until the area is clean. |

| |if the coat is getting wetter than you would like, quickly rub it with a dry towel. |

Cleaning The Sheath

|Notes |Smegma (a waxy substance) is secreted from the skin of the sheath |

| |If smegma combines with dirt, bedding and skin debris it can form an accumulation of hard lumps and |

| |dead skin that accumulates inside the sheath and on the surface of the penis. |

| |If a lump of smegma (called a bean) forms at the opening of the urethra, urination may become painful |

| |and some horses refuse to “let down” to urinate and the area can become inflamed and even infected. |

| |The sheath should be cleaned every two to three months depending on the individual horse. |

|Equipment |mild soap such as Ivory |

| |small sponge |

| |two buckets of water or a warm water hose |

| |rubber gloves (disposable latex or vinyl gloves) if you like |

|Method |wet down the area gently with warm water |

| |lather your sponge well and gently enter the sheath |

| |use plenty of lather as a lubricant |

| |rinse frequently using the warm water |

| |if a horse is very dirty it is better to wash him gently and then apply a little Vaseline to the area |

| |and clean the sheath again in a few days |

| |check the blink pouch at the opening of the urethra for the bean and remove it |

Cleaning The Udder

|Notes |mares sometimes form a similar accumulation of smegma and dirt between the folds of the udder |

| |check occasionally when grooming but use caution as mares are often touchy about being handled around |

| |the udder and some may kick |

| |use same equipment and basic method as for sheath |

Making the Horse (or Markings) Whiter

|Method |apply a whitening shampoo (e.g., Quick Silver) full strength and leave it on the hair for 10-15 |

| |minutes. |

| |keep the coat/shampoo wet and occasionally scrub into lather to prevent from drying on to coat. |

| |when rinsed out it removes stains and yellowing and gives the coat a silvery cast. |

| |add a capful of laundry bluing to a large bucket of rinse water to give a grey horse a whiter coat, but|

| |don’t overdo it – too much can turn your horse green. |

Removing Stains

|Soapy Water |rub vigorously with a damp rub rag, turkish towel or cactus cloth. |

| |Dampen the cloth with hot, soapy water and rub the stain until the part of the towel becomes dirty. |

| |Shift to a clean portion and keep rubbing. |

|Stain Removing Shampoo |apply stain removing shampoo full strength five minutes then rinse thoroughly (USC 177) |

|Bon Ami Cleanser |make a paste of Bon Ami cleanser and water |

| |work the paste into the stained area |

| |after it dries the powder and stain can be brushed out of coat. |

Untangling the Mane and Tail

|Methods in order of |fingers, |

|preference |hairbrush or wire dog brush (the kind with bristles on rubber mounting), |

| |plastic comb. |

| |the worst is dragging a curry comb through it. |

| | |

| |metal combs damage more hairs than plastic combs and should only be used for pulling |

|Method |start at the edge of the mane or tail holding the hair loosely in one hand |

| |with the other hand, separate a few hairs and carefully work them free from the rest of the hair for |

| |their full length |

| |continue working through the mane or tail until all the hairs are untangled |

| |part the hair at the roots and clean the skin with either a soft short bristled body brush or a damp |

| |sponge. Continue parting along the dock or mane until all the skin is clean. |

Shampooing the Tail and Mane

|Notes |only needs to be done when the hair becomes soiled or stained or the roots of the hair and the skin |

| |become excessively greasy or full of dandruff |

| |use any mild shampoo, Head and shoulders or other dandruff shampoo if the skin is very flaky |

| |cream rinse or hair coat will help soften the hair and make keep tangles out but shouldn’t be used |

| |within a day or so of braiding |

| |cleaning the mane can be done in the same manner as described below for the tail but should be avoided |

| |in cold weather as it will make the neck cold. |

|Equipment |warm water hose or two large buckets of warm water |

| |large body sponge |

| |shampoo |

| |crème rinse or silicone coat dressing |

| |towel |

|Method |wet down the tail including the dock with hose or sponge. If the horse is well mannered, gently lift |

