PROJECT FUNWAY



PROJECT FUNWAY, May 1, 2020Sewing directions by Linda Raasch for:FACE MASK* WITH NOSE AND CHIN DARTS with or without interfacingOptions: to sew the ties using fabric or bias tape, to use elastic, and/or make a pocket for a medical mask.*This mask is not a substitute for a surgical or N95 medical mask.After making a variety of face masks (a.k.a. face coverings), I have created a pattern and instructions that I believe can be successful for making 3 washable face mask options:FACE COVERING: A lightweight (more breathable) face mask that meets the current mandate to have a face covering while in public. It is two pieces of 100% cotton fabric.FACE COVERING + INTERFACING: By adding a layer of interfacing to one layer of fabric, one can make a more substantial face mask as the interfacing makes the mask more impermeable to moisture. There are many types of interfacing, so choosing a medium weight, non-woven sew-in (e.g. Pellon 930) or a fusible interfacing (e.g. Pellon 911FF fusible featherweight) is a bit more protective than just two layers of fabric. A MEDICAL MASK COVERING: A lightweight covering with the ability to insert a surgeon’s/or N95 mask between the two pieces of cotton. (We make an opening in the back facing layer to insert a mask). This was the style requested by nurses at the local hospital to help extend the life of their one allotted daily mask.SUPPLIES NEEDED:Sewing machine, scissors, thread, pins, the downloaded PATTERN 1 and PATTERN 2 if you are making the Medical Mask Covering option.Elastic - two 5 ?” to 7” pieces per mask (length cut will be dictated by size needed).Double fold bias tape - this is optional - you can use this instead of cutting fabric for ties.Interfacing - non-woven sew-in or fusible varieties, examples listed above100% cotton fabric (pre-washed). Two different colored fabrics are preferred so one can remember which side of the mask faces outward consistently for optimal protection. You can use the same fabric, just remember to use a Sharpie pen to mark which side is the back.FACE MASK COVERING YARDAGE:FABRIC: 100% cotton is generally 44” wide. (Ties are cut across the width of the fabric and you will need two strips of 2” X 44” to create 4 ties per mask).1 or 2 face coverings without ties, same fabric color both sides, you will need 1/3 yard or 12”.2 face coverings w/ties, same fabric both sides, you will need 2/3 yard or 20”. 2 face coverings w/ties, using contrasting fabric, you will need 2/3 yard of one color for ties and lining and 1/3 yard of another color for front of mask.5 face coverings w/ties, same fabric both sides, you will need 20” for ties; 24” for masks.5 face coverings without ties, same fabric both sides, you will need 24” for masks.5 face coverings w/ties, contrasting fabric, you will need 20” for ties, 12” for one color, 12” for second color.5 face coverings without ties, contrasting fabric, 12” one color, 12” second color of fabric.The Medical Mask Covering can be of one fabric color only as the back side of mask will be obvious.Directions for Face Covering and Interfaced Face CoveringPrint pattern making sure it is printed to scale. (Print two of Pattern 1, if you will be using fusible interfacing as I have drawn the cutting lines for the interfacing so you will need both patterns). Print both Pattern 1 and Pattern 2 if you will be making the Medical Mask Covering.Cut:Ties: If making the ties, cut two 2” X 44” strips of fabric. (Want thinner straps, try 1 ?”).Mask: fold the cut edge of fabric (this is called the width of fabric) up 6” with right sides of fabric facing each other. Place the long side of pattern A edge on fold. Pin and cut pattern. Make sure to clip a ?” mark at the dart base for both chin and nose darts. Mark with chalk or light pencil the end of the dart (on the folded edge) and draw the dart line to the clip mark.Repeat above with another color (if using) of fabric for lining. Mark the darts as well.*For interfaced option, cut one pattern A of interfacing. For fusible interfacing, please print out pattern one more time and use interfacing cutting lines (it is a ?” smaller on all sides except for the ON FOLD side). Iron fusible interfacing to wrong side of LINING. If sew-in interfacing (non-fusible) is used, then cut out using regular sized pattern and sew (baste) to wrong side of LINING using a ?” seam allowance. You will need to mark the dart line on the interfaced side since the interfacing covered your marks.Pin and sew the darts on both FRONT and LINING making sure to use a small backstitch. Trim dart bulk to a ?” and press seam allowance to one side.**If using elastic, to the right side of the FRONT, pin edge of one elastic piece a ?” down from upper right-hand corner and the other end of the same elastic a ?” above the lower right-hand corner of the FRONT piece. Sew in place using a ?” seam allowance (s/a). (HINT: The elastic should be resting on the fabric side creating a letter “C”. It should not be resting on the table side. The cut edges of the elastic are facing out, not toward the fabric. The elastic will pull the fabric a bit, but when we sew it later, pinning will straighten it out). Repeat on the left side with the other piece of elastic. You will have a backwards “C” resting on the fabric.