| |the skirt of the tail into the bucket and dunk the skirt to wet it |

| |apply shampoo to the skirt and rub it well into the whole tail working up a lather. Use the sponge to |

| |wash the skin of the dock |

| |rinse out the sponge and use the warm water hose or the sponge to rinse the tail from the top down |

| |making sure the hairs are rinsed until they squeak. |

| |wring the hairs of the skirt out gently and blot them with a towel. Apply a crème rinse or hot oil |

| |treatment (follow package directions) or a silicone coat dressing may be sprayed on the damp tail |

| |hairs. |

Pulling the Mane

|Reasons for pulling the |thin an over-thick mane |

|mane |shorten a long mane |

| |permit mane to lie flat |

|(MH 219) |make a mane easier to plait |

|How to pull a mane |groom mane to remove all tangles |

| |begin where the mane is longest |

|(GTW 115) |make the mane even first, then work along the whole length shortening only ½” or so at a time along its|

| |entire length |

| | |

| |grasp a few of the longest hairs from the underside of the mane between the fingers and thumb of one |

| |hand |

| |with the fingers of the other hand or a small metal pulling comb, push the other hairs up toward the |

| |neck – like teasing hair. You should be left with about 6 hairs which fan out in a section about an |

| |inch wide |

| |wind the long hairs around your fingers or the pulling comb |

| |pull the hairs out with a swift jerk straight up |

| |comb through the teased hair before picking up a new portion of hair |

|How short to pull |if horse is always braided, pull to the best length to braid (as short as 3.5 to 4 inches) no matter |

| |how it looks unbraided (GTW 117) |

| |if horse is left unbraided at times and must look tidy, chose a length that will lie flat on one side |

| |and flatters the horse’s neck (GTW 117) |

|Mane Notes |never pull the top hairs (they will poke up above plaits (MH 219) |

| |pull after exercise or on warm day when the pores are open (HN 93) |

| |cutting the mane shortens it without thinning ( unnatural, squared off cut that makes neat braiding |

| |almost impossible.(GTW 115) |

| |mane should be short and as even as necessary but should look like it grew that way (GTW 115) |

| |wearing thin gloves may help (GTW 115) |

| |in areas where the mane is very long but too thin to pull, use a “thinner” (wire rapped razor tool) to |

| |shorten it. Practice using it in an area you will pull later (GTW 117) |

| |pull over several day rather than one long session |

Pulling the tail

|Reasons for pulling the |improve appearance |

|tail |show off quarters |

|(HN 94) |easier to clean (NZ2 99) |

|How to pull the tail |groom the tail to remove all tangles |

| |begin pulling at the dock region by thinning the hair from underneath and continue halfway down the |

|(MH 218) |dock ( finish here with a thin tail. Continue to next step for a thick tail (NZ2 209) |

| |work sideways removing the hair evenly on both sides of the tail |

| |take less hair from the central surface so that it appears smooth and even |

|Tail Notes |tail provides protection to pastured pony against wind and rain (MH 218) |

| |a pulled tail is too short to be plaited (NZ2 99) |

| |covers should come well down over root of tail on a horse with pulled tail in cold regions (NZ2 99) |

| |bandaging the tail after each session helps to shape it (NZ2 210) |

Shaping the Tail Skirt

|Banging |improve appearance |

|(cutting the bottom |show off quarters |

|straight) |easier to clean (NZ2 99) |

| | |

| |have a helper hold the tail away from the body in the position it is carried in when the horse is |

| |moving |

| |cut or trim the bottom of the tail square (even with the ground) at a level not higher than the bottom |

| |of the fetlock. |

|Natural |leave the bottom of the tail with a natural shape |

Shaping the Upper Tail (Dock area)

|Pulling Method |watch the horse move from the side and determine the turnover point (the point where the natural line |

| |of the tail turns downward – when shaped the hair from the top and sides of the dock fall naturally |

| |downwards). This is anywhere from 4.5 to 6 inches depending on the size of the horse and his natural |

| |tail carriage, |

| |work from the top of the dock down the edge pulling the hair very short (but not bald) for a ¼ inch |

| |strip but taper the strip off at the point of turnover. Do this on both sides. |

| |start back at the top and pull another ¼ inch strip next to the first blending the strip into the first|

| |one. |

| |continue until the hair at the sides of the dock is shortened but not completely stripped bare and stop|

| |to hold up the tail and check your work frequently. |

| |it should not extend up onto the top of the tail and it should not be obvious when looking at the tail |

| |from the side. It is better to leave the hair a little long than look bald. |

|Clipping Method |use #15 or #30 blades that are very sharp |

| |start at the top edges of the dock running the blades downward with the hairs pressing lightly and |

| |evenly to thin and shorten for 5-6 inches (not beyond turnover point) |

| |taper the trimmed area smoothly under the hair just above the turnover point. |

| |trim the sides until they are even with the width of the tailbone but do not use the clippers on the |

| |upper side of the dock. |

GROOMING FOR A SHOW

A decision to braid depends on several factors including what show events you are participating in and your horse’s conformation. Below is a summary:

Grooming according to breed/sport

|HUNTERS |Mane |

| |it is not mandatory to braid but it is customary to braid at least the mane including the forelock. |

|GTW |whether braided or not the mane should be pulled to about 3.5 to4 inches (shorter makes nicer braids, |

| |longer looks better unbraided) |

| |if unbraided the mane should appear natural (achieved through pulling) |

| |the mane is always braided on the right side usually with standard type braids and an unbraided mane |

| |should be trained to lie on the right side |

| |the forelock should be short and thin enough to make a tidy braid |

| |the braids should begin as close to the poll as possible and continue in unbroken line as far back as |

| |possible to make the neck look long with well set back withers |

| |if the mane is left unbraided at the withers it gives the impression of high withers and a straight |

| |shoulder |

| |hunter braids are small (usually around 30 rarely less than 20 – ½ to 1 inch wide for each braid) but |

| |use fewer on a horse with a very long or heavy neck |

| |the bridle path should be only long enough to go under the crown piece of the bridle – about 1 inch |

| |(not extending beyond it). Too long and the bride path will make the neck look short. |

| |Tail |

| |the tail may be left unbraided, but if the tail is braided the mane must be also. |

| |the tail is usually left as long as it will grow or may be banged off (cut square at the bottom of the |

| |skirt) at the height of the pasterns. |

| |pulled tails as for dressage horses is permissible but rarely seen. |

|DRESSAGE |Mane |

| |ribbons, bangles or any other decoration is prohibited – only white tape may be used to accent the |

|this is the most formal |braids |

|turnout |the mane is pulled to uniform length of 3.5 to 5 inches and is usually braided (hunter braids, |

| |knob-style or sewn in button braids) |

| |braids are bigger than for the hunter (20 to 25) |

| |the forelock may be left unbraided even when the mane is braided (more flattering for horse with a big |

| |head or Roman nose) |

| |white tape may be wrapped around the braids either around each braid on the side, over the yarn |

| |fastening or around the “knob” so it is visible above the neck from both sides |

| |tape should be no more than ¼” wide and only white. If the forelock is braided it should also be taped.|

| |Tail |

| |the tail may be braided but it is generally not because it may cause the horse to carry his tail |

| |stiffly (resulting in lost points) |

| |instead the hairs on the sides of the upper dock may be pulled or trimmed to slim down the line of the |

| |dock – this isn’t mandatory |

| |the tail skirt may be left in natural point or banged (always raise the tail to the level it is carried|