**If using bias tape ties, stitch tape in the center to close it. You will need about 68” of tape. Cut into four 17” segments.**If making your own ties, you will need to iron your 2” strips lengthwise in half, wrong sides facing each other. Once this ironing crease is made, open fabric out again and fold each long side of tie to the center crease. Press in place. Fold one more time (like you are closing a book) and press. You will need to edge stitch the tie using an 1/8” seam to close. (Option: To make it prettier, edge stitch the other side at 1/8” as well). Cut into four 17” segments. To the right side of FRONT, pin the ties in place a ?” from each of the upper and lower corners. (Placement marks are on pattern). Ties will be resting on the fabric, not the table. (Their raw edges facing out). Stitch using a ?” s/a to secure.With right sides together, place LINING on top of FRONT, making sure the elastic or ties remain inside this “sandwich”. Pin in place. Mark a 3” “hole” that you will leave unstitched so you can turn mask right side out. (I suggest you start sewing one inch to the right of the lower dart and ending 1” after you turn the last corner; thus, leaving a 3” hole in which to turn the mask to the right side). Use a 3/8” s/a. Before turning right side out, trim seam allowances, clip dart area to release tension, and clip the corner bulk off.Turn right-side out pulling out the ties/elastic. Press neatly. (We will sew the hole opening when we do an edge stitch around mask after the pleats).***Pleats: you will create three ?” pleats on each side of mask approximately ?” apart. The pleats should flow upwards towards the top of the mask. The first pleat will land about ?” away from top edge. Pin in place. The second will land about ?” from the first, and the third the same way. The side should measure approximately 3” when pinned in place. Repeat for other side, pin in place. Begin stitching on the right side of mask (left when it is on the face) at 3/8” s/a. It is bulky here with the pleats so use your fingers to help keep things in place. Turn the corner at the bottom and use an 1/8” to ?” s/a to make sure we close the hole. Once you turn the corner to the other side, use a 3/8” again and then back to an 1/8” or ?” for the top. Once completed, sew another side seam on each side, by using the edge of your presser foot to follow your first seam. This makes it pretty and keeps the pleats in place.Finally, sew a little row of stitches at the end of your ties or cut them on the diagonal to prevent fraying. Add some flair – buttons, appliques, ribbon, ruffles, or a set of red lips – will make others know you are smiling underneath!MEDICAL MASK COVERINGCut:You will cut one of pattern pieces A, B, and C. You can use all the same fabric since it will be obvious which is the front and the back of this mask.If making the ties, cut two 2” X 44” strips of fabric (either color).Next, fold the cut edge of fabric (this is called the width of fabric) up 6” with right sides of fabric facing each other. Place the long side of pattern A edge on fold. Place pattern B and C on fold as well. Pin and cut pattern. Make sure to clip a ?” mark at the dart base for both chin and nose darts. Mark with chalk or light pencil the end of the dart (on the folded edge) and draw the dart line to the clip mark.Pin and sew the darts on the FRONT and LINING pieces making sure to use a small backstitch. Trim dart bulk to a ?” and press seam allowance to one side.To make the hem on pattern pieces B and C, fold under long straight edges ?” and then fold again ?”. Press. Stitch in place.If using elastic, bias tape ties, or making your own ties, refer to directions above marked **.To the right side of FRONT, pin the elastic or ties in place a ?” from each of the upper and lower corners. (Placement marks are on pattern). Ties will be resting on the fabric, not the table. (Their raw edges facing out). Stitch using a ?” s/a to secure.With right sides together, place B on top of A (FRONT). Pin in place matching dart seams and corners. Then, place C on top of A (FRONT) pin in place matching dart and corners. (NOTE: B and C will be overlapping creating the pocket needed to insert a medical grade mask). Make sure the elastic or ties remain inside! Stitch using a 3/8” s/a. Before turning right side out, trim seam allowances, clip dart area to release tension, and clip the corner bulk off.Turn right-side out pulling out the ties/elastic. Press neatly. Pleats: Time to add the pleats. Please see directions above marked *** to complete your Medical Mask Covering.Thanks for reading! Any questions? Happy to answer.Linda@Los Gatos, CA ................
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