| |at before banging at the bottom of the fetlock) |

|SHOW JUMPERS |Mane |

| |standards are similar to that of dressage horses. |

| |often braided as hunters (small untaped braids) but the forelock may be braided or unbraided. |

| |unbraided manes may range in length from 3/5 to 7 inches but most are shorter that 5 inches. |

| |Tail |

| |tails may be braided |

| |if the tail is never braided it may be pulled like a dressage horse |

|EVENTERS |turn out exactly as for dressage horse for the dressage phase |

| |generally left unbraided for cross-country phase (allow mane to grab on to) |

| |if there is time the mane is braided for stadium jumping but white tape isn’t used and tail is rarely |

| |braided |

Plaiting The Mane

|Purpose of plaiting the |show off neck and crest |

|mane |train mane to fall on the desired side of the neck |

|(HN 92) |for neatness |

|Notes about plaiting mane |always have an uneven number of plaits along the neck, plus the forelock (making it even when you |

|and tail |include forelock) (MH 219) |

| |acceptable to have a plaited mane and a pulled tail (NZ2 101) |

| |if the tail is plaited, the mane must be plaited (NZ2 101, GTW 210) |

| |never leave mane plaited any longer than necessary |

| |elastic bands can be used instead of string but ten to come out easier and be less tidy (NZ2 101) |

| |more small braids make a neck look longer (NZ2 101) |

| |mane braids should lie flat against the neck and be even (GTW 202) |

| |there are several different ways to braid, below are the most common |

|Materials |comb |

| |sponge (to wet hairs) |

| |bucket of water |

| |braid puller or latch hook to pull yarn ends through |

| |clip to keep unbraided hair out of the way |

| |scissors (GTW 198) |

| |seam ripper for taking braids out |

| |stool to stand on |

|Procedure for plaiting mane|Cut yarn to proper lengths by winding it around your hand and elbow |[pic] |

|(flat braids) |twenty times. | |

| |Slip the yarn off your elbow and cut it at the top and bottom (just one | |

|(GTW 199) |end if you want very long yarn) | |

| |You will need about 35 pieces 12-16 inches long | |

| |Wet the mane down until damp |[pic] |

| | | |

| | | |

| |Part a section ½” to 1” wide (depending on how large you will make the |[pic] |

| |braids) | |

| |Use a beauty parlor clip to keep unbraided mane out of the way | |

| |Divide the section into three equal strands and begin to braid. |[pic] |

| |Pull the hair across the neck and braid down from the side of the neck, |[pic] |

| |keeping the braiding very tight | |

| |When you have braided an inch or more, place the centre of a piece of |[pic] |

| |yarn behind the braid | |

| |Add each end to one of the braiding strands and continue braiding to the | |

| |end of the strand. | |

| |At the end of the braid, separate the tiny ends of the hairs, pinching | |

| |them tightly, from the yarn ends. | |

| |Pass the yarn ends around the braid and pull them through creating a |[pic] |

| |doubled slip know around the end of the braid. | |

| |Usually the entire mane is braided to this point before pulling any | |

| |braids up. | |

| |Push the end of the braid-puller or latch-hook down through the hair at |[pic][pic] |

| |the top of the braid keeping it close to the skin of the neck. | |

| |Double the yarn ends and push them through the loop of the braid puller | |

| |Pull the yarn through so the end of the braid is tucked tightly under, | |

| |against the crest | |

| |Separate the yarn ends above the crest and bring them down on each side |[pic] |

| |to cross beneath the braid. | |

| |Bring the ends to the front of the braid and press the braid with your | |

| |thumb to make it “turn the corner” at the crest. | |

| |Tie the yarn ends in a square know about ½ inch down on the side of the |[pic] |

| |braid (if you give the first knot of the square knot an extra twist it | |

| |will be more secure) | |

| |Cut off the ends of the yarn leaving about ¼ inch ends to prevent knot | |

| |from coming undone | |

|Tying off for Knob Style |separate the yarn ends above the crest and bring one down on each side of the braid to cross behind the|

|Braids |braid |

| |bring the ends to the front of the braid and press the braid upward with your thumb to make it turn the|

| |corner of the crest and create a knob that sticks up ¼ to ½ inch. |

| |cross the yarn ends below the knob keeping the yarn very tight (this cross keeps the knob from |

| |flattening out). |

| |cross the yarn ends underneath the braid again then tie them on top of the braid just above the knob. |

| |pull the ends very tight (to keep the knob from slipping) and tie with a square knot. |

| |cut off the ends of the yarn leaving ¼ inch. |

| |Note: the finished braid should lie flat against the neck and the knob should not extend too high above|

| |the crest. The knobs can be seen from both sides so be sure they are all even and the tying job is very|

| |tidy. |

|Sewn-in Button Braids |most time consuming but can be used to put up a long mane. |

| |You will tie of the braids using heavy braiding thread (button and carpet thread) instead of yarn (use |

| |the same method as for yarn) and you will need a large-eye metal or plastic needle. |

| | |

| |thread the ends of the thread through the braiding needle |

| |use the needle to stitch up through the braid at the crest of the neck |

| |stitch back down through the braided loop using large stitches (you no longer have a braided loop, just|

| |a doubled braid). The end of the thread should come out right at the end of the braided loop. |

| |turn the doubled braid under again and stitch up through the braid near the crest once again. |

| |bring the thread around to the braid to the right and stitch up through the braid again. Repeat to the |

| |left. |

| |unthread the needle and separate the thread ends. Cross them behind the braid and wrap them around the |

| |braid once of twice (crossing in the front and the back) tying them in a square knot about ¼” to ½” |

| |down the braid on the side then trim the ends short. |

| |the finished braid should be short, tight and rounded. |

| | |

|Methods Plaiting the |Short/thin forelock ( divide the whole forelock into three pieces, braid it to the end and pull it up |

|Forelock |as for a mane braid |

|(GTW 202) |Bushy/long forelock ( French braid as for tail (inside of outside) |

The Tail

|Purpose of plaiting the |as an alternative to pulling (HN 95) |

|tail |improves appearance/shows off quarters without depriving horse of protection of full tail (HN 95) |

| |a slim dock draw attention to horse that uses his back well over a jump or when moving on the flat (GTW|

| |210) |

Plaiting the Mane and Tail

|How to plait the tail |Inside French Braid |

| |Part one strand from the top left of the tail and one strand from the right |

|(GTW 214) |Bring the left strand over the right hand strand (crossing over at the center of the dock) |

| |Pick up another strand from the right (just below the first) and put it over the left hand strand. |

| |Place the top right hand strand (now poking out to the far left) over the second right hand strand (now|

| |in the middle), pinch the braid with the thumb and finger of your right hand |

| |Use your left hand to pick up a ¼ inch strand and bring it over into the center to join it to the |

| |strand you just braided. |

| |Bring the strand at the far right into the middle, pinch with left thumb and finger |

| |Use right hand to pickup a ¼ inch strand and bring it over into the center to join the strand you just |

| |braided. |

| |Continue down the tail keeping the braided strands pulled tight across the tail with added the strands |

| |coming into the braid horizontally |

| |At the end of the dock (or a few inches above), stop adding strands and continue braiding the central |

| |braid for 5 or 6 inches. |

| |Outside French Braid |

| |Pick up one strand from the left and one from the right |

| |Put the strand from the left under the strand from the right |

| |Pick up another strand from the right and put it under the left hand strand (now poking out to the |

| |right) |

| |Put the top right hand strand (now poking out to the left) under the second right hand strand (now in |

| |the middle). Pinch the braid with thumb and finger of right hand. |

| |Use left hand to part a section (1/4”) from the left of the tail and add it to the back of the piece |

| |you just braided (added underneath the braid) |

| |Put the strand at the far right underneath and into the middle and pinch braid with left hand. |

| |Use right hand to pickup a ¼ inch strand and bring it under into the center to join the strand you just|

| |braided (joins from underneath the braid) |

| |Continue down the tail keeping the braided strands pulled tight across the tail with added the strands |

| |coming into the braid horizontally |

| |At the end of the dock (or a few inches above), stop adding strands and continue braiding the central |

| |braid for 5 or 6 inches. |

|Tail braiding notes |Keep the upper hairs of the dock as long as possible if it is to be braided |

| |Give a hot oil treatment or other conditioners to condition and strengthen brittle hair (do it a week |

| |or two before braiding or it may be to slippery to braid). |

| |Tail must be clean before it is braided because the underside of the hairs will show ( shampoo a day or|

| |two before the show and then brushed or hand picked |

| |Hunter’s tail is braided for the full length of the dock ( use very small strands to pick up or it will|

| |be too fat by the bottom |

| |protect a braided tail with a tail bandage ( you can dampen the tail hairs or use a big of gel to get |

| |the side hairs to join the braid (GTW 219) |

|Finishing the tail braid |Two elastic bands |

| |double the braid end up with the unbraided hairs on top, pointing up toward the dock |

|(GTW 216) |fasten a rubber band around the braided loop at the end |

| |turn the braid under and push it up underneath the French braid until the loop that remains is about |

| |the size of a mane braid. The unbraided part of the tail will blend with the skirt of the tail. |

| |fasten a rubber band around the small loop at the bottom of the French braid. |

| |Pinwheel Method |

| |braid the central braiding hairs out to the ends. |

| |about 2 inches from the ends add in a 15 inch strand of braiding thread in a matching color |

| |tie off the ends with a double slip know and thread the ends through a large-eye needle |

| |roll the braid back up towards the dock, keeping it very tight |

| |at each complete turn, take a stitch through the center of the braid |

| |when the pinwheel is rolled up against the dock, take a stitch through the center of the pinwheel and |

| |through the French braid. |

| |tie it off to the central braid and trim off the ends of the thread |

Purpose and Definition of Trimming

|Purpose |Improve appearance (NZ2 98) |

| |Cosmetic changes: make coarse, chunky horse look finer, hide a blemish etc. (GTW 122) |

|Definition and General |The process of tidying up the horse, especially mane, tail and heels. (NZ2 98) |

|Notes |Includes pulling of the mane and tail (MH 215) |

| | |

| |Before you trim consider whether your horse needs his natural protection or not. Most of the hairs |

| |that are trimmed have provide some protection to the horse. (USC 178) |

| |Know what trimming style is appropriate for your breed/sport (USC 178) |

Trimming procedure

|Legs |Unless the whole leg is being clipped, it is not recommended to use the clippers on the back of the |

| |tendons or fetlocks ( spoils appearance of legs for some weeks (MH 215) and allows water to drain into |

| |heels and pasterns (NZ2 212) |

| |Pull the long hairs at the back of the leg or if they won’t pull easily, trim with comb and scissors |

| |(MH 215) |

| |The comb is moved upwards against the lay of the hair, lifting it so it can be cut. (MH 215) |

| |Use coarse leg blades or comb and scissors (NZ2 212) |

| |Using Clippers (GTW 133) |

| |Use the “trimming” technique with clippers pointing down and running them down the leg with the |

| |direction of the hair |

| |Press lightly and evenly to clip only the long outer hairs that stick out beyond the surface |

| |Go over the surface several times being careful to lift the blades gradually at the end of each stroke |

|Fetlocks |Tidy with comb and scissors to allow hair to act as downpipe to prevent water travelling into the heels|

| |and back of pasterns (NZ2 99) |

| |Comb the hair up and then cut with the scissors pointing down (NZ2 99) |

| |Using Clippers (GTW 133) |

| |Pick up the foot and run the clippers around and under the bulge of the fetlock joint |

| |The ergot may have to be snipped off close to the skin |

| |Trim downward and backward in the direction of the hair |

|Coronary Band |Reverse clippers and use “edging” technique (GTW 134) |

|Head |Do not clip the whiskers around the eyes (MH 215) |

|Muzzle |Some people trim the whiskers of the muzzle but they act as protection from flies and help horse’s |

| |sensitive feeling around this area (do not remove in horse living out) (MH 215) |

| |Using Clippers |

| |Use #10 blades to trim muzzle hairs off close to skin. (GTW 136) |

| |Check muzzle from all angles to look for missed hairs (GTW 136) |

| |Clip even closer by following up with #40 blades or finish with Flicker safety razor. (GTW 136) |

| |Be careful not to remove any of the fine muzzle hair or it will leave noticeable lines (GTW 136) |

|Ears |Never remove the hair from inside the ears ( it keep insects and other foreign bodies out (NZ2 211) |

| |(GTW describes how to do it though!) |

| |Close the edges of the ear together with one hand then clip towards the tip to remove surplus hair (NZ2|

| |211) or use a pair of blunt ended scissors (MH 215) |

| |Clip upward on the lower part of the ear and downward on the upper part of the ear (GTW 136) |

| |Leave a natural point of longer hair at the tip of the ears (GTW 136) |

| |Cleaning the Inside of the Ear (GTW 136) |

| |Place large piece of cotton in ear to deaden noise and keep hair from falling in. |

| |Use #40 blades to cut hair down to the skin. |

| |Brush the inside of the ear clean before removing the cotton. |

|Jaw |Trim the long hairs under the jaw with the scissors as for legs (MH 215) |

| |Using Clippers (GTW 135) |

| |Use #10 blades to trim hair from the sides and underside of the lower jaw |

| |Work in direction of hair growth with blades held in the “trimming” position. |

| |Use the “brushing” position over tendons and indentations of lower face and jaw. |

| |Turn blades to “clipping” position and clip closely along the bottom edge and between the bones of the |

| |lower jaw, clipping upward against the direction of hair growth. |

|Bridle Path |make it just wide enough for the bridle to fit on or according to your breed/sport |

|Chestnuts |should be removed close to the skin (use a sharp blade if necessary). They are easier to remove when |

| |softened after the horse has had a bath |

GROOMING – B

Homework Key

22 marks total

1. Give six reasons for grooming your horse (6)

• removes waste products (HN – 30)

• stimulates the circulation of blood and lymph (HN – 30)

• improves muscle tone (HN – 30)

• prevent girth galls and saddle sores (NZ1 – 145)

• picking feet helps prevent thrush (GTW – 42)

• remove the sebum, dandruff and dirt that mix with sweat to make a scummy lather ( slows cooling and reduces insulation (GTW – 31)

• unclog pores (NZ1 – 145)

• Prevent disease (HN 30)

• look for ticks and skin problems such as rainrot (GTW - 42)

• appearance: stimulates the production of sebum (skin oil) and distributes it evenly over the surface of the hairs ( shine and tidy(GTW – 33)]

• Cleanliness: removes loose hair and dirt (HN 30)

2. How would you groom a sick horse? (4)

(NZ2 – 229)

• keep to minimum for very sick horse

• spongeing eyes, nose and dock is refreshing for him

• pick out feet (twice daily when in stable)

• quarter him lightly with body brush or stable rubber taking care he does not get chilled

• hand massage or rub legs with a rough towel if the legs fill

3. Give four reasons you might choose to clip your horse (4)

1. work a horse (keep condition) through winter months by avoiding heavy sweating/undue stress (MH – 210)

• removes hair ( stays cooler and dries quicker

2. permit horse to work longer and faster without distress

• horse stays cooler ( work longer/faster/better

3. maintain condition by avoiding heavy sweating (MH – 210)

• heavy sweating can quickly cause loss of condition (NZ2 – 101)

4. easier to get clean and dry and therefore less liable to chills

5. save labour in grooming

6. prevent disease (MH – 210)

• rainrot, ticks etc. can all be detected and diminished with good coat care

4. What three things would you consider before clipping your horse and give one reason for each (6)

1. horse ( some horse’s cool better than others

2. work required ( dictates what kind of clip and if needed at all

3. climatic conditions ( dictates what kind of clip and if needed at all

5. What brush is not used when grooming horse on pasture and one reason why? (2)

Use of the body brush is avoided as it will remove natural grease and scurf of coat that protects him from getting wet and cold. (USD – 173)

GROOMING – B

Student’s Guide

Part I –Basic Grooming

Purpose

1. truly groom (strap) a horse

2. demonstrate routine, efficiency, handling (from tying up to completion)

Describe the use of each of the grooming tools below

Reference: Grooming to Win 48 and MH 202

|Hoof Pick | |

|Dandy Brush or Cactus Cloth| |

|Body Brush and Curry Comb | |

|Wisp or massage pad | |

|Sponges and water | |

|Water brush | |

|Hoof oil | |

|Stable rubber | |

Part II – The Skin

Purpose

1. Understand functions of skin

|Functions of the Skin (8 or| |

|9) | |

| | |

| | |

|KYH 26 | |

|MH 421 | |

Part III – Reasons for Grooming

Purpose

1. Reasons for grooming

|Reasons/objectives of | |

|grooming | |

| | |

|HN 30 | |

|NZ1 145 | |

|GTW 42 | |

| | |

|There are two main | |

|categories but question | |

|will likely ask for | |

|something like 6 reasons | |

|for grooming. These are the| |

|subpoints of the main | |

|categories | |

|Two other reasons grooming | |

|is worthwhile | |

| | |

|GTW 42 | |

Part IV – Grooming for Different Conditions

Purpose

1. Grooming for different conditions including pasture, stable and season

|How do you groom a horse | |

|kept in stable? | |

| | |

|references for basic | |

|grooming | |

|What brush is not used for | |

|a horse at pasture and why | |

| | |

|USD 173 | |

|How do you groom a horse |Daily(MH 210, USD 173, GTW 42, USC 160 |

|kept at pasture? | |

| |Riding/ Special Occasions (GTW 42, MH 210) |

|Four points for grooming | |

|sick horse | |

| | |

|(NZ2 229) | |

|Why may a regularly groomed| |

|horse feel colder in | |

|winter? | |

|NZ2 97 | |

|Why don’t you trim and | |

|heavily groom a horse that | |

|will be at pasture in | |

|winter? | |

| | |

|GTW 100, 120, 122 | |

|Why may clipping be | |

|necessary on a horse worked| |

|in winter? | |

| | |

|GTW 31, 142 | |

Part V – Miscellaneous Grooming Notes

Purpose

1. Discuss purpose of various mane treatments

2. Reasons and considerations when clipping

|Four reasons you would pull| |

|a mane | |

| | |

|HN 92 | |

|MH 219 | |

|What is “hogging” and two | |

|reasons you would hog a | |

|mane | |

| | |

|HN 93 | |

|Three reasons you would | |

|plait a mane | |

| | |

|HN 93 | |

|List six reasons for | |

|clipping a horse. | |

| | |

|HN 89 | |

|MH 210 | |

|3 things to consider before| |

|clipping | |

| | |

|NZ2 101 | |

|10 points to note when | |

|clipping | |

| | |

|HN 89) | |

GROOMING – B

Homework

1. Give six reasons for grooming your horse (6)

2. How would you groom a sick horse? (4)

3. Give four reasons you might chose to clip your horse (4)

4. What three things would you consider before clipping your horse and give one reason for each (6)

5. What brush is not used when grooming horse on pasture and one reason why? (2)

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